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THIES- TECHNOLOGY
8April2016S.D.Kiruthika
1
LOADING THE MACHINE
 Calculate chamber loading.
 Loading the machine in warm water @ 50-
60°C- Chamber being under loaded is a false
impression- during cold rinsing fabric will
increase in volume.
 Fabric thoroughly wetted out by increasing the
bath temperature or if necessary adding a
wetting agent to the liquor, before the fabric is
introduced into the machine.
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
LOADING THE MACHINE
 DO NOT over fill the machine Especially when
processing 100% synthetic fabrics, on machines with
large circular kiers because fabric will not float from
centre to the front.
 Consider fabric type & width of the chamber while
loading.
 Load- not less than 50% of nominal load- or it will lead
to running problem (insufficient fabric to drive the rotor).
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
CAPACITY
 Size of the chamber
 No. of chamber
 Construction of fabric & width
 Fiber to fiber blend
 Weight per running meter
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
CALCULATING CHAMBER LOADING
 Rope cycle time & rope speed
 Maximum speed depends on machine
 Liquor transport system- 250 to 600 m/min
 Air transport system- 600 to 1000 m/min
 Speed depends on properties of the fabric, rope
length & rope circulation time for level dyeing.
 Fabric can run @ lower speed in non- critical dyeing
parts (Bleaching & After treatment)
 Weight per running meter = (rope weight/ Rope
length)
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
CALCULATING CHAMBER LOADING
 Rope length =
(rope weight /
weight per running
meter)
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
ROPE CYCLE TIME & CIRCULATION SPEED
Fabric Rope cycle
times in
minutes
Rope circulation speed m/min
Woven fabric Knit fabric
PES unfixed
PES heat set
1
1-1,5
400
400
250
200
PA unfixed
PA heat set
2-3
2
400
350
300
300
PAC 1-2 300 250
Co - reactive
Co - Vat
2-3
1-2
350
350
225-275
225-275
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
ROPE LENGTH, WINCH SPEED & ROPE
CIRCULATION TIME
 Winch speed= (Rope length/ cycle time)
 No. of nozzle passages= (Process time in min/ cycle time)
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
NOZZLE SIZE
 Based on weight per running meter
 Greige or raw fabric occupy ½ to ¾ of nozzle opening
 For pile / terry fabrics multiply g/m by 1.3
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
Nozzle diameter
in mm
Weight per running metre/yard
(g/metre) (ozs/yard)
50 80 - 150 2.8 - 5.3
60 100 - 200 3.5 - 7.0
70 150 - 300 5.3 - 10.6
85 150 - 500 5.3 - 17.6
100 400 - 700 14.1 - 24.7
120 600 - 900 21.1 - 31.8
VARIO NOZZLE
Vario nozzle- X
settings
Equivalent
Standard
nozzle size
1 100
2 90
3 80
4 70
5 60
6 50
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
Vario nozzle-
XL settings
Equivalent
Standard
nozzle size
1 120
2 110
3 100
4 85
5 75
6 65
LIQUOR RATIO
 Vary based on weight, construction & quality of fabric.
 Include moisture content in fabric before dyeing if fabric is
already wet.
 There should be sufficient free liquor to feed the pump but
not excessive.
 MLR= Liquor in m/c (l) = 1: …….
Weight (Kg)
 Addition during dyeing is also considered as it increases the
volume
 Short liquor- increases material to liquor contact
- decreases energy, water, dyes & chemicals
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
LONG LIQUOR RATIO M/CS
 Long horizontal dyeing m/c with long floating action
suitable for wool & polyester
 Do Not overload (jam) - there should be space for
fabric to float to the front of the m/c.
 Nozzle gap – Polyester (lighter fabric)- 4mm
- Cotton (Heavier fabric)- 5mm
 Over loading- needs excessive nozzle pressure &
sufficient water.
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
LIQUOR VOLUME
 “Soft stream V” m/c- in pump running condition-
water level should be 6 inch below the top of the
inner chamber dividing wall.
 “Soft stream IV” m/c- half fill main chamber.
 Trials should be carried out to fix optimum
conditions for individual fabric.
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
BEFORE PRE- PRODUCTION CHECK-
OIL, WAX & SPIN FINISH
 Leads to “unlevel dyeing”
 Problem in batch to batch reproducibility
 Higher % in 100% man made fibers- test using soxhlet
extraction
 Lubricants- melting point vary- require anionic/ non-ionic
scouring agent
 Spin finish contains detergent- combined with detergent in
treatment bath cause instant foaming- causes pump
cavitation, tangling & rope stoppage.
 In such case drain the machine- do not add anti foaming
agent.
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
 Check residual oil -if 5% present, then dyes added
is 5% excess- off shade, batch matching problems.
 Check water after 5 min
 Pale/ white milky -> Safe
 White/ pale creamy -> drop the bath
 Thick creamy -> drain & refill
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
AFTER PRE- PRODUCTION
 Wetting property- affinity for the dye
 Fabric- rinse & dry- put it in water in a glass; Floating- Poor
wetting property; Sink- good wetting property.
 Residual size- indicator
 Blue spot with red rim- Polyester
 Blue brown with orange rim- Polyacrylate
 Green- Polyvinyl acrylate
 pH- adjust as required
 H2O2 – test residual using H2O2 determination paper
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
SODIUM BICARBONATE
 NaHCO3 in water gives buffering effect- water- boil
10-15 min- cool it & check pH.
 pH raises- excessive NaHCO3
 Use acetic acid.
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
FABRIC MARKS & OXIDIZED OILS
 When roll stored vertically, so stored horizontally
 Oil used in knitting & weaving machine may oxidise
when stored
 Special scouring agents are available to remove
oxidised lubricants (Hand spotting if req.)
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
SPOTS OF KNITTING OIL REMOVAL
 Check type, amount & water solubility of knitting oil
by water or petroleum ether extraction.
 @50-60°C water- add detergent/ anti crease agent/
defoaming agent/ sequestering agent or complex
builder- add fabric (30 min; 60-80°C)- warm over
flow rinse- drop the bath- warm rinse- cold rinse.
 Demin can be done in acidic condition.
 Single stage H2O2 bleaching.
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
FABRIC FAULTS CREATED DURING DYEING
 Cockling:
 Heat sensitive/ thermo plastic fabrics- too low
speed during cooling cause Cockling.
 Eliminated by
 large dia nozzle
 Increasing Liquor ratio
 Decreasing fabric speed
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
CRACK, ROPE/ RUNNING MARKS
 Caused based on the material construction & poor
opening of fabric rope
 Avoided by pre- setting fabric
 Incorrect process procedure.
 Increase speed & decrease rate of rise/ cooling
 Decrease load & increase nozzle pressure
 Viscose blend- drain temperature should not be
high- Shock cooling of static material will cause
crack.
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
8April2016S.D.Kiruthika
22
 Occurs in Woven
 Pre- setting before dyeing
 Increase rope speed
 Increase liquor ratio
 Occurs in plush & uncut
pile fabric
 Increase liquor ratio
 Reduce nozzle pressure-
better liquid circulation-
Floating material transport
action.
Crows feet/ wrinkling Hammer finish
8April2016S.D.Kiruthika
23
 Increase fabric
speed
 Increase liquor ratio
 Decrease rate of
cooling
 Woven/ warp knitted fabric-
stopped during cooling stage.
 Check m/c not overloaded &
there is sufficient liquor in the
m/c
 Shock chilling may also cause
this effect
Crush marks Elephant Skin/ orange peel effect
FABRIC DISTORTION & INCREASE IN WIDTH
 Caused by too high material speed
 Decrease nozzle pressure
 Decrease winch speed
8April2016
24
S.D.Kiruthika
PILLING
 Too high mechanical stress on fabric surface
 Not necessary to run @ higher speed during
scouring & rinsing
 Use right nozzle gap- (100mm dia, 4mm gap)
 For cotton/ lycra knit- (100mm dia, 6mm gap)
 Syncronize nozzle pressure & winch speed
 Set rope turnover time & winch speed then reduce
nozzle pressure
8April2016
25
S.D.Kiruthika
 Flash of Rope tangle detector light b/n winch & nozzle
gives metallic click sound.
 m/c will use automated/ intelligent system which is self
correcting.
 (or) increase nozzle pressure until sound ceases & light no
longer flashes.
 Use suitable chemical lubricant, check product
compatibility & anti-foaming property.
 Turn fabric inside out- Sometimes it may give crease
marks.
8April2016
26
S.D.Kiruthika
RUNNING PROBLEMS
 Flat polyester filament fabrics:
 Winch does not transport smoothly with required speed
 Increase nozzle pressure
 Cotton fabrics:
 Winch transport rope without difficulty.
 Can reduce nozzle pressure provided material circulates @
even speed.
8April2016
27
S.D.Kiruthika
BALLOONING
 Caused by seam densely sewn, So cut 10-15 cm
Vertical slit.
 Use chain stitch & butt seam
 Small ballooning reduces running marks & gives
better folding.
 Compromise b/n degree of ballooning & rope
circulation is necessary.
8April2016
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S.D.Kiruthika
INTENSIVE FOAMING
 Cause cavitation- loss of nozzle pressure & floating
of fabrics.
 If foaming is less severe add de-foamer or anti
foaming agent.
 If foaming is severe drop the bath & restart the
process with suitable anti- foaming agent.
8April2016
29
S.D.Kiruthika
UN EVEN DYEING
 Shade variation in a rope:
 Due to rapid addition of dyes & chemicals, use
analogous dosing
 Use glaubers salt (fewer impurities), common salt (high
level of impurities) causes corrosion.
 Check rope circulation time is correct.
 Check correct rope speed for rope length.
 Check motor speed synchronized.
8April2016
30
S.D.Kiruthika
ROPE TO ROPE SHADE VARIATION
 Same rope length in each chamber
 Check nozzle gaps are not blocked
 Ensure cartridge filter sleeve sockets correctly fitted
 Right quality filter fabric
 Same winch speed
 Same setting if vario nozzle is used
8April2016
31
S.D.Kiruthika
BATCH TO BATCH SHADE VARIATIONS
 Check pH, hardness & sodium bicarbonate for water
daily.
 Dye affinity of fabric after scouring & bleaching should
be identical.
 Use same program, same liquor ratio & same cycle
time.
 Same rope speed based on batch size.
 Right chemical @ Right time & right temperature.
 Different combination of dyes require different dyeing
programs
8April2016
32
S.D.Kiruthika
DYE SPOTS
 Can be reduced by thorough mixing & dissolving of
dye stuffs @ right amount of water & @ right
temperature.
 Filter using fine stainless steel mesh when adding
dyes to the chemical addition tank.
8April2016
33
S.D.Kiruthika
MOTES AND PIN-HOLES
 Inadequate mote removal usually results when the pH is
too low during bleaching, peroxide decomposition
during bleaching is high, or the motes are not adequately
softened in scouring.
 Pin-holes are the result of localized fiber degradation by
hydrogen peroxide and is usually catalyzed by metal
ions such as iron and copper.
 There are many sources of these metal ions that should
be checked. They may be present in the water supply.
 A common source of iron is rust from water and steam
supply lines. In addition, metal ions are inherently
complexed with the fibers, and the amount will vary with
source of fibers and/or growing conditions.
8April2016
34
S.D.Kiruthika

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Thies technology

  • 2. LOADING THE MACHINE  Calculate chamber loading.  Loading the machine in warm water @ 50- 60°C- Chamber being under loaded is a false impression- during cold rinsing fabric will increase in volume.  Fabric thoroughly wetted out by increasing the bath temperature or if necessary adding a wetting agent to the liquor, before the fabric is introduced into the machine. 8April2016 2 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 3. LOADING THE MACHINE  DO NOT over fill the machine Especially when processing 100% synthetic fabrics, on machines with large circular kiers because fabric will not float from centre to the front.  Consider fabric type & width of the chamber while loading.  Load- not less than 50% of nominal load- or it will lead to running problem (insufficient fabric to drive the rotor). 8April2016 3 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 4. CAPACITY  Size of the chamber  No. of chamber  Construction of fabric & width  Fiber to fiber blend  Weight per running meter 8April2016 4 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 5. CALCULATING CHAMBER LOADING  Rope cycle time & rope speed  Maximum speed depends on machine  Liquor transport system- 250 to 600 m/min  Air transport system- 600 to 1000 m/min  Speed depends on properties of the fabric, rope length & rope circulation time for level dyeing.  Fabric can run @ lower speed in non- critical dyeing parts (Bleaching & After treatment)  Weight per running meter = (rope weight/ Rope length) 8April2016 5 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 6. CALCULATING CHAMBER LOADING  Rope length = (rope weight / weight per running meter) 8April2016 6 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 7. ROPE CYCLE TIME & CIRCULATION SPEED Fabric Rope cycle times in minutes Rope circulation speed m/min Woven fabric Knit fabric PES unfixed PES heat set 1 1-1,5 400 400 250 200 PA unfixed PA heat set 2-3 2 400 350 300 300 PAC 1-2 300 250 Co - reactive Co - Vat 2-3 1-2 350 350 225-275 225-275 8April2016 7 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 8. ROPE LENGTH, WINCH SPEED & ROPE CIRCULATION TIME  Winch speed= (Rope length/ cycle time)  No. of nozzle passages= (Process time in min/ cycle time) 8April2016 8 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 9. NOZZLE SIZE  Based on weight per running meter  Greige or raw fabric occupy ½ to ¾ of nozzle opening  For pile / terry fabrics multiply g/m by 1.3 8April2016 9 S.D.Kiruthika Nozzle diameter in mm Weight per running metre/yard (g/metre) (ozs/yard) 50 80 - 150 2.8 - 5.3 60 100 - 200 3.5 - 7.0 70 150 - 300 5.3 - 10.6 85 150 - 500 5.3 - 17.6 100 400 - 700 14.1 - 24.7 120 600 - 900 21.1 - 31.8
  • 10. VARIO NOZZLE Vario nozzle- X settings Equivalent Standard nozzle size 1 100 2 90 3 80 4 70 5 60 6 50 8April2016 10 S.D.Kiruthika Vario nozzle- XL settings Equivalent Standard nozzle size 1 120 2 110 3 100 4 85 5 75 6 65
  • 11. LIQUOR RATIO  Vary based on weight, construction & quality of fabric.  Include moisture content in fabric before dyeing if fabric is already wet.  There should be sufficient free liquor to feed the pump but not excessive.  MLR= Liquor in m/c (l) = 1: ……. Weight (Kg)  Addition during dyeing is also considered as it increases the volume  Short liquor- increases material to liquor contact - decreases energy, water, dyes & chemicals 8April2016 11 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 12. LONG LIQUOR RATIO M/CS  Long horizontal dyeing m/c with long floating action suitable for wool & polyester  Do Not overload (jam) - there should be space for fabric to float to the front of the m/c.  Nozzle gap – Polyester (lighter fabric)- 4mm - Cotton (Heavier fabric)- 5mm  Over loading- needs excessive nozzle pressure & sufficient water. 8April2016 12 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 13. LIQUOR VOLUME  “Soft stream V” m/c- in pump running condition- water level should be 6 inch below the top of the inner chamber dividing wall.  “Soft stream IV” m/c- half fill main chamber.  Trials should be carried out to fix optimum conditions for individual fabric. 8April2016 13 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 14. BEFORE PRE- PRODUCTION CHECK- OIL, WAX & SPIN FINISH  Leads to “unlevel dyeing”  Problem in batch to batch reproducibility  Higher % in 100% man made fibers- test using soxhlet extraction  Lubricants- melting point vary- require anionic/ non-ionic scouring agent  Spin finish contains detergent- combined with detergent in treatment bath cause instant foaming- causes pump cavitation, tangling & rope stoppage.  In such case drain the machine- do not add anti foaming agent. 8April2016 14 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 15.  Check residual oil -if 5% present, then dyes added is 5% excess- off shade, batch matching problems.  Check water after 5 min  Pale/ white milky -> Safe  White/ pale creamy -> drop the bath  Thick creamy -> drain & refill 8April2016 15 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 16. AFTER PRE- PRODUCTION  Wetting property- affinity for the dye  Fabric- rinse & dry- put it in water in a glass; Floating- Poor wetting property; Sink- good wetting property.  Residual size- indicator  Blue spot with red rim- Polyester  Blue brown with orange rim- Polyacrylate  Green- Polyvinyl acrylate  pH- adjust as required  H2O2 – test residual using H2O2 determination paper 8April2016 16 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 17. SODIUM BICARBONATE  NaHCO3 in water gives buffering effect- water- boil 10-15 min- cool it & check pH.  pH raises- excessive NaHCO3  Use acetic acid. 8April2016 17 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 18. FABRIC MARKS & OXIDIZED OILS  When roll stored vertically, so stored horizontally  Oil used in knitting & weaving machine may oxidise when stored  Special scouring agents are available to remove oxidised lubricants (Hand spotting if req.) 8April2016 18 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 19. SPOTS OF KNITTING OIL REMOVAL  Check type, amount & water solubility of knitting oil by water or petroleum ether extraction.  @50-60°C water- add detergent/ anti crease agent/ defoaming agent/ sequestering agent or complex builder- add fabric (30 min; 60-80°C)- warm over flow rinse- drop the bath- warm rinse- cold rinse.  Demin can be done in acidic condition.  Single stage H2O2 bleaching. 8April2016 19 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 20. FABRIC FAULTS CREATED DURING DYEING  Cockling:  Heat sensitive/ thermo plastic fabrics- too low speed during cooling cause Cockling.  Eliminated by  large dia nozzle  Increasing Liquor ratio  Decreasing fabric speed 8April2016 20 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 21. CRACK, ROPE/ RUNNING MARKS  Caused based on the material construction & poor opening of fabric rope  Avoided by pre- setting fabric  Incorrect process procedure.  Increase speed & decrease rate of rise/ cooling  Decrease load & increase nozzle pressure  Viscose blend- drain temperature should not be high- Shock cooling of static material will cause crack. 8April2016 21 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 22. 8April2016S.D.Kiruthika 22  Occurs in Woven  Pre- setting before dyeing  Increase rope speed  Increase liquor ratio  Occurs in plush & uncut pile fabric  Increase liquor ratio  Reduce nozzle pressure- better liquid circulation- Floating material transport action. Crows feet/ wrinkling Hammer finish
  • 23. 8April2016S.D.Kiruthika 23  Increase fabric speed  Increase liquor ratio  Decrease rate of cooling  Woven/ warp knitted fabric- stopped during cooling stage.  Check m/c not overloaded & there is sufficient liquor in the m/c  Shock chilling may also cause this effect Crush marks Elephant Skin/ orange peel effect
  • 24. FABRIC DISTORTION & INCREASE IN WIDTH  Caused by too high material speed  Decrease nozzle pressure  Decrease winch speed 8April2016 24 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 25. PILLING  Too high mechanical stress on fabric surface  Not necessary to run @ higher speed during scouring & rinsing  Use right nozzle gap- (100mm dia, 4mm gap)  For cotton/ lycra knit- (100mm dia, 6mm gap)  Syncronize nozzle pressure & winch speed  Set rope turnover time & winch speed then reduce nozzle pressure 8April2016 25 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 26.  Flash of Rope tangle detector light b/n winch & nozzle gives metallic click sound.  m/c will use automated/ intelligent system which is self correcting.  (or) increase nozzle pressure until sound ceases & light no longer flashes.  Use suitable chemical lubricant, check product compatibility & anti-foaming property.  Turn fabric inside out- Sometimes it may give crease marks. 8April2016 26 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 27. RUNNING PROBLEMS  Flat polyester filament fabrics:  Winch does not transport smoothly with required speed  Increase nozzle pressure  Cotton fabrics:  Winch transport rope without difficulty.  Can reduce nozzle pressure provided material circulates @ even speed. 8April2016 27 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 28. BALLOONING  Caused by seam densely sewn, So cut 10-15 cm Vertical slit.  Use chain stitch & butt seam  Small ballooning reduces running marks & gives better folding.  Compromise b/n degree of ballooning & rope circulation is necessary. 8April2016 28 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 29. INTENSIVE FOAMING  Cause cavitation- loss of nozzle pressure & floating of fabrics.  If foaming is less severe add de-foamer or anti foaming agent.  If foaming is severe drop the bath & restart the process with suitable anti- foaming agent. 8April2016 29 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 30. UN EVEN DYEING  Shade variation in a rope:  Due to rapid addition of dyes & chemicals, use analogous dosing  Use glaubers salt (fewer impurities), common salt (high level of impurities) causes corrosion.  Check rope circulation time is correct.  Check correct rope speed for rope length.  Check motor speed synchronized. 8April2016 30 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 31. ROPE TO ROPE SHADE VARIATION  Same rope length in each chamber  Check nozzle gaps are not blocked  Ensure cartridge filter sleeve sockets correctly fitted  Right quality filter fabric  Same winch speed  Same setting if vario nozzle is used 8April2016 31 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 32. BATCH TO BATCH SHADE VARIATIONS  Check pH, hardness & sodium bicarbonate for water daily.  Dye affinity of fabric after scouring & bleaching should be identical.  Use same program, same liquor ratio & same cycle time.  Same rope speed based on batch size.  Right chemical @ Right time & right temperature.  Different combination of dyes require different dyeing programs 8April2016 32 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 33. DYE SPOTS  Can be reduced by thorough mixing & dissolving of dye stuffs @ right amount of water & @ right temperature.  Filter using fine stainless steel mesh when adding dyes to the chemical addition tank. 8April2016 33 S.D.Kiruthika
  • 34. MOTES AND PIN-HOLES  Inadequate mote removal usually results when the pH is too low during bleaching, peroxide decomposition during bleaching is high, or the motes are not adequately softened in scouring.  Pin-holes are the result of localized fiber degradation by hydrogen peroxide and is usually catalyzed by metal ions such as iron and copper.  There are many sources of these metal ions that should be checked. They may be present in the water supply.  A common source of iron is rust from water and steam supply lines. In addition, metal ions are inherently complexed with the fibers, and the amount will vary with source of fibers and/or growing conditions. 8April2016 34 S.D.Kiruthika