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SEWING MACHINE
BINIYA ARAKKAL
PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE
1. Spoon pin – holds the thread.
2. Thread guides hold the thread in
position from spool to the needle.
3. Tension disc- thread passes through
two concave disc facing each other
which has a spring to increase and
decrease the pressure on the disc to
pass the thread through the discs.
4. Take up lever –at the outer side a small
lever having a hole through which thread
to be passed on. This lever helps to
loosen the thread while stitching with out
any loops.
5. Needle bar – is a steel rod which holds
the needle at one end with the help of
clamp.
6. Bobbin case this moves into positon to
catch the top thread and forms the stitch.
Placed inside the lower part of sewing
machine.
7. presser foot- is attached to the
presser bar and it hold the cloth
firmly in position when stitched.
8. Presser foot lifter- lever attached to
the presser bar for raising and
lowering the presser foot.
9. Stitch regulator- this controls the
length of the stitch. Some regulators
can be set to stitch in reverse also.
10. Bobbin winder-this helps in winding
bobbin with thread.
11. Flywheel-when this is made to
revolve it the works the mechanism
of the machine.
12. Clutch or thumb screw- centre of
flywheel which engages and
disengages the stitching mechanism.
13. Slide plate- a rectangular plate which
can be slid open to remove or put in
the bobbin case.
14. Needle plate or throat plate-is a
semi-circular plate with a hole to
allow the needle to pass through it.
15. Feed dog – set of teeth fitted below
the needle plate which helps to move
the cloth forward while sewing.
16. Face plate- cover which hides the
oiling points to be clogged if
exposed.
SEAMS
• Seam is the combination of stitches which make line to join two ply of fabric.
• Used as functional purpose and also decorative purpose.
• Super imposed seam
• Flat seam
• Bound seam
• Decorative seam
SUPER IMPOSED SEAM
• Seam is made stitching two or more separate pieces of fabric sewing together.
• Super imposed seams are most commonly used seams.
• There are varieties of super imposed seams.
FLAT SEAM
• Flat seam us a durable seam commonly used on men’s sports shirts, work clothes,
children’s clothes etc.
• Place the pieces to be joined wrong sides facing and stitch on the seam line.
Press both seam allowances together in the same direction and trim one side
almost 3/8 inch and other part fold the ends in such a way that hides the other
trimmed seam and give a layer of stitch on top of the folded one.
• More over its used in under garments in knit wear and well as double sides
jackets and denim.
BOUND SEAM
• A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of another piece
of fabric.
• The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of garment.
• Some time used a decorative purpose.
DECORATIVE SEAM
• This type of seam is made by making a plain seam and then one or more adjacent
stitch lines in or near by the stitched line area.
• Slot seam or double top stitching comes in decorative class of seams.
TUCKS
• A tuck is a fold of fabric stitched in place by running stitch or machine stitch on
the right side of the garment as a means of
Shaping the garment to the body
For holding in fullness
As a decorative finish
Pin tuck, cross tuck, released tuck and wave tuck.
PIN TUCK
• These are tiny dainty tucks used on baby cloths and fine blouses.
CROSS TUCK
• These tucks are crossing each other as the name suggests
• Tucks are first made vertically as usual, then tucks are made horizontally as well as
at regular intervals
RELEASED TUCK
• These are the kinds of tucks usually seen in clothes to contain the fullness. These
tucks are sewn a few inches and then stopped.
WAVE TUCK
• These are simple tucks sewn across the fabric and then stitched down in a back
and forth manner making waves.
FABRIC TO BE CUT FOR SEAMS AND TUCKS
• 5X2 inches = 10 pieces ( seams )
• Bias strips of contrast or design 2” width of 15 inch.
• Tucks – 10x 10 inch = 1 piece
• 4 x 8 inch =1 piece
• 10 x 4 = 2 piece

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Seams and Sewing Machine

  • 2.
  • 3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE 1. Spoon pin – holds the thread. 2. Thread guides hold the thread in position from spool to the needle. 3. Tension disc- thread passes through two concave disc facing each other which has a spring to increase and decrease the pressure on the disc to pass the thread through the discs. 4. Take up lever –at the outer side a small lever having a hole through which thread to be passed on. This lever helps to loosen the thread while stitching with out any loops. 5. Needle bar – is a steel rod which holds the needle at one end with the help of clamp. 6. Bobbin case this moves into positon to catch the top thread and forms the stitch. Placed inside the lower part of sewing machine.
  • 4. 7. presser foot- is attached to the presser bar and it hold the cloth firmly in position when stitched. 8. Presser foot lifter- lever attached to the presser bar for raising and lowering the presser foot. 9. Stitch regulator- this controls the length of the stitch. Some regulators can be set to stitch in reverse also. 10. Bobbin winder-this helps in winding bobbin with thread. 11. Flywheel-when this is made to revolve it the works the mechanism of the machine. 12. Clutch or thumb screw- centre of flywheel which engages and disengages the stitching mechanism. 13. Slide plate- a rectangular plate which can be slid open to remove or put in the bobbin case. 14. Needle plate or throat plate-is a semi-circular plate with a hole to allow the needle to pass through it. 15. Feed dog – set of teeth fitted below the needle plate which helps to move the cloth forward while sewing. 16. Face plate- cover which hides the oiling points to be clogged if exposed.
  • 5. SEAMS • Seam is the combination of stitches which make line to join two ply of fabric. • Used as functional purpose and also decorative purpose. • Super imposed seam • Flat seam • Bound seam • Decorative seam
  • 6. SUPER IMPOSED SEAM • Seam is made stitching two or more separate pieces of fabric sewing together. • Super imposed seams are most commonly used seams. • There are varieties of super imposed seams.
  • 7. FLAT SEAM • Flat seam us a durable seam commonly used on men’s sports shirts, work clothes, children’s clothes etc. • Place the pieces to be joined wrong sides facing and stitch on the seam line. Press both seam allowances together in the same direction and trim one side almost 3/8 inch and other part fold the ends in such a way that hides the other trimmed seam and give a layer of stitch on top of the folded one. • More over its used in under garments in knit wear and well as double sides jackets and denim.
  • 8. BOUND SEAM • A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of another piece of fabric. • The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of garment. • Some time used a decorative purpose.
  • 9. DECORATIVE SEAM • This type of seam is made by making a plain seam and then one or more adjacent stitch lines in or near by the stitched line area. • Slot seam or double top stitching comes in decorative class of seams.
  • 10. TUCKS • A tuck is a fold of fabric stitched in place by running stitch or machine stitch on the right side of the garment as a means of Shaping the garment to the body For holding in fullness As a decorative finish Pin tuck, cross tuck, released tuck and wave tuck.
  • 11. PIN TUCK • These are tiny dainty tucks used on baby cloths and fine blouses.
  • 12. CROSS TUCK • These tucks are crossing each other as the name suggests • Tucks are first made vertically as usual, then tucks are made horizontally as well as at regular intervals
  • 13. RELEASED TUCK • These are the kinds of tucks usually seen in clothes to contain the fullness. These tucks are sewn a few inches and then stopped.
  • 14. WAVE TUCK • These are simple tucks sewn across the fabric and then stitched down in a back and forth manner making waves.
  • 15.
  • 16. FABRIC TO BE CUT FOR SEAMS AND TUCKS • 5X2 inches = 10 pieces ( seams ) • Bias strips of contrast or design 2” width of 15 inch. • Tucks – 10x 10 inch = 1 piece • 4 x 8 inch =1 piece • 10 x 4 = 2 piece