The document provides an overview of understanding and selling antique homes. It begins with introductions and instructions for the class. Then, it discusses the history of architectural styles in Connecticut from the early colonial period to modern homes. Key styles covered include colonial, federal, Greek revival, Victorian, craftsman, and modern. The document also covers construction methods and materials over time that can help determine a home's age. It identifies common defects in antique homes and discusses selling considerations.
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Understanding and Selling Antique Homes in Today's Market
1. P R E S E N T S
Understanding and Selling Antique Homes
in today’s Real Estate market
2. …and a great class!
Continuing Education Providers
are subject to audit by the State of Connecticut
Please:
Mute your cell phone
Use electronic devices judiciously
Remain in attendance until the
end of the class (or we can’t issue
your credits)
Thank you!
3. Your Credits….
Are submitted electronically to the State of Connecticut
by Tiger Real Estate School
Tiger Real Estate School will email you a
Certificate of Completion within 14 days
Please make sure we don’t land in “spam” and be sure
to save your Certificate where you can find it
There is a $25.00 fee to reissue a Certificate
4. Why is this information important?
“Study the
past,
if you
would
divine the
future”
-Confucius
5. Today, you will learn the following:
Architectural styles , history and the
influence on current construction
Most common defects - what to look for
Using the Construction Process to help
determine age
Understanding differences when
inspecting antique homes and more
modern buildings
Selling Antique Homes – what you need
to know
46. The world was changing fast. Central heat, cisterns to
collect water where it was not now publicly supplied,
and the development of indoor plumbing.
50. Individual nature of homes
Economic boom of
the 1920’s
Need for additional
housing following
WW I
Charm of detail and
uniqueness was not
lost
Wood was still wood
Carpenters were
craftsmen
52. Sears
Homes
(Delivery Included)
Framing, sheathing,
trim, siding, flooring
and wall materials
loaded into a Boxcar at
the Mill
Parts unloaded from the
Boxcar and reloaded to
a Freight Truck for local
delivery
Parts unloaded to your
jobsite for assembly
53. Sears Lines of Homes
Honor Bilt
Most Expensive
Finest Quality
Standard Built
Lightly Framed
Ideal For Warmer Climates
Simplex Sectional Line
Least Expensive
Simple Designs
56. How To Identify a Sears Home
Verify the Construction
Date
Check the Floor plan
Look for Unique Trim
Details
Locate Stamps on
Building Materials
Find Shipping Labels
Search Grantor
Records “Sears Roebuck is
Listed as Designer/Architect”
57. As evidenced in the Sears example, the 20’s
saw facets of modular construction developing
In 1929 common residential construction
dropped off considerably
Massive projects such as the Hoover Dam or
The Empire State Building furthered the
evolution of building techniques and varied
material applications, there was little impact
on residential construction
Until…The Modern and Modernistic “Eras”
61. Impact of WW II
The onset of World War II
changed our entire
economy to wartime
production, again leaving
little room for residential
construction
Our ‘boys’ came home as
men, almost two decades of
limited residential
construction led to demand
never before seen
74. Built around 1802 in Canterbury
The Prudence Crandall House is
a prime example of the
“Canterbury Style” a regional
development of the Georgian
and Federal styles
101. The Role of The Blacksmith
Hand-wrought nails
from 1700’s to wire
nails by the 1880’s
102. The Undeniable Value of Nails
In the late 1690’s the Virginia General Assembly
passed a law creating a fund designed to
encourage people not to burn their houses to the
ground when they moved!
The value of nails was so great that it had
become common practice to burn the houses and
rake the ashes to collect the nails upon departing.
116. The observation of
framing materials,
framing markings,
and framing styles
provides
considerable
information about
the probable age
of a house
Post and beam
framing with joint
number markings
128. 2016 – 2018
(3) Credit Continuing Education Courses
Don’t Let Water Intrusion Sink Your Deal!
Smart Energy Updates for Existing Homes
Innovation in Sustainable Housing – Green Building Best Practices
This Old Connecticut House
Minimize Your Risk, Maximize Your Earnings
Environmental Issues – Evolution to Resolution
What to Expect When We’re Inspecting!
Mold to Sold!
Residential Building Practices
130. 1596 English inventor, Sir
“John” Harrington created
the Ajax – it was not well
received
1775 Alexander Cummings
awarded 1st
patent for water
closet
1852 Jennings patented a
wash out closet
1885 Twyford built 1st
one
piece toilet
The History of The Toilet
(Examined in pain-staking detail)
Working
model of
Jennings
Water
Closet
132. Are Your Ready? Let’s Play…
Name that Architectural
Influence!
The newer homes you are selling today are influenced
by the architectural styles of yesterday
Architectural elements may be blended and combined
Can you identify the past architectural
influence on newer construction?
152. Masonry/FoundationMasonry/Foundation
Dislocations and loose
stones - commonly at building
walls and corners above grade
where exposed to splashing
roof runoff
Bulges - due to frost, water
Cracks (if mortared) settlement
Interruptions and loss of
integrity
209. Selling Antique Homes
Using the right terms
Showing the house
Setting Expectations
Myths
Zoning Regulations
Selecting a Home
Inspector
Resources
210. Using the right terms
Know your historic style
Know the date or period
Describe the elements accurately
Research the style to know what was unique
about it
211. Showing The Old House
Know the style(s) of the house
Start at the front façade to show it
Never end up in the basement
Prepare buyer to be realistic
Set expectations that the house is a work in
progress
212. Setting Expectations
Educate the buyer if they have never owned
an older house
Research the history of the house and town in
which it sits
Locate any past photos or past owners,
deeds...
213. Do’s and Don’ts for Antique Homes
Do determine whether the house is located in
an historic district
Never tell a buyer they can do whatever they
want on exterior
Refer buyer to local building inspector with
questions
Avoid Myths and Old Wives Tales
Address Zoning Regulations
214. Choosing an Antique Home Inspector
Look at credentials
Professional Associations
Ask about past antique home inspections
Ability to communicate effectively with client
Understands historical construction practices to help
determine age
215. Resources
Please refer to your handout
The Connecticut Trust for Historic Preservation – Property and Services
Listings for Connecticut
www.cttrust.org
Historic Properties – Resource for buying and selling Historic Properties
www.historicproperties.com/resources.htm
The National Trust for Historic Preservation
www.preservationnation.org
We will focus on today, the 1620’s through the early 20th century until the end of WWII
Many architectural trends and advancements in technology impacted the nature of American homes over the centuries, they fundamentally remained individually unique.
Whether an antique home is 300 years old or 90 years old, it represents an attention to detail, quality of craftsmanship, and a magnificent combination of function and aesthetics.
Marketing: please be sure to remind Attendees that their local Board will not be aware of these credits. Their local Board only tracks credits for Courses that are taken through them.
I never thought I’d be quoting “Confucius”
Talk about past personal experiences with antique homes as an ice breaker – invite the group to share theirs as well.
Custom built by craftsmen, with an inherent combination of function, form, and aesthetics using simple materials such as wood, stone and a little bit of iron
Architectural Styles, History and influence on current construction
-An evolution in building unlike anywhere else in the world
-Some details and terms illustrated
-Great variety within the styles
- Origins of our housing styles
Most common defects
– we will discuss the ten most common areas of concern unique to antique homes
Understanding differences when inspecting antique homes and more modern buildings
-Materials used
-Different construction practices
-Maintenance requirements
-Built in “charm”
Selling Antique Homes – what you need to know
-We will provide you with several resources to aid in guiding your clients
Choosing an Antique Home Inspector
-What to look for
-What to ask
The great diversity of age, design, and construction creates a challenge to both Realtors and Inspectors – making choosing the right inspector all the more important.
Ask the question, go through resource slides
Incredible natural resources for their use.
The remarkable abundance of fieldstone in much of New England was the obvious choice for the earliest foundations.
Where easily found, the natural cleavage of stone outcrops was also a source for better base stones.
Tool marks from quarried materials before dressing (LEFT)
The earliest examples known tended to be rather rough in nature.
Fresh water for drinking, and soon to power mills.
Early on the use of mills in the ‘new world’ greatly exceeded that of Europe, as there was a fear of technology causing unemployment.
Massive trees to be felled for home construction
Early handmade bricks demonstrate a distinct variation of color (due to location within the kiln) and irregular shape.
The bricks were often irregular in size, and tended to be unevenly fired in the early kilns – some barely better than sun dried, and others fired to the extent their color changed, although their quality was not outstanding. There was some imported brick available, but uncommon
Clay (and often mud) were used as mortar, requiring constant repair of chimneys and stone or brick houses. It led to the need to elect “chimney viewers” to monitor for fire hazard.
The shoreline had the benefit of shell mounds. Several thousand years of shellfish consumption by native Americans left shell mounds that could be burned to produce slaked lime. Although not as high quality a product as that produced from limestone, it contributed to a much higher quality of mortar than is soil based predecessor.
Transportation of lime was a dangerous business for the next two centuries, as only the best ships could be used – if it got wet during transportation it could cause combustion.
Iron works were developing by the 1650’s, Bog Ore was the primary source of iron extraction in early colonial times.
An impure iron bearing oxide mineral dredged from swamps or bogs.
Heat from charcoal was used to remove the iron from the ore in a process called “Smelting”
Under high heat, the process removes the oxygen from the ore to separate the metal, thus producing iron for making nails, hinges, tools, etc.
Manufacturing of charcoal is a separate story in itself. Colliers had to cut down huge tracts of forest to manufacture the charcoal, pile it and slowly burn it without it catching aflame.
The value of iron for tools, cooking implements, nails, etc. can not be overstated. Imagine the labor involved in making a single threaded bolt and wing nut!!!
To provide a brief overview is David Townsend, a well known historian and Inspector
New Haven, Guilford, Saybrook, Hartford, Wethersfield, etc. The earliest communities and Towns were formed on the coast and adjacent to rivers.
A fairly rapid increase of immigrants to the new continent came with much needed individual skills of framers, masons, sawyers and blacksmiths.
As standards of living improved and population expanded, saw mills, brick kilns, and iron works evolved quickly.
As well, the lines of the houses started to evolve into a form unique to this continent.
A long list of architectural styles developed, part prior influence, part interpretation and part experimentation… And here’s what they built
Originally built in the town of Bedford, Massachusetts in 1682 and moved to Main Street in Glastonbury in 1974.
The Bedford Mass. House’s large central chimney and leaded casement windows are reconstructions of common features of post-medieval English house
The Colonial is a classic housing style that hails from the 1600s, when the European settlers first brought building designs to the colonies.
While "Colonial" is a popular moniker applied to many two story houses with a center entry door, there are distinct differences between the many Colonial variations.
Imagine the labor involved in hand crafting just the simplest components
Enter discussion on the types of hardware available at this time, and how the list would be expanded with time.
Obviously the paint came later, probably as a result of the need for “curb appeal” in a minimalist environment
The wealthier and more prominent individuals were able to begin construction of far more substantive structures, by 1630 – 1660 some structures evolved that partially or wholly remain today.
The design of these structures in the early years retained a distinctly Elizabethan character, having evolved in post-medieval Europe.
Discuss material selection differences, square footage, appearance
An excellent example of a seventeenth century-style post-medieval English house and shows that a more traditional style continued to be built in the Connecticut River Valley into the eighteenth century
Post Medieval English homes, designed in the 17th Century, were built around the symmetry that characterized many Colonial homes of that time.
They featured an evenly placed hall and parlor that dominated the interior floor plan. This Colonial style also has a chimney centered in the building and rooms on each side.
The front of the house is sometimes decorated with a small porch or roof overhang that frames the front door.
Steep roof pitches, and distinct overhangs (often framed at the front face) were distinct characteristics of early to mid 1600’s design. This feature is for decoration
By the early 1700’s the framed overhang had all but disappeared, not to be seen again until the evolution of the “Garrison Colonial” that became popular in the 1930’s
Common early window style and minimal building adornments. A significant amount of labor went into these details
Due to the lack of skills and difficulty in producing glass, windows were minimal and panes where small.
There were two main kinds of glass; flint glass and soda lime glass:
Flint glass was made of calcined flint, soda, and lead or lead oxide, the glass was clear and expensive to make.
Soda lime glass was made out of silica, soda from sodium oxide, and lime from limestone, the glass was dark in color and inexpensive to make.
Both types of glass were made the same way. The mixture of ingredients was heated in a crucible in the furnace.
The molten mixture was either blown into the desired shape or it was blown into a mold to make the desired shape.
An early blueprint shows the overhangs on the exterior of the home.
The main entry referred to as a “porch” – a covered entry
The area consumed by the fireplace is substantial given the “lean to – addition was not part of the original design.
Dotted lines illustrate the location of the beam structure at the perimeter, center and fireplace locations.
Discuss spatial use, additions and reasons for adding on…
Early Characteristics
Steep roof pitches and a large center chimneys were the most pronounced characteristics, with minimal decorative trim, small windows, and often distinct overhangs.
A “lean to” addition, the roots of the “Saltbox” is often found at the rear of many current examples.
Built around 1660, the Thomas Lee House in Niantic is one of Connecticut’s oldest wood frame post-Medieval English houses.
The lean-to, which makes the house a saltbox, was added about 1765.
An example of and early six pane sash with common joinery for the time
Mortise and tenon details with wooden dowel construction secure the joinery.
Glass is becoming more readily available, as such, windows are larger and located all around the home
The Cape Cod features simple one story buildings with a single chimney in the center of the home.
While the level of detail varies, the underlying characteristics of any Colonial are rectangular shapes, double hung windows and symmetrical room designs.
Aside from the one story Cape Cod, most Colonials have bedrooms on the second floor.
Exposed framing members and wood paneling were the usual interior finish in 17th and early 18th century homes.
The quantity of nails needed for installing wood lath backer for plaster were hard to come by.
In addition to the scarcity of nails, the earliest houses seldom had plaster walls due to the rarity of lime to produce the plaster
Cornice usually emphasized with dentil or other decorative molding.
Windows with double hung sashes of 9 to 12 small panes per sash; windows never adjacent in pairs.
Windows typically five-ranked and symmetrically balanced with center door. (less common would be 3 or 7 ranked windows)
Paneled entry door with decorative crown supported by pilasters.
A row of small rectangular glass panes at the door beneath the crown.
Lower a very basic peaked pediment, right at highly ornate entry with a swan pediment from the 1740’s
1700’s
Paneled front door with glazing and decorative crown supported by pilasters
• Cornice emphasized by decorative moldings such as dentils
• Windows in symmetrical rows with pediments at the first floor level
The Georgian Colonial is a classic style that takes basic Colonial features and enhances them with interesting finishing touches
The result is a style that has more grandeur and finesse than the standard Colonial.
As with most Colonials, symmetry is an important feature of the Georgian Colonial, from the window placement to the positioning of the front door and the layout of the bedrooms.
Many of these homes were built with medium pitched roofs, little roof overhang, and two chimneys
Cornice usually emphasized with dentil or other decorative molding.
Windows with double hung sashes of 6 panes per sash; windows never adjacent in pairs.
Windows typically five-ranked and symmetrically balanced with center door. (less common would be 3 or 7 ranked windows)
Semi-circle or elliptical fanlight over paneled door, typically accompanied by sidelights, elaborated crown and surround, and/or extended as a small entry porch.
A good example of a Federal-style house (although the Palladian window may not be original to the house), the Jonathan Mix House, on Elm Street in New Haven, was built in 1799.
Other info:
In 1832, it was purchased by a nephew of Eli Whitney, and was owned by members of his family until it was acquired by the Graduate Club in 1901.
Late 1700’s to early 1800’s
Fanlight or elliptical detail at entry
Palladian windows very common
6 pane double hung windows
Other info:
The Adam style of architecture is named after famed British architect Robert Adam who combined symmetrical housing lines with fussy swags, ribbons, dentil molding, and elaborate color schemes.
Many people were eager to embrace these stately Adam style homes, as they represented a significant shift away from the popular colonial style that filled many neighborhoods.As the style became popular, it soon was adapted to American tastes and called the Federal style.
Provide commentary
1799 Paul Revere, President of the Boston Board of Health.
If the contents of your privy is 18” from the surface, it must be emptied by a licensed person.
The first septic contractors. Notice the horse drawn “septic tanker” at the bottom of the announcement
The Greek Revival period in America rose to prominence in the 1820s and 1830s and influenced architecture for decades afterward.
Gabled or hipped roof of low pitch, a departure from previous styles
Entry porch or full width porch supported by square or round prominent columns
Narrow line of transom and sidelights, usually incorporated into an elaborate door surround
Cornice lines emphasized with wide, divided band of trim at porch and upper cornice locations
Greek Revival buildings are also marked by a symmetrical layout and large but simple moldings
List elements of the door system:
Door panel with single light glazing
Surround – with two narrow sidelights, (shuttered) with four glass panes at each side, trim, and threshold with kick plate below
Hardware – Hinges and lock set*
*notice the locking mechanism (handle removed) and demonstrate operation of lock
Front gable shaped to look like the pediment façade of a Greek Temple, lowered roof pitch
• Small attic windows (frieze band windows)
• Front door surrounded by narrow sidelights and transom, ornate
Large columns at porch and detailed entablature above
• Cornice emphasized with a wide boards
Entablature is the entire element
Following the development of our first well established communities, the hallmark of antique homes has been attention to detail.
Handcrafted to please the eye, each home was a testimony to the talents of the artisans.
The advent of improved construction practices and machinery allowed for greater experimentation and expression
Window Elements:
Muntins – separate panes of glazing
Mullions – separate two or more windows
Panes – glass or glazing
Sash – window unit of frame and glazing
Sill – horizontal component of window at base that seals out the elements
Styles:
Broken Pediment – Gothic revival, Tudor
Unbroken Pediment – Colonial revival, Italianate, Second Empire
Gothic – Gothic Revival
Types:
Single and Double Hung
Palladian Combination
Projecting Bow –
Attic story windows – common in greek revivals
Ask the question. Answer – all of them
The Victorian Age encompassed the last three quarters of the nineteenth century, many styles and trends overlapped each other causing the Victorian era to be very eclectic.
The first of the Victorians started out to be relatively simple in style, while those built after the Civil War became more elaborate.
New technology helped architecture break free into a new era of beautiful homes.
Beginning in the 1830s, the flexibility of balloon framing freed buildings from the timber-framed box forms of the past.
Houses were now built with bays, turrets, overhangs, odd corners, and irregular floor plans.
Pattern books and magazines published house plans that provided inspirations for new varieties of trim and decoration.
Millwork factories cranked out spindles, moldings, turned columns, decorative brackets.
Chapin Park, which is today a bed and breakfast, is an 1871 Gothic Revival house
Known as the “Pointed Style” Gothic Revival was built in the 1840’s – 1890’s and was one of the first residential Victorian styles.
Gothic Revival borrowed decorative elements from Churches and town halls that were built in Europe between 1100 and 1500.
A lancet window is a tall narrow window with a pointed arch at its top. It acquired the "lancet" name from its resemblance to a lance (shown here 2nd story bay window)
In the United States Its architectural near-cousins included the Greek Revival and Italianate styles.
The distinctive home, built in 1886 for Frederick G. Platt, is located at 25 Court Street in New Britain. With its prominent tower decorated with ornamental terra cotta, the house is a striking example of the High Victorian Gothic style.Chapin Park, which is today a bed and breakfast, is an 1871 Gothic Revival house
The most prominent feature of the Italianate style in the Northeast is the occurrence of large eave brackets under the roof .
The Italianate house has two or three stories; a low pitched roof, tall narrow windows that are L or U shaped.
Balconies with balustrades and a roof-top cupola were common to the Italianate Style.
Low sloped roofing
Cupola or tower
Wide overhang with decorative brackets
Tall, narrow windows, round tops are common
Belt course and quoining fairly common on masonry homes
Columns usually grouped
The Mansardic or Second Empire was fashionable about the same time as the Italianate.
It is distinguished by the mansard roof, which is heavily decorated with dormer windows, colored tile patterns, and iron cresting.
The Second Empire took it’s inspiration from French architecture. The French had codes that limited their building to a certain number of stories. However, they didn’t count the area directly under the roof a story.
The mansard roof was a very effective way of expanding the living space while still being lawful.
Why is Mansardic considered Victorian?
Second Empire style originated in France, not England, but quickly spread to Britain and the U.S. and is considered Victorian because of the timing of its appearance.
Mansard Roof (dual pitched hipped roof)
• Dormer windows on lower slope
• Often have patterned shingles in the roof and cresting
Tall Windows
Recessed entry
Quoins fairly common
Displaying Victorian-era features, like the decorative stickwork on the front veranda
The Queen Anne was the most predominant, varied, and decoratively rich architectural style.
When most of us think Victorian, we picture the Queen Anne in our thoughts.
Queen Anne had elaborate trim applied to nearly every surface.
At the time, this type of ornamental excess was made possible by power tools and mass produced trim work.
Large, patterned chimney
Body of house - Gable ornaments, patterned shingle work, pent roof (small angled base of pediment) and corner brackets
Large pane of window glass surrounded by smaller panes
Irregular shape – no symmetry
• Patterned shingles
• Bay windows
• Towers
• Several different materials to make different wall textures
• Half have delicate turned porch posts
• Lacy, decorative spandrels
• Gingerbread and Eastlake detailing
Eclectic blend of styles
It inspired the Shingle Style, which became popular in the U.S. in the 1880s.
Imagine the changes that have occurred in just 2 ½ centuries!
What is the impact on structures built previously to add these modern systems?
Often we find structural defects that can be traced back to the installation of heat, electricity and water systems
We’ll visit these and other issues today.
The Stick Style is considered to be a transitional style between the Gothic Revival and the Queen Anne.
Some of these homes were also referred to as Eastlake, after the British furniture designer and arbiter of taste, Charles Eastlake.
Stick Style is less an architectural style than a type of decorative treatment applied to the outside walls of homes and other buildings in imitation of a medieval construction technique.
The term "stick" is a kind of shorthand for half-timbered, and specifically refers to wooden homes in the U.S. built in the first three decades of the 20th century.
Stick Style is considered to be a type of Victorian.
Stick Style Characteristics:
Cross gabled steeply pitched roof
• Decorative trusses in the gable
• Wooden wall cladding interrupted by patterns of horizontal, vertical or diagonal
boards raised from the wall surfaces for emphasis (stick work)
• Large Porches have diagonal braces
Shingle Style
As it’s name implies, it was covered almost completely with unpainted wood shingles.
The Shingle style was built with a rustic appeal, steeply pitched or long sloped roofs, spacious porches, rough-surfaced stone was used as a contrasting material, turrets, verandas, and little to no external decoration.
Shingle Style is distinctly Colonial American due to its the wood shingle features.
This style is considered to be a completely original American style and signaled a transition in design
Shingle Style Characteristics:
Irregular steeply pitched roof
• Large porches
• Shingle walls without corner boards
• Asymmetrical façade
• Decorative detailing used sparingly
• Often have a tower
• Porch posts are often clad in Shingles
The Craftsman style house is also known as Arts and Crafts style. The style was popular from 1905 until 1930, and was based on the Arts and Crafts movement of the 1880s.
This movement emphasized the use of natural materials and simple forms. The Craftsman name originated with a magazine published in the early part of the 20th century by Gustav Stickley.
Craftsman homes are distinguished by open floor plans with lots of windows; low pitched roofs with wide eaves; wood, stone, or stucco siding; and a porch supported by thick stone columns. Beamed ceilings, exposed roof rafters, dark wainscoting and moldings, and built-ins.
Craftsman ideas have been applied to many other styles including Bungalow, Prairie, Foursquare, Mission, Western Stick, and Pueblo.
Craftsman Characteristics
Low pitched roof
• Wide, unenclosed overhang
• Roof rafters exposed
• Decorative beams or braces commonly added under the roof
• Tapered, square porch columns often extending to ground level
In 1908, Sears issued its first specialty catalog for houses, Book of Modern Homes and Building Plans, featuring 22 styles ranging in price from US $650–$2,500
Question – how much would that be in today's’ dollars? ($15,388–$59,187 in 2008 dollars)
Ready-to-assemble mail order houses
Shipped by railroad boxcar, and trucked to a home site, the average Sears Modern Home kit had 25 tons of materials, with over 30,000 parts.
Plumbing and electrical fixtures and heating systems were not included in the kit, but could be purchased separately
Over 70,000 of these were sold in North America between 1908 and 1940
Question – What happened in 1929?
(The onset of the Great Depression - common residential construction dropped off considerably)
Modern
The Modern Style was in vogue during the first half of the 20th Century. Made popular by the examples of renowned architects Henry Greene and Frank Lloyd Wright, the Modern home is based on functionality with lean lines of metal and glass.
Geometric patterns are straightforward and boxy, but with an elegant simplicity.
Homes in this group may have concrete foundations along with shallow-pitched or flat roofing.
There are few flourishes in the Modern Style. Unlike Victorian, Modern prefers to use subtle touches for accents. The style was more prevalent in commercial building architecture or in city homes--less so in the countryside.
The Modern Style includes the sub-categories of Art Deco, Ranch, International, Craftsman, Art Moderne, and Prairie Style.
Question – What is the name of this very famous Frank Lloyd Wright Home at the left?
Falling Water, Built 1936 to 1939. Located in Southwestern Pennslyvania.
Just an hour outside New York lies an icon of modern architecture. Philip Johnson's Glass House is located in New Canaan, Connecticut.Designed as Johnson's summer getaway, this 1,300 square foot pavilion is situated on nearly 50 acres of land. Architects consider this a major piece of work.
It made a splash when it was completed in 1949, expressing the modernist ideal in the lack of applied ornament.
Clearly, not for everyone (pun intended)
Floor plan of the glass house
The only private space is the bathroom
WWII 1939 - 1945
How many of us grew up hearing the term “ice box” ?
Surely an ice box is considered an antique today – the houses of the period predating the depression and WW II had ice boxes.....
That was about to change, with the advent of production housing
Never before in American history had we seen building at the scale that was demanded.
Levitt Homes, a completely different approach to providing housing.
Notice the “no cash” statement for veterans – the start of target marketing?
Post War housing needs effectively end our representation of the Antique Home Period.
From 1950 to 1960 over 20 million people were drawn to mass housing developments.
Slab on grade, radiant heat, and a constantly repeated framing plan.
Construction workers performed the same job in repetition… Provide examples
(How’d you like 6% of this neighborhood?)
Ok. Let’s apply what we’ve learned!
Dual pitched “barn style” roofing, center entry home.
Dual chimney, fanlight over door.
Living space under roof
Pedimented gable
Medium pitched hip roof, little roof overhang, and two chimneys.
This one is tricky!
This is a tough one! Styles are blended!
Built around 1802 - a prime example of the “Canterbury Style,” a regional development of the Georgian and Federal styles
Asymmetrical design
Best cues from the porch
As pure a definition of the style as you will see…
Martha Stewart sells Turkey Hill estate in Westport, CT for $6.7M
Decorating magnate Martha Stewart has sold her Turkey Hill estate in Westport, Connecticut for $6,500,000.
The Wall Street Journal reported the news last week of the sale, which was recorded on June 15, according to public records. Stewart, 65, had had the place on the market since May 2006, when she listed the four-acre estate for $8,995,000
Too easy!
Owned by Samuel Langhorne Clemens
Many styles are blended or have been modified.
Be sure you can describe the home by its’ features, if you can’t, defer to someone who can help.
Extra Credit!!!
Roseland Cottage 1846 Gothic Revival Woodstock, CT
The Octagon Style began in America at the middle of the 19th Century, but had run its course by 1860.
There are a few thousand of these eight-sided homes said to still be found in North America.
With its eight-sided cupola, the Octagon home offered residents more control over the ventilation and light that entered the house.
The design centered around a concept that the shape would positively influence the emotional states of the owners--a kind of early American feng shui.
Other info:
Architect Orson Squire Fowler championed the style, saying it was an inexpensive, solid, and more-livable alternative to the ornate, asymmetrical homes of the day done in Italianate, Greek, or Gothic Revival styles.Pictured - The Leete-Griswold House, on Fair Street (formerly Petticoat Lane) in Guilford, was built by Edwin A. Leete in 1856.
The house is in the Octagon style, although it no longer has its original overhanging eaves with decorative brackets.
Brick Federal Style with Gothic “frosting” Called the Wedding Cake House located in Kennebunk Maine. Inspired by Milan’s Gothic Cathedral
As an example of late Federal architecture: (look closely and point out these details)
It had five bays
A hipped roof with a balustrade
Paired chimneys
A Palladian window above the front door fanlight.
Dutch Colonial The roof lines resemble that of a barn, as the style hails from rural parts of the Northeastern United States during the 1600s.The Dutch settlers who inhabited that area built brick and stone houses with ground level porches, double hung windows, and a chimney at one or both ends.
Unlike other Colonial styles, the Dutch Colonial has some asymmetrical features, such as side entrances.Some older Dutch Colonials feature front doors divided horizontally, which makes it easier to keep livestock outside and still let light in.
This popular style saw a resurgence in many parts of the United States during the 1920s.
Many of those homes, scattered throughout the Northeast and Midwest, lean toward the Dutch Colonial Revival style, which took the original style and added larger entrances, larger floor plans, and fancier windows.
French colonial houses in America are located in Louisiana, not a common sight in Connecticut.
Their distinguishing characteristics are that they are usually one story with many narrow door and window openings with paired French doors and paired casement windows, stepped pitched roofs, either hipped or gabled, and walls of stucco over a have timbered frame.
These have side gabled or hipped roofs and flared eaves that overhang the front facade
To understand a building, we need some background on the tools, processes and materials used in its’ construction.
Identify some of the hand tools used in construction of the home – cite examples of use
Top Left - Draw Knife to shape wood
Top Right – Wood turning tools for use on lathe
Lower Left - Black Smith Tools for shaping metal
Lower Right – Carpenters hand tools for sizing and shaping wood
Froe – a splitting tool to create shingles (froe driven with a maul, shingles tapered on a “shingle horse”)
Broad axes – to square the timbers
Adzes – to refine the timbers once squared
The earliest structures were built with no cellar, with little more than a fieldstone base upon which the framing was set.
As the larger trees were dropped or “felled”, the timbers were squared with a Broad Ax
Where a smoother finish was desired the rough surface from the broad ax was cleaned up with an adze.
Different types of pit saws. Two men operated, one on top and one in “the pit”
Saw marks as indicators – pit swan lumber, crossing blade marks
Flat sawn lumber typical from 1700 - 1850
Saw Marks:
By the late 1700s, most boards were cut in a water-powered mill, often with a single-blade reciprocating saw which left shaggy, parallel vertical marks (left).
Steam-powered circular saws, which left arcing striations (right), came into use after 1840.
Larger timbers for beams were still hewn by hand with an ax well into the 19th century, leaving gouges (inset).
Identify saw mill parts –
water driven wheel
gear apparatus to engage the saws
saw blades
table with locks to secure the timbers
Inset – Parallel vertical marks from the water powered saw
Steam! The single biggest influence on changing the face of American domestic life.
Transportation, saw mills, water pumps for developing municipal water supply, manufacturing, etc
Inset show angled and circular saw marks from the steam powered saw.
Circular sawn lumber from about 1825 – to date
Walk through the intended use of each set of tools, others to add???
Siding and trim –
Timber framing -
Roofing –
Finish Work -
Mortising Bit
Shaving Horse
Chisels to square mortises
Wooden Pegs to secure the framing
Nails: Hand-wrought nails from the 1700s come to a sharp point and have uneven heads
The earliest nails were made from relatively soft iron, hand-wrought nails could be extracted, straightened and reused. Older nails are commonly found in later buildings.
Most commonly a four-faceted "rose head nails" (second from top) or two-sided "T-head nail" (center).
Hand-hammered octagonal-shaped heads on cut nails (bottom) were made until 1825
Later came rectangular, machine-made nail heads (second from bottom). (These are sometimes used today on flooring.)
By 1880, wire nails—the round-shafted, circular-headed pointy nails we use today (top)—were being phased in.
Machine-cut nails, common from 1789 to the 1890s, were wedge shaped.
Other info:
In 1795 nails sold for an average of 25 cents a pound.
By 1840’s the price had dropped to 3 cents a pound.
Clearly, the Realtor’s lobby has had influence for some time.
Then value of nails cannot be underestimated, they are also significant as aids to dating structures.
Once Again, David Townsend on the development of Nails
Some tools they used were:
Anvil - heavy iron block used to hammer metal into shape
Forge - furnace for heating metal
Fuller - tool for pounding grooves into iron
Hammer - used to bend hot metal into a shape
Mandrel - a round, hornlike tool for shaping iron
Grabbers for taking hot metal out of the fire
Claws for holding the hot metal while they hammered.
The blacksmith made nails, swords, hatchets, axe heads, bullets, anchors, anchor chains, hooks, iron hoops, shipwright tools, anvils, horse shoes, hinges, hammer heads, gates, gate locks, and wheel barrows.
They also repaired tools used by other tradesmen. Carpenters would buy the tools they needed for building things, and commanders would buy the weapons for the army from the blacksmith.
Fieldstone below grade, cut (dressed) stone at visible foundation areas
In the Hartford area, where the native reddish sandstone was softer than the granite that is prevalent in much of the area, quarrying was known to have occurred in the late 1630’s.
As transportation of the quarried stone was always difficult, it often was taken from areas close to roadways, inspiring an ordinance that upon completion the pits must be filled.
The chimney foundation in earlier timber frame homes was an important part of the foundation
You can see that the foundation for the chimney is part of the structural framing system, this is no longer the case.
Why?
Describe elements of foundation, support and hearth extension
The chimney within the house and the attic still consumed a great deal of space.
Question - What are these stairs for?
“Roof Hatch” provides access to clean the chimney.
Discussion on chimney design… The photograph here shows a leaning, corbelled brick chimney in a pre-1900 home.
Anyone have a concern about this chimney?
Why is it angled like this?
Is there a liner, what is the liner condition?
Chimney Movement detected indoors in masonry chimneys can cause damage to the flue liner or openings that might admit sparks (fire risk) or gases (carbon monoxide hazards) into the building structure or even into occupied spaces.
When inspecting an old chimney which was corbelled over at an angle to come out at the center of the building roof's ridge (done for aesthetic reasons) inspect the chimney carefully at the attic floor where the chimney changes from angled (corbelled) to vertical.
This floor-level inspection, that is, inspection at the point from which a leaning masonry chimney begins to deviate from its original vertical structure, is a critical space to look for hidden and possibly dangerous damage, especially if the chimney is small, possibly constructed of a single brick wythe in thickness.
If the corbelled flue has sagged along with the roof, the chimney may be cracked and open at this point even though other cracks were not seen.
A fire remained burning within the fireplace constantly almost year round.
Working to feed the fireplace was a task that involved everyone within the family, in that it required an enormous amount of wood to generate heat for the household and for cooking.
By the early to mid 1700’s the oven which had traditionally been at the rear of the fireplace found it’s way to the front.
Other info:
Stripped down to show design and construction elements:
Wood Storage
Bee hive oven
Fireplace
Discuss operation of the system
Typical example of the earliest framed homes, in New England the need for a center chimney became the standard.
Post & beam – major components, walk through system
How many bays would this home have? (three)
Walk through construction details…
Gabled frame section with beam makes up a bent, space between bent(s) is a bay
Girt is the horizontal framing member between the posts and rafters
Purlins are the horizontal framing members between each rafters section
Beams, Posts and Purlins are chamfered to accommodate roof angle (not shown)
Braces are common between the post and beam for lateral support (not shown)
King Posts are common in larger Bents to support the ridge (not shown)
Timber framing or post and beam frame construction was first employed in North American in the early 1700's and by the 1800's, when mechanically-driven sawmills were common in New England, timber framing using sawn beams this construction method was common for barns and for many homes as well
Typical attic framing
Which is saw cut, which is hand cut?
New England Braced Frame Construction details:
Braces “let into” the corner post and girts.
Joists notched to rest on the girts.
Wall studs nailed to the braces, sill, girt and plate
Ribbon strip “let into” the framing at the top of wall to reinforce corner post and top plate joint.
Small headers over door and window locations.
Other info:
Improved saw mills and nail production allowed for the first significant change in construction technique.
Beginning in the 1830s, the flexibility of balloon framing freed buildings from the timber-framed box forms of the past
Balloon Frame Construction
Differences from the braced frame:
Box sill vs. the solid sill (the box sill enable an improved floor joist connection)
The studs are one piece from the basement to attic, corner and wall bracing “let in” to framing.
Additional fire stops are required due to the wall stud framing detail at sill, mid-span of each level and at top plate in attic
Second floor joists fastened to wall stub and supported by rib-band (1x4 nailed to stud below joist)
Why was it called “Balloon Framing?”
Modern Platform Framing –
Efficient use of lumber and labor, good strength, reduced fire stopping required, and box sill at each level.
Pegged “Scarf” Joint at the inset on the right
Original sheathing, nearly two feet wide – how big was the tree?
Left Gable Wall – indication of age, overhanging second level
Roof line changed from original cape style home.
Original clapboard siding behind updated first floor wall framing.
Rear Wall – a variety of framing techniques show the modifications made over the years:
Braced framing at second story, some areas of lath and plaster, other gypsum materials.
Wide plank sheathing at lower corner
Post and beam framing elements – possibly from recycled materials (notice the beam notches)
Joe – Original??
Let’s review what we have for framing systems – walk through, cite dates
Walk through styles
Walk through styles
We’ll discuss this and many other interesting systems “after the break”
In 1596, the first flushing toilet was invented by Sir John Harrington.
He made one for himself and one for his godmother Queen Elizabeth. These were the only two ever produced.
After Sir John published a book describing his invention, he was mocked into retirement for his foolish creation.
It took almost 200 years before anyone else attempted to create a flushing toilet.
A watchmaker called Alexander Cummings invented the first modern flushing toilet in 1775.
In 1777 Samuel Prosser made strides in the reemergence of the water closet and it was improved in 1778 by Joseph Bramah.
In 1885, a revolution in toilet making occurred: Thomas Twyford created the first valve less toilet made of china. Until then, water closets were more commonly made of metal and wood.
Other information:
Where would you keep a potty? Probably quite far away from your food, right? Well, in the 1700s, the most likely place for a potty would be in the dining room. They were kept inside furniture, such as a sideboard.
Most Georgian city people had a cesspit in their garden or under their house. They would empty the pot into the cesspit. There are lots of stories from that time about people dying in the 'night air'. We now know that it was deadly poisonous gas given off by the waste in the cesspits.
Around 1750, a new type of loo called a "pan closet" was invented. At the bottom of the closet was a pan designed to seal in unpleasant odours. It wasn’t very good because they couldn't keep the pan clean.
It is widely reported that Thomas Crapper invented the toilet. Not true.
He did own a plumbing supply store in England and bought the rights to a patent for a "Silent Valve less Water Waste Preventer," but he should not be credited with inventing the toilet.
His name is associated with toilets because his company made them, and his toilets had his name on them
1990’s salt box reproduction with garages beneath
1950’s Cape Cod Style with front gable, side entry and attached garage
Marketed as “Reproduction Dutch Colonial” from 1970’s with garage beneath
Gambrel (barn style roofing)
Clapboard siding, simple details
1960’s Garrison Style Colonial with side entry and attached garages
David Somers Canton – Federal/Adam Characteristics
Entry – sidelights, fan top window, covered entry/small extended porch
Windows – Palladian second story center, 6 pane per sash, separate – not paired
Marketed as a “Custom French Colonial” hip and gable style roofing from the 1990’s
Typically steep hipped roofs with dormers, wide front porches and french doors at the entry and interior with no hallways in the home.
House Truth
Sagging Ridge/Framing or Support Defects?
Wall out of plumb/What’s Acceptable?
Sill out of level/Course of Action for Preservation
Other info:
How do you know if the structure is sound? Check to be sure that the ridges of the roof aren’t bowing or the eaves are sagging.
A bow is a signal that there may be a structural flaw and sagging of the overhangs can mean that they aren’t supported or
are carrying too much weight. These may be significant issues that need to be taken care of.
Other signs that there are problems:
The windows won’t open because the jams are not square
The doors swing open or close on their own
The doors stick
There is significant bowing in the floors. (Almost all old homes have some degree of bowing)
There is bowing between the siding and the basement walls which could signal uneven settling
The chimney is separating from the walls
There are large cracks in foundation walls and plaster
1x ridge at chimney, framing is separated. Sheathing is rotted – plywood installed over original sheathing without making framing repairs
Left – support for under framed dormer. A poor attempt at repair, consider this temporary.
Right – an example of secondary support added done in a manner as to remain in place permanently
Point out details.
Left – a poorly executed support system installed beneath a failed floor system (a little scary)
Right – a typical secondary form of support installed on an unknown footing, serving it’s purpose for decades (or longer). Installed beneath partition wall to prevent movement where original structure lacked a beam support (at partition)
A greater variety of structural repairs?
What is the quality of the repair, will it last?
Why is the floor crooked?
Water/Moisture Penetration
Water From Where?
Interior/Exterior Repair
Dealing with Moisture – is the “system” installed on the left going to be effective at controlling moisture?
Chimney Issues
Chimney Condition/Liner
Fireplace
Foundation
Effects of moisture evident at both systems
Left – hole in deteriorated, un-lined chimney (active system)
Right – Liner added to an improperly constructed chimney. (see the two tile liners)
A variety of materials and methods exist for repairing un-lined chimneys, prices can vary from $1,000 to well over $10,000 dependent upon the method chosen for the system
Damaged liners at top (left) and heating liner as viewed from fireplace at smoke chamber (improper construction detail)
Masonry and Foundation systems
Type/Maintenance
Repairing Failures
Additions/Modifications
Stone walls, like other masonry walls, are often damaged by water and frost, especially where roof spillage splashes close to the foundation wall.
In this photo the mortar, probably a soft lime and sand mix, has washed out of stones at this inside corner of the building foundation where the corner is below a roof valley - a source of frequent spillage during rain and melting snow.
Long term moisture intrusion, heavy silt washing through foundation. Partial, prior repairs noted.
Insect Infestation
Active or Old?
Treat or Not To Treat?
Damage?
Active termites
Inset, common termite damage
Carpenter ants do not eat wood as termites, but simply excavate into it to create a nest, as name suggests.
Often times Carpenter ants may not have a nest in wood at all. They are adaptable and able to take advantage of a wide variety of nesting options.
Any dark, undisturbed location in your home may suffice, Over time, these insects can do significant damage. They leave “frass” (sawdust) behind
Powder post beetles insert their cylindrical eggs into the surface pores of green wood (non-kiln dried).
After the eggs have hatched and the larvae mature, they bore from within, just below the outer surface of the wood to pupate.
When adults emerge for the pupae stage, they actually bore through the surface, form an exit hole by pushing out some frass, find a mate and soon start the cycle again by depositing new eggs in the wood
The two most common and destructive families of ppb in are the Lyctidae and Anobiidae.
Lyctid powderpost beetles attack only wood products manufactured from hardwoods , e.g., oak, ash, walnut and hickory.
Other info:
Biology and Behavior
Powerpost beetle is a term used to describe several species of small (1/8-3/4 inches long), wood-boring insects which reduce wood to a fine, flour-like powder. Damage is done by the larvae as they create narrow, meandering tunnels in wood as they feed. Infestations are discovered after noticing small, round "shotholes" in the wood surface. These are exit holes where adult beetles have chewed out of the wood after completing their development. Newly-emerged adults mate and lay eggs on or below the surface of bare (unfinished) wood. The eggs hatch into tiny larvae which bore into the wood, emerging as adults 1-5 years later, usually during April - July. Homeowners are more likely to see damage than the beetles, themselves, because the adults are short-lived and are active mainly at night.
The two most common and destructive families of ppb in Kentucky are the Lyctidae and Anobiidae. Lyctid powderpost beetles attack only wood products manufactured from hardwoods , e.g., oak, ash, walnut and hickory. Consequently, infestations are most often found in wood paneling, molding, window and door frames, plywood, hardwood floors, and furniture.
Most common issues found in vintage homes include:
Knob and Tube wiring many homeowner insurance companies may not grant coverage unless upgraded
30 or 60 amps and 120 volt (2 wire), 240 volt service may have one leg disconnected
Excess circuits for service several add-on sub panels, oversized fuses
No main disconnect at panel or meter, and lacking ground rod or ground bonding
A variety of conditions will be found from aged systems in need of replacement, to brand new – up to date wiring, which needs nothing!
Other Info:
Here are a few other things to check to make sure the electrical systems are in good condition:
Make sure all junction boxes have covers
Check the neatness of the existing wiring.
Electrical wiring that appears messy or disorganized might not have been installed by a licensed electrician and it should be checked to ensure it is serviceable
Have any concerns checked by a licensed electrician.
Knob & tube wiring shown.
1880-1939 – Electrical wiring from this era is not considered safe for modern usage – due to age, brittle parts and insulation, corrosion, circuit overload and heat stress over time.
There is no grounding and outlets are not polarized for hot and neutral; hot and neutral wires are not color-coded for safety.
Minimal circuits are installed because electrical wiring was only for lighting.
The wiring is inadequate to handle more modern use as electrical appliances are added.
Edison-based fuses are used, which allow coins to be installed instead of fuses. Newer S-fuses need to be installed for proper ground protection.
Fused neutrals, reversed polarity wiring is unsafe.
1940 to 1969 – Electrical systems improve.
Electrical systems still are not grounded and outlets are not grounded-type, but now are polarized.
Many wires are of poor quality, some plastic-coated, others are wire-covered cables.
Single-strand aluminum wiring used in some houses is unsafe.
Stab-Lok Panel Shown
1967 to 1970 – There were numerous problems with the wiring during these years due to wire overheating.
Multi-strand aluminum wiring, if properly sized for use, was considered safer.
Fuses still commonly used, but by this time some houses had breakers installed for ease of consumer use.
Breaker designs have had numerous failures due to non-tripping when needed.
1970 to 2000 – Electrical systems are safer.
Wiring is grounded and outlets are the grounded type.
More circuits are installed in houses to help support larger electrical demands by consumers.
Breakers are used to protect wiring in houses for common usage. Certain brands of breakers were no safer than the previous types because they would fail to trip.
GFCI breakers are designed to protect people from injury/death where water and ground faults could occur.
2001 to 2008-Electrical systems are the safest yet
Have GFCI breakers with interlock so that if incorrectly installed, the circuit will not work until wiring is repaired.
The wiring has grounded circuits on all wiring for safety.
More circuits with circuit protection with breaker protection are in use for safety.
There is AFCI-protection for bedroom circuits to protect from arc faults.
Plumbing
Supply
Waste
What did they do to get it into the home?
PLUMBING: POTABLE SYSTEMS (drinking water)
1880 to 1945 – Galvanized water pipe is used in houses, with lead pipes used for water mains to the house.
Galvanized pipe tends to rust with time, which will restrict water flow. Lead and other use-specific to regional areas pipes were used. Lead is now considered unsafe for everyone.
Red and yellow brass, threaded piping such as these have a useful life of 40 – 80 years. Functionally obsolete at this point.
1945 to 2008 – Copper pipe used in houses. Sometimes a combination of copper and galvanized pipes was used.
Lack of di-electric unions cause electrolysis and pipe failure. Water lines routed under the concrete slab floor may have soldered joints that fail with age.
Typically, pinholes can develop in copper piping due to water flow in pipe and chemical reactions to the copper.
1970 to 2008 – Non-metallic piping may have been used. The name of the pipe and date are printed on most non-metallic piping.
PVC-White color used for cold water only.
CPVC-Tan color used for hot and cold water and has a diameter different from PVC piping that will not interchange without special fittings and approved glue.
Polybutylene pipe is grey in color and is used with compression rings of copper on fittings of plastic and copper. Some of this pipe is also a red- or blue-color plastic. This pipe and these fittings have many problems; contact a plumber regarding replacement.
PEX is a cross-linked plastic pipe that comes in many colors depending on the manufacturer. This pipe may be used to replace other plumbing systems.
PLUMBING: DWV (DRAIN WASTE AND VENTING)
Framing systems frequently compromised during the installation of these systems!
1880s to 1970s – Clay pipes were used for sewer drainage. This type of pipe allows roots to enter at joints, which restricts the flow through the line. (Obsolete)
1880s to 1970s – Cast-iron sewer pipes may be been used. These pipes typically have lead and oakum at the joints. (Many are functional)
1910s to 1950s – Galvanized Steel and Orangeburg sewer pipe (a soft tar-,wood-fiber based product) (Obsolete)
1970s to present. ABS and PVC Plastic pipe is used for sewer drainage. There have been issues relating to the use of the wrong type of glue and improper installation practices that have resulted in failure of the system.
Other Info:
Hire a professional to check the sewer line to the street. Taking the time to have a video camera run through the sewer line will alert you to any potential problems and
avoid a costly – and messy – project in the future.
There are a few other things to check to ensure the plumbing is in optimal shape:
Are the pipes a collection of different materials? A home with a mixture of galvanized, copper and plastic pipe is usually a sign that minimal repairs have
been made and re-pipe could required sooner than later.
Check the size of the main water supply pipe. Does it allow extra pressure required for added plumbing fixtures?
If adding another bathroom is on your list of remodeling projects, it is important to check the size of the floor joists in addition to the size of the water pipes. In some
cases, the floor joists are not large enough to allow for drilling holes to run the drain pipes through from an upper floor.
Heating
Energy Source/Heating Type
When To Upgrade?
Impact of Upgrades on the Home
Aged coal conversion equipment is functionally obsolete, but often found in operation.
Discuss gravity (left) and steam systems operation
How many have seen one of these?
Describe operation
Consider cost of insulation removal when system upgrades are needed.
Environmental Issues
Lead (Paint and piping)
Mold (testing and remediation)
Asbestos (testing and remediation)
UST (Identification, testing, and removal)
Water (Quantity and quality)
Mold in basement and attic.
Discuss cause and remedy.
Oil pump, lines with filters (sometimes just cut off lines located in basement)
Oil fill and vent piping in yard (this tank is beneath the driveway – cost to remove?)
Well equipment in basement, non-typical configuration. (Well is actually located beneath driveway)
Sanitary issues with this configuration, potential for pollutants. (What if pesticides are used for insects or rodents?)
Would a well contractor install new equipment in this manner?
Insulation/Ventilation
When to Add and How
What Type is Present?
What is the affect on the Home?
A variety of insulation materials can be found, some seldom seem, (Balsam Wool) speak to their long term effectiveness.
Some on the disclosure form, (UFFI) usually not identified by owners as they are unaware of what they have in the home.
Vermiculite insulation. Does it contain asbestos? Discuss potential current and future installation issues
Will the venting system work? Will it leak, or will it create a problem (like ice dams, mold, excessive heat)
Discuss ideal insulation and venting conditions in an attic above the living space, and in a cape style home with knee walls.
Let’s review a few of the reasons an Inspection for an antique home will take longer.
What's it all mean?
Dry laid fieldstone, post and beam framing, hewn oak and chestnut, purlins, summer beams, chimney girts, chimney cradles, center posts, powder post beetles, beehive ovens...what's it all mean?
Actually there's lots more: steam traps, sight glasses, knob and tube, s traps, brass supplies, lead waste, flue liners, etc. etc. - what's it all mean? It's all part of antique home inspections, and where applicable should be explained.
Often what is construed to be a problem is not abnormal, and can be solved with minimal effort.
An interested client should be able to engage in dialogue with his home inspector in the course of an inspection and come away with a full understanding of the workings of his or her house - the first step to making it a cherished home.
Walk through material variety and installation practices.
Discuss care and maintenance of these systems
Which roof will take longer to inspect? New slate or 100+ year old materials (inset)
Many existing slate roofs in the United States are more than a century old, and may continue to function well for another century.
What goes wrong with slate roofs? (Typically, problems with a slate roof can be traced to one of four factors)
All slate is stone, but not all slate is the same.
Flashings fail.
People walking on slate roofs damage them.
Bad workmanship plagues many.
All slate is stone, but not all slate is the sameSome slate varieties are softer than others and do not last as long as the harder (S1) types. Softer S2 or S3 slates become flaky and crumbly when they reach the end of their effective lives, which could be as soon as 55 years, but more likely around 80-100 years. Older homes in the U.S. are likely to have one or more of the following types of slate on them:
Vermont "sea green," unfading green, mottled green and purple, gray/black, purple;
New York red;
Pennsylvania Bangor black, Chapman black, various other black slates from the Lehigh-Northampton slate region;
Pennsylvania/Maryland Peach Bottom black;
Georgia gray/black;
Maine black; and Virginia black slate.
When flashings failEven if a roof is made of long-lasting slate, the metal flashings can wear out and leak before the slate wears out.
Older flashings are often made from terne-coated steel, which is steel coated with a lead/tin combination, also erroneously (but commonly) called "tin." Terne-coated steel must be painted regularly to avoid corrosion.
Copper flashings (either plain copper or lead-coated) were used primarily on institutions and upscale residences; sometimes, sheet lead flashings were used on older buildings, especially around plumbing vent pipes.
The "tin" flashings can last 90 years or longer if kept painted. Copper flashings, ironically, because they are typically not painted, will begin to corrode, pit and leak in about 60 to 70 years in areas of high wear, such as valleys. For this reason, older copper flashings should be painted in order to extend their effective lives.People don't realize that walking on slate roofs damages themExperienced slaters work on slate roofs using hook ladders.
Walking on a slate roof will definitely crack slates, which can later, after a freeze/thaw cycle or other environmental pressure, break apart.
Bad workmanship plagues many a slate roofOne of the most serious problems facing older slate roofs today, and a cause of many leaks, is bad work.
Slate roof owners pay good money to have their roofs abused, then they have to pay more good money to have them repaired correctly.
Abused roofs include the ones that are walked on by installers, the ones that are face-nailed, tarred, repaired with non-matching slates, coated, or reflashed incorrectly. It is improper to tar or coat the surfaces of slate roofs, or to use surface tar for repairs. The extraordinary life expectancy of slateThe general rule is, "If the slate is still good, the roof should be repaired or restored."
The slate is still good if the exposed surface is smooth, free of pervasive delamination, flaking or other signs of obvious deterioration, no matter how old.
When slates are broken or missingIt is not uncommon for a century-old slate roof to have 50 or more slates fail from simple attrition. Slate is a natural stone and some may contain faults or hairline cracks and may eventually break here and there on the roof.
What maintenance requirements will I experience as a home owner, with what frequency, and who will do them?
Describe construction details…
Under-built structures (by current standards) are fairly typical and many are quite serviceable.
The addition of these vertical supports must be considered when inspecting the attic and areas below, like ceilings
Added systems that may/may not have been seamlessly incorporated into the property also take additional time to evaluate and explain findings and corrective action
Left – poorly designed and detailed addition
Right – a multi-step configuration designed to create a “pond” at the homes entry.
What are you looking at? What do you see? Are you okay down there?
How long will the inspection take…
How long will the findings explanation take…
Where do I put the nail to hang a picture?
Describe the process of producing lath (and the reason this photo was selected)
Riven lath (left) is the stronger forerunner to sawn lath, as it was traditionally split with the grain from chestnut, oak, or similar hardwoods.
Why did the plumber install the waste vent here?
What would be done today?
How long does it take the client to understand what is happening in the home?
What systemic upgrades should they consider, and what can happen if they don’t?
Left – sink with separate faucets. Scald issue?
Right – Tub with backflow potential (also, there is no overflow)
And finally, you’ll find “Just plain weird stuff”
Basement “smoker” built of masonry with interior access to the chimney - notice the flue pipe above from the heating equipment (furnace on left out of view) this is a single flue chimney – what are you smoking your food with? Oil flue gases?
Hanging masonry chimney, tastefully stucco covered and ready for your finishing touches
Left - an early gas dryer
Right - a central vacuum system
Look at the size of these systems – compare to objects in the rooms
It’s not a “real” dog
I guess the homeowner wanted to move the radiator, but didn't want to spend time or money relocating the pipe and had no concept of steam dynamics. This radiator must bang like the dickens. Maybe that's why the valve was in the off position
What’s in the foreground? (Shallow Well)
What’s in the background? (Privy)
How close do you want them to be?
Foil tape works just as good as flashing!
The aged oil tank system and creative maintenance program
Missing mechanical vent
Toilet framing support is over rated any way.
Creative termite repair – a whole bunch of wood filler. (Damage visible at bottom and end)
Sometimes things are just wrong.
(photo depicts support system added beneath an mid 19th century fireplace and floor framing system)
How many posts and jacks should we need?
Linoleum flooring used as roofing material.
Cracked cast iron waste line in basement
Improper modification of a service panel (Other than the obvious, this is supposed to be a fire rated enclosure)
Well head (old style, non-sanitary) below grade level.
Should be 6” minimum, preferably 12” above grade.
We often see devices like this, some are glass – frequently found in basement and attic locations.
Carbon Tetrachloride – A known Carcinogen, should be treated as hazardous waste.
Believed to be a cancer causing agent primarily linked to kidney and liver disease, banned in the U.S in 1970
Previously used in fire extinguishers, dry cleaning products, refrigerants and fumigants.
Yes, this one is real!
Good information to use as a starting point to become knowledgeable of vintage homes
Know your historic style – Purchase a good book on Antique Home Styles
Know the date or period – Cite only those things which you are sure of, don’t rely upon information whose origin can’t be confirmed
Describe the elements accurately – Study the guides and handouts you’ve received and source out others as well
Research the style to know what was unique about it – Each period is distinctly different for the others, focus on those details
Know the style(s) of the house – if there is more than one style, or you are unsure, defer to an expert
Start at the front façade to show it – point out some of the features of the home to help the client appreciate what a wonderful home it is and demonstrate your skills, a real credibility boost!
Never end up in the basement – Most basements in older homes are the least favorite part of a perspective homebuyer, they will have an opportunity to spend time in the basement and learn about the structure during the purchase of the home
Prepare buyer to be realistic – Gauging their understanding of the architectural significance of the home is the best way to help them understand the specific needs of the structure over time
Set expectations that the house is a work in progress – Wood framed and sided structures require predictable maintenance, repair and improvements over time
Exploring the house and it’s history:
If the house has been inventoried by the State Register of Historic Places, contact the Connecticut Historical Commission.
If conducting your own research, consult the local library and historical society for the location of archival material in your community.
Maps, letters, manuscripts, period newspapers, census data, city directories, historic photos, and genealogical records are often housed in central locations.
Land records can be used to trace the properties chain of ownership, and may contain information regarding mortgages, wills and increased resale values which can aid in dating the structure.
Probate Court Records may contain inventories which describe and appraise a house and it’s contents.
Analyzing building materials and construction techniques provide clues to it’s history. Look at nail types, wood milling and framing techniques. And evidence of changed hardware.
Try locating former residents and/or their descendents for information, photographs and memorabilia.
Double check any findings and confirm myth’s or claims regarding the properties or inhabitants past(s)
Hire a professional Historian to research the homes’ past. Contact the Connecticut Trust for Historic Preservation for a list of researchers
Other Info:
There may be parts of your home that are not up to current code but did meet the building codes at the time they were built.
For example: If the client decides to convert your attic to a living space, if the current stairs meet grandfathered-in requirements,
you may leave them untouched or make minor adjustments by adding a railing or adding additional headroom. However, as soon as you touch it, structurally you must
bring it up to current code.
It is also a good idea to check out city records on the home. If it is on the market as a two story home because it has a finished upstairs, but on city records it is shown
as a 1 story with an unfinished attic, then the upstairs needs to be brought up to current code if remodeled. Insufficient structural elements may need to be
addressed.
There is a strong likelihood that current structural elements will be insufficient and could need to be addressed and can cause a significant chain
reaction of other items that need to be taken care of.
How Much Will it Cost?
There are so many variables that need to be considered and prior to home ownership and a professional design, it cannot be determined. Keep in mind,
that it is never “just” anything with an old home.
We do suggest that you take several things into consideration when you are investing in a home and considering future remodeling projects:
Do you anticipate living in the home for longer than five years? This is important because it helps prioritizing.
Is it being remodeled for you or resale or both? Put another way, are you designing a space just for you or what the general public might want based
on the real estate market or both?
What will the neighborhood bear? If you are considering resale it is important to remodel the main parts of the house rather than adding features that
might be more personal.
What will the house bear? There is such a thing as over-remodeling so you want to be sure the general style of the house can support a high-end kitchen
for example.
Do determine whether the house is located in an historic district – Consult with the local Commission
Never tell a buyer they can do whatever they want on exterior – See above
Refer buyer to local building inspector with questions – Municipal Inspectors can be an excellent resource for local information.
Avoid Myths and Old Wives Tales - Inaccurate information will only reflect poorly on you. Insist on documentation and defer to experts when disclosures are unsupported
Try not to embellish the listing with stories unless they are documented
If there are reported ghosts or apparitions, make sure they are disclosed
Dealing with Zoning Regulations – Don’t make assumptions, go to those “in the know” for questions regarding:
Local Historic Districts (Historic Commissions) by town
Deeded “Covenants” (restrictions)
Look at credentials – How many inspections of vintage homes have they performed?
Professional Associations – Are they members of an association that provides education to them
Ask about past antique home inspections – hands on experience, how long have they been around these homes and what types/styles?
Ability to communicate effectively with client – In both written and verbal communications. Do they articulate complex thoughts well, the client will likely need to consult them in the future ownership of the home.
Understands historical construction practices to help determine age – specifically the areas we have discussed today.
Other info:
Both the excitement and the apprehensions of buying an antique home should be met with an authoritative and thorough evaluation of the structure.
Because an antique home's construction is significantly different from that of new homes, and often contains a diversity of alterations and mechanical upgrades that span many generations, the scope of experience required of a Home Inspector is unique.
Without a full understanding of the nature of early construction, issues of importance may be significantly misdiagnosed, or indeed may not be recognized at all.
At Tiger Home Inspections we recognize the importance of providing our clients with inspectors who have long term exposure to antique homes and are familiar with any challenges that they may present.