4. Importance of Coastal Health
● Beaches, dunes and bluffs are natural buffers between land and sea
● A healthy shoreline provides several key features to the coastal area
○ Land protection from storm surges
○ Reduction of erosion
○ Filter for land runoff
○ Habitats for many coastal flora and fauna species
○ A beautiful and lively landscape
Beach Dune Bluff
5. Area of Interest: South
Carolina’s Long Bay
Coast
Charleston
https://locatesc.com/Search/PropertyDetails?propertyI
D=5a202ee5-0cdb-e911-b5e9-000d3a12f430
6. The Issue
● Beach renourishment and revitalization
costs the US $150 million annually
● Nourishment practices often disrupt
bottom cover due to dredging
● Erosion in nearly every other
circumstance is controlled by
preventative measures rather than
restorative measures
● Most permanent structures that are
implemented for erosion prevention wind
up having a negative effect
7. Human Interaction
Climate Change
Erosion by Wind/Water
● Overfishing
● Nutrient and sediment input
● Pollution
● Introduction of exotic species
● Habitat destruction through
dredging
● Resource exploitation
● Rise in seawater levels
● Habitat reduction
● Introduction of exotic species
(species finding new habitats
within desired temp. range)
● Loss of surface soil, carbon
and soil biota
● Sedimentation of streams and
watercourses
Unhealthy Coastline
8. Impact of Humans
overfishing
Human Interaction
Dredging
Introduction of
Invasive Species
Modification of
Coastal Habitats
Modification of Coastal habitats
● Construction on coastlines can
disrupt local species
Soil and Nutrient runoff
● Pollution runoff changes the
nutrient levels in the water
Dredging
● Additional soil can suffocate
seagrasses and change the
shoreline
Introducing Invasive Species
● Reduce biodiversity and kill-off
vulnerable species
Overfishing
● Removes species at a rate faster
than they can replenish
Human Interaction
● Inexperienced divers can disrupt
coastal habitats
https://www.epa.sa.gov.au/soe_2013/main/coast-3-what-are-the-pressures.html
10. Groins
● Shoreline structure perpendicular to the
beach
● Traps longshore flow of sand
● Maintains sand at desired site but transfers
erosion down the beach
● Perpetuating cycle
Updraft
Downdraft
11. Case Study: Groins
● Gopalpur Port on the East Coast of India
● 530 meter Southern groin implemented in
2008
● 370 meter Northern groin
● Beach profile, shoreline change, and
sedimentology were monitored every month
for a year
● Erosion observed north of the northern groin
and south of the southern groin
12. Beach Nourishment (Beach Fill)
● Deposit sand on beach to widen
accessible area
● No permanent structures
● Costly, temporary solution
● May increase erosion rates
● Disrupts benthic life in turbid
waters
● Increases coastal shelf which
endangers swimmers
13. Case Study: Beach Nourishment
● Wrightsville, North Carolina
● 3 million cubic feet of sand pumped onto
14,000 ft of beach
● Was restored in 1966 and again in 1970
● By 1976, the beach had become very steep
and was manually flattened
● However, by 1977, the beach had become
steep again
● 8 total restorations performed since.
14. Jetties
● Man-made structures built on either side
of coastal inlet
● Allow channel to stay open for
navigation
● Longer than groins creating larger
updraft and smaller downdraft of
sediment
● Can become clogged with sand and must
be dredged
15. Case Study: Jetties
● Most famous jetty found at
the Great Salt Lake in Utah
● 1,500 ft long and 15 ft wide
● Created by sculptor Robert
Smithson in 1970
● Would still function if paired
with another
17. UAV and LiDAR
● Light Detection And Ranging (LiDAR)
is a way to collect 3 dimensional data
through the use of UAVs or satellites
● LiDAR remote sensing uses light pulses
and timing to determine distance from
an object
● Can provide an accurate and detailed
map of ground elevation as well as
vegetation cover
18. MIKE21 and MIKE3
MIKE21 models coastal and marine processes two-dimensionally
MIKE3 models coastal and marine processes three-dimensionally
These models work in tandem to simulate:
○ Coastal soil erosion
○ Overland flooding
○ Tidal patterns and predictions
○ Major storm events
They also process momentum, continuity, temp,
Salinity, and density equations
19. Equations Used in MIKE Software
The equilibrium tidal potential 𝜂T
Tidal potential is the potential force that
stretches a body (water) towards or away from
another body’s center of mass (moon) due to a
gravitational gradient. This is used in the MIKE
software when calculating the effect of the tide
on the sediment and erosion potential and is
expressed in tidal force per unit mass.
20. Suspended Sediment
Vs - suspended sediment volume
eB - suspension efficiency
ef - suspension efficiency
DB - dissipation rate due to breaking
Df - average dissipation rate
s - specific gravity
wf - fall velocity
Ps - sediment suspension probability
Suspended sediment is a defining factor in coastal erosion
and can be modeled by the following:
Vs is a measurement of suspended sediment volume per
unit area. MIKE software uses this calculation in
sediment transport simulations.
21. Recommendations for
Long Beach
● Using more advanced mapping
such as UAV and LiDAR
● Using more models
● Using more advanced models
● Pay attention to the specific
needs of the coastline in question
22. Conclusion
● Prevent > restore
● Using improved modeling and mapping
software can assist in finding the right
solution for specific circumstances
● Unexplored options, such as vegetative
management, could be a path to pursue
http://www.beachapedia.org/Shoreline_Structures
When a groin in built, locations down the coast experience increased erosion rates and build more groins to compensate
Good at protecting designated area but creates more erosion at other locations
https://www.jcronline.org/doi/abs/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-10-00045.1?journalCode=coas
If sand is not of the same size/quality, may increase erosion
Water near shore disrupted and filled with suspended sand and sediment which harms wildlife
Increases dropoff which puts swimmers in danger
Jetties are large, man-made piles of boulders or concrete that are built on either side of a coastal inlet. Whereas groins are built to change the effects of beach erosion, jetties are built so that a channel to the ocean will stay open for navigation purposes. They are also built to prevent rivermouths and streams from meandering naturally.
Jetties completely interrupt or redirect the longshore current. Just as a groin accumulates sand on the updrift side, so do jetties. The major difference is that jetties are usually longer than groins and therefore create larger updrift beaches at the expense of the smaller downdrift beaches.
On East Coast barrier islands, ocean tidal inlets migrate naturally with the longshore current. A jetty system will permanently disrupt the equilibrium of the beach. This may seriously affect the tidal circulation and the health of the wetlands between the barrier islands and the mainland.
Inlets with short jetties that don't quite reach the surf will clog up with sand. The sand must be dredged on a regular basis. A "sand by-passing" system may be built to pump sand around the jetties. The sand pumping may come from within the inlet or from the updrift beach. These methods are expensive and must be maintained indefinitely.
For Long Bay, South Carolina, we recommend that better satellite mapping technology be used to get an idea of what erosion is happening and what the overall land shape looks like. We also recommend that the stakeholders of Long Bay look more into modeling software, especially some of the newer softwares that Ceci will tell you about in a second. A lot of these newer softwares have just recently come out and they are advancing every year, and continually updating your technology is a great place to start for reducing erosion. We also recommend modeling more frequently to get a holistic understanding of how permanent structures will affect the specific coastline that needs attention.
Although beach nourishment is the primary method of combating coastal erosion, it is not necessarily the most effective one. Preventional methods are always preferred to restorative ones, so we recommend using the best technology available to determine what preventative methods will be most effective for the given circumstances. We recommend utilizing UAV and LiDAR mapping to understand coastal erosion and erosive forces, and using improved modelling software to see how structures will prevent/enhance erosion. We also recommend exploring some new options, such as installing vegetation. Vegetation is consistently combative toward erosion, so it would make sense that it would be effective against coastal erosion as well.
Prevent>restore