FABRIC STUDY IN INDIA

1. TEXTILE
Name – Pankaj Kushwah
Subject – Advance workshop
Semester – 7th
Submitted to – Ar. Shanta das

2. What is textile?
• Textile is a fabric (Woven or knitted) made from yarn.
• History of Textile The history of textile is almost as old as that of human civilization and as time moves on the history of
textile has further enriched itself. In the 6th and 7th century BC, the oldest recorded indication of using fiber comes with
the invention of flax and wool fabric at the excavation of Swiss lake inhabitants. In India, the culture of silk was
introduced in 400AD, while spinning of cotton traces back to 3000BC.
• In China, the discovery and consequent development of sericulture and spin silk methods got initiated at 2640 BC while
in Egypt the art of spinning linen and weaving developed in 3400 BC . The discovery of machines and their widespread
application in processing natural fibers was a direct outcome of the industrial revolution of the 18th and 19th centuries
.The discoveries of various synthetic fibers like nylon created a wider market for textile products and gradually led to the
invention of new and improved sources of natural fiber. The development of transportation and communication facilities
facilitated the path of a transaction of localized skills and textile art among various countries.
History of textile

3. What is Knitting?
• Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to
create a textile, or fabric. It is used to create many types
of garments. Knitting may be done by hand or by
machine. Knitting creates stitches loops of yarn in a row,
either flat or in the round (tubular). There are usually
many active stitches on the knitting needle at one time.
Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows
of connected loops that intermesh with the next and
previous rows. As each row is formed, each newly
created loop is pulled through one or more loops from
the prior row and placed on the gaining needle so that
the loops from the prior row can be pulled off the other
needle without unraveling.

4. Different Type Of Textile And their Making Process
1. Cotton
Cotton Known as the most popular material in the world,
cotton is a light, soft natural fabric. The fluffy fiber is extracted
from the seeds of the cotton plant in a process called ginning.
The fiber is then spun into cloth, where it can be woven or
knit.
This fabric is praised for its comfortableness, versatility and
durability. It is hypoallergenic and breathes well, though it
doesn’t dry quickly. Cotton can be found in virtually any type
of clothing: shirts, dresses, underwear. However, it can wrinkle
and shrink.

5. Cotton Manufacturing Process
About three months after planting seeds, the cotton plants flower. They open with white petals that change to yellow, pink
and red, and then fall off. What's left is the cotton boll, which looks like a small, green football. Inside are the cotton fibers
and seeds. The boll gradually turns brown, and the cotton fibers inside grow and expand until they burst open the pod to
expose the fluffy, white cotton.
Different kinds of cotton picking or stripping machines can be used to twist the cotton from the plants. They use forced air to
toss the cotton into large baskets.
Once the cotton bolls are picked, they are then delivered directly to the ginning factory by truck. This is where the cotton is
fed into the ginning machine that separates the cotton fibres from the seedpods. This is carried out in order to efficiently
remove any dirt, stems, leaves and linters. In the completion of the cleaning and separating stage of the process, the seeds
are then later refined to create cottonseed oil, the linters are used in the manufacturing of paper and plastics and the cotton
is now referred to as lint cotton as it has been separated from the seed.
2. Ginning
1. Extracting of cotton

6. 3. Cotton spinning
The cotton spinning process is a term that is used to describe the process in which fibres pass through the carding machine
that separates the fibres to become yarn and then eventually be ready to be weaved or knitted.
During this process, the cotton is thoroughly cleaned through a rigorous cleaning process. The fibres are then combed by a
range of machinery and are finally spun to form soft textured yarn. Once the cotton has been transformed into a knitted
cotton fabric it is then put on a truck to be taken to the dyeing factories.
4. Dyeing cotton fabric
The conventional dyeing process is a highly toxic process that requires a lot of water. Throughout the dyeing stage, a lot of
water waste gets generated and instantly becomes infected with toxic heavy metals and pollutants. The toxic chemicals used
in the dyes have a harmful effect on not just the environment but also to the farmers as well as the people living within the
surrounding area. This also has a negative impact on consumers as 80% of the toxic chemicals used in these dyes still
remain in our clothes long after the production process.
However, in organic certified factories only natural dyes are used. This means that the colours used in the dyes come from
elements in nature. Natural dyes require land to grow with ingredients such as indigo, onion shells and turmeric being the
most popular of options. The many reasons as to why natural dyes are used less compared to popular synthetic dyes are
because natural dyes lack the vibrancy of synthetic dyes. Once the cotton has been dyed it is then sent to the garment
factory.

7. 5. Garment construction and distribution
Once the cotton has been prepped and dyed it is then ready for
the final stage, the construction of the garment itself. The
garment is created in a series of operations, with employees
working long hours to produce the garment. At this stage, the
design teams are heavily involved and discuss sizes, cuts, and
colors with the workers. The workers then cut the finished cotton
cloth to the required designs and piece everything together
through stitching on the industrial sewing machines.
Once the garment is completed they are collected and are then
sent for further cleaning and pressing. The garments are then
packaged and are stored to be distributed to the warehouse.
Once at the warehouse the garments are then sent out to stores
worldwide for customers to purchase.

8. 2. Chiffon
Chiffon is a weaving process that produces a lightweight,
plain weave fabric with a slight shine. The chiffon weave
results in small puckers that make the fabric a little rough
to the touch. These puckers are created through the use
of s-twist and z-twist crepe yarns, which are twisted
counter-clockwise and clockwise respectively. Crepe
yarns are also twisted much tighter than standard yarns.
The yarns are then woven in a plain weave, which means
a single weft thread alternates over and under a single
warp thread. The sheer fabric can be woven from a variety
of textile types, both synthetic and natural, like silk, nylon,
rayon, or polyester.

9. 3. Crepe
Crepe is a lightweight, twisted plain-woven fabric with a
rough, bumpy surface that doesn’t wrinkle. It is often
made from cotton, silk, wool or synthetic fibers, making it
a versatile fabric. Due to this, crepe is usually called after
its fiber; for example, crepe silk or crepe chiffon.
Crepe is often used in suit and dressmaking since it’s
soft, comfortable and easy to work with. For example,
georgette is a type of crepe fabric often used in designer
clothes. Crepe is also used in blouses, pants, scarves,
shirts and skirts.

11. 4. Denim
Another type of fabric is denim. Denim is a woven cotton fabric made
from entwined cotton wrap yarn and white cotton stuffing yarn. It is
often known for its vivid texture, sturdiness, durability and
comfortableness.
Denim is mostly dyed with indigo to create blue jeans, but it is also
used for jackets and dresses.

13. 5. Lace
Lace is an elegant, delicate fabric made from looped,
twisted or knitted yarn or thread. It was originally made
from silk and linen, but lace is now made with cotton
thread, wool or synthetic fibers. There are two main
elements to lace: the design and the ground fabric, which
holds the pattern together.
Lace is considered a luxury textile, as it takes time and
expertise to create the open-weave design and web-like
pattern. The soft, transparent fabric is often used to accent
or embellish clothing, especially with bridal gowns and
veils, though it can be found in shirts and nightgowns.

15. 6. Linen
The next fabric is linen, which is one of the oldest materials
known to humankind. Made from natural fibers, this strong,
lightweight fabric comes from the flax plant, which is
stronger than cotton. The flax strands are spun into yarn,
which is then blended with other fibers.
Linen is absorbent, cool, smooth and durable. It is machine-
washable, but it needs regular ironing, as it creases easily.
Though it can be used in clothing, including suits, jackets,
dresses, blouses and trousers, linen is mostly used in
drapes, tablecloths, bedsheets, napkins and towels.

16. 7. Silk
Known as the world’s most luxurious natural fabric, silk is
another soft, elegant fabric choice with a smooth touch and
shimmering look. Silk comes from the silkworm’s cocoon, which
are found in China, South Asia and Europe.
It is the most hypoallergenic, durable, strongest natural fabric,
though it is difficult to clean and delicate to handle; many fabric
weaves tighten or pucker when washed, so it’s best to hand
wash or dry clean silk. Like lace, satin is expensive due to the
time-consuming, delicate process or turning the silk thread into
yarn.
Silk is mostly used in wedding and evening gowns, shirts, suits,
skirts, lingerie, ties and scarves. The two most popular types
are Shantung and Kashmir silk.

17. 8. Velvet
Another different type of fabric is the soft, luxurious velvet, which has
mostly been associated with royalty due to its rich, opulent finishing
and complex production process. This heavy, shiny woven warp pile
fabric has a smooth pile effect on one side. The textile’s quality is
determined by the pile tuft’s density and the way they are anchored to
the base fabric.
Velvet can be made from cotton, linen, cool, silk, nylon or polyester,
making it a versatile material that is either inelastic or stretchy. It is
often used in blouses, shirts, coats, skirts, evening wear and
outerwear.

18. 9. Wool
This natural fiber comes from sheep, goat, llama or alpaca fleece.
It can be knitted or woven.
Wool is often noted for being hairy and itchy, though it keeps the
body warm and is durable and long-lasting. It is also wrinkle-free
and resistant to dust and wear and tear. This fabric can be a bit
expensive, as it needs to be hand-washed or dry-cleaned. Wool is
mostly used in sweaters, socks and gloves.
Types of wool include tweed, Cheviot fabric, cashmere and Merino
wool; Cheviot fabric is made from Cheviot sheep, cashmere is
made from cashmere and pashmina goats and Merino wool is
made from Merino sheep.

19. The production of wool begins with the shearing of wool-bearing animals. Some animals bear wool once per year, and
others bear wool multiple times throughout the year.
Next, the shorn wool is cleaned and sorted into bales. There are a variety of ways to remove the greasy lanolin in raw wool,
but most large wool producers use chemical catalysts for this process.
Once the wool fibers are clean and sorted, they are carded, which is the process of making the fibers into long strands.
These carded strands are then spun into yarn, and after a final washing, this yarn can be woven into garments and other
types of woolen textiles.
Lastly, the finished textiles may be exposed to a variety of post-production processes to develop certain attributes. Fulling,
for instance, is the immersion of a wool textile in water to make the fibers interlock, and crabbing is the process of
permanently setting this interlock. Lastly, wool producers may decate their products for shrink-proofing purposes, and rarely,
they may also dye their finished wool products.
How wool fabric made?

20. Processes involved in textile manufacturing
1. Fibre production
All textiles are made up of fibres that are arranged in different ways to create the desired strength, durability, appearance and
texture. The fibres can be of countless origins, but can be grouped into four main categories. Natural fibres, with the exception
of silk, have a relatively short fibre length, measured in centimetres. Silk and man-made fibres have on the other hand very
long fibre lengths (filaments) ranging from hundreds of metres to kilometres long.
2. Yarn production
When the fibre has been harvested or produced the next step is to spin the fibres into a yarn. It is easy to believe that this
step, which is a mechanical one, uses no chemicals. But in order to increase the strength of the fibre, increase fibre cohesion
and reduce friction during the spinning process, spinning oils are added.
3. Fabric production
The core of textile manufacture is fabric production. Fabrics can be created in many different ways, the most common being
weaving, knitting or through production of non-woven fabrics. To prevent the yarn from breaking during these processes, it is
important to strengthen the yarn and reduce friction. Sizing chemicals and lubricants are therefore added.
• Weaving
• Knitting
• Non-woven

21. 4. Dyeing and printing
During dyeing and printing both hazardous chemicals and dyestuffs are used. Dyes used for dyeing, can also be used for
printing, but must then undergo the same fixation and washings steps as after the dyeing process. The most common way to
print a fabric in full width is to use pigment prints, where the pigments stick to a surface using polymeric resin or a binder. No
washing processes are needed. For garment printing , plastisol printing is very common. The PVC-based paste often contains
hazardous chemicals, such as phthalates.
Dyeing can take place in several steps when processing the textile. It can be done when spinning the synthetic or man-made
fibres, as loose natural or regenerated fibers and in the form of yarns or fabrics. Garment dyeing is also common.
Full-width printing is carried out on pre-treated fabrics, but it is also possible to put a print on a garment or manufactured textile
product by screen or transfer printing. Digital printing is another method.
There are other printing techniques as discharge and resist print using dyes and chemicals. This includes washing to get rid of
surplus dyes and residues.
• Dyeing
• Print
• Washing

22. 5. Finishing treatments
This step of the process is all about adding special technical properties or an aesthetic appeal to the finished fabric. Depending
on the properties desired, such as flame retardance, enhanced water resistance, antibacterial treatment, protective coatings or
specific fashion treatments, a diverse range of chemicals are used. Some examples are given below.
• Handle modification
• Crease resistance (anti-wrinkling, easy care)
• Antistatic treatment
• Anti-pilling
• Antibacterial/anti-odor treatment
• Water repellance
• Oil/soil repellance
• Flame retardance
• (Protective) coatings
• Laminated films and membranes
• Garment treatments for fashion

23. Role of textile designer?
• Textile designers draw new motifs, create multiple color ways of existing designs, and arrange layouts in the CAD (aka
computer-aided design) to come up with the best composition for that product.
• Trend research is a big part of any textile designers’ job. Competitive research can involve starting at the market and
seeing what competitors are showing in their trend displays.
• Textile designers are typically heavily involved in both setup and the actual market, which means you could be spending a
week or more away from home just for this purpose. Set up involves styling display areas and arranging products around
the showroom for a beautiful presentation. During the actual market, textile designers may be expected to interact with
customers and assist sales reps with product information and explaining design and technical details.
Textile designers plan, create, and execute the crafting of original designs and finished products from textile materials. They
devise the creative concept, sketch drawings and assemble fabric samples and swatches, and oversee the production of the
designs. They often work in close collaboration with other departments, including sales and production, and may formulate
presentations including concept illustrations and samples. They stay informed of market trends and consumer preferences.
They establish and enforce quality control standards.

24. Role of an interior designer in the textile design ?
interior designers are people who create designs and customize fabric designs accordingly that are used for home
furnishing and building interiors. Textile design plays a very important role in interior design.

25. THANKYOU!