Cosmeceuticals are topically applied products with medicinal benefits for the skin. They fall between cosmetics and drugs. Some key points:
- Cosmeceuticals were coined in 1980 and contain ingredients that protect against skin damage.
- The FDA does not recognize cosmeceuticals as a separate category - a product is either a drug, cosmetic, or combination.
- Common cosmeceutical ingredients include antioxidants, peptides, retinoids, and exfoliants which treat signs of aging.
- Safety testing evaluates irritation potential, phototoxicity and other factors to ensure cosmeceuticals are safe for long-term use. Instrumental methods objectively measure skin
2. A cosmeceutical is an ingredient with medicinal
properties, which manifests beneficial topical
actions and provides protection against
degenerative skin conditions
The term cosmeceutical was
coined in 1980 by the
dermatologist Albert kligman
3. The FD&C Act does not recognize
any such category
as "cosmeceuticals." A product can
be a drug, a cosmetic, or a
combination of both, but the term
"cosmeceutical" has no meaning
under the law.
Cosmetics COSMECUTICALS
4. "articles intended to be rubbed, poured,
sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or
otherwise applied to the human body...for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance"
DRUG
"articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure,
mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease"
and "articles (other than food) intended to affect
the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
COSMETICS
According to FD&C Act.
6. A deodorant is a cosmetic but an antiperspirant is a drug
A shampoo is a cosmetic but an antidandruff shampoo is a drug
A suntan product is a cosmetic but a sunscreen product is a drug
A skin exfoliant is a cosmetic but a skin peel is a drug
A skin product to hide acne is cosmetic but an antiacne product is a
drug
A skin moisturizer is a cosmetic but a wrinkle remover is a drug
An antibacterial deodorant soap is a cosmetic but an antibacterial anti-
infective soap is
a drug
A lip softener is a cosmetic but a product for chapped lips is a drug
A toothpaste is a cosmetic but an anticaries toothpaste is drug
A mouthwash is cosmetic but an antigingivitis mouth wash is a drug
7. •Uv protection
•Exfoliants
•Alpha hydroxy acids
Lactic acid
Glycolic acid
•Beta hydroxy acids
•Retinoids
•Moisturizers
•Antioxidants
•Peptides
•De-pigmenting agents
List of common ingredient used in cosmeceuticals
8. UVA wavelengths penetrate deeply into the dermis, causing
skin to wrinkle.
UVB radiation is associated with many skin cancers.
The SPF number on sun blockers only applies to UVB
protection and has no connection with UVA protection. A SPF
number of 30 is recommended for daily use.
Higher numbers do not proportionately increase protection.
•Uv protection
•Exfoliants
Exfoliants remove dead cells and the outer
layers of thickened skin, encouraging skin
turnover.
•Alpha hydroxy acids
Softens fine wrinkles, lightens pigmentation
spots, generally tightens and improves skin
texture. Makes skin look healthier and
more radiant
9. •Retinoids
Treats mild to moderate acne and photo-
damaged skin, removes dead surface
cells, Claims to build collagen, regenerate
the skin’s elasticity and
•Antioxidants
•Moisturizers
Moisturizers smooth the surface of the
skin, lubricate its outer layers, and lock in
moisture.
Antioxidants, the ingredients meant to
defend against free radical damage
Vitamin A & C
Resveratrol
Green tea
Co-enzyme Q-10
Algae
10. peptides that may stimulate skin
metabolism and repair, while others
may inhibit hyperpigmentation,
slow the breakdown of collagen
•Peptides
Eg: Argireline
11. Aging results from cumulative damage to tissues
that overwhelm the body's natural ability to repair
them. The tell tale signs of aging on the skin include
discoloration, wrinkles, and texture loss
These effects result from
•Genetically programmed chronological aging
•Photoaging - sun exposure
•Environmental and lifestyle factors –
damage by chemicals, pollutants, smoking,
etc.
Why Does Skin Age??
12. Certain synthetic organic substances or sunscreens have
molecular structures that are capable of "filtering out" the
harmful UV rays by mechanisms including absorption,
reflection or diffusion.
Examples include avobenzone, sulisobenzone, aminobenzoic
acid, titanium oxide, zinc oxide and others. Such ingredients
appear in the FDA monograph on sunscreen agents.
Sunscreens are regulated as over the counter drugs by the
FDA.
The efficacy of sunscreens is measured as SPF (sun
protection factor).
What are Sunscreens?
13. UV damage is manifested as
• sunburn,
• skin discoloration
•texture loss.
UV rays also trigger skin aging through:
Free radical reactions and oxidative stress.
Increased activity of enzymes such as collagenase
and elastase that are catalyzed by metal ions.
Effect of UV Rays
Photoaging - sun exposure
14. The results are:
Abnormal cross linking of Collagen
fibers
Scar tissue build up and visible
wrinkles and skin discoloration
Ravages of chronological aging are
accelerated
15. Drug Name Concentration % Absorbance
Aminobenzoic acid up to 15 UVB
Avobenzone 2-3 UVA I
Cinoxate up to 3 UVB
Dioxybenzone II up to 3 UVB, UVA I & II
Homosalate up to 15 UVB
Menthyl anthranilate up to 5 UVA II
Octyl methoxycinnamate up to 7.5 UVB
Octisalate up to 5 UVB
Oxybenzone up to 5 UVB
Padimate O up to 8 UVB
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid up to 4 UVB
Sulisobenzone up to 10 UVB, UVA II
Titanium dioxide 2-25 Physical
Trolamine salicylate up to 12 UVB
Zinc oxide 2-20 Physical
The sunscreens listed in the FDA OTC monograph
16. Several natural extracts protect the skin from the
damaging effects of UV rays:
•Tetrahydrocurcuminoids
•SabiWhite
•Green tea Extract
•Sesame antioxidants
•Umbelliferin
•Xylosin
•Rosemary extract
•Rosmarinic acid
•Lupeol
•Arjunolic acid
17. •In vitro testing
•Cumulative Irritation testing
•Repeat Insult Patch Tests (RIPT)
•Sensitization
•Ocular Irritation
•Facial Sting
•Phototoxicity
•Photoallergy
•Comedogenicity
•Acnegenicity
Product Safety Testing
Testing needs are determined by the company
marketing the product .May include:
18. Dermal irritation: is
defined as the production
of “reversible damage of
the skin following the
application of a test
substance for up to 4
hours”. Tests used to
study dermal irritation:
1. EPISKIN™ human skin
model.
2. 2. EpiDerm™ human
skin model.
3. 3. PREDISKIN™
human skin model. 4.
Pig ear test.
19. Examples of Instrumental Measurements
Parameter Instrument
Moisturization Conductance/Impedance
Skin barrier function TEWL(Transepidermal Water Loss)
Skin texture Topography
Skin elasticity Elastometer
Skin thickness Ultrasound
Blood flow Laser Doppler
Sebum (oiliness) Sebumeter
Color Chromameter
21. •Safe for long-terms use
•Promote beauty throught health and wellness of skin
•cosmeceuticals with natural ingredients are preferred
Advantage of cosmeceuticals
22. 1) Textbook of Industrial Pharmacy: Delivery Systems, &
Cosmetics & Herbal Technology. by Shobha Rani Hiremath,
Universities Press. Page no. 291- 301
2) Food & Drug Administration (FDA)
http://www.fda.gov/
3) Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA)
http://www.ctfa.org
4) Thornfeldt C. Cosmeceuticals containing herbs: fact, fiction, and
future. Dermatol Surg. Jul 2005;31(7 Pt 2):873‐80;
REFERENCE
