5. Unpacking the goods Opening and organizing all the new product. Initial thoughts about wire layout and overall product placement were discussed at this time.
6. Amp choice and placement View without the spare tire door cover. The initial plan was to use 3 PBR’s for the install. it was determined that a single amp would make the install much easier, so we went with the P1000X5D. We looked at a few possibilities for where to mount it and decided to put it next to the spare on the drivers side.
7. Power and Remote wiring First step of the install was to fish the power cord from the battery through the firewall into the cabin. The remote wire was then harnessed to the power cord, with one end residing behind the head unit and the other end back by the amp.
9. Positioning new wires After gaining access to the existing wiring behind the head unit, it was time to start placing new wires in the correct position. The speaker cables and RCA’s were harnessed together and one end of this harness was placed with the existing Jeep wiring. One end of the new remote wire was also at this spot. After all the new wire/cable ends were placed up front, special care was taken to tuck the length of these wire/cables behind carpeting and trim panels all the way from the front of the cabin to the back of the Jeep.
12. Finishing wire layout After all the wires/cables were positioned we began to connect these with the original factory wiring. It was during this step that we realized only 3 speaker wires were harnessed together instead of 4….thanks Chris!
14. Wiring the amp After all the wires were in the correct position it was time to wire the amp. This was done to test if the setup was working properly before putting everything in its final spot.
15. Final Amp position and wiring connections All the wire connections were made and we tested to see if everything working …and it was. So we then mounted the amp to a painted MDF panel.
17. Placing the Installing the 6x9 speakers in the doors was fairly simple. We removed the old factory speakers and replaced them with the new ones. The only modification that needed to be done was grinding the mounting tabs to fit the existing profile in the door.
18. Building the sub boxes Working with the space under the front seats limited how big we could make the boxes. Using a “T” shaped box we were able to get the volume up to 0.60 sq. ft. Not quite the 0.75 sq. ft. which is recommended, but very close. Because of the unique shape, fit testing under the front seat was required as the boxes were being built.
19. Building the sub boxes Carpeting the boxes was a little tricky given the unique MDF shape to wrap around.
20. Building the sub boxes Installing the subs and completing the box wiring.
21. Installed sub boxes With both front seats pushed back, the subs are nearly covered. Although not the ideal setup for best sound, this install is clean and hidden well. Installed subwoofer with the front seat all the way forward.
23. Testing the Ported Box As a comparison to the subs under the front seats, we were given a ported box with new prototypes of the latest 12” P1 subs.
