Dynaudio installation in Passat 3CBased on Roy’s descriptions (http://petzold.serveftp.net/Partycentral/Forum/forum3/viewforum.php?f=6)I’ve now also completed my installation of the Dynaudio system in my Passat. I’m very pleased with both thegreat sound and the fact that it has only cost me approx. €800 (amplifier and speakers purchased on eBay)compared to the €4000 it cost on the Danish Passat extras list . Thanks Roy.The entire project has lasted me about 30 hours or so, and I find the result well worth it. But I don’t thinkthis is a one day project to anybody, so be prepared to spend some hours pulling your car apart if you starton this.My initial Car configuration was as follows: - Passat 2006 2.0 TDI Variant Comfortline. - RCD300 radio and 8 VW speakers (standard in Denmark) - Antenna and 4 speaker wires (one signal for each door)As head unit I’ve built in a MFD2 DVD instead of the RCD300, and while at it, I also built in a Nokia CK7Whands-free unit.Since my car already had the antenna built in, I didn’t need to dismantle the C-column or the rear inside ofthe car. I did however have to dismantle the following: - All 4 door covers. - Lower B column cover. - Lower and middle A column cover. - Side entry covers. - Foot well side and top covers. - Radio coverframe. - Climate Control coverframe - Storage drawer below the headlights switchI managed to get all the wiring fitted without removing the glove compartment or the driver’s seat asdescribed by Roy. Depending on how comfortable you are with removing the seat and glove compartment,you may find that easier. Choose what suit you best.Once completed, the result should be this installation:
Installation of antennaIf you don’t have the antenna installed you have install the two antenna amplifiers (3C9 035 552 A = right &3C9 035 552 D = left) in the C-column and fit the antenna cables (2x 000 098 657) along the sides of theunder the side entry covers. I didn’t have to do this, as I had the antenna amplifiers and cables fitted fromthe factory.Replacing the Speakers in the doorsI started out by replacing the speakers in the doors one door at a time. For each door, a plastic cover in thedoor handled must be withdrawn to reveal the screws fixing the cover to the door frame. Removing thosescrews and the ones at the bottom, leaves the door covers to be pulled from the door frame (gently, but withsome force).I had all 8 standard VW speakers fitted from the factory (the additional 2 speakers in the Dynaudio solutionare midrange speakers fitted in the same holes as the front bass speakers). To remove these, I had tocarefully drill out the rivets to remove the speakers. With the speakers removed, I could proceed with addingthe need wiring for the new speakers. I was able to reuse the plugs from the original speakers and theoriginal single set of wires in each door by cutting the wires and connecting them with the new wires.
To fit the wires in the door-connector, you have to disconnect the wire coming from the A or B column andretract the plug into the door and out through the hole where the speakers were removed. When insertingthe needed connectors into the plug make sure to make a note of which positions in the plug you have used.
Once the wires are in place make sure to tape them up with isolating tape, both to protect them from waterin the doors and keep the wires from getting in the way of the windows when lowering them.One thing to remember: Don’t install the new speakers until you have all the new wiring in the door ready.You need the access to the interior of the door when installing the new wires.With the wiring in the door completed, you can fix the speakers in the holes using 4.8 mm x 30 mm poprivets. Since some of the rivets have to be fixed with very little space to the sides of the speaker, I had topurchase a new pop-rivet tool with a head that could be turned horizontally as well as vertically.
Finally connect the plugs in the loudspeakers and fit door covers in the reverse order of the removal.Cabling the interior of the carHaving completed and reassembled the doors, the plugs in the A/B columns had to be equipped with theneeded connectors and all the speaker wiring had to be led to the amplifier position under the drivers (left)seat. I chose not to route the cables under the seats, since I didn’t want to dismantle the seats, and instead Irouted all cabling from the right side of the car along the side of the car to the dashboard and back down theleft side to the amplifier position. I used 1.5 mm single conductor wire for the speakers.When crossing the wires from the right side of the car to the left side of the car (where the amplifier sits) Iremoved the top foot well covers, and fixed the cabling with strips. Be careful when crossing the driver’s footwell not to put the wires in positions where they can obstruct the free movement of the pedals.As suggested by Roy, I drew the power from the left (driver side) interior fuse box. Using a multimeter, Ifound a free position able to connect to constant 12V and added a connector and a 30A fuse. I found aGround connector at the bottom of the A column, and routed both 12V and Ground to the amplifier.Remember to disconnect the (-) from the battery under the hood before doing this part of the installation.
If you are looking to install a MFD2 at the same time, I positioned the GPS under the topside left dashboardusing the access to the underside of the dashboard from the removed storage drawer below the headlightsswitch. This keeps the antenna hidden and the reception has been perfect so far.The 4 signals from the head unit (Front left, Front right, Rear left, Rear right), CAN High and CAN low I tookfrom the radio connector behind the radio, and routed the wires through the left foot well to the amplifier.From the CAN signals I used shielded LIYCY 2x0,34 wire (shielding not connected).In Roys installation, he has routed the cabling under the seats and across the middle column. Choose whatsuit you best.Connecting the amplifierHaving routed all the wires to the left side of the drivers seat, I was ready to connect everything to theamplifier. In order to install the actual amplifier the amplifiers bracket has to be screwed into the floor carpetunder the drivers seat, and a hole in the carpet has to be cut at the left side of the bracket to route the wiresto the connectors. Since my (original VW) floormat in the drivers foot well was longer than the one in Roysphotos, I had the cut it using a box-cutter in order for it not to overlap the amplifier bracket.
Before starting to connect the amplifier connectors, I double checked each signal and speaker wire byconnecting a signal to all speakers one by one and checking that sound could be heard from that speaker.Since I was reluctant to remove the seat I managed to route all the wires from the left side of the vehicle tothe hole by the amplifier bracket, using the hole underneath the plastic cover by the driver’s seat tomanipulate the wires.
Once all the wires were inside the amplifier bracket, I connected the wires to the multi-connectors accordingto the pin-out below, plugged in the multi-pin connectors and turned on the funky music!!No further work is needed, and in particular no reprogramming using VAG-COM is required.And just to repeat Roys warning: If you decide to try this installation, it is at own risk. This is not a projectthat is completed in an afternoon, and there is a chance of breaking car interiors, cables, plugs and otheressentials.A Picture of my car completed: