3. PIPING: ASSEMBLY
1. Clean/rinse out cans
2. Use the drill to drill four holes in
the bottom of each can
3. Connect the cans using caulk:
• Apply a thick layer of caulk to the
inside circumference of the can that is
receiving the attachment
After attaching the cans, let sit for several hours so caulk
can dry/solidify
NOTE: The amount of cans you use and the number of
rows you make depends on the size of the system you
wish to create. We made 2 layers of piping with 4 rows
of 3 cans each
4. PIPING: ASSEMBLY
5. Using sandpaper:
•Smooth the edges of the piping
4. Cut six 1.5”-long pieces of 2” •Sand the inside of each elbow tube about one inch
piping using a hack saw •Sand the outside circumference of each 1.5” piece of
2” piping
6. Apply layer of PVC cement to the inside
circumference of one of the elbow tubes 7. Insert one of the 1.5” pieces of 2” piping
and the outside circumference of one of into the inside of the elbow tube and
the 1.5”-long 2” piping attach second elbow tube (Be sure to align
elbow tubes so as to ensure a 180˚ turn)
5. PIPING: ASSEMBLY Attach rows of cans to elbow tubes
8. Apply a thick layer of caulk to the inside
circumference of the piping and to the
outside circumference of the can you
wish to attach to the elbows
9. Repeat until all rows of cans are
attached to the elbow tubes,
forming a snake-like figure. Let 10. Paint piping black
caulk dry over night
6. BOX FRAME: MATERIALS
• Wood (for sides and bottom)
– Suggested wood for bottom: plywood, chip board, or
floorboards
• Black paint
• Paint brush
• Tools:
– Measuring tape
– Screwdriver & screws
– Saw
– Sandpaper
– Set square
7. BOX FRAME: ASSEMBLY
1. Measure wood plank for siding
• Sides should be long enough to fit around
the piping (you may leave a little wiggle room)
• Sides should be high enough so that box can
fit ~1” of insulation, 1” of zinc plating, and the
piping
2. Attach sides with screws using screwdriver
• Be sure sides meet at a 90˚ angle
• Use 2-3 screws per corner to increase
security
3. Create a base for the frame using wood
4. Use sandpaper to smooth surfaces
5. Paint interior of box black
9. INSULATION & REFLECTOR PLATE: ASSEMBLY
1. Place insulation in bottom of
box so that it is about 1”
thick
2. Cut zinc plating to fit into
inside of box
3. Paint zinc black
4. Place zinc sheet into box on
top of insulation
5. Place piping on top of zinc
10. TOP: MATERIALS
• Wood for frame
• Support for glass
– Suggested support: wood, plastic tubing
• Glass
– Suggestion: glass should be textured on one side (the
inside) so as to prevent light from escaping
• Tools:
– Measuring tape
– Saw
– Nails or screws
– Hammer or screwdriver
– Caulk gun
11. TOP: ASSEMBLY
1. Create a top for the system by
creating a wooden frame with
dimensions slightly larger than
the dimensions of the box
2. Nail or screw the support item
(wood, plastic tubing, etc.) onto
interior of frame so that glass
fits into cover
3. Cut glass so that it fits onto
frame of cover
– Glass should be cut professionally
4. Secure glass onto frame using
caulk
12. ASSEMBLY OF SYSTEM
1. Cut circular holes in box where piping ends
2. Attach 2” PVC tubes to ends of
piping and put these through the
holes to create an entrance and
exit for the air
*If desired, you may create two
layers of piping. Make sure sides
of box frame are tall enough to
fit another layer
13. ASSEMBLY OF SYSTEM
3. At each exit point, connect the tubes to one another
using elbow tubes, 2” piping, and a PVC “Y” connector
5. Add legs to the system to
create a tilt 6. Paint the system if desired
14. FAN: MATERIALS
• Two 4” PVC Caps
• 4” PVC piping (about 8 inches)
4” PVC
• Motor Motor cap
• Wires 4” PVC
• Switch Piping
4” PVC 2” PVC
• Plug cap piping
Plug
• Tools:
– Screwdriver & screws
– drill
15. FAN: ASSEMBLY
1. Drill holes into the perimeter of a 4”
PVC cap to allow for air flow
2. Drill hole in center of cap big enough
so motor can fit into cap
3. Place motor in the hole you drilled in
the cap
4. Secure the motor onto cap using
screws
5. Attach the wires of the fan to a switch
to the system so that the fan can be
turned on and off. Connect the wires
to a plug.
6. Place the cap onto about 8 inches of
4” PVC piping
7. Drill a hole in the other cap that is big
enough so that 2” PVC piping can fit
into it
17. DRYING SPACE: ASSEMBLY
1. Cut 29 pieces of ½-inch PVC piping of equal length
– One meter pieces will make a 2 meter x 1 meter x 1
meter space
=elbows
=‘T’
connectors
2. Attach the piping using ½-inch PVC elbows
– 2 squares
– 3 rectangles with a center piece for support (2 sides and
a top)
19. DRYING SPACE: ASSEMBLY
3. In order to attach a bar for
clothes to hang:
– Attach a ‘T’ to the center of
one of the sides of each
square
– Attach a few inches of PVC
piping to the ‘T’ so that it
hangs down
– At the base of the ‘T’ attach a
PVC elbow facing
4. Wrap each side with plastic to
create walls
5. Connect the sides using
connectors to create a house-
like structure
– Suggested connectors: zip ties
20. CONNECT HEATER & SPACE
1. Cut a hole in one of the sides of the space and tape a 2” PVC
connector in the hole
2. Connect the space heater with the space using 2” piping
