What wines do Burgundians themselves enjoy for their table? We learnt about the secret wines, small producers, and boutique producers as this 3-hour presentation focused on the “insider wines” of the Cote d’Or (plus Corton).
We were delighted that Don Kinnan CSS, CWE returned to lead us in this tasting and discussion. The session also includes a detailed discussion of the mountain of Corton, location of the Cote d’Or’s greatest expanse of Grand Cru vineyard acreage. The “insider wines” are often sought out by knowledgeable Burgundy enthusiasts who enjoy their value and pleasure, while saving their more expensive, high profile brethren for special occasions.
7. “TERROIR”
--represents a potential, rather than a
guarantee,
a promissory note, rather than a receipt.
--the aim of the Bourgogne vigneron is to
attain the maximum expression of “terroir”.
--the vigneron’s credo: supportive yet
respectful, sensitive yet guiding, vigilant ,but
minimally interfering.
8. THE VIGNERON’S VIEW
“The quality potential of wine is in the
vineyard….man can diminish or equal this
quality in the cellar, but not augment it.”
Aubert de Villaine, Co-director, DRC
9. GEOLOGIC TIME LINE
MILLIONS OF
YEARS AGO
PERIOD REMARKS
0-2 Quarternary Ice Age Ice age tapered off 10,000 years ago
2-65 Tertiary Alpine upheaval, Saône rift, present-day
Burgundian topography formed
65-135 Cretaceous
135-195 Jurassic Warm, shallow sea covered Burgundy;
limestone and marls were deposited
195-225 Triassic
225-280 Permian
280-345 Carboniferous Origin of Beaujolais granites and schists
brought to the surface by Tertiary
upheaval
10. THE “TERROIRS” OF BURGUNDY CONTINUED
The Saône fault line, running from Dijon to
Beaujolais, exposed many Jurassic strata along the
resulting slopes.
Over the past 10,000 years, the weathering of these
Jurassic limestone strata have created some of the
world's greatest vineyards.
11. SUB-REGION SOIL ORIGINS
Chablis: Upper Jurassic
Kimmeridgean and
Portlandian Chalky marls
Côte de Nuits: Middle & Lower Jurassic
(Bathonian and Bajocian
epochs)
Côte de Beaune: Middle & Upper Jurassic
(Bathonian and Oxfordian
epochs)
12. THE BURGUNDY CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM
(% NOT INCLUDING BEAUJOLAIS)
Grand Cru
Premier Cru
Village
Regional
2%
10%
36%
52%
16. EARLY HISTORY
Wine production since AD 658.
Early vineyards owned by Duke of Burgundy
and monks at St-Benigne.
In 1648, Chenôve wine sold at higher prices
than those of Gevrey-Chambertin.
17. 20TH CENTURY DEVELOPMENTS
In 1919, Joseph Clair “invents” Marsannay
Rosé.
1987, Marsannay receives village AOC
Investment by Côte d’Or producers elevates
image of wines.
18.
19. MARSANNAY FAST FACTS
Village AOC established 1987 for red, white
and rose’ wines.
Includes Chenôve, Marsannay-La-Cote, and
Couchey.
No premier cru vineyards yet.
22. WINE PRODUCTION (PITIOT 2008)
Red and Rosé: 475 acres;
98,333 cases (20% is Rosé)
White: 85.9 acres;
17,777 cases
(Note: this represents 52% of Côte de Nuits white wine production)
Total: 560.9 acres
116,110 cases
23. MARSANNAY WINE STYLES
Reds: stylish, fruit-forward, supple, early
charm.
Rosé: poised, racy, lively red
fruit, refreshingly crisp.
White: peachy-apple fruit, crisp and
lean, lighter than Fixin whites.
24. SELECTED MARSANNAY PRODUCERS
Bruno Clair (21.25 Ha)
Huguenot Pere et Fils (25 Ha)
Olivier Guyot (14 Ha)
Sylvain Pataille (12 Ha)
25. MARSANNAY POINTS OF DISTINCTION
Burgundy’s finest rose’ wine.
Only Burgundy village appellation which
includes red, white, and rose’ wines.
Northernmost village appellation in the Cote
d’Or.
29. FIXIN FAST FACTS
An early Roman settlement.
Important viticulture since the Middle Ages.
Same geologic strata package as
Chambertin.
Six Premiers Crus
30. TOP PREMIERS CRUS
Clos de la Perrière (6.7
Ha), monopole of
Philippe
Joliet, bequeathed to
Citeaux in 1142 by the
Duke of Burgundy.
Clos du Chapitre (4.79
Ha), monopole of Guy
Dufouleur.
Clos Napoléon (1.83
Ha), monopole of
31. A NAPOLEON CONNECTION
Claude Noisot
Clos Napoléon Vineyard
(1.83 Ha)
Parc Noisot, Museum,
and Sculpture.
35. FIXIN RED WINE STYLE
-- a bit “sauvage”, showing an austere
richness and power. Wines from the northern
part of the slope are lighter and softer.
-- overall, more structured and
robust than Marsannay.
37. FIXIN POINTS OF DISTINCTION
Little brother to Gevrey-Chambertin.
Location of a Napoleon vineyard, museum,
and sculpture.
Three of 6 premiers crus are “monopoles”
42. MAJOR SUB-REGIONS CONTINUED
Côte de
Beaune
18 miles long
Production:
1.9 million cases
71% Pinot Noir
29%
Chardonnay
Origin of the
world’s most
famous
Chardonnay
wines
Includes seven
of the nine white
Grands Crus
45. PERNAND-VERGELESSES FAST FACTS
Has one third of Corton-Charlemagne. It is
entitled “En Charlemagne” and includes the
vineyard parcel previously owned by Emperor
Charlemagne.
8 Premiers Crus
Added “Vergelesses” in 1922
Can include pinot blanc, pinot beurot, and
aligote with chardonnay in white wines.
47. PERNAND PRODUCTION
Red Wines: 230.5 ac. (incl 108.5 ac
premiers crus).
37,222 cs. (incl 19,111 cs premiers crus).
White Wines: 130.9 ac. (incl 43.5 ac premiers
crus).
28,111 cs. (incl 9,111 cs premier crus).
Wine Production is 57% red, 43% white. In the
past 20 years, white has gone from 25% to
43%.
48. PERNAND WINE STYLE “LIKE AN OLD MAINE FARMER”
Reds are characterful, a bit austere, a
mingling of earth and soft berries.
Whites are cool, crisp, applelike, with a slight
herbal note.
One of the Cote d’Or’s
best values.
49. TOP PREMIERS CRUS OF PERNAND
Ile des Vergelesses (23.2 ac)
Les Vergelesses (44.6 ac)
Les Fichots (27.7 ac)
51. PERNAND-VERGELESSES
POINTS OF DISTINCTION
Includes significant grand cru vineyards on
the mountain of Corton (one third of Corton-
Charlemagne).
47% of red vine acreage is premier cru.
Wines are undervalued because of difficult
spelling and pronunciation of name and less
desirable vineyard exposures.
53. SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE - FAST FACTS
Sits at the “headwaters” of the Rhoin
Valley
Multiple sub-soils
A variety of exposures
Ranks #2 among Cote de Beaune villages
in red wine production.
54. SAVIGNY HISTORY
Gallo-Roman origin, named Saviniaco in the
12th century.
Comte de la Loyere(1860s) invents first
straddle tractor and grape destemming
machine. Also introduces straight row vine
planting.
Wall inscription reads:
“the wines of Savigny are nourishing,
theological, and will banish depression.
55. SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE PRODUCTION
Red Grapes: 756 ac, incl 316 ac (1er Cru)
White Grapes: 104 ac, incl 30 ac (1er Cru)
Red Wines: 143,333 cs, incl 59,444 cs (1er Cru)
White Wines: 21,333 cs, incl 5,333 cs (1er Cru)
Note: Reds qualify for Cote de Beaune and Cote de Beaune-Villages.
Village has 22 premiers crus.
56. THE TWO FACES OF SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE
Mont Battois Bois Noel
57. THE TWO FACES OF SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE
Bois Noel (Pernand-side), facing SE &
South.
Mont Battois (Beaune-side), facing NE &
East.
Wine Styles:
--Pernand-side more medium weight, elegant.
--Beaune-side more structured and earthy.
59. PERNAND-SIDE (BOIS NOEL)
Geology is similar to Corton, with a gritty,
sandy marl & ferruginous oolite on top
slopes, reddish-brown limestone on lower
slopes.
Top Premiers Crus:
--Aux Serpentieres, 30.5 ac, a wine of finesse.
--Vergelesses, 46.6 ac, intense and refined.
--Les Lavieres, 43.6 ac, appealingly delicate.
60. BEAUNE-SIDE (MONT BATTOIS)
Soil is sandier, with less stones, and
limestone deposits on lower slopes.
Top Premiers Crus:
--Marconnets, 20.6 ac, rich and concentrated.
--Les Jarrons, 34.1 ac, dense fruit and
structure,
includes a parcel called “La Dominode”.
61. SELECTED PRODUCERS OF SAVIGNY
Simon Bize
Mongeard-Mugneret
Chandon de Briailles
62. SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE
POINTS OF DISTINCTION
Second largest red wine producing village in
the Cote de Beaune, after Beaune.
Two different major slopes, one facing
South/SE, the other facing East/NE.
Home of Burgundy’s inventor of straddle
tractor, de-stemmer, and row-vine planting.
73. MONTHELIE HISTORY
Name comes from Mont Oloye.
Duke Hugues gives land to
Abbot of Cluny in 1078.
In 13th century vineyards were owned by the
order of Notre-Dame de Beaune. By
1528, vineyards appeared in the registry of
the kings of France.
74. FAST FACTS
It lies between Meursault and Volnay,
perched above its vines.
Second smallest wine commune in the Côte
de Beaune, 88% of production is red wine.
15 Premiers Crus. On the Volnay-side, soil is
well-drained and on the lighter side.
75. TOP MONTHELIE PREMIERS CRUS
On the Volnay side:
--Sur la Velle (15 ac)
--Les Champs-Fulliot (20 ac)
Contiguous with Volnay’s Caillerets and Clos
des Chenes. Soils similar, Bathonian
limestone, with a mix of marls and iron-
bearing rock.
77. TOP MONTHELIE PREMIERS CRUS
On the Auxey side:
--Les Duresses (24 ac)
Situated in the Auxey valley with East and
West exposures, less favorable than Volnay
side.
Soil has less limestone which makes for
wines of more structure, but less finesse.
78. MONTHELIE PRODUCTION
Vines:
Reds - 262 ac, incl 84 ac 1er Crus
Whites - 32 ac, incl 4.2 ac 1er Crus
Wines:
Red - 51,555 cs, incl 14,055 cs 1er Crus
White - 7,000 cs, incl 1,111 cs 1er Crus
79. MONTHELIE RED WINE STYLE
Slightly austere when young. High acid and
tannin, but plenty of ripe fleshy fruit and depth.
On the Volnay side, wines show a lot of red
cherry, red currants and strawberry
fruits, without the complexity and charms of a
Volnay red.
On the Auxey side, the wines are a bit
earthy, less distinctive, and less fruit-poised.
81. MONTHELIE POINTS OF DISTINCTION
Contiguous neighbor to Volnay and
Meursault.
Second smallest wine producing village of
the Cote de Beaune (St-Romain is smallest).
88% of production is red wine.
83. AUXEY-DURESSES HISTORY
Gallo-Roman origin, called “Aulaciacum”.
Cistercians arrive in the 11th century.
Added “Duresses” in 1928, but best vineyard
is Clos du Val.
84. AUXEY-DURESSES FAST FACTS
9 Premiers Crus, 68% red wines, 32% white wines.
Vineyards spread along 3 sectors:
--Montagne du Bourdon and Montagne
du Tillet to the immediate north and west.
--Mont Melian to the southeast.
--The hameau of Melin, a kilometer west.
Until the 1930s, Auxey wines sold
as Volnay, Pommard, or Meursault.
86. AUXEY-DURESSES PRODUCTION
Vines:
Reds - 237 ac, incl 69 ac 1er Crus
Whites - 94 ac, incl 5 ac 1er Crus
Wines:
Red - 44,222 cs, incl 12,944 cs 1er Crus
White - 20,889 cs, incl 1,222cs 1er Crus
87. TOP AUXEY-DURESSES PREMIERS CRUS
Clustered below Montagne du Bourbon:
• Clos du Val (2.3 ac), monopole of Prunier family.
Southeast and South facing.
• Climat du Val, aka Le Val (20.7 ac)
• Les Duresses (19.6 ac), east-
facing, next to Monthelie.
88. AUXEY-DURESSES WINE STYLES
Reds - - 2 styles
--One is softer, forward, and plump, more
modern.
--The second is more concentrated and
structured, with a tendency toward rustic.
90. AUXEY-DURESSES POINTS OF DISTINCTION
Elongated vineyard area, three separate
slopes. Nine premiers crus clustered along
the Monthelie border.
Until 1937, wines were sold Volnay,
Pommard, and Meursault.
Best premier cru climat is “Clos du Val”.
97. CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET HISTORY
Roman origin, original village very high on hill. It
was destroyed by Louis XI. A new village was
established halfway down the hill.
Early name, “Cassaneas”, became
“Chaissagne” by end of 15th century.
Monastic ownership by the Abbey of Maizières
and the Abbess Saint-Jean-le-Grand. They
established Abbaye de Morgeot and Clos-Saint-
Jean, two of today’s largest premiers crus.
98. CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET FAST FACTS
3 Grands Crus, two shared with Puligny, Le
Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet.
Exclusivity of Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet.
19 Premiers Crus with 55 climats.
Often underrated, especially its red wines.
99.
100. CHASSAGNE PRODUCTION
Vines: Whites - 487 ac, incl 289 ac 1er Crus
Reds - 282 ac, incl 83 ac 1er Crus
Wines: White - 112,888 cs, (65,944 cs 1er
Crus)
Red - 61,222 cs, (17,333 cs 1er
Crus)
* 64 % of total is white wine
101. “TERROIRS”
The Montrachet fault continues through
Chassagne, giving mostly Beaune strata
soils, mixed with Nuits strata from higher up
the slope.
Rock is mainly oolitic limestone with varying
marls. Lighter “terres blanches” is found
upslope, and heavier “terres rouge” lower, as
in the 1er cru, Morgeot.
102. CHASSAGNE RED WINE STYLE
In 1816, Chassagne’s top premiers crus reds
commanded the same prices as Clos de
Tart, Clos de la Roche, Musigny, and
Amoureuses.
Compares with a good Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Both have similar peppery, tannic harshness
when young, and display good color with
dense fruit. Both become more complex and
smooth with age.
103. TOP RED WINE PREMIERS CRUS
Clos Saint-Jean
Clos de la Boudriotte
Morgeot
These vineyards have deeper soils with iron
oxide.
106. CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET
POINTS OF DISTINCTION
Shares Burgundy’s finest white wine
vineyards with Puligny-Montrachet, which
lies to its north.
Historically, the village was always a
dominant red wine producer.
Economics over the past century has seen
white wines grow to 64% of village
production.
108. SANTENAY HISTORY
Dates from the Gallo-Roman period, was
named “Santennacum” for the nearby Mont de
Sène.
Philip the Bold built a castle. On the grounds
are two trees planted by Henry V in 1599.
Natural thermal springs with curative properties
were used by the Romans and are used today.
111. SANTENAY FAST FACTS
4th largest red wine producer in the Côte de Beaune.
Two Hamlets comprise the village, Santenay-le-Bas
and Santenay-le-Haut, about 1km apart.
Côte d’Or’s southern outpost, although Cheilly-les-
Maranges is its southernmost wine commune.
Two prominent tourist attractions, a casino and a
thermal springs spa.
113. SANTENAY’S VITICULTURAL DISTINCTIONS
Vineyards are trained in “cordon de royat’.
This limits vine vigor, delays
pruning, spreads out clusters, giving better
photosynthesis and ripening.
A special pinot noir
clone, “pinot fin de
Santenay”
114. SANTENAY PRODUCTION (11 PREMIERS CRUS)
Vines:
Red - 696 ac, incl 274 ac 1er Crus
White - 116 ac, incl 31 ac 1er Crus
Wines:
Red - 128,500 cs, incl 49,333 cs 1er Crus
White - 24,278 cs, incl 7,000 cs 1er Crus
(16 % White Wines)
115. SANTENAY WINE STYLES
Red Wines: Two Styles
--South of the village, more like Chassagne
reds, but earthier, solid, a bit coarse.
--North of the village, lighter
and more refined, becoming
increasingly round and fruity.
116. TOP SANTENAY PREMIERS CRUS
North of village, near Chassagne border:
(BEST) La Comme (53.4 ac); Clos de
Tavannes (13.1 ac); Les Gravières (59 ac).
Mainly Beaune strata with Nuits slope wash
geology, limestone debris covering Argovian
limestone layers, with some clay, higher on
the slope (La Comme).
117.
118. TOP SANTENAY PREMIERS CRUS (CONT’D)
Above Santenay-le-Bas: La Maladière
(33.5 ac)
--Soil changes to Nuits strata, Bajocian
limestones. Wine style is lighter and more
delicate and perfumed.
West of the village: Clos Rousseau (58
ac)
--Soil is richer, Bajocian limestone, and
browner in color. Wine has weight, structure
120. SANTENAY POINTS OF DISTINCTION
Considered the Cote d’Or’s southern outpost.
Ranks 4th as a red wine producer among
Cote de Beaune villages.
Known for its use of “cordon royat” vine
training to restrain the vigor of a unique pinot
clone “pinot fin de santenay”.
127. WINE TASTING ORDER (VOTE TWICE)
B. Fixin I. Santenay
C. Marsannay J. Chassagne
D. Savigny M&M
E. Pernand
F. Savigny Bize
G. Monthelie
H. Auxey-Duresses
129. MAJOR SUB-REGIONS CONTINUED
Côte de Beaune
18 miles long
Production:
1.9 million cases
71% Pinot Noir
29% Chardonnay
Origin of the
world’s most
famous
Chardonnay
wines
Includes seven of
the nine white
Grands Crus
131. MOUNTAIN OF CORTON FAST FACTS
Largest Grand Cru vineyard in La Cote d’Or.
Highest Grand Cru elevation in La Cote d’Or,
388m (1273 feet).
Emperor Charlemagne’s private vineyard.
200 owners have a part of the grands crus.
132. CORTON GRAND CRU FAST FACTS
234 acres, 28 climats
95.2% Pinot Noir, 4.8% Chardonnay
Extensive soil and exposition diversity
133. MORE CORTON GRAND CRU FAST FACTS
Encompasses 3 villages, Aloxe-Corton,
Ladoix-Serrigny, and Pernand-Vergelesses.
Name is a contraction of “the domaines of
Orthon”, a 1st century Roman emperor.
Vineyards cover 270 degrees of the hill
135. GRANDS CRUS PRODUCTION
Corton (95.2 % red): 234ac, 38,733
cs
Corton-Charlemagne: (100% white)
130.2 ac, 25,167 cs
(note: includes Charlemagne grand cru)
136. GRAND CRU ACREAGE BY VILLAGE
Aloxe-Corton: 273.5 ac. (75%)
Ladoix-Serrigny: 51.0 ac. (14%)
Pernand-Vergelesses: 40.1 ac. (11%)
Total Acreage: 364.6 ac. (100%)
137. GEOLOGY OF THE HILL OF CORTON
A symmetrical butte, with a wooded cap.
Cap rock is Nantoux limestone (upper Jurassic).
Upper slopes have white oolitic marl, on a hard
Oxfordian base (upper Jurassic).
Further down is more iron, pebbles, and brown
limestone, with a ferruginous oolite layer (middle
Jurassic). Excellent for pinot noir.
139. CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE & CHARLEMAGNE
Highest elevation on the hill
130 acres, Upper Jurassic “terroir”
Linked to Emperor Charlemagne
100% Chardonnay
140. THE CHARLEMAGNE CONNECTION
Emperor Charlemagne’s 4 ac vineyard planted
in the 7th century.
The legend of “Luitgarde”.
Charlemagne gives vineyard to the Abbey of
Saulieu in AD 775.
Presently, is believed part of Domaine Bonneau
du Martray.
141. THE MOUNTAIN
OF CORTON
View of the Mountain of Corton (left), and the
Village of Pernand-Vergelesses from the west
The Mountain of Corton viewed at
close distance from the south
142. TOP CORTON “CLIMATS”
A quartet of “baritones”: Le Clos du Roi, Le
Corton, Les Renardes, Les Bressandes.
A trio of “tenors”: Les Pougets, Les
Perrieres, Les Languettes
146. CORTON WINE CLASSIFICATION
Certain designated Corton parcels may carry
the Corton-Charlemagne appellation, if
chardonnay is planted.
28 designated climats of Corton can be blended
as “Corton”, or bottled individually and named
“Corton plus name of climat”.
If white wine is produced from certain
designated Corton parcels, it is not Corton-
Charlemagne, but rather Corton Blanc.
147. CORTON WINE CLASSIFICATION, THERE’S MORE
The production zone of Corton-Charlemagne
encompasses that of Charlemagne.
Red wine produced from Corton-
Charlemagne can be called Corton “En
Charlemagne”.
Certain Corton-Charlemagne parcels may
carry the Corton appellation, if planted to
pinot noir.
148. SELECTED PRODUCERS
Domaine Bonneau du Martray (Pernand)
Domaine Louis Jadot(Beaune)
Domaine Louis Latour(Aloxe-Corton)
Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils(Pernand)
150. CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE WINE STYLE
“drama in the glass”
A wine of texture and a sensation of
heaviness, without being heavy. An
aggressive minerality, a “gout de terroir”.
Benefits from 8-12 years of bottle age, as a
minimum.
153. RED WINE STYLE OF CORTON (CLIVE COATES)
“a big red with depth and grip. Can be austere
and hard when young. Fruit has an
herbaceous, leafy aspect to it. Clos du Roi and
a few climats nearby can aspire to greatness.”