Fashion Design Portfolio By Pooja Chapparwal, B.Sc. Fashion Design

Project report on
Women’s western wear
Submitted to
Dezyne E’cole College,
towards the Partial fulfilment for
the awards of Diploma in
Fashion Technology as
technical knowledge development of
women's wears
included with the bachelors degree
program of fashion technology
By
POOJA CHHAPARWAL
Dezyne E’cole College, Ajmer
106/10, civil lines, Ajmer
Tel. no. 0145 2624679
www.dezyneecole.com
2014-2017

The Project of Ms. Pooja Chhaparwal has been checked & has been graded as
Thanking You
Principal
(Seal & Signature)
Dezyne E’cole College
Civil Lines, Ajmer.
www.dezyneecole.com

I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of tremendous value and enabled me
to complete this project successfully.
I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’cole who gave me an opportunity to show my
abilities by working on this project on the esteem organization..
POOJA CHHAPARWAL
Bachelor of Science in Fashion Technology
Acknowledgement

CONTENTS
1. Fashion as a Person’s Image
2. Fashion Industry
3. Learning Experience
4. Foundation Design
5. Corel Draw
6. Fashion Illustration
7. Textile Studies
8. Pattern Engineering
9. Measurement Techniques
10. Seams and Hemlines
11. Draping
12. Fabric Manipulation
13. Elements and Principles of Design
14. Tribal Art

Fashion is more than wearing good clothes it is about presenting a person’s image in the society,
we generally see people accepting fashion due to the peer pressure, image in the society and
when a person wants a change to brighten his life. There are many reasons we wear what we
wear.
 Protection from cold, rain and snow: - mountain climbers wear high-tech outwear to avoid
frostbite and over- exposure.
 Physical attention:-many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.
 Emotions: - we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when we’re upset.
 Religious expression: - orthodox Jewish men wear long black suits and Islamic women cover
every part of their body except their eyes.
 Identification and tradition: - judges wear robes, people in the military wear uniforms, brides
wear long white dresses.
Fashion As A Person's Image

Within the sphere of technology
industries, design technology is
perhaps the fastest growing today.
With new technologies emerging
rapidly and industries changing
complexion, more and more job
opportunities are up for the taking. It is
estimated that India will have a
shortfall of five lakh people in the
design sector by 2010- 11, but not all
graduates will be employable. Thus
bringing the gap between talent and
the skills required by the industry is
important. Today, only one in every
four designers is employable and only
10% of the design graduates manage
to get employment in the design
industry. Hence the students should
understand the basic requirement of
the industry and exhibit that ability.
Fashion Industry

This is what I learnt here at
Dezyne E'cole college creating
fashion doesn’t just entail a
vivid imagination and instinct
for creativity. It also involves
many decisions and myriad
techniques, focused on a
central idea. Dezyne E'cole's
fashion design has made me
build a strong foundation in
terms of design sense,
conceptualisation, independent
research, creative application
and individual artistic
expression.
Learning Experience

As a part of fashion industry I am
training my self through formal
education in Bachelor Degree of
Science in Fashion Technology
and industry oriented diploma
programme in built with this
study.
During the course duration of
Diploma programme I had an
exposure towards practical
working in Fashion Design.
Learning Experience

Color is one of the most vital
tool in the hands of
designer.it is the most
perceptible & prominent
aspect of any designer,
hence is central to the
success or failure of a
design scheme.it is very
important that a designer
has the full knowledge &
understanding of its tool.
Color Wheel

Variations Of Warm & Cool Colors
BLUE
A range of BLUES, from purple to cool Blue.
RED
A range of REDS, From Warm Red to Cool Red.
YELLOW
A range of Yellows, From Warm Yellow to Cool Yellow

The Yellow is a lighter
value than the Red
The Blue color is a darker
value than the Orange
The Green is the lighter
value than the Brown
The Dark Green is equal in
the value to the Brown
Compare the Blue and Red rectangles to the gray rectangles or either side of each color.
Which Gray is equal in value to the color ?It may be helpful to stand at a distance and blur
your eyes. If the edge between the two areas disappears, the values are equal.
Comparing Value Of Colors

Accented
neutral
colors
scheme

Puff Sleeve
Cap Sleeve
Plain Sleeve
Tulip Sleeve

Bell Sleeve
Pagoda Sleeve
Shirt Sleeve
Layered Sleeve

Simple Cuff
Faced Hem Cuff
Button Tab Cuff
Draw String Cuff

Fitted High
Waist & Peplum
High Waist
Scalloped Hem
Pleated Skirt
Bubble Basic
Hem Band

Novelty
Gathered Skirt
Fitted Front
Button Placket
Straight Below
Knee
Box Pleat
Skirt

CONTENTS
 Introduction.
 Sericulture Process.
 Filature Operation.
 Sorting Cocoons.
 Softening The Sericin.
 Reeling The Filament.
 Throwing.
 Degumming.

Introduction Of Silk
 Silk is a natural protein fiber produced by the larva of silk moth.
 Silk can be produced only where the mulberry trees grows.The most important silk producing
areas are: china, India,Japan,Brazil,Korea,Thailand,Turkey and France.
 Main producing country-Japan.

Sericulture Process
In sericulture, all four stages of the life cycle of this moth are important

Filature Operation
 The cocoons that are raised by silk farmers are delivered to a factory

Sorting Cocoons
 The cocoons as sorted according to color, size, shape & texture.
 Cocoons china are white; Japanese cocoons are creamy white and yellow; Italian
cocoons are yellow.

Softening The Sericin
 After sorting they are put through a series of and cold immersions as the sericin must be
softened to permit the unwinding of the filament as one continuous thread.

Reeling The Filament
 The process of unwinding the filament from cocoons called ”reeling”.
 The usable length of the reeled filament is from 1000-2000 ft.

Throwing
 Filament from 3-8 reels combs together by inverting twist and this yarn is called as throw
yarn

Degumming
 Degumming is finishing and dying procedure to remove sericin or the gum by boiling
the silk in soap and then water.

Fashion design runs the garment from
eveningwear to sportswear, women’s wear to
menswear, and kids wear to knitwear. Garment
Construction popularly called as Pattern
Engineering has a great importance in the fashion
design industry. The companies like Van Heuson,
Dockers, Levis, Adidas etc. are all providers of
perfect fit and this is what we learn at Dezyne
E’cole through the art of pattern making.
A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block
pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted,
basic pattern from which patterns for many
different styles can be developed.
The draping method involves creating a muslin
mock-up pattern by pinning fabric directly on
a form, then transferring the muslin outline and
markings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin
as the pattern itself.
The flat pattern drafting method is the most
commonly used method in menswear; menswear
rarely involves draping.
Garment Construction

The flat pattern method is were the entire drafted surface from measurements, using
rulers, curves and straight edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools and measuring
devices to create a toile pattern on dummy.
Tools And Equipments
Drafting Ruler
scissors
Needles
Threads French Curve
Tailors Chock

Various Signs And Symbols Of Pattern Marking
Which Generally On Pattern
GathersGrain line
Cutting line
Alteration Line
Seam allowance
Combine buttons
Hemlines
Button holes
On fold
Button position
Gathers
NAME NAMESYMBOL SYMBOL

Pleats
Darts
Tucks
Waist Line
Single Notches
Balance Mark
Double Notches
Triple Notches
Zipper Placement
Markings to be
transferred from the
pattern pieces
SYMBOLNAME NAME SYMBOL

Notches :-
• Seam allowance
• Center Line
• Ease $ Gather Control
• Dart Legs
• Identification of Front
& Back
• Identification of
Joining Parts
• Zipper Placement
• Facing
• Hemline
• Waistline
• Shoulder Tip
• Sleeve Cap
Jog Seam :-
A jog seam is used to
indicate a change in the
seam allowance.
Punch / Circle :-
• Dart intake
• Corners
• Buttons / Buttonholes
• Trimmings
• Pocket placement
¼ Inch :
• All faced areas
• Narrow spacing
• Extreme curve
• Sleeveless armhole
½ Inch :
• Side seam
• Waist line
• Center line
• Styline
1 inch :
• Shoulder
2 inch :
• Straight Hemline
Seam Allowance :-
Notches

1. Centre Front Neck
2. Centre Front Waist
3. Bust Point
4. Centre Front Bust Level
5. Side Front Princess
6. Mid Armhole Front (at level with plate)
7. Nape of the Neck
8. Shoulder Tip
9. Armhole Ridge or Roll Line
10. Plate Screw
11. Armhole Plate
Landmarks

Single Dart Bodice Block with two tire Skirt
• Size- 34”
• Fabric- Muslin
• Finishes
 Neck Finish- neck finished with piping
 Armhole Finish- armhole finished with facing
 Hemline Finish- hemline finished with facing

Front View
V- Neckline
V- Neckline
Finished with
piping
Armhole
finished with
facing
Hemline
finished with
facing

Double Dart Series
Mid Armhole and Waist Dart Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart

The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from
measurements. Under garment construction we learnt about the measuring techniques on the
dress form. That can be seen here:-
Different ways of taking measurement :-
• Circumference Measurement
• Vertical Measurement
• Horizontal Measurement
Measurements

Bust 34’’
Waist 26’’
Hip 34’’

Waist Arc 6.5’’
Bust Arc 9’’ Abdomen Arc 8.5’’

Centre Front Length 9’’
Side Length 6.5’’
Full length 8.5’’

Dart manipulation introduced the slash spread and pivotal transfer pattern making
technique to transfer
dart excess from one location to another for design variation. It is the beginning of
pattern manipulating
process for generating design patterns. It requires both artistic and technical skills
to mange and control the pattern.
There are three principles for dart manipulation.
PRINCIPLE 1
A dart may be transferred to any location around the patterns outlines from a
designated pivotal point
Without affecting the size or fit of a garment.
 ONE DART SERIES
 TWO DART SERIES
PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness
To increase fabric in a garment to an amount greater than that provided by the
dart excess of the working
pattern. The length and width within the pattern’s outline must be increased.
PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring
To fit the contours of the upper torso closer than does the basic garment the
pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of the body above,
below and in between the bust mounds and shoulder blades.
Dart Manipulation
Side dartCentre front
bust dart

MID SHOULDER MID ARMHOLE
Single Dart Series

MID SHOULDER & WAIST MID ARMHOLE & WAIST
Double Dart Series

SeamsUnder garment construction we learnt about the different types of decorative seams. These
seams can be used as a decorative as well as structural element on the garments.
The various seams learnt during these study programme are :-
Flat & Fell Seam
The flat & fell seam
is suitable for tailors,
reversible
Plain Seam
It joins two pieces of fabric together
face-to-face by sewing through both
pieces.
These seam can be used on woven &
knit fabrics.

Abutted Seam
Abutted seams are suitable for
material which do not ravel
foundation garment and
interfacing.
Bound Seam
Bound seam is used in
finishing necklines, sleeves,
hems and in finishing seams
on unlined jackets and coats.

Top Seam
Versatile & easy top stitch are
the most popular decorative
seam by changing the size,
color and kind of thread.
French Seam
The French seam is strong and
durable. This seam is usually
used on lightweight woven,
sheer and other delicate
fabrics.

Double Hem
Frequently used on light weight
& transparent fabrics. Double
hem is a good choice for
rectangular skirt & children
garments.
Lettuce Edge
To make an attractive rippled
edge use it on knits with 50%
stretch or on bias cut woven
fabric.

Blind Hem Stitch
The stitching is almost invisible
on the right side of the fabric.
The blind hem stitch is
primarily used for hemming
curtains, trousers, skirts, etc.
Book Hem
Book hem is frequently used on
coats, jackets and children
garment. This hem stitch is used
when top stitching would distract
from garment appearance and
raw edges would be unsightly on
the inside of the garment.

Side View
French Dart
Front View Back View

Mid Shoulder Dart
Side View

Mid Armhole Dart
Side View

Mid Shoulder & Waist Dart
Side View

Mid Armhole & Waist Dart
Side View

Side &Waist Dart
Side View

Side View
Tuck Dart

Side View
Pleat Dart

Side View
Parallel Dart

Radiating Neck Dart
Side View

Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (waist)
Side View

Classic Princess Style Line(torso)
Side View

Mid Armhole Princess Style Line (Torso)
Side View

Waist Dart Cluster
Side View

Side View
Gathers (Waist)

Fullness Around Neck Band
Side View

Fullness Around Princess Panel
Side View

For any fashion designer,
fabrics 1st need to be prepared
with textures and then used for
style and design development.
Style require plain texture and
some time textured fabric to
create better style.
Presenting few best ideas of
texture which I learned at my
study of fashion design at
Dezyne E’cole College.
The Art Of
Manipulating
Fabric

CONTENTS
 Introduction.
 Denim Become Popular.
 Types Of Denim.
 In The 1950’s Denim Jackets
Become A Fashion
Statement.
 In 1970’s Women’s Wearing
Denim.
 Accessories.

FT
INTRODUCTION
 Levi Strauss Is Credited With Making The First Blue
Jeans Out Of Denim In The 1850’s For Gold Miners In
California.
 Commerically Sold Denim Workwear Become Very
Popular.

TYPES OF DENIM
The Fabric Can Be Found Today In Nearly Any Colour Imaginable.

JACKETS
A Denim Jackets Never Goes Out Of Style.

DENIM BECOME POPULAR
 With New Companies Such As Dickies And
Wrangler Joining The Trend.
 Women’s Were Wearing Denim Skirts And
Dress Could Be Found In Numerous
Styles.

Line:-Straight lines.
Shapes:-Geometric shapes & Diamond
shapes.
Color:-Monochromatic color scheme, pure
color to white.
Texture:- Rough.
Shapes:- Organics shapes.
Color:- Warm colors.
Texture:- smooth texture.

Line:- Curves line,straight
lines+contrast.
Illusion:- Fish & Squares.
Color:- Warm colors.
Line:-Straight lines.
Shapes:-Geometric shapes.
Color:- warm color.
Texture:- Rough.

Line:-Straight lines & zig-zag.
Shapes:-Geometric shapes & triangles shapes.
Form:- Prism.
Color:-Warm color.
Texture:- Rough.

Fashion Design Portfolio By Pooja Chapparwal, B.Sc. Fashion Design

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