Dezyne E'cole College student portfolio made after her 1year duration of study at the college. Msc.Fashion Technology student are given technical inputs to make them industry ready. Presenting her work just after 9 months of her period of study at Dezyne E'cole College , Ajmer.

1. PortfolioHarsha leharwani ,M.Sc-Fashion Technology
Dezyne E’cole College,www.dezyneecole.com

2. Project Report on
Women’s Western Wear
Submitted To
Dezyne E’cole College
Towards he partial fulfillment for the award of Diploma in Fashion Technology
As technical knowledge development of Women's Wear included with the masters Degree Program of
Fashion Technology
By
Harsha leharwani
Dezyne E’cole College
106/10, Civil Line, Ajmer
0145-2624679
www.dezyneecole.com
2014-2016

3. The Project of Ms. Harsha leharwani has been checked & has been graded as
Thank you
Principal
(seal & signature)
Dezyne E’cole college
civil lines, Ajmer
www.dezyneecole.com

4. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of tremendous value and enabled me to complete
this project successfully.
I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’cole who gave me an opportunity to show my abilities by working
on this project on the esteem organization.
Harsha Leharwani
Masters of Science in Fashion Technology

5. Content
1. Foundation Design Colours
2. Corel
3. Illustration
4. Fabric Studies
5. Garment Construction and Orbito
6. Draping
7. Fabric Manipulation
8. Fashion History
9. Tribal Art

6. Fashion is more than wearing good clothes it is about presenting a person’s image in the
society, we generally see people accepting fashion due to the peer pressure, image in the
society and when a person wants a change to brighten his life. There are many reasons
we wear what we wear.
 Protection from cold, rain and snow: - mountain climbers wear high-tech outwear to
avoid frostbite and over- exposure.
 Physical attention:-many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.
 Emotions: - we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when we’re upset.
 Religious expression: - orthodox Jewish men wear long black suits and Islamic women
cover every part of their body except their eyes.
 Identification and tradition: - judges wear robes, people in the military wear uniforms,
brides wear long white dresses.
Fashion as a person’s image

7. Within the sphere of technology industries, design technology is perhaps the fastest growing
today. With new technologies emerging rapidly and industries changing complexion, more and
more job opportunities are up for the taking. It is estimated that India will have a shortfall of five
lakh people in the design sector by 2010- 11, but not all graduates will be employable. Thus
bringing the gap between talent and the skills required by the industry is important. Today, only
one in every four designers is employable and only 10% of the design graduates manage to get
employment in the design industry. Hence the students should understand the basic requirement
of the industry and exhibit that ability.
Fashion Industry

8. This is what I learnt
here at Dezyne E’cole
College Creating fashion
doesn’t just entail a
vivid imagination and
instinct for creativity. It
also involves many
decisions and myriad
techniques, focused on
a central idea. Dezyne
E’cole’s Fashion Design
has made me build a
strong foundation in
terms of design sense,
conceptualisation,
independent research,
creative application and
individual artistic
expression.
Learning Experience

9. As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through formal education in Bachelor
Degree of Science in Fashion Technology and industry oriented diploma programme in built
with this study. During the course duration of Diploma programme I had an exposure towards
practical working in Fashion Design

10. Foundation design colors

11. Color impression on human mind: Color is one of the most vital
tools in the hands of a Designer. It is the most perceptible and prominent aspect of any designer ,
and hence is central to the success or failure of a design scheme. It is therefor very important that
a Designer has the full knowledge and understanding of the tool

12. Worm and cool color
Shades to tint of warm color - Red
Shades to tint of cool color - Green
Shades to tint of cool color - Blue

13. Comparing value of colors
The yellow is a lighter Value than the red The blue is a darker Value than the orange
Green is lighter then brown The dark green is equal to the brown
Compare the blue and red rectangles on either side of each color. Which grey
is equal in value to the color? It may be helpful to stand at a distance and blur
your eyes. If the edge between the two areas disappear, the values are equal

18. ILLUSTRATION

19. Kangaroo Buttoned Bellow Kangaroo Buttoned
Flap Basic Cargo front Flap Edged Channel Style

20. Side button cuff Draw String Cuff Simple cuff
Button Tab cuff Faced Hem Cuff Elastic cuff

21. Layered sleeve Tulip Sleeve Puff Sleeve
Bushirt Sleeve Magyar Sleeve Plain Sleeve

22. Bertha Knitted Ends Bertha Draped Bertha Braid Edge Trim
B Bertha Basic notched Bertha Deep Neckline Capulet Handkerchief

23. Textile studies

24. For any fashion designer it is very important to study about fabrics and its properties
For designing new age clothes a fashion designer should be aware about fabric finishes
Like fire repellency, water repellency, aroma fabrics,anti wrinkled fabrics of fabrics
A small report on fabric is presented here.

25. From Field to Mill
• Cultivating
• Harvesting
Preparation Of Fiber
•Rippling
• Retting
Manufacturing Process
•Breaking
•Scutching
•Hackling
•Spinning
Content

26. Cultivating Harvesting
Manufacturing process
Retting Rippling
Spinning
Yarn
Breaking Hacklingscutching
Preparation of fiber
Linen Process

27. From field to mill
 Cultivating -
• Flex plant required deep& well- plowed soil.
•The flex seeds are sown in April & may.
•In three months plants become straight &slender with
purple & blue flower..

28. Harvesting-
•Harvesting is done in the end of
august & the stalk is tied in bundles
called ‘beets’.

29. Preparation
of fiber
Rippling –
The seeds and the leaves are removed
From the stems of the plant by passing
the stalks through coarse combs.

30. Retting-
The bundles of plants are then steeped in
water, thus loosing the gum that binds the
fiber to the stem
This is called retting.
 There are six types of retting:
•Dew Retting
• Chemical retting
• Mechanical Retting
• steam Retting
• Pool retting
Preparation of
fiber

31. Manufacturing process
 Breaking-
• In this process the decomposed woody tissue is
being crushed by being passed through fluted iron
rollers.
• The breaking operation reduces the stalk to small
pieces of bark called ‘shives’

32. Preparation of
fiber
 Scutching-
• The scutching machine removes
the broken shives by means of rotating wooden
paddles, thus finally realizing the flex fiber from
the stalk.

33.  Hackling
• The simple combing process known
as hackling.
• In this process short fibers get
separated from long fibers and leave
the longer fiber in parallel formation.
• A finer comb is used progressively
at each stage

34. Spinning-
• The fibers are drawn into yarn and
spun.
•Spinning process insert a neccery
twist.
• there are two methods for spinning
the hackled flex-
a. Wet spinning
b. Dry spinning

35. Garment construction
Fashion design runs the garment from eveningwear to sportswear, women’s wear to
menswear, and kids wear to knitwear. Garment Construction popularly called as Pattern
Engineering has a great importance in the fashion design industry. The companies like Van
Heuson, Dockers, Levis, Adidas etc. are all providers of perfect fit and this is what we learn at
Dezyne E’cole through the art of pattern making.
A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted,
basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed.
The draping method involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern by pinning fabric directly on
a form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the
muslin as the pattern itself.
The flat pattern drafting method is the most commonly used method in menswear

36. Tools and equipment's for Garment construction
The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements, using
rulers, curves and straight-edges As a fashion designer I use various tools and measuring devices to create
a toil pattern on dummy.

37. Seam allowance
Hem line
Button hole
Cutting line
Grain line
On fold
Alteration seam
Seam line
Combine button
Button position
Snap fasteners
Gathers
Various signs & symbols of marking which I generally use on pattern

38. Dart
Pleats
Tucks
Bust point
Waist line
Single notches
Double notches
Triple notches
Zipper placement
Balance mark
Marking to be
transferred from
the pattern pieces

39.  Notches
• Seam allowance
• Center lines
• Ease and gather control
• Dart Legs
• Zipper placement
• Facings
• Hemlines
• West lines
• Shoulder tip
• Placement of trim
• Sleeve cap
 Punch circle
• Dart intake
• Corners
• Button holes
• Pocket placement
 Jog seam- A jog seam is used
To indicate a change in the seam
allowance.
 Seam allowances
 ¼ inch
• All faced areas
• Narrow spacing
• Extreme curve
• Sleeves armholes
 ½ inch
• Side Seam
• Armhole with sleeve
• Waist lines
• Center Lines
• Style Lines
 1 inch
• Shoulder
• 2 inches
• Straight hemline

40. Landmarks
Number refer to both the front and back wherever
Indicated
1 center front neck
Center front waist
Bust point
Center front bust level
Center front (princess)
Mid armhole front (at the level with pleat screw)
Mid armhole back
Shoulder tip
Shoulder at neck
Armhole ridge or roll line
Pleat screw
Armhole pleat

41. Flat patterning begins with the creation of a sloper or block pattern, a simple, fitted garment made to the
wearer's measurements.
The different ways of taking measurements-
• Circumference measurements
• Horizontal measurements
• Vertical measurements
Circumference Measurements

42. Round bust = 34’’
Round waist =
26.5’’
Abdomen =36’’
Size = 34’’

43. Horizontal measurements

44. Dart
placement=3.2’’
Abdomen are= 3’’Across chest= 34’’
Size = 34’’

45. Vertical measurements

46. 0
Size - 34
Size = 34’’
SIDE LENGTH =
7.5’’
CENTER BACK
LENGTH =16’’
FULL LENGTH = 17

47. Women's basic bodice block

48. Women's basic sleeve block

49. Women's basic skirt block

50. Dart manipulation introduced the slash spread and
pivotal transfer pattern making technique to transfer
dart excess from one location to another for design
variation. It is the beginning of pattern manipulating
process for generating design patterns. It requires both
artistic and technical skills to mange and control the
pattern.
There are three principles for dart manipulation.
PRINCIPLE 1
A dart may be transferred to any location around the
patterns outlines from a designated pivotal point
Without affecting the size or fit of a garment.
 ONE DART SERIES
 TWO DART SERIES
PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness
To increase fabric in a garment to an amount greater
than that provided by the dart excess of the working
pattern. The length and width within the pattern’s
outline must be increased.
PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring
To fit the contours of the upper torso closer than does
the basic garment the pattern must be reduced within
its frame to fit the dimension of the body above, below
and in between the bust mounds and shoulder blades.
Mid
neck
Mid
shoulder
Shoulder
tip
CF
neck
Mid
armhole
Side
dart
CF waist
French
dart
French
dart
French dart
CF
bust

51. Single dart series
Mid armhole dartMid shoulder dart

52. Boat neck
Mid Armhole Dart
Tulip Skirt
Front View

53. Hemline-Facing
Waist dart
Boat neck
Back View

54. Mid shoulder waist dart dart
Double dart series
Mid armhole waist dart dart

55. V neckline
Mid shoulder dart
Handkerchief skirt
Front View

56. Fabric Manipulation
Hemlinre-Piko
U neckline
Back View

58. Seams
Versatile & easy. Top stitch seams are
the most popular decorative seam by
changing the size ,color and kind of the
thread. The number and position of top
stitch rows and the stitch length, you
can create an endless variety of
decorative seam.
Flat fell seam
Flat fell seam is suitable for tailored
garment and work clothes in light to
medium weight fabrics &light most self
finished seams. it is sturdy, durable
seam which will with stand heave wear
& frequent laundering
Top seam

59. Abutteed seam
Abutted seams are suitable for material
which don't ravel Usage- Foundation
garments& interfacing.
Plain seam
Plain seem join 2 pieces of fabric
Together face to face by sewing
through both pieces

61. French dart
Front view Back view
Side view

62. Mid shoulder dart
Front view Back view
Side view

63. Mid armhole dart
Front view Back view
Side view

64. Mid shoulder & waist dart
Front view Back view
Side view

65. Mid armhole & waist dart
Front view Back view
Side view

66. Side & waist dart
Front view
Back view
Side view

67. Waist tuck dart
Front view Back view
Side view

68. Waist Pleat dart
Front view Back view
Side view

69. Neck radiating
Front view Side view

70. Side view
Parallel dart
Front view Back view

71. Mid shoulder princess panel (waist)
Front view Back view
Side view

72. Mid shoulder princess panel torso
Front view Back view
Side view

73. Mid-armhole princess panel (torso)
Front view Back view
Side view

74. Shoulder dart cluster
Front view Back view
Side view

75. Waist dart cluster

76. Fullness around neck band
Front view Back view
Side view

77. Fullness around princess panel
Front view Back view
Side view

79. For any fashion designer
fabrics first needs to be
prepared with textures and
than used for style and
design development .
Style requires plain
textures and some times
textured fabric to create
better style.
Presenting few best ideas
of textures which I learned
at my study of fashion
design at Dezyne E’cole
College

80. Fabric manipulation 1

81. Fabric manipulation 2

82. Fabric manipulation 3

83. Fabric manipulation 4

84. Fabric manipulation 5

85. Fabric manipulation 6

86. Fabric manipulation 7

87. Fabric manipulation 8

88. Fabric manipulation 9

89. Fabric manipulation 10

90. Fabric manipulation 11

91. Fabric manipulation 12

92. Fabric manipulation 13

93. Fabric manipulation 14

94. Fabric manipulation 15

95. Fabric manipulation 16

96. Fabric manipulation 17

97. Fabric manipulation 18

98. Fabric manipulation 19

99. Fabric manipulation 20

100. History of fashion
1837 to 1913

101.  Early Victorian Era 1837-1856
 Mid Victorian Era 1860-1882
 Late Victorian Era 1883-1913
Content-

102. e
Early Victorian Era
1837-1856

103. 1840 Dresses
• By the collpsed sleeve was
much narrower, But still
retained A restrictive seam line
on Dropped shoulder.
• These dresses had a very
small tight fitting Waist.
• Cashmere shawl was brought
back into fashion about 1840.
Early Victorian Era
1837-1860

104. Early Victorian Era
1845 Dresses
• At This Time The Boned
Bodice Was Even Elongated
Into A “ V ’’ Shape And The
Shoulder Sleeve Line
Dropped Even More.
• The Victorian Women Could
Also Emphasize Modesty By
Wearing Freshly Launderd
Detachable White Collars
Ans False Undersleeve
Called Engage nets.

105. Early Victorian Era
1845 Dresses
• .The Victorian Women Could
Also Emphasis Modesty By
Wearing Freshly Launderd
Detchable White Collars Ans
False Undersleeve Called
Engage nets.

106. Early Victorian Era
 1856 Crinoline Cage
• At This Time Evening
Dresses Totally Women
Shoulder In A Style Called “
Bertha”.
 1857 Houte Couture
• These Dresses Were
Decorated With Flowers And
Ribbons

107. .
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Mid Victorian Era
1860 - 1882

108. MID Victorian Era 1860-
1882
 Sometimes It Is Called The First
Bustle Era.
 In 1864 World Designed An
overskirt Which Could Be Lifted
And Button Up By Tabs.
 Soft Bustle Fashion Silhouette
1867-1875
• At This Time The Fullness
Bounced Up To T-
he Back Of The Skirt Creating A
Polonaise Crinolines.
• Cage Suddenly Disappeared
Evolving Into Tournures Of
Bustles.

109. Mid Victorian Era
 1872 Soft Bustle Ball Gown.
• Ball Gown Always Had Train.
 1875 Soft Polonaise Bustle
 The Princesses Line And The
Cuirase Bodice 1878
 Sometimes It Is Called The
First Bustle Era

110. llllllll
Late Victorian Era
1883-1901

111. Late Victorian Era
 The New Hard Bustle Of
1883.
 La Grande Jatte By Georges
Seurat 1884-188
 1890 Evening Gown With
Train.

112. Late Victorian Era
 The S-Bend Corset And
Pouter Pigeon Effect
 The French Called The Era
1895 to 1914 La Belle
Époque.
• It Was An Époque Of
Beautiful Clothes And The
Peak Of Luxury Living.

113. Late Victrorian Era
 1895 The Leg Of Mutton
Sleeves

114. Late Victrorian Era
 Tailor Made Ready To Wear Costume
• The Tailor’s Made Was Called A Suit.
• Middle Class Women Wore Them Wi-
them Shirt Waist Blouses

115. Tribal art of gond

116. The gond tribe, is one of the largest adivasi communities of Madhya Pradesh and chhattisgardh in
central india. Their art stems from their belief that ‘‘viewing a god image begets good luck’’ which led
them to decorate their houses with traditional motifs which are now transposed to paper & canvas.
Images are mostly from nature while man takes second place.
•Color used by them – they use natural colours which are extracted from colored
soil, charcoal, plant, sap, rice paste, cow dung and leaves. The main colors used are red,
yellow, blue, black & white.

117. •Shapes used by them – they used organic shapes for example leaves, animals & trees.
•Patterns used by them – They used delicate patterns in their design, which were
inspired from nature