Comparative study between bio scouring bleaching and traditional scouring and bleaching and cotton fabric dyeing with reactive dye.

2. Topics Name
Comparative study between bio
scouring bleaching and traditional
scouring and bleaching and cotton
fabric dyeing with reactive dye.

3. Introduction
Theoretical Foundations
Experimental Techniques & Methodology
Result & Discussion
Conclusion
Topic Sequence

4. Now a days, it is becoming important to consumers that the clothes
they buy are well made and of high quality material. Additionally, a
growing number of consumers are also interested in clothes that are
produced in an environmentally friendly way without the extensive
use of harsh chemicals. Enzymatic Scouring or Bio-Scouring can
simply be defined as the application of living organisms and their
components to remove the natural and added impurities. It is not an
industry in itself, but an important technology that will have a large
impact on many industrial sectors in the future. Bio Scouring firms
will rely mainly on inexpensive substrates for biosynthesis, processes
that will function at low temperatures, and will consume little energy
and water as well. In Textile Processing the Enzymatic removal
of impurities also reduces the total chemical consumptions and
possibilities of accident.
Introduction

5. Cotton
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or
protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of
the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose.
The botanical purpose of cotton fiber is to aid in seed
dispersal. The plant is a shrub native to tropical and
subtropical regions around the world, including
the America, Africa, and India. The greatest diversity of
wild cotton species is found in Mexico, followed
by Australia and Africa. Cotton was independently
domesticated in the Old and New Worlds. The English name
derives from the Arabic (al) qutn ‫ط,ن‬ْ‫,ن‬ ‫ق‬ُ, which began to be
used circa 1400 AD.
Theoretical Foundations

6. Theoretical Foundations
Types of cotton:
There are four commercially-grown species of cotton, all domesticated
in antiquity:
Gossypium hirsutum – upland cotton, native to Central
America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern Florida, (90% of world
production)
Gossypium barbadense – known as extra-long staple cotton, native to
tropical South America (8% of world production)
Gossypium arboreum – tree cotton, native to India and Pakistan (less
than 2%)
Gossypium herbaceum – Levant cotton, native to southern Africa and
the Arabian Peninsula (less than 2%)

7. Leading producer countries:
Top ten cotton producers—2011 (480-pound bales)
 People's Republic of China 33.0 million bales
 India 27.0 million bales
 United States 18.0 million bales
 Pakistan 10.3 million bales
 Brazil 9.3 million bales
 Uzbekistan 4.6 million bales
 Australia 4.2 million bales
 Turkey 2.8 million bales
 Turkmenistan 1.6 million bales
 Greece 1.4 million bales

8. Reactive dye
A dye, which is capable of reacting chemically with a substrate
to form a covalent dye substrate linkage, is known as reactive
dye. Here the dye contains a reactive group and this reactive
group makes covalent bond with the fibre polymer and act as
an integral part of fibre. This covalent bond is formed between
the dye molecules and the terminal –OH (hydroxyl) group of
cellulosic fibres on between the dye molecules and the terminal
–NH2 (amino) group of polyamide or wool fibres.

9. Which Fibers can be dyed with Reactive Dye:
By reactive dyes the following fibres can be dyed successfully:
1) Cotton, rayon, flax and other cellulosic fibres.
2) Polyamide and wool fibres.
3) Silk and acetate fibres.
It covers a wide range of color spectrum and includes shades varying
from bright to heavy dark like,
a. Violet
b. Blue
c. Green
d. Red
e. Black
f. Yellow
g. Etc.

10. General Features of a Reactive Dye:
Molecule
W = water solubilising group
D = chromophore
B = bridging group
RG = reactive group
X = leaving group3
W
D B RG ------X
Principles Structure of Reactive Dye

11. Advantages:
Full Color Gamut
Brilliant, bright colors
Covalent fixation, high Wash Fastness (WF)
Varying reactivities
Various temperatures including low energy (cold
dyeing)
Various methods of application
Inexpensive to apply (but dyes expensive)

12. Disadvantages:
Incomplete fixation (problem with hydrolysis)
Need for wash-off (for high WF)
Need for high concentrations of salt affect natural balance
of watercourses
High pH
Some dyes are “AOX” – potentially harmful to the
environment

13. BIO SCOURING:
To create high-quality end-products, the
manufacturing process must be of high
quality. That is why a good way to start the
elemental textiles process off right is to
begin with a natural enzymatic bio-
scouring the sustainable alternative to
harsh scouring.

14. Advantages of Bio-Scouring over
Traditional scouring:
The advantages of bio scouring comparing to
traditional scouring can be found in all of
the following perspectives----
Quality perspective
Economic perspective
Environmental perspective

15. Experimental
Techniques &
Methodology

16. Bio-scouring & Bleaching Experiment:
To find out the suitable effect of Bio-scouring, we do the experiment of bio-
scouring at different concentration same pH and temperature. The amount
and calculation of the chemicals are described below:
Recipe for Bio-scouring & Bleaching:
 Fabric weight= 12.15gm
 Anti creasing agent=1g/l
 Bio-Scouring = 2,3,4 g/l
 Detergent = 0.5g/l
 Sequestering agent = 0.25g/l
 Stabilizer = 0.8g/l
 Ammonia buffer =2ml/l
 H2O2= 2,3,4 g/l,
 Detergent = 0.5g/l
 H2O2 Killer=0.2g/l
 Acetic Acid= 0.5g/l
 L:R = 1:30
 Temperature= 900
C
 Time= 30min

17. Bio- scouring & bleaching curve:
1
30° c
21 3 4 6 75
30 min
90 ° c
Drained
8.9 10
60 ° c 80 ° c
10 min10 min
DrainedDrained

18. Traditional Scouring & Bleaching:
Recipe:
Detergent = 0.5g/l
Sequestering agent = 0.25g/l
Stabilizer = 0.5g/l
NaOH =2,3,4 g/l
H2O2= 2,3,4 g/l
Anti creasing agent=1g/l
H2O2killer = 0.2g/l
Acetic Acid= 0.5ml/l
Detergent=0.5g/l
Fabric weight= 12.15gm
L:R = 1:30
 Temperature= 1000
C
 Time= 30min

19. Traditional scouring & bleaching curve:
1
30° c
21 3 4 65
30 min
100 ° c
Drained
7,8 9
60 ° c 80 ° c
10 min10 min
DrainedDrained

20. Weight Loss%:
The actual wt. of the sample and after scoured sample
wt. difference is wt. loss %.
The wt. of the scoured sample is less than un-scoured
sample.
Standard wt. loss% is 4-8%. If it is 5% then we may say
that the sample is well scoured but if it is ›5% then it is
not acceptable as it means the fiber damage has taken
place. If it is ‹4% then the sample is not well scoured
and there are impurities still present in the sample.

21. Absorbency Test:
 Immersion Test
 Drop Test and
 Wicking Test

22. Immersion Test:
A sample is more absorbent it is more scoured.
(1cm*1cm) sample is placed on a water surface and
time taken by it to be immersed is noted. The
standard time is 5s. if it is up to 10s we may say that
the sample is well scoured. If it is >10s then the
scouring has not taken place properly.

23. Drop Test:
In This test, colored solution of 0.1% direct dye (Red) is used.
The solution is dropped on to the sample by pippet and its
absorbency is estimated visually. The drop may have various
shapes when absorbed.
Two things can be measured:
The time is taken is s to absorb one drop of solution. Standard
time is 0.5sto 0.8s, up to 1s is allowed. But in this test some
errors are bound to creep in because the time taken for
absorption is very little and absorbency is estimated visually. It
may vary from person to person’s perception.
If the drop is circularly absorbed, then we say that sample is
very uniformly scoured. If drop is circular but has small area,
then the sample is uniformly scoured. If it is almost circular
then it is uniformly scoured too. If it is not circular then it is not
uniformly scoured.

24. Wicking Test:
A 5cm*18cm sample is taken and a mark is made
at the 1cm from bottom. Then 1cm portion is
immersed into 1% direct dye solution for 5 min
and then the distance traveled by the colored
solution about 1cm mark is noted. The acceptable
range is 30-50mm.

25. Dyeing Process Bio scoured-bleached fabric:
Recipe:
Fabric weight=10gm
Reactive dye = 1%
Sequestering agent = 0.25g/l
Glauber salt=30g/l
Na2CO3=10g/l
Acetic Acid= 0.5g/l
Soap=2g/l
Temperature= 600
C
Time=60min
L:R = 1:30

26. Dyeing curve:
1
30° c
1 2
60 min
60 ° c
Drained
5 6
60 ° c 90 ° c
10 min10 min
DrainedDrained
3
4

27. Rubbing fastness (Crock meter):
The test determines the fastness of a dyestuff to either dry
or wet rubbing. For testing, the sample is cut 15 cm length
and 5 cm width. The specimen is placed on the base of the
crockmeter sand a square of white test cloth is rubbed on
to the colored sample by means of crockmeter finger. The
white test cloth has to be cotton which is desized-
bleached but without finished. In case of dry test
condition, the white test cloth is directly attached to the
top of the crockmeter finger. In case of wet test condition
the crocking cloth is wetted with distilled water and is
rubbed 20 times by to and for movement 91 rub/sec) in 10
cm long by turning the handle. The test is done both for
warp for warp and weft direction.

28. Color Fastness to Wash:
Principal of Wash Fastness: A specimen/dyed material
with specified adjacent fabric (MFF) are laundered
rinsed and dried. The specimen/composite sample is
treated under appropriate condition in a chemical
bath for recommended time. The abrasive action is
accomplished by the use of a liquor ration and an
appropriate number of steel balls. The change in color
of the specimen (dyed sample) and the staining of the
adjacent fabric (MFF) is assessed by recommended
grey scales (1-5).

29. Results & Discussions
Table: 01 Variation in concentration for bio-scouring & bleaching (Weight loss%)
Sample
no.
Concentra
tion of
Temp. °c Weight
(gm)
(Before)
Weight
(gm)
(After)
Weight
loss %
Bio-S H2O2
1 2g/l 2g/l 90°c 12.15 11.81 2.8%
2 3g/l 3g/l 90°c 12.15 11.80 2.9%
3 4g/l 4g/l 90°c 12.15 11.70 3.7%

30. Results & Discussions
Table: 02 Traditional Scouring and Bleaching (Weight loss %)
Sample
no.
Concentra
tion of
Temp. °c Weight
(gm)
(Before)
Weight
(gm)
(After)
Weight
loss %
Caustic
Soda
H2O2
1 2g/l 2g/l 90°c 12.15 11.85 2.5%
2 3g/l 3g/l 90°c 12.15 11.83 2.6%
3 4g/l 4g/l 90°c 12.15 11.75 3.3%

31. Comparison between Bio-Scoured bleached &
Conventional scoured Bleached Wt. loss %

32. Comparison between Bio-Scoured bleached &
Conventional scoured Bleached Immersion Test (in sec)

33. Comparison between Bio-Scoured bleached &
Conventional scoured Bleached Drop Test (in sec)

34. Absorbency Test of Bio and Traditional Scouring and
Bleaching Sample DropTest
Serial No. Bio Scouring Bleaching
Sample
Traditional Scouring Bleaching
Sample
1
2
3

35. Comparison between Bio-Scoured bleached &
Conventional scoured Bleached Wicking Test (in sec)

36. Absorbency Test of Bio and Traditional Scouring and
Bleaching Sample Wicking Test
Serial No. Bio Scouring Bleaching
Sample
Traditional Scouring Bleaching
Sample
1
2
3

37. Rubbing Fastness (Wet and Dry) Bio Scoured-bleached
Serial No. Direction Dry Rub Wet Rub
01 Warp Way 4/5 4/5
02 Warp Way 4/5 4/5
03 Warp Way 4/5 4/5
04 Weft Way 4/5 4/5
05 Weft Way 4/5 4/5
06 Weft Way 4/5 4/5

38. Rubbing Fastness (Wet and Dry) Conventioanal
Scoured-bleached
Serial No. Direction Dry Rub Wet Rub
01 Warp Way 4/5 4/5
02 Warp Way 4/5 4/5
03 Warp Way 4/5 4/5
04 Weft Way 4/5 4/5
05 Weft Way 4/5 4/5
06 Weft Way 4/5 4/5

39. Color Fastness to Wash:
Test Description Result
Color fastness to wash (ISO-105-C03) Grade
Color change in shade staining in Acetate 4/5
Color change in shade staining in Cotton 4/5
Color change in shade staining in Polyamide 4/5
Color change in shade staining in Polyester 4/5
Color change in shade staining in Acrylic 4/5
Color change in shade staining in Wool 4/5

40. Color Fastness to Wash:
Tested Sample 1 Multi Fiber Fabric Wash

41. Conclusion
Bio-Scouring & Bleaching process is also called Eco-friendly
Scouring & Bleaching .This process is applied to cellulose
textiles that produces permanent effects by the use of enzymes.
Bio-Scouring & bleaching removes protruding fibers and slubs
from fabrics by the use of enzymes, significantly reduces,
softens fabric hand and provides a smooth fabric appearance,
with high whiteness especially for knitwear.
Wash fastness of the enzyme treated sample before dyeing is
very poor but after dyeing is very good. Lastly we can say that
this is a very important topic through which we have learned
more about Bio-Scouring-Bleaching treatment.

42. The electric shortage, in our country drove people
to use energy saving technology and the water
pollution caused by textile effluents, particularly
from pretreatment ,leaves dye houses no
alternative but to choose an environmentally
friendly process .it is not clear why bio process has
not yet been widely accepted by industries .But we
can say that ,it is only a matter of time that the
drawbacks will be conquered and it will be the
future of textile processing.