Extensive research was completed recently headed by Claire who developed a controlled experiment to investigate optimum light source specifications for foundation colour matching within cosmetics stores and concessions...
Talk by Claire Hamill BA(Hons) & Anna Sandgren BA(Hons) Msc, both Lighting Designers at Nulty Lighting
13. A global retail lighting issue
What LED light source can enhance and improve the
experience of skin and skin care products within the cosmetic
retail environment?
14. A global retail lighting issue
What LED light source can enhance and improve the
experience of skin and skin care products within the cosmetic
retail environment?
15. PHASE I – FIELD RESEARCH
Undertaken in 5 flagship department stores in central London
16. Key considerations:
1. Colour Matching of foundation
2.Emotional connection in the space to encourage dwell time
3.Illumination of merchandise
17. Key findings were:
Each department store reported various difficulties with
matching colour foundation and choosing colours due to the
overhead lighting.
18. Key findings were:
Consultants stated that a common practice is to send customers
outside with a hand held mirrors, to review colour matching in
daylight, in order to secure a best match colour for the
costumer.
23. PHASE II – FOCUS GROUP
Industry feedback; 30 visual merchandiser, store designers and make up
consultants from 8 leading cosmetic brands.
24. LED modules with different spectral power disruptions for further testing
PHASE III – PILOT DAY
Experiment in real life set up conditions – Cosmetic company London HQ
34. Question 1:
2700 K 95+ and 2700 K Beauty are significantly more preferred than other
sources by subjects, p<0.05. There is no significant difference between
these two lamps and Daylight, p>0.05.
6500 K 85 and 4000 K 95+ are the least preferred of lamps in this category,
p<0.01.
Satisfaction under different light sources
35. 2700 K 95+ and 2700 K Vib are significantly more preferred than other
sources by subjects, p<0.01. They were voted significantly more than
Daylight, p<0.05.
6500 K 85 and 4000 K 95+ are the least preferred of lamps in this
category, p<0.01.
How well does the foundation appeal to you?
37. How does the light make your skin feel?
The results have been categorised into positive and negative points.
The results are significantly different between all light sources except
two least preferred light sources.
Best Worst
2700 K 95+ Beauty > 2700 K 95+ > 3000 K 95+ > 3000 K Vib > (6500 K
85 & 4000 K 95+)
39. Figure 8 rating of product appearance under the different light sources
How do the products appear under the light source?
6500 K 85 is the best preferred and 4000 K 95+ the least preferred,
p<0.01.
The order of lamp preferences is as follows:
Best Worst
6500 K 85 > 2700 K 95+ Beauty & 3000 K Vib & 3000 K 95+ >
2700 K Vib > 4000 K 95+
40. Figure 9 : Impact of light source on appearance of the colours of the
packaging of the products Again 6500 K 85 is the best preferred but 3000 K 95+ is the least
preferred, p<0.01.
The order of lamp preferences is as follows:
Best Worst
6500 K 85 > 2700 K 95+ Beauty > 3000 K Vib > 2700 K
Vib > 4000 K 95+ > 3000 K 95+
How do the colours on the packaging look?
41. Color Vector Diagram
Rf = 91 Rg = 107Ra = 95
100% Beauty 50% Beauty / 50% Artist 100% Artist
Blending Beauty Series with Artist 3,000K
47. Thank you
Independent lighting research conducted by Nulty
In collaboration with Clinique and UCL
Supported by Xicatio and Mike Stoane Lighting
Editor's Notes
Consultants stated that a common practice is to send customers outside with a hand held mirrors, to review colour matching in daylight, in order to secure a best match colour for the costumer.
This is obviously not idela since in some consessions are tucked away on the retail floor and many costumers will have to embark on this journey to the daylight without the consultant that will have to stay on the shopfloor.
We also found a lot of inconsistencies of light sources used and a shift in colour temperature in some areas which caused an uneven rendering of the merchandise
The lighting is so poor in certain areas that the product are either not illuminated at all or not completing of the merchandise or the other brand VM opportunities. .
As you can see in the images some lighting conditions can almost make you look unhealthy and at least feel vey unwell. Here Claire is looking almost a bit red while I’m in a different part of the store is looking green almost blueis. .
This is obviously not a great start when you are in the store to buy products, the cosmetic industry try to encourage dwell time but in these current lighting conditions you are likely to leave the store before you’ve made your purchase.
Taking info from fields research
Phase 2: Focus group – research workshop
30 visual merchandiser and store designers,
8 leading cosmetic brands
discussion group / workshop.
Phase 3. Experiment –
results of the field research and the focus group.
The objective was to determine which of the six light sources was best suited for 1. colour matching 2 customer dwell time 3 making mercgindise stand out
Location : HQ labs in central London.
Layout : Designed to correlate with the three key lighting issues and to accommodate proper testing of the 6 selected light sources.
Room divided into 4 stations:
Station 1 consisted of initial participant briefing and colour consultation.
Station 2 was initial observation of colour matching under daylight.
Stations 3 and 4 comprised of the testing of the 3 key lighting issues which were colour matching, product display and emotional connection under the 6 selected light sources.
AND THE Light Sources THAT WE USED
The six light sources selected for the pilot day consisted of 3 Xicato Artist series modules, each at 2700K, 3000K and 4000K respectively, all with CRI of 97±. Two others were from the Xicato Vibrant series at 2700K and 3000K, with larger gamut area both with a CRI of 97± and the last source was a CREE module at 6500K, with CRI of 85.
The six light sources selected for the pilot day consisted of
3 Xicato Artist series modules, 2700K, 3000K and 4000K respectively, all with CRI of 97±.
One Xicato Vibrant series at 3000K, CRI of 97±
One addational module with larger gamut 2700k CRI of 97±
the last source was a CREE module at 6500K six thousand five hundred, with CRI of 85.
Station 1.
(1.) Best match (2.) Second best match (3.) Third best match. Best match was then agreed between colour consultant and Participant in day light conditions, this would then identify any changes or distortions of foundation shade against skin tone under artificial light, for example. Third best match in daylight may change to best match under light source 2. due to colour discrimination. In turn this will highlight what light source is best and worst for the task.
To understand the importance of emotional connection, the participants were each given a mirror to review how they looked and felt in daylight. This step was also repeated in Zones 3 & 4.
Merchandise Appearance
Subjects were asked to rate the appearance of the products under different light sources.
Not to go in to too much detail however I would like to point a few key elements on how we designed the questionnaire
The questionnaire was designed to cover three different subjects; foundation-skin colour matching, general mood and skin appearance and merchandise appearance under different light conditions.
Following the pilot day,
the results of the questionnaires where collated and analysis by satiations at UCL.
The light source that came out best over all in all sections was the 2700K gumet area high cri 97 plus
Our initial intension was to define the existing problems and try to find a solution that would better improve the current lighting however
results far exceeded our expectations which was the introduction of a new LED module by Xicatio
The collected data was pooled and analysed statistically. The assumption of normality was denied, p&lt;0.01. Figure 2 shows the summary of the data. Friedman’s analysis of variance shows that the differences between results of the seven light sources are significant for all three questions, p&lt;0.01. Wilcoxon Sign test was adopted to compare results from pairs of light sources.
The second set of questions aimed to assess subjects’ mood and judgment of skin appearance under different lighting conditions.
Subjects were asked regarding the impact of light on their skin appearance. The data have been categorised into positive and negative points (Figure 4). The results show that 2700 K Vibrant is the best light according to the subjects, p&lt;0.01 and 6500 K 85 and 4000 K 95+ are the least preferred light sources, p&gt;0.05.
Merchandise Appearance
Subjects were asked to rate the appearance of the products under different light sources.
The results show that 6500 K 85 is the best preferred and 4000 K 95+ the least preferred light source, p&lt;0.01 (Figure 8)
Subjects were asked to describe the colour of packaging and products using multiple choice answers. The results were divided into positive and negative points. 6500 K 85 was reported the most preferred gaining 54% positive points and 3000 K 95+ was reported the least preferred gaining only 20% positive points, p&lt;0.01 (Figure 9).
After months of development, with constant dialog and testing between the team,
a set of LED modules were created that allowed for final testing with the same 3 step criteria as the pilot day, these again were colour matching, merchandise display and emotional connection.
The final module was collectively chosen by the team resulting in the conceptualization of Xicato’s Beauty module.
a new concept store in Covent Garden,
Installated LED Module using design skill for appication lighting
1. Lighting that attracts customers in the first place
Welcoming ….engaging
2. Merchandise that stands out against its surroundings
A lighting design that evokes an emotional connection within the space and the brand
that stimulates a feeling of health and wellbeing, encouraging dwell time and engaging the customer
A lighting design that that aids colour matching with an improved quality of light , creating a flawless brand experience.
Our research identified that in environments where you look in the mirror and reflect on yourself and inner being, for example changing rooms, toilets in public spaces, restaurants were you have mirrors, cosmetic counters, you become emotionally connected to the environment and self aware of your present’s with in the space
Creating an emotional connection with the environment, through lighting as a responsive tool, to build connection with your surroundings.
Previously lighting reaching and technologies has looked at who to the build environment but what about the human factor, what about us now are looking at also light on humans with in the space and we best light them…… making lighting personal……hopfully this research will help other designers and retails better improve the lighting condtions…sharing of information will not just help us but help improve the industry in stores