Xicato Beauty Series
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To view the full presentation with voice-over, please go to bit.ly/1NrtehE Skin tones are complex and unique to every individual, with elements like skin coloring, freckles, hair, veins and fine lines contributing to a person’s complexion. Finding the right light source that is both accurate and flattering to various skin tones is therefore a challenge. As with the popular Vibrant Series® Xicato has once again collaborated with industry experts and researchers to develop a light source that successfully meets this challenge. During extensive cosmetic trials comparing multiple light sources, Xicato Beauty Series emerged as the light source that best balanced the accurate color discrimination of daylight, with the comfortable warmth of incandescent. Participants in the study reported feeling better and looking better under Beauty Series, and rated the light as the best overall.
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Xicato Beauty Series
- 2. 35% 65% INDUSTRY VALUE Skincare Other €487bn globally in 2017 The Cosmetic Industry 2
- 3. The Cosmetics Industry: lighting issues 3
- 4. What LED light source can enhance and improve the experience of skin and skin care products within the cosmetic retail environment? 4
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- 10. 1. Optimal color matching of foundation 2. Impactful illumination of merchandise 3. Emotional connection in the space to encourage dwell time Key Lighting issues 10
- 11. 2015 research into lighting for beauty • Collaboration among: – Nulty+ Lighting Design – Global Cosmetics Brand Leader – University College London • Xicato provided LED modules used for study • Phases 1-3 are complete and Phase 4 is on-going 11 Phase 1 • Field Research Phase 2 • Focus group with designers, cosmetic consultants and store owners Phase 3 • Pilot study in real life installation Phase 4 • More longitudinal study, monitoring customer experience, sales activity and customer returns for a period of 1 year
- 12. Phase 3 Research – Light Sources used for Experiment 12 Wavelength Light Source 6500K-85 2700K-95+ 3000K-95+ 4000K-95+ 2700K- 95+Vibrant 3000K- 95+Vibrant CCT 6444 2707 2981 4139 2710 3060 x 0.314 0.457 0.435 0.372 0.447 0.425 y 0.328 0.406 0.397 0.363 0.389 0.387 Ra 8 80 97 97 96 95 97 Ra14 71 96 96 95 95 97 R9 1 98 95 88 92 98 Daylight Beauty Series
- 13. Phase 3 Research Goal: Find light spectrum to optimize: • A feeling of comfort for customers • Meaningful beauty consultation: reducing mismatches in colour foundation • The optimization of product displays Subjects • 52 female volunteers between the ages of 18 and 54, predominantly from the cosmetics industry – 12 had medium skin tones – 35 had moderately fair skin tones – 5 had very fair skin tones 13 Phase 1 • Field Research Phase 2 • Focus group with designers, cosmetic consultants and store owners Phase 3 • Pilot study in real life installation Phase 4 • More longitudinal study, monitoring customer experience, sales activity and customer returns for a period of 1 year
- 14. Phase 3 Research – Experimental Setup • Three makeup stations, each with mirrors, sample merchandise and sets of products. Aiming and light levels were set and consistent. – One station with daylight conditions, used as reference – Two stations with three different sets of test light sources in each station • 6 different light sources were evaluated by all participants 14
- 15. Phase 3 Research – Process & Data Collection 15 Foundation swatches applied by an expert on to the participants using daylight as benchmark for ‘good, better, best’
- 16. Phase 3 Research – Process & Data Collection 16 The ‘good, better, best’ foundations, POS displays and general wellbeing assessed under 6 different test spectra
- 17. Phase 3 Research – Data Collection 17
- 18. Phase 3 Research – Data Collection 18
- 19. UCL’s Analysis Notes: 1. 2700K Vib in UCL’s report = what is now launched as Beauty Series 2. Excerpts only shown. Full report available 19
- 20. COLOR MATCHING – RESULTS 20
- 21. Question 1: 2700K 95+ and 2700K Vib are significantly more preferred than other sources by subjects, p<0.05. There is no significant difference between these two lamps and Daylight, p>0.05. 6500K 85 and 4000K 95+ are the least preferred of lamps in this category, p<0.01. Colour matching results: subjects' satisfaction under different light sources How well foundation matches your skin? 21
- 22. 2700K 95+ and 2700K Vib are significantly more preferred than other sources by subjects, p<0.01. They were voted significantly more than Daylight, p<0.05. 6500K 85 and 4000K 95+ are the least preferred of lamps in this category, p<0.01. Colour matching results: subjects' satisfaction under different light sources How well does the foundation appeal to you? 22
- 23. The statistical analysis of the results for different light sources shows 2700K Vib & 2700K 95+ are the most preferred light sources, p<0.01. 6500K 85 is the least preferred followed by 4000K 95+, p<0.01. Colour matching results: subjects' satisfaction under different light sources Would you buy this foundation? 23
- 24. GENERAL MOOD & APPEARANCE – RESULTS 24
- 25. Results of the question on subjects’ mood can be seen in Figures 3 and 4. The results have been categorized into positive and negative points. The results are significantly different between all light sources except two least preferred light sources. How does the light make your skin feel? Best Worst 2700K Vib > 2700K 95+ > 3000K 95+ > 3000K Vib > (6500K 85 & 4000K 95+) 25
- 26. Figure 5 Appearance of imperfections under different light sources 2700 K Vib is voted as the best and 6500K 85 the least preferred, p<0.01. The order of preferences towards other sources are as below; Do your imperfections stand out more? Best Worst 2700K Vib > 3000K 95+ > (2700K 95+ & 3000K Vib & 4000K 95+) > 6500K 85 26
- 27. Table 2 Reported skin imperfections for each light source 27
- 28. Figure 6 Skin appearance under different light sources 2700 K Vib is voted the best and 6500 K 85 the worst light source in this category, p<0.01. The order of lamp preferences is as follows: Does this light source complement your skin? Best Worst 2700K Vib > (3000K 95+ & 2700K 95+) > 3000K Vib > 4000K 95+ > 6500K 85 28
- 29. Figure 7 Subjects satisfaction of light source in this area Again 2700 K Vib is the best preferred and 6500 K 85 the least preferred, p<0.01. The order of lamp preferences is as follows: How well would you rate the light source? Best Worst 2700K Vib > (3000K 95+ & 2700K 95+) > 3000K Vib > 4000K 95+ > 6500K 85 29
- 30. MERCHANDISE APPEARANCE – RESULTS 30
- 31. Figure 10 Assessment of how appealing the products looked under the different light sources Here the result is as simple as the figure shows: Best Worst 2700 K 95+ & 3000 K Vib & 6500 K 85 > 2700 K Vib & 4000 K 95+ & 3000 K 95+ How appealing does the merchandise look? 33
- 32. Figure 11 Willingness of subject to purchase products under the different light sources 6500 K 85 and 2700 K 95+ are voted the best light source in this category, p<0.01. The order of lamp preferences is as follows: Best Worst 2700 K 95+ & 6500 K 85 > 3000 K Vib > 2700 K Vib & 4000 K 95+ & 3000 K 95+ Would you purchase any of these products under these light conditions? 34
- 33. Conclusions A 2700K light source with a CRI of 95+ and a color point below the Black Body Locus is an interesting choice for task, accent and general lighting in cosmetics make-over and selling areas. The main points leading to this conclusion are: • Color Matching – Beauty Series and Artist 2700K were significantly preferred for the questions: • How well the foundation 1 [the best matched foundation] matches your skin? (Even there is no significant difference between these two lamps and daylight). • How well does the foundation appeal to you? (They were voted significantly more than Daylight) • General mood and appearance – Beauty Series was significantly preferred for the question: How does the light make your skin feel? • Merchandise – Clearly this is packaging dependent and there were no overall patterns. In terms of merchandise appearance, when answering the question ‘would you buy these products’ 2700K 95+ and 6500K 85 came out top. 35
- 34. IMG_6906.JPG First installation Lighting that attracts customers in the first place 36
- 35. First installation Merchandise that stands out against its surroundings 37
- 36. IMG_6970.JPG First installation Lighting that makes an emotional connection 38
- 37. Possible Beauty Series Applications • Anywhere the important subject is PEOPLE – Where you want people to feel comfortable, attractive, confident, and good about themselves – Where you want people to linger, browse, or socialize • Where might this be? – Cosmetic counters – Fitting rooms – Bars and restaurants – Yoga or exercise studios – Hotel lobbies and meeting rooms – Commercial lobbies and meeting rooms – High-end hotel rooms and residential 39
- 38. Final Thoughts and Specifications 40
- 39. The Xicato Custom Solution Process Application Research Solution Specification 41
- 40. Beauty Series Color Specs 42 Ra R1 R2 R3 R4 R5 R6 R7 R8 R9 R10 R11 R12 R13 R14 R15 GAIBB Beauty Series 95 96 96 97 94 95 92 94 95 95 92 91 88 95 99 97 133 TM-30: Rf 91, Rg 107
- 41. Beauty Series c/w Artist Series 43 Below the BBL Big Gamut (Rg 107) Very high Rf (91) ON the BBL Perfect Rg (102) Extremely high Rf (96)
- 42. Beauty Series Electrical Specs 44 Part Number LES (mm) Nom. CCT Nom. Output (lm) Drive Current (mA) Forward Voltage (Vf) Power (W) Lumen Output (Typ) Efficacy Min Typ Max XTM19BT0113CCA 19 2700 1300 700 17.3 22.3 24.8 15.6 1300 83 500 16.8 21.7 24.2 10.9 965 89 350 16.4 21.2 23.7 7.4 720 97 XTM19BT0120CCA 19 2700 2000 1050 19.8 25.1 27.9 26.4 2000 76 700 19.1 24.3 27.1 17.0 1400 82 500 18.7 23.8 26.6 11.9 1055 89 350 18.3 23.4 26.2 8.2 800 98
- 43. Thank you for allowing us to enlighten you. 45 Xicato Inc. 101 Daggett Dr. San Jose CA 95234 Xicato.com info@xicato.com +1 866 223 8395
Editor's Notes
- Thank you for taking the time to learn more about Xicato products. We at Xicato are passionate about lighting, and about what lighting can do to make peoples’ lives more beautiful, more healthy, more productive, and more enjoyable. Today, we are going to talk about the Beauty Series; a revolutionary new light source specifically designed, in partnership with lighting and cosmetics professionals and backed by third party trials, to make people look good and feel good, while at the same time providing high color rendering with an enhanced gamut that facilitates cosmetic foundation selection in beauty concessions.
- According to the latest market research, rising consumer incomes and changing lifestyles are driving the global beauty care products industry, which is forecasted to reach approximately 487 billion euro, or about 555 billion USD, by 2017. Every shopping mall and main street throughout the world has cosmetics departments, stores and concessions. Almost all department stores locate the cosmetics department at the Ground Floor entrance, because the cosmetics concession takes in more revenue than all other departments combined.
- Lighting of cosmetic concessions within retail environments is a crucial design element -- for meaningful beauty consultations, for the optimization of product displays, and for the feeling of comfort that attracts customers in the first place. Yet little tailored research has gone into cosmetics store lighting. Let’s look at some issues ….
- Color portrayal is vital. One department store can house up to 80 or more different brands; each brand has many colors of foundations, and even more colors if you include all shades of shadows, lipsticks, eye liners, etc. Therefore, one department store could end up having hundreds or even thousands of different colors and shades at any one time. To see all these colors properly, a full spectrum, high CRI source is obviously essential.
- And lighting is critical for the color matching function that enables effective foundation choices. Foundation is a color pigment-based liquid applied to skin to create a flawless look… to cover up imperfections, blemishes and dark circles. Other color applications built on foundation include lipsticks and eyeshadows.
- A major cause of returns – 80% with Estee Lauder – are related to foundation mismatch to skin tone… what looked correct in the shop, did not look good out of doors. Therefore at least one major department store, Liberty’s in the UK, has gone as far as mounting mirrors next to the window in order to utilize daylight when checking colors of makeup and color-matching foundations. Taking a mirror outside on the street is hardly an alternative… and what do you do when the sun is not shining, particularly on short winter days?
- Beyond color matching, it is vital that lighting creates a branding environment that creates a strong, positive impression on customers and where they can feel good about themselves -- beautiful, powerful, and confident -- which in turn encourages an emotional connection and loyalty to the brand and its products. Here are Claire and Anna in two different Beauty Halls during the field research. One looks uncomfortably warm and the other too cool. Nether felt at ease.
- Then there are straightforward fundamentals that are sometimes not met with metal halide, fluorescent, or even LED lamps. Here, for example, the color shift of conventional metal halide lighting is damaging the visual impression of merchandise….. (this is Liberty’s in London)
- ….. Not to mention the negative impact of atrocious lighting design.
- We are back to the three major goals of cosmetics concession lighting. These multiple requirements can make it difficult to specify lighting design. Lighting that is best for choosing correct foundation and color matching is not necessarily the same as for making customers feel good, or making displayed cosmetics stand out from their surrounding.
- In 2015, Xicato was asked to provide technical support to research being conducted by Nulty+ Lighting Design, the University College London, and a major global cosmetics brand, to study different light sources and characteristics, and to discover what lighting attributes were consistently impactful on the three major success metrics. It began with field research in five flagship department stores in central London. Customers and in-store beauty managers were interviewed to carefully define the problems. In the second phase, a focus group consisting of 30 visual merchandisers and store designers from 8 leading cosmetic brands, led by 3 lighting designers from Nulty+, selected six different light sources as leading candidates for further testing.
- The six light sources included different CCT, CRI, and color balance combinations. . The spectral power distribution curves of these sources are shown in this graph. One was a 6500K, 85 CRI LED source with a color temperature similar to daylight. Three others were Xicato Artist Series modules — indicated as “95+” — that provided halogen-quality lighting at 2700K, 3000K, and 4000K, respectively. The remaining two also provided extremely high CRI at 3000K and at 2700K, but with extended color gamut — show as “Vibr” — to see if this would improve color discrimination. The 3000K enhanced gamut product was the Xicato Vibrant Series V95, and the 2700K enhanced gamut product evolved over the course of the study into the Beauty Series.
- Xicato provided technical support for the third phase. Researchers designed a pilot study involving physical engagement with 52 test subjects, using different light sources in luminaires directed on different types of merchandise and on skin tones.
- The next three slides show actual photos from the pilot experiment. The Phase 3 experimental design involved three makeup stations, each with a simple table and two chairs, mirrors, sample merchandise and sets of products. Lighting was installed on a track, with consistent aiming and light levels. The first station was in daylight conditions, and was used as a reference station. In each of the other two were mounted 3 of the 6 different light sources being evaluated in the experiment. All participants went through the same process, and evaluated all 6 light sources.
- To begin, consultant color experts applied three foundation color options to the forearm of each participant, representing what they considered a best match, second and third under daylight conditions at the first station. The participants were each given a mirror, and filled out a questionnaire asking them about how the colors matched, and how they looked and felt in daylight.
- Participants then progressed to the other two testing stations, being exposed sequentially to the 6 different light scenes. After each, they were asked the same set of questions as in the daylight station, as well as some additional questions on the merchandise displays The whole process took 30 - 40 minutes per pair of participants.
- Here are examples of the questionnaires completed by the participants. The first asked about color matching – how well each color matched their skin tone under each light source, how they liked the foundation, and whether they would buy it.
- The second category focused on their feelings – how did they feel under the light? how did their skin look? does it complement their skin? and how did they like the light source overall? The third category focused on the appearance of the merchandise and packaging.
- Following the pilot day, the results of the questionnaires where collated for analysis by statisticians at UCL. The results will be discussed in the order covered in the questionnaire: foundation-skin color matching, general mood and skin appearance, and merchandise appearance under different light conditions.
- The collected data was pooled and analyzed statistically. For you statisticians, the assumption of normality was denied, with a p value of less than 0.01. Friedman’s analysis of variance shows that the differences between results of the seven light sources are significant for all three questions, p<0.01. Wilcoxon Sign test was adopted to compare results from pairs of light sources. First we will look at the color matching and preference scores…
- The Beauty Series (again, listed as 2700K Vib), Artist Series (listed as 95-plus), and Daylight were equally preferred when it came to matching foundations, and preferred far better than other sources. 6500K 85CRI provided the worst discrimination.
- The Beauty Series and Artist Series were significantly more preferred when it came to liking the foundations themselves.
- Again, the Beauty Series and Artist Series were significantly preferred when it came to wanting to buy the foundation.
- The second set of questions aimed to assess subjects’ feelings – their mood and judgment of skin appearance under different lighting conditions.
- Subjects were asked about the impact of each light on their skin appearance. The data have been categorized into positive and negative points. The results show that Beauty Series is by far the best light, [click] with significantly higher positive scores (in blue), [click] and far lower negative scores (in orange). p<0.01 and 6500 K 85 and 4000 K 95+ are the least preferred light sources, p>0.05.
- Beauty Series swept the competition again in response to the question about the degree to which it showed skin imperfections, [click] with a far higher percentage of positive scores (in orange this time) and lower negative scores (in blue). 6500K 85CRI did very poorly, with the worst score.
- Here is the specific tabulation of the blemishes noticed by subjects under the different light sources, showing that the Beauty Series was best at complementing their skin, showing the fewest imperfections, and 6500K 85 the least preferred light source in this category, p<0.01 (Figure 6). In response to the question on skin imperfections, subjects reported Beauty Series as the best light source with the lowest number of imperfections reported, and 6500K 85 was the least preferred with the highest number, p<0.01.
- Overall, subjects very substantially preferred how their skin looked under Beauty Series light. Again, 6500K 85CRI did very poorly. (p<0.01)
- In the final analysis, subjects rated Beauty Series as the most preferred light source, overall, with Artist Series 2700K and 3000K also scoring very highly. Overall, 6500K 85 CRI did very poorly. (p<0.01)
- Merchandise Appearance As a balance to the conversation about skin tones, subjects were also asked to rate the appearance of a variety of merchandise – including lipsticks, eye shadows, and other accent makeup in various plastic and metalized containers -- under the different light sources. The results were somewhat different.
- The results show that 6500 K 85 is the best preferred and 4000 K 95+ the least preferred light source, p<0.01 (Figure 8)
- Subjects were asked to describe the colour of packaging and products using multiple choice answers. The results were divided into positive and negative points. 6500 K 85 was reported the most preferred gaining 54% positive points and 3000 K 95+ was reported the least preferred gaining only 20% positive points, p<0.01 (Figure 9).
- When subjects were asked to rate how appealing products appear in different light condition, no clear pattern emerged. High CCT, low CRI light (such as the 6500K 85CRI source) was preferred almost the same as low CCT, high CRI light (such as Artist 2700K) and enhanced gamut light (such as Vibrant Series V95 in 3000K). Some of the lights that scored well on skin, did more poorly.
- The same non-pattern emerged when subjects where asked if they will be willing to buy these products under these lighting condition. 6500K 85CRI and 2700K Artist were voted the best light source in this category. (p<0.01).
- To summarize: Beauty Series and, to a lesser extent, Artist Series 2700K provided the best foundation matching and overall appeal. Beauty Series was significantly preferred in terms of making people feel good about their skin. Merchandise was a different story, showing that it is a different application. There was no pattern, and three very different sources came out on top, possibly reflecting the variety of colors and packaging in cosmetic merchandise overall.
- Beauty Series has been installed in several locations in London, and retailers are tracking such things as return rates and customer satisfaction. So far, the results are encouraging, with very substantially fewer product returns, and many positive comments from both store employees and customers. Beauty Series creates lighting that attracts customers into the store.
- Beauty Series makes merchandise, especially foundation colors, stand out against its surroundings.
- And very importantly, Beauty Series creates a lit environment that creates a positive emotional connection between the customer and the space, which encourages dwell time.
- Because of the warm, comfortable, positive feelings evoked by Beauty Series light, customers are beginning to consider it for more than just cosmetics counters. Beauty Series lighting shows promise for any environment in which the subject is people. People who like how they look feel more confident, and spend more time lingering, browsing, and socializing. This makes Beauty Series a light to consider in Fitting rooms Bars and restaurants Yoga and exercise studios Commercial lobbies and meeting rooms Hotel rooms and homes.
- Beauty Series is yet another example, along with our Artist and Vibrant Series products, of the Xicato custom solution process. First, either through our own initiative or in response to customer inquiries, we identify an application where lighting can make a difference in the beauty and/or productivity of a space. Next, we conduct thorough research with lighting designers, end users, and third party researchers, to create a study and explore what attributes of lighting might impact the success of the space. We then craft a custom solution, iteratively through the research phase, that maximizes the desired effect. Finally, we study our solution to create a detailed specification that allows us to reproduce the solution for the commercial marketplace. Because lighting is so much more than CCT, CRI, or color point, this specification spans the entire visible spectrum, and results in a combination of source die pump and phosphor that we can manufacture to Xicato’s industry leading level of consistency and durability.
- Here are the classic specifications on Beauty Series light. Xicato not only specifies all 15 CIE CRI color parameters. We were the first to embrace the new IES TM-30 standard, finalized in 2015, with its 99 carefully-selected color evaluation samples, its updated color space and color matching function. And we are still the only vendor to publish our TM-30 results. As you can see, The Beauty Series offers a very high CRI Ra value, but with a greatly enhanced gamut, and a color point below the traditional black body curve.
- Here we show a comparison between the Beauty Series, on top, with the Artist Series, on bottom. Both of these products have the same nominal CCT, and very close to the same CIE Ra value. But the enhanced gamut of the Beauty Series acts like a magnifying glass on skin tones, allowing superior color matching, while the below-black-body color point creates a warm glow that people find flattering.
- The Beauty Series is available today in our XTM product line with 19mm light emitting surface, in 1300 and 2000 lumen packages. We welcome inquiries by luminaire manufacturers, lighting designers, and end users alike for a deeper conversation about how Beauty Series --- or one of Xicato’s other outstanding products – can help you create world-class illumination.
- Thank you.