Row Covers & Frost Protection; Gardening Guidebook for Doña Ana County, New Mexico

New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Doña Ana County, NMSU and USDA cooperating.!
Contents: Page
• Plant-of-the-Month 1-4
…Description 1-2
…History 2
…Habitat, Culture, History, Wildlife, Pests 2
& Propagation
…Growing Instructions & Tips 3
…Plant Facts 3
…Article References 4
• March Lunch & Learn Presentation 4
• Got Ideas? (For MG Magazine) 4
• March Honey-Do List 5-6
• UTEP FloraFest: April 27-28 7
• March MG Birthdays 7
• Thanks for the Goodies 7
• Timeline for April 2013 Magazine Info 7
• MG Contact Information: Keep Current 7
• Species Tulips 8-9
• Hybrid Tulip: Did You Know? 9
• Species vs. Hybrid Tulips 10-11
• Species Tulips Facts 11
• Tomatoes
…Topsy Turvy Tomatoes & Peppers 12-13
…Planning & Planting Outstanding Harvest 13
…Super-Sturdy Tomato Cage 14
• When to Plant Vegetable Seed Charts 15
…Seed Starter Chart by Temperature
…Days To Germinate According to Temperature
• Invasives: Oxeye Daisy 16
• MG Intern Profiles: Gail & David Ross 17 17
• Book: Lavender Lover’s Handbook 17
• MG Monthly Meeting Minutes 18-19
• Educational Program: Survey Results 19
• Hotline Assignments 20
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Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine
• Doña Ana County
• U.S. Department of Agriculture
• NMSU College of Agricultural, Consumer and
Environmental Sciences!
Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office
530 North Church Street, Las Cruces, NM 88001
Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652
MG Program Administrator: Jeff Anderson
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
!Magazines can be downloaded at the NMSU website: http://aces.nmsu.edu/damg
! MARCH 2013 ! Vol. 14, Issue 3
Plant-of-the-Month
Master Gardener Hotline Client Data
(February 1 to February 28, 2013)
# Total Contacts 21 Geographic Area Subject of Inquiry
# Telephone Calls 21 Las Cruces 20 Bio-solids 0 Shrubs 8
# Emails 0 Mesilla Park 1 Disease 1 Soils 2
# Issues Addressed 49 Fertilizer 7 Trees 9
Insects 2 Vegetables 4
Irrigation/Water 7 Weeds 2
Lawns 2 Misc. 1
Pruning 4 (Houseplant)
Thank you to Certified Master Gardener Joan Lane for collecting this data.
!
APACHE PLUME (Fallugia paradoxa)
Apache Plume is a southwest native plant of the Rose Family (Rosaceae) that is found
in abundance throughout the Chihuahuan desert, growing wild in arroyos and dry rocky
slopes in pinyon-juniper woodland at elevations of 3,000-8,000 feet. It’s a small deciduous
to semi-evergreen shrub that has the ability to grow throughout the driest areas of the
Southwest—it can be found growing in the four southwestern deserts of the United States:
Mojave, Chihuahuan, Great Basin, and Sonoran with a range from southeastern California
and southern Nevada, to southern Colorado, west Texas, New Mexico and Arizona, to
northern Mexico. Named after famed 19th Century Italian botanist, Abbot Fallugi.
Apache Plume’s eye-catching beauty makes it a plant that would be very desirable for
anyone seeking the look of the southwest in their landscaping. Ideal in a xeriscape setting,
Apache Plume has a lacy, fine texture. It is hardy to about 7,500 to 8,000 feet in elevation.
Apache Plume’s stems are multi-branched and are light colored with flaky, shredded
bark. Flowering occurs between April and June, bringing little white flowers with yellow
centers. Small gray leaves, about 3/4" long cover this plant. Its fruit has long feathery
plumes that can be a white or pink and grow up to 2" long. Apache Plume leaves are very
small, and may remain on the shrub through mild winters.
Article Continues on Page 2

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—March 2013 Page 2
Apache Plume—Continued from Front Page
This shrub can grow up to 6 feet tall and wide and usually requires
no special caring other than being watered occasionally. Under ideal
conditions this plant can reach 8 feet in height and width.
Apache Plume (shown above) bears small, lobed leaves, which are
deep green on top, and rusty beneath. It bears flowers resembling
single white roses, which bloom in spring and summer.
Apache Plume is sometimes confused with the Cliffrose, Cowania
mexicana, (shown below) but can be distinguished by its more shrub-
like appearance, having numerous branches at the base.
Cliffrose (Cowania mexicana)
Apache Plume is drought-tolerant when well established and also
very tolerant of reflected heat. It should be planted only in soil that
drains well and should not be over watered. Don't plant an Apache
plume in or adjacent to irrigated lawns. Instead, plant it in dry spots with
south or west exposures.
Apache Plume is normally semi-evergreen in the Las Cruces area,
although very harsh winter conditions will cause it to drop most of its
leaves. It blooms in the spring and sometimes again in the fall, with 2
inch white rose-like flowers. Plants prefer full sun, are extremely
drought-tolerant, and are hardy to minus 0°F degrees.
The Apache Plume gets its name from the 1-2" long feathery styles
that persist after the petals of the flowers have dropped. When the fruit
has matured, wind carries the seeds by the styles to new locations.
Culture: This native shrub can be pruned into a hedge, although its
natural form is tame and well shaped. Apache Plume is also excellent
for erosion control due to its spreading root system. It is dense and fast
growing, spreading by woody rhizomes, so it will also form an informal
hedge relatively quickly. In good garden soil with organic matter it looks
rangy and produces fewer flowers. Although it naturally forms a
rounded shape, it can look somewhat messy and benefits from
selective pruning once or twice a year, or being cut back to the ground
every few years.
The name Apache Plume is derived from its feathery, delicate-
looking fruits or seeds, which appear after the flowers starting in
the summer. These "plumes" are pinkish-purple in color, about 2
1/2" in diameter grow from a seed-like base at the tips of tangled,
slender branches.
History: This plant's common name is derived from the fact that it
resembled Apache war bonnets. Tewa and other native peoples
used the stem/branches of Apache Plumes to make brooms and
arrow shafts. The Tewa used an infusion of leaves as a shampoo
to promote the growth of hair. The Navajo used Apache Plume as
a tool of witchcraft to cause insanity. They also used the leaves as
an emetic (to cause vomiting) in various ceremonies.
Best Habitat: The Apache Plume prefers full sun, is extremely
drought tolerant, and is hardy to 0°F degrees. It prefers well-
drained soil, although it will tolerate many different types of soil. It
looks best in a landscape if given deep monthly watering through
the hottest time of year once it is established. The regular deep
watering will promote faster growth, fuller foliage and more flowers,
although it actually will live without any extra water (except for
natural rainfall) once established.
Wildlife: The flowers of Apache Plume attract bees and
butterflies, the plants shelter wildlife, and the seeds attract birds.
Pests: None known
Propagation:
Germinates readily from fresh, untreated seed that has not been
allowed to dry out. Seed that has dried must be stratified. Easily
propagated from layers and separation of suckers from horizontal
roots.
…Seed Collection: Collect from August to November when pink
styles of fruits turn white and seed is easily stripped or shaken from
tree. Air-dry seeds and store in cloth bags in dry, well-ventilated
place.
…Seed Treatment: Stratify 30 days at 41 degrees. However, no
treatment may give satisfactory results.
To grow plants from seeds, collect them in the fall and chill them
for 3 months before sowing in the early spring. Sow seeds anytime
or start from softwood cuttings, layering or root suckers.
A better choice, however, is to buy mature plants in 1 gallon to 5
gallon containers at local nurseries in the Southwest where they
are usually found in the nursery’s selection of water-wise plants.

Apache Plume—Continued from Page 2
Growing Instructions
1) Plant Apache Plume in a south or west portion of your landscape
that receives the warmest temperatures. Choose a spot that
receives full, direct sunlight and contains extremely well-draining,
sandy soil. Space the plant six feet away from other vegetation.
2) Water young, newly planted Apache Plumes once a week. Flood the
soil surrounding the shrub with a garden hose. Reduce supple-
mental watering once the shrub becomes established and starts to
produce new foliage and stems. Water mature, established shrubs
once a month during hot summer months and periods of no rainfall
3) Fertilize the Apache Plume in the early spring when the plant is no
longer dormant and new leaves begin to emerge. Apply a 10-10-10
(N-P-K) slow-release fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per square
foot of soil. Spread the fertilizer evenly in a ring around the shrub,
just outside the perimeter of the plant's branches. Mix the fertilizer
granules into the top 1 to 3 inches of soil using a rake. Water the
area thoroughly to activate the fertilizer.
4) Prune the Apache Plume in the late winter while it is still dormant.
Cut out any broken, damaged or diseased stems using a pair of
pruning shears. Make each cut 1/4 inch above a growth node or
dormant bud. Thin the plant by no more than one-third, removing the
oldest stems first.
5) Trim the shrub in the early summer after it flowers. Clip back any
excessive long or straggly stems to shape the plant and keep it
looking presentable.
Growing Tips/Transplanting: The best time to plant most native
shrubs and trees is in the fall, although early spring is the next best
choice. It is very difficult to transplant a mature Apache Plume plant
from its natural habitat in the desert. Digging up the plant will usually kill
it, mainly due to the fact that it separates the plant from its massive root
system. Since the Apache Plume spreads by rhizomes (spreading
stems from underground) a mature plant usually depends on this
spreading root system for survival. However, root sprouts can be
collected with rhizomes in early spring, with better success.
Your best choice, however, is to buy a mature Apache Plume plant at
your local nursery. Nursery stock of Apache Plume in 1 gallon to 5
gallon containers are readily available at your favorite local nursery, and
will transplant successfully into your garden.
Summary: Apache Plume one of the showiest of the Southwestern
native shrubs. It really stands out when the pink, silky-plumed seed
heads develop and cover the tips of the branches for many months. As
a result, Apache plume has become a favorite xeriscape plant in the
Southwest."
APACHE PLUME FACTS
(Fallugia paradoxa)
Botanical name: Fallugia paradoxa
Family Name: Rosaceae
Habit: Semi-evergreen, medium shrub; loosely
branched
Origin: Rocky slopes, open woods & dry washes of
central Texas, New Mexico, Colorado and
Southern California.
Flowers: Five-petaled round white flowers 1”-2” wide with
yellow centers appear from April through June
through the summer. Seedheads are pinkish,
fluffy and long lasting.
Foliage: Aromatic—smells like an attar (i.e. fragrant
essential oil) of roses crossed with quinine.
Heat Tolerance: Plant in a place where plant will get full sun.
Fruit: Feathery achene
Hardiness: Hardy to 0°F; USDA Zones 6a to 10a; very
tolerant of drought, heat, wind and poor soil.
Blooming: For better flowering, some afternoon shade,
especially in desert heat; blooms continually;
flowers on new spring growth
Soil and Water: Requires no irrigation once established; needs
gritty and well-drained soil; does poorly in heavy
clay; extremely drought-tolerant and tolerant to
reflected sun; occasional watering helps
flowering, but watch for root rot.
Fertilization: In spring before new growth, use general
fertilizer.
Pruning: Prune 1-2 times a year or cut to ground if it has
too much dead wood. Usually, pruning is not
needed.
Wildlife: Provides shelter/cover for small mammals and
ground-dwelling birds. Flowers used by
butterflies and bees; cover for packrat middens.
Comments: Fibrous root system--easy to transplant. Takes
a few years for shrubs to root out and develop
some character.
Disadvantages: Tendency to sucker and can be slow to get
established.
Uses: Good companion plant to Yucca glauca
(Soapweed) & Callirhoe involucrate (WineCup)

APACHE PLUME
−Article References−
Apache Plume (Fallugia paradoxa) on Desert USA at link:
http://www.desertusa.com/mag98/aug/papr/du_aplume.html
Apache Plume (Fallugia paradoxa) on EasyBloom.com at link:
http://www.easybloom.com/plantlibrary/plant/apache-plume
Apache Plume on Celebrating Wildflowers, USDA Forest Service, at link:
http://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/plant-of-the-
week/fallugia_paradoxa.shtml
Apache Plume on NMSU Low Water Plants at link:
http://aces.nmsu.edu/pes/lowwaterplants/apache-plume.html
Apache Plume on Plant Talk Colorado at link:
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1742.html
Apache Plume Photos on SW Colorado Wild Flowers.com at link:
http://www.swcoloradowildflowers.com/white%20enlarged%20photo%2
0pages/fallugia%20paradoxa.htm
Apache Plume, Ponil on Texas Native Plants Database at link:
http://aggie-
horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentals/nativeshrubs/fallugiaparadox.htm
Apache Plume: Fact Sheet on Intermountain Native Plant Growers Assn.
at link: http://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/plant-of-the-
week/fallugia_paradoxa.shtml
Fallugia paradoxa on Sunset Magazine at link:
http://plantfinder.sunset.com/searchPlants.action?srch=apache+plume&
input.x=20&input.y=7
Fallugia paradoxa on Texas Native Plants Database, Lady Bird Johnson
Wildflower Center, University of Texas at Austin at link:
http://www.wildflower.org/gallery/species.php?id_plant=FAPA
How To Grow Apache Plume on HomeGuides.sfgate.com at link:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/grow-apache-plume-38001.html
Landscaping with Native Plants of the Southwest by George Oxford Miller,
Voyageur Press, 2007
Native Gardens for Dry Climates by Sally & Andy Wasowski, Clarkson
Potter Publishers, 1995
Plant of the Month (March 1998) by Kerry Krumrine, Co-Owner of J & K
Growers, Inc. at link:
http://weather.nmsu.edu/nmcrops/ornamentals/apache.htm
Plants We Love: Apache Plume on Horticulture at link:
http://www.hortmag.com/plants/plants-we-love/apacheplume
Xeriscape Plant Guide by Denver Water, American Waterworks
Association, Fulcrum Press, 1996
BRANIGAN MEMORIAL LIBRARY
“LUNCH & LEARN” PRESENTATION
Date: Thursday, March 21, 2013
Time: 12:00-1:00 p.m.
Place: Branigan Memorial Library
Location: Roadrunner Meeting Room
Don't forget to bring your lunch!
Topic: STARTING SEEDS INDOORS
Speaker: Dave Turner, El Paso Master Gardener
Summary: Learn how to get a jump-start on your
summer veggie gardening by starting
seeds indoors.
Information provided by Sylvia Hacker,
Certified Master Gardener
GOT IDEAS?
If you have a gardening-related article or idea about
a Plant-of-the-Month, a vegetable, tree or weed to
share for our MG Magazine, please send me a link or
email me about your idea. Anyone can submit
information or an article for inclusion in our monthly
magazine. FYI, I do try to put in information that is
seasonal in nature to insure that MGs and others get
the resources on a timely basis.
Email: asring@powerc.net
Mobile: (575) 640.7177

Honey-Do List for March 2013
GENERAL: We are all eager to get outside and start planting but remember our average last freeze date is between April 1 and April 20!
Be prepared to protect young plants from the desiccating winds and cold nights of March. Row covers, old blankets, and walls of water
come to mind. Check your irrigation systems and add more drip emitters if needed to water under the drip line of plants. Irrigate
established shrubs and trees, preferably to a depth of 2 feet. Use a soil probe to determine depth.
ORNAMENTALS
• Plant cannas, crinum, dahlia transplants, verbena, gaillardia, gazania, marigold seeds, Mexican and
Maximilian sunflower, aster, coreopsis, statice, petunia and zinnia.
• Plant hollyhocks now through May.
• Divide and replant perennials such as chrysanthemum, daylily, and Shasta daisy.
• Seed of warm-season annuals that were planted in February should be germinated, and the small
seedlings will be growing quickly. This regularly to keep the plants from crowding each other.
• Plant Carolina Jessamine, Virginia creeper, trumpet vines, silver lace vine, and Lady Banks roses.
• After the last day of freezing weather, prune frost-damaged foliage and branches.
FRUIT, NUT, CITRUS & SHADE TREES
• Begin mid-month to fertilize established fruit and nut trees. Be careful not to fertilize fruit while it’s
blooming; this can shock the plant, causing blossom drop and subsequent loss of fruit.
• Be careful about spraying fruit trees and other blooming edible plants. Bees and other insects are
working hard to pollinate flowers so there will be a good fruit set.
• As soon as fruit has set on deciduous fruit trees, especially apples, peaches, pears and apricots,
and is about the size of a walnut, begin to thin the fruit.
• Continue to harvest citrus.
• Finish planting bareroot material before mid-month.
• Irrigate established shrubs and trees, preferably to a depth of 2 feet. Use a soil probe to determine
depth.
• After the last day of freezing weather, prune frost-damaged foliage and branches.
VEGETABLES, FRUIT & HERBS
• Finish planting Cole crops, radishes, parsley, lettuces, kohlrabi, and leafy greens.
• Plant garlic, beets, Brussels sprouts, and Chinese cabbage.
• Late March, plant tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, summer squash, sweet corn, and ‘New Zealand’ summer
spinach.
• Cut back frost-damaged perennials herbs such as mint and sage, then fertilize and water.
• Plant strawberries and grape vines. Grapes begin to grow rapidly at this time of year. Thin out extra
shoots and tendrils to continue to train the vine to the arbor or trellis.
!
LAWNS / TURF / ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
• If you didn’t fertilize cool-season grass in February, do so now.
• Clean up cool-season ornamental grasses by “combing” with your fingers or a rake. If plant is large and ratty-
looking, cut it back also.
• Scalp warm-season grasses, lower mower height and mow to remove dead leaf tissue. Rake or bag clippings.
Clean air filter often during this process and be sure to wear a dust mask.
• Cut back pampas grass and other warm-season ornamental grasses.
• Take your lawn mower to the shop for a tune up.
Much of our suggested garden task information comes directly from Month-by-Month Gardening in the
Desert Southwest by Mary Irish (2002). We wanted you to know that this is an outstanding gardening
resource book. Also, some of our recommendations come from Southwest Planting Tips by the Month
and the Tucson Gardening Calendar both of which are produced by the Tucson Botanical Gardens.
Another resource used in our Honey-Do List is The Desert Gardener’s Calendar: Your Month-by-Month
Guide by George Brookbank (1999.) Recommendations from Sunset Magazine’s monthly Southwest
Garden Guides are also included.

Honey-Do List for March—Continued
CACTI & SUCCULENTS
• Begin to plant warm-season succulents now through May.
• Watch newly planted succulents like agaves and cactus to be sure they are not being sunburned.
Protect the south or west side of these plants with a sunscreen a shade cloth or a light-colored
cloth. Protection can be draped directly on the plant or laid over a frame. Pale-skin or yellowed
patches that appear suddenly on the plant are the first signs of sunburn.!
• Remove dead ocotillo canes. Bend cane gently; if it snaps off, it’s dead. Then make a clean cut
with loppers.!
• Increase watering of warm-season succulents to twice a month. As with most plants, it is better to
water deeply but infrequently.!
• Water winter-dormant succulents only when leaves first show, then begin to water regularly.!
• Prune any frost damage from succulents with a clean cut, dusting the cut with sulfur when
complete. Cut back cholla and prickly pears if they have become too large as they will begin to
grow quickly by the end of the month.
Some of the above recommendations came from the Tucson Botanical Garden’s monthly “calendar of care” for cacti and succulents.!
ROSES
• To encourage larger flowers, remove any side buds that arise out of Hybrid teas. On
shrub roses, Floribunda or Grandiflora roses, remove the center bud of the cluster to
increase flower size.
• Renew a regular fertilization schedule for established roses. Many gardeners fertilize
once a month, but discontinue it during the hottest part of the summer. Roses are
heavy feeders, and those grown in containers or in soils that have not been heavily
amended when the roses where planted, may need more frequent fertilization.
• In late March, fertilize newly planted roses with a mild fertilizer of fish emulsion. Do
not use granular-formulated fertilizers, even if they are geared for roses, until mid-April
when the red-colored new budding begins as it could burn your roses and stunt
blooming.
• Organic fertilizers like alfalfa meal, compost or other formulations for roses that blend many ingredients, work more slowly and can be
applied more frequently.
• Finish up any roses that still need some pruning. Remove all leaves and week crossing, diseased or damaged canes, and cut back the
entire rose plant to approximately 24 inches tall. Leave three to five healthy canes.
• Every 5-7 days, water established roses to a depth of 16”-18”. Remember, it is more important to water deeply than to water often.
• Continue to monitor for aphids and powdery mildew on your roses. Keep the area around your roses free of debris, and mulch heavily to
prevent splashing from any overhead watering.
PESTS
• Keep an eye out for aphids on the new succulent growth of roses, lilacs, and others. Hose them off with a strong jet of water.
• To reduce problems with powdery mildew, water susceptible plants in the early morning. Also, clean leaf litter from under plants. This
will reduce pathogens.
• Flea beetles can attack Mexican evening primrose foliage and tender spring vegetables.
• Look for caterpillars on flowering plants.
It is always important to correctly identify any insect you suspect may have caused damage to your plants. If you do not know what the
insect is, collect one in a plastic bag or small jar and take it to the Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office located at 530 N.
Church in Las Cruces (located just north of the Main Post Office downtown.)
MISCELLANEOUS
• Check irrigation systems. Add more dry emitters if needed to water under drip line of plants.
• Spread mulch under and around plants.
• Be prepared to protect young plants from the desiccating winds and cold nights of March. Row covers, old blankets, and walls of water
come to mind.!!

MARCH BIRTHDAYS
Russ Boor March 1
Mary Andrews March 8
Linden Ranels March 19
Jeff Anderson March 30
MANY THANKS FOR THE GOODIES
We appreciate your thoughtfulness
March Goodies April Goodies
Bonnie Eisenberg Ann Shine-Ring
Deb Tallent Bonnie Eisenberg
Jill Klann Marjie Snell
The deadline for submitting information for the
April 2013 MG Monthly Magazine will be
Friday, March 29th
Contact Info: Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
asring@powerc.net
(575) 640-7177
MG#CONTACT#INFORMATION#
Be sure your email address is current
so that you will receive important
information throughout the month from
the MG Program.
If you have an update to your email
or contact information, please contact:
Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
asring@powerc.net
(575) 640-7177
!

SPECIES TULIPS
Author: Sherri Ribbey, Garden Gate Magazine, April 2013
Whoever said good things come in small packages must have had species tulips in
mind. The photos shown in this article should give you an idea of why it’s worth the
effort to track down some at one of the mail-order sources available—check out
Internet sources too. These wild cousins of hybrids come back year after year without
any fuss. Some will even naturalize, or spread into small colonies. Most bloom early in
spring, opening with daffodils and grape hyacinths. Besides that, these tough little
bulbs are disease-resistant and quite cold hardy.
Species tulips do best with full sun and cold winters. Plant them in the fall where
they’ll get good drainage and a dry summer. That’s not to say they don’t need any
water. If it’s a dry spring, water regularly as soon as the foliage breaks through the soil
then stop as the foliage fades. A few species, such as tarda tulip, crocus tulip and
Florentine tulip, will tolerate extra summer watering. Here are some great species
tulips for your garden.
1. TARDA TULIP Hugging the ground at only 4 to 6 inches tall, Tarda Tulip works
best near a path or patio where you can enjoy it up close. There can be up to eight
flowers growing from one bulb. It blooms later in spring than other species tulips and is
cold-hardy in USDA Zones 3 and 8 and heat-tolerant in AHS Zones 8 to 1.
2. CROCUS TULIP This is a big group of wild tulips. The one shown below on the
left has a yellow center, or base. But there’s another one shown on the right that has a
black base. Both bloom early in spring and grow 4-6 inches tall. They’re cold-hardy in
USDA Zones 4 to 8 and heat-tolerant in AHS Zones 8 to 1.
3. FLORENTINE TULIP Here’s one of the best
species for naturalizing. It spreads both by seed and
stolon, a stem that runs along the ground and roots at
the tip. Florentine Tulip grows 6 to 12 inches tall and is
cold-hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 8 and heat-tolerant in
AHS Zones 8 to 1.
4. TULIPA ORPHANIDEA Whitallii Groups
The flowers of this species tulip pack a surprise.
Buff-colored on the outside, the buds open to a vivid
burnt orange in midspring. Slender stems are 6 to 12
inches tall and planted in groups of five or more make
a big impact. It’s cold-hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8 and
heat-tolerant in AHS Zones 8 to 1.
5. TULIPA HUMILIS PULCHELLA
Albocaerulea Oculata Group
For such a tiny tulip, the name is a mouthful. It’s
only 6 to 8 inches tall, but the white-and-blue flowers
are so striking you can’t miss them. It’s cold-hardy in
USDA Zones 4 to 8 and heat-tolerant in AHS Zones 8
to 1.
Article Continued on Page 9

Species Tulips—Continued from Page 8
6. TURKESTAN TULIP If you have clay soil, this is the species
tulip for you. It tolerates this troublesome situation much better than
others. Clusters of creamy white flowers with yellow centers bloom in
early spring. These bulbs are quite vigorous, growing 6 to 12 inches
tall and producing up to 12 flowers from one bulb. It’s cold-hardy in
USDA Zones 3 to 8 and heat-tolerant in AHS Zones 8 to 1.
7. LADY TULIP Soft yellow flowers brushed with a splash of red sit
on top of 6 to 12 inch stems in midspring. There’s also a white form
with a pink blotch that’s very popular. Both are cold-hardy in USDA
Zones 3 to 8 and heat-tolerant in AHS Zones 8 to 1.
8. KOLPAKOWSKI’S TULIP Each of these bulbs produces a single
flower on its 6 to 12 inch tall stem in early spring. These bulbs do
best when they get very hot, dry soil while they’re dormant in summer
so containers are a great place to grow and keep them.
Kolpakowski’s tulip is cold-hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 8 and heat-
tolerant in AHS Zones 8 to 1.
These wild tulips are perfect for tucking into the nooks and
crannies of your garden. And why not? They’re practically no-care,
come in a wide variety of colors and will fill your garden with color
every spring for years.#
DID YOU KNOW?
Facts About Hybrid Tulips
Source: Birds & Blooms, May 2012
$ The number one tulip color is red.
$ Two countries claim the tulip as their own. The
Turks were the first to have the bulb, but the Dutch
embraced it centuries later.
$ Planting tulips according to their three bloom
times—early,midseason, and late spring—will give
you a longer show.
$ Take your pick—there are more than 3,000 tulip
cultivars to choose from.
$ Most tulips should be planted at least 6 inches
deep. If yours didn’t come up this year, the problem
may have been shallow planting.
$ If you want to force tulips inside or in a pot, first
store them in a cold place for 12 to 16 weeks.
$ The trade in tulips hit a frenzied peak in the 1630’s.
Some traders earned as much as 60,000 florins a
month—about $44,000—selling tulip futures.
$ Carolus Clusius is credited with planting the first
tulip in the Netherlands in 1593. Ever since then,
the Dutch have been associated with the flower.

SPECIES vs. HYBRID TULIPS
There are so many hybrid tulips to choose from that it can be very
difficult to choose. But, today your choice is not of the color kind, but
of the specific kind of tulips to plant—hybrid or species. Of course
there are the traditional hybrids we all know and love, with their
stately stems and big, colorful flowers. But then there are special
tulips (as shown above), the ones that remain the way nature
intended them to be. They are less obvious and less familiar but no
less pleasing. These species tulips, also called botanical tulips, are
the parents of the spectacular hybrids that drove the seventeenth-
century Dutch frenzy—what was then termed tulip mania—for buying
single bulbs at enormous sums.
Differences.
There are a few notable differences between hybrid tulips and
species tulips in general. Hybrid tulips are usually pretty flashy and
some have variegation. The next notable difference is in the foliage.
Hybrid tulips have bold, large foliage. These leaves are quite wide
and get quite long. They are thick and hefty too. Whereas species
tulips have finer leaves which are quite a bit shorter and narrower.
Species tulips are different from the hybridized garden tulips,
seen in gardens worldwide, in that they are less widely grown—and
known—than the garden hybrids, and are unlikely to ever outsell or
even approach their level of popularity. However, more and more
species are becoming available each year.
Species tulips are frequently listed under the heading ‘botanical
tulips’, which makes them sound dull or specialized, and probably
difficult to grow. Tulip species are not difficult to grow and they are
certainly not dull.
But the real difference comes between blooms and the lasting
power of hybrid tulips versus species tulips. You do not have to buy
species tulips new every year to guarantee flowers. Plant the bulbs in
the right place and they will re-bloom year after year with colorful
flowers, and, in time, may even increase by themselves to form
sizeable colonies.
Species tulips last only a handful of weeks from early April to early
May, depending on the tulip and on where you live. Species tulips are
a classic choice to tuck into rock gardens. They're also beautiful
when planted in casual drifts (they seem to look unnatural in fussy,
geometric shapes). To extend the delight of species tulips, plant
groups composed of early and late bloomers; for each swath use at
least 25 of the larger bulbs or 50 of the smaller.
Myriad variations in appearance, color, and structure exist
among species tulips, and many interesting ones are
available to the home gardener who makes the effort to seek
them out. While most local nurseries offer mainly those
familiar standard Dutch hybrids, species tulips can be bought
from bulb specialists through the Internet and catalogs and
delivered to you with ease. The phrase "Well, they don't take
much space" is another justification to try just a couple more
every year—if you must have a mania, this is a pretty good
one to have.
Species tulips are smaller in size than their hybrid relatives.
Most grow just 4 to 12 inches in height and do not like the
competition of other plants around them. Species tulips
spread by self-sown seed or stolons. Their foliage is
attractive. Many have foliage, which is mottled or gray to blue
green in color. Species tulips offer more in the way of bloom.
Many have multiple blooms per stem, some have up to seven.
Species tulips require full sun, and well-drained, almost
gravelly soils that drain quickly between rains. When
preparing the site, amend the area several inches wider and
deeper than the bulbs will occupy with sand or gravel.
Planting on a gentle slope or in a raised bed assures good
drainage. Plant the bulbs 5 to 8 inches deep.
If you give them a home they like, species tulips succeed
and can perennialize—they return spring after spring. In fact,
they do so in a wider variety of garden soils than their hybrid
relatives. The bulbs for species tulips should be planted in
autumn, no more than three to four inches apart, at a depth
that's three to four times the height of the bulb. To thrive, they
need full sun and good drainage, and a baking-hot, dry
summer. If you can, avoid siting them in areas where you
already have plants that need frequent summer watering.
Impossible? Don't worry. Plant a few bulbs each in some six-
to eight-inch-diameter plastic pots (choose ones with lots of
drainage holes). Cover the pots with half-inch wire screening,
which will frustrate the mice and voles that so love tulip bulbs.
Plant the pots, and when the foliage dies back, dig the pots
up and lay them on their sides. Leave them to dry all summer,
and then replant in fall. During winter they need a cold period
to rest.
Species tulips can be used with other spring blooming
plants such as pasque flower or grape hyacinth. Siberian iris
and crestediris also make excellent companions. Species
tulips are also suitable for containers.

Species vs. Hybrid Tulips (Continued from Page 10)
Even in warmer areas, such as Zones 7, 8, and 9, where mild winters
make some bulbs difficult to grow, there are botanical tulips that do well.
Specialty suppliers can recommend other varieties. In warmer parts of
the United States (Zones 8 to 10), if your soil does not stay below 50
degrees for several weeks at any time during the year, try digging up
the bulbs after the foliage dies back in late spring and store them in a
dry, quite cool place. Then replant them in November or early
December in a spot with only morning or partial sun.
If you want long-lived tulips, pick the species types. These include
wild varieties and selections developed from those species. Most are
smaller in stature and bloom size than hybrid tulips. Because they are
variants of wildflowers, species tulips are usually long-lived, hardy, and
withstand stormy spring weather conditions. Many multiply and spread
from year to year.
Species tulips are especially suited for growing in rock gardens or
tucked (see photo below) into beds and borders. Many open only in
sunny conditions, keeping their blooms closed on cloudy days or in the
evening.
History: Tulip species are the starting point in the long story of the
garden tulip and they are still out there, growing in the wild—in Europe,
North Africa, and Asia. They are usually smaller and less bold than the
garden hybrids, and extra care may be needed to grow some of them
successfully, but they amaze with the intensity of their color and
surprise with the size of their flowers. Growing in distant mountain
ranges, hidden gorges, and remote meadows are plants that wouldn’t
look out of place in the brightest, most flamboyant garden.
About a hundred species of botanical tulips grow wild across the
mountains of Central Asia, particularly in an area spanning from Turkey
to Afghanistan. In the isolated mountain valleys and peaks of these
windswept parts, many species emerged. It is said that botanical tulips
do well where goats revel but cattle stay away. True or not, they also,
happily, are able to thrive in much of the United States. These dainty
flowers grow well so long as winter is neither too warm nor too wet;
they're recommended for USDA Zones 4 to 7.
After hundreds of years of breeding and cultivating, we have tulip
hybrids so spectacular that they may have blinded us to the quieter
elegance of species tulips. But species tulips are, after all, where all
tulips got their start, and in many ways, they've never been improved
upon.#
Species Tulip Facts
Light: Sun and partial sun
Zones: USDA 3-8
Plant Type: Bulb
Plant Height: 4-14 inches tall
Plant Width: To 6 inches wide
Flower Color: White, Pink/Rose,
Blue/Violet/Lavender, Red,
Yellow/Gold, Orange, Green, Bicolor,
Blue/Blue-Green Leaves
Bloom Time: Spring
Landscape Uses: Containers, beds and borders
Special Features: Flowers, attractive foliage, fragrant,
cut flowers, drought- and heat-
tolerant, easy to grow
%Article References&
Hybrid Tulips vs. Species Tulips on In the Garden at link:
http://tinaramsey.blogspot.com/2009/04/hybrid-tulips-
vs-species-tulips.html
Species Tulip on Wikipedia at link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Species_Tulips
Species Tulips on Horticulture and Home Pest News at link:
http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1994/9-16-
1994/sptul.html
Species Tulips on Martha Stewart Living, April 2006, at link:
http://www.marthastewart.com/266982/species-tulips
Tulips, Species on Better Homes & Gardens at link:
http://www.bhg.com/gardening/plant-
dictionary/bulb/tulip/

TOPSY TURVY® UPSIDE DOWN TOMATOES & PEPPERS
Source: Dave’s Garden, May 2012 • Author: Sharon Brown
Last year my three tomato plants did very well. They produced fruit, boundless numbers,
all green and beautiful, and the minute they began to turn slightly red, the squirrels, rabbits,
dogs, cats, mocking birds and probably mosquitoes feasted upon them, one by one. And it
wasn't as if the critters were hungry, because they only took a small bite out of each slightly
red tomato, and threw the rest to the ground. When I took my morning coffee walk, there I
would find them, all smashed to smithereens with one little bite missing. I swore I would
never plant another tomato—those critters could very well plant their own!
This spring rolled around and I had no tomato plants. I would beg, borrow, buy or steal,
but I would not grow a tomato. Until Mother's Day, when my son said: "Mom, I ordered a
couple of those Topsy Turvy® tomato planters for you, they should be there in a week."
And so they were, all nicely packaged in boxes looking about the size of a hardcover
circular book. I opened the first box, unsure of what to expect, unwrapped all the wires and
pieces and held it up in front of me. It uncoiled itself and looked like a giant slinky covered in
green plastic. The instructions that came with it were fairly clear. I was told how to open the
planter up, add the small pencil sized stemmed plant to the partially split styrofoam circle,
poke the whole thing through the hole in the bottom, then add the soil. So if the plant is
poking out of the bottom, that means it will need to be in its hanging position first, otherwise
putting the soil in on top of it would crush the plant below. Smart thinking, I thought, hang the
thing up first!
Now the instructions warned that it would be heavy when the soil was added, yep, so
true, so we better have it in its exact home to be before even thinking of the plant that would
be growing from its bottom. I have a post to which my trellised potting bench is attached. It is
well grounded, sitting in cement, and seemed to be strong. Another wooden post stood in
the yard, and at one time held one end of a clothesline, so it would be a good place to put a
second planter. I attached a metal plant hanger from each, but had to have help from dear
son to do so, since he is much taller than I am, and I was determined to get the planters up
high and away from the critters. Of course, having done that, I had to stand on a ladder to
add the soil. (I think detailed mental images are important in learning experiences!) Let me
tell you, the start up for this wonderful planter is not for the faint of heart.
The soil does not come with the planter, nor does the plant, so that is something to
consider. I used Miracle Gro® potting soil with continuous release plant food first, adding it
to the bottom where the roots would be. Then I added some homemade compost that had
been brewing for a year or two, and finished off with a mix of more of the potting soil plus a
bit of topsoil added, just to get the soil mix up to within the required two inches of the top rim.
I think it worked!
So I had the hangers up, one tomato in the one by the potting bench, and one pepper in
the one on the clothesline pole, both filled with soil, and now it was time to attach the round
tops. Difficult. They were a little hard to center and to fit onto the wired rim, one finally found
its rightful place, but the other is still a little off kilter. Having done that, it was time to water.
There are mixed opinions about watering, some say a couple of gallons a day is fine,
others say more, still others, less. There is no way I could hold a gallon of water up above
my head to water either of them, so I use the water hose and sing a song or two, and I figure
since they have not wilted yet, that might be working.
I really have no idea how much a song or two
equates into gallons. But neither the pepper nor the
tomato has complained. I do know that quite often,
with the roots of the plants at the bottom, a short
supply of water will not dwindle down to them
quickly enough to prevent some wilt. So water, and
water often and a lot, would be my advice.
Strangely enough, by about the second day those
pencil sized stemmed plants began to curl upward
from the bottom, reaching their heads to the sun,
and once that happened, it was off to the races for
both of them. Those things grew by leaps and
bounds and bloomed like crazy. Today I am
watching two wonderful tomatoes and two even
bigger bell peppers forming on the vines. I am also
eyeing the tiny ones that are just now forming. They
aren't quite ready yet, but my mouth waters
whenever I walk past them.
I had only one worry during the growth spurt
when the pepper plant decided to turn its head
upward and hit head first into the bottom of the
planter. Pepper plant stems are stubborn, and I was
afraid it would break in my hands if I forced the
issue. I left it alone for a day or two until it was
finally long enough to reach the rim of the bottom of
the planter then I gently suggested to it that it might
be nice if it continued its trek out beyond the rim.
And so it did.
I don't know if you have tried these Topsy Turvy®
upside down planters or not, but I thought it an
adventure worth sharing. If I have a problem, it
might be yet to come, because my tomato planter
hanger seems to be bending a bit downward with
the weight of the planter, and all the water just adds
more weight. If bending is all it does, that'll be fine.
It won't hurt the tomatoes a bit.
There is no ending to this story just yet, but in
another week or two, I might be enjoying the fruits
of my labor. The only part I dread is at the very end,
when it is recommended that the planter be emptied
of all its pounds of soil.

!
Topsy Turvy Upside Down Tomatoes & Peppers (Cont. from Page 12)
You'll find me on the ladder again scooping, one little spoonful at a time. The
planter must be stored away for the winter, and with Kentucky's unpredictable
weather patterns these days, that's a pretty good rule to follow for most things.
And by the way, I have seen no critters eyeing my upside down tomatoes
yet. I might have won this battle. I'll be sure to let you know.
One week later: Here's a tiny update for you, I made black bean/corn salad
today, and in it I chopped up the very first of my bell peppers. I am telling you, it
was worth waiting for. The second one will be ready soon, and I am watching
some very healthy looking smaller ones as they form. The bad news is that one
of my tiny green tomatoes is missing. I know the culprit is out there somewhere,
is it possible I have a flying squirrel in my yard? I am keeping a close watch,
and I'll let you know. The black bean salad was excellent though!#
TOMATOES:
Planning & Planting For An Outstanding Harvest
Source: Dave’s Garden, April 2011 ! Author: Jill M. Nicolaus
Tomato plants get pretty big so a little planning can be a big help. Draw a
plan on graph paper or use another method to figure out how many plants will
fit in your garden and still leave room for peppers, beans, or whatever else
you'd like to grow. If you stake or cage your tomatoes, you can plant them 2
feet apart, which gives each plant about four square feet of growing space. If
you have more space for your tomatoes, you might let them sprawl, in which
case you'll want to plant them at least 3 feet apart.
For me, a single long row of tomatoes does better than multiple shorter rows.
Picking the fruit is easier than in a tomato "jungle," and the improved air
circulation helps prevent fungal disease. If your summers are humid also, either
stick with single or staggered double rows, or allow extra space between rows
of tomatoes. You could also just scatter your tomato plants one by one
throughout your garden, staking or caging them to keep them from overrunning
other plants. Some plants such as lettuce will appreciate a little shade from the
tomatoes, but mostly you'll want to try to plant your tomatoes where they won't
hog all the sunshine.
Tomato plants appreciate good garden soil with plenty of organic matter, but
too much nitrogen could give you huge plants without many tomatoes. We built
a new little raised bed one year and filled it with top-quality "topsoil" and leaf
mold; our tomato plants were 14 feet tall, green and lush, and completely
tomato-free. One soil preparation myth is that tomatoes need extra calcium to
prevent blossom end rot. "B.E.R" actually results when the plant is unable to
take up enough calcium, and adding eggshells or other calcium sources won't
fix an uptake problem. Just take the same steps for digging and amending the
soil in your tomato patch as you do for the rest of your veggie garden, and your
plants will do just fine.
As you're getting your garden ready for your tomatoes, plan
ahead for their water needs. If you run a soaker hose along
your row of plants, it's easy to give the roots a good drink
(which they love) without getting the foliage wet (which can
encourage disease). Tomato plants appreciate a deep drink
twice a week, maybe three times in hot, dry weather.
You can purchase tomato plants at your local garden
center or big box store, or you can grow an astonishing
variety of tomatoes starting from seed. Some people swear by
the flavor of heirloom varieties, while others think hybrids give
them better yields. However you get your tomato plants, it's a
good idea to harden them off by getting them gradually used
to outside conditions. Even plants that have been on outdoor
nursery shelves for weeks may need a day or two to get used
to conditions in your garden.
When you plant your tomato seedlings, be sure to bury
some of the stem. The plant will grow extra roots all along the
buried stem, and you'll have a stronger, healthier plant. If your
plants are tall or leggy, you don't have to dig a hole to China.
The soil probably hasn't started warming up more than 5 or 6
inches below the surface, and planting into colder, deeper dirt
won't do your plant any favors. Instead, dig a shallow, sloping
trench. I like to add a sprinkling of polymer moisture crystals
and time-release fertilizer all along the planting hole.
Lay the plant along the trench, and bury it up to the last few
pairs of leaves. Gently bend the top of the plant upright, but
don't worry about getting it exactly vertical. Don't bother
pruning off any branches or leaves that you're burying;
pinching them off would just make unnecessary wounds along
the stem. Your tomato plant will look awfully tiny in your
garden now, but just think of the vigorous root system it will
have with all that buried stem.
If you're using stakes or cages, put them in place now. I
tend to procrastinate and then regret it when I'm wrestling a
cage onto a plant half my height. Mulching around the plants
will conserve moisture and help prevent disease. The mulch
should form a fat "doughnut," with a ring of clear dirt around
the stem of the plant. Grass clippings make great mulch for
your veggie garden! Your plants might not look like they're
growing for the first week or two, but don't worry, they are
busy developing an awesome root system. Hold off on
fertilizing until you see new growth on top. Then watch them
take off.
I hope this will be your best tomato-growing season ever!#

Building Your Super-Sturdy Tomato CageSuper-Sturdy Tomato Cage
Strong enough to stand up to summer storms and bumper crops.
Source: Organic Gardening.com ! Author: Doug Hall
At the Organic Gardening Test Garden, tomato plants grow in heavy-
duty wire cages we’ve used for years. These square, vertical columns
keep our tomatoes standing tall, even when wind whips through the farm.
We expect to get a few more decades of use out of our tomato cages—
they’re that durable.
What’s the secret of their strength and longevity? Our cages are
constructed from livestock panels—rigid, 16-foot-long fence sections,
made of heavy-gauge galvanized wire and sold at farm-supply stores. The
panels are designed with different sizes of openings for various types of
farm animals. For this project, we chose cattle panels that are 50 inches
tall with openings 8 inches by 6 inches. Panels with wider-spaced wires
cost less and are easier to work with, and it’s easier to pick ripe tomatoes
through the larger openings.
This is a two-person project. It requires a bolt cutter (and the strength to
use it). You’ll also need a plank, 2-by-6 or larger and about 6 feet long,
and a 5⁄8-inch box wrench. Each 16-foot panel makes two tomato cages
with a small section left over. (Use leftover panel pieces to construct
compost bins or A-frame trellises, or mount a rectangle of wire grid on the
garage wall and add hooks for hanging garden tools.)
One disadvantage to this style of tomato cage: They don’t collapse or
nest for storage. That’s no problem for gardeners who live in deer country,
where the cages can be employed in winter to protect young trees and
shrubs from browsing deer.
1. Using a bolt cutter, cut a
section of panel 6 1⁄2 feet
long, leaving the horizontal
wire stubs along the cut edge.
If you plan to use a pickup
truck to transport the panels
home, do this step at the store
where you purchase them.
2. Lay the section on the
ground. Measure and mark a
line 18” from side of the panel
without wire stubs; this is
where you’ll make the first
bend. Place plank so its edge
aligns with the marks. With
two people standing on the
plank, bend the panel upward
to make a 90-degree angle.
!
3. Repeat the measuring
and bending twice more.
After the third bend, the two
panel sides will meet.
4. To connect the two sides, slip the ring end of the box
wrench over a wire stub; bend the stub until it loops around
the vertical wire of the other panel side. Repeat with the
remaining wire stubs. Cut the stubs with the bolt cutter,
taking care to leave no sharp points protruding.
5. Cut off the horizontal wire at the base of the cage, leaving
vertical wire ends to help stabilize the cage in the ground. If
you live where the wind is exceptionally fierce, you might
want to reinforce each cage with a length of rebar pounded
18 inches into the ground and tied to the cage.
Article Contributed by Mona Nelson, Certified MG

When To Plant Vegetable Seeds
Source: Knowledge Weighs Nothing.com
Link: http://knowledgeweighsnothing.com/when-to-plant-vegetable-seeds-2-excellent-printable-charts/
Go to this link and you can print out full page copies of each chart.)
Knowing when to plant seeds is crucial to successful germination and healthy plants. I don’t know about you, but I am always eager to
get sowing seeds indoors this time of year. Trouble is I always sow too many and too soon. They shoot up in the seed trays indoors and
they are ready to be transplanted outdoors in no time. Problem is – it is still too cold outdoors to plant them out…
These two charts have been created by the lovely folks at Roots Nursery and I don’t need to tell you how useful the charts will be. If
you are like me you’ll have them printed out in no time.
SEED STARTER CHART BY TEMPERATURE DAYS TO GERMINATE ACCORDING TO TEMPERATURE
This information was contributed by Mona Nelson, Certified Master Gardener

OXEYE DAISY
(Leucanthemum vulgare)
Description: Oxeye Daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) is an herbaceous
perennial in the aster (sunflower) family (Asteraceae) with numerous stems
that measure from 1 to 3 feet tall by 1 foot in width. It looks similar to a
Shasta Daisy but is smaller and much more aggressive. It spreads by seeds
and surface rhizomes.
This plant smells like sage and a single plant can produce from 1-40
flowering stems. The stem is mostly unbranched and sprouts laterally from a
creeping rhizomatous rootstock. Its leaves are dark green on both sides.
Leucanthemum vulgare blooms from late spring to autumn. The small
flower head, no larger than 2 inches consists of about 20 white ray florets
that surround a yellow disc, growing on the end of 1 to 3 ft. tall stems. The
plant produces an abundant number of flat seeds, without pappus, that
remain viable in the soil for 2 to 3 years. It also spreads vegetatively by
rhizomes.
Many people consider Oxeye Daisy to be a pretty wildflower, but
wildflower does not mean native; in fact, it is an invasive noxious weed.
Class A Noxious Weed in New Mexico: Currently has a limited
distribution in the state, but there is a need to prevent any new infestations or
to eradicating existing infestations. It is noxious and highly invasive.
Habitat: Oxeye Daisy has escaped cultivation and is now common in
grasslands, pastures, fields, disturbed area, waste areas, open woods,
meadows, and roadsides. It has adapted to coarse and medium textured soil.
Distribution: This species has been reported in all states and is considered
invasive in seventeen.
Other Names: Margarite, white daisy, bull daisy, moon flower, dog daisy,
field daisy, and goldens.
History: This perennial is a native to Europe and was introduced to the U.S.
as an ornamental in the 1800”s. Unfortunately, Oxeye Daisy is still currently
used as an ornamental and is often sold commercially in seed packets
labeled as wildflower seed. (If you want to bring nature back to your garden
with wildflowers, try to choose wildflower seed mixes carefully, as many
contain invasive plants like Oxeye Daisy. Wildflower mixes do not tend to list
the species they contain, and colorful photos on package covers mislead
consumers into purchasing invasive plant seeds that are native to Europe
and other parts of North America. Avoid wildflower mixes unless you are
buying them from a reputable plant nursery that has collected seeds locally.)
Why It Is Considered A Problem? Oxeye Daisy displaces native plant
species, growing so densely it excludes other vegetation. While not
considered poisonous to cows, it does impart a disagreeable taste to
their milk. It is difficult to control or eradicate because of its large seed
bank, long seed viability and its ability to resprout if not completely
removed.
Also these plants have been shown to carry several viral crop diseases
Identification:
Flowers: White daisies with 2” wide yellow central disc
that blooms all summer.
Seeds: Tufted, dispersed by the wind. When flower
heads are dry, the seeds drop or are shattered
easily by touch or movement. Water, human
and animal foot traffic and cultivating and
earth-moving machinery can carry the seeds to
new areas.
Stems/Leaves: Stems sprout laterally from a creeping
rootstock. The number of flower stalks ranges
from 1 to 40 per plant. Its leaves are dark
green on both sides.
Roots: Spread vegetatively with horizontal stems
growing below the soil surface, called
rhizomes, forming roots and producing new
plants.
Reproduction: The plant reproduces by roots and seeds. A
typical plant can produce over 500 seeds that
spread by wind, animals and remain viable for
2-3 years.
Management & Control:
• Prevention and early detection most effective control
methods.
• Physical removal before flowering for single plants/small
infestations. Because of its shallow roots, small infestations
can be easily hand pulled or dug up before seed heads are
produced.
• Can be effectively controlled using any of several readily
available general use herbicides such as picioram, imazapyrp
and dicamba. Some herbicides may damage non-target
species. Be sure to follow label and state requirements.
• Chemical applications in the rosette or pre-bloom stages of
growth are most effective.
−ARTICLE REFERENCES−
Leucanthemum vulgare on Wikipedia at link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leucanthemum_vulgare
Oxeye Daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum) on Minnesota
Dept. of Natural Resources at link:
http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/herbac
eous/oxeyedaisy.html
Oxeye Daisy, Leucanthemum vulgare (Asterales/ Asteraceae)
on Invasives.Org at link:
http://www.invasive.org/browse/subinfo.cfm?sub=5937
Weed of the Week: Oxeye Daisy on Invasive Species of British
Columbia at link: http://www.bcinvasives.ca/general/weed-of-
the-week-oxeye-daisy

INTERN PROFILE: GAIL & DAVID ROSS
New Master Gardener interns David and Gail Ross have a combined
history of more than a century of gardening experience. David planted his
first vegetable garden when he was nine years old; Gail got her first taste
of homegrown vegetables at ten and knew then that she had to start her
own garden.
The Rosses now live on the East Mesa in Las Cruces where they have
a quarter-acre to keep them busy. Gail and David have called Las Cruces
home for more than five years. David began gardening in Washington
State and continued in California and Nevada.
Gail has “played in the dirt” in Chicago, Wisconsin and Las Vegas, NV.
They both like to grow vegetables and fruit trees but Gail adds flowers and
herbs to her “things I like to grow” list. Gail recalls that she used to grow
flowers for her mother to use in flower arrangements she made and sold.
They signed up for the Master Gardener Program because they wanted
to gain additional knowledge for successful gardening in this climate.
They were also anxious to volunteer in the community and work with the
Extension Service, which they have done in previous locales.
David is especially interested in outreach programs to the schools. He
loves seeing children’s faces light up when they taste fresh fruits and
vegetables, especially if they have been involved in growing them.
David believes all gardening experiences are enjoyable but admits that
his most “memorable” one probably was when, as a 10 year-old boy, he
was seriously stung by bees while picking his parents’ raspberries to share
with their neighbors.
Both Gail and David are now retired. David’s career included working for
the State Department of Health in Washington and then as a research
biochemist in Davis, California. He also taught in the School of Public
Health and Medicine. Gail owned a travel agency for ten years and
worked as a pharmacy technologist.
Gail and David have jumped into the Doña Ana County Extension
Master Gardener Program with all four feet. Their volunteer list for the
month of March includes the Pecan Growers Conference, the Home and
Garden Show, and the Senior Expo in addition to the monthly Master
Gardener meetings.
Profile Provided by Ann Palormo, Certified Master Gardener
!
LAVENDER LOVER’S HANDBOOK
!"
Author Sarah Berringer Bader started with 365 lavender
plants (Lavandula spp. and hybrids) on her five-acre farm in
Oregon. Just a few years later, she was growing nearly 5,000
and her collection represented 90 different cultivars. In this
book, she shares what she learned about starting from seed
and growing cuttings, flower and foliage variation and the best
lavenders to cook with. You’ll find recipes for treats like
lavender-infused jam too.
With its intoxicating scent, gorgeous wands of purple
flowers, and silvery foliage, lavender is one of the most
sought-after plants. But the horticultural reasons for choosing
lavender go far beyond its beauty. Lavender attracts
beneficial insects, requires little water once established, and
is deer resistant.
In The Lavender Lover's Handbook, lavender grower Sarah
Bader teaches gardeners how they can successfully grow this
beloved plant. Featuring the 100 easiest, most stunning
lavenders available today, this beginner's guide provides a
complete checklist of the color, fragrance, size, and foliage of
each plant, in addition to basic pruning, spacing, and planting
requirements. The text is rounded out with tips on how to
harvest, cook, and craft with this wonderful herb.
Its abundant variety, hardiness, fragrance, and culinary
uses make lavender one of the most popular and versatile
plants. And now, with this practical and accessible guide in
hand, it's easier than ever to grow at home.
Publisher: Timber Press, May 2012

MASTER GARDENER MONTHLY MEETING: FEB. 13, 2013
Notetaker: Sue Styer
Introduction and Welcome: Jeff Anderson
Awards: Various people were recognized for their volunteer time contributions to the Master Gardener Program:
Master Gardener Contribution Area/Program
' Dixie LaRock Chair, Farmer’s Market and Chair, MG Plant Sales plus our “sunshine lady” who has a
heart of gold which has been demonstrated by her help for Sherman and Myles, etc.
' Bonnie Eisenberg Liaison, Annual Tour of Gardens
' Mary Ann Pribillo Chair, Annual Home and Garden Show
' Linda Schukei Chair, Hospice Garden
' David Hutchinson Chair, Hospice Garden
' Sherman Levenson Hospice Garden and Community Garden
' Darrel Shillingburg Chair, Community Gardens
' J. Myles Munoz Chair, Annual Chile Conference and Pecan Conference (MG portions of Conferences)
' Russ Boor Chair, State Master Gardener Conference
' Sylvia Hacker Chair, Hotline and Chair of monthly Lunch & Learn Presentations
' Solange Graham Notetaker for our Monthly MG Meetings
' Eric Graham Creator, Online MG Volunteer Hours Program
' Pamela Crane Chair, MG Recertification
' Linda Morgan MG Graduation Banquet Coordinator and Education Program Chair
' Ann Shine-Ring Editor, monthly Master Gardener Magazine
' Juliet Williams 4-H Program Coordinator and new MG Student Class Coordinator
' Alberta Morgan Chair, CoCoRaHS (Community Collaborative Rain, Hail & Snow Network)
' Jeff Anderson Ag Program Director/Master Gardener Program Administrator
COMMITTEE/PROJECT REPORTS
MG Hotline (Louis Worley) We have a few dates open where we need certified MGs 2/15, 3/15, 3/19, 3/26,3/29. We need to update the MG
Hotline substitute list with new people or with current designates if they wish to remain.
MG Magazine (Ann Shine-Ring) No report as Ann was ill. Our MG Magazine will be distributed later this month.
Lunch & Learn at Branigan Library (Sylvia Hacker) Presentation will be the Why, When, How of Pruning Roses and Other Plants, etc. The
presenter will be MG, Russ Boor.
Gomez Garden and Hospice Garden (Dixie LaRock) There will be a meeting on Saturday, Feb. 16th to install the border and irrigation
system. It is looking good. There are beets and radishes coming up. We need to see if they survive.
Monthly Education Programs (Lynn Bryant) Lynn is our new Education Program Chair. She passed out a survey that listed topics and
asked for input on our interest in these areas. (See the Survey Results listed on Page 19 of this Magazine)
NEW & CONTINUING PROJECTS:
Chile Conference - Salsa contest - Feb. 4 and 5th at Hotel Encanto - Myles explained that the salsa contest was cancelled this year
because of new food safety laws. Individuals bring entries that have made offsite and the new law requires they be made onsite in a certified
kitchen. If the food had consisted of baked goods, there would not have been an issue. There were 200 attendees and the one-day event
was deemed a success. Jeff mentioned that Karim Martinez suggested that in the future we could do a Chile salsa cook-off onsite.
High on the Desert Conference - Sierra Vista, AZ - Feb. 14-15 to be held at the Windermere Hotel in Sierra Vista, AZ.
Rainwater Harvesting Workshop - Jeff - Feb. 18-19 at Doña Ana Workforce Center. We have close to 40 people signed up. The first day
entails a speaker from Austin and the second day the group will build a 1,500-gallon system at Jeff’s House.
Pecan Conference - March 3, 4, 5, 2013 at Hotel Encanto. Myles will need volunteers for different days and times. There will be about 600
people attending.
Home and Garden Show - March 9-10, 2013 at Las Cruces Convention Center. Tracy Thompson is coordinating this event and she will
need volunteers for various slots.
Water Festival – March 16. It is being held at Young Park and Myles volunteered to coordinate. There will be about 1,000 kids. Volunteers
are needed.
Senior Expo – March 23 & 24. Gail and David Ross volunteered to coordinate.
Minutes Continued on Page 19
!

MG Monthly Meeting, February 13, 2013 (Continued)
NEW & CONTINUING PROJECTS (CONTINUED):
Arbor Day April 6th City of Las Cruces needs tree stewards to transplant trees on various dates. They will be transplanted into 5-gallon
containers then planted at a later time. If interested call Jeff. The trees are currently bare root and in storage. No help needed at downtown
event on mall on Arbor Day itself.
School Gardens Holy Cross and Tombaugh need help with garden design and plant selections for new gardens. Volunteers needed. Work
for MG involves design not digging. Holy Cross’s garden will be a flower garden. Jeff has visited and said containers would be appropriate.
Tombaugh (located on Carver Road by Aldershot) will have a courtyard garden with two raised 5’ X 8’ beds with water plus drip lines on the
side for containers and will involve vegetables. They want to know what to grow etc. Talk to Jeff if you are interested.
Tour of Gardens Coordinator needed. Bonnie Eisenberg is stepping down from her position as Liaison for the Annual Tour of Gardens. If you
are interested, please contact Jeff. (Subsequently, James Crouse and Tracy Thompson have volunteered to be Co-Chairs.)
ANNOUNCEMENTS:
—Jeff passed around a flyer on the Agricultural Employees Forum on March 6 from 8-5.
—Joanne discussed Bosque Park Pole Planting on Feb.23 – this activity involves planting about 60 poles for 2 hours.
—Onion Field Day will be held on 7/18/13 this year
—Dec. 3, 2013 Western SARE (Sustainable Agriculture Research & Education) Conference. To be held in either Alamogordo or Deming
—HB 271 (Cooperative Extension Service Funding) Information on this legislation will be sent to us as soon as it is available.
EDUCATION PRESENTATION: JIM TURRENTINE, OWNER OF “THE BIG PICTURE” TOPIC: PHOTOGRAPHING FLOWERS
SNACKS: Thank you to Ann Palormo, Dick Hiss and Sherry Hulsey for our delicious snacks today. Next month’s goodies makers will be
Bonnie Eisenberg, Deb Tallent and Jill Klann. If you haven’t already sign up, please be prepared to sign up for our 2013 Refreshments
list at our next meeting.
Next Meeting: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 – At Branigan Library (9:15am to 11:45am)
Presentation: Native Plants in the White Sands Missile Range
Presenter: David Anderson, WSMR Land Manager & Botanist
EDUCATIONAL TOPICS FOR PRESENTATION Total Count
Companion Gardening to Reduce Pests 24
Ornamental Grasses: What To Plant & How to Care for Them 21
Drought Resistant Plants 20
Edible Landscape 20
Vertical Gardening: Different Uses 20
Raised Beds: How to Build, What to Plant & How to Maintain 20
Designing Your Garden 17
Green Houses 17
Seed Harvesting and Drying 16
The Challenges of Gardening During Extremes in our Weather 16
Growing an Herb Garden 15
Growing Succulents 15
Xeriscaping 15
Creating Garden Junk (aka: Y’art) 14
Different Forms of Garden Art 14
Growing Houseplants: Special Occasions 14
Growing the Three Sisters 14
How to Get a Tropical Look in Southern New Mexico 14
Hypertufa (lightweight material used in garden pots and ornaments) 14
Weed Control 14
Winterizing Your Yard 14
Benefits of Growing Produce: Home Gardening 13
Butterflies and Moths 13
Canning and Preserving Vegetables and Fruits 13
Growing Orchids 12
Water Harvesting 12
From the Grape Vine to the Table 11
Bird Feathers 9
Using Herbs in Recipes 8
Vermi-Composting 8
Pecans: From the Tree to Your Table 7
!
ADDITIONAL SUGGESTIONS FOR TOPICS
How to use Stone for a Patio
How to Build and Plant in a Berm
Small Space Gardening: Flowers & Vegetables
Container Gardening: Flowers and Vegetables
Oriental Vegetable Gardening
Community and School Gardens
Gardening for Birds and Wildlife
First Aid and CPR
!

IMPORTANT: Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another MG forgets, please give him
or her a “reminder” call. Be sure to get a copy of the Subs List, for your information.
As of Monday, March 11, 2013, the Doña Ana County Extension Office hours will change to 8am–12 and 1–5pm
Monday through Friday. This will impact our Hotline hours and we will discuss options on Wednesday, March 13, at
our monthly MG meeting.
URGENT: We need at least 2 MGs at each Hotline Day. Please consider volunteering for at least one, four-hour
assignment to ensure we have adequate coverage for our Hotline. Thank you for your help.
The assignments listed below were current as of February 28, 2013
MG Hotline Assignments for March 2013
Friday, Mar. 1 Deb Tallent Certified MG
Eileen Roberts 2013 Intern
Tracy Thompson 2013 Intern
Tuesday, Mar. 5 Dorian Dodson Certified MG
Sylvia Hacker Certified MG
Grace Foster 2013 Intern
Friday, Mar. 8 Alberta Morgan Certified MG
Certified MG
Tamara Fetzer 2013 Intern
Phyllis Radtke 2013 Intern
Tuesday, Mar. 12 B.G. Hosie Certified MG
Deb Tallent Certified MG
Friday, Mar. 15 Dael Goodman Certified MG
Ann Palormo Certified MG
Al Krueger Certified MG
Laura Gordon 2013 Intern
Louis Worley 2013 Intern
Tuesday, Mar. 19 Velma Noland Certified MG
Deb Tallent Certified MG
Gail Ross 2013 Intern
David Ross 2013 Intern
Friday, Mar. 22 Russ Boor Certified MG
Mary Andrews Certified MG
Tuesday, Mar. 26 Ann Palormo Certified MG
Gail Ross 2013 Intern
David Ross 2013 Intern
Friday, Mar. 29 Velma Noland Certified MG
(Good Friday) Carla Clouser Certified MG
Nancy Sherman 2013 Intern
MG Hotline Assignments for April 2013
Tuesday, Apr. 2 Certified MG
Certified MG
Nancy Carlson 2013 Intern
Friday, Apr. 5 Alberta Morgan Certified MG
Certified MG
Louis Worley 2013 Intern
Tuesday, Apr. 9 B.G. Hosie Certified MG
Certified MG
Elizabeth Grinnell 2013 Intern
Friday, Apr. 12 Bonnie Eisenberg Certified MG
Nancy Sherman 2013 Intern
Tuesday, Apr. 16 Dorian Dodson Certified MG
Sylvia Hacker Certified MG
Friday, Apr.19 Mary Andrews Certified MG
Tuesday, Apr. 23 Mary Andrews Certified MG
Certified MG
Friday, Apr. 26 Certified MG
Certified MG
Tuesday, Apr. 30 Bonnie Eisenberg Certified MG
Laurie Ludeman 2013 Intern
Martha Ludeman 2013 Intern

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