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Sheep to Chic
The Business Case for a
Northern California
Wool Textile Mill
What will I talk about today?
                     Growing the local green
                                    economy


                        Supporting California
                             sheep farmers
        California
        Wool Mill

                      Creating real livelihood
                                 for women

                     Developing a sustainable
                          textile supply chain
Why don’t we use our own wool?
 Shift to overseas
      garment
  manufacturing

  Most US wool is
    exported


                       US is largest
Consumer awareness
                     consumer of wool
How many sheep in the US?
Why did wool volume decline?

                     Synthetic Fiber

                     Foreign subsidies

                       Meat packer
                       consolidation
 National Wool Act
                     US policy
    1954-1994                  Predators
                     changes
Why is New Zealand Successful?
How is the US advertising wool?

New farmer campaign to
increase flock population
Who Wants US Wool?
            LOHAS	
  	
  

           Localvores	
  


            Designers	
  




             Ar3sans	
  




Women are 85% of Consumer Market
Why people want local?
700	
  
                                    Willingness to pay 25% or more price markup for local
600	
  


500	
  


400	
  


300	
  


200	
  


100	
  


    0	
  
                Support ag and            Perceived Safety     Env. Benefits from   Reduce fossil fuel
                local economy
              and Quality
             farms
             use
            Source: Iowa State University, Allan Ortiz 2010
How do they want their wool?

           Fabric	
         Yarn	
   Roving	
           Raw	
  
                                                        Wool	
  
  Home	
  
Furnishings	
            Toys	
  




                                         Garments	
  




                        Source: NAICS
Is there an opportunity here?
                                  600,000+ sheep




                                  3 million+ lbs of
                                         wool


   71% of
  California                        27.7% is 22
farmers have                       micron & finer
  24 or less
   sheep

                                   No fine grade
                                  fiber processing
                                       in CA

               2007 USDA Census
Perhaps there’s an opportunity?
LOHAS	
  is	
  now	
  30%	
  
 of	
  total	
  market	
  
 Localvores	
  spend	
  
$4.8	
  billion	
  on	
  local	
  
Increase	
  in	
  local	
  cut	
  
and	
  sew	
  opera3ons	
  
  Increase	
  in	
  labor	
           US wool prices are
    prices	
  abroad	
               60-75% of imported
What exactly is the opportunity?




        One million lbs of processed wool =
         $40+ million in potential revenue
How should we brand it?




  Sheep to Chic
   100% Local
What products should we make?

                         How	
  much	
  
                         direct	
  to	
  
                         consumer?	
  	
  




                           How	
  much	
  
                           fabric	
  for	
  
                           designers?	
  
What else could we make?
How should we sell it?
    Retail	
  	
  



   Online	
  



 Wholesale	
  

                       Women-focused
Partnerships	
        brand experience
What infrastructure is needed?




                                                            Weaving	
  
 Tumbling	
  	
  
 Scouring	
  	
     Carding	
  	
     Spinning	
  	
                      KniWng	
  

  Picking	
  
                                                             Fel3ng	
  




 Mobile	
                   Central	
                    Distributed	
  
What is the material cycle?
                                    Supply	
  Chain	
  
                                    •  Sheep	
  farms	
  
                                    •  Natural	
  dye	
  farms	
  




   Product	
  Disposal	
  	
                                         Produc3on	
  
   •  Compost	
                                                      •  Central	
  mill	
  
   •  Repurposing	
  to	
  felt	
  	
                                •  Distributed	
  mini-­‐mills	
  




                                    Distribu3on	
  	
  
                                    •  Retail	
  	
  
                                    •  Online	
  
What is the business structure?




                 California
                 Wool Mill



44% of Coops
                                 Only 19% of
are still in
                                   standard
business after
                                corporations
10 yrs
                              survive 10 yrs
What would this look like? 

               Coop owned



    	
  	
       Childcare for small
                 children

               Access to artisan tools,
               equipment, and classes
Why is this so important?

    Economic
opportunities for
                      Only	
  6%	
  of	
  
    mothers           mothers	
  in	
                                      Enable women to
                    poverty	
  receive	
  
                        public	
                                           provide for their
                      assistance	
                                             children
                                             25%	
  of	
  women	
  
                                             with	
  infants	
  live	
  
                                                in	
  poverty	
  

                      10	
  million	
  
                     mothers	
  are	
  
                    underemployed	
  
What and who do we know?
   Industry	
  
    experts	
  

 Designers	
  
and	
  ar3sans	
  


  Engineers	
  


  We	
  have	
  
tons	
  of	
  wool	
  
What don’t we know?
 Quality	
  of	
                      Tex3le	
     Op3mal	
  
                   Distribu3on	
  
wool	
  supply	
                     demand	
      product	
  	
  
What are the next steps?
                                                          Infrastructure	
  
                                                          Needs	
  
                                           Consumer	
  
                                           demand	
  
                            Producer	
  
                            Map	
  
Wool	
  
inventory	
  	
  	
  	
  
How can you get involved?



Par3cipa3on	
             Phone	
  and	
      Thoughts,	
  
                                                               Advisory	
  
in	
  our	
  online	
      in-­‐person	
     sugges3ons,	
                    Seed	
  funding	
  
                                                                board	
  
      surveys	
  	
       interviews	
        feedback	
  




                                                                             Sign up to be
                                                                          contacted for an
                                                                                interview!
Thank you!
Sources & Credits: 
Paige Green Photography
American Sheep Industry
Association
Fibershed.com
US Census Bureau
USDA
Iowa State University
Mike Corn, Roswell Wool
Laura M. Baughman
University of California, Davis
Food Commons
Localvore.com
Google Finance
National Academy of Sciences
Farm Bureau
Australian Centre for
International Economics

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Sheep to Chic - The Case for a Northern Califrornia Textile Mill

  • 1. Sheep to Chic The Business Case for a Northern California Wool Textile Mill
  • 2. What will I talk about today? Growing the local green economy Supporting California sheep farmers California Wool Mill Creating real livelihood for women Developing a sustainable textile supply chain
  • 3. Why don’t we use our own wool? Shift to overseas garment manufacturing Most US wool is exported US is largest Consumer awareness consumer of wool
  • 4. How many sheep in the US?
  • 5. Why did wool volume decline? Synthetic Fiber Foreign subsidies Meat packer consolidation National Wool Act US policy 1954-1994 Predators changes
  • 6. Why is New Zealand Successful?
  • 7. How is the US advertising wool? New farmer campaign to increase flock population
  • 8. Who Wants US Wool? LOHAS     Localvores   Designers   Ar3sans   Women are 85% of Consumer Market
  • 9. Why people want local? 700   Willingness to pay 25% or more price markup for local 600   500   400   300   200   100   0   Support ag and Perceived Safety Env. Benefits from Reduce fossil fuel local economy and Quality farms use Source: Iowa State University, Allan Ortiz 2010
  • 10. How do they want their wool? Fabric   Yarn   Roving   Raw   Wool   Home   Furnishings   Toys   Garments   Source: NAICS
  • 11. Is there an opportunity here? 600,000+ sheep 3 million+ lbs of wool 71% of California 27.7% is 22 farmers have micron & finer 24 or less sheep No fine grade fiber processing in CA 2007 USDA Census
  • 12. Perhaps there’s an opportunity? LOHAS  is  now  30%   of  total  market   Localvores  spend   $4.8  billion  on  local   Increase  in  local  cut   and  sew  opera3ons   Increase  in  labor   US wool prices are prices  abroad   60-75% of imported
  • 13. What exactly is the opportunity? One million lbs of processed wool = $40+ million in potential revenue
  • 14. How should we brand it? Sheep to Chic 100% Local
  • 15. What products should we make? How  much   direct  to   consumer?     How  much   fabric  for   designers?  
  • 16. What else could we make?
  • 17. How should we sell it? Retail     Online   Wholesale   Women-focused Partnerships   brand experience
  • 18. What infrastructure is needed? Weaving   Tumbling     Scouring     Carding     Spinning     KniWng   Picking   Fel3ng   Mobile   Central   Distributed  
  • 19. What is the material cycle? Supply  Chain   •  Sheep  farms   •  Natural  dye  farms   Product  Disposal     Produc3on   •  Compost   •  Central  mill   •  Repurposing  to  felt     •  Distributed  mini-­‐mills   Distribu3on     •  Retail     •  Online  
  • 20. What is the business structure? California Wool Mill 44% of Coops Only 19% of are still in standard business after corporations 10 yrs survive 10 yrs
  • 21. What would this look like? Coop owned     Childcare for small children Access to artisan tools, equipment, and classes
  • 22. Why is this so important? Economic opportunities for Only  6%  of   mothers mothers  in   Enable women to poverty  receive   public   provide for their assistance   children 25%  of  women   with  infants  live   in  poverty   10  million   mothers  are   underemployed  
  • 23. What and who do we know? Industry   experts   Designers   and  ar3sans   Engineers   We  have   tons  of  wool  
  • 24. What don’t we know? Quality  of   Tex3le   Op3mal   Distribu3on   wool  supply   demand   product    
  • 25. What are the next steps? Infrastructure   Needs   Consumer   demand   Producer   Map   Wool   inventory        
  • 26. How can you get involved? Par3cipa3on   Phone  and   Thoughts,   Advisory   in  our  online   in-­‐person   sugges3ons,   Seed  funding   board   surveys     interviews   feedback   Sign up to be contacted for an interview!
  • 27. Thank you! Sources & Credits: Paige Green Photography American Sheep Industry Association Fibershed.com US Census Bureau USDA Iowa State University Mike Corn, Roswell Wool Laura M. Baughman University of California, Davis Food Commons Localvore.com Google Finance National Academy of Sciences Farm Bureau Australian Centre for International Economics