1) In 1923, Egyptian explorer Ahmed Hassanein Bey led a six-month camel expedition across eastern Libya and into northern Sudan. His expedition discovered a source of water in Jebel Al-Awaynat mountain, enabling travel between southern Libya and northern Sudan. 2) Hassanein also discovered prehistoric rock engravings in Jebel Al-Awaynat, indicating human occupation thousands of years ago. He published his findings in National Geographic, bringing attention to the area. 3) Jebel Al-Awaynat and Arknu contain hundreds of prehistoric rock art sites dating from the Old Stone Age to late Holocene, as well as archaeological remains. The mountains have since been an important route between Libya

1. The Lost Oases – Awaynat and Arknu: Early
exploration of Eastern Libya and Northern
Sudan
By Mustafa J. Salem.
Figure 1: Landsat image of Jebel Al-Awaynat and Arknu, separated by, extensive longitudinal
sand dunes. This area on Libya’s eastern borders of Egypt and Sudan became an important route
between southern Libya and northern Sudan due to presence of water. Various wadis and small
but precious water springs are indicated. Karkur Idris and Karkur Ibrahim are within the Libyan
Territory; while Karkur At-Talah is in Egypt.
February 2014:
Ahmed Mohammed Hassanein Bey was an Egyptian graduate of Oxford University, a diplomat,
Olympic athlete, writer, photographer, explorer and tutor to King Farouk. He published in the
National Geographic Journal, September 1924, a long article describing his 2,200-mile Libyan
desert trip which he completed in 1923 and in which he crossed the eastern side of Libya and
continued his down to northern Sudan. His camel expedition, which lasted for more than six
months, was intended to find a link between Kufra in southern Libya and Al-Fasher in northern
Sudan.

2. He explained his objectives: “After my desert journey to the oasis of Kufra in 1921, my
sovereign manifested special interest in a proposed undertaking to bridge the gap between Kufra
and El Fasher.”
According to Hassanein Bey, the trip resulted in two important interesting results. The first and
most important was the fact that he reported the presence of a good source of water in Jebel
Awaynat which has since enabled travelers from Kufra to cross to Sudan stopping at Awaynat
for water supplies. His second important reported discovery was the presence of several sites in
Awaynat with pre-historic engravings and paintings which have since been studied and which
indicated that the history of these areas extends back thousands of years.
Figure 2: One of Hassanein’s helpers filling water in a goatskin from one of Awaynat springs
(1923). These springs, though they may have less water now due to hyper-aridity, are still
essential for travelers crossing borders between Libya and Sudan. (Photo: after
Saharasafaris.org)

3. Hassanein Bey laid the ground for spreading the importance of Jebel Arknu and Awaynat in his
article in National Geographic Magazine and in his book, The Lost Oases, which was published
a year later.
In his description of the discovery of water in the Awaynat mountain, he says: “We found ample
supplies of water in the deep-shaded recesses of the cliffs…. they are not depressions in the
desert with underground reservoirs but mountain areas, where rain water collects in natural
basins in the rocks. There are said to be seven such basins at Awaynat. I visited four and found
that the water of good quality” (Figures 2 and 3).
Hassanein’s other important discovery in his historic trip was described as follows: “It was in
Awaynat that I made the most interesting find of my 2,200-mile journey. I had heard rumours of
the existence of certain pictographs on rocks…., I was led by a native to the picture rocks. The
animals are rudely drawn, but not unskilfully carved. There are lions, giraffes, ostriches, and all
kinds of gazelles, but no camels. The carvings are from a half to a quarter of an inch deep and the
edges of the lines in some instances are considerably weathered. Perhaps even more significant is
the absence of camels from the drawings. If they had been native to the region at time that the
carvings were made, surely this most important beast of the desert would have been pictured. But
the camel came to Africa from Asia not later 500 BC.” (Figure 8).
From these descriptions Hassanein had not apparently come across any of the colour paintings
that are scattered in small shelters and on ledge sides in various areas of east and west Awaynat.
Figure 3: A small palm tree oasis at Ayn Bu Hliga, located at a small tributary of Karkur Idris.
Notice the blocky granites of Awaynat complex. (Photo: courtesy of Jamal Ergig)
Hassanien’s expedition not only accomplished the objectives laid by him prior to departure, but
also enhanced the significance of Kufra as the main oasis in south east Libya, linking Libya with
Sudan.
The town, an oasis based on enormous underground water reservoirs, has since gained
importance as a desert supply centre for the south of Libya and northern Sudan. Currently there
is a heavily used track linking the Kufra with Al-Fasher in Sudan. Besides its huge agricultural

4. project producing various types of produce including mangos, a large amount of this
underground water (fossil reservoir) is pumped through the Man-Made River to the coastal
towns in the north (Figure 4).
The presence of water in Awaynat and Arknu (the “Lost Oases”), was sufficiently well known
that many people from Kufra were able to take refuge in the Al- Awaynat mountain when the
Italian General Rodolfo Graziani captured Kufra in 1931. Supported and supplied from Kufra,
Awaynat mountain was thereafter a strategic border area that the Italians used as one of their
important frontline base in their efforts prior to Second World War to protect the area, and south-
eastern Libya in general, from being invaded either by the British from Egypt and Sudan or the
French from Chad.
It did not work. The Free French forces under the celebrated General Philippe Leclerc captured it
in 1941.
Following the historic visit and detailed description by Hassenein Bey and the discovery of water
there, the Awaynat area was visited by a number explorers who were either collecting
information about the area for strategic purposes or were looking for legendary town and oasis of
Zerzura (“Oasis of the Little Birds”). Perhaps the most frequent visitor in the 1930s prior to
World War Two was Count Lazlo Almasy and his colleagues from the so-called Zerzura Club
(for details about visits to Awaynat, see The Hunt for Zerzura by Saul Kelly, 2002 published by
John Murray).
Figure 4: A satellite image of the agriculture project in Al Kufra, functioning thanks to the fossil
water resources available in the desert area. These resources which were discovered since the

5. mid-1960s, are now being tapped not only for agriculture purposes but also are part of the Man-
Made River, where water is piped toward the coastal towns and cities in the north.
Landscape and History of Al Awaynat Mountain Area
The Awaynat and Arknu Mountains, situated in the border region between Libya, Sudan and
Egypt, with magnificent views, are cut by a number of large valleys which were densely
populated in prehistoric times. The area includes hundreds of pre-historic engravings and
paintings, which add to its importance as a tourist attraction. These pre-historic sites are found in
shelters along the sides of all the main valleys
Geologically, the Awaynat Mountain is composed of two very different types of rocks. The
western part, lying entirely in Libya, is composed of an of intrusive granitic ring complex, about
25 kilometres in diameter. The interior of the complex is being eroded and is cut by main wadis,
with scarce vegetation (Figure 5). These wadis are Karkur Hamid, Karkur Idriss and Karkur
Ibrahim draining the interior towards the west. Some permanent springs are found in the western
side of the mountain, namely Ayn Zuwaya, Ayn Doua and Ayn Bu Hliga.
The eastern part, which lies in Egyptian territory, consists of a large block of Paleozoic
sandstone, resting upon metamorphosed Precambrian Basement rocks. The area is drained by a
system of wadis, which merge to form the main Karkur At-Talah which drains toward the east-
northeast. A smaller valley, Karkur Murr drains the eastern foothills to the south into the
Sudanese territory. Near the mouth of Karkur Murr there is a spring that is called Ayn el Prince
(Ayn Murr) (Figure 1).

6. Figure 5: Photo A: Arknu Mountain with the igneous complex in the background. Some seasonal
vegetation after a scarce rain. Photo B : Centre area of the Awaynat Mountain. The interior of the
complex is eroded and cut by main wadis, with scarce vegetation. The granite complex is
forming the landscape around the eroded centre. Recent rain has resulted in some desert melons
and other seasonal vegetation. A single acacia tree in middle of wadi. (Photo: courtesy of Saleh
Bu Sakranah)
A scientific expedition to the Arknu and Al Awaynat mountains, organised by the Antiquity
Department with the University La Sapienza (Rome), shed light several years ago on an
unexpectedly rich cultural heritage, testifying human occupation from the Old Stone Age to late
Holocene. Several sites of various archaeological periods were recognised by the mission. Sites
belonging to the Pastoral Neolithic with desert artwork were identified. Sites with lithics,
ceramics, fireplaces and grinding stones and tethering stones were also reported by the experts of
the expedition.
But probably the most informative “recent” online site about the Eastern Libyan Desert can be
found at The Libyan Desert FJ Expeditions. This important site was initiated and developed by
Andras Zboray and Magdi Zboray, who have been visiting the areas of Awaynat and Gilf El-
Kebir in Libya and Egypt for more than 20 years. They have undertaken over 20 expeditions to
the areas. From the listing reported by Zboray in 2003 (Sahara Journal, 14, 2003, pp 111-127), it
is evident that eastern Awaynat (Karkur At-Talah and its tributaries) contains far more
prehistoric art sites than previously reported (various parts of Karkur At-Talah, 234 sites; various
parts of western Awaynat, 29 sites; Karkur Murr, four sites and Jebel Arknu, eight sites).
The prehistoric artwork of the western part of Awaynat was studied by various workers over the
years. According to Andras Zboray, Almasy and Count Lodovico di Caporiacco were the first to
discover paintings in Ayn Dua (western Al Awaynat) in 1933.
In the area of Bu Hliga which lies between Karkur Hamid and Karkur Idris, four sites were
reported by different explorers. Jean-Loïc Le Quellec published an important work on these sites
in 1998. He indicated that these paintings do not exceed 2000 BC. Le Quellec, also during his
visit to Al-Awaynat found four new sites in Karkur Ibrahim, including an interesting shelter with
a well preserved large group of cattle and humans (Figure 7) .

7. The eastern part of Al-Awaynat is as interesting as the western part due to its rock formation and
historic content. The area is cut by a major valley system (Karkur At-Talah) which drains
toward the north east. This valley is dense with vegetation cover, besides its richness in
engravings and paintings. According to Zboray, the central part of the wadi is rich in old
engravings, which include giraffes and ostriches, but no elephants or rhinoceros (Figure 8).
While the engravings, which are older, have variations in types of faunas, the paintings in this
Karkur At-Talah wadi are mostly formed of cattle. This puts these paintings within the ‘bovid
stage’.
Figure 6: A group of cows, with human figure, nicely painted using different colours , Al
Awaynat Mountain. According to J-L Le Quellec, these paintings do not exceed in age 2000 BC.
(Photo: courtesy of A.S. El-Hawat)

8. Figure 7: Well preserved scene of bovids, painted on granites of Al Awaynat at Wadi Bu Hliga.
The scene contains a cow giving birth (yellow circle). This site was reported first by J-L Le
Quellec, 1998, from a large shelter that has several figures. (Photo: Courtesy of Saleh Bu
Sakranah)
Figure 8: One of the sites that were reported by Hassanein Bey (1924), with engravings
of wild animals, including, giraffes, ostriches and gazelles. According to the
archaeologists, who worked in the area, these engravings are older than the paintings,
which are more common in the Al-Awaynat area. (Photo: from Saharasafaris.org)
Developing Al-Awaynat area as a destination

9. Al-Awaynat forms an important geological complex which is worth visiting, by experts as well
as by adventurers.
Its diversified landscape, variety of rock types (igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic), its
content of rare fauna and flora and its unique heritage content (prehistoric engravings and
paintings) makes this area very attractive as a tourist destination, provided it is developed, well
managed and promoted (Figures 6 and 7).
The fact that the complex is located in a border area between three neighbouring countries
(Libya, Egypt and Sudan) requires proper collaboration between them so that it will be
established as a ‘Geopark’. This is achievable.
Though quite remote, the area could be developed for small groups of interested tourists and
scientists starting either from Libya or Egypt.
From the Libyan side Kufra airport could be used to reach it. En route to Al-Awaynat some
interesting landscape could be visited – Jebel Azba and Aknu (Figures 5a and 9), as well as
some of Second World War sites. An ideal arrangement would be to be able to visit the east and
west parts of Al-Awaynat if some practical arrangements could be coordinated between the
border authorities in Libya and Egypt.
In such a case, visitors from Egypt could also combine the visit to Gilf el Kabir with Al Awaynat
(west and east).
But till that happens, the area of Al-Awaynat remains an important border crossing point
between Libya and northern Sudan, with heavy traffic – some of which involves not only regular
border traffic but also smuggling activities.
Figure 9: An attractive landscape at Jebel Azba, north of Al-Awaynat Mountain. An area which
could be visited on the way from Kufra.
Read more: http://www.libyaherald.com/2014/03/01/the-lost-oases-awaynat-and-arknu-early-
exploration-of-eastern-libya-and-northern-sudan/#ixzz2vXGdkLOa