The goldsmith tradition in Abruzzo, Italy dates back to the 13th century with the arrival of the Swabians. Sulmona became an important center for goldsmithing, producing religious objects through techniques like embossing and engraving. In the 18th-19th centuries, the craft spread to other towns in Abruzzo like Pescocostanzo and Scanno. Traditional filigree jewelry became popular, such as the "presentosa" medallion given to brides. Various towns developed their own specialized jewelry, with symbolic meanings related to customs like weddings. Goldsmithing continues to be influential to Abruzzese culture and identity.
1. GOLDSMITH IN ABRUZZO
Abruzzo’s tradition of the goldsmith has origins dating back to the 13th century with the
arrival of the Swabians. Sulmona, at the time of Frederick II of Swabia, was the main
town for the goldsmith school. The gold processing spread throughout the region with
the birth of several craft centres. Chalices, patens, pastorals, reliquaries, processional
crosses were worked through the technique of embossing and chiselling and then
enriched with enamel and stones. Today it is possible to admire these masterpieces
both in the Civic Museum of Sulmona and in the churches of L'Aquila and Pescara.
In the second half of the eighteenth century the influence of Naples and Rome affected
the activity of Abruzzo’s artisans.
2. In the 19th century, Pescocostanzo and Scanno together with L'Aquila saw the affirmation of artists who gave life
to that tradition linked to the customs and lifestyle of the lower classes. Among the objects still preserved today
there are buttons, "grapp" and "ciapp" (buckles and clasps for skirts and bodices) decorated with symbolic
figures; to these are added clasps for men, shoe buckles, pins for the female headgear, needles, thimbles and
other objects. Among the objects there was also the "teca" that the engaged couples exchanged to maintain
their love bond. During the nineteenth century the technique of filigree in gold and silver developed in Abruzzo,
consisting of very thin intertwined threads, beaten and welded together. The drawings, from which even today
the goldsmiths take inspiration, have similarities with “tombolo”. The filigree work originated from the works of
Nicola da Guardiagrele Gallucci or Nicola di Andrea di Pasquale (Guardiagrele, 1 March 1385 - Guardiagrele, 4
March 1462), who was an Italian goldsmith, engraver and painter.
Sulmona A town in the province of L'Aquila. It is located at a height of 405 m. Ancient Sulmona (Sulmo in latin)
was a town of the Peligni.
Pescocostanzo A town in the province of L'Aquila. It is located at a height of 1,395 m., on Mount Calvario.
Scanno A small town in the province of L'Aquila. The centre is at a height of 1,050 m., in the valley of the river
Tasso nestled between the Marsicani Mountains and Monte Genzana, 1.5 km South of the lake with the same
name.
3. The jewels in filigree, though uniting a lot of centres of the region (Pescocostanzo, Sulmona, Scanno,
L'Aquila, Chieti, Lanciano, Vasto, Ortona, Orsogna, Casoli, Castiglione Messer Marino, Guardiagrele,
Teramo, Campli, Nereto, Giulianova, Penne), are made with variants that distinguish the various
locations. An example is the symbolic object of Abruzzo: the “presentosa”, a star-shaped medallion,
with one or two hearts in the centre and surrounded by "spiralette" made of filigree. This jewel was
created with many variations of the classic motif both because each goldsmith wanted to differentiate
and because he made it following a specific request. The “presentosa” was given by the boyfriend to
his bride as a "present" to remind her of the marriage promise made to him. Among the precious
objects there were the "circej", navicella earrings with pendants formed by pearls or tacks. At Scanno,
the mother of the groom gave them to the young girl, slipping them into her ears on the occasion of
her first visit to her house. Also the "cannatòra" together with the "golden chest" was part of the
gifts that the family of the groom offered to the young bride. The "cannatòra" is a choker necklace, so
called because it was put ‘on the throat’ of the girl. It was formed by embossed spheres or ovals. The
"golden chest" or "pectoral" was sewn on the bridal gown. The mother-in-law put the necklace
around the neck of the young daughter-in-law to give her the role of ‘member of the new family’.
4. Among the different types of wedding rings, the oldest model is that with the hands joined on a
heart, the "manucce". The ring, called "cicirchjat", was probably reserved for men and then it was
handed down from father to son. At Scanno, “amorino” is another characteristic jewel, created by
Armando Di Rienzo and his family following an old tradition. This object was originally rigid. Then the
artisan decided to give it movement and embellished it by replacing the stones with pearls, corals,
turquoises and rubies. The “corniola ring”, typical of the goldsmith tradition of Pescocostanzo,
replaced the traditional wedding ring to represent a mutual promise. Made of gold, it contains a
carnelian engraved with a female or male profile of mythological or historical inspiration. It was
considered the ring of health.
The “Sciacquaije” are showy, boat-shaped earrings, belonging to the tradition of Pescocostanzo.
Different construction techniques are used to make this jewel: filigree, fretwork or even lost wax.
Composed of two bodies, they are embellished on the underside with oscillating pendants in gold or
stones, always in odd numbers. These earrings are also linked to superstition: the tinkling of the
pendants should preserve women from negative influences and evil eye.