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The Function of Consumption:
  Dining Differences in the
       Roman world
            Brian Conroy
    Prof. Julie Langford-Johnson
               HIS 4936
Wealthy vs. Ordinary Roman
 All ancient sources told only of upper class
  dining and nothing of the common man
 Archaeological sources are the main sources for
  common dining
 Fortunes were squandered on grossly expensive
  eating that sometimes led to bankruptcy
   Apicius, lived at the time of Tiberius, spent a million
    sesterces on food and commited suicide when he
    found he only had ten million left in his accounts
Wealthy vs. Ordinary Roman (cont.)
 Lucullus’ hosted Pompey and Cicero at a
  dinner that cost approximately 200,000
  sesterces
 Early Empire inaugural priestly dinner cost
  approximately 1 million sesterces
 Elegabalus never spent less than 100,000
  sesterces
Diet
 Shops and markets of Rome supplied by
  markets and gardens of the city, and farms of
  Italy and every province
 Basis of traditional diet, but not everywhere,
  were:
   Olives: need true Mediterranean climate; competed
    with sesame oil in Egypt and Near East
   Cereals: ubiquitous but differed regionally; wheat and
    barley to oats and rye
   Vines (legumes): supplied nutrients where cereals
    deficient; lentils, peas, and chickpeas
Diet (cont.)
 Commoners meal usually consisted of:
 Soup of meal, water, and bread
 Meat (rarely eaten) was pork; Fish in seaside
  towns and spread later due to preservation
  techniques
 Luxurious/Expensive Roman foods were Hares,
  Peacocks, Mullet, Lamprey, Flamingo
 Expensive foods usually called for exotic
  flavorings as well (i.e. pepper)
Diet (cont.)
 Dinner enjoyed by college ofpontifices for
  Lentulus upon inauguration as Flamen Martialis
  between 74 and 69 B.C.:
   “For hors d’oeuvres sea urchins, as many raw oysters
    as they wanted, palourdes, mussels, thrushes under a
    thatch of asparagus, a fattened chicken, a patina (pie)
    of oysters and palourdes, black piddocks, white
    piddocks. Then more mussels, clams, sea
    anemones, blackcaps, loin of roe deer and wild boar,
    fowls force-fed on wheatmeal…The dinner was udder,
    the split head of a wild boar, patina of fish, patina of
    udder, ducks, roast teal, hares, roast fowl, frumenty,
    and Picentine loaves (bread).”
             Macrobius, Saturnalia
Types of dining
 Breakfast
  Bread, cheese, vegetables, leftovers from
    night before
 Midday meal in the Thermopolium/taverns
  Bread, fried fish, sweets, fruits, sausages
 Dinner in Triclinium (dining room)
  Aperitif (akin to cocktail with hors d’oeuvres),
    main dishes of fowl, fish, hare), dessert of fruit
Dinner Parties
   Didn’t happen every night; sometimes with family and a
    few friends
   Convivium was “not merely the appreciation of wine and
    food, but the enjoyment of philosophy, literature, music,
    and all the arts and entertainment; the observation, too
    of fellow human beings, with the flirtations, courtships,
    friendship, and love that may follow.”
   Nine was the target number, though sometimes larger
   Vomitorium was actually a passage behind a tier of seats
    in an amphitheatre through which crowds would leave at
    the end of a show
   A very small minority practiced deliberate vomiting
   Emetics for vomiting endorsed by doctors in antiquity
Social Concerns and Levels
 Diners were placed in positions of either
  “above” or “below” companions, according
  to social status; guest of honor sat in
  special place (consular’s spot)
 Host and family were on the lectus imus,
  while distinguished guest on the lectus
  medius
Social Concerns and Levels (cont.)
 Status of person compared to others
  shown at dinner
 Guests were frequently graded and given
  different food, wine, and table ware
  accordingly if they were minor friends,
  clients, or freedmen
  Example: a freedman would be given an eel
   while his host dined on a lamprey
Social Concerns and Levels (cont.)
 Client: social inferiors entertained; social barriers
  lowered; host attempts pretence of social
  equality
 Protégé: prospective recruit into governing class
  invited as dinner guest to meet important people;
  common practice of aristocracy to keep social
  class going
 Peer-Group: social equals; could be purely
  social equals, but highly political occasion in
  Late Republican Rome
Social Concerns and Levels (cont.)
 Women
 Roman women were allowed at convivium,
  while a Greek symposium was “No Girls
  Allowed”
 Culture Clash: “It is not the Greeks’ custom
  that women should recline in a convivium of
  men,” Lampsacene father stiffly says when
  Roman administrator Verres hoped to meet
  his daughter at dinner
Concerning the Emperor
 ‘The Feast of the Divine Twelve’
 The Twelve Caesars,      Suetonius
   Strengths: Access to Imperial archives
   Limitations: spiteful letter from M. Antony and
    anonymous lampoon; lived after Augustus’ time
 Augustus held banquet with everyone dressed
  as a god or goddess
 Happened during time of food shortage: “The
  gods have gobbled all the grain!”
 Told of Augustus’ fondness not only of food, but
  also vices of expensive furniture (ivory) and
  gaming
Concerning the Emperor (cont.)
   On Anger, Seneca the Younger
     Strengths: Lived during last ten years of Augustus’ reign;
      eyewitness accounts
     Limitations: Because of time period, had to write very carefully
      about Augustus because memory still fresh to empire
   Augustus at dinner with friend V. Pollio, and slave broke
    a crystal cup and Vedius Pollio ordered him thrown to
    flesh eating lampreys
   Augustus intervened and was so angry at Pollio that
    ordered all crystal cups smashed and lamprey pond filled
    in
   Shows difference years make from vices in ‘Feast of the
    Divine Twelve’ to conservativism at V. Pollio’s
Concerning the Emperor (cont.)
   ‘A Thank-Offering to the Empeor Augustus Germanicus
    Domitianus,’ Silvae, Statius
   Strengths: Huge flatterer, court poet, sincere in flattery
   Limitations: Non-aristocratic lineage, outsider looking in
    on aristocracy, writing with anxiety during tense period of
    Domitian’s reign
   Writing about how stunned he is to be sitting at the same
    dinner table with the emperor
   The gods smile down upon him and they even toil for the
    good of his armies
   Day of his invitation was as bright as when Domitian
    crowned his for victory at poetry contest

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The Function of Consumption: Dining Differences in the Roman World

  • 1. The Function of Consumption: Dining Differences in the Roman world Brian Conroy Prof. Julie Langford-Johnson HIS 4936
  • 2. Wealthy vs. Ordinary Roman  All ancient sources told only of upper class dining and nothing of the common man  Archaeological sources are the main sources for common dining  Fortunes were squandered on grossly expensive eating that sometimes led to bankruptcy  Apicius, lived at the time of Tiberius, spent a million sesterces on food and commited suicide when he found he only had ten million left in his accounts
  • 3.
  • 4. Wealthy vs. Ordinary Roman (cont.)  Lucullus’ hosted Pompey and Cicero at a dinner that cost approximately 200,000 sesterces  Early Empire inaugural priestly dinner cost approximately 1 million sesterces  Elegabalus never spent less than 100,000 sesterces
  • 5. Diet  Shops and markets of Rome supplied by markets and gardens of the city, and farms of Italy and every province  Basis of traditional diet, but not everywhere, were:  Olives: need true Mediterranean climate; competed with sesame oil in Egypt and Near East  Cereals: ubiquitous but differed regionally; wheat and barley to oats and rye  Vines (legumes): supplied nutrients where cereals deficient; lentils, peas, and chickpeas
  • 6.
  • 7. Diet (cont.)  Commoners meal usually consisted of:  Soup of meal, water, and bread  Meat (rarely eaten) was pork; Fish in seaside towns and spread later due to preservation techniques  Luxurious/Expensive Roman foods were Hares, Peacocks, Mullet, Lamprey, Flamingo  Expensive foods usually called for exotic flavorings as well (i.e. pepper)
  • 8.
  • 9.
  • 10. Diet (cont.)  Dinner enjoyed by college ofpontifices for Lentulus upon inauguration as Flamen Martialis between 74 and 69 B.C.:  “For hors d’oeuvres sea urchins, as many raw oysters as they wanted, palourdes, mussels, thrushes under a thatch of asparagus, a fattened chicken, a patina (pie) of oysters and palourdes, black piddocks, white piddocks. Then more mussels, clams, sea anemones, blackcaps, loin of roe deer and wild boar, fowls force-fed on wheatmeal…The dinner was udder, the split head of a wild boar, patina of fish, patina of udder, ducks, roast teal, hares, roast fowl, frumenty, and Picentine loaves (bread).”  Macrobius, Saturnalia
  • 11. Types of dining  Breakfast Bread, cheese, vegetables, leftovers from night before  Midday meal in the Thermopolium/taverns Bread, fried fish, sweets, fruits, sausages  Dinner in Triclinium (dining room) Aperitif (akin to cocktail with hors d’oeuvres), main dishes of fowl, fish, hare), dessert of fruit
  • 12.
  • 13.
  • 14.
  • 15. Dinner Parties  Didn’t happen every night; sometimes with family and a few friends  Convivium was “not merely the appreciation of wine and food, but the enjoyment of philosophy, literature, music, and all the arts and entertainment; the observation, too of fellow human beings, with the flirtations, courtships, friendship, and love that may follow.”  Nine was the target number, though sometimes larger  Vomitorium was actually a passage behind a tier of seats in an amphitheatre through which crowds would leave at the end of a show  A very small minority practiced deliberate vomiting  Emetics for vomiting endorsed by doctors in antiquity
  • 16.
  • 17. Social Concerns and Levels  Diners were placed in positions of either “above” or “below” companions, according to social status; guest of honor sat in special place (consular’s spot)  Host and family were on the lectus imus, while distinguished guest on the lectus medius
  • 18.
  • 19. Social Concerns and Levels (cont.)  Status of person compared to others shown at dinner  Guests were frequently graded and given different food, wine, and table ware accordingly if they were minor friends, clients, or freedmen Example: a freedman would be given an eel while his host dined on a lamprey
  • 20. Social Concerns and Levels (cont.)  Client: social inferiors entertained; social barriers lowered; host attempts pretence of social equality  Protégé: prospective recruit into governing class invited as dinner guest to meet important people; common practice of aristocracy to keep social class going  Peer-Group: social equals; could be purely social equals, but highly political occasion in Late Republican Rome
  • 21. Social Concerns and Levels (cont.)  Women Roman women were allowed at convivium, while a Greek symposium was “No Girls Allowed” Culture Clash: “It is not the Greeks’ custom that women should recline in a convivium of men,” Lampsacene father stiffly says when Roman administrator Verres hoped to meet his daughter at dinner
  • 22. Concerning the Emperor  ‘The Feast of the Divine Twelve’  The Twelve Caesars, Suetonius  Strengths: Access to Imperial archives  Limitations: spiteful letter from M. Antony and anonymous lampoon; lived after Augustus’ time  Augustus held banquet with everyone dressed as a god or goddess  Happened during time of food shortage: “The gods have gobbled all the grain!”  Told of Augustus’ fondness not only of food, but also vices of expensive furniture (ivory) and gaming
  • 23. Concerning the Emperor (cont.)  On Anger, Seneca the Younger  Strengths: Lived during last ten years of Augustus’ reign; eyewitness accounts  Limitations: Because of time period, had to write very carefully about Augustus because memory still fresh to empire  Augustus at dinner with friend V. Pollio, and slave broke a crystal cup and Vedius Pollio ordered him thrown to flesh eating lampreys  Augustus intervened and was so angry at Pollio that ordered all crystal cups smashed and lamprey pond filled in  Shows difference years make from vices in ‘Feast of the Divine Twelve’ to conservativism at V. Pollio’s
  • 24. Concerning the Emperor (cont.)  ‘A Thank-Offering to the Empeor Augustus Germanicus Domitianus,’ Silvae, Statius  Strengths: Huge flatterer, court poet, sincere in flattery  Limitations: Non-aristocratic lineage, outsider looking in on aristocracy, writing with anxiety during tense period of Domitian’s reign  Writing about how stunned he is to be sitting at the same dinner table with the emperor  The gods smile down upon him and they even toil for the good of his armies  Day of his invitation was as bright as when Domitian crowned his for victory at poetry contest