This document summarizes the evolution of western women's fashion from the late 1700s to modern day. It discusses how fashion reflected social class in the late 1700s, with wealthy women wearing elaborate dresses and wigs while poorer women wore simpler bonnets and hats. It then outlines changes over time, such as the rise of pants in the late 1800s and their growing acceptance in the 20th century. The document attributes fashion changes to factors like industrialization, women entering the workforce, feminist movements, and globalization enabling cheaper imported clothing.
This book is for all the women who have stood strong against the social inequalities and made a place for today’s women, the new women. This book is for those whose battle has won liberation and freedom in a patriarchal world. Every modern women owes it to the women of the past who initiated the feminist revolution.
This book is for all the women who have stood strong against the social inequalities and made a place for today’s women, the new women. This book is for those whose battle has won liberation and freedom in a patriarchal world. Every modern women owes it to the women of the past who initiated the feminist revolution.
I'm glad so many are enjoying these notes. They came from my Historic Costume class I took in college and I still love them years later. I hate that some of the slides are all jumbled up looking. It is a interactive slide show and when it uploaded, it did that. If anybody wants the original file, I will be glad to email it. Just let me know.
I'm glad so many are enjoying these notes. They came from my Historic Costume class I took in college and I still love them years later. I hate that some of the slides are all jumbled up looking. It is a interactive slide show and when it uploaded, it did that. If anybody wants the original file, I will be glad to email it. Just let me know.
‘Fashion’ is a notoriously difficult term to pin down, and it is extremely doubtful whether it is possible to come up with necessary and sufficient conditions for something justifiably to be called ‘fashionable’. Generally speaking, we can distinguish between two main categories in our notion of fashion: one that fashion refers to clothing or that fashion is a general mechanism, logic or ideology that, among other things, applies to the area of clothing.
Adam Smith , who was among the first philosophers to give fashion a central role in his anthropology, claims that fashion applies first and foremost to areas in which taste is
a central concept. This applies in particular to clothes and furniture, but also to music, poetry and architecture. Immanuel Kant provides a description of fashion that focuses on general changes in human lifestyles: ‘All fashions are, by their very concept, mutable ways of living.’
However, trends die quickly and with that comes waste. Clothing produced by fast fashion brands are oftentimes made from cheap materials, like polyester and acrylic, and not built to last: The average American throws away 80 pounds of clothing every year. We’ve been conditioned to believe that buying a garment and wearing it once is justifiable. It’s not. Due to the growing demand in the fast fashion industry, we see a vast overproduction of clothing; for example, the Copenhagen Fashion Summit reports that fashion is responsible for 92 million tons of solid waste dumped in landfills each year. This cultural shift on how we consume clothing is leaving a huge mark on the planet. Fashion has become much more than representation and being covered.
Exquisite luxury brands at SDH. From fashion houses like Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Moschino to trendy labels like Off-White, MCM, and Versace, we offer a curated collection Women's Clothing of designer fashion.
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17th and 18th Century
During the 17th century France, England, and Spain continued to rule Europe; The late 16th century was all about a mannerist style, however, that soon morphed into a Baroque style and quickly spread like wildfire throughout Europe. During this time, early puritan settlers had just made it to America and set up roots in New England; Places such as Holland had developed a prosperous middle class and England relied on the aristocracy as they had in the past. At the time textile machinery was gradually evolving and a new loom was introduced.
In the 17th century fashion plates were being produced in Paris, these plates are similar to a modern-day fashion magazine (picture Vogue painted on a large plate with a caption) and have helped historians set the scene for what garments and everyday life may have looked like back then. When it comes to men’s costumes not much shifted from the early 16th century to the 17th century, however, they began wearing cravats which were scarf like pieces that separates the shirts and were worn in place of collars. Instead of doublets which were very popular among men in earlier centuries they began wearing surouts and justacorps; these jackets had straight sleeves with cuffs and buttons down the front and the main difference was the fact that they covered the breeches completely. Breeches during the 17th century became slimmer and less full then other years and stopped right at the knee. Men’s wigs also grew much larger and were often worn in the natural colors they came in. Some things that stayed the same were shoes, men still preferred shoes over boots.
Women’s costume during the 17th century saw no major changes as well; The necklines became squarer and less reveling and corsets became visible. Corsets became visible at the front of the bodice and formed a V at the waist, since they were visible it meant they became heavily decorated and elaborate. A new dress cut also appeared at this time, the bodice and skirt were cut together in one length from shoulder to hem; this became known as Mantua and historians believe it to have evolved from middle-eastern robes. The final garment was very full both in the front and back and was always worn over a corset and overskirt. If women were to wear it to a formal event then the skirt was pleated and belted in the back, often skirts were pulled to the back and fastened to have a draped effect on the body.
Fig. 1 & 2. Mantua style dress (Maker unknown. Mantua, 1708. Silk and metal. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1991.6.1a, b. Purchase, Rogers Fund, Isabel Shults Fund and Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1991. Source: The Met)
We saw a change in the shape of women’s shoes during this time, they became more pointed, heels became higher, and the shoes became narrower. The design became more decorated and elaborate and leather became used more and more. Pantof.
Deviant DressAuthor(s) Elizabeth WilsonSource Femin.docxShiraPrater50
Deviant Dress
Author(s): Elizabeth Wilson
Source: Feminist Review, No. 35 (Summer, 1990), pp. 67-74
Published by: Palgrave Macmillan Journals
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DEVIANT DRESS
Elizabeth Wilson
In the late 1980s it has increasingly seemed that lesbians experience a
freedom and a pleasure in dress that is denied, if not to heterosexual
women in general, at least to heterosexual feminists. The dyke event of
the year in London in the winter of 1986/7 was a glamour ball, 'Come
Dancing' at which women once seen in boots, denim and leather
appeared in frocks, high heels, lipstick and decolletage - items they
would not have even thought of wearing in the seventies. Now,
everything's changed. Tickets were like gold dust.
The feminist debates of the eighties have placed representation at
the core of feminist concerns. These debates have included not only the
role of pornography, advertising and other branches of the popular
media in constructing women - or femininity - culturally, but have also
made us aware of the extent to which we create individual identities by
putting together our own self-representations. Clothes play a key part
in our acts of self-presentation, whether we like it - or recognize it - or
not.
In this article I want to do three things: relate the fashions of the
lesbian subculture to mainstream fashion; discuss their convergence in
the 1960s and since; and suggest ways in which specifically lesbian
styles may challenge what are still 'taken-for-granted' assumptions for
some feminists.
Feminists and fashion
It has long been a standard figure of speech to refer to the way in which
individuals of both sexes take a 'pride in their appearance'. The word
'appearance', so taken for granted as a part of the vocabulary of
grooming and fashion, actually acknowledges the performance element
Feminist Review No 35, Summer 1990
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68 Feminist Review
in dress. In our hairstyles, our choice of clothes and our use (or not) of
cosmetics we create an 'appearance' for public and private consumption;
an image whose rel ...
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2. My objectives
My objective to to analyze the shift of clothing for
western women.
I will address and compare the types of clothing over
time.
I will explain some political, economical, social, and
medical reasons for fashion change.
I have used many academic journals and scholarly
sources to establish these findings.
3. According t
Anthropologist
Since the 1980’s Anthropologist have placed
emphasis on clothing. They have placed body
surface at center stage. As the desired body
dimensions change clothing evolves. Other factors
are social structure, social agency, economy, or
accessibility of affordable clothing.
Social structure- influences like social class, religion,
gender, ethnicity, and customs.
Social agency- the capacity of individuals to act
freely and make their own choices.
4. Women of privilege in the late
1700’s
Today our clothing varies but in the late 1700’s clothing
painted a portrait of your class.
Wigs, fancy hats, and well
fitted extravagant dresses
were a great indicator of
wealth.
5. Working class attire of the late
1700’s
Many servants in this period wore bonnets or
hats rather than wigs. Some servants were
offered second hand clothes from their masters
but they would sell them to survive rather than
wear them.
Working class
women almost
always wore hats.
6. About the working class?
It is harder to study the working class in earlier eras.
One of the main reasons is the fact that few artists would
spend the time painting someone without wealth.
Wealthy people were regularly painted but working class
couldn’t pay to plaster their walls with self portraits.
7. Von Sömmerring
Von Sömmerring, a physician and well-known anatomist,
argued that the back-laced corset, as worn by fashionable
ladies of the time, constituted a heath hazard by
compressing the ribs and other internal organs and he
claimed that this lead to tuberculosis, cancer, and scoliosis,
or curvature of the spine.
He spread his cause throughout newspapers and eventually
wrote a best selling book in 1803 that was translated in many
different languages.
Feminist pressed for less constricting attire.
8.
9. 1800’s
In the early 1800’s start to see a more cone-
shaped dress pattern emerge. Apart from that
petticoats surfaced.
10. Mid 1800’s
Between 1820 and 1840 the west experienced major
shifts in clothing due to the industrial revolution.
Textiles were the dominant industry of the Industrial
Revolution in terms of employment, value of output and
capital invested.
This made clothing more accessible and cheap.
Clothing started becoming a phenomenon rather than a
necessity.
11. Introduction of pants for western
women
During the late 1800s, women started to wear pants for
industrial work. During World War II, women wore their
husband's pants while they took on jobs, and in the
1970s, pants became especially fashionable for
women.
12. Negative reactions over fashion?
In the 1920’s places such as France fashion was still a
highly charged issue.
In 1925 a woman cut her hair resulting in actual tears
and grinding of teeth.
Men would actually lock their daughters in the house
until their hair grew back.
This was labeled an epidemic and men would sue
barbers that cut their women's hair.
The bob was considered “promiscuous” and caused
deaths for over a decade.
This style women adapted was the “ flapper” style.
13. 1900s
The early 1900’s we start to see the hoop
disappearing and gowns slimming down.
Late 1930/
1940’s
1900 / 1910 1970 / 1980
14. Modern dress
From the 1970’s to modern day pants have been
especially fashionable for women.
The 1940’s set the acceptance for shorter hair. Now
most women have short to shoulder length hair.
Most women own over 10 outfits yet they can never
find “anything” to wear.
Because many of our clothes are made in third world
countries they are very cheap and affordable.
15. Globalization
Globalization is a process of interaction and integration
among the people, companies, and governments of
different nations, a process driven by international trade.
The west does not get many of it’s materials or even
clothing from the actual west. Globalization has changed
clothing astronomically. Many of our outfits come from
China and if this were not the case not as many
westerners would have the clothing they obtain.
18. Evolution of fashion in a
nutshell
As the rights of women changed and movements
occurred clothing became more comfortable.
As women took on men's roles and jobs the stereotype
of what women should wear changed.
As nations became industrialized clothing became
easier and cheaper to make.
Industrial revolution also expanded middle class so
more people could afford clothing.
As globalization kicked in westerners have been able
to get cheaper clothing elsewhere.
19. Created by Jessica Fowler
Second year student Delta College of Michigan.
Marketing management major.
History 112- Later Western Civilizations,Professor
Laura Dull, Fall 2014.
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