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Test bank for Big Java: Early Objects 6th Edition by Horstmann
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- 5. Syntax 1.1 JavaProgram InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 1.1 Omitting Semicolons 1.6 Errors InterActivities Common Error 1.2 Misspelling Words 1.7 Problem Solving: Algorithm Design 1.7.1 The Algorithm Concept 1.7.2 An Algorithm for Solving an Investment Problem 1.7.3 Pseudocode 1.7.4 From Algorithms to Programs InterActivities How To 1.1 Describing an Algorithm with Pseudocode Worked Example 1.1 Writing an Algorithm for Tiling a Floor Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 2. Using Objects 2.1 Objects and Classes 2.1.1 Using Objects 2.1.2 Classes InterActivities 2.2 Variables 2.2.1 Variable Declarations Syntax 2.1 Variable Declaration InterActivities 2.2.2 Types InterActivities 2.2.3 Names InterActivities 2.2.4 Comments InterActivities 2.2.5 Assignment Syntax 2.2 Assignment InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 2.1 Using Undeclared or Uninitialized Variables Common Error 2.2 Confusing Variable Declarations and Assignment Statements Programming Tip 2.1 Choose Descriptive Variable Names
- 6. 2.3 Calling Methods 2.3.1The Public Interface of a Class 2.3.2 Method Arguments 2.3.3 Return Values 2.3.4 Method Declarations InterActivities Programming Tip 2.2 Learn By Trying 2.4 Constructing Objects Syntax 2.3 Object Construction InterActivities Common Error 2.3 Trying to Invoke a Constructor Like a Method 2.5 Accessor and Mutator Methods InterActivities 2.6 The API Documentation 2.6.1 Browsing the API Documentation 2.6.2 Packages Syntax 2.4 Importing a Class from a Package InterActivities Programming Tip 2.3 Don’t Memorize—Use Online Help 2.7 Implementing a Test Program (Testing Track) InterActivities More InterActivities Special Topic 2.1 Testing Classes in an Interactive Environment Worked Example 2.1 How Many Days Have You Been Alive? Worked Example 2.2 Working with Pictures 2.8 Object References InterActivities Computing & Society 2.1 Computer Monopoly 2.9 Graphical Applications (Graphics Track) 2.9.1 Frame Windows 2.9.2 Drawing on a Component 2.9.3 Displaying a Component in a Frame InterActivities More InterActivities 2.10 Ellipses, Lines, Text, and Color (Graphics Track) 2.10.1 Ellipses and Circles 2.10.2 Lines 2.10.3 Drawing Text 2.10.4 Colors InterActivities More InterActivities Chapter Summary
- 7. Review Exercises Practice Exercises ProgrammingProjects 3. Implementing Classes 3.1 Instance Variables and Encapsulation 3.1.1 Instance Variables Syntax 3.1 Instance Variable Declaration 3.1.2 The Methods of the Counter Class 3.1.3 Encapsulation InterActivities 3.2 Specifying the Public Interface of a Class 3.2.1 Specifying Methods 3.2.2 Specifying Constructors Syntax 3.2 Class Declaration 3.2.3 Using the Public Interface 3.2.4 Commenting the Public Interface InterActivities Common Error 3.1 Declaring a Constructor as void Programming Tip 3.1 The javadoc Utility 3.3 Providing the Class Implementation 3.3.1 Providing Instance Variables 3.3.2 Providing Constructors 3.3.3 Providing Methods InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 3.2 Ignoring Parameter Variables How To 3.1 Implementing a Class Worked Example 3.1 Making a Simple Menu 3.4 Unit Testing (Testing Track) InterActivities Computing & Society 3.1 Electronic Voting Machines 3.5 Problem Solving: Tracing Objects InterActivities 3.6 Local Variables InterActivities Common Error 3.3 Duplicating Instance Variables in Local Variables Common Error 3.4 Providing Unnecessary Instance Variables Common Error 3.5 Forgetting to Initialize Object References in a Constructor 3.7 The this Reference InterActivities
- 8. Special Topic 3.1 CallingOne Constructor from Another 3.8 Shape Classes (Graphics Track) InterActivities More InterActivities How To 3.2 Drawing Graphical Shapes Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 4. Fundamental Data Types 4.1 Numbers 4.1.1 Number Types 4.1.2 Constants Syntax 4.1 Constant Declaration InterActivities Special Topic 4.1 Big Numbers Programming Tip 4.1 Do Not Use Magic Numbers 4.2 Arithmetic 4.2.1 Arithmetic Operators 4.2.2 Increment and Decrement 4.2.3 Integer Division and Remainder 4.2.4 Powers and Roots 4.2.5 Converting Floating-Point Numbers to Integers Syntax 4.2 Cast InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 4.1 Unintended Integer Division Common Error 4.2 Unbalanced Parentheses Programming Tip 4.2 Spaces in Expressions Java 8 Note 4.1 Avoiding Negative Remainders Special Topic 4.2 Combining Assignment and Arithmetic Special Topic 4.3 Instance Methods and Static Methods Computing & Society 4.1 The Pentium Floating-Point Bug 4.3 Input and Output 4.3.1 Reading Input Syntax 4.3 Input Statement 4.3.2 Formatted Output InterActivities
- 9. More InterActivities How To4.1 Carrying Out Computations Worked Example 4.1 Computing the Volume and Surface Area of a Pyramid 4.4 Problem Solving: First Do It By Hand InterActivities More InterActivities Worked Example 4.2 Computing Travel Time 4.5 Strings 4.5.1 The String Type 4.5.2 Concatenation 4.5.3 String Input 4.5.4 Escape Sequences 4.5.5 Strings and Characters 4.5.6 Substrings InterActivities More InterActivities Programming Tip 4.3 Reading Exception Reports Special Topic 4.4 Using Dialog Boxes for Input and Output Computing & Society 4.2 International Alphabets and Unicode Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 5. Decisions 5.1 The if Statement Syntax 5.1 if Statement InterActivities More InterActivities Programming Tip 5.1 Brace Layout Programming Tip 5.2 Always Use Braces Common Error 5.1 A Semicolon After the if Condition Programming Tip 5.3 Tabs Special Topic 5.1 The Conditional Operator Programming Tip 5.4 Avoid Duplication in Branches 5.2 Comparing Values 5.2.1 Relational Operators Syntax 5.2 Comparisons
- 10. 5.2.2 Comparing Floating-PointNumbers 5.2.3 Comparing Strings 5.2.4 Comparing Objects 5.2.5 Testing for null InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 5.2 Using == to Compare Strings How To 5.1 Implementing an if Statement Worked Example 5.1 Extracting the Middle Computing & Society 5.1 Denver’s Luggage Handling System 5.3 Multiple Alternatives InterActivities More InterActivities Special Topic 5.2 The switch Statement 5.4 Nested Branches InterActivities More InterActivities Programming Tip 5.5 Hand-Tracing Common Error 5.3 The Dangling else Problem Special Topic 5.3 Block Scope Special Topic 5.4 Enumeration Types 5.5 Problem Solving: Flowcharts InterActivities 5.6 Problem Solving: Selecting Test Cases (Testing Track) InterActivities Programming Tip 5.6 Make a Schedule and Make Time for Unexpected Problems Special Topic 5.5 Logging 5.7 Boolean Variables and Operators InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 5.4 Combining Multiple Relational Operators Common Error 5.5 Confusing && and || Conditions Special Topic 5.6 Short-Circuit Evaluation of Boolean Operators Special Topic 5.7 De Morgan’s Law
- 11. 5.8 Application: InputValidation InterActivities More InterActivities Computing & Society 5.2 Artificial Intelligence Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 6. Loops 6.1 The while Loop Syntax 6.1 while Statement InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 6.1 Don’t Think “Are We There Yet?” Common Error 6.2 Infinite Loops Common Error 6.3 Off-by-One Errors 6.2 Problem Solving: Hand-Tracing InterActivities More InterActivities Computing & Society 6.1 Digital Piracy 6.3 The for Loop Syntax 6.2 for Statement InterActivities More InterActivities Programming Tip 6.1 Use for Loops for Their Intended Purpose Only Programming Tip 6.2 Choose Loop Bounds That Match Your Task Programming Tip 6.3 Count Iterations Special Topic 6.1 Variables Declared in a for Loop Header 6.4 The do Loop InterActivities More InterActivities Programming Tip 6.4 Flowcharts for Loops 6.5 Application: Processing Sentinel Values InterActivities More InterActivities Special Topic 6.2 Redirection of Input and Output Special Topic 6.3 The “Loop and a Half” Problem Special Topic 6.4
- 12. The break andcontinue Statements 6.6 Problem Solving: Storyboards InterActivities More InterActivities 6.7 Common Loop Algorithms 6.7.1 Sum and Average Value InterActivities 6.7.2 Counting Matches InterActivities More InterActivities 6.7.3 Finding the First Match InterActivities More InterActivities 6.7.4 Prompting Until a Match is Found InterActivities 6.7.5 Maximum and Minimum InterActivities 6.7.6 Comparing Adjacent Values InterActivities More InterActivities How To 6.1 Writing a Loop Worked Example 6.1 Credit Card Processing 6.8 Nested Loops InterActivities Worked Example 6.2 Manipulating the Pixels in an Image 6.9 Application: Random Numbers and Simulations 6.9.1 Generating Random Numbers InterActivities 6.9.2 The Monte Carlo Method InterActivities More InterActivities 6.10 Using a Debugger (Testing Track) InterActivities How To 6.2 Debugging Worked Example 6.3 A Sample Debugging Session Computing & Society 6.2 The First Bug Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 7. Arrays and Array Lists 7.1 Arrays 7.1.1 Declaring and Using Arrays
- 13. Syntax 7.1 Arrays InterActivities MoreInterActivities 7.1.2 Array References InterActivities 7.1.3 Using Arrays with Methods 7.1.4 Partially Filled Arrays InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 7.1 Bounds Errors Common Error 7.2 Uninitialized and Unfilled Arrays Programming Tip 7.1 Use Arrays for Sequences of Related Items Programming Tip 7.2 Make Parallel Arrays into Arrays of Objects Special Topic 7.1 Methods with a Variable Number of Arguments Computing & Society 7.1 Computer Viruses 7.2 The Enhanced for Loop Syntax 7.2 The Enhanced for Loop InterActivities 7.3 Common Array Algorithms 7.3.1 Filling InterActivities More InterActivities 7.3.2 Sum and Average Value InterActivities 7.3.3 Maximum and Minimum InterActivities 7.3.4 Element Separators 7.3.5 Linear Search InterActivities More InterActivities 7.3.6 Removing an Element InterActivities 7.3.7 Inserting an Element InterActivities 7.3.8 Swapping Elements InterActivities 7.3.9 Copying Arrays InterActivities More InterActivities 7.3.10 Reading Input Common Error 7.3 Underestimating the Size of a Data Set Special Topic 7.2
- 14. Sorting with theJava Library 7.4 Problem Solving: Adapting Algorithms InterActivities More InterActivities How To 7.1 Working with Arrays Worked Example 7.1 Rolling the Dice 7.5 Problem Solving: Discovering Algorithms by Manipulating Physical Objects InterActivities 7.6 Two-Dimensional Arrays 7.6.1 Declaring Two-Dimensional Arrays Syntax 7.3 Two-Dimensional Array Declaration InterActivities 7.6.2 Accessing Elements InterActivities 7.6.3 Locating Neighboring Elements More InterActivities 7.6.4 Accessing Rows and Columns InterActivities More InterActivities Worked Example 7.2 A World Population Table Special Topic 7.3 Two-Dimensional Arrays with Variable Row Lengths Special Topic 7.4 Multidimensional Arrays 7.7 Array Lists Syntax 7.4 Array Lists 7.7.1 Declaring and Using Array Lists InterActivities 7.7.2 Using the Enhanced for Loop with Array Lists InterActivities More InterActivities 7.7.3 Copying Array Lists InterActivities More InterActivities 7.7.4 Wrappers and Auto-boxing InterActivities More InterActivities 7.7.5 Using Array Algorithms with Array Lists InterActivities More InterActivities 7.7.6 Storing Input Values in an Array List More InterActivities 7.7.7 Removing Matches More InterActivities 7.7.8 Choosing Between Array Lists and Arrays
- 15. Common Error 7.4 Lengthand Size Special Topic 7.5 The Diamond Syntax 7.8 Regression Testing (Testing Track) Programming Tip 7.3 Batch Files and Shell Scripts Computing & Society 7.2 The Therac-25 Incidents Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 8. Designing Classes 8.1 Discovering Classes InterActivities 8.2 Designing Good Methods 8.2.1 Providing a Cohesive Public Interface 8.2.2 Minimizing Dependencies 8.2.3 Separating Accessors and Mutators 8.2.4 Minimizing Side Effects InterActivities More InterActivities Programming Tip 8.1 Consistency Special Topic 8.1 Call by Value and Call by Reference 8.3 Problem Solving: Patterns for Object Data 8.3.1 Keeping a Total 8.3.2 Counting Events 8.3.3 Collecting Values 8.3.4 Managing Properties of an Object 8.3.5 Modeling Objects with Distinct States 8.3.6 Describing the Position of an Object InterActivities More InterActivities 8.4 Static Variables and Methods InterActivities More InterActivities Programming Tip 8.2 Minimize the Use of Static Methods Common Error 8.1 Trying to Access Instance Variables in Static Methods Special Topic 8.2 Alternative Forms of Instance and Static Variable Initialization Special Topic 8.3 Static Imports 8.5 Problem Solving: Solve a Simpler Problem First InterActivities
- 16. 8.6 Packages 8.6.1 OrganizingRelated Classes into Pack-ages 8.6.2 Importing Packages 8.6.3 Package Names Syntax 8.1 Package Specification 8.6.4 Packages and Source Files InterActivities Common Error 8.2 Confusing Dots Special Topic 8.4 Package Access How To 8.1 Programming with Packages 8.7 Unit Test Frameworks (Testing Track) InterActivities More InterActivities Computing & Society 8.1 Personal Computing Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 9. Inheritance 9.1 Inheritance Hierarchies InterActivities Programming Tip 9.1 Use a Single Class for Variation in Values, Inheritance for Variation in Behavior 9.2 Implementing Subclasses Syntax 9.1 Subclass Declaration InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 9.1 Replicating Instance Variables from the Superclass Common Error 9.2 Confusing Super- and Subclasses 9.3 Overriding Methods Syntax 9.2 Calling a Superclass Method InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 9.3 Accidental Overloading Common Error 9.4 Forgetting to Use super When Invoking a Superclass Method Special Topic 9.1 Calling the Superclass Constructor Syntax 9.3 Constructor with Superclass Initializer 9.4 Polymorphism InterActivities More InterActivities
- 17. Special Topic 9.2 DynamicMethod Lookup and the Implicit Parameter Special Topic 9.3 Abstract Classes Special Topic 9.4 Final Methods and Classes Special Topic 9.5 Protected Access How To 9.1 Developing an Inheritance Hierarchy Worked Example 9.1 Implementing an Employee Hierarchy for Payroll Processing 9.5 Object: The Cosmic Superclass 9.5.1 Overriding the toString Method InterActivities More InterActivities 9.5.2 The equals Method InterActivities More InterActivities 9.5.3 The instanceof Operator Syntax 9.4 The instanceof Operator InterActivities Common Error 9.5 Don’t Use Type Tests Special Topic 9.6 Inheritance and the toString Method Special Topic 9.7 Inheritance and the equals Method Computing & Society 9.1 Who Controls the Internet? Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 10. Interfaces 10.1 Using Interfaces for Algorithm Reuse 10.1.1 Discovering an Interface Type 10.1.2 Declaring an Interface Type Syntax 10.1 Declaring an Interface 10.1.3 Implementing an Interface Type Syntax 10.2 Implementing an Interface 10.1.4 Comparing Interfaces and Inheritance InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 10.1 Forgetting to Declare Implementing Methods as Public Common Error 10.2 Trying to Instantiate an Interface Special Topic 10.1
- 18. Constants in Interfaces Java8 Note 10.1 Static Methods in Interfaces Java 8 Note 10.2 Default Methods Java 8 Note 10.3 Conflicting Default Methods 10.2 Working with Interface Types 10.2.1 Converting from Classes to Interfaces 10.2.2 Invoking Methods on Interface Variables 10.2.3 Casting from Interfaces to Classes InterActivities More InterActivities Worked Example 10.1 Investigating Number Sequences 10.3 The Comparable Interface InterActivities More InterActivities Programming Tip 10.1 Comparing Integers and Floating-Point Numbers Special Topic 10.2 The clone Method and the Cloneable Interface 10.4 Using Interfaces for Callbacks InterActivities Java 8 Note 10.4 Lambda Expressions Special Topic 10.3 Generic Interface Types 10.5 Inner Classes InterActivities Special Topic 10.4 Anonymous Classes 10.6 Mock Objects (Testing Track) InterActivities 10.7 Event Handling (Graphics Track) 10.7.1 Listening to Events 10.7.2 Using Inner Classes for Listeners InterActivities Common Error 10.3 Modifying Parameter Types in the Implementing Method Common Error 10.4 Trying to Call Listener Methods Java 8 Note 10.5 Lambda Expressions for Event Handling 10.8 Building Applications with Buttons (Graphics Track) InterActivities Common Error 10.5 Forgetting to Attach a Listener
- 19. Programming Tip 10.2 Don’tUse a Container as a Listener 10.9 Processing Timer Events (Graphics Track) InterActivities Common Error 10.6 Forgetting to Repaint 10.10 Mouse Events (Graphics Track) InterActivities Special Topic 10.5 Keyboard Events Special Topic 10.6 Event Adapters Computing & Society 10.1 Open Source and Free Software Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 11. Input/Output and Exception Handling 11.1 Reading and Writing Text Files InterActivities More InterActivities Common Error 11.1 Backslashes in File Names Common Error 11.2 Constructing a Scanner with a String Special Topic 11.1 Reading Web Pages Special Topic 11.2 File Dialog Boxes Special Topic 11.3 Character Encodings 11.2 Text Input and Output 11.2.1 Reading Words InterActivities 11.2.2 Reading Characters InterActivities More InterActivities 11.2.3 Classifying Characters InterActivities More InterActivities 11.2.4 Reading Lines InterActivities 11.2.5 Scanning a String InterActivities More InterActivities 11.2.6 Converting Strings to Numbers InterActivities More InterActivities
- 20. 11.2.7 Avoiding ErrorsWhen Reading Numbers InterActivities More InterActivities 11.2.8 Mixing Number, Word, and Line Input InterActivities More InterActivities 11.2.9 Formatting Output InterActivities Special Topic 11.4 Regular Expressions Special Topic 11.5 Reading an Entire File 11.3 Command Line Arguments InterActivities More InterActivities How To 11.1 Processing Text Files Worked Example 11.1 Analyzing Baby Names Computing & Society 11.1 Encryption Algorithms 11.4 Exception Handling 11.4.1 Throwing Exceptions Syntax 11.1 Throwing an Exception InterActivities More InterActivities 11.4.2 Catching Exceptions Syntax 11.2 Catching Exceptions InterActivities More InterActivities 11.4.3 Checked Exceptions Syntax 11.3 The throws Clause InterActivities 11.4.4 Closing Resources Syntax 11.4 The try-with-resources Statement InterActivities 11.4.5 Designing Your Own Exception Types Programming Tip 11.1 Throw Early, Catch Late Programming Tip 11.2 Do Not Squelch Exceptions Programming Tip 11.3 Do Throw Specific Exceptions Special Topic 11.6 Assertions Special Topic 11.7 The try/finally Statement 11.5 Application: Handling Input Errors Computing & Society 11.2 The Ariane Rocket Incident
- 21. Chapter Summary Review Exercises PracticeExercises Programming Projects 12. Object-Oriented Design 12.1 Classes and Their Responsibilities 12.1.1 Discovering Classes 12.1.2 The CRC Card Method InterActivities 12.2 Relationships Between Classes 12.2.1 Dependency 12.2.2 Aggregation 12.2.3 Inheritance InterActivities How To 12.1 Using CRC Cards and UML Diagrams in Program Design Special Topic 12.1 Attributes and Methods in UML Diagrams Special Topic 12.2 Multiplicities Special Topic 12.3 Aggregation, Association, and Composition 12.3 Application: Printing an Invoice 12.3.1 Requirements 12.3.2 CRC Cards 12.3.3 UML Diagrams 12.3.4 Method Documentation 12.3.5 Implementation InterActivities Computing & Society 12.1 Databases and Privacy Worked Example 12.1 Simulating an Automatic Teller Machine Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 13. Recursion 13.1 Triangle Numbers InterActivities Common Error 13.1 Infinite Recursion Common Error 13.2 Tracing Through Recursive Methods How To 13.1 Thinking Recursively Worked Example 13.1 Finding Files 13.2 Recursive Helper Methods
- 22. InterActivities 13.3 The Efficiencyof Recursion InterActivities 13.4 Permutations InterActivities Computing & Society 13.1 The Limits of Computation 13.5 Mutual Recursion InterActivities 13.6 Backtracking InterActivities Worked Example 13.2 Towers of Hanoi Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 14. Sorting and Searching 14.1 Selection Sort InterActivities 14.2 Profiling the Selection Sort Algorithm InterActivities 14.3 Analyzing the Performance of the Selection Sort Algorithm InterActivities Special Topic 14.1 Oh, Omega, and Theta Special Topic 14.2 Insertion Sort 14.4 Merge Sort InterActivities 14.5 Analyzing the Merge Sort Algorithm InterActivities Special Topic 14.3 The Quicksort Algorithm 14.6 Searching 14.6.1 Linear Search 14.6.2 Binary Search InterActivities Computing & Society 14.1 The First Programmer 14.7 Problem Solving: Estimating the Running Time of an Algorithm 14.7.1 Linear Time 14.7.2 Quadratic Time 14.7.3 The Triangle Pattern 14.7.4 Logarithmic Time InterActivities 14.8 Sorting and Searching in the Java Library 14.8.1 Sorting 14.8.2 Binary Search 14.8.3 Comparing Objects
- 23. InterActivities Common Error 14.1 ThecompareTo Method Can Return Any Integer, Not Just –1, 0, and 1 Special Topic 14.4 The Comparator Interface Java 8 Note 14.1 Comparators with Lambda Expressions Worked Example 14.1 Enhancing the Insertion Sort Algorithm Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 15. The Java Collections Framework 15.1 An Overview of the Collections Framework InterActivities 15.2 Linked Lists 15.2.1 The Structure of Linked Lists 15.2.2 The LinkedList Class of the Java Collections Framework 15.2.3 List Iterators InterActivities Computing & Society 15.1 Standardization 15.3 Sets 15.3.1 Choosing a Set Implementation 15.3.2 Working with Sets InterActivities Programming Tip 15.1 Use Interface References to Manipulate Data Structures 15.4 Maps InterActivities Java 8 Note 15.1 Updating Map Entries How To 15.1 Choosing a Collection Worked Example 15.1 Word Frequency Special Topic 15.1 Hash Functions 15.5 Stacks, Queues, and Priority Queues 15.5.1 Stacks 15.5.2 Queues 15.5.3 Priority Queues InterActivities 15.6 Stack and Queue Applications 15.6.1 Balancing Parentheses 15.6.2 Evaluating Reverse Polish Expressions 15.6.3 Evaluating Algebraic Expressions 15.6.4 Backtracking
- 24. InterActivities Worked Example 15.2 Simulatinga Queue of Waiting Customers Special Topic 15.2 Reverse Polish Notation Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 16. Basic Data Structures 16.1 Implementing Linked Lists 16.1.1 The Node Class 16.1.2 Adding and Removing the First Element 16.1.3 The Iterator Class 16.1.4 Advancing an Iterator 16.1.5 Removing an Element 16.1.6 Adding an Element 16.1.7 Setting an Element to a Different Value 16.1.8 Efficiency of Linked List Operations InterActivities Special Topic 16.1 Static Classes Worked Example 16.1 Implementing a Doubly-Linked List 16.2 Implementing Array Lists 16.2.1 Getting and Setting Elements 16.2.2 Removing or Adding Elements 16.2.3 Growing the Internal Array InterActivities 16.3 Implementing Stacks and Queues 16.3.2 Stacks as Arrays 16.3.3 Queues as Linked Lists 16.3.4 Queues as Circular Arrays InterActivities 16.4 Implementing a Hash Table 16.4.1 Hash Codes 16.4.2 Hash Tables 16.4.3 Finding an Element 16.4.4 Adding and Removing Elements 16.4.5 Iterating over a Hash Table InterActivities Special Topic 16.2 Open Addressing Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 17. Tree Structures
- 25. 17.1 Basic TreeConcepts InterActivities 17.2 Binary Trees 17.2.1 Binary Tree Examples 17.2.2 Balanced Trees 17.2.3 A Binary Tree Implementation InterActivities Worked Example 17.1 Building a Huffman Tree 17.3 Binary Search Trees 17.3.1 The Binary Search Property 17.3.2 Insertion 17.3.3 Removal 17.3.4 Efficiency of the Operations InterActivities 17.4 Tree Traversal 17.4.1 Inorder Traversal 17.4.2 Preorder and Postorder Traversals 17.4.3 The Visitor Pattern 17.4.4 Depth-First and Breadth-First Search 17.4.5 Tree Iterators InterActivities 17.5 Red-Black Trees 17.5.1 Basic Properties of Red-Black Trees 17.5.2 Insertion 17.5.3 Removal Worked Example 17.2 Implementing a Red-Black Tree 17.6 Heaps 17.7 The Heapsort Algorithm Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 18. Generic Classes 18.1 Generic Classes and Type Parameters InterActivities 18.2 Implementing Generic Types Syntax 18.1 Declaring a Generic Class InterActivities 18.3 Generic Methods Syntax 18.2 Declaring a Generic Method InterActivities 18.4 Constraining Type Parameters InterActivities Common Error 18.1 Genericity and Inheritance Common Error 18.2
- 26. The Array StoreException Special Topic 18.1 Wildcard Types 18.5 Type Erasure InterActivities Common Error 18.3 Using Generic Types in a Static Context Special Topic 18.2 Reflection Worked Example 18.1 Making a Generic Binary Search Tree Class Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 19. Stream Processing 19.1 The Stream Concept InterActivities 19.2 Producing Streams InterActivities 19.3 Collecting Results InterActivities Programming Tip 19.1 One Stream Operation Per Line Special Topic 19.1 Infinite Streams 19.4 Transforming Streams InterActivities Common Error 19.1 Don’t Use a Terminated Stream 19.5 Lambda Expressions Syntax 19.1 Lambda Expressions InterActivities Programming Tip 19.2 Keep Lambda Expressions Short Special Topic 19.2 Method and Constructor References Special Topic 19.3 Higher-Order Functions Special Topic 19.4 Higher-Order Functions and Comparators 19.6 The Optional Type InterActivities Common Error 19.2 Optional Results Without Values 19.7 Other Terminal Operations InterActivities Common Error 19.3
- 27. Don’t Apply Mutationsin Parallel Stream Operations 19.8 Primitive-Type Streams 19.8.1 Creating Primitive-Type Streams 19.8.2 Mapping a Primitive-Type Stream 19.8.3 Processing Primitive-Type Streams InterActivities 19.9 Grouping Results InterActivities 19.10 Common Algorithms Revisited 19.10.1 Filling 19.10.2 Sum, Average, Maximum, and Minimum 19.10.3 Counting Matches 19.10.4 Element Separators 19.10.5 Linear Search 19.10.6 Comparing Adjacent Values InterActivities How To 19.1 Working with Streams Worked Example 19.1 Word Properties Worked Example 19.2 A Movie Database Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 20. Graphical User Interfaces 20.1 Layout Management 20.1.1 Using Layout Managers 20.1.2 Achieving Complex Layouts 20.1.3 Using Inheritance to Customize Frames Common Error 20.1 By Default, Components Have Zero Width and Height Special Topic 20.1 Adding the main Method to the Frame Class 20.2 Processing Text Input 20.2.1 Text Fields 20.2.2 Text Areas 20.3 Choices 20.3.1 Radio Buttons 20.3.2 Check Boxes 20.3.3 Combo Boxes How To 20.1 Laying Out a User Interface Worked Example 20.1 Programming a Working Calculator Programming Tip 20.1 Use a GUI Builder
- 28. 20.4 Menus 20.5 Exploringthe Swing Documentation Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 21. Advanced Input/Output 21.1 Readers, Writers, and Input/Output Streams 21.2 Binary Input and Output Common Error 21.1 Negative byte Values 21.3 Random Access 21.4 Object Input and Output Streams How To 21.1 Choosing a File Format 21.5 File and Directory Operations 21.5.1 Paths 21.5.2 Creating and Deleting Files and Directories 21.5.3 Useful File Operations 21.5.4 Visiting Directories Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 22. Multithreading 22.1 Running Threads Programming Tip 22.1 Use the Runnable Interface Special Topic 22.1 Thread Pools 22.2 Terminating Threads Programming Tip 22.2 Check for Thread Interruptions in the run Method of a Thread 22.3 Race Conditions 22.4 Synchronizing Object Access 22.5 Avoiding Deadlocks Common Error 22.1 Calling await Without Calling signalAll Common Error 22.2 Calling signalAll Without Locking the Object Special Topic 22.2 Object Locks and Synchronized Methods Special Topic 22.3 The Java Memory Model 22.6 Application: Algorithm Animation Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises
- 29. Programming Projects 23. InternetNetworking 23.1 The Internet Protocol 23.2 Application Level Protocols 23.3 A Client Program 23.4 A Server Program How To 23.1 Designing Client/Server Programs 23.5 URL Connections Programming Tip 23.1 Use High-Level Libraries Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 24. Relational Databases 24.1 Organizing Database Information 24.1.1 Database Tables 24.1.2 Linking Tables 24.1.3 Implementing Multi-Valued Relation-ships Programming Tip 24.1 Stick with the Standard Programming Tip 24.2 Avoid Unnecessary Data Replication Programming Tip 24.3 Don’t Replicate Columns in a Table Special Topic 24.1 Primary Keys and Indexes 24.2 Queries 24.2.1 Simple Queries 24.2.2 Selecting Columns 24.2.3 Selecting Subsets 24.2.4 Calculations 24.2.5 Joins 24.2.6 Updating and Deleting Data Common Error 24.1 Joining Tables Without Specifying a Link Condition 24.3 Installing a Database 24.4 Database Programming in Java 24.4.1 Connecting to the Database 24.4.2 Executing SQL Statements 24.4.3 Analyzing Query Results 24.4.4 Result Set Metadata Common Error 24.2 Constructing Queries from Arbitrary Strings Programming Tip 24.4 Don’t Hardwire Database Connection Parameters into Your Program Programming Tip 24.5
- 30. Let the DatabaseDo the Work 24.5 Application: Entering an Invoice Special Topic 24.2 Transactions Special Topic 24.3 Object-Relational Mapping Worked Example 24.1 Programming a Bank Database Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 25. XML 25.1 XML Tags and Documents 25.1.1 Advantages of XML 25.1.2 Differences Between XML and HTML 25.1.3 The Structure of an XML Document How To 25.1 Designing an XML Document Format Programming Tip 25.1 Prefer XML Elements over Attributes Programming Tip 25.2 Avoid Children with Mixed Elements and Text 25.2 Parsing XML Documents Common Error 25.1 XML Elements Describe Objects, Not Classes 25.3 Creating XML Documents How To 25.2 Writing an XML Document Special Topic 25.1 Grammars, Parsers, and Compilers 25.4 Validating XML Documents 25.4.1 Document Type Definitions 25.4.2 Specifying a DTD in an XML Document 25.4.3 Parsing and Validation How To 25.3 Writing a DTD Special Topic 25.2 Schema Languages Special Topic 25.3 Other XML Technologies Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects 26. Web Applications 26.1 The Architecture of a Web Application 26.2 The Architecture of a JSF Application
- 31. 26.2.1 JSF Pages 26.2.2Managed Beans 26.2.3 Separation of Presentation and Business Logic 26.2.4 Deploying a JSF Application Special Topic 26.1 Session State and Cookies 26.3 JavaBeans Components 26.4 Navigation Between Pages How To 26.1 Designing a Managed Bean 26.5 JSF Components 26.6 A Three-Tier Application Special Topic 26.2 AJAX Chapter Summary Review Exercises Practice Exercises Programming Projects APPENDIX A: THE BASIC LATIN AND LATIN-1 SUBSETS OF UNICODE APPENDIX B: JAVA OPERATOR SUMMARY APPENDIX C: JAVA RESERVED WORD SUMMARY APPENDIX D: THE JAVA LIBRARY Package java.awt Package java.awt.event Package java.awt.geom Package java.io Package java.lang Package java.math Package java.net Package java.nio.file Package java.sql Package java.text Package java.util Package java.util.concurrent.locks Package java.util.function Package java.util.logging Package java.util.stream Package javax.sql Package javax.swing Package javax.swing.border Package javax.swing.event Package javax.swing.text Package javax.xml.parsers Package javax.xml.xpath Package org.w3c.dom Package org.w3c.dom.ls APPENDIX E: JAVA LANGUAGE CODING GUIDELINES Introduction
- 32. Source Files Classes Methods Variables andConstants Control Flow Lexical Issues APPENDIX F: TOOL SUMMARY The Java Compiler The Java Virtual Machine Launcher The JAR Tool APPENDIX G: NUMBER SYSTEMS Binary Numbers Overflow and Roundoff Errors Two’s Complement Integers IEEE Floating-Point Numbers Hexadecimal Numbers Bit and Shift Operations APPENDIX H: UML SUMMARY CRC Cards UML Diagrams APPENDIX I: JAVA SYNTAX SUMMARY Types Variables Expressions Classes Interfaces Enumeration Types Methods Constructors Statements Exceptions Packages Generic Types and Methods Comments APPENDIX J: HTML SUMMARY A Brief Introduction to HTML Illustration Credits Wiley End User License Agreement
- 33. Other documents randomlyhave different content
- 34. Lady of Rankof the Thirteenth Century. How far this newly-introduced form of the corset became a "disguisement" will be best judged of by a glance at the foregoing illustration, which represents a lady in the dress worn just at the close of the thirteenth century. The term surcoat was given to this new introduction. This in many instances was worn over the dress somewhat after the manner of the body of a riding-habit, being attached to the skirt, which spreads into a long trailing train. An old author, speaking of these articles of dress, thus writes:—
- 35. "There came tome two women wearing surcoats, longer than they were tall by about a yard, so that they were obliged to carry their trains upon their arms to prevent their trailing upon the ground, and they had sleeves to these surcoats reaching to the elbows." The trains of these dresses at length reached such formidable dimensions that Charles V. of France became so enraged as to cause an edict to be issued hurling threats of excommunication at the heads of all those who dared to wear a dress which terminated "like the tail of a serpent." Notwithstanding this tremendously alarming threat, a tailor was found fully equal to the occasion, who, in spite of the terrors inspired by candle, bell, and book, set to work (lion-hearted man that he was) and made a magnificent surcoat for Madame du Gatinais, which not only trailed far behind on the ground, but actually "took five yards of Brussels net for sleeves, which also trailed." History, or even tradition, fails to inform us what dreadful fate overtook this desperate tailor after the performance of a feat so recklessly daring; but we can scarcely fancy that his end could have been of the kind common to tailors of less audacious depravity. The bodies of these surcoats were very much stiffened, and so made as to admit of being laced with extreme tightness. They were often very richly ornamented with furs and costly needlework. As fashion changed, dresses were made with open fronts, so as to be worn over the surcoat without altogether concealing it. A portrait of Marie d'Anjou, Queen of France, shows this arrangement of costume. The waist appears very tightly laced, and the body of the surcoat much resembles the modern bodice, but is made by stiffening and cut to perform the part of a very strong and efficient corset. Until the termination of the fourteenth century very little change appears to have been made either in costume or the treatment of the figure, but at the commencement of the fifteenth century, when such noble families as the Medici, Este, and Visconti established fashions and styles of costume for themselves, each house vied with the other in the splendour of their apparel. The great masters of the period, by
- 36. painting ideal compositions,also gave a marked tone to the increasing taste for dress. The costume of an Italian duchess, whose portrait is to be seen in the Academy at Pisa, has been thus described:—"The headdress is a gold coronet, the chemisette is finely interwoven with gold, the under-dress is black, the square bodice being bordered with white beads, the over-dress is gold brocade, the sides are open, and fastened together again with gold agrafes; the loose sleeves, like the chemisette, are of golden tissue, fastened to the shoulders with agrafes. The under-sleeves, which are of peculiar construction, and are visible, are crimson velvet, and reach to the centre of the hand. They are cut out at the wrists, and white puffings of the same material as the chemisette protrude through the openings." In both France and Germany a great many strange freaks of fashion appear to have been practised about this time. The tight, harlequin-like dress was adopted by the gentlemen, whilst the long trains again stirred the ire of royalty. We find Albert of Saxony issuing the following laws:—"No wives or daughters of knights are to wear dresses exceeding one yard and a-half in length, no spangles in their caps, nor high frills round their throats." During the reign of the Dauphin in France many changes in dress were effected. The length of the sleeves was much curtailed, and the preposterously long toes of the shoes reduced to a convenient standard. The ladies appear to have for some time resisted the innovation, but one Poulaine, an ingenious Parisian shoemaker, happening to devise a very attractive shoe with a heel fitted to it, the ladies hailed joyfully the new favourite, and the old snake-toed shoe passed away. Still, it was no uncommon thing to see some fop of the period with one shoe white and the other black, or one boot and one shoe.
- 37. Lady of theCourt of Queen Catherine de Medici.
- 38. Full Court Dressas worn in France, 1515.
- 41. F CHAPTER IV. The bonnetà canon and sugarloaf headdress—Headdress of the women of Normandy at the present day—Odd dress of King Louis XI. —Return of Charles VIII. from Naples—A golden time for tailors and milliners—General change of fashion—Costumes of the time of Francis I. of France and Maximilian of Germany—General use of pins in France and England—Masks worn in France—Establishment of the empire of Fashion in France—The puffed or bouffant sleeves of the reign of Henry II.—The Bernaise dress—Costume of the unfortunate Marie Stuart—Rich dresses and long slender waists of the period— The tight-lacing of Henry III. of France—The Emperor Joseph of Austria, his edict forbidding the use of stays, and how the ladies regarded it—Queen Catherine de Medici and Queen Elizabeth of England—The severe form of Corsets worn in both France and England—The corps—Steel Corset covers of the period—Royal standard of fashionable slenderness—The lawn ruffs of Queen Bess— The art of starching—Voluminous nether-garments worn by the gentlemen of the period—Fashions of the ladies of Venice—Philip Stubs on the ruff—Queen Elizabeth's collection of false hair—Stubs furious at the fashions of ladies—King James and his fondness for dress and fashion—Restrictions and sumptuary laws regarding dress —Side-arms of the period. rom about 1380 to some time afterwards headdresses of most singular form of construction were in general wear in fashionable circles. One of these, the bonnet à canon, was introduced by Isabel of Bavaria. The "sugar-loaf" headdress was also in high esteem, and considered especially becoming and attractive. The accompanying illustration faithfully represents both of these. The latter in a modified form is still worn by the women of Normandy. Throughout the reign of Louis XI. dress continued to be most sumptuous in its character. Velvet was profusely worn, with costly precious stones encircling the trimmings. Sumptuary laws were issued right and left, with a view to the correction
- 42. of so muchextravagance, whilst the king himself wore a battered, shabby old felt cap, with a bordering of leaden figures of the Virgin Mary round it. The rest of his attire was plain and simple to a degree. Ladies of Fashion in the Costume of 1380.
- 43. Norman Headdress ofthe Present Day. Next we see his successor, Charles VIII., returning as a conqueror from Naples, dressed in the first style of Italian fashion. Then came a period of intense activity on the part of milliners and tailors, and a short time sufficed to completely metamorphose the reigning belles of the nation. Smaller, much more becoming and coquettish headdresses were introduced, and a general change of style brought about. Germany participated in the same sudden change of fashion, which lasted until the reign of Francis I. Accompanying illustrations represent a lady of the court of Maximilian I. of Germany, and a lady of the court of Francis I. of France. During his reign pins came into general use both in France and England, although their use had been known to the most ancient races,
- 44. numerous specimens havingbeen discovered in the excavations of Thebes and other Old World cities. Ladies' masks or visors were also introduced in France at this period, but they did not become general in England until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. It was about this time that France commenced the establishment of her own fashions and invented for herself, and that the ladies of that nation became celebrated for the taste and elegance of their raiment. On Henry II. succeeding Charles this taste was steadily on the increase. The bouffant, or puffed form of sleeve, was introduced, and a very pretty and becoming style of headdress known as the Bernaise. The illustration shows a lady wearing this, the feather being a mark of distinction. The dress is made of rich brocade, and the waist exceedingly long (period, 1547.) The right-hand figure represents the unfortunate Marie Stuart arrayed in a court dress of the period, 1559. On the head is a gold coronet; her under-dress is gold brocade, with gold arabesque work over it; the over-dress is velvet, trimmed with ermine; the girdle consisted of costly strings of pearls; the sleeves are of gold-coloured silk, and the puffings are separated from each other by an arrangement of precious stones; the front of the dress is also profusely ornamented in the same manner; the frill or ruff was made from costly lace from Venice or Genoa, and was invented by this very charming but unfortunate lady; the form of the waist is, as will be seen on reference to this illustration, long, and shows by its contour the full influence of the tightly-laced corset beneath the dress, which fits the figure with extraordinary accuracy. At this time Fashion held such despotic sway throughout the continent of Europe, that the Emperor Joseph of Austria, following out his extraordinary penchant for the passing of edicts, and becoming alarmed at the formidable lures laid out for the capture of mankind by the fair sex, passed a law rigorously forbidding the use of the corset in all nunneries and places where young females were educated; and no less a threat than that of excommunication, and the loss of all the indulgences the Church was capable of affording, hung over the heads of all those evil- disposed damsels who persisted in a treasonable manner in the practice of confining their waists with such evil instruments as stays. Royal command, like an electric shock, startled the College of Physicians into activity and zeal, and learned dissertations on the crying sin of tight lacing were scattered broadcast amongst the ranks of the benighted and
- 45. tight-laced ladies ofthe time, much as the advertisements of cheap furnishing ironmongers are hurled into the West-End omnibuses of our own day. It is proverbial that gratuitous advice is rarely followed by the recipient. Open defiance was in a very short time bid to the edicts of the emperor and the erudite dissertations of the doctors. The corsets were, if possible, laced tighter than ever, and without anything very particular happening to the world at large in consequence. Lady of the Court of Charles VIII., 1560.
- 46. Lady of theCourt of Maximilian of Germany and Francis of France.
- 47. Corset-Cover of SteelWorn in the Time of Catherine de Medici.
- 48. Corset-Cover of Steelworn in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth (Open).
- 49. The Bernaise Headdress,and Costume of Marie Stuart. On Queen Catherine de Medici, who, it will be seen, was a contemporary of Queen Elizabeth of England, assuming the position of power which she so long maintained at the court of France, costume and fashion became her study, and at no period of the world's history were its laws more tremendously exacting, and the ladies of her court, as well as those in distinguished circles, were compelled to obey them. With her a thick waist was an abomination, and extraordinary tenuity was insisted on, thirteen inches waist measure being the standard of fashionable elegance, and in order that this extreme slenderness might be arrived at she herself invented or introduced an extremely severe and powerful form of the corset, known as the corps. It is thus described by a talented
- 50. French writer:—"This formidablecorset was hardened and stiffened in every imaginable way; it descended in a long hard point, and rose stiff and tight to the throat, making the wearers look as if they were imprisoned in a closely-fitting fortress." And in this rigid contrivance the form of the fair wearer was incased, when a system of gradual and determined constriction was followed out until the waist arrived at the required degree of slenderness, as shown in the annexed illustration. Several writers have mentioned the "steel corsets" of this period, and assumed that they were used for the purpose of forcibly reducing the size of the waist. In this opinion they were incorrect, as the steel framework in question was simply used to wear over the corset after the waist had been reduced by lacing to the required standard, in order that the dress over it might fit with inflexible and unerring exactness, and that not even a fold might be seen in the faultless stomacher then worn. These corsets (or, more correctly, corset-covers) were constructed of very thin steel plate, which was cut out and wrought into a species of open-work pattern, with a view to giving lightness to them. Numbers of holes were drilled through the flat surfaces between the hollows of the pattern, through which the needle and thread were passed in covering them accurately with velvet, silk, or other rich materials. During the reign of Queen Catherine de Medici, to whom is attributed the invention of these contrivances, they became great favourites, and were much worn, not only at her court, but throughout the greater part of the continent. They were made in two pieces, opened longitudinally by hinges, and were secured when closed by a sort of hasp and pin, much like an ordinary box fastening. At both the front and back of the corsage a long rod or bar of steel projected in a curved direction downwards, and on these bars mainly depended the adjustment of the long peaked body of the dress, and the set of the skirt behind. The illustration at page 71 gives a view of one of those ancient dress-improvers.
- 51. Corset-Cover of Steelworn in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth (Closed).
- 52. Henry III. ofFrance and the Princess Margaret of Lorraine.
- 53. Lady of theCourt of Queen Elizabeth. The votaries of fashion of Queen Elizabeth's court were not slow in imitating in a rough manner the new continental invention, and the illustrations at pages 72 and 76, taken from photographs, will show that, although not precisely alike, the steel corset-covers of England were much in principle like those of France, and the accompanying illustration represents a court lady in one of them. We have no evidence, however, that their use ever became very general in this country, and we find a most powerful and unyielding form of the corset constructed of very stout materials and closely ribbed with whalebone superseding them. This was the corps before mentioned, and its use was by no means confined to the ladies of the time, for we find the gentlemen laced in garments of this
- 54. kind to noordinary degree of tightness. That this custom prevailed for some very considerable time will be shown by the accompanying illustration, which represents Queen Catherine's son, Henry III. (who was much addicted to the practice of tight lacing), and the Princess Margaret of Lorraine, who was just the style of figure to please his taste, which was ladylike in the extreme. Eardrops in his ears, delicate kid gloves on his hands; hair dyed to the fashionable tint, brushed back under a coquettish little velvet cap, in which waved a white ostrich's feather; hips bolstered and padded out, waist laced in the very tightest and most unyielding of corsets, and feet incased in embroidered satin shoes, Henry was a true son of his fashionable mother, only lacking her strong will and powerful understanding. England under Elizabeth's reign followed close on the heels of France in the prevailing style of dress. From about the middle of her reign the upper classes of both sexes carried out the custom of tight lacing to an extreme which knew scarcely any bounds. The corsets were so thickly quilted with whalebone, so long and rigid when laced to the figure, that the long pointed stomachers then worn fitted faultlessly well, without a wrinkle, just as did the dresses of the French court over the steel framework before described. The following lines by an old author will give some idea of their unbending character:— "These privie coats, by art made strong, With bones, with paste, with such-like ware, Whereby their back and sides grow long, And now they harnest gallants are; Were they for use against the foe Our dames for Amazons might go." On examining the accompanying illustration representing a lady of the court of Queen Elizabeth, it will be observed that the farthingale, or verdingale, as it is sometimes written, and from which the modern crinoline petticoat is borrowed, serves to give the hips extraordinary width, which, coupled with the frill round the bottom of the stomacher, gave the waist the appearance of remarkable slenderness as well as length. The great size of the frills or ruffs also lent their aid in producing the same effect.
- 55. It was inthe reign of Elizabeth that the wearing of lawn and cambric commenced in this country; previously even royal personages had been contented with fine holland as a material for their ruffs. When Queen Bess had her first lawn ruffs there was no one in England who could starch them, and she procured some Dutch women to perform the operation. It is said that her first starcher was the wife of her coachman, Guillan. Some years later one Mistress Dinghen Vauden Plasse, the wife of a Flemish knight, established herself in London as a professed starcher. She also gave lessons in the art, and many ladies sent their daughters and kinswomen to learn of her. Her terms were five pounds for the starching and twenty shillings additional for learning to "seeth" the starch. Saffron was used with it to impart to it a yellow colour which was much admired. The gentlemen of the period indulged in nether garments so puffed out and voluminous that the legislature was compelled to take the matter in hand. We read of "a man who, having been brought before the judges for infringing the law made against these extensive articles of clothing, pleaded the convenience of his pockets as an excuse for his misdemeanour. They appeared, indeed, to have answered to him the purposes both of wardrobe and linen cupboard, for from their ample recesses he drew forth the following articles—viz., a pair of sheets, two tablecloths, ten napkins, four shirts, a brush, a glass, a comb, besides nightcaps and other useful things; his defence being—'Your worship may understand that because I have no safer storehouse these pockets do serve me for a roome to lay up my goodes in; and though it be a strait prison, yet it is big enough for them.'" His discharge was granted, and his clever defence well laughed at.
- 56. A Venetian Ladyof Fashion, 1560.
- 57. Queen Elizabeth. The Venetianladies appear to have been fully aware of the reducing effect of frills and ruffs on the apparent size of waist of the wearer, and they were, as the annexed illustration will show, worn of extraordinary dimensions; but the front of the figure was, of course, only displayed, and on this all the decoration and ornamentation that extravagant taste could lavish was bestowed. The Elizabethan ruff, large as it was, bore no comparison with this, and was worn as shown in the accompanying portrait of the "Virgin Queen," who indulged in numerous artifices for heightening her personal attractions. The ruffs and frills of the period so excited the ire of Philip Stubs, a citizen of London, that in his work, dated
- 58. 1585, he thuslaunches out against them in the quaint language of the time:— "The women there vse great ruffes and neckerchers of holland, laune, cameruke, and such clothe as the greatest threed shall not be so big as the least haire that is, and lest they should fall downe they are smeared and starched in the devil's liquor, I mean starche; after that dried with great diligence, streaked, patted, and rubbed very nicely, and so applied to their goodly necks, and withal vnderpropped with supportasses (as I told you before), the stately arches of pride; beyond all this they have a further fetche, nothing inferiour to the rest, as namely—three or four degrees of minor ruffes placed gradation, one beneath another, and al under the mayster deuilruffe. The skirtes, then, of these great ruffes are long and wide, every way pleated and crested full curiously, God wot! Then, last of all, they are either clogged with gold, silver, or silk lace of stately price, wrought all over with needleworke, speckeled and sparkeled here and there with the sunne, the mone, the starres, and many other antiques strange to beholde. Some are wrought with open worke downe to the midst of the ruffe, and further, some with close worke, some wyth purled lace so cloied, and other gewgaws so pestered, as the ruffe is the least parte of itselfe. Sometimes they are pinned upp to their eares, sometimes they are suffered to hange over theyr shoulders, like windemill sailes fluttering in the winde; and thus every one pleaseth her selfe in her foolish devises." In the matter of false hair her majesty Queen Elizabeth was a perfect connoisseur, having, so it is said, eighty changes of various kinds always on hand. The fashionable ladies, too, turned their attention to artificial adornment of that kind with no ordinary energy, and poor old Stubs appears almost beside himself with indignation on the subject, and thus writes about it:—"The hair must of force be curled, frisled, and crisped, laid out in wreaths and borders from one ear to another. And, lest it should fall down, it is underpropped with forks, wires, and I cannot tell what, rather like grim, stern monsters than chaste Christian matrons. At their hair thus wreathed and crested are hanged bugles, ouches, rings, gold and silver glasses, and such like childish gewgaws." The fashion of painting the face also calls down his furious condemnation, and the dresses come in for a fair share of his vituperation, and their length is
- 59. evidently a sourceof excessive exasperation. We give his opinions in his own odd, scolding words:— "Their gownes be no less famous than the rest, for some are of silke, some velvet, some of grograine, some of taffatie, some of scarlet, and some of fine cloth of x., xx., or xl. shillings a yarde. But if the whole gowne be not silke or velvet, then the same shall be layd with lace two or three fingers broade all over the gowne, or els the most parte, or if not so (as lace is not fine enough sometimes), then it must bee garded with great gardes of velvet, every yard fower or sixe fingers broad at the least, and edged with costly lace, and as these gownes be of divers and sundry colours, so are they of divers fashions—chaunging with the moone—for some be of new fashion, some of the olde, some of thys fashion, and some of that; some with sleeves hanging downe to their skirtes, trailing on the ground, and cast over their shoulders like cows' tailes; some have sleeves muche shorter, cut vp the arme and poincted with silke ribbons, very gallantly tied with true love's knottes (for so they call them); some have capes reachyng downe to the midest of their backes, faced with velvet, or els with some wrought silke taffatie at the least, and fringed about very bravely (and to shut vp all in a worde), some are peerled and rinsled downe the backe wonderfully, with more knackes than I can declare. Then have they petticoates of the beste clothe that can be bought, and of the fayrest dye that can be made. And sometimes they are not of clothe neither, for that is thought too base, but of scarlet grograine, taffatie, silke, and such like, fringed about the skirtes with silke fringe of chaungeable colour, but whiche is more vayne, of whatsoever their petticoates be yet must they have kirtles (for so they call them), either of silke, velvett, grogaraine, taffatie, satten, or scarlet, bordered with gardes, lace, fringe, and I cannot tell what besides." History fails to enlighten us as to whether the irascible Stubs was blessed with a stylish wife and a large family of fashionable daughters, but we rather incline to the belief that he must have been a confirmed old bachelor, as we cannot find that he was ever placed in a lunatic asylum, a fate which would inevitably have befallen him if the fashions of the time had been brought within the sphere of his own dwelling. It is somewhat singular that, writing, as he did, in the most violent manner against almost every article of personal adornment, and every artifice of
- 60. fashionable life, thethen universal and extreme use of the corset should have escaped censure at his hands. King James, who succeeded Elizabeth, manifested an inordinate fondness for dress. We read that—"Not only his courtiers, but all the youthful portion of his subjects, were infected in a like manner, and the attire of a fashionable gentleman in those days could scarcely have been exceeded in fantastic device and profuse decoration. The hair was long and flowing, falling upon the shoulders; the hat, made of silk, velvet, or beaver (the latter being most esteemed), was high-crowned, narrow-brimmed, and steeple-shaped. It was occasionally covered with gold and silver embroidery, a lofty plume of feathers, and a hatband sparkling with gems being frequently worn with it. It was customary to dye the beard of various colours, according to the fancy of the wearer, and its shape also differed with his profession. The most effeminate fashion at this time was that of wearing jewelled rings in the ears, which was common among the upper and middle ranks. Gems were also suspended to ribbons round the neck, while the long 'lovelock' of hair so carefully cherished under the left ear was adorned with roses of ribbons, and even real flowers. The ruff had already been reduced by order of Queen Elizabeth, who enacted that when reaching beyond 'a nayle of a yeard in depth' it should be clipped. In the early part of her reign the doublet and hose had attained a preposterous size, especially the nether garments, which were stuffed and bolstered with wool and hair to such an extent that Strutt tells us, on the authority of one of the Harleian manuscripts, that a scaffold was erected round the interior of the Parliament House for the accommodation of such members as wore them! This was taken down in the eighth year of Elizabeth's reign, when this ridiculous fashion was laid aside. The doublet was afterwards reduced in size, but still so hard- quilted that the wearer could not stoop to the ground, and was incased as in a coat of mail. In shape it was like a waistcoat, with a large cape, and either close or very wide sleeves. These latter were termed Danish. A cloak of the richest materials, embroidered in gold or silver, and faced with foxskin, lambskin, or sable, was buttoned over the left shoulder. None, however, under the rank of an earl were permitted to indulge in sable facings. The hose were either of woven silk, velvet, or damask; the garters were worn externally below the knee, made of gold, silver, or velvet, and trimmed with a deep gold fringe. Red silk stockings, parti-
- 61. coloured gaiters, andeven 'cross gartering' to represent the Scotch tartan, were frequently seen. The shoes of this period were cork-soled, and elevated their wearers at least two or three inches from the ground. They were composed of velvet of various colours, worked in the precious metals, and if fastened with strings, immense roses of ribbon were attached to them, variously ornamented, and frequently of great value, as may be seen in Howe's continuation of Stowe's Chronicle, where he tells us 'men of rank wear garters and shoe-roses of more than five pounds price.' The dress of a gentleman was not considered perfect without a dagger and rapier. The former was worn at the back, and was highly ornamented. The latter having superseded, about the middle of Elizabeth's reign, the heavy two-handed sword, previously used in England, was, indeed, chiefly worn as an ornament, the hilt and scabbard being always profusely decorated."
- 63. L CHAPTER V. Strange freaksof Louise de Lorraine—One of her adventures— Her dress at a royal fête—Marie de Medici—The distended dresses of her time—Hair-powder—Costume à la enfant— Escapade of the young Louis—Low dresses of the period—The court of Louis XIV. of France—High heels, slender waists, and fancy costumes—The Siamese dress—Charles I. of England— Patches introduced—Elaborate costumes of the period— Puritanism, its effect on the fashions—Fashions in Cromwell's time, and the general prevalence of the practice of tight-lacing— The ladies of Augsburg described by Hoechstetterus. ittle change appears to have taken place in the prevailing fashions of England for some considerable time after this period. In France two opposing influences sprang up. Henry III., as we have seen, was the slave of fashion, and mainly occupied his time in devising some new and extravagant article of raiment. His wife, Louise de Lorraine, on the other hand, although exceedingly handsome, was of a gloomy, stern, and ascetic disposition, dressing more like a nun than the wife of so gay a husband. She caused numerous sumptuary laws to be framed, in order to, if possible, reduce the style of ladies' dress to a standard nearer her own; and the following anecdote will serve to show the petty spirit in which her powers were sought to be exercised.
- 64. Court Dress duringthe Boyhood of Louis XIII.
- 65. Marie de Medici. Awriter on her life says, "She was accustomed to go out on foot with but a single attendant, both habited plainly in some woollen fabric, and one day, on entering a mercer's shop in the Rue St. Denis, she encountered the wife of a president tricked out superbly in the latest fashions of the day. The subject did not recognise the sovereign, who inquired her name, and received for answer that she was called 'La Présidente de M.,' the information being given curtly, and with the additional remark, 'to satisfy your curiosity.' To this the queen replied,
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