Sustainability Drinks #9 - Interloom
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Sophia Opperskalski, Interloom: "a marketplace for sustainable fabrics" Sophia Opperskalski has background in South Asian studies and Integrated Natural Resource Management. Sophia Opperskalski has been working for textile companies, research projects and NGOs in Asia and Europe. She supports textile companies in sourcing sustainable materials and is the founder of interloom. Interloom is the first open B2B online platform that makes (co-)sourcing and selling sustainable fabrics easy. We help designers and fashion brands to discover the most sustainable, cutting-edge materials. By helping to form buying groups we facilitate to collectively order ecologically and fairly produced fabrics to reach minimum order quantities and to source at lower quantities and for better value. For suppliers we offer a great marketing platform to easily present their products to a huge online community.
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FRESH & CLEAN FABRICS PRESENTATION
Fresh & Clean Linen is a wholly owned Australian company, sourcing high quality, sustainable and economical Industrial Linen and Terry Towels for range of industries. We source our products from best factories across Asia Pacific and we have registered offices in Bangladesh and Australia. We have local product knowledge and our factories are renowned for delivering major Australian retailer like: IKEA, BIG-W, SAFEWAY and Many Other European Companies.
2014 Fashion Brands Sustainable Procurement Survey
The Sustainability-lab 2014 Fashion Brands Sustainable Procurement Survey involved 18 European and American brands accounting for over €50 billion in sales. The Survey findings fall into four areas addressed in the main four chapters of the report:
The 18 brands commitment to Company Sustainable Procurement (CSP) has a huge impact on suppliers, all but one brand has included specific sustainability compliance requirements in purchasing contracts, a large share of brands’ purchases of fabrics and accessories is subject to formal sustainability assessment and the adoption of preferred suppliers Green Lists based on sustainability criteria is widespread.
In the field of organizational models for sustainable procurement management, the one size fits all concept does not hold true. A cluster of larger brands was found to follow a formalized management style, with the CSR department acting as watchdog for CSP. These brands established a Green List of preferred suppliers and assess a high share of fabrics and accessories purchases.
Other brands historically engaged in sustainability, especially in the luxury segment have adopted a more informal approach, without a clear role for the CSR function. Finally, a third cluster is still in a phase of organizational evolution with a mix of roles for the CSR department and expectations for future adoption of formalized sustainability evaluation tools.
Elimination of hazardous chemicals, traceability and ban of cruel practices towards animals are the most considered dimensions. These findings witness a higher level of maturity, beyond what we can define phase one of sustainability management almost exclusively focused on CO2 emissions cuts. The ranking of sustainability attributes reveals a close connection with some of the influential high-profile campaigns launched in recent years by environmental, workers' rights advocacy and animal welfare NGOs. Citizens through NGOs more than consumers through their wallets appear to be the driving force pulling fashion brands into the sustainability journey.
CSR managers value certification labels, especially when they compare best suppliers. Just a few of them consider certifications mandatory though. Brands with established CSP place less value on certifications. Most valued labels are Oeko-Tex100 / 100plus, GOTS, SA8000 and Bluesign.
Finally, the Survey findings were consistent with some more general conclusions:
1. the movement towards a more sustainable fashion has already started and goes full steam. Sustainable fashion is already among us, it is not matter of future or expected developments: it is now;
2. Supply chain relationships are changing more rapidly than consumer purchasing behavior. At the current development stage of the market, the consumer as citizen through the NGOs campaign, more than the consumer through its own wallet that is driving the movement towards a more sustainable fashion.
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The chemicals industry may be one of the most active sectors when it comes to collaborating and partnering, particularly in (open) innovation models. However, sector-wide industry data from eRevalue on what chemical companies report on in terms of SDGs showed that reporting on goals 9 (industry, innovation and infrastructure) and 17 (partnerships for the goals) stays far behind.
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FRESH & CLEAN FABRICS PRESENTATION
Fresh & Clean Linen is a wholly owned Australian company, sourcing high quality, sustainable and economical Industrial Linen and Terry Towels for range of industries. We source our products from best factories across Asia Pacific and we have registered offices in Bangladesh and Australia. We have local product knowledge and our factories are renowned for delivering major Australian retailer like: IKEA, BIG-W, SAFEWAY and Many Other European Companies.
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The Sustainability-lab 2014 Fashion Brands Sustainable Procurement Survey involved 18 European and American brands accounting for over €50 billion in sales. The Survey findings fall into four areas addressed in the main four chapters of the report:
The 18 brands commitment to Company Sustainable Procurement (CSP) has a huge impact on suppliers, all but one brand has included specific sustainability compliance requirements in purchasing contracts, a large share of brands’ purchases of fabrics and accessories is subject to formal sustainability assessment and the adoption of preferred suppliers Green Lists based on sustainability criteria is widespread.
In the field of organizational models for sustainable procurement management, the one size fits all concept does not hold true. A cluster of larger brands was found to follow a formalized management style, with the CSR department acting as watchdog for CSP. These brands established a Green List of preferred suppliers and assess a high share of fabrics and accessories purchases.
Other brands historically engaged in sustainability, especially in the luxury segment have adopted a more informal approach, without a clear role for the CSR function. Finally, a third cluster is still in a phase of organizational evolution with a mix of roles for the CSR department and expectations for future adoption of formalized sustainability evaluation tools.
Elimination of hazardous chemicals, traceability and ban of cruel practices towards animals are the most considered dimensions. These findings witness a higher level of maturity, beyond what we can define phase one of sustainability management almost exclusively focused on CO2 emissions cuts. The ranking of sustainability attributes reveals a close connection with some of the influential high-profile campaigns launched in recent years by environmental, workers' rights advocacy and animal welfare NGOs. Citizens through NGOs more than consumers through their wallets appear to be the driving force pulling fashion brands into the sustainability journey.
CSR managers value certification labels, especially when they compare best suppliers. Just a few of them consider certifications mandatory though. Brands with established CSP place less value on certifications. Most valued labels are Oeko-Tex100 / 100plus, GOTS, SA8000 and Bluesign.
Finally, the Survey findings were consistent with some more general conclusions:
1. the movement towards a more sustainable fashion has already started and goes full steam. Sustainable fashion is already among us, it is not matter of future or expected developments: it is now;
2. Supply chain relationships are changing more rapidly than consumer purchasing behavior. At the current development stage of the market, the consumer as citizen through the NGOs campaign, more than the consumer through its own wallet that is driving the movement towards a more sustainable fashion.
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The Fast Fashion 'Conundrum'
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The chemicals industry may be one of the most active sectors when it comes to collaborating and partnering, particularly in (open) innovation models. However, sector-wide industry data from eRevalue on what chemical companies report on in terms of SDGs showed that reporting on goals 9 (industry, innovation and infrastructure) and 17 (partnerships for the goals) stays far behind.
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Fascinated by the aspect of textile waste reduction, in the last years together with her team she initiated many projects in Berlin: in 2010 they founded their own upcycling label aluc, which was followed by the first German blog about upcycling fashion and the first concept store dedicated to the topic, The Upcycling Fashion Store. With the institution of their monthly networking event Strich&Faden, they created a proper hub for sustainable fashion in Berlin.
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Sustainability drinks #5 - spamroom
Paola Bagna, spamroom.net
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Paola Bagna was born in Figueres (Catalunya, Spain), with Catalan, Argentinian and Italian background. Trying to decide between physics and graphic design, she finally chose to study architecture in Barcelona. After graduating in 2007, Paola worked in award winning offices in Barcelona, London and Berlin. Berlin has for the last five years been her base city, where two years ago her professional project “spamroom” started, focussing on the use of recycled materials in the design, collaborations with like-minded designers and the close work with craftsmen.
A year ago, she started a degree in Multimedia in an internationally recognized online catalan university, Universitat Oberta de Catalunya.
spamroom was born from the strong belief that architecture and design, no matter the scale of the project, has to seek and achieve certain sustainability principles such as minimizing the waste and energy during construction. I decided that if architecture is the field of work I will be involved in (my personal conflict in architecture: new building in free spaces vs. transforming the existing built space), then it would have to comply with some sustainability-ethics.
This is related/associated with the Cradle to Cradle Design principles started by William McDonough.
The first spamroom built project was Plus One Berlin (http://www.spamroom.net/plus-one-berlin/). This one room hotel was partially built (40%) with salvaged materials (wood panels, tiles, lighting,...) sourced from demolition works from construction sites, the street or second hand shops from Berlin and surrounding areas.
From the experience I gained with the design and construction of Plus One Berlin, I became aware that in order to design and build spaces with salvaged materials without delays on the site (with the right products that a client can see and choose), it is important to source them beforehand and store them until they are needed at a later date. The concept of the space first, and the construction following afterwards, can be done knowing which materials are available to re-use.
Parallel project born after Plus One building experience:
The “spam-map” web application aims to make it easier for architects to integrate re-used materials in their projects and to connect the architecture professionals looking to re-use building materials, and the building companies providing the materials through their demolition works. This is a project under development which connects my Multimedia studies and my company spamroom.
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Premium-Cola is an internet-based softdrink brand which is ruled by a consensus-oriented collective of potentially all its stakeholders, including the consumers. This idealistic approach has not only proven to sustain the company itself, it also helped to develop a unique set of management tools which address and design ecological, social and economic issues more consistently than any other company in the industry. For instance, Premium-Cola offers anti-volume-discounts, publishes mistakes actively and has no written contracts in order to stabilize the value creation chain. Furthermore, these and other tools have established a special USP which is offered for free (e. g. in an open franchise style) in order to spread the ideas, support companies in other industries to work in a similar way, and also to help forcing conventional companies. Long story short: Premium-Cola is hacking business.
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For more information contact DK Deloitte Sustainability Manager, Bahare Hagshenas, bahahag@deloitte.dk
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Paola Bagna was born in Figueres (Catalunya, Spain), with Catalan, Argentinian and Italian background. Trying to decide between physics and graphic design, she finally chose to study architecture in Barcelona. After graduating in 2007, Paola worked in award winning offices in Barcelona, London and Berlin. Berlin has for the last five years been her base city, where two years ago her professional project “spamroom” started, focussing on the use of recycled materials in the design, collaborations with like-minded designers and the close work with craftsmen.
A year ago, she started a degree in Multimedia in an internationally recognized online catalan university, Universitat Oberta de Catalunya.
spamroom was born from the strong belief that architecture and design, no matter the scale of the project, has to seek and achieve certain sustainability principles such as minimizing the waste and energy during construction. I decided that if architecture is the field of work I will be involved in (my personal conflict in architecture: new building in free spaces vs. transforming the existing built space), then it would have to comply with some sustainability-ethics.
This is related/associated with the Cradle to Cradle Design principles started by William McDonough.
The first spamroom built project was Plus One Berlin (http://www.spamroom.net/plus-one-berlin/). This one room hotel was partially built (40%) with salvaged materials (wood panels, tiles, lighting,...) sourced from demolition works from construction sites, the street or second hand shops from Berlin and surrounding areas.
From the experience I gained with the design and construction of Plus One Berlin, I became aware that in order to design and build spaces with salvaged materials without delays on the site (with the right products that a client can see and choose), it is important to source them beforehand and store them until they are needed at a later date. The concept of the space first, and the construction following afterwards, can be done knowing which materials are available to re-use.
Parallel project born after Plus One building experience:
The “spam-map” web application aims to make it easier for architects to integrate re-used materials in their projects and to connect the architecture professionals looking to re-use building materials, and the building companies providing the materials through their demolition works. This is a project under development which connects my Multimedia studies and my company spamroom.
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