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The Creative
Emporium
Meet the creators collaborating with the Sid Lee Collective store and gallery in Amsterdam.
The Creative
Emporium
Meet the creators collaborating with the Sid Lee Collective store and gallery in Amsterdam.

SID LEE COLLECTIVE - 4


ADIEU - 10


AQUAOVO - 14


PEARLS BEFORE SWINE - 18


FURNI - 22


KRANE - 24


TEAM MACHO - 26


RENATA MORALES - 34


CASTOR - 40


COMPLEXGEOMETRIES - 44


PHILIPPE MALOUIN - 48




                                         NOM DE LA SECTION
                                              - 3 -
CREATI-                 A true celebration of creativity,
                        Sid Lee Collective is the embodi-

VITY
                        ment of our Montreal roots and
                        culture. It is a living organism
                        that beats to our values.

EMPO-                   Our shop creates the perfect stage
                        for young Montrealers and

RIUM
                        Canadian design talent who may
                        not otherwise be seen beyond
                        Canadian borders. Collaborators
                        are selected primarily for the
                        stories they bring with them,
                        as you will see in this magazine.

   Sid Lee COLLECTIVE                  Sid Lee COLLECTIVE
         - 4 -                                - 5 -
Onetop                                                   Sid loves Turbo vols. 1 & 2
                               CLOTHING                                                                       MUSIC

     Sid Lee Collective created a series of posters to honour the fact      Turbo Recordings is a label dedicated to releasing only the highest quality
        that Montreal was named a UNESCO City of Design 2007.                electronic music. Based in Montreal, Canada, Turbo has quickly become
  Onetop and Sid Lee planned a collection of t-shirts featuring designs          an internationally recognized brand with their trademark mix of
inspired from these posters. A total of 40 different models were created.               uncompromising music and cutting-edge artwork.




                              Sid Lee COLLECTIVE                                                          Sid Lee COLLECTIVE
                                    - 6 -                                                                       - 7 -
Sit! by Sid                                                         Sid’s kitchen
                            FURNITURE                                                            KITCHENWARE

Sid Lee Collective and Perez hook up to create a furniture collection   An experiment in kitchenware creativity, this collection emphasizes
                    that is both naughty and nice.                            the artistic and authentic sides of our culinary culture.




                           Sid Lee COLLECTIVE                                                      Sid Lee COLLECTIVE
                                 - 8 -                                                                   - 9 -
ADIEU
          Never Can Say

          Goodbye




 ADIEU          ADIEU
- 10 -         - 11 -
Melinda Santillan-Moreno is all over the map.          Montreal at the boutique Reborn, then at the
Never in the same place twice, the young Mexi-         2007 edition of the event Souk @ SAT.
can-Canadian artist scours the planet, both                Adieu’s cotton t-shirts have quite a vintage
physically and virtually. Voyages, like so many of     look. The recipe? Top secret!” she lets out with
the encounters that shine through in Adieu, her        a laugh. “Each t-shirt is unique. The degree of
playfully and rebelliously printed collection of       vintage and the print composition are different
translucent t-shirts. Melinda pushes boundaries,       every time, eaning that no two people will ever
both terrestrial and artistic, combining genres        have the same shirt. It’s kind of what I’m after in
with a rare naivety.                                   fashion, its uniqueness.”
     It was while pursuing her studies at                  Melinda doesn’t wait for things to come
Vancouver’s Emily Carr College of Arts that            to her; she makes them happen herself. And
Melinda discovered screen printing, a process          Melinda Santillan-Moreno’s art isn’t just limited
that enabled her to play around with her creations,    to fashion, either. “The Internet allows me to
depending on her given inspiration. Her black          meet people that really influence my work. My
ink drawings (the 28-year-old artist favours           projects become international without me even
working in black and white and admits: “Colours        having to leave the country.”
intimidate me”) are therefore superimposed on              Art is really is everywhere for Melinda, but
pictures or wording to create compositions that        mostly in the most unexpected of places. She comes
are surprisingly colourful! The beauty of screen       across it around corners, in Mexico’s gold-coloured
printing? The combinations are endless—and so          signage, in old class pictures or even just by people-
are the t-shirts!                                      watching. “Clothing is made unique by those who
     Much like their globetrotter creator, Melinda’s   wear it, too!” she underlines.
first t-shirts were originally distributed in Japan!       And you, what colour will you give your
The Adieu collection grew and was presented in         Adieu?




                                                   ADIEU                                                         ADIEU
                                                  - 12 -                                                        - 13 -
AQUA-
OVO’S
WHITE
WATER

                            Noémie
                                   &

               Manuel Desrochers
                 HAVE THEIR SIGHTS SET ON WATER!

         With their company AQUAOVO, which offers an original
and environmentally friendly alternative to conventional water dispensers,
these two young Quebecois entrepreneurs are attempting to make water
              number one again in people’s everyday lives.




                                 AQUAOVO                                     AQUAOVO
                                 - 14 -                                      - 15 -
“AQUAOVO
                       Manuel spent three years conduc-       friendly as it is esthetically pleasing—
                  ting research before he finally laid the    the OVOPUR is even featured in
                  OVOPUR, a new-age water distribution        several Montreal-based art galleries.
                  and filtration system that consumes              Beyond style, AQUAOVO products



 MAKES IT THEIR
                  no electricity. With curves in all the      are all stamped with an environmen-
                  right places, the egg-shaped dispenser      tal conscience. AQUAOVO makes it
                  reproduces water’s natural cycle as         their duty to use as little plastic pos-
                  closely as possible, using gravity to       sible—OVOPUR filters are recyclable



 DUTY TO USE AS
                  filter tap water. It’s a nature-inspired,   and its parts handmade. The company
                  eco-design approach for the young           also develops a line of environmentally
                  artist, whose creative process is greatly   friendly accessories and always uses
                  influenced by Mother Nature. “Ob-           noble and durable materials such as



 LITTLE PLASTIC
                  serve, understand and imitate nature,”      porcelain, glass and metal.
                  says Manuel quoting Austrian natura-             A keen independent learner,
                  list and inventor Victor Schauberger        Manuel speaks of water with a purely
                  (1885-1958), who spoke of water as the      poetic passion: “People need more



 POSSIBLE—
                  “Earth’s blood.”                            than to just live, they need to nourish
                       Cutting-edge, the OVOPUR draws         themselves, and water happens to be a
                  inspiration from age-old knowledge,         very essential nutrient.”
                  and adapts it to the 21st century to of-         The OVOPUR is therefore much



 OVOPUR FILTERS
                  fer citizens water of a better quality.     more than just a water filter: “It’s a
                  “Back 2,000 years ago, the Romans           global, sensual and playful experience,
                  and Greeks already used egg-shaped          a way to live water to its every drop.”
                  amphora to conserve water and wine,”             An experience that could fore-



 ARE RECYCLABLE
                  states Manuel. As humble as they come,      ver change the way we taste the subs-
                  the creators were able to come up with      tance…
                  a product that is as environmentally




 AND ITS PARTS
 HANDMADE.”



       AQUAOVO                                           AQUAOVO
       - 16 -                                            - 17 -
ONCE UPON A TIME…

    PEARLS BEFORE
        SWINE
“Do not give what is holy
to dogs, and do not throw
your pearls before swine,
or they will trample them
under their feet, and turn
and tear you to pieces.”
                                   Mathieu 7 : 6




             PEARLS BEFORE SWINE                   PEARLS BEFORE SWINE
                   - 18 -                                - 19 -
“It was like discovering
                                                                                                                  a treasure chest. It didn’t
                                                                                                                  contain pearls or gold,
                                                                                                                  but the symbolic value
                                                                                                                  of these objects
                                                                                                                  was priceless.”
In the beginning, there were pearls… Pearls Before        salvage a damaged vinyl record. The imperfec-           imperfect pearls, which most jewellers tended            forged by hand at the start of the century is given
Swine is the fascinating story of Himo Martin,            tion proved to be esthetically pleasing, inspiring      to discard. “Things don’t have to be perfect to          new life under the traits of a ring set with pearls.
a nomadic spirit (he spent the first few years of         even. His next step: a jewellery collection made        be magnificent; sometimes it’s precisely those           Himo was even able to salvage scraps of metal
his life cruising the highways of the United States       from recycled records, most of them found off the       imperfections that make a pearl rare.”                   from the site of his family home, stricken by fire
with his family, after their home was ravaged by          beaten path.                                                The name Pearls Before Swine is also filled          almost 30 years ago. “It was like discovering a
fire in 1980) whose story is laden with coincidences          It was also unexpectedly that pearls came           with symbolism: do not give things of beauty to          treasure chest. It didn’t contain pearls or gold, but
that shaped his fiercely environmentalist crea-           into Himo’s life, after his studies at Vancouver’s      those who will not be able to appreciate them.           the symbolic value of these objects was priceless.”
tive genius. “The environment, or environments,           Liberal Arts Langara College. To do a friend a          “When the art form we’re working on is anti-con-              For his collaboration with Sid Lee Collective,
inspire me; I try to recreate them, to inject them        favour, he began distributing Japanese-cultured         formist in nature, not everyone is going to jump         Himo has the history of Montreal in mind. And so
into my work,” confides the jeweller.                     Akoya pearls in Canada. Himo then let himself be        out of their seats. It speaks to people who truly        each jewel will not only tell its own story, but also
    Behind each of his Pearls Before Swine jewels         inspired by these grains, breaking the taboo            want to experience it.”                                  that of Montreal and, inevitably, its creator.
you can find a trace of this captivating story.           of the perfect pearl. “People have a very classic           By way of jewels that are both raw and refined,           As we can clearly see, Pearls Before Swine
Having inherited an environmental conscience              image of pearls; they see them as symbols of            Himo questions the value of objects. He’s known          is a story: the story of Himo Martin, pearls,
from his hippie family, Himo made his debut in            purity, of class,” he states. Wanting to do away with   for recreating metallic pieces he comes upon             Montreal… By wearing these jewels, the story
the world of jewellery-making when he tried to            this symbol of perfection, he chose to work with        randomly, and transforming them into art: a nail         becomes ours as well.




                                               PEARLS BEFORE SWINE                                                                                              PEARLS BEFORE SWINE
                                                     - 20 -                                                                                                           - 21 -
At a time when multifunction cell           who studied carpentry, is in charge of
            phone/PDA/mp3 players have inunda-          the technical aspects of the creative
            ted department store shelves, the guys      process, where as Mike is primarily
            at FURNI have chosen to go against          responsible for the artistic aspects of the
            the tide and return to the basics. “At      design. “FURNI is inspired by retro




FURNI
            FURNI, we believe less is more. Our         art. We’re lucky because the city of
            objects definitely have a function, but     Montreal came of age during the 70’s:
            it’s just one basic function. A FURNI       the metro, the curves, the primary
            watch, for example, will tell you           colours… We just have to open our
            the time,” declares Mike Giles with a       eyes and inspiration is there!”
            sly grin.                                        As skateboard enthusiasts, the
  Back            As a result, FURNI offers a           guys at FURNI give their products a
    to      collection of objects in a minimalist       personal touch by naming them after
  basics    style, designed from start to finish by     professional skateboarders from the
            Montrealers Devin Barrette and Mike         80’s (GATOR SE, KNOX, ALBA
            Giles. Watches, alarm clocks, magazine      MA). “We’re trying to show that FUR-
            racks, bathroom accessories: FURNI          NI is personal and tangible. Big chains
            products all share a simple functional      like IKEA have democratized design,
            aesthetic with a resolutely retro touch.    making it affordable. But because they
                  Ironically, FURNI got its start       produce in industrial quantities, they
            when Mike and Devin found themsel-          have to sacrifice quality. Not FURNI!”
            ves without jobs…but not without the        When you make a purchase, you’re
            will to work! They therefore began to       then given a code that allows you to see
            produce custom-built furnishings for        photos on the FURNI website (furni-
            individual clients. But they both drea-     creations.com) of the pair hard at work.
            med of someday creating their own                It is not simply the style that
            line of products. After some decisive       captivates quite a few customers, but
            trials (notably in 2006 at the Canadian     also the idea of going back to basics.
            Design Exhibition in New York), the         “With today’s technology, certain
            guys at FURNI experimented with             products have functions that the
            their first collection. Two years and       customer will never use, to the extent
            2,000 deliveries later, you could say the   that instruction booklets sometimes
            experiment proved to be a success.          resemble telephone books.”
                  This success is tied to the comple-        Rest assured, with FURNI pro-
            mentary skills of both partners: Devin,     ducts, there will only be one…




    FURNI                                           FURNI
   - 22 -                                          - 23 -
Krane is much more than a definition: since 2004, it’s
                   also a clothing label that offers men’s clothes and unites
                   the styles of yesterday and today, with details borrowed
                   from industrial design. Sturdy, tailored elegance and
                   finished by hand. “The goal is to make Krane a (life)
                   style that speaks to men who appreciate cultural
                   diversity and richness in their daily lives.”
                        The man behind Krane is designer Ken Chow, born
                   in China but raised near Toronto. When Chow was
                   eight, a teacher noticed his artistic talent and suggested
                   to his parents that he take painting classes. At first inte-
                   rested in visual art, Ken Chow branched off into (high)
                   fashion to study men’s design at the Fashion Institute
                   of Technology in New York, before interning with
                   Marc Jacobs and Alexandre Plokhov (Cloak), no less!
                        A love of art, design and culture in general comes




KRANE
                   through in every one of the designer’s creations. “I love
                   art, music, film, architecture … Krane is a mix of many
                   artistic disciplines that interact in a fashion context.”
                        The art of “wa” also influences Ken’s work, as
                   witnessed by the military aesthetic of his vintage bags
                   (the Siebel messenger bag, the Krivak duffle bag).
     A RARE BIRD   “I developed this attraction [for the military aesthetic]
                   as a child, when I entered an art contest for Remem-
                   brance Day.” In the hands of Ken Chow, unarmed


    Crane:         soldiers become fashion icons, with their uniforms
                   revamped for a practical chic. With waxed cotton,
                   leather and magnetic closures, the contemporary


 Both a bird
                   styling of Krane bags and coats (often finished by
                   hand) appeals to young urban professionals.
                        Ken Chow also draws inspiration from architec-
                   ture, particularly that of I. M. Pei (whose accomplish-

    and an         ments include the Louvre pyramid in Paris). “Pei is a
                   free spirit who thinks outside the box.” In this vein,
                   Krane’s calfskin leather zipper tie plays with bounda-


  industrial
                   ries, pushing the accessory outside of its traditional
                   context and moving the tie out of the boardroom.
                        As it does in Asian symbolism, Krane definitely


   machine.
                   seems to promise long life.




 In Asia, the
   crane is a
symbol of life
and longevity.
         KRANE                                 KRANE
        - 24 -                                - 25 -
TEAM
MACHO A FIVE-DIMENSIONAL UNIVERSE

    “You unlock the door
with the key of imagination.”
          THE TWILIGHT ZONE




               TEAM MACHO           TEAM MACHO
                 - 26 -               - 27 -
Put your preconceived notions of art and its
             rules aside and immerse yourself in the drawings
             of Team Macho; it promises to be a highly
             colourful adventure.
                  Team Macho was born of a frustration,
             particularly that of four Illustration students at
             Toronto’s Sheridan College. Discouraged by the
             lack of artistic sensibility in education and in their
             profession in general (“Illustration is often seen as
             a second-rate art form”), they decided in 2004 to
             break free from rules. And ever since then, Lauchie
             Reid, Christopher Buchan, Stephen Appleby-Barr
             and Nicholas Aoki ( Jacob Whibley would join the
             team later) have been combining their efforts and
             talents to create artwork in which styles, imagina-
             tions and visions are in constant communication.
             “Each member creates what he wants. Our styles
             often come together in a chaotic way, but cohesion
             always seems to prevail in the end product.”
                  A touch of each Macho can therefore be
             seen in every one of their drawings. Improvisa-
             tion plays a vital role in the joint creative process,
             the result being eye-opening: juxtaposed styles
             producing colourful works with a resolutely sar-
             castic tone (think Mao Guys, Hello Spyderman,
             etc.). Visual manifestos that leave no spectator
             indifferent and even push them to self-reflection,
             urging them to decode the visual story hidden
             behind each scenario. “The end result is reliant
             upon each spectator’s personal and unique inter-
             pretation and so the image is never decoded in
             the same way twice.”
                  Trained in illustration for commercial
             purposes, the Machos often inject their works
             with messages (images) that satirize the monetary
             and commercial aspect of the advertising medium.
             Published in 2007, Fancy Action Now regroups
             visual gems like Baby Dyke, Angel Haters or even
             Lighting Factory, which was created on a lined
             sheet of paper.
                  After their Friends 4 Life (2005) and Team
             Macho is a Though Man (2006) exhibitions
             in Toronto, these macho icons are hitting in
             Amsterdam in grand style, for their joint project
             with Sid Lee Collective. Lauchie, Christopher,
             Stephen, Nicholas and Jacob hope to push the
             boundaries of their universe even further, this
             time by way of thematic and original installations.
                  Team Macho’s artistic universe is sure
             to take spectators on a journey way past the
             fourth dimension.




TEAM MACHO                          TEAM MACHO
  - 28 -                              - 29 -
TEAM MACHO   TEAM MACHO
  - 30 -       - 31 -
“Impro-
 visation
 plays a
 vital role
 in the
 joint
 creative
 process.”

    TEAM MACHO   TEAM MACHO
      - 32 -       - 33 -
CLOTHING, PAINTING,
 MUSIC, THEATRE, RENATA
 MORALES HAS COLLABO-
 RATED ON A THOUSAND
 AND ONE PROJECTS,
 INCLUDING SOME
 FOR THE LIKES OF
 CIRQUE DU SOLEIL
 AND CANNES.


MORALES
 Art Deco




         RENATA MORALES   RENATA MORALES
             - 34 -           - 35 -
It’s tough to categorize Renata
Morales under one profession. Clo-
                                              hit Montreal runways. Many more
                                              would follow… But it wasn’t always
                                                                                        “PAINTING IS MY ALLY.
thing, painting, music, theatre…              smooth sailing for Renata Morales.        WHEN I CREATE CLOTHING,
Renata Morales has collaborated on
a thousand and one projects, inclu-
                                              “My first designs were horrible!”
                                              Kind of hard to believe when you
                                                                                        AN EXPRESSION BECOMES
ding some for the likes of Cirque du          look at her ultra-feminine, simply        MORE ACCESSIBLE
Soleil and Cannes (the latter for
Denis Villeneuve’s latest short, Next
                                              flawless dresses.
                                                   Different art forms coexist
                                                                                        THANKS TO PAINTING.”
Door, which won the Grand Prize               in Renata Morales’ universe, and
at the International Critics’ Week            the artist exhibits her canvasses at
in Cannes 2008). “I love working              several art galleries. She, who signs
with different people and different           her clothing pieces as one would
mediums,” says the multitalented              sign a painting, reveals: “Painting is
creator.                                      my ally. When I create clothing, an
     A born artist, the 34-year-old           expression becomes more accessible
native of Mexico (but a Montrealer            thanks to painting.”
at heart!), travels a lot. Her eyes light          Renata Morales can’t get enough
up when she speaks of Tokyo, which            of working with her hands. It’s all
she visited for the first time last year.     in the details: shapes, fabrics, com-
“Tokyo is a carnival for all your senses.     binations. A meticulousness which
So much fun.” Travelling is a source          results in textured dresses, stamped
of inspiration for her, like art in its       with purity. “I’m much more of a
every form.                                   decorator, a sculptor of clothing, than
     When Renata Morales arrived              certain designers who tend to work
in Montreal 20 years ago, she studied         more as architects.” The dresses pre-
plastic arts at Lionel-Groulx College.        pared for Sid Lee Collective are fai-
“I always had that in me: art, pain-          thful to this very appealing image.
ting, a love for music; and I’d always             Designer, painter, decorator,
wanted to make clothing.” It was in           sculptor… Renata Morales is a bit
Montreal in 1999 that she opened              of every one of these. And with her,
her first clothing boutique; the fol-         art and fashion have never been
lowing year, her first fashion shows          so tight.




                                     RENATA MORALES                                                     RENATA MORALES
                                         - 36 -                                                             - 37 -
RENATA MORALES   RENATA MORALES
    - 38 -           - 39 -
CASTOR
        ROCKING DESIGN!




“At first, we wanted
  to be rock stars.
   Unfortunately,
  I don’t have any
  musical talent.”
             CASTOR       CASTOR
             - 40 -       - 41 -
A true rocker at heart, Brian Richer instead chose          The Castor slogan: Make **it Look Good.
to shake up the world of design with his Castor        “We try to combine humour and skill when desi-
Design project. The end product is worthy of the       gning.” This philosophy guides their work and
greatest of rock icons: lamps made of recycled neon    often leads them to design with recycled or rough
tubes, a shipping container converted into a sauna,    materials. “Our style is very low-fi. The object’s
and Oddfellows, a restaurant and bar-come-event        function must never be forgotten in favour of
venue that’s opening soon in Toronto.                  aesthetics. When you think about it, recycling
     The “design beaver” (castor means “beaver”        neon tubes to make a lamp is almost absurd … but
in French) is barely two years old, but already        check out the end result!”
its uncompromising work is bearing fruit. It has            The result appeals to connoisseurs of singu-
to be said: Brian Richer’s ingenuity takes design      lar design who definitely don’t take themselves
beyond its traditional scope. “I don’t theorize        seriously. Castor’s unique products are already
too much about my creative process. I don’t have       distributed in Toronto, New York, Miami, and
a plan, I just go where the work takes me.” Talk       now Amsterdam. Brian is the first to be surprised
about a jam session!                                   by Castor Design’s success. “I made the first lamp
     After working for eight years as a stone          for my house ten years ago, and today people are
carver, Brian felt like trying something different     buying them.” Clearly, the beavers should try to
and decided to make a go of the Castor Design          come to terms with success, because it doesn’t
experience in 2006. “I’d been designing objects        seem anywhere close to letting up: Castor Design
for myself for a long time, but I’d never marketed     has been approached to participate in the next
them.” With his confederate, Kei Ng, an architect      Venice Biennale. Here’s to drinking to the beavers’
by training and owner of Toronto’s Kei restaurant,     success at Oddfellows!
Brian dove headfirst into the wonderful world of
the do-it-yourselfer, just like the firm’s namesake.




                                                  CASTOR                                                     CASTOR
                                                  - 42 -                                                     - 43 -
COMPLEXGEOMETRIES
                                  THE COMPLEX LANGUAGE OF CLOTHING

                                             THINK TWICE ABOUT WHAT YOU PUT ON!
                    That’s what Clayton Evans proposes with his complexgeometries collection, which invites
                             consumers to look at clothing differently, maybe even interact with it.

                                      “BEFORE WEARING A SWEATER FROM THE COLLECTION,
                                             YOU SHOULD KNOW HOW TO WEAR IT.”




COMPLEXGEOMETRIES                                        COMPLEXGEOMETRIES
     - 44 -                                                   - 45 -
Bearing asymmetric and uneven cuts, and details treal’s biosphere is an example). Since then,
                    that go beyond the ordinary, clothing from the Clayton Evans has had a more global vision of
                    complexgeometries collection encourages consu- clothing, which incorporates not only style but also




                    CLAYTON EVANS’ STUDIO IS A LAB
                    WHERE HIS IDEAS ARE EXPERI-
                    MENTED ON CLOTHING. AT THE
                    ROOT OF HIS CREATIONS IS HIS
                    DESIRE TO BALANCE BACKGROUND
                    AND FORM, STYLE AND MEANING.
                    mers to reflect on what they’re wearing. “The          meaning. And that’s how complexgeometries
                    pieces are modifiable, so each person can adapt        came to be. The collection, which first raised
                    them to their personality.” For the Alberta-born       eybrows in Asia and Europe, will hit the Uni-
                    designer, clothing serves a much greater purpose       ted States this fall. Complexgeometries offers
                    than just style. “It’s probably the most important     men’s and women’s lines, as well as a unisex one.
                    form of nonverbal communication. What you              The organic-textured cotton and silk clothing
                    wear and how you wear it speaks volumes of you.”       is often created from a single piece of fabric.
                         In 2002, Clayton Evans moved to Montreal,         Complexgeometries’ dresses, shirts and tunics
                    following his studies at the Alberta College of        all have something unique, as they mirror those
                    Art and Design. Shortly after, he discovered the       who don them. “Fashion isn’t static; it changes
                    man who would transform the way he looked              and renews itself constantly. My pieces do, too.”
                    at clothing, American architect and visionary               With complexgeometries, taking the time
                    Buckminster Fuller (1895-1983, Buckminster Ful-        to properly dress yourself can take on a whole
                    ler invented the geodesic dome, of which Mon-          new meaning.




COMPLEXGEOMETRIES                                                COMPLEXGEOMETRIES
     - 46 -                                                           - 47 -
“The only
                        way to survive
                         is by having
                          a personal
                             touch.”
                        “I came to London to enjoy the fantastic quality
                        of life this city has to offer!” jokes Québécois desi-
                        gner Philippe Malouin. A recent graduate of De-
                        sign Academy Eindhoven in the Netherlands, the
                        25-year-old designer has just opened the doors of
                        his first London studio. “It seems everything gra-
                        vitates to London, whether it be music, fashion,
                        art or design: it’s where trends in the artistic
                        world appear.”
  Philippe

MALOUIN
                              Before London, Philippe Malouin spent his
                        time between Canada, France and the Netherlands.
                        He’s a globe-trotting designer, always seeking to
                        push the boundaries of design “by design”.
                              His hybrid creations, like the Grace Table (an
                        inflatable table), the Hanger Chair or the Monarc
                        Bag, perfectly blend different design schools.
  A CREATIVE MIX        Thus, the highly industrial approach of the Uni-
                        versity of Montreal meets the more classic style
                        of Paris’ École Nationale de Création Industrielle
                        (where he also studied) and the more conceptual,
                        experimental philosophy of Design Academy
                        Eindhoven. A textbook case of design fusion,
                        between industrial and limited edition!
                              Philippe Malouin’s artistic development is
                        closely linked to his personal evolution, with a
                        mix of influences in which François Azambourg
                        (Hermès), Frank Tjepkema (Tjep) and Tom Dixon
                        have equal importance. “At the very beginning,
                        I tried to imitate what the great designers were
                        doing. But I soon learned that, in this profession, the
                        only way to survive is by having a personal touch.”
                              There’s no doubt that today Philippe
                        Malouin truly has a style of his own. The center-
                        piece of his work is the Hanger Chair, a piece that
                        restores the glory of collapsible furniture, the kind
                        you pull out of the closet on nights when special
                        guests drop by. A mix of folding chair and hanger,
                        the Hanger Chair plays a double game: both prac-
                        tical and aesthetically pleasing, it makes you want
                        to invite a crowd over.
                              Time to break out the Hanger Chair!




     PHILIPPE MALOUIN                         PHILIPPE MALOUIN
          - 48 -                                   - 49 -
Naked                                            processing methods used by Naked and Famous
                                                      combine old-school techniques with cutting-edge


      and
                                                      technology to produce unique top-quality denim.
                                                           And Brandon knows the rag trade! His family
                                                      has been in the Montreal clothing business for


    Famous
                                                      three generations, and Naked and Famous is
                                                      headquartered in the city’s garment district. So
                                                      it was a longstanding passion that led him to
                                                      develop unusual fabrics for his premium jeans,
                                                      like blends of denim and silk, or even denim and
            DRESSED FOR SUCCESS                       cashmere, a nearly rigid 21-ounce denim, and
                                                      many others. For jeans lovers who care about
The Naked and Famous logo speaks for itself: a        the environment, Naked and Famous has even
pop art topless woman purrs at the customer to        designed a “green jean” that features organic
buy… clothing! But not just any clothing: jeans       cotton, natural indigo dye, and green stitching.
made from the highest quality denim, imported              Naked and Famous, launched in early 2008,
from Japan. And Naked and Famous needs no             is still young. But the fashion industry from
celebrity endorsers to convince us to buy: just try   New York to Montreal took note of its arrival, and
on a pair and you’ll be sold!                         it must be said they find its product fascinating:
     The genius behind Naked and Famous is            premium jeans made in Canada at extremely
that of Brandon Svarc. This young man’s eyes          attractive prices. “At Naked and Famous, we
light up behind his dark glasses when he talks        don’t spend money on eye candy!” There’s no
about denim. “I’m sort of a jeans nerd”, he con-      distressing of fabric, no trendy embroideries or
fesses jokingly. That’s no surprise, since all his    embellishments, nothing superf luous. “Doing
jeans use selvedge denim, woven in Japan (for the     away with these costly steps means that the cus-
uninitiated, the words “selvedge” or “salvage” come   tomer pays only the actual cost of a quality jean,
from “self-edge” and refer to the denim fabric’s      not for an image that basically has nothing to do
finished edge. This old-style weaving technique,      with the product.” A simple, modern cut that covers
which ensures stability and quality, has nearly       up the naked bits with the best quality denim
disappeared today, replaced by more cost-efficient    anywhere: isn’t that what dressing for success is
processes). Svarc, a 26-year-old Montrealer,          all about? Naked and Famous gets it. And we’re
has always been obsessed with excellence. The         betting that it won’t take long before you do, too!




                    NAKED AND FAMOUS                                      NOM DE LA SECTION
                        - 50 -                                                - 51 -
Mireille Boucher’s world teems            the surreal imagery of Hans Ruedi
                    with life! While her organic and          Giger, the Swiss artist and designer
                    captivating Harakiri jewellery may        whose work appears in the film
                    contain allusions of mortality, it’s      Alien. The influence is clearly there.
                    far from death. Instead, each                 A good bit of imagination is
                    design hints at a mysteriously fan-       needed to guess what lurks within
                    tastic back story. There are pieces       the detail of a Harakiri piece, such
                    with an austere feel or fascinating       as Gothic-influenced necklaces fea-
                    depth, and others brimming with           turing a finely worked mouse skull
                    questions—rhetorical, of course!          or delicately intertwined bird legs.




Harakiri
                    OFTEN INSPIRED
                    BY NATURE,
                    HARAKIRI JEWELLERY
  A PAEAN TO LIFE   HAS A SOMEWHAT
                    SPIRITUAL SIDE.
                         From all appearances, Mireille       While Harakiri pieces may have a
                    Boucher wasn’t predestined to             hard, skeletal side, they are infused
                    become a jewellery designer. Not          with delicacy and softness, a contrast
                    even a little? Well, it’s more that the   in the image of their creator.
                    art of jewellery design came to her            Mireille’s references to harakiri
                    when she was hardly expecting it.         aren’t morbid, but musical (from
                    “A co-worker was wearing a magnif-        the Nina Hagen song Atomic Flash
                    icent ring”, Mireille recalls. “I was     Deluxe), although she also sees a cer-
                    stunned to learn that she had made        tain poetry in the obviously bloody
                    it herself!” This bit of happenstance     practice. “In feudal times, it was
                    would lead her far, well beyond           believed that the entrails revealed a
                    her jewellery-making studies in           person’s true nature. So ritual dis-
                    Montreal. In 2003, Harakiri was           embowelment may have been seen
                    born, with an innate predilection         as way to profess one’s real feelings.”
                    for out of the ordinary design. “One           There is no doubt whatsoever
                    of my first pieces was a little cast      as to Mireille’s sincerity. Her genu-
                    bone, embedded with diamonds.”            ineness is appreciated and recog-
                         Often inspired by nature,            nized by her peers. She worked on
                    Harakiri jewellery has a somewhat         designer Denis Gagnon’s recent
                    spiritual side. “There was a rumour       shows, and has a thousand and one
                    at one point that my designs were         other ideas in mind: “I’m working
                    endowed with certain powers”, the         now with moulded resin to create
                    35-year-old designer says. “I love the    high-end pieces, because that’s the
                    idea of jewellery with magical power.”    niche I belong in.”
                         Each Harakiri piece is unique,            And now with Amsterdam, the
                    and all are fashioned from the finest     world is opening up to Mireille
                    materials—like gold or silver—with        and Harakiri. A world of dark and
                    brushed, oxidized, or unpolished fin-     light, and a world of the contrasts
                    ishes. Mireille’s designs are flowing     that coexist so beautifully in her
                    and mechanical, sometimes evoking         Harakiri jewellery.




        HARAKIRI                                         HARAKIRI
        - 52 -                                           - 53 -
Coe
  &
Waito
 TWO NATURAL WOMEN




        COE&WAITO    COE&WAITO
         - 54 -       - 55 -
Coe&Waito is a serenade to nature sung by                 Coe&Waito was born, featuring aesthetic
            Alissa Coe and Carly Waito, two young                and functional pieces inspired by the natural
            designers who have united their voices and           environment. “Sometimes our point of reference
            their passion for ceramics and industrial design.    is a specific detail from the natural world,
            With a pure, modern aesthetic and immac-             sometimes it is a vague impression or feeling
            ulate white colour, their whimsical creations        we want to create,” the artists explain. The
            inspire a sense of peace and tranquillity.           work is, in essence, a harmonious marriage of
                 Deciding to collaborate was a “natural”         industrial design and decorative art, of Alissa’s
            decision for Alissa and Carly, who met while         ingenuity and Carly’s imagination.
            studying industrial design at the Ontario                 Japanese and Scandinavian techniques
            College of Art & Design. “Before we knew             inspire their sleek and elegant pieces, which
            each other, we would find ourselves arriving         offer a glimpse of the sublime. Porcelain vases
            to class, having made eerily similar projects,”      with coral-like details mingle with delicate
            recalls the pair. After falling in love with         ceramic pinecones, muted lamps, and a stunning
            ceramics, these young women dedicated their          installation of ethereal jellyfish, which has
            hearts and souls to working with this “versatile     been displayed at numerous Canadian galleries.
            material that offers infinite possibilities.”        “We try to create things that have an element
            Their partnership did not end with their             of preciousness about them, in hopes that they
            study program. On the contrary, newly                will be cherished and saved for a long time.”
            graduated Alissa and Carly launched their                 One thing is for sure: the Coe&Waito
            own collection in 2004.                              collection will touch you… naturally!




COE&WAITO                                                  COE&WAITO
 - 56 -                                                     - 57 -
SPECIAL THANKS

Sid Lee would like to thank:
writer Fabienne Vinet

And all participating creators:
complexgeometries.com
teammacho.com
castordesign.ca
furnicreations.com
aquaovo.com
kranedesign.com
renatamorales.com
pearlsbeforeswine.ca
philippemalouin.com


CONTACT INFORMATION

Ateliers:	       Montreal
                 75 Queen Street, Suite 1400
                 Montreal, Quebec
                 H3C 2N6
                 Canada
                 Phone: +1 514-282-2200
                 Amsterdam
                 Gerard Doustraat 72
                 1072 VV Amsterdam
                 The Netherlands
                 Phone: +31 (0) 206 623030
                 Paris
                 12 rue du Sentier
                 75 002 Paris
                 France
                 Phone: +33 (1) 44 88 83 90
                 Toronto
                 55 Mill Street
                 Building 5 , Suite 500
                 Toronto, Ontario
                 M5A 3C4
                 Canada
                 Phone: +1 416 - 421-4200
                 Austin
                 Suite D-102
                 3601 South Congress
                 Austin, Texas 78704
                 United States
                 Phone: +1 512 - 444-3533
Websites:        sidlee.com
                 sidleearchitecture.com
                 jimmylee.tv
Another   fanzine

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SID LEE COLLECTIVE | Creative Emporium

  • 1. The Creative Emporium Meet the creators collaborating with the Sid Lee Collective store and gallery in Amsterdam.
  • 2. The Creative Emporium Meet the creators collaborating with the Sid Lee Collective store and gallery in Amsterdam. SID LEE COLLECTIVE - 4 ADIEU - 10 AQUAOVO - 14 PEARLS BEFORE SWINE - 18 FURNI - 22 KRANE - 24 TEAM MACHO - 26 RENATA MORALES - 34 CASTOR - 40 COMPLEXGEOMETRIES - 44 PHILIPPE MALOUIN - 48 NOM DE LA SECTION - 3 -
  • 3. CREATI- A true celebration of creativity, Sid Lee Collective is the embodi- VITY ment of our Montreal roots and culture. It is a living organism that beats to our values. EMPO- Our shop creates the perfect stage for young Montrealers and RIUM Canadian design talent who may not otherwise be seen beyond Canadian borders. Collaborators are selected primarily for the stories they bring with them, as you will see in this magazine. Sid Lee COLLECTIVE Sid Lee COLLECTIVE - 4 - - 5 -
  • 4. Onetop Sid loves Turbo vols. 1 & 2 CLOTHING MUSIC Sid Lee Collective created a series of posters to honour the fact Turbo Recordings is a label dedicated to releasing only the highest quality that Montreal was named a UNESCO City of Design 2007. electronic music. Based in Montreal, Canada, Turbo has quickly become Onetop and Sid Lee planned a collection of t-shirts featuring designs an internationally recognized brand with their trademark mix of inspired from these posters. A total of 40 different models were created. uncompromising music and cutting-edge artwork. Sid Lee COLLECTIVE Sid Lee COLLECTIVE - 6 - - 7 -
  • 5. Sit! by Sid Sid’s kitchen FURNITURE KITCHENWARE Sid Lee Collective and Perez hook up to create a furniture collection An experiment in kitchenware creativity, this collection emphasizes that is both naughty and nice. the artistic and authentic sides of our culinary culture. Sid Lee COLLECTIVE Sid Lee COLLECTIVE - 8 - - 9 -
  • 6. ADIEU Never Can Say Goodbye ADIEU ADIEU - 10 - - 11 -
  • 7. Melinda Santillan-Moreno is all over the map. Montreal at the boutique Reborn, then at the Never in the same place twice, the young Mexi- 2007 edition of the event Souk @ SAT. can-Canadian artist scours the planet, both Adieu’s cotton t-shirts have quite a vintage physically and virtually. Voyages, like so many of look. The recipe? Top secret!” she lets out with the encounters that shine through in Adieu, her a laugh. “Each t-shirt is unique. The degree of playfully and rebelliously printed collection of vintage and the print composition are different translucent t-shirts. Melinda pushes boundaries, every time, eaning that no two people will ever both terrestrial and artistic, combining genres have the same shirt. It’s kind of what I’m after in with a rare naivety. fashion, its uniqueness.” It was while pursuing her studies at Melinda doesn’t wait for things to come Vancouver’s Emily Carr College of Arts that to her; she makes them happen herself. And Melinda discovered screen printing, a process Melinda Santillan-Moreno’s art isn’t just limited that enabled her to play around with her creations, to fashion, either. “The Internet allows me to depending on her given inspiration. Her black meet people that really influence my work. My ink drawings (the 28-year-old artist favours projects become international without me even working in black and white and admits: “Colours having to leave the country.” intimidate me”) are therefore superimposed on Art is really is everywhere for Melinda, but pictures or wording to create compositions that mostly in the most unexpected of places. She comes are surprisingly colourful! The beauty of screen across it around corners, in Mexico’s gold-coloured printing? The combinations are endless—and so signage, in old class pictures or even just by people- are the t-shirts! watching. “Clothing is made unique by those who Much like their globetrotter creator, Melinda’s wear it, too!” she underlines. first t-shirts were originally distributed in Japan! And you, what colour will you give your The Adieu collection grew and was presented in Adieu? ADIEU ADIEU - 12 - - 13 -
  • 8. AQUA- OVO’S WHITE WATER Noémie & Manuel Desrochers HAVE THEIR SIGHTS SET ON WATER! With their company AQUAOVO, which offers an original and environmentally friendly alternative to conventional water dispensers, these two young Quebecois entrepreneurs are attempting to make water number one again in people’s everyday lives. AQUAOVO AQUAOVO - 14 - - 15 -
  • 9. “AQUAOVO Manuel spent three years conduc- friendly as it is esthetically pleasing— ting research before he finally laid the the OVOPUR is even featured in OVOPUR, a new-age water distribution several Montreal-based art galleries. and filtration system that consumes Beyond style, AQUAOVO products MAKES IT THEIR no electricity. With curves in all the are all stamped with an environmen- right places, the egg-shaped dispenser tal conscience. AQUAOVO makes it reproduces water’s natural cycle as their duty to use as little plastic pos- closely as possible, using gravity to sible—OVOPUR filters are recyclable DUTY TO USE AS filter tap water. It’s a nature-inspired, and its parts handmade. The company eco-design approach for the young also develops a line of environmentally artist, whose creative process is greatly friendly accessories and always uses influenced by Mother Nature. “Ob- noble and durable materials such as LITTLE PLASTIC serve, understand and imitate nature,” porcelain, glass and metal. says Manuel quoting Austrian natura- A keen independent learner, list and inventor Victor Schauberger Manuel speaks of water with a purely (1885-1958), who spoke of water as the poetic passion: “People need more POSSIBLE— “Earth’s blood.” than to just live, they need to nourish Cutting-edge, the OVOPUR draws themselves, and water happens to be a inspiration from age-old knowledge, very essential nutrient.” and adapts it to the 21st century to of- The OVOPUR is therefore much OVOPUR FILTERS fer citizens water of a better quality. more than just a water filter: “It’s a “Back 2,000 years ago, the Romans global, sensual and playful experience, and Greeks already used egg-shaped a way to live water to its every drop.” amphora to conserve water and wine,” An experience that could fore- ARE RECYCLABLE states Manuel. As humble as they come, ver change the way we taste the subs- the creators were able to come up with tance… a product that is as environmentally AND ITS PARTS HANDMADE.” AQUAOVO AQUAOVO - 16 - - 17 -
  • 10. ONCE UPON A TIME… PEARLS BEFORE SWINE “Do not give what is holy to dogs, and do not throw your pearls before swine, or they will trample them under their feet, and turn and tear you to pieces.” Mathieu 7 : 6 PEARLS BEFORE SWINE PEARLS BEFORE SWINE - 18 - - 19 -
  • 11. “It was like discovering a treasure chest. It didn’t contain pearls or gold, but the symbolic value of these objects was priceless.” In the beginning, there were pearls… Pearls Before salvage a damaged vinyl record. The imperfec- imperfect pearls, which most jewellers tended forged by hand at the start of the century is given Swine is the fascinating story of Himo Martin, tion proved to be esthetically pleasing, inspiring to discard. “Things don’t have to be perfect to new life under the traits of a ring set with pearls. a nomadic spirit (he spent the first few years of even. His next step: a jewellery collection made be magnificent; sometimes it’s precisely those Himo was even able to salvage scraps of metal his life cruising the highways of the United States from recycled records, most of them found off the imperfections that make a pearl rare.” from the site of his family home, stricken by fire with his family, after their home was ravaged by beaten path. The name Pearls Before Swine is also filled almost 30 years ago. “It was like discovering a fire in 1980) whose story is laden with coincidences It was also unexpectedly that pearls came with symbolism: do not give things of beauty to treasure chest. It didn’t contain pearls or gold, but that shaped his fiercely environmentalist crea- into Himo’s life, after his studies at Vancouver’s those who will not be able to appreciate them. the symbolic value of these objects was priceless.” tive genius. “The environment, or environments, Liberal Arts Langara College. To do a friend a “When the art form we’re working on is anti-con- For his collaboration with Sid Lee Collective, inspire me; I try to recreate them, to inject them favour, he began distributing Japanese-cultured formist in nature, not everyone is going to jump Himo has the history of Montreal in mind. And so into my work,” confides the jeweller. Akoya pearls in Canada. Himo then let himself be out of their seats. It speaks to people who truly each jewel will not only tell its own story, but also Behind each of his Pearls Before Swine jewels inspired by these grains, breaking the taboo want to experience it.” that of Montreal and, inevitably, its creator. you can find a trace of this captivating story. of the perfect pearl. “People have a very classic By way of jewels that are both raw and refined, As we can clearly see, Pearls Before Swine Having inherited an environmental conscience image of pearls; they see them as symbols of Himo questions the value of objects. He’s known is a story: the story of Himo Martin, pearls, from his hippie family, Himo made his debut in purity, of class,” he states. Wanting to do away with for recreating metallic pieces he comes upon Montreal… By wearing these jewels, the story the world of jewellery-making when he tried to this symbol of perfection, he chose to work with randomly, and transforming them into art: a nail becomes ours as well. PEARLS BEFORE SWINE PEARLS BEFORE SWINE - 20 - - 21 -
  • 12. At a time when multifunction cell who studied carpentry, is in charge of phone/PDA/mp3 players have inunda- the technical aspects of the creative ted department store shelves, the guys process, where as Mike is primarily at FURNI have chosen to go against responsible for the artistic aspects of the the tide and return to the basics. “At design. “FURNI is inspired by retro FURNI FURNI, we believe less is more. Our art. We’re lucky because the city of objects definitely have a function, but Montreal came of age during the 70’s: it’s just one basic function. A FURNI the metro, the curves, the primary watch, for example, will tell you colours… We just have to open our the time,” declares Mike Giles with a eyes and inspiration is there!” sly grin. As skateboard enthusiasts, the Back As a result, FURNI offers a guys at FURNI give their products a to collection of objects in a minimalist personal touch by naming them after basics style, designed from start to finish by professional skateboarders from the Montrealers Devin Barrette and Mike 80’s (GATOR SE, KNOX, ALBA Giles. Watches, alarm clocks, magazine MA). “We’re trying to show that FUR- racks, bathroom accessories: FURNI NI is personal and tangible. Big chains products all share a simple functional like IKEA have democratized design, aesthetic with a resolutely retro touch. making it affordable. But because they Ironically, FURNI got its start produce in industrial quantities, they when Mike and Devin found themsel- have to sacrifice quality. Not FURNI!” ves without jobs…but not without the When you make a purchase, you’re will to work! They therefore began to then given a code that allows you to see produce custom-built furnishings for photos on the FURNI website (furni- individual clients. But they both drea- creations.com) of the pair hard at work. med of someday creating their own It is not simply the style that line of products. After some decisive captivates quite a few customers, but trials (notably in 2006 at the Canadian also the idea of going back to basics. Design Exhibition in New York), the “With today’s technology, certain guys at FURNI experimented with products have functions that the their first collection. Two years and customer will never use, to the extent 2,000 deliveries later, you could say the that instruction booklets sometimes experiment proved to be a success. resemble telephone books.” This success is tied to the comple- Rest assured, with FURNI pro- mentary skills of both partners: Devin, ducts, there will only be one… FURNI FURNI - 22 - - 23 -
  • 13. Krane is much more than a definition: since 2004, it’s also a clothing label that offers men’s clothes and unites the styles of yesterday and today, with details borrowed from industrial design. Sturdy, tailored elegance and finished by hand. “The goal is to make Krane a (life) style that speaks to men who appreciate cultural diversity and richness in their daily lives.” The man behind Krane is designer Ken Chow, born in China but raised near Toronto. When Chow was eight, a teacher noticed his artistic talent and suggested to his parents that he take painting classes. At first inte- rested in visual art, Ken Chow branched off into (high) fashion to study men’s design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, before interning with Marc Jacobs and Alexandre Plokhov (Cloak), no less! A love of art, design and culture in general comes KRANE through in every one of the designer’s creations. “I love art, music, film, architecture … Krane is a mix of many artistic disciplines that interact in a fashion context.” The art of “wa” also influences Ken’s work, as witnessed by the military aesthetic of his vintage bags (the Siebel messenger bag, the Krivak duffle bag). A RARE BIRD “I developed this attraction [for the military aesthetic] as a child, when I entered an art contest for Remem- brance Day.” In the hands of Ken Chow, unarmed Crane: soldiers become fashion icons, with their uniforms revamped for a practical chic. With waxed cotton, leather and magnetic closures, the contemporary Both a bird styling of Krane bags and coats (often finished by hand) appeals to young urban professionals. Ken Chow also draws inspiration from architec- ture, particularly that of I. M. Pei (whose accomplish- and an ments include the Louvre pyramid in Paris). “Pei is a free spirit who thinks outside the box.” In this vein, Krane’s calfskin leather zipper tie plays with bounda- industrial ries, pushing the accessory outside of its traditional context and moving the tie out of the boardroom. As it does in Asian symbolism, Krane definitely machine. seems to promise long life. In Asia, the crane is a symbol of life and longevity. KRANE KRANE - 24 - - 25 -
  • 14. TEAM MACHO A FIVE-DIMENSIONAL UNIVERSE “You unlock the door with the key of imagination.” THE TWILIGHT ZONE TEAM MACHO TEAM MACHO - 26 - - 27 -
  • 15. Put your preconceived notions of art and its rules aside and immerse yourself in the drawings of Team Macho; it promises to be a highly colourful adventure. Team Macho was born of a frustration, particularly that of four Illustration students at Toronto’s Sheridan College. Discouraged by the lack of artistic sensibility in education and in their profession in general (“Illustration is often seen as a second-rate art form”), they decided in 2004 to break free from rules. And ever since then, Lauchie Reid, Christopher Buchan, Stephen Appleby-Barr and Nicholas Aoki ( Jacob Whibley would join the team later) have been combining their efforts and talents to create artwork in which styles, imagina- tions and visions are in constant communication. “Each member creates what he wants. Our styles often come together in a chaotic way, but cohesion always seems to prevail in the end product.” A touch of each Macho can therefore be seen in every one of their drawings. Improvisa- tion plays a vital role in the joint creative process, the result being eye-opening: juxtaposed styles producing colourful works with a resolutely sar- castic tone (think Mao Guys, Hello Spyderman, etc.). Visual manifestos that leave no spectator indifferent and even push them to self-reflection, urging them to decode the visual story hidden behind each scenario. “The end result is reliant upon each spectator’s personal and unique inter- pretation and so the image is never decoded in the same way twice.” Trained in illustration for commercial purposes, the Machos often inject their works with messages (images) that satirize the monetary and commercial aspect of the advertising medium. Published in 2007, Fancy Action Now regroups visual gems like Baby Dyke, Angel Haters or even Lighting Factory, which was created on a lined sheet of paper. After their Friends 4 Life (2005) and Team Macho is a Though Man (2006) exhibitions in Toronto, these macho icons are hitting in Amsterdam in grand style, for their joint project with Sid Lee Collective. Lauchie, Christopher, Stephen, Nicholas and Jacob hope to push the boundaries of their universe even further, this time by way of thematic and original installations. Team Macho’s artistic universe is sure to take spectators on a journey way past the fourth dimension. TEAM MACHO TEAM MACHO - 28 - - 29 -
  • 16. TEAM MACHO TEAM MACHO - 30 - - 31 -
  • 17. “Impro- visation plays a vital role in the joint creative process.” TEAM MACHO TEAM MACHO - 32 - - 33 -
  • 18. CLOTHING, PAINTING, MUSIC, THEATRE, RENATA MORALES HAS COLLABO- RATED ON A THOUSAND AND ONE PROJECTS, INCLUDING SOME FOR THE LIKES OF CIRQUE DU SOLEIL AND CANNES. MORALES Art Deco RENATA MORALES RENATA MORALES - 34 - - 35 -
  • 19. It’s tough to categorize Renata Morales under one profession. Clo- hit Montreal runways. Many more would follow… But it wasn’t always “PAINTING IS MY ALLY. thing, painting, music, theatre… smooth sailing for Renata Morales. WHEN I CREATE CLOTHING, Renata Morales has collaborated on a thousand and one projects, inclu- “My first designs were horrible!” Kind of hard to believe when you AN EXPRESSION BECOMES ding some for the likes of Cirque du look at her ultra-feminine, simply MORE ACCESSIBLE Soleil and Cannes (the latter for Denis Villeneuve’s latest short, Next flawless dresses. Different art forms coexist THANKS TO PAINTING.” Door, which won the Grand Prize in Renata Morales’ universe, and at the International Critics’ Week the artist exhibits her canvasses at in Cannes 2008). “I love working several art galleries. She, who signs with different people and different her clothing pieces as one would mediums,” says the multitalented sign a painting, reveals: “Painting is creator. my ally. When I create clothing, an A born artist, the 34-year-old expression becomes more accessible native of Mexico (but a Montrealer thanks to painting.” at heart!), travels a lot. Her eyes light Renata Morales can’t get enough up when she speaks of Tokyo, which of working with her hands. It’s all she visited for the first time last year. in the details: shapes, fabrics, com- “Tokyo is a carnival for all your senses. binations. A meticulousness which So much fun.” Travelling is a source results in textured dresses, stamped of inspiration for her, like art in its with purity. “I’m much more of a every form. decorator, a sculptor of clothing, than When Renata Morales arrived certain designers who tend to work in Montreal 20 years ago, she studied more as architects.” The dresses pre- plastic arts at Lionel-Groulx College. pared for Sid Lee Collective are fai- “I always had that in me: art, pain- thful to this very appealing image. ting, a love for music; and I’d always Designer, painter, decorator, wanted to make clothing.” It was in sculptor… Renata Morales is a bit Montreal in 1999 that she opened of every one of these. And with her, her first clothing boutique; the fol- art and fashion have never been lowing year, her first fashion shows so tight. RENATA MORALES RENATA MORALES - 36 - - 37 -
  • 20. RENATA MORALES RENATA MORALES - 38 - - 39 -
  • 21. CASTOR ROCKING DESIGN! “At first, we wanted to be rock stars. Unfortunately, I don’t have any musical talent.” CASTOR CASTOR - 40 - - 41 -
  • 22. A true rocker at heart, Brian Richer instead chose The Castor slogan: Make **it Look Good. to shake up the world of design with his Castor “We try to combine humour and skill when desi- Design project. The end product is worthy of the gning.” This philosophy guides their work and greatest of rock icons: lamps made of recycled neon often leads them to design with recycled or rough tubes, a shipping container converted into a sauna, materials. “Our style is very low-fi. The object’s and Oddfellows, a restaurant and bar-come-event function must never be forgotten in favour of venue that’s opening soon in Toronto. aesthetics. When you think about it, recycling The “design beaver” (castor means “beaver” neon tubes to make a lamp is almost absurd … but in French) is barely two years old, but already check out the end result!” its uncompromising work is bearing fruit. It has The result appeals to connoisseurs of singu- to be said: Brian Richer’s ingenuity takes design lar design who definitely don’t take themselves beyond its traditional scope. “I don’t theorize seriously. Castor’s unique products are already too much about my creative process. I don’t have distributed in Toronto, New York, Miami, and a plan, I just go where the work takes me.” Talk now Amsterdam. Brian is the first to be surprised about a jam session! by Castor Design’s success. “I made the first lamp After working for eight years as a stone for my house ten years ago, and today people are carver, Brian felt like trying something different buying them.” Clearly, the beavers should try to and decided to make a go of the Castor Design come to terms with success, because it doesn’t experience in 2006. “I’d been designing objects seem anywhere close to letting up: Castor Design for myself for a long time, but I’d never marketed has been approached to participate in the next them.” With his confederate, Kei Ng, an architect Venice Biennale. Here’s to drinking to the beavers’ by training and owner of Toronto’s Kei restaurant, success at Oddfellows! Brian dove headfirst into the wonderful world of the do-it-yourselfer, just like the firm’s namesake. CASTOR CASTOR - 42 - - 43 -
  • 23. COMPLEXGEOMETRIES THE COMPLEX LANGUAGE OF CLOTHING THINK TWICE ABOUT WHAT YOU PUT ON! That’s what Clayton Evans proposes with his complexgeometries collection, which invites consumers to look at clothing differently, maybe even interact with it. “BEFORE WEARING A SWEATER FROM THE COLLECTION, YOU SHOULD KNOW HOW TO WEAR IT.” COMPLEXGEOMETRIES COMPLEXGEOMETRIES - 44 - - 45 -
  • 24. Bearing asymmetric and uneven cuts, and details treal’s biosphere is an example). Since then, that go beyond the ordinary, clothing from the Clayton Evans has had a more global vision of complexgeometries collection encourages consu- clothing, which incorporates not only style but also CLAYTON EVANS’ STUDIO IS A LAB WHERE HIS IDEAS ARE EXPERI- MENTED ON CLOTHING. AT THE ROOT OF HIS CREATIONS IS HIS DESIRE TO BALANCE BACKGROUND AND FORM, STYLE AND MEANING. mers to reflect on what they’re wearing. “The meaning. And that’s how complexgeometries pieces are modifiable, so each person can adapt came to be. The collection, which first raised them to their personality.” For the Alberta-born eybrows in Asia and Europe, will hit the Uni- designer, clothing serves a much greater purpose ted States this fall. Complexgeometries offers than just style. “It’s probably the most important men’s and women’s lines, as well as a unisex one. form of nonverbal communication. What you The organic-textured cotton and silk clothing wear and how you wear it speaks volumes of you.” is often created from a single piece of fabric. In 2002, Clayton Evans moved to Montreal, Complexgeometries’ dresses, shirts and tunics following his studies at the Alberta College of all have something unique, as they mirror those Art and Design. Shortly after, he discovered the who don them. “Fashion isn’t static; it changes man who would transform the way he looked and renews itself constantly. My pieces do, too.” at clothing, American architect and visionary With complexgeometries, taking the time Buckminster Fuller (1895-1983, Buckminster Ful- to properly dress yourself can take on a whole ler invented the geodesic dome, of which Mon- new meaning. COMPLEXGEOMETRIES COMPLEXGEOMETRIES - 46 - - 47 -
  • 25. “The only way to survive is by having a personal touch.” “I came to London to enjoy the fantastic quality of life this city has to offer!” jokes Québécois desi- gner Philippe Malouin. A recent graduate of De- sign Academy Eindhoven in the Netherlands, the 25-year-old designer has just opened the doors of his first London studio. “It seems everything gra- vitates to London, whether it be music, fashion, art or design: it’s where trends in the artistic world appear.” Philippe MALOUIN Before London, Philippe Malouin spent his time between Canada, France and the Netherlands. He’s a globe-trotting designer, always seeking to push the boundaries of design “by design”. His hybrid creations, like the Grace Table (an inflatable table), the Hanger Chair or the Monarc Bag, perfectly blend different design schools. A CREATIVE MIX Thus, the highly industrial approach of the Uni- versity of Montreal meets the more classic style of Paris’ École Nationale de Création Industrielle (where he also studied) and the more conceptual, experimental philosophy of Design Academy Eindhoven. A textbook case of design fusion, between industrial and limited edition! Philippe Malouin’s artistic development is closely linked to his personal evolution, with a mix of influences in which François Azambourg (Hermès), Frank Tjepkema (Tjep) and Tom Dixon have equal importance. “At the very beginning, I tried to imitate what the great designers were doing. But I soon learned that, in this profession, the only way to survive is by having a personal touch.” There’s no doubt that today Philippe Malouin truly has a style of his own. The center- piece of his work is the Hanger Chair, a piece that restores the glory of collapsible furniture, the kind you pull out of the closet on nights when special guests drop by. A mix of folding chair and hanger, the Hanger Chair plays a double game: both prac- tical and aesthetically pleasing, it makes you want to invite a crowd over. Time to break out the Hanger Chair! PHILIPPE MALOUIN PHILIPPE MALOUIN - 48 - - 49 -
  • 26. Naked processing methods used by Naked and Famous combine old-school techniques with cutting-edge and technology to produce unique top-quality denim. And Brandon knows the rag trade! His family has been in the Montreal clothing business for Famous three generations, and Naked and Famous is headquartered in the city’s garment district. So it was a longstanding passion that led him to develop unusual fabrics for his premium jeans, like blends of denim and silk, or even denim and DRESSED FOR SUCCESS cashmere, a nearly rigid 21-ounce denim, and many others. For jeans lovers who care about The Naked and Famous logo speaks for itself: a the environment, Naked and Famous has even pop art topless woman purrs at the customer to designed a “green jean” that features organic buy… clothing! But not just any clothing: jeans cotton, natural indigo dye, and green stitching. made from the highest quality denim, imported Naked and Famous, launched in early 2008, from Japan. And Naked and Famous needs no is still young. But the fashion industry from celebrity endorsers to convince us to buy: just try New York to Montreal took note of its arrival, and on a pair and you’ll be sold! it must be said they find its product fascinating: The genius behind Naked and Famous is premium jeans made in Canada at extremely that of Brandon Svarc. This young man’s eyes attractive prices. “At Naked and Famous, we light up behind his dark glasses when he talks don’t spend money on eye candy!” There’s no about denim. “I’m sort of a jeans nerd”, he con- distressing of fabric, no trendy embroideries or fesses jokingly. That’s no surprise, since all his embellishments, nothing superf luous. “Doing jeans use selvedge denim, woven in Japan (for the away with these costly steps means that the cus- uninitiated, the words “selvedge” or “salvage” come tomer pays only the actual cost of a quality jean, from “self-edge” and refer to the denim fabric’s not for an image that basically has nothing to do finished edge. This old-style weaving technique, with the product.” A simple, modern cut that covers which ensures stability and quality, has nearly up the naked bits with the best quality denim disappeared today, replaced by more cost-efficient anywhere: isn’t that what dressing for success is processes). Svarc, a 26-year-old Montrealer, all about? Naked and Famous gets it. And we’re has always been obsessed with excellence. The betting that it won’t take long before you do, too! NAKED AND FAMOUS NOM DE LA SECTION - 50 - - 51 -
  • 27. Mireille Boucher’s world teems the surreal imagery of Hans Ruedi with life! While her organic and Giger, the Swiss artist and designer captivating Harakiri jewellery may whose work appears in the film contain allusions of mortality, it’s Alien. The influence is clearly there. far from death. Instead, each A good bit of imagination is design hints at a mysteriously fan- needed to guess what lurks within tastic back story. There are pieces the detail of a Harakiri piece, such with an austere feel or fascinating as Gothic-influenced necklaces fea- depth, and others brimming with turing a finely worked mouse skull questions—rhetorical, of course! or delicately intertwined bird legs. Harakiri OFTEN INSPIRED BY NATURE, HARAKIRI JEWELLERY A PAEAN TO LIFE HAS A SOMEWHAT SPIRITUAL SIDE. From all appearances, Mireille While Harakiri pieces may have a Boucher wasn’t predestined to hard, skeletal side, they are infused become a jewellery designer. Not with delicacy and softness, a contrast even a little? Well, it’s more that the in the image of their creator. art of jewellery design came to her Mireille’s references to harakiri when she was hardly expecting it. aren’t morbid, but musical (from “A co-worker was wearing a magnif- the Nina Hagen song Atomic Flash icent ring”, Mireille recalls. “I was Deluxe), although she also sees a cer- stunned to learn that she had made tain poetry in the obviously bloody it herself!” This bit of happenstance practice. “In feudal times, it was would lead her far, well beyond believed that the entrails revealed a her jewellery-making studies in person’s true nature. So ritual dis- Montreal. In 2003, Harakiri was embowelment may have been seen born, with an innate predilection as way to profess one’s real feelings.” for out of the ordinary design. “One There is no doubt whatsoever of my first pieces was a little cast as to Mireille’s sincerity. Her genu- bone, embedded with diamonds.” ineness is appreciated and recog- Often inspired by nature, nized by her peers. She worked on Harakiri jewellery has a somewhat designer Denis Gagnon’s recent spiritual side. “There was a rumour shows, and has a thousand and one at one point that my designs were other ideas in mind: “I’m working endowed with certain powers”, the now with moulded resin to create 35-year-old designer says. “I love the high-end pieces, because that’s the idea of jewellery with magical power.” niche I belong in.” Each Harakiri piece is unique, And now with Amsterdam, the and all are fashioned from the finest world is opening up to Mireille materials—like gold or silver—with and Harakiri. A world of dark and brushed, oxidized, or unpolished fin- light, and a world of the contrasts ishes. Mireille’s designs are flowing that coexist so beautifully in her and mechanical, sometimes evoking Harakiri jewellery. HARAKIRI HARAKIRI - 52 - - 53 -
  • 28. Coe & Waito TWO NATURAL WOMEN COE&WAITO COE&WAITO - 54 - - 55 -
  • 29. Coe&Waito is a serenade to nature sung by Coe&Waito was born, featuring aesthetic Alissa Coe and Carly Waito, two young and functional pieces inspired by the natural designers who have united their voices and environment. “Sometimes our point of reference their passion for ceramics and industrial design. is a specific detail from the natural world, With a pure, modern aesthetic and immac- sometimes it is a vague impression or feeling ulate white colour, their whimsical creations we want to create,” the artists explain. The inspire a sense of peace and tranquillity. work is, in essence, a harmonious marriage of Deciding to collaborate was a “natural” industrial design and decorative art, of Alissa’s decision for Alissa and Carly, who met while ingenuity and Carly’s imagination. studying industrial design at the Ontario Japanese and Scandinavian techniques College of Art & Design. “Before we knew inspire their sleek and elegant pieces, which each other, we would find ourselves arriving offer a glimpse of the sublime. Porcelain vases to class, having made eerily similar projects,” with coral-like details mingle with delicate recalls the pair. After falling in love with ceramic pinecones, muted lamps, and a stunning ceramics, these young women dedicated their installation of ethereal jellyfish, which has hearts and souls to working with this “versatile been displayed at numerous Canadian galleries. material that offers infinite possibilities.” “We try to create things that have an element Their partnership did not end with their of preciousness about them, in hopes that they study program. On the contrary, newly will be cherished and saved for a long time.” graduated Alissa and Carly launched their One thing is for sure: the Coe&Waito own collection in 2004. collection will touch you… naturally! COE&WAITO COE&WAITO - 56 - - 57 -
  • 30. SPECIAL THANKS Sid Lee would like to thank: writer Fabienne Vinet And all participating creators: complexgeometries.com teammacho.com castordesign.ca furnicreations.com aquaovo.com kranedesign.com renatamorales.com pearlsbeforeswine.ca philippemalouin.com CONTACT INFORMATION Ateliers: Montreal 75 Queen Street, Suite 1400 Montreal, Quebec H3C 2N6 Canada Phone: +1 514-282-2200 Amsterdam Gerard Doustraat 72 1072 VV Amsterdam The Netherlands Phone: +31 (0) 206 623030 Paris 12 rue du Sentier 75 002 Paris France Phone: +33 (1) 44 88 83 90 Toronto 55 Mill Street Building 5 , Suite 500 Toronto, Ontario M5A 3C4 Canada Phone: +1 416 - 421-4200 Austin Suite D-102 3601 South Congress Austin, Texas 78704 United States Phone: +1 512 - 444-3533 Websites: sidlee.com sidleearchitecture.com jimmylee.tv
  • 31. Another fanzine