This document provides instructions for installing a cavity slider door unit. It discusses the different types of cavity slider units, including standard off-the-shelf units and custom units. It also describes the flush jamb and flush pull styles. The document then outlines the steps to fit a cavity slider unit, including checking frame sizes, leveling the floor, installing the door frame, fitting the door with wheel carriages and guides, installing the jamb and pelmet. Diagrams accompany the text to illustrate the installation process.

1. Installing A
Cavity Slider
By Granny Hunter and Shippy

2. Cavity Sliders
• There are many types of types of cavity sliding units you
can use.
• Standard off the shelf cavity sliders are the most common.
• These units always work for the standard size doors i.e.,
2040 x 820 and 2340 x 820 door.
• They are made to suit 70mm and 90mm framework.
• Two styles are flush jamb and flush pull.
• You can also have custom made cavity sliding units made to
size , style and for different wall finishes.

3. Styles of Cavity
Slider
• Flush jamb - the door will finish completely
inside the cavity pocket and finish flush with
the jamb.
• Flush Pull – the door protrudes from the
cavity pocket approximately 40 mm to allow for
a flush pull handle to be installed.
• You can see how a traditional flush pull handle
would fit on the door when using a flush pull
cavity sliding unit.
• Flush pulls can be installed to a door used in a
flush jamb unit but as you can see a finger pull
is required to the leading edge of the door.

4. Some different
styles of handles
for doors used in
cavity sliding
door units

5. Components

6. Steps for fitting a
Cavity slider.
• Check frame opening size is correct for the
style of cavity slider you will use, i.e., flush
pull or flush jamb as the width of the
opening is wider for a flush jamb unit.
• This should be the same size openings as
per the manufacturer's instruction.
• Check the floor for level at the width of the
unit and pack level as required.
• You can see we required a packer on the
jamb side to keep the unit level.

7. Steps for fitting a cavity
slider, continued
• Temp fix the frame in place to the
stud and flush with frame.
• Using a straight edge to keep the unit
in line with the bottom plate fix the
jamb side through the fixing plate
into the floor.

8. Steps for fitting a cavity
slider continued
• Pack the stile against the stud so the jamb side is straight and plumb.
• Once the unit is plumb and straight fix off the unit to the frame.

9. Steps for fitting a cavity
slider continued
• Firstly, determine the stile that has the
lock block this is usually the stile with
the manufacturer's stickers.
• If the door is a paneled door the smaller/
narrower rail is always put to the top.

10. Steps for fitting a
cavity slider
continued.
• Fit the wheel carriage brackets to
the top of the door to
manufacturers instructions.
• Fit nylon door runners to bottom of
the door to manufacturers
instructions.

11. Steps for fitting a
cavity unit continued
• Check the height adjustment bolts on
both wheel carriages are at the same
measurement and adjust if necessary.
• Slide both wheels into the track.

12. Steps for installing a
cavity slider continued
• Fit the door to the wheel carriages.
• Adjust the door with the adjustment
bolts on the wheel carriage so that the
door is parallel with the plumed Jamb
on the cavity unit.
• Install the nylon door guides so the
door sits in the middle of the cavity unit
pocket.

13. Steps for fitting a cavity
slider continued
• Cut your jamb to length and fit to the
frame.
• Pack the jamb so the leading edge of the
door fits neatly to the jamb.
• Fix the jamb making sure there is no
visible gaps between the leading edge of
the door and the jamb
• With this cavity unit the jamb comes up
past the head as shown.
• For some cavity units the jamb fits under
the head so cutting the top of the jamb to
fit is required, picture show a typical
required cut.

14. Steps for fitting a cavity
slider continued
• Determine which side you need to
remove the door from .
• Cut the pelmet material to length.
• Some carpenters will cut the pelmet
material slightly short on the side the
door will be removed from.
• This so when it is removed after the
painter is finished it doesn’t chip and
crack paint when its removed.
• Fix this side with screws and caps so it is
removable.
• Permanently fix the pelmet on the side
that the door won't be removed from.