1. brings the
EU TO THE ATL
Duringtheweekthatrainceaselesslydrenched
Atlanta in a slow and dismal parade, people
slogged through the streets of Midtown, faces
disgruntled, umbrellas and lapels tightly
clutched. Perhaps I’m gloating a bit, but the
view just behind my cocktail at the corner
of Peachtree and 8th Street was an ample
distraction provided by La Tagliatella. Known
by many as simply “La Tag,” the Italian fine
dining eatery is wildly popular in Spain and
France. Launching its first American flagship
restaurant right here in Atlanta, La Tagliatella
brings its massive European splendor and
success to Midtown.
Upon entrance, the soaked landscape of
Midtown was replaced by the old-world
European stylings of La Tagliatella’s grand
dining area. The masterfully gilded interior
loomed high above, a veritable Romanesque
cathedral of intricately carved wood politely
interrupted by artful Italian chandeliers and
golden adornments that harken back to a time
when eating with family was serious business.
With its oversized portions made from
artisanal ingredients flown in directly by a
supplier in Italy, the ‘eating well with family’
theme is the lynchpin behind La Tagliatella’s
menu. Leaving the dinner choices up to the
courteous management and her talented
chefs, the tour of northern Italy’s cuisine was
officially underway.
A tiny dish of arbequina olives, pits intact,
opened the dining experience (and pairs
especially well with a SKYY vodka martini,
hint hint.) Shortly therein, three types of
breadsticks arrived — one infused with
green olives, one with sautéed onions, and
the final with tomato and herbs, all equally
delicious with a crisp exterior and delicate
center. Better still, the Focacce Liguri, touted
as a “duet of focaccia breads,” is an appetizer
for which diners may makes excuses to ruin
their appetite. The generous portions of bread
(one with chèvre, honey, bresaola, balsamic
reduction glaze, and crushed pistachios,
the other with provaletta cheese, duck ham,
arugula, and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano)
don’t skimp on any of the ingredients,
especially the chèvre, which is particularly
rare around these parts, where it is usually
a hint and not a standout addition. The
continuous depth and lusciousness of the
goat cheese and the enormously palatable
salted beef (bresaola) complement each other
beautifully, and the olive oil, though instantly
recognizable, isn’t over-the-top.
Asignature dish for LaTagliatella, the Insalata
Torre di Pisa (Tower of Pisa salad) comes
“leaning” curiously — and precariously,
honestly — over a bed of mixed greens in
a nod to one of the most famous landmarks
in northern Italy. Comprised of sautéed
eggplant, wafer-thin zucchini, fresh-sliced
tomatoes, and buffalo mozzarella, the layered
beauty is dressed with a black olive paté and
makes for a chilled, refreshing start to a warm
and robust dinner.
Berlin Sylvestre, Staff Writer
Photo by La Tagliatella
Photo by
Heidi Geldhauser
EATS
La Tagliatella
22 : February 14, 2013

2. FENUXE.COM : 23
Then the entrées began to arrive. Excellent.
The Cuore di Zucca, translated “pumpkin
hearts,” is a butternut squash ravioli dish
with impact. Tossed with Pesto Rosso Panna
— a subtle pesto/cream sauce with solé di
Puglia tomatoes, pine nuts, and cheese — the
dish was a beautiful specimen of sweet-on-
savory in an al dente execution. (‘Al dente’
is literally translated ‘to the tooth’ so it made
perfect sense that the kitchen retained some of
the pasta’s firmness during cooking. It sticks
around for wonderful and blissful moment
of licking of one’s teeth after each bite.)
I’ve never had pasta that is made in-house.
Such tedious preparation truly allows for the
pasta to have a complex flavor of its own,
something I could see people sneaking around
the kitchen to eat even before it’s been sauced.
La Tagliatella’s Salume pizza is light, hand-
made, and complete with an egg (sunny-
side up) in the center. Sound strange? Try it
anyway. Diners are encouraged to slice their
own pizza and once the provided pizza cutter
rolls through the egg, each slice is faintly
tinged with the flavors of the smooth, buttery
yolk in a surprising twist on an classic. Topped
with thinly-sliced chorizo, it’s a sumptuous
pie with an irregular shape and unusually tasty
crust that gives away its in-house beginnings.
The silky residue left on my fingers was
further indication that the dough was rolled
and tossed only moments earlier.
The ensuing dessert was a caramel-drizzled
cheesecake with an impossibly thin cake base,
cheesecake center, and custard topping. Losing
myself, I greedily scraped the plate for the last
morsels — it was sinfully luxurious.
La Tagliatella, though a bit on the pricey side,
is worth every cent. A dinner for two — if
said diners are planning on selections from
each course and having cocktails — can reach
the $100 mark fairly easily. (Again, you’re
patronizing an Italian restaurant that knows
its stuff, so $100 is a bargain.) This is a perfect
spot to take someone you’re looking to woo,
so make reservations ASAP. Be aware that
there are two locations — one in Midtown
and one in Emory Point, so if one fills up, try
the other.
The atmosphere, the warm and incredibly helpful
staff, the gorgeous view of Peachtree, and (most
importantly) the impeccable dishes make La
Tagliatella a certain success and a welcome
presence in Atlanta.
La Tagliatella
919 Peachtree St. NE
Atlanta, Ga. 30309
(678) 608-3188
1540 Avenue Place Suite B-280
Atlanta, Ga. 30329
(678) 608-4210
LaTagliatella.us
Bellissima!
Photos by La Tagliatella