Full sleeve trend

1. FULL SLEEVE TREND
Narrative story
by
Anna, Shannon, Alicia, Jane

2. The Bell sleeve

3. Leg of Mutton sleeve (Gigot sleeve)

4. Bishop sleeve

5. Bell sleeve
• Bell sleeves first made their way into fashion in the medieval period, but were only worn by
the clergy men, for their religious robes. They wore a long robe called a Chasuble, which
included long, wide Bell sleeves, that arched on both sides.
• In the1500’s, the religious connotations of the sleeve had disappeared and the upper classes,
and royalty adopted the sleeve, adding embellishment. This helped to add flair to the sleeve,
therefore showing wealth and status. In their eyes, “the bigger the better.”
• This trend was adapted from a religious garment by the French nobility, with Anne of Brittany,
being a fashionable wearer of this trend.
• From then, the trend moved to England in the Elizabethan era. Here they added frills, lace,
and pleats to the sleeve, resulting in The billowing Bell sleeve. This look highlighted wealth,
and the ability to afford high fashion. However, it was highly impractical, so the working class
couldn’t wear this look. They wore smooth, fitted sleeves, which were sensible to work and
move in.

6. ◦ After the medieval period, Bell sleeves fell out of high fashion until the 1960’s and 70’s
introduced loose fitting, hippie style clothing.
◦ Tops with loose fitting Bell sleeves were often cut from cotton, and hung from the body, giving
a more casual look. Sleeves were often embellished with lace.
◦ Stevie Nicks made this style famous in the 1970, with designers including Caroline Constas
referencing the style today, however adapting them for the modern wearer.
◦

7. Leg of Mutton sleeves
• This sleeve style became popular in 1825 to1833. However, when Queen Victoria ascended to
the throne in 1837, the style slightly fell out of fashion in favour of a more subdued style.
• In the 1820s, Gigot sleeves were viewed as a sign of beauty and wealth. This ideal was inspired
by the Romantic Movement and was thought to create the image that a woman was pining for
her lover. With this look, a soft look was created, and one that flattered the silhouette of an
upper class women.
• The style of sleeve fell out of fashion after the 1830’s, however, remerged with great
extravagance in the 1890’s and early 1900’s, towards the end of the Victorian period.
• Again deigned for the upper and middle class, this adaption of the sleeve saw the sleeve sat on
the shoulder and not dropped slightly. The large sleeves gave the idea of a thinner waist, as the
waist was brought in to create more of an hourglass figure.
• Sleeves kept getting larger and larger, with more padding being added, until 1899, where a
small puff on the shoulder was the new fashionable, more feminine style.

8. • Balenciaga design shot by Irvine Penn

9. Bishop sleeve
• Unlike the Bell Sleeve and Gigot full sleeves, the Bishop full sleeve has worn by the middle
and working class, and wasn’t seen as a high fashion style of clothing, but more of a practical
women’s fashion style.
• Came from Priest’s traditional clothing.
• This sleeve style ha a slight cross over with the Gigot Sleeve, as this style was made available
during the American Civil War, during the years 1861 – 1865. Women would wear these
practical dresses, as the sleeves were easier to roll up and wouldn’t get in the way of work.
• These sleeves were then made fashionable for the higher classes during the 1930’s, with a
higher quality material like silk, giving the suggestion of glamour and sophistication for
women.
• Became fashionable in the 60’s again with more of a looser look.

10. ◦ In todays fashion, a strong emphasis on sleeves can be seen, through design. Dramatic shapes and
fresh details are used, making the arms a key focal point providing edge and interest.
◦ Through the years, sleeves have had many memorable moments in fashion and have been recycled
over different decades, giving classic looks a new innovative twist whilst still staying true to the
original styles and intentions of the eras statements.
◦ Such designs include the Bishop, leg of mutton and bell sleeves.
Full sleeves in present fashion

11. Bell Sleeves
◦ It is believed that trends are recycled almost every thirty
years or so, therefore it is not uncommon for the original
idea to be warped and updated through the ages.
◦ As has the trend of bell sleeves, being part of fashion for
centuries, (dating back to the Heian period in Japan), and
the medieval era, bell sleeves have evolved most notably
in the 60’s & 70’s, and currently the trend is soaring on the
high street with a more refined look, though its
contemporary elements still reside within the trend (fitted
on the shoulder and flaring out wide toward the wrist), the
bell sleeve is the same, yet totally different. Leaving the
bohemian look in the 70’s and instead becoming a chic
modern necessity. Ranging styles from sleek dresses to
cool tops and even quirky knits.

12. Leg of Mutton
◦ In todays fashion, ‘street style’ has become increasingly
popular and within this trend shirts with dramatic
shoulders and sleeves have come into play. One style
being the ‘ leg of mutton’, which is when the silhouettes
are voluminous at the top of the sleeve and are cuffed at
the wrists.
◦ The trend which began again in the Victorian era, was
extremely popular during the 80’s and has become a
trend in todays fashion following the more oversized,
gender loose street style.

13. Bishop Sleeves
◦ Although the bell sleeves give a chic look, the
bishop sleeve allows a more soft and feminine
shape. Most commonly spotted on
dresses,(notably for the Victorian era) bishop
sleeves compliment the outfits to which they
belong while remaining a standout feature in
their own right.
◦ The style balloons out toward the lower arm
before gathering into a cuff at the wrist, and
works best with lighter, sheer fabrics. The
modern take on the bishop sleeve is to use the
loose sleeve design with sharp contrasting
aspects to garments and clean fabrics to keep the
modern take more tailored.

14. ◦ One of A/W17’s biggest trends is the statement
sleeve, from all past inspirations, these eye
catching designs come in many different
materializations to suit everyone's taste. From
balloon sleeves showcased at Gucci, Balenciaga's
80’s inspired ruched sleeves, to basic high street
stores, everyone is embracing the statement
sleeve trend and surly will for years to come.
Statement full Sleeves

15. The future of full sleeves

16. Bell Sleeves
The bell sleeve is a design detail which can
straddle the line between commercial and
directional. The degrees of volume will
allow for the end-consumer to experiment
with the look or buy into it
wholeheartedly.
Throughout both Spring / Summer and
Autumn / Winter of 2018 / 2019 the bell
sleeve is forecast to feature on many
different garments, including swimwear,
loungewear, denim, outwear and knitwear.
 Dresses and loungewear pieces are going to be slouchy with a relaxed fit.
 On denim pieces, bell sleeves will be featured on blazers and paired with mini skirts for a
feminine look.
 Designers play with new proportions and details on woven shirts and tops, placing
emphasis on shoulders and sleeve detailing. Bell sleeves define lines on sculpted, modern
silhouettes, which refer to the past while maintaining a futuristic outlook.
 For Knitwear, bell-shaped and extensive flare sleeves ranging from bracelet-length to
extra-long provide an element of newness for roll-neck and crew-neck shapes. Offering a
more feminine update to popular slouchy boyfriend fits, bell-shaped sleeves add
considered volume, with dropped shoulders enhancing the relaxed feel.
 Using a bell sleeve on a swimsuit creates a dramatic fashion statement.
 Exaggerated bell sleeves will be a detailed addition to the shearling jacket to further its
fresh appeal.

17. Leg O’ Mutton Sleeves
Similarly to the bell sleeve, we can expect to see the Leg O’
Mutton Sleeve continuing to make an appearance on a
variety of different garments, including knitwear, occasion
dresses, woven tops and denim throughout Spring /
Summer and Autumn / Winter 2018.
In the UK and the US it has been
forecast that Denim pieces are going to
evolve into an older historical direction
where the leg O’ mutton sleeve will be
paired with statement frills and ruffles.
In China extreme details are going to be added
to sleeves to really emphasise the shoulders,
and leg O’ Mutton sleeves will be used in crisp
cotton, linen and silk chiffon in order to keep
their voluminous draped shape.
 For occasion wear, leg-o-mutton sleeves remain
key, with this season’s move-on introducing
materials such as opulent silk and lace.
 Knitwear pieces which have a leg o’ mutton sleeve
shape will be pulled into a deep cuff and have a
slightly dropped shoulder. This will add volume to
the shape whilst keeping it sleek and minimalistic.
 Leg-o-mutton sleeves featured on woven tops
reference the past, yet feel acutely modern
through the use of simple crew necklines.

18. Bishop Sleeves
In the foreseeable future, for Autumn /
Winter 2018 /2019, bishop sleeves are
coming through as an important
update. In particular, we can expect to
see Bishop Sleeves becoming a more
heightened detail on the soft-volume
midi dress.
“Dresses with feature sleeves
increased by 223% YOY in the UK,
according to WGSN INstock data for
A/W 17/18 vs A/W 16/17 – a clear
sign that experimentation with sleeve
design remains a key consideration.”
(WGSN, 2017)
This is a simple and familiar shape
with subtle 1970s connotations, and it
has a feminine undertone without
being too fussy and girly.

19. ◦ AW18/19 Bishop sleeve popularity will rise
223% in dresses found by WGSN in stock data
compared to AW16/17
◦ Bishop sleeves are also in the rise for fit and
flare tops as they will give it a feminine
undertone without being too girly.
◦ Both solid colours and prints such as florals
and checks are also still popular and as the
Bishop sleeve is more simplistic looking this
will allow for experimentation when designing
new on trend garments.