Fawaz Gruosi founded de Grisogono in 1993 after discovering a diamond in the rough in Florence, Italy. He chose the name de Grisogono because it sounded powerful and aristocratic, fitting for the luxury brand he aimed to create. While many thought it was a risk, Gruosi's dedication to innovation and perfection, as well as his restless spirit, have led to de Grisogono's success over 22 years. The brand stands out through its precious, bold, and innovative designs, often pioneering the use of uncommon materials like black diamonds and icy diamonds. Gruosi draws inspiration from everything around him and strives to unleash his creativity.

1. 119118BEJEWELLED
BLACK
DIAMONDS
Rarely do you ever come across something distinctive. And when you
do, you must nurture and polish it till it is truly, precious and one-of-a-
kind. That gem is de Grisogono. Father of the brand, Mr Fawaz Gruosi
discovered a diamond in the rough and made it a crown jewel.
How did the brand get its name?
When I founded de Grisogono in 1993, along with two associates,
we were based in the Rue du Rhône, Geneva. The first challenge
I was faced with finding a suitable name for the brand, as it had
to be an Italian name. One of my partner’s mother had originally
been the Marquise de Grisogono. When I heard the name, I liked it
because it sounded powerful, mysterious and aristocratic—perfect
for the luxury and exclusivity that we were planning for the brand.
We decided to go with it and the rest, as they say is history.
How has the journey been ever since?
Well, people always called me crazy, right from the beginning.
And when I decided to take over sole ownership of de Grisogono
in 1995, they were proven right, in some way. Embarking on
the capital-intensive business with a whole new vision and an
innovative idea was indeed a considerable risk. But I saw the
potential of jewellery becoming an exciting part of women’s
lives also the creative possibilities of gemstones, especially the
neglected ones. I started the first chapter for de Grisogono. I
was just lucky it became an instant success. It has been 22 years
of creating something fabulous—the art of continually coming
up with the unexpected, appealing, original and fresh.
And to what would you owe the brand’s success today?
Dedication, innovation, a constant strive for perfection and a
passion for the art of jewellery and watchmaking—that’s the secret
behind de Grisogono’s success. My personality also had some role
to play in the making of the brand. I’m a restless spirit—my job
FAWAZ GRUOSI,
FOUNDER &
DESIGNER, DE
GRISOGONO
By
DESSIDRE FLEMING
I
t all began in the picturesque town of Florence, Italy,
when an 18-year-old boy with a vision and an urge to be
different, was job-hunting. Little did he know that what
started out as selling jewellery and cleaning vitrines at a
Florentine store would lead to establishing one of the most
extravagant jewellery and watch labels of the world. Mr Fawaz
Gruosi, president, owner and founder, de Grisogono, has come
full circle. But what he learnt along the way was that, at a time
when contemporary fashion was on the verge of a breakout, the
jewellery and horlogerie industry was still holding onto age-old
conventions that inhibited creativity. With a desire to inspire
change and take the road less travelled, Mr Gruosi established a
brand, in 1993 that would one day, be synonymous with haute
couture!
L’Officiel India found a method to madness in an intimate chat
with the el supremo of design on exploring unchartered territory
in jewellery and horlogerie and being a true maverick.
Tell us about the time you spent in Florence, Italy.
I spent most of my childhood there, growing up with my mother
who was Italian. I was breathing art and beauty every day because
the city is rich in culture and aesthetics. I have been deeply
influenced by the Renaissance period and the works of Italian
masters. This, combined with my experience from my first job at
a jewellery store, has made me the designer I am today. I think,
it was the level of craftsmanship that I witnessed in Florence. It
was second to none!

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M AV E R I C K ’ S M U S I N G S
On Black Diamonds
I had been fascinated by the story of the historic Black
Orlov, a colossal black diamond. So I began researching
on these enigmatic, dark-hearted stones that were
rejected by the industry, and extremely challenging
to cut. I found them captivating—darkly dangerous,
glinting, mirror-like, with a mesmerising mix of light
and shadow. And in 1996, I launched a collection
devoted to the black diamond. It was perfectly timed at a
moment of monochrome minimalism. This started the
trend for black diamonds which continues until today.
The famed de Grisogono Setting
We use special and uniquely dense settings for our
creations which form a continuous surface of different-
sized stones, closely fitted together. Our pavé settings are
made up of lots of small gemstones and set very closely
together, so hardly any of the underlying metal shows.
The stones are held in place by little beads crafted from
the setting metal. The result is a neverending cluster
of stones that look like they stem from one another,
without any discontinuity.
is also my hobby and I’m always working. My ultimate goal has
been to serve the highest standards to my clientele and I expect
the same level of drive and dedication from the people with me.
I’ve trusted my intuition and I refuse to get swayed. It is something
that has gotten the brand to where it is now.
How does de Grisogono stand out from other jewellery and
watchmaking houses, like Cartier or Bulgari?
I would describe our pieces in three words—precious, bold and
innovative. From the beginning, I have enjoyed defying traditional
rules and challenging the norms of conventional jewellery and
watchmaking. I’m not a trend-follower. We were the first to use
black diamonds and perfected our expertise with these gems,
making them a commercial hit. Innovation was repeated, once
again, with the unveiling of our first Icy Diamonds creation in
early 2000s. I was drawn to the frosty yet soft glow and misty
opalescence of opaque diamonds that were, otherwise, considered
imperfect according to industry standards. We followed that up
with the launch of our distinctive Browny Brown gold, a warm
and glossy hi-tech honey-coloured gold, as well as the use of
rather unlikely materials like nano-ceramics, woven steel mesh
and, most recently the quintessentially de Grisogono Galuchat
(stingray) watch bracelets. So, you see, I thrive on a fresh approach
to this industry. As for the other brands, I don’t look at what
they do. I even avoid looking at showcases in other stores and
advertisements in magazines!
So, tell me, what inspires you?
Inspiration comes from whatever surrounds me. It could be
a lamp, chair, painting or just the way the light
reflects in a beautiful woman’s hair—anything
really. For the Meccanico de Grisogono timepiece,
I was inspired while driving through the Times
Square. With regard to colours, I have always
been inspired by nature, who offers us so many
different shades. My creative process starts with an
idea in my head which I then put to paper. Once I
have the design, I start looking for the right gems
that will suit the creation. To me every stone is
precious because it is unique because of its very
nature. I like to unleash my creativity and make
my dreams come true.
Where do the precious materials for your
jewellery and watches come from?
We source from all over the world—from Brazil to Africa; from
Antwerp to India. We also get our diamonds from Mumbai.
Any expansion plans within India?
For India, we are looking at re-entering the market with a
renewed offer of exceptionally well-crafted jewellery and
timepieces. This will be possible thanks to a new partner in
Mumbai, Time Avenue. As for the rest of the country, we are
in advanced discussions with a few other potential partners in
New Delhi and other metros.