Cosmetics (colours stability tests)

PHARMACEUTICS II
SEMESTERV
MS.NISHA KALAYIL, PHARMACEUTICS, SJIPR

MS.NISHA KALAYIL, PHARMACEUTICS, SJIPR

 A desire to buy a cosmetics product is controlled by 3 senses: sight, touch and
smell.
 Colour is an important ingredient of cosmetic preparations.
 Many terms are used by Pigment chemist to describe.
MS.NISHA KALAYIL, PHARMACEUTICS, SJIPR 3

 Pigments: white or coloured chemical compound, insoluble in a particular solvent.
Example :Toluidine Red Toner- Pigment in context with water and
dye in context with organic solvents
 Dye : chemical compound of coal tar origin, soluble in vehicle, either water soluble
dyes or oil soluble dyes.
 Lake : organic pigment prepared by precipitating a soluble dye, on either a
reactive or absorptive substratum/ diluent.
 Toner : organic pigment without substratum/diluent.

Colour- a visual sensation caused by a definite wavelength or a group of wavelengths by an
object by one or more phenomena of emission, reflection, refraction or transmission.
Visually colour can change in 3 ways.
According to Munsell’s nomenclature: Hue, Value and Chroma
 Hue :
Colour can be
distinguished by its
Hue.
Tells whether a colour is
red, yellow, green etc.
 Value :
Distinguishing light
colour from dark ones.
Indicates how much
energy strikes the eye.
 Chroma :
Tells the intensity of the colour.
A strong colour can be
distinguished by weaker one.

 BLEED:
Solubilities in the order of 0.0001% are regarded as insoluble.
But sometimes the pigment imparts colour to the solvent.This is called as bleeding.
Determination:
- Pigment is shaken in with a particular solvent in a test tube and the solvent is
filtered.
- The colour of the filtrate is compared with that of the solvent
- If the colour change is noticeable its termed as Bleeding.
- Slight bleed
- Non-bleed
- Colloidal bleed (clear coloured solution v/s turbid coloured solution)

 Masstone, undertone and reduction are used to describe /compare visually.
Determination:
- Pigments are grounded in oil, wax – to compare colours these are smeared on a
piece of white paper – 1st a thick layer is formed followed by thin layer of coloured
smear.
- Appearance of thick film regardless of background is called Masstone / Toptone.
- Thin film is undertone . Also referred as skin tone/ print tone.
- Grounded samples when mixed with white pigment (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide)
and observed on white paper the results are described as reduction, strength, tint.

NATURAL
• COCHINEAL
• SAFFRON
• CHLOROPHYLL
INORGANI
C
• IRON OXIDES
• CHROMIUM OXIDES
• ULTRAMARINES
• CARBON BLACK
• TITANIUM OXIDE
• ZINC OXIDE
• ALUMINIUM
HYDRATE
COAL TAR
• SCHEDULE Q
• REGULATIONS
COLOURS

1. Cochineal:
• Red dye stuff – dried
bodies of female insects
coccus cacti – lives on a
species of cactus.
• Cochineal contains 10%of
the colour. Carminic acid
is extracted from
grounded insects –
carminic acid is an
antraquinone type dye.
• Heated – darkens at 130°C
and crabonized at 250°C.
• Prepared by extracting
cochineal with water and
precipitating Al salts of
carminic acid with alum.
2. Saffron:
• Dried sigma of flowers,
Cross Sativus Linne,
perennial plant, Kashmir.
• Also cultivated in Spain,
Greece & Iran.
• Principle colouring agent
is Crocin, a glycoside.
• Crocin is yellow powder –
soluble in water - costly
3. Chlorophyll:
• Abundantly in nature.
• Green colour to leaves.
• Green pigment - acts as
catalyst for
photosynthesis.
• Can be extracted from
plant leaves.

1. Iron oxide:
• Natural iron oxides –
difficult in purification.
• Manufactured under strict
control.
• Commercial use generally
manufactured from iron
scraps. Not for cosmetic
products – contains
prohibitive quantities of
arsenic.
• Iron scraps of controlled
purity is used.
• Shades from light lemon
yellow to orange.
• Hydrated iron oxide is
precipitated from iron salt
by adding alkali and
subjected to oxidation.
2. Ultramines:
• Raw materials + S + soda
ash + china + clay +
charcoal pitch + rosin
 heated in muffle
furnace at 850°C for 24
hrs.
• Proportions of raw
materials – blue (low
silica type) & pink (high)
shades.
• Cooled slowly, washed &
purified.
• Pb: 20ppm, Ar : 2ppm
• Mascara & eye brow
pencils.
3. Titanium dioxide:
• Occurs in nature in 3
different crystalline forms
(anatose, brookite, rutile)
• Has high RI, fine particle
size.
• All types of cosmetics –
inertness.
4. Zinc oxide:
• White pigment.
• 0.12 – 5 microns.
• High brightness – low
tinting strength .
• Face powders.

 Rule 144 D&C Rules prohibits use of coal tar colours other than specified under
Schedule Q.
 Schedule Q colours should not contain:
- 2 ppm Ar calculated as arsenic trioxide
- 20 ppm Pb calculated as lead
- 100 ppm heavy metals calculated as the total of the respective metals
 Schedule Q has 2 parts: I - Coal tar colours to be used in cosmetics other than soap.
II - Coal tar colours which can be used in soap.

1. Guinea Green B
2. Tartrazine
3. Sunset yellow FCF
4. Ponceau 3R
5. Erythrosine
6. Brilliant blue FCF
7. Acid Fast Green
8. Lake Red D
9. Bluish Orange TR
10. Alizarin Astrol B
1. Phthalocyanine Blue
2. Citrus Red No. 2
3. Aq. Green Paste
4. Monolite Red 4R
5. Solvent Red 24
6. Pigment Yellow 3
7. Citrus Red 3

PHARMACEUTICS II CBCS 13
OILS
WAXES
FATS
• Triglycerides
have
unsaturated
fatty acids
1. Vegetable Oils:
Almond,
Arachis, Castor,
Olive, Coconut,
Jojoba oil.
2. Mineral oils:
Light & Heavy
liquid paraffin.
• Base of many
cosmetics e.g.
lipsticks
1. Bees wax
2. Spermaceti
3. Paraffin wax
4. Ceresin &
Ozokerite wax
5. Microcrystallin
e wax
6. Carnauba wax
• Saturated fatty
acid glycerides.
1. Fatty acids
2. Fatty alcohols
3. Fatty acid
esters
4. Lanolin & its
derivatives
5. Soft paraffins

 Surface active agents lowers boundary tensions at interface in the
system, stabilizes interfaces by formation of absorbed layer.
 5 main uses: detergency, wetting, foaming, emulsification,
solubilisation.
 Surfactants are amphipathic molecules.The hydrophobic &
hydrophilic part contributes to its adsorption at interfaces.
 Classification is based on physical properties, chemical structure or
uses.

Anionic Surfactants
 Negatively charged in the solution.
 Commonest e.g. Sodium Oleate
 Classification :
1. Anionic groups connected directly to
hydrophobic unit (fatty acid soaps,
alkyl sulphates, alkyl sulphonates)
2. Connected through ester links
(monoglyceride sulphates)
3. Through ether links (alkyl ether
sulphates)
4. Through amide links (alkanolamide
sulphates)
5. Through amidine links (imidazole
sulphates)
Cationic Surfactants
 Positively charged in the solution.
 Classification:
1. Nitrogenous Surfactants (alkyl
trimethyl ammonium salts, alkyl
pyridium salts. Quaternized
diamine salts)
2. Non-nitrogenous surfactants
(sulphonium salts, phosphonium
salts)

Non-ionic Surfactants
 Part of molecule is made up of
multiple uncharged polar groups.
 Classified based on chemical nature:
1. Alkanolamides (fatty acid
alkanolamide)
2. Polyethylene Glycol derivatives
(alkyl polyglycol ether, thioethers)
3. Polyethyleneimine derivatives
(alkyl polyethyleneimine)
Ampholytic surfactants
 Able to form a surface active agent
with both –ve & +ve charges.
 Classified based on chemical nature:
1. Alkylamino acids (betains)
2. Acylamino acids (acyl peptides)
3. Alkylimidazolines

 Rise of concentration of surfactant
leads to rise in the effect of
interfacial tension / electrical
conductivity.
 The concentration at which this
discontinuity occurs is called as CMC
 As surface tension falls wetting &
foaming properties are increased.
 All surface active agents above CM
have some solubilising properties.
1. Emulsifying agents
2. Foaming & cleansing agents
3. Wetting agents
4. Solubilization
Page no: 102 - 110

 Prevents the spoilage of cosmetic products.
 2 main reasons for spoilage of cosmetics: oxidation of oils& fats , microbial growth.
1. Antimicobial agents
2. Antioxidants

 Defects caused by microbes??????
 Examples of antimicrobial agents:
1. Organic acids (benzoic acids, salicylic acid)
2. Alcohols (ethyl ROH, IPA)
3. Aldehydes (formladehyde)
4. Phenolic compounds (cresol, phenol)
5. Esters (methyl p-hydroxy benzoate)
6. Mercury compounds (phenyl mercuric salts, thiomersol)
7. Surface active agents (benzalkonium chloride)
8. Miscellaneous compounds (vanillin, disulphide)

1. Compatible with formulation
2. Soluble to effective concentration
3. Remain stable providing sustainable effect
4. Colourless and odourless
5. Non-toxic, non-irritant / non- allergic.

 Dissociation & pH
 Concentration
 Susceptibility of organisms
 Interference by ingredients of cosmetics
 Influence of solid particles.

 Fats and oils which have unsaturated linkage are prone to oxidative deterioration.
 Rancidity is the term w.r.t. Oils and fats.
 Natural antioxidants (tocopherol) are destroyed during refining.
 Factors affecting rancidity:
1. Presence of pro-oxidants(oxidase)
2. Oxygen
3. Moisture
4. Light
5. Heat
6. External pro-oxidants (metals, alloys, organic compounds)
7. Micro-organisms

Phenolic type
1. Gallic acid
2. Methyl gallate
3. Ethyl gallate
4. Amyl gallate
5. Propyl gallate
Quinone type
1. Tocopherols
2. Hydroxy
chromans
3. Wheat germ oil
solvent extract
Amine type
1. Ethanolamine
2. Lecithin
3. Purines
4. Glutamic acid
5. Kaphalin
Organic acids,
alcohols and esters
1. Ascorbic acid
2. Iso ascorbic acid
3. Oxalic acid
4. Citric acid
5. Sorbitol

 The nature of fats/waxes present as ingredients in cosmetics
 The physical form of cosmetic
 pH of cosmetics
 Intended use of cosmetic
 Expected shelf life
 Storage conditions.
 Antioxidants used in aqueous system include sodium metabisulphate, sodium
thiosulphate.
 Non – aqueous system include hydroquinone, lecithin.
Page no: 89-96

 Perfumes are important raw material for manufacturing of perfumes.
 Perfumery is an industry itself.
 Floral composition and specialities are often used in the perfume formulation.
 Steps for compounding perfumes:
1. Selection of raw materials
2. Selection of floral composition & specialities
3. Dosification of all aromatics of variable strength.
4. Addition of floral absolute
5. Dosification of tinctures.
 Perfume was discovered by mistake in 1918 when a perfumer used 10% of fatty
aldehydes instead of 1%

Base Notes
 Time they remain fragrant
on the skin before they
fade away.
 Banzoin, peru balsam, tolu
balsam: overwhelming
smell.
 Base note last longest and
make other notes also
prolong with slow
evaporation.
 FIXATION (3)
Middle / Heart Notes
 Floral essences.
 Give body to blends
giving warmth & fullness.
 Light/spicy/green/rosy/na
rcotic/fruity/precious
middle notes
 Rose, Chammomile,
Jasmine,Lavender
Top Notes
 Sharp, penetrative , hot /
cold.
 Lends definition to the
perfumes
 When you smell a perfume
from a bottle you
encounter top notes 1st.
 Grape fruit, nutmeg, black
pepper, lavender
Accessory Notes: ginger, cognac, patchouli. Pronounce smell only when added also
interact unpredictably.

Florals
• Dominance of
floral essences
• Green,Ambery,
Fresh
Orientals
• Heaviest &
oldest perfume
• Spicy, resins &
exotic flowers
Chypres
• Bergamot &
oakmoss smell
contrast
Green
• Meadows,
green grass,
leaves
Citrus
• Orange, lemon,
herbal, spicy
Classification

1. Stability of base formula & its testing :
 General preservation test:
- Temperature preservation test (parameters: external appearance,
fragrance change, physiochemical properties)
- Photo stability test (outdoor, inside, florescent light exposure test)
 General performance and effectiveness tests: skin care (change in
texture, lasting quality, changes in adhesion); nails (adhesion,
lustre, drying speed, color ability, water & oil resistance); hair
(setting & weaving ability, lustre)

 Aerosol stability tests: concentrate & propellant,mutual solubilities,changes
on spraying,blockage of nozzle, leaks), corrosion test, leakage & blockage
test
 Accelerated stability test: temperature – humidity combination,cyclical
temperature , stress (centrifugal seperation+vibration+drop+load+ friction
test).
2. STABILITY OF FUNCTIONAL AGENTS (Accelerated stability studies)
3. STABILITY OF MASS PRODUCED COSMETICS (variation of
manufacturing conditions,filling conditions, quantity produced)
4. STABILITY BASED ON USAGE ENVIRONMENT (soaps & cleansers,
sunscreens, Aerosols, cosmetics containing strong solvents, hair colouring
pdts.)

Cosmetics (colours stability tests)

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