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BEYOND GASTRONOMY & TOURISM
This document discusses the relationship between food, culture, tourism, and health from various perspectives. It begins by outlining how food and gastronomy have successfully intersected with tourism. It then examines how food shapes cultural identities and is influenced by various social and cultural diffusion models. The document also explores the patrimonialization of food and its recognition as intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO. Finally, it considers the relationship between food cultures, tourism, and health, as well as perspectives on feeding the global population sustainably while preserving the environment.
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BEYOND GASTRONOMY & TOURISM
- 1. Beyond Gastronomy & Tourism Food,Cultures, Identities and Health Prof. Jean Pierre Poulain Chair of « Food Studies » Université de Toulouse, France Taylor’s University, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Co-director of LIA-CNRS « Food, Cultures and Health »
- 5. Plan • Food, Gastronomyand Tourism a successful encounter. • Food, Cultures & Identities • Food, Cultures and Health (of the human beings and of the planet)
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- 7. Topics Google ScholarCitations First titles Food tourism 505000 8440 643 Hall, C. M., Sharples, L., Mitchell, R., Macionis, N., & Cambourne, B. (Eds.). (2004). Food tourism around the world. Routledge Gastronomy tourism 94500 1910 719 Hjalager, A. M., & Richards, G. (Eds.). (2003). Tourism and gastronomy. Routledge. Gastronomic tourism 105000 3650 719 Hall, C. M., & Mitchell, R. (2007). Gastronomic tourism: Comparing food and wine tourism experiences. In Niche tourism(pp. 87-102). Routledge. Culinary tourism 262000 7000 909 Long, L. M. (2013). Culinary tourism. In Encyclopedia of food and agricultural ethics (pp. 1-8). Springer Netherlands. Gourmet tourism 12900 390 Total 979400 21390 Food & Tourism as an established topics
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- 10. Food particularities willchange social status… To become a means to get into contact with the culture of others and, therefore, to become one of the sharpest interests of the desire to travel » Léo Moulin, L’Europe à Table, 1975
- 11. Tourism Studies Food Studies Articulation of both fields •Gastronomic tourism • Oenological tourism • Food souvenir market • Restaurant design and engineering • Innovation and tradition Impact of tourism On Food market • The role of legitimacy of tourist on food heritage • Valorization of food heritage by tourism • Geographical indications • Impact of food on tourism activity • Food as a part of the identity of a region • inter-cultural issues of food and tourism • Food as an entry in the visited cultures And also • Food crisis management • Food safety Jean-Pierre Poulain
- 12. Food and tourism 4centers of gravity to thinks the relation between Food and tourism: – Tourism phenomenon, – Agro-food chain, – Economy of the territories, – Interactions between populations. Tourism Territoires Populations Food production
- 13. Tourism & Folklore Localcultures Academic world Cultural studies & Food studies Nouvelle Cuisine Patrimonialization & Gastronomisation 1800 1960 1975 2003 Articulation Food studies
- 14. The first allianceof tourism with gastronomy • 1900, Michelin guide • 1920, «Inventory of French gastronomic treasure» by Austin de Croze and Curnonsky • 1950, Le salons des arts ménagers 14
- 15. Les cultural studies: Richard Hoggart • The use of literacy: Aspects of Working- Class Life Opposes the culture of elites and cultures of the working class • Centre for Contemporary Cultural Studies (CCCS), in 1964 at the University of Birmingham. A comprehensive ethnography of popular class culture … • Get out of the invisibility and legitimize the culture of the poors
- 16. Food in theacademic world • Food gradually takes a place in the field of scholarly culture • Ethnologie – Claude Levi-Strass, – Mary Douglas, – Georges Condominas, – Jacques Goody – …. • Sociologie – Léo Moulin, – Claude Fischler, – Stephen Mennel, – Jean Pierre Corbeau, – Jean Pierre Poulain – … 16
- 17. Food cultures "The dietis a vital element of the social space by the central position it occupies in the production system from which it controls the technology and economy of a group » (Condominas, 1980, 32).
- 18. Jean-Pierre Poulain 1974, nouvellecuisine and the compelling of creativity • Before nouvelle cuisine The ambition of a chef was to be a good interpreter of the master’s works of the 19th century ; the golden age of gastronomy • Nouvelle cuisine promote the idea of a dual gastronomic heritage: • the haute cuisine and table manners of the elite and • the local, regional food cultures founded on popular tradition. • After nouvelle cuisine Chefs have to be creative But how to go about it ?
- 19. JP Poulain CETIA-ERITAUTM The articulation of the three movements • Léo Moulin, L’Europe à table, 1974 • 1984, début des inventaires régionaux : Ethno-cuisine, Itinéraires gourmands, CNAC • Sites remarquables du goût • 2006, « Les cultures culinaires de l’Europe »
- 20. JP Poulain CETIA-ERITAUTM From nouvelle cuisine to local gastronomies We then shift from French inspired international cuisine to truly local gastronomies
- 21. The gastronomisation • "...a phenomenon that consists in designating local culinary cultures as gastronomies, is much more than a patrimonialization. It is a reversal of hierarchical perspective of two food universes in opposition. • Thus thanks to the connection between local cuisines and learned cuisines could emerge everywhere in the world of "local gastronomy". • The emergence of leading chefs all over the world is a positive consequence of "nouvelle cuisine".
- 22. The legitamtion ofUNESCO 16 novembre 1972
- 23. World Heritage Convention,1972 Culturel Naturel Mixte Total % Afrique 47 35 4 86 8,9 % États arabes 67 4 2 73 7,6 % Asie et Pacifique 148 55 10 213 22,1 % Europe et Amérique du Nord 393 59 10 462 48 % Amérique latine et Caraïbes 90 35 3 128 13,3 % Total 745 188 29 962 100%
- 25. From « tangible» to « intangible heritage » • In 1993, debate on authenticity of Ise sanctuary (伊勢神宮, Japan) • In 2003, a new convention to protect world’s “intangible heritage”. 伊勢神宮
- 26. “Intangible cultural heritage”:Definition “ICH” means the practices, representations, expressions, knowledge, skills – as well as the instruments, objects, artefacts and cultural spaces associated therewith – that communities, groups and, in some cases, individuals recognize as part of their cultural heritage. “ICH”, transmitted from generation to generation, is constantly recreated by communities and groups in response to their environment, their interaction with nature and their history, and provides them with a sense of identity and continuity, thus promoting respect for cultural diversity and human creativity….
- 27. Alba (Italy) Belém (Brazil) Bergen(Norway) Buenaventura (Columbia) Burgos (Spain) Chengdu (China) Cochabamba (Bolivia) Dénia (Spain) Ensenada (US) Florianopolis (Brazil) Gaziantep (Turkey) Hatay (Turkey) Jeonju (Korea) Macau (Macau, China) Östersund (Sweden) Panama City (Republic of Panama) Paraty (Brazil) Parma (Italy) Phuket (Thailand) Popayan (Colombia) Rasht (Iran) San Antonio (US) Shunde (China) Tsuruoka (Japan) Tucson (US) Zahlé (Lebanon)
- 28. Plan • Food, Gastronomyand Tourism a successful encounter. • Food, Cultures & Identities • Food, Cultures and Health (of the human beings and of the planet)
- 29. Cultural studies Cuisine(s) andidentities
- 30. Descendant Norbert Elias Aristocratie Bourgeoisie Peuple Cultures etcivilisation Le système de la mode Moteur du processus de civilisation
- 31. The distinction ofPierre Bourdieu Espace des cultures populaires “Autonomy of popular tastes” Distinction process Les classes montantes copient les classes superieures qui pour se distinguer déplacent leur goûts Conséquences : 1. Idéalisation du populaire 2. La gastronomie est réduite aux avatars du processus de distinction
- 32. Modèle descendant Des élitesvers le peuple Modèle remontant Du peuple vers les élites La Culture des élites versus les cultures populaires Aristocratie Bourgeoisie Peuple Several diffusion modeles in cohabitation Several kind of food popular cultures : • Regionales • De milieux sociaux • Paysans • Ouvriers • Artisans Modèle influences extérieures Expansions colonisation & flux migratoires Categories sociales
- 33. The magret decanard
- 34. Lo Hei prosperityYu Sheng
- 35. Impensé de PCI: la localisation dé- connexion espace de production espace de consommation • Codfish • Transnational products: pizza • The samossas • The chilli…
- 37. Dog meat meala gastronomic heritage? Jean-Pierre Poulain
- 38. Eat dog festival,Yulin, China
- 39. The foie gras:a “cultural expection” • Rapport homme animaux • Gaspillage alimentaire • Torture
- 41. Les formes delégitimation • Par les pairs : Bocuse d’or, MOF, culinary academy of France, …. Chefs of very high level evaluate other chefs and attest excellence http://www.bocusedor.com/2009/equipes/?pays=FR • Par les experts : le critique gastronomique. • Par les média, Jamie Oliver • Par les jurys degustateurs • Par les consommateurs 41
- 42. Borders and controversiesin heritage • Durabilité et gaspillage • Les limites de la durabilité et la notion échelle de validité • Universalisme et culturalisme du patrimoine • Fermeture ou dialogue entre les cultures
- 43. Jean-Pierre Poulain Plan • Food,Gastronomy and Tourism a successful encounter. • Food, cultures & identities • Food, cultures, identities and health
- 44. Jean-Pierre Poulain Tourism isthe meeting between two food cultures • Eating is a daily obligation and at same time a way of entry in the culture of the visited country, • Meal changes the tourist from spectator into an actor, it is a “formidable machine to travel” (E. Morin) • Tourist meal is a meeting of two food models. By doing this, it learns as much from one as from the other.
- 45. Jean-Pierre Poulain The pointof view of the tourist: • A significant part of the activity of a tourist How to go from a constrained time (biological activity +++) to a cultural time (cultural activity+++)? • 15% of the budget of a tourist + an important part of the budget of the souvenirs • A space at the medical risk: – the “turista” is… a major tourist activity – Avian flu • A space of symbolic risk • A space of discovered and pleasure
- 46. Jean-Pierre Poulain Different kindsof food heritage • Living heritage: What we do in different parts of society or the different types of restaurants – The recording of traditional dishes and practices identified like such (books of receipts…) – Products, dishes, technical practices, food ways inventoried by the ethnographic investigation • Sleeping heritage: What we have done in the past, but we do not anymore – Written or oral history – Forgotten products or practices • Constructed heritage: What is in the spirit of…
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- 48. Jean-Pierre Poulain The times oftrip Spaces of valorization Before Tourist guides Ethnic restaurants in the country of origin Television programs Experiments through parents or friends Experiments with the Diaspora During Restaurants, hosts tables Markets and store of food Guides Invitations at home Food souvenirs After Ethnic restaurants in the country of origin Store and super market «ethnic products » Internet sales (ex colis pays…) Cooking at home dishes discovered in the visited country
- 49. The levels ofaction Inventory National level Regional Ethnic groups … Dissemination and networking Social scientists Historians Farmers Chefs Food industries Tourism actors Politicians Media … Promoting Before During After
- 50. Some actions: research,training and professionalisation Data collection Ethnological Historical Technological Biological Expectations and food models of visitors … Education Continuing education Technical education tourism and culinary art … Dissemination Scientific Professional Public In and out the country Media … Touristification Networking Conceptualisation of gastronomic tourism products Festival … Jean-Pierre Poulain
- 51. JP Poulain CETIA-ERITAUTM • Léo Moulin, L’Europe à table, 1974 • 1984, début des inventaires régionaux : Ethno-cuisine, Itinéraires gourmands, CNAC • Sites remarquables du goût • 2006 « Les cultures culinaires de l’Europe »
- 52. Plan • Food, Gastronomyand Tourism a successful encounter. • Food, Cultures & Identities • Food, Cultures and Health (of the human beeings and of the planet)
- 53. The enviromental turn: -Feeding the planete and - Preserve the enviroment
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- 56. Feeding humanity: a recurrentquestion • Anton Zischka, Bread for 2 billions humans, 1942. • Josué de Castro, Geography of hunger • FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization) • Joseph Klatzman, Feeding humankind, 1991 • 2008, Hunger riots • 2011, Starvation in the horn of Africa 56
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- 60. Supposed causes offood insecurity return • Bad harvest in 2007 (in US, aurstralia and Russia) • Raising production of Bio-fuel • Financial speculation 60
- 61. Development and transformationof food consumptions 61
- 62. On Malthus’ trace •Food production depends on: – Exploitable agricultural areas – Water supply – Sunlight – Agrarian techniques – Inputs (fertilizers.) – Agricultural machinery – Energy supply – ... • Food requirement depends on : – The number of individuals to feed – What people consume = FOOD MODELS 62
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- 65. Perspective Économico-écologique Perspective socio-anthropologique Concepts clefs Primatà l’environnement. Empreinte écologique, (km/aliment), CO2 Primat aux humains Commerce équitable, AMAP, Slow food, community supported agriculture Critères d‘orientation et d’évaluation Universalisme des enjeux écologiques globaux Equité intergénérationnelle Quelle planète laissera-t-on à nos enfants ? Particularisme des situations sociales et culturelles Equité intra-générationnelle Solidarité avec les victimes et scandale de la faim Modalités d’évaluation des systèmes Modélisation mathématique Etude de cas, retour d’experience Relation au marché Le marché est donné, il convient d’en comprendre le fonctionnement Le marché est une construction sociale et politique, il faut agir pour l’orienter vers ce qui est favorable Place des consommateurs Consommateurs opèrent des choix Consommateurs sont des acteurs des systèmes Science princeps Econométrie, écologie, agronomie Anthropologie, sociologie, sciences du développement
- 66. Development and transformationof food consumptions 66
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- 68. Cultural inertia offood patterns The concept of inertia reflects a phenomenon of reaction to changing factors. It takes the form of a resistance that opposes the change, slows. The inertia of dietary patterns is the consequence of the fact that food practices are not individual decisions. They are supervised by social norms and systems they are supporting social functions (in Durkheimian sense). 68Bricas, 2011
- 70. Purchasing Power Or level of developpement Ratioof Animal Calories on Total Calories Proteins Fats Proteins Fats • Pre-Set by the ‘Food Model’: • Taboo • Food & Culinary Systems • Food Decision-Making • Socio-Economic Determinants • Cognitives determinants Main Focus of Classical Nutritional Transition Scientific Problematic
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- 73. The double burdentheory... 73
- 74. Health transition: mortalityrates (US, 1910-1970) IUMSP-GCT 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 1900 1920 1940 1960 1980 Deathrateper100,000population Infectious diseases Heart disease Cancer Stroke Violent/accident Infancy disease Tuberculosis (up to >1000 earlier)
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- 76. Eating out: Meals Mealsonly Breakfast And or Lunch And/or Diner 12,5 % on Meals % on Individuals 64.1 % of the Malaysian individuals eat at least on meal per day outside of the home 12.5 % of individuals eating only at home have at least one meal that comes from outside Eating out Eating at home with meals coming from outside Eating at home 7.72 46.12 53.88 10,25
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- 79. Asian Food Barometer Barometercompleted Barometers in discussion PhD in progress PhD completed Barometer in progress Barometer: future plan Taylor’s University University Toulouse Jean Jaurès CNRS Associated International Laboratory : “Food, Cultures & Health”
- 80. • Food consumption –Vegetable – Meat and fish – Diary • Nutrients – Carbohydrate – Fat – Protein – Micro-nutrients • Variety Eating out Food intakes – Food days – Meals and snacking , structures and compositions Representations on food Perception of risk 80 Nutritional surveys Socio-anthropological surveys Interdisciplinary Dialogue Public Health Sensorial analysis Socio-cultural determinants Food lifestyles Eating decision Food Barometer
- 81. Studying food cultures,usefull for: • Tourism and hospitality, • Agro economy, • Nutrition and Health, • Food policy : Food security, Food safety, Food crises management, • Cultural policies.
- 83. From “gathering economy”to « agri » and then « cultural » economy • A double Methaphore of: – « Agriculture » – « Cultural economy » Gathering economy Agricultural economy Cultural economy Organic food Cultural transition Ecological transition Alimentation
- 84. Jean-Pierre Poulain More PoulainJean Pierre, 2012, dictionnaire des cultures alimentaires, PUF. Guy Fontaine et Jean-Pierre Poulain, 2002, Dir., Le tourisme dans les départements d’Outre Mer, Lanore. Jean-Pierre Poulain, 2002, Sociologies de l’alimentation, PUF. Jean-Pierre Poulain et Edmond Neirinck, Histoire de la cuisine et des cuisiniers, Lanore, 2000. Jean-Pierre Poulain, « French gastronomie, french gastronomies », in Goldstein D. et Merkele K., 2005, Culinary cultures of Europe Identity, Diversity and dialogue, Éditions du Conseil de l’Europe, p. 157-170. Laurence Tibère et Jean-Pierre Poulain, « Découverte des saveurs créoles : l’expérience Villages créoles à La Réunion », Pour, sept. 2006. Laurence Tibère, 2005-2, « Nourritures créoles. Cuisines symboliques et identités à La Réunion », in Cuisines en partage, Diaspora n°6. Philip McLaughlin, Jean-Pierre Poulain, Laurence Tibère, 2003, « Tourisme et altérité alimentaire », Espaces. N°202 Jean Pierre Poulain, 2008, "Gastronomic Heritages and Their Tourist Valorisations, West meets east: a recipe of success in this era of globalisation, Tourisme, October 2008 pp. 1-18. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/234166233_Poulain_J.- P._Gastronomic_Heritages_and_Their_Tourist_Valorisations Jean Pierre Poulain, 2012, "The sociology of gastronomic decolonisation », in Shanta Nair-Venugopal, The Gaze of the West: Framings of the East, Publisher: Palgrave Macmillan, https://www.researchgate.net/publication/234059764_The_sociolog y_of_gastronomic_decolonisation