This document discusses fashion publications and how they promoted fashion trends around 1900. It describes the growth of illustrated fashion magazines as print technology advanced, allowing fashion to reach a wider audience. Publications included fashion plates to showcase new styles as well as technical diagrams and pattern sheets. Magazines differentiated between those promoting high fashion designers and those providing practical advice. The stage was also important for launching fashions, as actresses wore the latest designs and press reported on their outfits. International exhibitions displayed the current season's fashions, promoting the global trade in fashion.
Givenchy analyzes the luxury consumer journey through 8 steps: awareness, discovery, interest, evaluation, purchase decision, transaction, engagement, and loyalty. This presentation explores Givenchy's omni-channel retail strategy, focusing on its apparel. It details the brand's stores, history, codes, websites, social media, touchpoints, and how they guide consumers through the purchase funnel. The analysis shows how Givenchy seamlessly integrates online and offline experiences to drive awareness, evaluation, and loyalty among luxury consumers.
The document discusses the fashion design process. It explains that designers work a year in advance to plan collections for the upcoming seasons, researching trends, selecting themes, and creating mood boards. Designers must predict upcoming styles, design garments, and finalize collections in time for fashion shows to debut their lines to buyers and press. The process involves sketching, draping, patternmaking, samples, fittings and adjustments before full production of a collection.
The document discusses how fashion public relations has adapted to the digital age, noting that social media and new technologies have disrupted traditional PR methods and that digital strategies must be integrated. It provides examples of how fashion brands can effectively utilize social media and new media tools like LinkedIn and Twitter for PR purposes. Tips are also given on digital PR best practices, building digital expertise, and monitoring and measuring social media engagement.
This document provides an overview of the visual merchandising strategy for Louis Vuitton's Montaigne store in Paris. It discusses the brand's history and global presence through 466 stores in 66 countries. The Montaigne store aims to provide an elegant shopping environment for affluent international clients. It achieves this through the use of fine materials, curated artwork, and technological displays. Key categories are presented across the two floors with lighting, fixtures, and mannequins used to draw attention to new products and styles. Photos depict the store's entrance, interior spaces, and shop windows which bring the visual concept to life through an immersive luxury experience.
This document summarizes Astha Goel's fashion design portfolio including 5 projects from her BA in Fashion Design & Technology. The projects cover themes of pop art, a graduation fashion show, art deco, an Indian wedding, and vampires. Each project includes mood boards, research, sketches, and 2-5 designs. The portfolio demonstrates Astha's creative exploration of themes and development of her design skills.
The document appears to be design boards or mood boards for various projects. It includes themes, inspirations, clients, colors, and multiple designs for items like bags, footwear, accessories, home goods, and clothing. There are design boards for multi-compartment bags, belts, waist coats, footwear, ponchos, wall hangings, portfolios, folders, clutches, journals, tissue holders, neck pieces, earrings, wallets, handbags, pop tiles, integrated term projects, saree borders, baby bed sheets, party wear, cell phones, magazine covers, basic sleeves, basic skirts, and tops. Each design board includes the theme, inspiration, client, and color along
The document provides an overview of fashion terminology and the process of creating a fashion collection. It discusses haute couture, designer labels, and mass market clothing categories. The major steps in creating a collection are outlined, including researching trends, designing garments, and holding a fashion show. The five major fashion cities of Milan, Paris, London, New York, and Tokyo are also introduced.
This document provides steps for preparing for a fashion photoshoot, including getting inspired, understanding your audience, creating moodboards, requesting looks, choosing a team, casting models, and shooting. It emphasizes the importance of being inspired by fashion shows, street style, art, culture, and everywhere. It also notes that understanding and respecting your target reader is key when executing trends, and that creating a good moodboard helps ensure everyone is on the same page creatively.
Givenchy analyzes the luxury consumer journey through 8 steps: awareness, discovery, interest, evaluation, purchase decision, transaction, engagement, and loyalty. This presentation explores Givenchy's omni-channel retail strategy, focusing on its apparel. It details the brand's stores, history, codes, websites, social media, touchpoints, and how they guide consumers through the purchase funnel. The analysis shows how Givenchy seamlessly integrates online and offline experiences to drive awareness, evaluation, and loyalty among luxury consumers.
The document discusses the fashion design process. It explains that designers work a year in advance to plan collections for the upcoming seasons, researching trends, selecting themes, and creating mood boards. Designers must predict upcoming styles, design garments, and finalize collections in time for fashion shows to debut their lines to buyers and press. The process involves sketching, draping, patternmaking, samples, fittings and adjustments before full production of a collection.
The document discusses how fashion public relations has adapted to the digital age, noting that social media and new technologies have disrupted traditional PR methods and that digital strategies must be integrated. It provides examples of how fashion brands can effectively utilize social media and new media tools like LinkedIn and Twitter for PR purposes. Tips are also given on digital PR best practices, building digital expertise, and monitoring and measuring social media engagement.
This document provides an overview of the visual merchandising strategy for Louis Vuitton's Montaigne store in Paris. It discusses the brand's history and global presence through 466 stores in 66 countries. The Montaigne store aims to provide an elegant shopping environment for affluent international clients. It achieves this through the use of fine materials, curated artwork, and technological displays. Key categories are presented across the two floors with lighting, fixtures, and mannequins used to draw attention to new products and styles. Photos depict the store's entrance, interior spaces, and shop windows which bring the visual concept to life through an immersive luxury experience.
This document summarizes Astha Goel's fashion design portfolio including 5 projects from her BA in Fashion Design & Technology. The projects cover themes of pop art, a graduation fashion show, art deco, an Indian wedding, and vampires. Each project includes mood boards, research, sketches, and 2-5 designs. The portfolio demonstrates Astha's creative exploration of themes and development of her design skills.
The document appears to be design boards or mood boards for various projects. It includes themes, inspirations, clients, colors, and multiple designs for items like bags, footwear, accessories, home goods, and clothing. There are design boards for multi-compartment bags, belts, waist coats, footwear, ponchos, wall hangings, portfolios, folders, clutches, journals, tissue holders, neck pieces, earrings, wallets, handbags, pop tiles, integrated term projects, saree borders, baby bed sheets, party wear, cell phones, magazine covers, basic sleeves, basic skirts, and tops. Each design board includes the theme, inspiration, client, and color along
The document provides an overview of fashion terminology and the process of creating a fashion collection. It discusses haute couture, designer labels, and mass market clothing categories. The major steps in creating a collection are outlined, including researching trends, designing garments, and holding a fashion show. The five major fashion cities of Milan, Paris, London, New York, and Tokyo are also introduced.
This document provides steps for preparing for a fashion photoshoot, including getting inspired, understanding your audience, creating moodboards, requesting looks, choosing a team, casting models, and shooting. It emphasizes the importance of being inspired by fashion shows, street style, art, culture, and everywhere. It also notes that understanding and respecting your target reader is key when executing trends, and that creating a good moodboard helps ensure everyone is on the same page creatively.
This document discusses fashion merchandising and its various types. It defines fashion merchandising as planning and promoting sales through timely presentation, advertising, and displays. Export merchandising involves offering retail goods for sale internationally. Retail merchandising helps retailers select and promote products to encourage sales. Visual merchandising refers to all visual elements customers see inside and outside a store, with the goal of enticing customers into the store to spend money.
This document summarizes fashion media and communication programs offered at Pearl Academy. It describes a 4-year Bachelor's in Fashion Media Communication, a 2-year Post Graduate Diploma in Fashion Communication, and a 1-year Diploma in Professional Photography. It provides an overview of career opportunities in fashion journalism, event design, advertising, photography, film and television production, and public relations. Testimonials from industry professionals emphasize the value of specialized fashion media education.
Presentation1 History Evaluation Textile and CostumeSourav Parvez
The document provides information about fashion during the French Revolution period from 1789-1799. It discusses children's, women's, and men's fashion as well as working class clothing. For women, it describes gowns, jackets, underwear, footwear, hairstyles, and accessories. For men, it mentions coats, shirts, breeches, shoes, and stockings. It also provides brief summaries of fashion trends from 1900-1913 called "Undulation and Exotica" and from 1914-1924 focusing on the "New Simplicity" movement after World War 1.
This document describes new makeup products from Yves Saint Laurent including a liquid lipstick that combines the benefits of lipstick, lip gloss, and lip stain, a lip and cheek tint called Rouge Volupte Duo that has a melting texture and fresh pop of color, and an updated Touche Eclat concealer and highlighter that serves dual purposes. It also shares a quote from Yves Saint Laurent about the color gold being a magic color that reflects woman.
The document discusses the key elements of the Moschino brand. It provides information on the brand's history, identity, values, positioning in the market, and marketing strategies. Specifically, it notes that Moschino is known for its witty and surreal designs, use of bright colors, and tongue-in-cheek messaging. However, it finds that the brand needs to strengthen its marketing in Asia and ensure consistency in its brand image and messaging across campaigns.
The document discusses several major fashion cities and countries including London, Italy, the United States, Paris, Japan, and India. It provides details about the prominent fashion industries, styles, famous designers, and fashion events in each location. For example, it states that London is famous for its creativity and street fashion while Milan and Florence stage major Italian fashion shows. New York is described as the business capital of fashion in the US. Paris has always been considered the home of fashion.
This document summarizes British fashion from 1050 to the early 19th century through detailed descriptions and images of clothing from each time period. It discusses the basic tunics, mantles, and leggings worn in the 11th-15th centuries and the transition to fitted doublets, breeches, and elaborate ruffs in the 16th-17th centuries. Women's dresses evolved from simple tunics to structured gowns with wide skirts and tall hairstyles. By the 18th century, men wore tailored coats and waistcoats while women's fashions emphasized sackback dresses and side hoops under full skirts. The document provides a comprehensive overview of changing styles and silhouettes across British fashion history
This document provides information about fashion brands, products, and magazines. It discusses how brands like Nike have expanded from focusing only on athletic performance to also incorporating fashion elements in their designs. Nike's iconic Air Jordan shoes helped turn athletic shoes into a fashion statement. The document also notes how cell phones have become a fashion accessory, with early Nokia phones offering customizable covers and cases. Fashion magazines are discussed as being highly influential sources of the latest trends and providing celebrity editorials.
This document presents the design concept and development of a saree using Egyptian motifs. Key elements include:
- The use of the papyrus flower motif from Egyptian designs.
- Techniques for arranging the motif in regular and irregular repetitions as well as overlapping patterns.
- Specifications for the 6-yard saree design including the width, length, blouse design, and motifs used.
- Fabric details like the use of tussar silk and metallic thread embroidery.
The saree was designed by Aditi Karwa for her Advance Diploma in Fashion Technology coursework.
Shortly after World War I, Adele Casagrande opened a fur store in Rome called "leather fur store", which later became famous as Fendi. Fendi started as a family business focused on fur garments. When the second generation of five daughters joined, Fendi successfully expanded internationally. Now in its third generation under Silvia Venturini Fendi, Fendi has become a popular symbol of fashion in Milan with over 80 years of history. Fendi is known for high quality leather handbags and fur clothing that launched new trends, and its iconic "double F" logo.
Do you want to learn about Fashion and Latest Fashion Trends?If yes then this is your right choice.Check this Fashion presentation and visit my blog of Latest Fashion Trends http://girlou.blogspot.com
Haute couture refers to high-end custom fashion design. It is made for individual customers and prioritizes fit and quality over cost. Designer labels are between couture and mass market - not custom made but using high quality materials in small quantities. Mass market clothes cater to wide audiences in large standardized sizes and quantities using affordable materials and construction. The top fashion cities are considered Milan, Paris, London, New York, and Tokyo where many famous designers are based and host fashion shows.
Design & Mood Boards: Unearthing Your Brand or Project’s Tone. A designer will explore concepts and themes via a
design and/or mood board, because trying to explain a design
idea, mood, emotions and the like can be hard to
communicate. Some people do well in bullet points or verbal
explanation, but some need a visual. This explains that process and its importance.
This document provides the history and background of the luxury brand Gucci. It discusses how Gucci was founded in 1921 in Florence, Italy as a luggage company. It then covers some of Gucci's expansions over the decades into different product categories and markets. The document also gives an overview of Gucci's leadership and creative directors over time. Finally, it provides some key financial and business information about Gucci's revenues, retail store count, and main competitors in the luxury sector.
Consumer refers to individuals who purchase merchandise for personal use. Costume describes clothing worn for a specific purpose such as historical reenactment, theatrical performances, or fancy dress parties. Visual merchandising involves artistic product display and arrangement using elements like color, lighting, and space to encourage sales.
MRKT438 Brand Management: Saint Laurent ParisCindy Yang
MRKT438 Brand Management
Brand Audit III and Recommendations for Saint Laurent Paris in Canada
Teammates:
Caroline Amzallag
Oriane Rosner
Helena Song
Reem Shihabi
Eduardo Oliver
Cindy Yang
During the 18th century in France, new political and social ideologies emerged that influenced fashion trends. Marie Antoinette originally wore elaborate, extravagant gowns at court but later adopted a simpler muslin chemise dress that was more comfortable and liberating. As the French Revolution progressed, fashion began making political statements through colors like red, white, and blue, and items like fans and pins that featured revolutionary slogans and symbols.
Cashgate Scandal Malawi:Introduction On Fashion And Designing Concepts In Fas...Joseph Jacob Esther
The short answer is yes. The extraordinary success of Karl Ove Knausgård and Elena Ferrante in recent years is proof that fiction from other lands has a global following. Last year a new report from Literature Across Frontiers (LAF) finally put some figures on this. The statistics show a steady growth of literary translations over the past two decades, both in absolute numbers and as a share of the whole. The number of literary translations into English grew by two-thirds between 1990 and 2012, accounting for a peak of 5.23% of the whole in 2011 against an average of just 3%. Specialist foreign-fiction publishers, such as Quercus, Pereine and Pushkin, have all sprung up in the past decade or so.
This document provides an overview of the apparel industry and its various components. It discusses the textile industry, different types of apparel manufacturers and contractors, as well as integration models like vertical and horizontal. It also covers distinctions between couture and ready-to-wear clothing, wholesale price zones, brand name classifications, and profiles several influential fashion designers like Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, and Ralph Lauren. The summary emphasizes knowing industry brands, designers, and being able to discuss trends and history.
This document provides a trend analysis and overview of key colors, trends, and products for Spring/Summer 2018 fashion season based on observations from Fashion Weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. The analysis identifies six core color ways including Millennial Pink, Optimistic Yellow, Gen Z Purple, Primary Red, Monochromatic, and Analogous Blocking. Ten key trends are also outlined such as Athluxe, The 80s Called, Power Clashing, Wonder Women, Flora, Double Denim, Pretty Ugly, and All Plaid Everything. The document aims to help retailers stay abreast of larger industry trends and consumer culture.
This document provides an overview of fashion, including its history and key aspects. It discusses how fashion has evolved over time, from custom-made clothing to today's mass-produced styles influenced by fashion trends and designers. The document also examines the major sectors of the global fashion industry, the role of media in influencing fashion, and how public relations and social media have become increasingly important.
North Berwick High School Art & Design Dept -Art deco powerpoint presentationfmacculloch
Art Deco reached its peak between the two world wars, epitomizing the glamour and luxury of the Jazz Age. It transformed skylines globally and influenced everything from fashion to product design. Originating in Paris in 1925, Art Deco styles quickly spread worldwide. It featured geometric patterns and streamlined motifs inspired by modernism, industry, and exotic cultures. While initially seen in luxury goods, Art Deco came to define the architectural and design aesthetics of the era, appearing in everything from skyscrapers to plastic radios.
This document discusses fashion merchandising and its various types. It defines fashion merchandising as planning and promoting sales through timely presentation, advertising, and displays. Export merchandising involves offering retail goods for sale internationally. Retail merchandising helps retailers select and promote products to encourage sales. Visual merchandising refers to all visual elements customers see inside and outside a store, with the goal of enticing customers into the store to spend money.
This document summarizes fashion media and communication programs offered at Pearl Academy. It describes a 4-year Bachelor's in Fashion Media Communication, a 2-year Post Graduate Diploma in Fashion Communication, and a 1-year Diploma in Professional Photography. It provides an overview of career opportunities in fashion journalism, event design, advertising, photography, film and television production, and public relations. Testimonials from industry professionals emphasize the value of specialized fashion media education.
Presentation1 History Evaluation Textile and CostumeSourav Parvez
The document provides information about fashion during the French Revolution period from 1789-1799. It discusses children's, women's, and men's fashion as well as working class clothing. For women, it describes gowns, jackets, underwear, footwear, hairstyles, and accessories. For men, it mentions coats, shirts, breeches, shoes, and stockings. It also provides brief summaries of fashion trends from 1900-1913 called "Undulation and Exotica" and from 1914-1924 focusing on the "New Simplicity" movement after World War 1.
This document describes new makeup products from Yves Saint Laurent including a liquid lipstick that combines the benefits of lipstick, lip gloss, and lip stain, a lip and cheek tint called Rouge Volupte Duo that has a melting texture and fresh pop of color, and an updated Touche Eclat concealer and highlighter that serves dual purposes. It also shares a quote from Yves Saint Laurent about the color gold being a magic color that reflects woman.
The document discusses the key elements of the Moschino brand. It provides information on the brand's history, identity, values, positioning in the market, and marketing strategies. Specifically, it notes that Moschino is known for its witty and surreal designs, use of bright colors, and tongue-in-cheek messaging. However, it finds that the brand needs to strengthen its marketing in Asia and ensure consistency in its brand image and messaging across campaigns.
The document discusses several major fashion cities and countries including London, Italy, the United States, Paris, Japan, and India. It provides details about the prominent fashion industries, styles, famous designers, and fashion events in each location. For example, it states that London is famous for its creativity and street fashion while Milan and Florence stage major Italian fashion shows. New York is described as the business capital of fashion in the US. Paris has always been considered the home of fashion.
This document summarizes British fashion from 1050 to the early 19th century through detailed descriptions and images of clothing from each time period. It discusses the basic tunics, mantles, and leggings worn in the 11th-15th centuries and the transition to fitted doublets, breeches, and elaborate ruffs in the 16th-17th centuries. Women's dresses evolved from simple tunics to structured gowns with wide skirts and tall hairstyles. By the 18th century, men wore tailored coats and waistcoats while women's fashions emphasized sackback dresses and side hoops under full skirts. The document provides a comprehensive overview of changing styles and silhouettes across British fashion history
This document provides information about fashion brands, products, and magazines. It discusses how brands like Nike have expanded from focusing only on athletic performance to also incorporating fashion elements in their designs. Nike's iconic Air Jordan shoes helped turn athletic shoes into a fashion statement. The document also notes how cell phones have become a fashion accessory, with early Nokia phones offering customizable covers and cases. Fashion magazines are discussed as being highly influential sources of the latest trends and providing celebrity editorials.
This document presents the design concept and development of a saree using Egyptian motifs. Key elements include:
- The use of the papyrus flower motif from Egyptian designs.
- Techniques for arranging the motif in regular and irregular repetitions as well as overlapping patterns.
- Specifications for the 6-yard saree design including the width, length, blouse design, and motifs used.
- Fabric details like the use of tussar silk and metallic thread embroidery.
The saree was designed by Aditi Karwa for her Advance Diploma in Fashion Technology coursework.
Shortly after World War I, Adele Casagrande opened a fur store in Rome called "leather fur store", which later became famous as Fendi. Fendi started as a family business focused on fur garments. When the second generation of five daughters joined, Fendi successfully expanded internationally. Now in its third generation under Silvia Venturini Fendi, Fendi has become a popular symbol of fashion in Milan with over 80 years of history. Fendi is known for high quality leather handbags and fur clothing that launched new trends, and its iconic "double F" logo.
Do you want to learn about Fashion and Latest Fashion Trends?If yes then this is your right choice.Check this Fashion presentation and visit my blog of Latest Fashion Trends http://girlou.blogspot.com
Haute couture refers to high-end custom fashion design. It is made for individual customers and prioritizes fit and quality over cost. Designer labels are between couture and mass market - not custom made but using high quality materials in small quantities. Mass market clothes cater to wide audiences in large standardized sizes and quantities using affordable materials and construction. The top fashion cities are considered Milan, Paris, London, New York, and Tokyo where many famous designers are based and host fashion shows.
Design & Mood Boards: Unearthing Your Brand or Project’s Tone. A designer will explore concepts and themes via a
design and/or mood board, because trying to explain a design
idea, mood, emotions and the like can be hard to
communicate. Some people do well in bullet points or verbal
explanation, but some need a visual. This explains that process and its importance.
This document provides the history and background of the luxury brand Gucci. It discusses how Gucci was founded in 1921 in Florence, Italy as a luggage company. It then covers some of Gucci's expansions over the decades into different product categories and markets. The document also gives an overview of Gucci's leadership and creative directors over time. Finally, it provides some key financial and business information about Gucci's revenues, retail store count, and main competitors in the luxury sector.
Consumer refers to individuals who purchase merchandise for personal use. Costume describes clothing worn for a specific purpose such as historical reenactment, theatrical performances, or fancy dress parties. Visual merchandising involves artistic product display and arrangement using elements like color, lighting, and space to encourage sales.
MRKT438 Brand Management: Saint Laurent ParisCindy Yang
MRKT438 Brand Management
Brand Audit III and Recommendations for Saint Laurent Paris in Canada
Teammates:
Caroline Amzallag
Oriane Rosner
Helena Song
Reem Shihabi
Eduardo Oliver
Cindy Yang
During the 18th century in France, new political and social ideologies emerged that influenced fashion trends. Marie Antoinette originally wore elaborate, extravagant gowns at court but later adopted a simpler muslin chemise dress that was more comfortable and liberating. As the French Revolution progressed, fashion began making political statements through colors like red, white, and blue, and items like fans and pins that featured revolutionary slogans and symbols.
Cashgate Scandal Malawi:Introduction On Fashion And Designing Concepts In Fas...Joseph Jacob Esther
The short answer is yes. The extraordinary success of Karl Ove Knausgård and Elena Ferrante in recent years is proof that fiction from other lands has a global following. Last year a new report from Literature Across Frontiers (LAF) finally put some figures on this. The statistics show a steady growth of literary translations over the past two decades, both in absolute numbers and as a share of the whole. The number of literary translations into English grew by two-thirds between 1990 and 2012, accounting for a peak of 5.23% of the whole in 2011 against an average of just 3%. Specialist foreign-fiction publishers, such as Quercus, Pereine and Pushkin, have all sprung up in the past decade or so.
This document provides an overview of the apparel industry and its various components. It discusses the textile industry, different types of apparel manufacturers and contractors, as well as integration models like vertical and horizontal. It also covers distinctions between couture and ready-to-wear clothing, wholesale price zones, brand name classifications, and profiles several influential fashion designers like Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, and Ralph Lauren. The summary emphasizes knowing industry brands, designers, and being able to discuss trends and history.
This document provides a trend analysis and overview of key colors, trends, and products for Spring/Summer 2018 fashion season based on observations from Fashion Weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. The analysis identifies six core color ways including Millennial Pink, Optimistic Yellow, Gen Z Purple, Primary Red, Monochromatic, and Analogous Blocking. Ten key trends are also outlined such as Athluxe, The 80s Called, Power Clashing, Wonder Women, Flora, Double Denim, Pretty Ugly, and All Plaid Everything. The document aims to help retailers stay abreast of larger industry trends and consumer culture.
This document provides an overview of fashion, including its history and key aspects. It discusses how fashion has evolved over time, from custom-made clothing to today's mass-produced styles influenced by fashion trends and designers. The document also examines the major sectors of the global fashion industry, the role of media in influencing fashion, and how public relations and social media have become increasingly important.
North Berwick High School Art & Design Dept -Art deco powerpoint presentationfmacculloch
Art Deco reached its peak between the two world wars, epitomizing the glamour and luxury of the Jazz Age. It transformed skylines globally and influenced everything from fashion to product design. Originating in Paris in 1925, Art Deco styles quickly spread worldwide. It featured geometric patterns and streamlined motifs inspired by modernism, industry, and exotic cultures. While initially seen in luxury goods, Art Deco came to define the architectural and design aesthetics of the era, appearing in everything from skyscrapers to plastic radios.
Exam IV (Chapters 11-14)For this exam you will write one essay o.docxgitagrimston
Exam IV (Chapters 11-14)
For this exam you will write one essay on a broad question:
How do you see societies from the Mediterranean to East Asia changing in Chapters 11-14? Consider how ideas and cultural interactions from this era have contributed to our world.
To answer the question, please do one of these options:
Option I: Standard essay with about 4 pages of writing. Pictures are encouraged but not required in this option. If you use pictures, what you write about the pictures can count toward the 4 pages.
Option II: Illustrated essay with at least 2.5 pages of writing and at least five pictures. In this option, integrate the pictures with the writing so they reinforce each other.
Use information related to the reading handouts for Chapter 11-14. You will probably need about 2-3 key terms from each chapter. Key terms are in bold on the reading handouts. You may also use material from the Intro to Part 3, where Bentley and Ziegler make fascinating generalizations about Postclassical Societies.
You may also use material from our small book about the Silk Roads or from the recommended supplemental materials in the Websites and Videos section on Blackboard.
When you use key terms from the reading handouts please put them in bold or highlight them. To use a handout question that doesn't have any bold, highlight or make bold a few words from the question.
Please write in short to medium-sized paragraphs (generally five sentences or less per paragraph).
In your first paragraph, please provide an introduction with a general statement about the broad changes you are discussing in your essay. Mention one or more key aspects of society (such as philosophy, government, trade, or artistic expression) that you choose to emphasize.
In your last paragraph, provide a conclusion to tie the essay together. Give the reader one or two insights to walk away with. Tell how the material enriches our lives or helps us understand our world.
Feel free to write extra or use extra pictures if this could add value to your essay. I sometimes give over 100% on exams. I encourage you to do your best work within a time frame reasonable for you.
322
1/ Parisian Haute Couture
Fashion ties business and art together. Ever since Charles Freder- ick Worth established what is considered to have been the first haute- couture house in Paris in 1857, French couturiers have been considered artists, which enabled them to market their designs as their own exclu- sive property. Several factors contributed to the development of the fashion industry in Paris. Skilled craftspeople, relying on ancient tradi- tions, offered exceptional technical possibilities to fashion designers. High-quality museums, art exhibitions, and a fascinating city landscape were acknowledged inspirations. The proximity of the royal court, and later of socialites’ and artists’ circles, created sustained demand. Tour- ism benefited from the attraction created by fashions, and the visit ...
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was born in the late 1800s in France and orphaned at a young age. She was taught sewing by nuns and opened her first shop in 1913. With the help of Arthur Capel, she opened a second shop and gained famous clients. During World War 1, she opened her largest shop in France. Chanel revolutionized women's fashion by designing the power suit and little black dress, allowing women to dress for themselves. She built the renowned Chanel brand known for elegance and style.
The document provides biographical information about fashion designer Min Seok Tommy Park. It details Park's interest in fashion from a young age in South Korea, where trends like skinny jeans were just emerging. Park enjoyed dressing fashionably in school and finding unique ways to style less popular clothing. He decided to pursue a career in fashion design and hopes to one day open his own store. The document also discusses Park's favorite designers such as Alexander McQueen and provides insights into how he expresses his personality through his own stylish yet casual and elegant personal style.
ART RAGE AGAINST THE MACHINE A SHORT ESSAY ON ART NOUVEAU MARIA DEL CARMEN CO...Amy Roman
Art Nouveau was an artistic style that emerged in the late 19th century in response to industrialization and social changes. It emphasized organic and flowing forms inspired by nature. The movement sought to reform art and society through a variety of mediums including architecture, interior design, painting and more. While short-lived, Art Nouveau had a lasting influence and helped pave the way for 20th century modernism. It played a role in improving standards of living through its emphasis on housing reform and innovations like introducing bathrooms into home design.
History and conventions of fashion magazinesBonnieGrieve
Fashion magazines have their origins in the late 1600s and 1700s when French women and dressmakers relied on sketches of court fashion circulating outside of aristocratic circles to see the latest styles. By the 1780s, French courts had numerous fashion journals and the 'Mercure Galant' was among the first to publish sketches as books for sale. Harper's Bazaar launched in the US in 1867 featuring illustrations of European designers, helping to popularize French couture in America. In 1892, Vogue was founded as the first truly American fashion magazine, establishing many conventions still used in magazines today.
Nea research 4 the history of fashion magazines TomOConnor01
Fashion magazines have evolved since the late 1600s when French women would share sketches of outfits to showcase styles. By the early 1900s, magazines featured photos instead of illustrations to better display clothing. Throughout the 20th century, major magazines like Vogue and GQ launched and color printing improved magazine quality and reach while competition from television and websites later emerged.
Art Nouveau took its name from an 1895 art gallery in Paris that featured the new style. It originated in the late 19th century, drawing influence from British Arts and Crafts movement and Pre-Raphaelite art. Japonism, featuring Japanese woodblock prints, also influenced Art Nouveau's stylized organic forms and asymmetrical designs. Art Nouveau was popularized through international expositions and art magazines of the time. It was expressed through architecture, interior design, graphics and more in many European countries in the late 19th to early 20th centuries.
This document provides an overview of fashion trends in the 1980s and 1990s. It discusses how the conservative political climate of the times influenced fashion to take on more sober, businesslike styles. The 1980s saw the rise of power dressing for women, with padded shoulders and dark, tailored suits. Evening wear from the decade combined feminine details with slick styling. The 1990s brought more minimalist, casual styles as a reaction against 1980s excess. The document examines high fashion, mainstream trends, and style tribes to paint a picture of the period's clothing.
This document summarizes the Art Deco style that emerged after World War 1. It was characterized by geometric shapes, bold colors, and merging of ancient and futuristic styles. Art Deco influenced architecture, interior design, furniture, fashion and other decorative arts. It featured triangles, rectangles and layered motifs with bright colors and fine details. Prominent Art Deco artists included René Lalique in glasswork and Clarice Cliff in ceramics. The style was popularized in movies like The Great Gatsby and architecture like the Chrysler Building.
Modernity arose in the 19th century in response to industrialization, urbanization, and new attitudes among artists; it was characterized by new styles of painting, universal access to art, and changing social classes. As cities and consumerism grew, new artistic movements developed that rejected realism and embraced new subject matters and styles, making art more accessible through museums, lithography, and photography. Postmodernism emerged in the late 20th century as a rejection of modernism's focus on rationality and function in favor of pluralism and mixing of styles and cultures in response to a capitalist and mass consumer society.
Historical Research and Planning Project Patricia Lin
Extended researching and planning for a mock exhibition regarding to the Art Deco Fashion. From making brochure to planning all the actives for the three-day exhibition. Researched for appropriate speakers for the exhibition and plan the best route of the exhibition for the visitors.
Modernism arose in the 19th century in response to industrialization and urbanization. Artists rejected depicting historical events and instead portrayed modern life, anxieties, and class relations. New artistic movements developed, and art became more accessible through museums, lithography, and photography. In the 20th century, postmodernism emerged as a departure from modernism's ideals of rationality and authentic style. Postmodernists embraced pluralism, mixing high and low culture and styles old and new.
The document discusses the history of art education from medieval guilds to the development of art academies. It describes how:
1) During the medieval period, guilds controlled artistic production and provided apprenticeships that involved several years of training under a master craftsman.
2) In the Renaissance, the social status of artists rose and the intellectual nature of art was emphasized. Academies were established to provide art education, with the first being the Accademia di San Luca in Rome in the 1590s.
3) The French Royal Academy, founded in 1648, codified rules of art and held the influential Salon exhibitions, exerting great control over what was considered appropriate in style and subject
In 18th century France, fashion was used to signify wealth and status, with extravagant dresses designed by early fashion designers like Rose Bretin for French royalty and aristocracy. Following the French Revolution, fashion shifted to simpler Greco-inspired styles reflecting egalitarian ideals. In the early 20th century, designers like Paul Poiret incorporated Eastern influences, liberating women from corsets. The 1947 New Look by Christian Dior reintroduced an hourglass silhouette, but was challenged by Yves Saint Laurent's 1958 Trapeze collection. The 1973 Battle of Versailles pitted American and French designers in a competition won by the Americans, forcing France to acknowledge their fashion influence while emphasizing sportswear.
The document provides an overview of the costume design process. It discusses how costume design involves envisioning clothing and appearance for characters. There are four main types of costumes used in theatrical design: historical, fantastical, dance, and modern. The summary then outlines the basic steps in the costume design process, including analyzing the script/performance, collaborating with directors, conducting research, creating preliminary sketches and color layouts, and finalizing sketches.
The document provides an overview of Art Nouveau influences on fashion and design from the late 19th to early 20th century. It discusses key Art Nouveau artists and designers like Alphonse Mucha, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and Emilie Floge. Major fashion houses of the time like House of Worth and designers like Paul Poiret are also covered. The document explores how Art Nouveau emphasized natural and organic forms as inspiration. Key characteristics of the Art Nouveau style included flowing, curved lines and an emphasis on functionality in designs. Elements of exoticism from Japan and the Orient also influenced Art Nouveau art and fashion.
The document discusses the benefits of exercise for mental health. Regular physical activity can help reduce anxiety and depression and improve mood and cognitive function. Exercise causes chemical changes in the brain that may help alleviate symptoms of mental illness and boost overall mental well-being.
The document discusses the benefits of exercise for mental health. Regular physical activity can help reduce anxiety and depression and improve mood and cognitive function. Exercise causes chemical changes in the brain that may help protect against mental illness and improve symptoms for those who already suffer from conditions like depression and anxiety.
The document discusses the benefits of exercise for mental health. Regular physical activity can help reduce anxiety and depression and improve mood and cognitive functioning. Exercise causes chemical changes in the brain that may help protect against mental illness and improve symptoms.
KALYAN MATKA | MATKA RESULT | KALYAN MATKA TIPS | SATTA MATKA | MATKA.COM | MATKA PANA JODI TODAY | BATTA SATKA | MATKA PATTI JODI NUMBER | MATKA RESULTS | MATKA CHART | MATKA JODI | SATTA COM | FULL RATE GAME | MATKA GAME | MATKA WAPKA | ALL MATKA RESULT LIVE ONLINE | MATKA RESULT | KALYAN MATKA RESULT | DPBOSS MATKA 143 | MAIN MATKA
❼❷⓿❺❻❷❽❷❼❽ Dpboss Kalyan Satta Matka Guessing Matka Result Main Bazar chart Final Matka Satta Matta Matka 143 Kalyan Chart Satta fix Jodi Kalyan Final ank Matka Boss Satta 143 Matka 420 Golden Matka Final Satta Kalyan Penal Chart Dpboss 143 Guessing Kalyan Night Chart
This document announces the winners of the 2024 Youth Poster Contest organized by MATFORCE. It lists the grand prize and age category winners for grades K-6, 7-12, and individual age groups from 5 years old to 18 years old.
Fashionista Chic Couture Maze & Coloring Adventures is a coloring and activity book filled with many maze games and coloring activities designed to delight and engage young fashion enthusiasts. Each page offers a unique blend of fashion-themed mazes and stylish illustrations to color, inspiring creativity and problem-solving skills in children.
Boudoir photography, a genre that captures intimate and sensual images of individuals, has experienced significant transformation over the years, particularly in New York City (NYC). Known for its diversity and vibrant arts scene, NYC has been a hub for the evolution of various art forms, including boudoir photography. This article delves into the historical background, cultural significance, technological advancements, and the contemporary landscape of boudoir photography in NYC.
All the images mentioned in 'See What You're Missing'
Art nouveau fashion
1. Art Nouveau Fashion Gultum, Casdam o aut C. Seributua
diem resulla videst. Opicus hos, se faciena praveru murobus, ut
facta, veri patuiu voltus simpra reconu ventia? Irissid iorbem,
conem pro publicae nequod reorus, senteres et obsere pecrio
vivirmis, vitus furorum consica ium nos Catus, faciorum
Romnem poentus publice opubliam sinatur, que ternirtio estia?
Deconstod denatrae note mil hac te, deliculla re ducideperei
sidina, se nos, quosteres inte coentere tra commoer iuspion
feridie nterisqui se et estrit.
ARTNOUVEAUFASHION–CLAREROSE
2. ART NOUVEAU FASHION14 15
gow projects by Mackintosh and others also probably referred to him when it wrote:
Even feminine attire has not escaped the attention of the modern artist; with some re-
cent schemes of decoration he has indicated the design and colour of the gowns to be worn,
so that no disturbing element might mar the unity of the conception.10
This uncompromising vision may be one of the reasons why some of Mackintosh’s
projects for private clients remained unbuilt, as with his ‘House for An Art Lover’ [AN-
F007_2006AM7411].
Art Nouveau Fashion
–
The dress historian Lou Taylor, commenting on the V&A exhibition ‘International Art
Nouveau 1890–1914’, pointed out the danger of judging fin de siècle objects by our own
standards. Isolating single pieces in museum vitrines can be misleading, as they were de-
signed to be seen in ensembles where dress, jewels, hair and body all responded to each
other.11
There is also a danger of discussing individual fashion designers in isolation from
their artistic and cultural context. It is salutary to leaf through exhibition catalogues and
magazines from 1900 to 1910 to see how much space is given to designers who have since
faded into obscurity: Aine-Montaillé, Beer, Barroin, Bonnaire, Drécoll, Doeuillet, Ernst
Raudnitz, Blanche Lebouvier, Ney Soeurs and Vaganey were all respected couturiers in
1900, but their reputation has since faded.12
However, it is clear from the wealth of illus-
trated magazines dedicated to fashion, and from the fashion columns in every newspa-
per, that there was a highly effective network for disseminating fashion information both
within the trade and to consumers.
At international exhibitions, from Chicago in 1893 to Turin in 1911, fashion was in-
creasingly part of the attraction. In addition to the sample garments displayed in the
industrial buildings, there were special displays that presented the fashions of the mo-
ment – or of the past – on lifelike wax figures in lavish room settings. These provided
information for both consumers and retailers, and helped to promote the international
trade in fashion. Thus fashion innovations originated by an individual designer would
be speedily evaluated by competitors and either adapted or rejected. Moreover, the reach
of fashion was wider than ever, as ready-to-wear clothing, previously derided as one-size-
fits-all ‘slops’, and made-to-measure haute couture were revealed as belonging to the
same fashion system. Designs by couturiers such Lucile were worn on stage or in mov-
ies and illustrated in mass-circulation newspapers, while ready-to-wear manufacturers
offered garments with so many variations in fabric and trimming that they became a form
of ‘wholesale bespoke’.13
The boundaries between masculine and feminine clothing were also being eroded
during this period, as women adopted a range of man-tailored garments: first practical
overcoats and waterproofs, then skirt suits worn with a stiffly starched collar and tie, and
even, for some sports, knee breeches. Male dandies were also seeking to extend the range
of colours and styles permissible in fashionable clothing, giving rise to accusations of
effeminacy.14
At the same time, military and court uniforms provided officially sanctioned
opportunities for the wearing of bright colours and lavish embroidery. These uniforms
were a key component of the re-evaluation of fin-de-siècle style by the 1960s counter-cul-
Hector Guimard,
‘Entrance Hall’.
From Le Castel Béranger:
œuvre de Hector Guimard,
architecte, professeur à
l’Ecole nationale des arts
décoratifs (Paris: Librarie
Rouam, 1898). NAL 101.E.55
[Hunterian Museum]
Charles Rennie Mackintosh
and Margaret Macdonald
Mackintosh, ‘Drawing
Room, 78 Southpark Ave-
nue, Glasgow’. Furniture,
lighting fitments, textiles.
Glasgow, 1906. Hunterian
Museum, University of Glas-
gow: GLAHA 41212
ART NOUVEAU: INTRODUCTION
3. ART NOUVEAU FASHION60 61
Fashion Publications
–
Illustrated fashion magazines were well established by 1890; improvements in print tech-
nology, in cheap wood-based paper stock and in mail distribution networks had created
the ideal conditions for a boom in periodicals.1
In these publications fashion was dis-
cussed at different levels: coloured fashion plates showed a vision of the new fashion (not
necessarily based on extant garments), as in the highly decorated hobble skirts drawn for
The Gentlewoman in 1914 [ANF058_2006BF3713], while fashion columns gave accounts
of what was worn by the social elite, even when this was not appropriate for the lives of
the readers.
There were also publications that included technical information on new styles. Some,
like The Ladies’ Tailor (London) [ANF056_E.], sold only to professionals who were able
to draft their own patterns from technical diagrams. Other publications, such as Le Moni-
teur de la Mode (Paris) or The Queen (London), offered pattern sheets that could be adapt-
ed for use by competent amateurs. There were also magazines from which readers could
order tissue patterns cut to size; these were sometimes published by dressmaking pattern
companies, as with Butterick’s Delineator (New York) and Myra’s Journal (London).2
In industrial nations like Britain, the growing number of women employed in teach-
ing and other professions increased the pool of consumers for low-cost fashion; they were
served by numerous magazines giving practical advice and instructions, such as Mrs
Schild’s Penny Dressmaker [ANF057_2012FH8510].3
There were also fashion features in
nearly all general publications; even Votes for Women, journal of the militant Women’s
Social and Political Union, had a column advising readers how they could shop while
supporting the Suffragette cause.4
The growth of mass-market fashion magazines led to differentiation between publica-
tions: Les modes (Paris, 1901) and Vogue (New York, 1892) promoted the work of the lead-
Embroidery pattern sheet,
from Paris Journal of
Fancy Work and Fashion,
London, November 1910.
66 x 90cm. V&A: E.194–2010
Jules de Ban, fashion
drawing for The
Gentlewoman.
Watercolour, 54 x 39.5cm.
Paris or London, 1914.
V&A: E.2945–1962
PROMOTING FASHION
4. ART NOUVEAU FASHION64 65
Fashion on Stage
–
The stage spectacle, which allowed the audience to view costumes for hours at a time,
and to revisit them in illustrated newspapers and souvenir photographs of the stars, was
an essential tool of fashion promotion around 1900. Actresses were especially important
in launching new fashions in Paris, New York and London through drawing-room come-
dies or the genre of plays set in department stores.14
Garments seen on stage and in the
audience were detailed in fashion journals and press reports, and designers were happy
to supply leading ladies at a discount in return for acknowledgement in the programme.15
In 1908, the couturier Redfern placed an advertisement informing clients that they could
see his latest designs on stage in three different plays, as well as at the Franco-British
exhibition and in his London and Paris showrooms [ANF051_2006AH6383].16
Some ac-
tresses were dressed by the same designers both off stage and on; after the success of
Lucile’s costumes for The Merry Widow (1907), the lead actress Lily Elsie dressed ex-
clusively in Lucile, becoming a walking advertisement [ANF052_2009BW7044].17
Others
used their reputation as fashion innovators to launch products in their own names; Jane
Hading, a rival of Sarah Bernhardt, launched the ‘Eau de Jeunesse Jane Hading’ beauty
preparation in 1909.18
The extent to which the theatre played a role in fashion publicity was revealed by
journalists’ reactions when directors dressed actresses to conform with the play rather
than for display. The impecunious Nora in Ibsen’s A Doll’s House (1889) was criticized as
dowdy, while the flower-seller-turned-lady Eliza Doolittle in Shaw’s Pygmalion (1913) was
seen as distressingly vulgar.19
Equally controversial were theatrical spectacles presenting
styles that were too extreme for everyday wear, but which nevertheless changed the direc-
tion of fashion. In 1910 Jeanne Paquin designed costumes for the actress Cora Lapercerie
in Xantho chez les courtisanes, written by Lapercerie’s husband Jacques Richepin. For
this comedy set in Ancient Greece, Paquin reinterpreted classical ‘chitons’ with drapery
pulled tight around the body. These designs both showed off the leading lady’s figure and
presented an exaggeration of the fashionable narrow silhouette.20
In 1912 Paquin made
up the costumes for Rue de la Paix, a comedy set in rival fashion salons, one of which
produced garments in conventional good taste, and the other ‘the decors of the harem’.21
The costumes designed by Paul Iribe, one of Poiret’s favoured illustrators, promoted en-
Advertising showcard for
‘Hixopad’ heel tips.
Colour lithography on card,
30 x 20cm. London, 1911.
The National Archives:
Copy 1 315/65359
Redfern advertisement
in the programme for
Princess Ida, Savoy
Theatre, London
PROMOTING FASHION
5. ART NOUVEAU FASHION64 65
Fashion on Stage
–
The stage spectacle, which allowed the audience to view costumes for hours at a time,
and to revisit them in illustrated newspapers and souvenir photographs of the stars, was
an essential tool of fashion promotion around 1900. Actresses were especially important
in launching new fashions in Paris, New York and London through drawing-room come-
dies or the genre of plays set in department stores.14
Garments seen on stage and in the
audience were detailed in fashion journals and press reports, and designers were happy
to supply leading ladies at a discount in return for acknowledgement in the programme.15
In 1908, the couturier Redfern placed an advertisement informing clients that they could
see his latest designs on stage in three different plays, as well as at the Franco-British
exhibition and in his London and Paris showrooms [ANF051_2006AH6383].16
Some ac-
tresses were dressed by the same designers both off stage and on; after the success of
Lucile’s costumes for The Merry Widow (1907), the lead actress Lily Elsie dressed ex-
clusively in Lucile, becoming a walking advertisement [ANF052_2009BW7044].17
Others
used their reputation as fashion innovators to launch products in their own names; Jane
Hading, a rival of Sarah Bernhardt, launched the ‘Eau de Jeunesse Jane Hading’ beauty
preparation in 1909.18
The extent to which the theatre played a role in fashion publicity was revealed by
journalists’ reactions when directors dressed actresses to conform with the play rather
than for display. The impecunious Nora in Ibsen’s A Doll’s House (1889) was criticized as
dowdy, while the flower-seller-turned-lady Eliza Doolittle in Shaw’s Pygmalion (1913) was
seen as distressingly vulgar.19
Equally controversial were theatrical spectacles presenting
styles that were too extreme for everyday wear, but which nevertheless changed the direc-
tion of fashion. In 1910 Jeanne Paquin designed costumes for the actress Cora Lapercerie
in Xantho chez les courtisanes, written by Lapercerie’s husband Jacques Richepin. For
this comedy set in Ancient Greece, Paquin reinterpreted classical ‘chitons’ with drapery
pulled tight around the body. These designs both showed off the leading lady’s figure and
presented an exaggeration of the fashionable narrow silhouette.20
In 1912 Paquin made
up the costumes for Rue de la Paix, a comedy set in rival fashion salons, one of which
produced garments in conventional good taste, and the other ‘the decors of the harem’.21
The costumes designed by Paul Iribe, one of Poiret’s favoured illustrators, promoted en-
Advertising showcard for
‘Hixopad’ heel tips.
Colour lithography on card,
30 x 20cm. London, 1911.
The National Archives:
Copy 1 315/65359
Redfern advertisement
in the programme for
Princess Ida, Savoy
Theatre, London
PROMOTING FASHION
6. ART NOUVEAU FASHION76 77
Grunwaldt, fur exhibit,
from The Franco British
Exhibition illustrated
review (London: Chatto
& Windus, 1908)
PROMOTING FASHION
7. ART NOUVEAU FASHION76 77
Grunwaldt, fur exhibit,
from The Franco British
Exhibition illustrated
review (London: Chatto
& Windus, 1908)
PROMOTING FASHION
8. ART NOUVEAU FASHION86 87
Callot Soeurs, tea gown,
worn by Emilie Grigsby.
Silk damask, embroidered
net. Paris, 1905. V&A:
T.148–1967; Poiret, mantle,
worn by Emilie Grigsby.
Yellow wool lined with
black chiffon. Paris, c.1913.
V&A: T.148–1967
Jacques Doucet, ‘Les
Hortensias Bleus’ evening
dress. Silk satin and tulle,
embroidered with silk,
silver and sequins.
Paris, 1897–1906. Musée
Galliera, Paris: 1960.26.2
FASHION PATRONS
9. ART NOUVEAU FASHION86 87
Callot Soeurs, tea gown,
worn by Emilie Grigsby.
Silk damask, embroidered
net. Paris, 1905. V&A:
T.148–1967; Poiret, mantle,
worn by Emilie Grigsby.
Yellow wool lined with
black chiffon. Paris, c.1913.
V&A: T.148–1967
Jacques Doucet, ‘Les
Hortensias Bleus’ evening
dress. Silk satin and tulle,
embroidered with silk,
silver and sequins.
Paris, 1897–1906. Musée
Galliera, Paris: 1960.26.2
FASHION PATRONS
10. ART NOUVEAU FASHION102 103
Anon., stocking
exhibited at the Paris
1900 exhibition.
Silk jersey with bead and
sequin embroidery. France,
1900. V&A: T.53–1962;
Anon., stocking with lace
insertion. Silk jersey, hand
lace. Britain, c.1898.
V&A: T.75–1951
Anon., stocking exhibited
at the Paris 1900 exhibition.
Silk jersey with bead and
sequin embroidery. France,
1900. V&A: T.53–1962;
Anon., stocking with lace
insertion. Silk jersey, hand
lace. Britain, c.1898. V&A:
T.75–1951
CORSETS AND UNDERWEAR
11. ART NOUVEAU FASHION102 103
Anon., stocking
exhibited at the Paris
1900 exhibition.
Silk jersey with bead and
sequin embroidery. France,
1900. V&A: T.53–1962;
Anon., stocking with lace
insertion. Silk jersey, hand
lace. Britain, c.1898.
V&A: T.75–1951
Anon., stocking exhibited
at the Paris 1900 exhibition.
Silk jersey with bead and
sequin embroidery. France,
1900. V&A: T.53–1962;
Anon., stocking with lace
insertion. Silk jersey, hand
lace. Britain, c.1898. V&A:
T.75–1951
CORSETS AND UNDERWEAR
12. ART NOUVEAU FASHION110 111
Jacques Doucet, tailored
suit, worn by Mrs Ogden
Goelet.
Linen with silk embroi-
dery. Paris, c.1895. V&A:
T.15&A–1979
Lucien Baylac, ‘Grand
Manège Centrale’ poster.
Colour lithograph, 123.5
x 88cm. Paris, 1894. V&A:
E.148–1921
CORSETS AND UNDERWEAR
13. ART NOUVEAU FASHION110 111
Jacques Doucet, tailored
suit, worn by Mrs Ogden
Goelet.
Linen with silk embroi-
dery. Paris, c.1895. V&A:
T.15&A–1979
Lucien Baylac, ‘Grand
Manège Centrale’ poster.
Colour lithograph, 123.5
x 88cm. Paris, 1894. V&A:
E.148–1921
CORSETS AND UNDERWEAR
14. ART NOUVEAU FASHION116 117
Anon., smoking suit, worn
by Jack Eden.
Indian printed silk lined in
wool. Britain, c.1906. V&A:
T.720–1974
H. Creed & Co., embroi-
dered waistcoat, for the
Marquess of Anglesey.
Cotton canvas embroidered
in cotton and chenille
threads, silk lined. Paris,
1900–04. V&A: T.177–1967
CORSETS AND UNDERWEAR
15. ART NOUVEAU FASHION116 117
Anon., smoking suit, worn
by Jack Eden.
Indian printed silk lined in
wool. Britain, c.1906. V&A:
T.720–1974
H. Creed & Co., embroi-
dered waistcoat, for the
Marquess of Anglesey.
Cotton canvas embroidered
in cotton and chenille
threads, silk lined. Paris,
1900–04. V&A: T.177–1967
CORSETS AND UNDERWEAR
18. ART NOUVEAU FASHION144 145
The Art Nouveau revival also received support from non-European design sources. Turn-
of-the century design had been inflected by cultures on the fringes of or beyond Europe,
with Celtic knotwork, Scandinavian dragon interlace, Indian plant motifs and Japanese
asymmetry all prominent. The construction methods of ‘peasant’ clothing had also pro-
vided an important alternative to conventionally fitted garments. In the 1960s, young de-
signers returned to these models either through travel on the ‘hippie trail’ to Africa, India
and the Far East or through historic documents. Zandra Rhodes used Max Tilke’s 1920s
volume Costume Patterns and Designs as inspiration for both the cut and decoration of
her delicate chiffon smocks and kaftans [ANF120_2012FT0864].16
Wes Wilson, ‘Byrds Byrds
Byrds’ poster advertising
concerts in San Francisco,
31 March to 2 April 1967.
Colour lithograph, 57 x
35cm. San Francisco, 1967.
V&A E.396–1968
Zandra Rhodes, evening
dress.
Screen-printed silk
chiffon. Britain, 1969.
V&A:T.358–1974
ART NOUVEAU REVIVAL
19. ART NOUVEAU FASHION144 145
The Art Nouveau revival also received support from non-European design sources. Turn-
of-the century design had been inflected by cultures on the fringes of or beyond Europe,
with Celtic knotwork, Scandinavian dragon interlace, Indian plant motifs and Japanese
asymmetry all prominent. The construction methods of ‘peasant’ clothing had also pro-
vided an important alternative to conventionally fitted garments. In the 1960s, young de-
signers returned to these models either through travel on the ‘hippie trail’ to Africa, India
and the Far East or through historic documents. Zandra Rhodes used Max Tilke’s 1920s
volume Costume Patterns and Designs as inspiration for both the cut and decoration of
her delicate chiffon smocks and kaftans [ANF120_2012FT0864].16
Wes Wilson, ‘Byrds Byrds
Byrds’ poster advertising
concerts in San Francisco,
31 March to 2 April 1967.
Colour lithograph, 57 x
35cm. San Francisco, 1967.
V&A E.396–1968
Zandra Rhodes, evening
dress.
Screen-printed silk
chiffon. Britain, 1969.
V&A:T.358–1974
ART NOUVEAU REVIVAL
20. ART NOUVEAU FASHION14 15
gow projects by Mackintosh and others also probably referred to him when it wrote:
Even feminine attire has not escaped the attention of the modern artist; with some re-
cent schemes of decoration he has indicated the design and colour of the gowns to be worn,
so that no disturbing element might mar the unity of the conception.10
This uncompromising vision may be one of the reasons why some of Mackintosh’s
projects for private clients remained unbuilt, as with his ‘House for An Art Lover’ [AN-
F007_2006AM7411].
Art Nouveau Fashion
–
The dress historian Lou Taylor, commenting on the V&A exhibition ‘International Art
Nouveau 1890–1914’, pointed out the danger of judging fin de siècle objects by our own
standards. Isolating single pieces in museum vitrines can be misleading, as they were de-
signed to be seen in ensembles where dress, jewels, hair and body all responded to each
other.11
There is also a danger of discussing individual fashion designers in isolation from
their artistic and cultural context. It is salutary to leaf through exhibition catalogues and
magazines from 1900 to 1910 to see how much space is given to designers who have since
faded into obscurity: Aine-Montaillé, Beer, Barroin, Bonnaire, Drécoll, Doeuillet, Ernst
Raudnitz, Blanche Lebouvier, Ney Soeurs and Vaganey were all respected couturiers in
1900, but their reputation has since faded.12
However, it is clear from the wealth of illus-
trated magazines dedicated to fashion, and from the fashion columns in every newspa-
per, that there was a highly effective network for disseminating fashion information both
within the trade and to consumers.
At international exhibitions, from Chicago in 1893 to Turin in 1911, fashion was in-
creasingly part of the attraction. In addition to the sample garments displayed in the
industrial buildings, there were special displays that presented the fashions of the mo-
ment – or of the past – on lifelike wax figures in lavish room settings. These provided
information for both consumers and retailers, and helped to promote the international
trade in fashion. Thus fashion innovations originated by an individual designer would
be speedily evaluated by competitors and either adapted or rejected. Moreover, the reach
of fashion was wider than ever, as ready-to-wear clothing, previously derided as one-size-
fits-all ‘slops’, and made-to-measure haute couture were revealed as belonging to the
same fashion system. Designs by couturiers such Lucile were worn on stage or in mov-
ies and illustrated in mass-circulation newspapers, while ready-to-wear manufacturers
offered garments with so many variations in fabric and trimming that they became a form
of ‘wholesale bespoke’.13
The boundaries between masculine and feminine clothing were also being eroded
during this period, as women adopted a range of man-tailored garments: first practical
overcoats and waterproofs, then skirt suits worn with a stiffly starched collar and tie, and
even, for some sports, knee breeches. Male dandies were also seeking to extend the range
of colours and styles permissible in fashionable clothing, giving rise to accusations of
effeminacy.14
At the same time, military and court uniforms provided officially sanctioned
opportunities for the wearing of bright colours and lavish embroidery. These uniforms
were a key component of the re-evaluation of fin-de-siècle style by the 1960s counter-cul-
Hector Guimard,
‘Entrance Hall’.
From Le Castel Béranger:
œuvre de Hector Guimard,
architecte, professeur à
l’Ecole nationale des arts
décoratifs (Paris: Librarie
Rouam, 1898). NAL 101.E.55
[Hunterian Museum]
Charles Rennie Mackintosh
and Margaret Macdonald
Mackintosh, ‘Drawing
Room, 78 Southpark Ave-
nue, Glasgow’. Furniture,
lighting fitments, textiles.
Glasgow, 1906. Hunterian
Museum, University of Glas-
gow: GLAHA 41212
ART NOUVEAU: INTRODUCTION
21. ART NOUVEAU FASHION146 147
The Boutique Revolution
–
The interest in second-hand clothing, particularly garments from around 1900, was an
important part of this shift in aesthetic. By 1966, Life noted that ‘English youth is desert-
ing Carnaby Street in favour of the Portobello Road [flea market]’.17
About this time the
shop I Was Lord Kitchener’s Valet, which specialized in second-hand military uniforms,
moved from the Portobello Road to Carnaby Street after its wares were adopted by rock
stars including Eric Clapton and Mick Jagger.18
Second-hand uniforms, particularly
dress jackets of scarlet wool with gold braid and epaulettes, were strikingly decorated
yet unambiguously masculine, even if the wearer did risk being charged with imperson-
ating a member of Her Majesty’s forces.19
In Los Angeles, Holly Harp, whose boutique
catered to Hollywood actors and rock stars, described herself as ‘a junk-store-aholic. I
couldn’t drive by one without a snake charmer coming up and grabbing me. I would just
buy every hand-me-down that they had’.20
The cult of second-hand clothing had some paradoxical effects; on the one hand,
they could be used to validate a view of clothing as art, with beautiful pieces rescued
from oblivion by the connoisseur-wearer. Indeed, the façade of Granny Takes a Trip
(founded 1965) bore the Wildean motto: ‘One should either be a work of art or wear a
work of art.’21
On the other hand, the cheapness of second-hand garments compared to
new equivalents encouraged a disposable attitude to clothes that were not seen as part
of ‘real’ fashion. Nigel Waymouth, founder of Granny Takes a Trip, remembered that:
. . . we used to go down to Church Street Market and Portobello Road, collecting these
old clothes, and we thought it might be a good idea to open a shop with all these things .
. . We started off exclusively with old clothes: rather nice beaded dresses, blazers, all that
sort of camp nonsense . . . Then we decided we’d design our own clothes . . . we really did
pioneer . . . disposable clothes.22
The fascination with original garments from the Art Nouveau period was further
piqued in 1967, when the first of a series of sales of costumes from Diaghilev’s Ballets
Russes was held in London. By the time of the final sale in 1973, the Sunday Times was
suggesting that exotic costumes from Thamar (1912) could be wearable as well as col-
lectable.23
The influence of Diaghilev’s aesthetic can be seen in the outfit put together
by Shirley Abicair in 1967–9, orientalizing an Ossie Clark shirt and trousers by the
addition of exotic necklaces and a bright crocheted waistcoat [ANF121_2006AT5426].
Even modernist clothes were presented in ways that assimilated them to the past,
in boutiques characterized in a 1966 article by ‘a few pots of bright paint, some white-
sprayed Victorian furniture, and grandmother’s old lace curtains to run up some stock
from’. An outfit illustrated in this article, by ‘Annacat’, consisted of an Edwardian-style
lace blouse, purple velvet coat and large hat, in a photograph styled to look like a turn-
of the century portrait.24
The leader in this turn to the past was Biba, opened by Barbara
Hulanicki in Brighton in 1964, moving to Kensington Church Street (1966), Kensing-
ton High Street (1969) and finally the Art Deco Derry & Toms building (1973–5), by
which time it was attracting 30,000 customers each Saturday. The Biba aesthetic was
anti-modernist, with Hulanicki stating as early as 1965, ‘I love old things . . . things that
have lived.’25
The styling of both the clothes and the shop interiors drew on Art Deco
(and Hollywood musicals), but the overall feeling was closer to Art Nouveau in its overt
sexuality and hint of transgression: ‘Clothes for the sinful and louche: slithery gowns
in glowing satins, hats with black veils, shoes stacked for sirens . . . makeup – choco-
late and black – for vamps and vampires.’26
The theatricality of the Biba experience,
which every detail of the store from furnishings to swing tags was chosen to enhance
[ANF124_2009BX1011], responded to a view of fashion identified by the young Angela
Carter in 1967:
‘Hippy’ outfit, worn by
Shirley Abicair, 1967–9.
Hat and waistcoat:
crocheted wool, Brigitta
Bjorke, USA; blouse and
trousers: synthetic, Ossie
Clark, London; necklace:
silver and turquoise, Mo-
rocco. V&A: T.433-439–1994
John McConnell for
Pentagram, label for
Biba products.
Printed card, 16.5 x 7cm.
London, 1960s–70s. V&A
E.3681–1983
ART NOUVEAU REVIVAL