Undergraduate Dissertation

1. Yordan Dimitrov
Student ID: 5446890
Completed in April 2018
BA (Hons) International Business Management
Supervised by: Stella Despoudi
I hereby declare that this document meets the Coventry University
criteria of originality and is in line with the University guidelines.
Copyright of this project belongs to Coventry University.
AN EXPLORATION OF THE
EFFECTS OF SOCIAL MEDIA
MARKETING IN THE FAST
FASHION INDUSTRY

2. 1
Table of Contents
Abstract ..........................................................................................................................................................2
Acknowledgements.........................................................................................................................................3
Chapter One| Introduction.............................................................................................................................4
1.1 Background ..........................................................................................................................................................4
1.2 Research Aims......................................................................................................................................................4
1.2 Research Objectives..............................................................................................................................................4
1.2 Project Structure & Boundaries...........................................................................................................................4
Chapter Two| Literature review ......................................................................................................................5
2.1 Social Media Marketing (SMM)..........................................................................................................................5
2.2 Fast Fashion.........................................................................................................................................................6
2.3 Effects of online communication tools on Fast Fashion......................................................................................7
2.3.1 Traditional Marketing.................................................................................................................................7
2.3.2 Social Media Based Marketing....................................................................................................................8
2.4 Summary..............................................................................................................................................................9
Chapter Three| Methodology........................................................................................................................10
3.1 Introduction, Aims & Objectives.......................................................................................................................10
3.2 Research Design..................................................................................................................................................10
3.3 Research Philosophy and Ethics.........................................................................................................................12
3.4 Ethics ..................................................................................................................................................................13
Chapter Four| Research & Findings..............................................................................................................14
4.1 Introduction.......................................................................................................................................................14
4.2 Key Findings.......................................................................................................................................................14
4.2.1 Traditional vs. Fast Fashion Retail ...........................................................................................................14
4.2.2 Traditional Marketing vs. Social Media Marketing (SMM) ...................................................................15
4.3 Effects & Discussion...........................................................................................................................................16
4.3.1 Does the retailer use social media to attract customers?.........................................................................16
4.3.2 Has SMM had a positive effect on the business?.....................................................................................16
4.3.3 What impact does social media have on the business? ...........................................................................17
4.3.4 Discussion..................................................................................................................................................18
Chapter Five| Conclusions, Limitations & Recommendations......................................................................19
5.1 Conclusions ........................................................................................................................................................19
5.2 Limitations.........................................................................................................................................................20
5.3 Recommendations..............................................................................................................................................20
5.3.1 Future study recommendations................................................................................................................20
5.3.2 Recommendations for retail managers ....................................................................................................20
List of References..........................................................................................................................................21
Further readings.......................................................................................................................................................28
Appendices....................................................................................................................................................31
Appendix One| Certificate P63070 of Ethical Approval .........................................................................................31

3. 2
Abstract
The aim of this dissertation is to explore the effects of social media marketing (SMM) in the
Fast Fashion industry. Both qualitative and quantitative secondary data were gathered about
retailers and consumers within the fashion industry.
Taking into account the increasing use of SMM as a promotional tool, especially within the
fashion industry, the project evaluates the effects SMM has on Fast Fashion and consumer
trends.
The objectives of the research are:
• To compare traditional fashion against Fast Fashion
• To compare traditional marketing against social media marketing (SMM)
• To explore the effects of social media marketing (SMM) and Fast Fashion on fashion
Suitable academic theory and literature will be used as a guide to compile a data and evidence-
based research.
The project findings identify the positive effects of SMM within the context of Fast Fashion
through providing an understanding of the impactful SMM practices. However, the project
does not attempt to analyse current trends or predict the future impact of SMM. Whilst key
SMM concerns are emphasised, the gathered data did not identify significant relationships or
trends between traditional fashion and Fast Fashion SMM that could be translated to ultimately
conclude that a connection occurs.

4. 3
Acknowledgements
I would like to express my gratitude to my supervisor for this project, Stella Despoudi and Jon
Potter from the Centre for Academic Writing. They both supported me in the process of
improving and refining my work and thereby showcasing my best work. Further gratitude goes
to both my family and my other half who have always supported me along my journey in every
possible way.

5. 4
Chapter One| Introduction
1.1 Background
This dissertation will explore the relationship between Social Media Marketing (SMM) and
Fast Fashion through analysing the transition from Traditional Fashion to Fast Fashion and
exploring the differences between Traditional and Social Media Marketing (SMM). The
research will be focusing on key Fast Fashion retailers such as ZARA and H&M.
SMM is widely discussed topic on which academics constantly trying to evaluate and
understand. The fashion industry has been significantly affected by changes in consumer
behaviour and trends influenced by SMM and its users.
1.2 Research Aims
The aim of this research topic is to investigate the effects of social media marketing (SMM) on
the Fast Fashion industry.
1.2 Research Objectives
The dissertation aims to meet the following research objectives through the use of data and
suitable academic sources:
• To compare traditional fashion against Fast Fashion
• To compare traditional marketing against social media marketing (SMM)
• To explore the effects of social media marketing (SMM) and Fast Fashion on fashion
1.2 Project Structure & Boundaries
The dissertation consists of five chapters: Introduction; literature review; methodology;
research and findings; conclusion, limitations and recommendations. The literature review
aims to equip the reader with a detailed analysis of the existing academic literature on the topics
of Traditional Fashion and Fast Fashion, as well as Traditional Marketing and SMM, thereby
establishing the boundaries between each pair and identifying the differences through the use
of opposing views and retail data. The information will be furthermore applied as part of the
research and findings section of the project. The methodology aims to justify the chosen
research approach and in particular the philosophy behind the method in relation to data
collection and analysis. Data is going to be sourced from secondary sources from industry
reports on retail performance and social media followings for ZARA and H&M. Furthermore,
data will be analysed in conjunction with theoretical knowledge obtained from the literature
review and then applied adequately to the learning outcomes of the dissertation.
The final chapter of the project will include, conclusions, study limitations and
recommendations for further academic research and managerial practice. The conclusion
intends to synopsise research outcomes and to advise upon existing project constraints and
more decisively, provide recommendations on appropriate research enhancements.

6. 5
Chapter Two| Literature review
The second chapter of this project will deliver critical insights on the topics of social media
marketing (SMM) and the fashion industry by comparing SMM term definitions and linking
theory with industry-based examples. The literature review aims to analyse the effects online
communication tools have on the Fast Fashion industry by making a direct comparison
between pre-social media and post-social media period. It will provide a critical review of
relevant literature identify the current research gap.
2.1 Social Media Marketing (SMM)
The term social media marketing (SMM) has been described by Richter & Koch (2007) as a
mean of online communication that enables interactions, alliances and content sharing. Kaplan
& Haenlein (2010) clarify SMM are Internet-based applications built on the foundations of
‘Web 2.0 applications’ that allow the creation and exchange of user-generated content. More
recent research by Felix, Rauschnabel & Hinsch (2017) categorises SMM in a business context
as opposed to a technological point of view. They perceive SMM as a cross-functional concept
that uses social media in order to meet stakeholder expectations. Thereby, Felix, Rauschnabel
& Hinsch (2017) would be more applicable to this project. Forms of social media vary,
applications (Kaplan & Haenlein 2010) include blogs (WordPress), micro-blogs (Twitter),
picture-sharing websites (Flickr), video-sharing websites (YouTube) and networks (Facebook)
(Berthon et al. 2008). Both, journals mentioned above, Richter & Koch (2007) and Felix,
Rauschnabel & Hinsch (2017) have used Twitter in their analysis in an attempt to contextualise
social media. Both agree user-interaction is in the key to social media.
Within the present environment, SMM plays a significant role in Business. As a later article by
Kaplan & Haenlein (2012) suggests, SMM has business potential for every type of business,
from freelancers to multi-national organisations. SMM’s applications go beyond
communication. They offer opportunities for enhancing brand equity, especially if the
engagement provides motivation and personal traits (Zailskaitė-Jakštė & Kuvykaitė 2016).
Unlike, Zailskaitė-Jakštė & Kuvykaitė, researchers Kim & Ko (2012) evaluate equity SMM from
both, consumer and producer perspectives. Their findings indicate that both equities affect
purchasing intention of the end consumer.
There is a common modern practice of using social media within developed economies,
According to Chaykowski’s article (2016) in Forbes Magazine, there are 4 million businesses
who choose to advertise on Facebook, targeting 2.2 billion active users (Statista 2018). The
importance of online presence has been clearly identified by researchers Tuten & Solomon
(2013) who claim online presence is vital. Equally, Hoffman & Fodor (2010) explored the value
of SMM in terms of Return on Investment (ROI). Statistical data confirms the importance and
value of SMM, in UK alone, 72% (Mintel 2017a) of consumers claim to have used social media
in the past three months, out of which retailers like ASOS received “377,823 online mentions”
(Mintel 2017a).
Historically, there has been a number of successful case studies that outline the value of using
social media as a marketing tool in terms of ROI. In the context of another dynamic industry,
entertainment, Virgin EMI Records used Facebook and Instagram adverts in an attempt to
generate in-store album sales within the UK. The case study focused on Emeli Sandé’s Long
Live the Angels album. The results indicated 32% increase in physical sales over a five-month

7. 6
period from October 2016 to February 2017 (Virgin EMI Records: Facebook Ads Case Study
2018). Equally, with non-profit organisations, a notable case study would be the ALS Ice Bucket
Challenge, a campaign that saw over 17 million participants upload videos on the social media
platform Facebook. The campaign did not only raise awareness of the neurodegenerative
disease but also accounted for leads that generated $115 million in charitable donations (ALS
Association, 2014).
2.2 Fast Fashion
Fast Fashion or ‘quick fashion’ (Taplin 1999) originates from the development of Quick
Response, QR in the 1980s US textiles. Fernie & Sparks (1998) define it as ‘low predictability,
high impulse purchase, shorter life cycle, and high volatility of demand’. QR is a method of
meeting consumer demand through Just-In-Time supply, utilising the process from concept to
delivery in just two to four weeks (Bruce, Daly and Towers 2004). The rapid response business
strategy (Ghemawat & Nueno 2006) focuses on generating competitive advantage for retailers
such as H&M, Zara, Gap and Forever 21 and Benetton over traditional clothes retailers that are
considered to be key brands within the Fast Fashion sector.
The phenomenon has impacted the fashion retail through increasing the number of ‘seasons’
from two to as many as twenty in the case of Zara (Barnes & Lea-Greenwood 2006). As the
number of new products increases and the production time decreases, so does the quality of
the products Fast Fashion retailers produce. In fact, the garments are to be worn 10 times before
they need to be thrown away or replaced (McAfee et al. 2007). Quick fashion brands do not
predominantly rely on Fast Fashion goods, in fact only 20 percent of all displayed account as
Fast Fashion products and the remaining 80 percent core or basic lines (Bruce & Daly 2006).
Within the industry, there are product ranges are produced at small volumes, this acts as an
encouragement to consumers to visit stores more frequently as product availability is closely
linked with the quantity of stock and once a product is gone, it will no longer be re-stocked
(Mintle 2008). From the consumer point of view, this offers a great variety of up-to-date trendy
clothes and unique product offering continuously throughout the year. According to Barnes
and Lea-Greenwood (2006), the key demographic of customers are females, aged 16-24 linked
to the fact that they tend to spend a higher percentage of their disposable income on clothes
and desire to be fashionable.
Fast Fashion differs from traditional fashion retailers. As a result of the small quantities and
continuous update of the product offering, items are hardly placed on sale. This benefits brands
in relation to offering them higher revenues and a quick design turnover. In comparison,
luxury fashion brands strive for innovation, forward-thinking, differentiation and constant
change (Okonkwo 2007). Their lifespan is considerably longer than 10 times with value often
increasing as time goes by and unlike Fast Fashion, they are not mass-produced (Kapferer &
Bastien 2009). The value of Fast Fashion is considered 10 times less of the price charged for a
typical luxury brand wear (Walters 2006). There is some tension coming from some Fast
Fashion retailers imitating high-end fashion. Forever 21 for example, has been a defendant in
over fifty lawsuits regarding close copying in a 5 year period (Hempill & Suk 2009).

8. 7
Table 1 summarises sections 2.1 and 2.2 through outlining the main differences between
traditional and Fast Fashion.
Criteria Traditional Fashion Fast Fashion
Demographic Broad, covering wide range of
consumers
Targeting females aged 16-
24
Product durability
and value
Can be worn numerously and value
of some merchandise increases with
time
To be worn ten times and
replaced with new clothing
Production Produced at large volumes, typically
planned twelve months prior to the
season
Produced at small volumes,
produced within 90 days
Number of Seasons 2 to 4 seasons Minimum 4 seasons
Originality Associated with innovative and
trend setting designers
Mass produce of
similar/lookalike traditional
items of clothing
Table 1. Traditional Fashion Vs. Fast Fashion
When talking about present day social media in the context of product offering, fashion
literature author Bendoni (2017) suggests ‘influencers’ play a vital promotional role within the
marketing mix. The term ‘influencer’ has previously been described by some academics
(Bilgihan et al. 2014; Lorenzo-Romero et al. 2012) as opinion leaders. It is widely held view that
influencers or opinion leaders represent brands in the form of brand ambassadors (Booth &
Matic 2011; Papasolomou & Malenthiou 2012) in exchange for a sample of the product and/or
financial obligation.
2.3 Effects of online communication tools on Fast Fashion
Present literature suggests the Fast Fashion industry has been both wholly and partially affected
by social media.
2.3.1 Traditional Marketing
Prior to the wide spread of social media as means of communication, Fast Fashion retailers
used traditional marketing methods and tools in order to attract their stakeholders. Traditional
marketing as described by Papasolomou & Malenthiou (2012) and Trusov et al. (2009) focuses
on generating leads through the use Word-of-Mouth (WOM), Direct Mail, Print, Broadcast or
Referral. Within the context of fashion, Bendoni (2017) claims retailers focused on ‘push
marketing strategies’ in the form of commercials, editorials, magazine advertisements,
catalogues and visual merchandising.
According to Eid & Truman (2002) and O’Callaghan & Fahy (2002), traditional marketing and
principles such as the four P’s (Konopa & McCarthy 1969) require modification in order to suit
the needs of the electronic consumer. The researchers are basing their findings on primary data
in the form of in-depth interviews with Irish prominent marketers. However, their findings are
limited to industry professionals and do not take into account the consumer side of the market.
A more accurate account of traditional marketing would include both professional and non-
professional analysis.

9. 8
Traditional marketing is still part of the marketing mix for small, medium and large
organisations. Zara, ‘the leader of Fast Fashion’ (Sull & Turconi 2008) is known for focusing
their marketing strategy primarily on traditional marketing. “The company placed ads only to
promote its twice-yearly sales and to announce the opening of a new store. As a result, Zara’s
marketing expenditures averaged 0.3% of revenue” (McAfee et al. 2007) In comparison, their
competitors - The GAP, Hennes & Mauritz and Benetton spent an average of 3% to 4%
(McAfee et al. 2007) of their revenue on advertising. According to Ghemawat & Nueno (2003)
Zara relied on positive word of mouth and this gave them a competitive advantage over their
direct competitors.
Researchers Dolbec & Fischer (2015) analysed the period between 1994 and 2012 and in
particular the post-digital period in 2002 when ‘online applications’ (Kaplan & Haenlein 2010)
became part of the promotional mix. Dolbec & Fischer (2015) debate the development of online
fashion is a recent event that only conceptualised in 2002 and is yet to reach its potential.
Scholars (Kim & Ko 2012; Berthon et al. 2012) have argued that whilst traditional marketing is
effective with large target audiences, it does not provide opportunities for customisation and
individual targeting of stakeholders.
2.3.2 Social Media Based Marketing
According to Bendoni (2017), SMM was primarily introduced to the fashion industry in 1998
through the launch of the ‘Open Diary’ which acted as a publishing tool for early bloggers.
Scholars Uzunoğlu & Kip (2014) claim the influence of bloggers is key when it comes to brand
communication. Researchers (Hoffman & Fodor 2010) claim social media’s visibility on ROI
is more detailed than traditional marketing as social media platforms offer more enhanced
analysis of existing fan base. Identifying stakeholders’ gender, age as well as tastes and
preferences, thereby allowing resources to be focused on specific target audiences. As
introduced earlier in the section, opinion leaders, also known as “influencers” (Uzunoğlu &
Kip 2014; Beswick 2017) offer consumer endorsement, product placement as well as positive
reviews of existing and future garments.
Similar to Fast Fashion, Social Media’s strengths fall under the
ability to respond quickly. Scuotto et al. (2017) link empirical
research of over 2000 Italian and British small medium
enterprises with up to date knowledge of social media networks
and ROI (Hoffman & Fodor 2010). They explore the
effectiveness of social media networks of attracting customers
and in particular, the generation of ‘buzz around fashion
brands’, a concept previously explored by Kim & Ko (2012).
Godard (2016) however, considers the risks attached to SMM
and in particular the uncertainty. Whilst opinion leaders can
impact consumer behaviour, unpredictable changes in attitude
could negatively impact a brand. For example, H&M suffered
brand reputation damage when they launched clothing range
with a “coolest monkey in the jungle” (see Figure 1) slogan
written on the front and was worn by African-American child
(Zhang 2018, Miller 2018). Their product offended users on
Figure 1. H&M facing celebrity criticism by
artist The Weeknd over “Coolest monkey in
the jungle” hoodie (Twitter, 2018)

10. 9
social media and led to calls for boycotting the clothing retailer as well as public protests outside
H&M stores in South Africa (Baynes 2018). Arguably, the loss occurred as a result of poor
planning and lack of attention towards sensitive topics such as racial discrimination. The way
industry could cope with such external pressures would be to diversify the team and thereby
gain an understanding of the wider consumer base. H&M’s response to the backlash involved
hiring a “diversity leader” in order to monitor promotional campaigns and upcoming
campaigns cannot be interpreted as racist (Ritschel 2018).
Alike brands, social media platforms are also affected by stakeholder views. A recent significant
impact on the platform Snapchat occurred as a result of Kylie Jenner’s tweet that she no longer
used the messaging app service. As an influencer, her disapproval of the platform led to $1.3bn
(£1bn) loss of Snap's stock market value (BBC News 2018). A month after the fall in stock value,
Snapchat made the error of allegedly “mocking domestic abuse” when introducing a game
asking users whether they would rather “slap Rihanna or punch Chris Brown”. The game
indicated Snapchat’s lack of sensitivity, similar to H&M on the sensitive topic of domestic abuse
and resulted in further loss of £1bn in stock value (Titcomb 2018). Within three months, the
platform lost £2bn equivalent to one-fifth of the market stock value (£20bn) as of January 2018,
prior to the two incidents (Yahoo Finance 2018).
Social Media based marketing alike Fast Fashion requires immediate action, but in order to
meet consumer expectations, brands must understand their target audience. Historically,
platforms like Facebook have collected data from their user base and used it in order to target
specific customers. However, the Cambridge Analytica scandal that leaked data of over 78
million users (Vizard et al. 2018) and the recent introduction of European General Data
Protection Regulation (European Commission 2018), may change the way advertisers collect
and optimise data in an attempt to focus promotion on relevant target audiences. Furthermore,
“power structure has been diluted” (Kotler et al. 2017:7) and Social Media platforms hold the
ability to influence people and change public perceptions. There have also been multiple claims
(Cadwalladr 2018, Reuters 2018, Scott 2018) that recent political events in Britain and the
United States of America have been influenced by non-government organisations who have
manipulated the data collected by Cambridge Analytica.
As with any industry, there are both strengths and weaknesses, however in the world of SMM,
brands must commit to sustaining and more importantly developing their relationship with
the digital users in order to secure long-term profits through returning customers and positive
word of mouth marketing known as referral (Dessart et al. 2015, Berman 2016).
2.4 Summary
As can be seen, the research has identified key strengths in the relation between Fast Fashion
and SMM. Both require quick response strategies. Predominantly, the nature of the fashion
industry indicates a mixture of both Traditional and SSM are considered effective. However,
research has not analysed of current research gap deriving from the limited academic
exploration of the effectiveness of SMM on Fast Fashion retailers. Therefore, this dissertation
will provide grounds for better understanding of the social media phenomenon and link it to
more recent stakeholder trends.

11. 10
Chapter Three| Methodology
3.1 Introduction, Aims & Objectives
Methodology “refers to the philosophical basis on which research is founded” (White 2000:20).
This chapter will explore selected data collection techniques along with justifying the reasons
behind the particular research and data sourcing within the project. This chapter will look into
the aims and objectives behind the research, following which, there will be a focus on the
design. Throughout the research methodology and data collection will be critically discussed.
The project aims to distinguish a clear connection between Fast Fashion and SMM. The
research aims to deliver in-depth understanding of how SMM has influenced Fast Fashion
through the use of relevant case studies.
Research objectives:
• To compare traditional fashion against Fast Fashion
• To compare traditional marketing against social media marketing (SMM)
• To explore the effects of social media marketing (SMM) and Fast Fashion on fashion
The objectives are closely linked with the research topic and aim to explore ideas through the
use of contextualised information.
3.2 Research Design
Secondary data will be used for the purpose of this research including both academic and non-
academic sources. In regard to academic sources, peer-reviewed accredited sources such as the
ones listed by the Association of Business Schools Academic Journal Guide (2015) will be
prioritised. In terms of reliability, secondary data may appear questionable because of the range
of the mixture of information. Hence, secondary research could be open to interpretation as
some of the materials may contain a degree of subjectivity, therefore should be assessed with
caution. Secondary data has been widely used by academics in relation to SMM as it is less time
consuming, easily accessible and more importantly collected by third-party professionals
thereby increasing the reliability of the research and ensuring accurate findings (Bradley 2007,
Hair & Lukas 2014, Malhotra et al. 2017). To ensure the reliability of findings, data will be
assessed using different sources.
Secondary data consists of both quantitative and qualitative data (Saunders et al. 2016). In
principle, both are used in within descriptive and explanatory research. Quantitative analyses
are based closely on quantifiable data and information, whilst qualitative studies qualitative
studies are based on interpretations of qualitative evidence in the form of sentences, arguments
or narratives (Blumberg et al. 2014:148). This project will mainly exploit both quantitative and
qualitative data sources to measure the impact of SMM on the fashion industry.
There are two main types of research philosophies (Saunders et al. 2016). Qualitative research
looks at developing an in-depth understanding of an idea whilst Quantitative research assesses
specific research questions or hypotheses (Zikmund et al. 2012). Although the nature of case
studies is qualitative, in order to support the findings, quantitative data would be useful in
practice because it provides grounds for numerical understanding in relation to ROI and brand
following. Equally, a thematic analysis would be used to analyse the case studies in order to

12. 11
give an understanding of individual case studies and provide grounds and assess them using
the same metrics.
Key findings section will explore the differences between Traditional Fashion and Fast Fashion
using quantitative data in order to outline similarities and differences. The section will then
analyse spending of two retailers on SMM and translate the secondary data into value based on
the ROI formula previously introduced by researcher Armstrong et al. (2016:590). The
quantitative findings will outline the significance of Fast Fashion retail and SMM through
measuring its value based on direct benefits in relation to leads and increases in sales margins.
Effects will be measured through analysing case studies discussions based around eight Fast
Fashion retailers: ASOS, Forever 21, H&M, Peacocks, Primark, Top Shop, Xcel Brands and
ZARA which are considered key retailers within the Fast Fashion retail industry (Arrigo 2017,
Chang & Fan 2017). Each case study article will be examined using three questions:
1. Does the retailer use social media to attract customers?
2. Has SMM had a positive effect on the business?
3. What impact does social media have on the business?
Based on results from question one, some retailers who do not use social media to attract
customers will be excluded from the sample as they will not be useful to this particular project.
The second and third question aim to analyse the effects and impact social media has on retail
businesses. Again, sources would be analysed and given an overview response. For question
three, in particular, direct quotes from the academic case studies will be in order to value the
impact social media has had on businesses through giving it a numerical value between 1 and
10. Similar methodology has been by researcher Scott (2017) when analysing the effectiveness
of social media for brands. Scott (2017) further justifies the need for placing a figure on
qualitative data as it allows for the creation of graphs and charts that could be used to visually
contextualise the secondary data.

13. 12
3.3 Research Philosophy and Ethics
Figure 2. Research Onion (Saunders et al. 2016:124)
Figure 2 showcases what is known as the "Research Onion" (Saunders et al. 2016:124), from
which you can observe four fundamental research theories; Positivism, Realism, Interpretivism
and Pragmatism. The inner circle includes Deductive and Inductive approaches, furthermore,
the Research Onion by Saunders et al. (2016:124) looks at seven types of strategies: Experiment,
Survey, Case Study, Action Research, Grounded Theory, Ethnography and Archival Research.
Going to further depth, the diagram outlines the three choices i.e. Mono method, Mixed
Method and Multi-method. Furthermore, the time horizons could be either cross-sectional or
longitudinal time horizons. Reaching to the techniques and procedure circle that focuses on
data collection and data analysis.
Out of the four, positivism appears to be more relevant to this research project. The theory has
been defined as observing the world through a collection of objective facts by researchers
Blumberg et al. (2014:265). They believe social world consists of “simple elements to which can
be reduced”. Positivist approach will be used during this research as discussion will be
established on the basis of qualitative information. The statements Blumberg et al. (2014:265)
made are appropriate for the analysis of the effectiveness of social media as part of this
dissertation as the sourced information will be objective facts based.
Raw qualitative data could be puzzling to the general public as it will mean very little to them
(Saunders et al. 2016). To compensate for this, the data will be analysed using a deductive
approach. A method of deduction will be used in concurrence with the theory presented so that
data can be analysed in a way that develops certain trends and changes. These trends and
changes relate to the theoretical frameworks which in turn allows a comparison to be

14. 13
performed. Qualitative data will be based on case studies from the Fast Fashion industry. The
analysis aims to analyse existing patterns and relationships between SMM and Fast Fashion.
In relation to strategies, the research will involve a mixture of case studies, archival research
and grounded theory in an attempt to investigate the overall topic. Zikmund et al. (2012)
support the use of a mixture of more than one strategies, outlining the value creation factor
and ability to compare a variety of sources of information. Referring back to the research onion
Saunders et al. 2016:124), mixed method would be most applicable to the project as it would
allow for the use of multiple strategies. In regard to time horizon, this dissertation is limited to
the use of secondary sources of information, thereby will be adapting cross-sectional time
horizon.
In terms of data collection and analysis. Primarily, quantitative sources of information are
going to be analysed and put into context, thereby aiming to meet research objectives one and
two: “To compare traditional fashion against Fast Fashion” & “To compare traditional
marketing against social media marketing (SMM)”. The third objective “To explore the effects
of social media marketing (SMM) and Fast Fashion on fashion” will be researched through
qualitative sources of information. The findings will then be critically discussed and analysed.
3.4 Ethics
Throughout the study, research will be carried out in an ethical manner, in line with Coventry
University’s Research Ethics Statement. In order to avoid bias, a wide range of sources will be
used. Both data and materials referenced as part of this study will comply with the Coventry
University Harvard Referencing style. This project has been approved and certified with
certification document P63070 which was obtained on 29th November 2017 following an
approval from dissertation supervisor and referrer (see Appendix 1).

15. 14
Chapter Four| Research & Findings
4.1 Introduction
The first part of this research will evaluate the quantitative differences between traditional and
Fast Fashion retail through analysing the budgets and effectiveness of SMM Fast Fashion
retailers ZARA and H&M. The second part will explore the qualitative information through
the use of retailer case studies. Both methods will contribute to further understanding of the
research topic as they will analyse retailers’ marketing strategies and views.
4.2 Key Findings
This subsection analyses a set of quantitative secondary sources in order to provide the reader
with a fundamental understanding of the differences between Traditional and Fast Fashion
Retail (see section 4.2.1) and Traditional Marketing compared to SMM (see section 4.2.2).
4.2.1 Traditional vs. Fast Fashion Retail
Satisfying objective one of making a direct comparison between traditional and Fast Fashion
case studies.
Aspect Traditional Fashion Fast Fashion
Store Shelf space 80%* 20%*
Consumer Gender Males & Females** Mostly Females**
Consumer Age All age groups*** 16-24***
Average Consumer
Income
Low to High Income earners** Low to medium income
earners**
Table 2. Key differences between Traditional Fashion and Fast Fashion
*(Mintel 2017b) **(Drew 2017) ***(Barnes & Lea-Greenwood 2006)
The findings in Table 2 outline the differences in relation to four significant aspects of both
models. Data from Mintel (2017b) outlined that retailers that sell Fast Fashion garments give
the Fast Fashion items 1/5th
of the total in-store shelf space, meaning that the remaining 4/5th
is normally occupied by traditional fashion goods. The data indicates retailers who sell Fast
Fashion clothing chose to prioritise traditional fashion over Fast Fashion. Hence, making the
commodities niche. Another indicator of niche market are the consumers. According to Drew
(2017), Fast Fashion focuses on mostly female consumers who have low to medium income.
Barnes & Lea-Greenwood (2006) add to the discussion by stating that Fast Fashion is more
restrictive as it aims to cover the age group of 16 to 24-year-olds, thereby excluding consumers
above and below the upper and lower quarters.

16. 15
4.2.2 Traditional Marketing vs. Social Media Marketing (SMM)
Retailer Total Sales
Revenue for 2017
Traditional
Marketing
SMM Cost of SMM
Investment
Zara 25.5bn USD* 0.2%* 0.1%* (25.5bn x 0.1%) =
2.55bn USD
H&M 17.2bn USD** 3.3%** 0.2%** (17.2bn x 0.2%) =
2.44bn USD
Table 3. Budget allocation on Traditional Marketing and SMM
* (Inditex 2018) **(H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB 2017)
According to Table 3, the two major Fast Fashion retailers ZARA and H&M reinvest no more
than 3.5% of their total sales revenue back into marketing. Specifically, SMM takes 0.1% of
ZARA’s total spending and H&M utilises 0.5% of its budget for SMM. As described in the
literature review, Fast Fashion retailer ZARA has been known to only advertise prior to the
release of seasonal collection and occasional seasonal sales promotion, whilst H&M has 11
times larger marketing budget. Findings show that the cost of investment is equivalent to
2.55bn USD for ZARA and 8.6bn USD for H&M.
Retailer Number of followers Number of sales Gain on Investment
ZARA 23.9 million*** 23,128* 3.1bn USD*
H&M 23.6 million*** 34,233** 3.5bn USD**
Table 4. Measurability on Return on Investment (ROI)
* (Inditex 2018) **(H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB 2017) ***(Statista 2017)
Using data from Table 4 and the Return on Investment (ROI) is calculated by the following
formula by Armstrong et al. (2016:590), ROI would be equivalent to:
Hence, the ROI for the two retailers would be:
• ZARA: (3,100,000,000-2,550,000,000)/2,550,000,000 = 0.21568627451
• H&M: (3,500,000,000 - 2,440,000,000)/2,440,000,000 =0.4344262295
The findings indicate that despite ZARA’s 300 000 follower advantage over H&M, the number
of sales number of sales is 32.4% higher. The calculation of Return on Investment indicates
H&M’s ROI is 101% higher, indicating the positive impact of having higher SMM budget.

17. 16
4.3 Effects & Discussion
For the qualitative part of the research section, eight Fast Fashion case studies will be analysed.
Firstly, the study will evaluate if the retailer is using social media to attract customers, secondly
the retailer would be observed in relation to the positive effects of SMM on the business and
finally, case studies will be compared in relation to the impact social media has had on the
business.
Each case of the eight retailer case studies (ASOS, Forever 21, H&M, Peacocks, Primark, Top
Shop, Xcel Brands and ZARA) have be analysed in order to answer the first research question.
Retailers who are not using social media to attract customers will be removed from the sample
as they would not be relevant to the analysis.
4.3.1 Does the retailer use social media to attract customers?
Case Studies Do you use social media to attract customers Value
ASOS Yes (Zhu & Chen 2015) 1
Forever 21 Yes (Lindsey-Mullikin & Borin 2017) 1
H&M Yes (Nadeem et al. 2015) 1
Peacocks No (Hubbard 2017) 0
Primark Yes (Arriaga et al. 2017) 1
Top Shop No (Zhu & Chen 2015) 0
Xcel Brands No (Swani et al. 2017) 0
ZARA Yes (Gamboa & Gonçalves 2014) 1
Table 5. Fast Fashion retailer use of social media to attract customers
The results indicate only five Fast Fashion retailers (ASOS, Forever 21, H&M, Primark and
ZARA) are using social media to attract customers. Out of those, further analysis was deducted
to identify weather SMM had a positive effect on the business in section 4.3.2
4.3.2 Has SMM had a positive effect on the business?
Case Studies Has SMM had a positive effect on the business? Value
ASOS Yes (Zhu & Chen 2015) 1
Forever 21 Yes (Lindsey-Mullikin & Borin 2017) 1
H&M Yes (Nadeem et al. 2015) 1
Primark Yes (Arriaga et al. 2017) 1
ZARA Yes (Gamboa & Gonçalves 2014) 1
Table 6. SMM effects on Fast Fashion retailers
Table 6 analysed focused on analysing whether SMM had a positive effect on each of the five
retailers. Results show that across the board, the Fast Fashion retailers have experienced the
benefits of SMM. Furthermore, section 4.3.3 will evaluate the specific view regarding the impact
SMM has had on each retailer.

18. 17
4.3.3 What impact does social media have on the business?
The research and findings chapter will focus on exploring the effects of SMM in the Fast
Fashion industry through the use of numerical and contextual data. In order to be able to make
a valid comparison, a variety of sources will be assessed on the same matrix, answers will be
placed on to a scale from 1 to 10 indicating least to most value worthy. Table 7 shows the impact
SMM has on Fast Fashion retailers according to five industry case studies.
Case Studies What impact does social media have on the business? Value
ASOS “brands enjoy unique benefits: followers not only censor
negative comments, focusing instead on spreading
positive tweets, but also defend the brand if it is attacked”
(Zhu & Chen 2015: 343)
9
Forever 21 “Rather than using a shotgun approach, companies
should monitor social media and product review sites to
see what content works best for generating positive word
of mouth.” (Lindsey-Mullikin & Borin 2017:478)
7
H&M “Consumers on Facebook are producing content in the
form of comments, likes, sharing posts, and uploading
photos, and if this content is read/monitored carefully by
e-tailers, they can come up with strategies (such as aiding
consumers with more informative and visual content) to
positively influence consumers’ attitude and loyalty
intention.” (Nadeem et al. 2015:438)
6
Primark “social networks can be seen as one of the most effective
strategies for any business in the fashion sector” (Arriaga
et al. 2017:517)
10
ZARA “relations are stronger for fans of the brand than for non-
fans” (Gamboa & Gonçalves 2014: 716)
7
Table 7. SMM impact on Fast Fashion retailers
According to Zhu & Chen (2015: 343), brands enjoy unique benefits hence the brand was given
a value of 9/10. Lindsey-Mullikin & Borin (2017:478) analysed Forever 21 and discovered SMM
content “generating positive word of mouth”, however, the case study did not perceive SMM
is suitable across all retailers, therefore it was given the value of 7. In regard to H&M, Nadeem
et al. (2015:438) analysed consumer attitude influence but did not identify the significance of
SMM, giving it above a medium value of 6. For Fast Fashion company Primark, Arriaga et al.
(2017:517) stated: “social networks can be seen as one of the most effective strategies”. Calling
SMM most effective strategy meant a value of 10. Ultimately, the case study Gamboa &
Gonçalves (2014: 716) on ZARA compared fans and non-fans and identified existing followers
have a stronger relationship with the brand than the general public. The case study showcased
the inability of ZARA to attract non-fans, thereby placing the value of 7.
The findings from section 4.3.3 suggest the Fast Fashion retailers consider SMM valuable in
terms of impact to their business. The lower quartile of the results was 6, upper quartile 10
and median 7.5 meaning retailers believe in the value of SMM.

19. 18
4.3.4 Discussion
The research and findings section analysed secondary data from three major Fast Fashion
retailers as well as academic views on the topic. Taking into account quantitative results, there
appears to be a positive relationship between SMM and ROI, as findings from section 4.2.2
outlined. In relation to qualitative outcomes, the case studies suggested five out of eight retailers
use SMM to attract customers and all five consider SMM to have a positive impact on their
business. Furthermore, section 4.3.3 looked into understanding the value of SMM in terms of
impact. Case studies on Primark (Arriaga et al. 2017:517) and (Zhu & Chen 2015: 343)
described a stronger value than H&M (Nadeem et al. 2015:438) and equally, Forever 21
(Nadeem et al. 2015:438) and ZARA (Gamboa & Gonçalves 2014: 716) achieved a score of 7.
Results confirmed that Fast Fashion retailers benefit from the use of SMM.
In terms of links between theory explored in the literature review and research & findings
chapter of this dissertation, there appears to be a clear link between Fast Fashion and SMM in
relation to the rate of responsiveness. As section 4.2.2 outlined, ROI is closely linked with the
budget allocation spent on SMM by a retailer. Results showed that a difference of 0.1% could
result in double the value of ROI. Furthermore, clear links to theory were present in relation to
section 4.3.3 where peer-reviewed case studies were compared in relation to the value of SMM
and more importantly the effectiveness of SMM on Fast Fashion retailers such like ZARA,
Forever 21 and Primark that did not only satisfy the aims of this research but more importantly,
analysed the niche research topic of SMM’s effectiveness on Fast Fashion.
In regard to fulfilling the research gap that had been identified as part of the literature review,
this project has provided a further understanding of the topic area through the use of secondary
qualitative and quantitative sources. Thereby, reducing the research gap and providing an
opportunity for further exploration to other researchers interested in the topic of Fast Fashion
and its relation to SMM in the twenty-first century social media driven retail world.
Overall, the research and findings section analysed relevant to the topic areas through utilising
available public secondary data sources and thus met the aims and objectives of the data
analysis chapter of this dissertation.

20. 19
Chapter Five| Conclusions, Limitations & Recommendations
The final chapter of this dissertation will draw up conclusions in relation to the three key
research objectives that were introduced in the methodology chapter. Knowledge and
information gained from the Literature review and Research & Findings chapters would be
used evaluate the discussion and thereby offer the reader a complete discussion based on the
final assumptions based the prove or disproves of assumptions data has given. Furthermore,
the conclusion will provide the reader with an overview of the limitations this study has met
and equally suggest further recommendations regarding potential future research that could be
carried out by academics studying the relationship between SMM and Fast Fashion. The
recommendations would be of equal value to retailers and more specifically, managers who are
willing to consider a spending larger proportion of their promotional budget on SMM
campaigns.
5.1 Conclusions
The academic summary compared views from widely recognised sources such as Kaplan &
Haenlein (2010) against current views from Felix, Rauschnabel & Hinsch (2017) and backed it
up by case studies from Virgin EMI Records (2018) and the ALS Association (2014).
Furthermore, the literature review defined the differences between traditional fashion and Fast
Fashion using peer-reviewed sources and representing findings in Table 1. Furthermore, the
review showed a comparison between the effects of online communication deriving from
traditional and SMM marketing through the use of case studies. Thereby, outlined the gap in
the literature that this dissertation aims to reduce. The methodology section justified the
methods which were used as part of the analytical part of this project. Methodology
foundations were based on research literature from Saunders et al. (2016), Blumberg et al.
(2014) and Zikmund et al. (2012). It was established that the research will be using both
qualitative and quantitative secondary data in an attempt to meet the three research objectives
that were clearly outlined in section 3.1. In regard to the research and findings chapter,
company reports from Inditex (2018) and Hennes & Mauritz AB (2017) as well as case studies
on eight Fast Fashion retailers were used for researching the differences between traditional
and Fast Fashion retail and Traditional and SMM. More importantly, the findings provided an
understanding of the effectiveness of SMM in relation to Fast Fashion thereby filling research
gaps previously analysed as part of the literature review.
The dissertation met all research objectives through the use of theoretical and practical based
secondary sources of information. In relation to the first objective “To compare traditional
fashion against Fast Fashion”, quantitative sources of information were analysed using research
from Mintel reports as well as in-house company reports and peer-reviewed journals. The
findings identified Fast Fashion appeals to a niche market segment of mainly female customers
aged 16 to 24 with a low to medium income. Secondary quantitative information was also used
for researching the second objective - “To compare traditional marketing against social media
marketing (SMM)”. Figures were not only stated but also applied within the context of adding
or reducing value. The figures were translated into ROI values through the use of formula
created by Armstrong et al. (2016:590). Findings suggested increase in SMM budget would be
beneficial to retailers. Ultimately, the third research objective – “To explore the effects of social
media marketing (SMM) and Fast Fashion on fashion” used qualitative sources of information,
in particular, case studies and findings outlined Fast Fashion retailers consider SMM valuable

21. 20
in terms of impact to their business. The lower quartile of the results was 6, upper quartile 10
and median 7.5 meaning retailers believe in the value of SMM.
5.2 Limitations
Whilst the dissertation explored and reduced the research gap, the project was limited to
solitary using secondary data. This prevented potential use of qualitative data in the form of
customised interviews which could have provided a wider understanding of the relationship
between SMM and Fast Fashion from a consumer perspective rather than retailers thereby
enhancing the value of the project. Additionally, it is important to point out that data used in
section 4.2 was dependent only on in-house annual reports, thereby the reports might contain
a certain degree of bias in favour of the retailer. Furthermore, the project was limited to using
historical as opposed to live data. The Cambridge Analytica scandal which was discussed as
part of the literature review, prevented use of secondary sources which were previously
affiliated with the social network thereby reducing the ability to preview data from API trusted
sources such as Buzzsumo. However, despite the constraints related to solitary using secondary
data sources and the given word count, the dissertation was able to meet all research objectives.
5.3 Recommendations
5.3.1 Future study recommendations
In regard to future study, primary research could offer more specific findings. Whilst collection
of primary data requires more resources such as time, money and third-party control, the study
would be beneficial to academia as it would be able to portray Fast Fashion consumers within
a specific target market from an academic point of view, thereby presenting opportunity for in
depth analysis of differences between male and female Fast Fashion consumers in relation to
how SMM influences their decisions and creates further demand to purchase Fast Fashion
garments.
Whilst the literature review provided useful insight into the differences between traditional
fashion and Fast Fashion are, further exploration into the way the dynamic SMM is changing
could be explored on annual basis. Thereby, this dissertation has been unable to provide a
specific insight into this, underlying there is still a research gap that could be fulfilled by further
research. Hence, it should be acknowledged that future work in this particular field would be
beneficial to providing in-depth and more importantly, direct analysis of the ways in which
Fast Fashion consumers are being influenced by SMM.
5.3.2 Recommendations for retail managers
In regard to future study, this dissertation highlighted a some of the benefits of using SMM to
promote Fast Fashion including the value of ROI. Findings suggest retail managers should
consider increasing their spending on SMM in order to attract additional custom from both
existing consumer base and non-followers. Considering the increase in-demand in the e-
commerce, retailers must implement a structured and consistent SMM strategy in order to
enable them to retain existing market shares and provide opportunities for further growth
within the Fast Fashion retail sector.

22. 21
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Zailskaitė-Jakštė, L. and Kuvykaitė, R. (2016) "Conceptualizing The Social Media
Communication Impact On Consumer Based Brand Equity". Trends Economics And
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Zhang, M. (2018) H&M Slammed For Photo Of Black Boy In 'Monkey' Hoodie, Mom Hits
Back [online] available from <https://petapixel.com/2018/01/11/hm-slammed-photo-black-
boy-monkey-hoodie-mom-hits-back/> [17 April 2018]
Zhu, Y. and Chen, H. (2015) "Social Media And Human Need Satisfaction: Implications For
Social Media Marketing". Business Horizons 58 (3), 335-345
Zikmund, W., Babin, B. and Carr, J. (2014) Business Research Methods. 9th edn. Mason, OH:
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Further readings
Arriaga, J., Domingo, D. and Silvente, V. (2017) "Facebook In The Low-Cost Fashion Sector:
The Case Of Primark". Journal Of Fashion Marketing And Management: An International
Journal 21 (4), 512-522

30. 29
Bain, M. (2018) One Chart Shows How Fast Fashion Is Reshaping The Global Apparel Industry
[online] available from <https://qz.com/825554/hm-zara-primark-and-forever-21-one-
euromonitor-chart-shows-how-fast-fashion-is-reshaping-the-global-apparel-industry/> [30
March 2018]
Berthon, P., Pitt, L. and Campbell, C. (2008) "Ad Lib: When Customers Create The Ad".
California Management Review 50 (4), 6-30
Bhardwaj, V. and Fairhurst, A. (2010) "Fast Fashion: Response To Changes In The Fashion
Industry". The International Review Of Retail, Distribution And Consumer Research 20 (1),
165-173
Brown, C. and Sekimoto, S. (2017) "Engaging Critical Pedagogy In The Classroom: A
Student-Centered Approach To Advertising Education". Journal Of Advertising Education 21
(2), 18-24
Christopher, M., Lowson, R. and Peck, H. (2004) "Creating Agile Supply Chains In The
Fashion Industry". International Journal Of Retail & Distribution Management 32 (8), 367-
376
Eid, R. and Trueman, M. (2002) "The Internet: New International Marketing Issues".
Management Research News 25 (12), 54-67
Fahy, J. and Jobber, D. (2012) Foundations Of Marketing. London [etc.]: McGraw-Hill Higher
Education
Farris, P. (2009) Marketing Metrics. Upper Saddle River (N.J.): Wharton School Publ.
Fernie, J. (2009) Logistics And Retail Management. London: Kogan Page
Fill, C. (2011) Essentials Of Marketing Communications. Harlow, England: Financial
Times/Prentice Hall

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Jobber, D. and Ellis-Chadwick, F. (2013) Principles And Practice Of Marketing. London:
McGraw-Hill publishing
Kapferer, J. and Bastien, V. (2011) The Luxury Strategy. London: Kogan Page
Miller, J. (2018) [online] available from <https://nypost.com/2018/01/11/mother-of-boy-in-
hms-coolest-monkey-ad-says-get-over-it/> [17 April 2018]
Mintel (2018) Promoting Fashion And Home Collaborations [online] available from
<http://academic.mintel.com/display/889383/?highlight#hit1> [30 March 2018]
Mintel (2017c) Womenswear - UK - May [online] available from
<http://academic.mintel.com/display/793321/> [4 April 2018]
Mo, Z. (2015) "Internationalization Process Of Fast Fashion Retailers: Evidence Of H&M
And Zara". International Journal Of Business And Management 10 (3)
Qualman, E. (2013) Socialnomics. Hoboken, NJ: Wiley
Safko, L. (2012) The Social Media Bible. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons
Schivinski, B. and Dabrowski, D. (2014) "The Effect Of Social Media Communication On
Consumer Perceptions Of Brands". Journal Of Marketing Communications 22 (2), 189-214
Strebinger, A. (2014) "Rethinking Brand Architecture: A Study On Industry, Company- And
Product-Level Drivers Of Branding Strategy". European Journal Of Marketing 48 (9/10),
1782-1804
Trusov, M., Bucklin, R. and Pauwels, K. (2009) "Effects Of Word-Of-Mouth Versus
Traditional Marketing: Findings From An Internet Social Networking Site". Journal Of
Marketing 73 (5), 90-102

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Appendices
Appendix One| Certificate P63070 of Ethical Approval