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Adventures in ancient grains _ Food Business News
- 1. Adventures in ancient grains
The unique flavors and textures of wholesome, underutilized crops like farro, buckwheat and barley have modern
appeal.
FoodBusinessNews.net, 6/20/2016
by Donna Berry
Robin Asbell, chef and
author of “The Whole Grain
Promise"
The unique flavors and textures of wholesome, underutilized
crops like farro, buckwheat and barley have modern appeal.
CHICAGO — Ancient grains add culinary adventure and
whole grain nutrition to all types of foods. They also provide a
backtobasics approach to food preparation and a
wholesomeness embraced by today’s consumers.
All grains are ancient.
“The term is all about
eating the oldest
varieties that haven’t
been bred and changed
by humans over the
thousands of years that
we have been growing
them,” said Robin
Asbell, chef and author
of “The Whole Grain
Promise.” “Consumer
distrust of the food
industry is part of the
hunger for ancient
grains,” she said.
Suzy Badaracco, president of San Franciscobased Culinary Tides Inc., said, “The term ancient grains is grounding; it lends an element of trust.”
This is important as consumers continue to move towards experimentation and exploration. They crave adventure while demanding
authenticity.
“Consumers are beginning to understand the significance of enjoying more whole grains that offer considerable enhanced nutritional value,”
said Miguel Reyna, president and chief executive officer of Western Foods in Woodland, Calif. “They are perceived as the opposite of modern
wheat and many are considered ‘superfoods’ due to their high level of vitamins, minerals, fiber and protein.”
Many ancient grains are also glutenfree, making them possible substitutes for wheat flours. When they fully replace wheat, they remove one of
the top eight allergens from a recipe.
Versatile flavors
While most culinary professionals know the names of ancient grains, many are unsure how to work them into everyday foods. There are many
opportunities to be creative.
Grainful's Steel Cut Sides are savory blends of steel cut oats,
spices and vegetables that may be turned into an entree with the
addition of meat.
Jeannine Sacco, cofounder of Ithaca, N.Y.based Grainful,
agreed.
“Ancient grains are
- 2. Jeannine Sacco, cofounder
of Grainful
Jason Ziobrowski, corporate
chef with InHarvest
“Ancient grains are
similar, yet different, to
the typical grains that do
a lot of the ‘heavy lifting’
for culinary
professionals,” she said.
“They offer up a whole
new set of textures and
flavor profiles. For a chef
that has only worked
with more common
grain varieties, it’s like
an artist discovering
new paint colors.”
Grains may be eaten whole or ground into flour. In addition, many come in flakes or are sprouted. Organic versions are becoming increasingly
more available.
“Sprouting of ancient grains adds further depth of flavor to these already flavorful grains,” said Nicholas Ahrens, product applications and chef
for Bay State Milling Co. in Quincy, Mass. “During the sprouting and drying process, there are many biological changes that enhance both flavor
and nutrition. Sprouted ancient grains have a reduction in perceived bitterness while enhancing the sweetness flavor profile. Sprouted ancient
grains hydrate more quickly thus reducing the cooking time when compared to conventional ancient grains.”
And consumers are eager to try all of the many varieties and forms of ancient grains, according to Mark Emery, product development chef for
Gordon Food Service, based in Wyoming, Mich.
“The challenge is to not disappoint them when they first sample a recipe,” Mr. Emery said. “Consumers are often unsure with what to expect. If
the initial dish was not prepared properly, the consumer might never try that specific grain again.”
Simplot's Good Grains premium blends feature ancient grains
like amaranth, khorasan wheat, black barley and red quinoa.
Colors and textures
“Apart from the healthfulness that ancient grains bring to any
dish, they also introduce colors and textures,” said Mike
Holleman, director of culinary development for Bemidji, Minn.
based InHarvest and chair of the advisory board for the
Whole Grains Council.
“If you can add them,
you’re going to stand
out,” said Jason
Ziobrowski, corporate
chef with InHarvest. “We
all know ancient grains
are gaining ground with
diners, as more and
more Americans are
interested in betterfor
you menus, cleaner
labels, sustainability
and authenticity. Getting
grains into recipes
without going against
the grain of the wellintentioned, yet lessadventuresome customer can be challenging.”
Some of his favorite applications include adding ancient grains into the stuffing base used in grilled or baked vegetables such as heirloom
- 3. Some of his favorite applications include adding ancient grains into the stuffing base used in grilled or baked vegetables such as heirloom
tomatoes, poblano peppers and portabella mushroom caps. Another suggestion is to add the grains into a batter mixed with seasonal veggies
to give a healthy spin to fritters and hush puppies.
“Prepared salads for the deli or salad bar are a great vehicle for ancient grains," Mr. Ziobrowski said. “Research certainly points to changing
consumer behavior about healthful choices. But the larger imperative is flavor and eye appeal.”
Adding grain salads that are well composed and colorful entice and invite diners. For consumers who are unsure about trying new grains, it
makes sense to use them in familiar recipes.
“I’ve helped food service operations set up stir fry stations where ancient grains take center stage right alongside many varied rice forms,” Mr.
Ziobrowski said. “Consumers know that grains are good for them and appreciate the opportunity to mix and match the familiar rice with an
unfamiliar grain. One of my favorite combinations is tricolor quinoa with shortgrain brown rice.”
The familiarity of oatmeal makes steelcut oats an interesting grain for use in familiar side dishes and prepared entrees.
“Grainful was actually born when I finished a pot of jambalaya, didn’t have white rice on hand and swapped in steel cut oats,” Ms. Sacco said.
“Since, I’ve learned that steel cut oats are a great canvas for bold flavor profiles such as curry, but subtle enough to complement cheese.”
Side dishes are a smart choice when experimenting with new ingredients, as consumers don’t feel like the commitment or investment is as
great as it is with an entree. That’s what Simplot Food Group, based in Boise, Idaho, is banking on with its new Simplot Good Grains. The frozen
precooked and seasoned blends of grains and vegetables are in portion packs small enough that consumers are willing to try. The line
includes an ancient grains and kale blend with brown and red rice, kale, red quinoa and black barley.
SK Food offers a puffed, crisp ingredient that may be used in
cereals, clusters, confections, salad toppings, snacks and yogurt
toppings.
Differentiating with the grain
“Culinary professionals are quickly learning how to
incorporate these grains into many dishes, adding texture,
flavor and variety. They are a great tool to add new life to old
dishes,” said Jonathan Dendauw, chef instructor, The French
Pastry School, Chicago.
Ancient grains are an easy way to differentiate and adopt
premium positioning in a crowded marketplace. For example,
McDonald’s and Starbucks made handmade yogurt, fruit and
granola parfaits a popular grabandgo food. But items are
similar, that is, until new grains are added.
SK Food International Inc., Fargo, N.D., a business unit of Healthy Food Ingredients, offers a puffed, crisp ingredient that may be used in
cereals, clusters, confections, salad toppings, snacks and yogurt toppings. The whole grain, glutenfree ingredient is milled and extruded from a
blend of ancient grains, including amaranth, quinoa, sorghum and millet.
InHarvest offers a blend of heirloom Kamut Khorasan bulgur
wheat, buckwheat groats, heirloom Colusari red rice, quinoa
flakes and brown flax seed.
InHarvest offers a blend of heirloom Kamut Khorasan bulgur
wheat, buckwheat groats, heirloom Colusari red rice, quinoa
flakes and brown flax seed.
“This can be used instead of granola in yogurt parfaits to
deliver additional protein and omega3 fatty acids, while also
adding flavor and sustained energy for busy diners,” Mr.
Holleman said.
- 4. Something as simple as breakfast cereal may be upgraded
with ancient grains, according to Don Trouba, director of
marketing for Ardent Mills, Denver. “They can be mixed with
something more familiar, like oatmeal or wheat for added
nutrition, or with sweet, roasted and nutty flavors,” he said.
The grains add visual interest to a morning bowl.
“Flour forms of glutenfree grains make great batters and breadings,” Mr. Emery said. “I like to add coarse grinds to traditional batters and
breadings, as well as glutenfree ones, to give the recipe a flavorful twist. Blending ancient grains allows for a signature flavor, and with fried
foods, the inclusion of ancient grains gives the product an element of healthfulness.”
Quinoa may be used as an alternative for breading on chicken.
Mr. Ahrens said, “Quinoa or amaranth flakes make a perfect
alternative for a traditional breading or panko breadcrumb.
The ancient grain flakes maintain a desirable crunch when
baked or fried.
“Ancient grain flours are finding their way into pasta. These
flours can replace some of the semolina to produce traditional
pasta noodles or the flours may be used as a direct
replacement of semolina to create glutenfree pastas, and
even wonton wrappers.”
Soaking buckwheat in fruit juice makes it easier to use in a
breakfast bowl.
A culinary lens
When not used as a coating or flour, ancient grains are often
soaked or boiled in liquid to make them palatable. Any liquid
works and may add to the overall flavor of the grain. For
example, soak buckwheat in fruit juice for use in a breakfast
bowl.
“Cooked buckwheat makes a tasty side dish when earthy
roots, aged dairy and herbs are added,” Ms. Asbell said. “One
of my favorites is with caramelized onions and Parmesan.
“Cooked barley is great as a side. Being neutral in flavor, it
absorbs lots of flavor. Cook it up in a flavorful stock and toss
in carrots, celery and lots of parsley.
“Cooked kamut is snappy on the outside and creamy on the
inside, buttery and chewy, and very high in protein,” she said.
“It won’t fall apart in a longsimmered soup or stew, making it a good prep item that you can cook a day or two ahead of time.”
Adding kamut to pumpkin bread works well, as the kamut brings a
sweet, nutty, rich, buttery taste.
Mr. Dendauw added, “A kamut quick bread with pumpkin is
great as the kamut brings a sweet, nutty, rich, buttery taste.”
Teff has a sweet, molasseslike flavor. When hydrated, it gives
off a gelling, creamy starch, while being a bit crunchy, and
may be used to thicken soups and stews. The bonus is it adds
flavor and nutrition, as it’s a concentrated source of calcium.
- 5. “I’ve added it successfully to vegetarian chili and African
spiced vegetable stews,” Ms. Asbell said. “It can be pureed
into a creamy soup, as well, preferably one where the color
won’t matter, such as pumpkin.”
When it comes to color, purple corn may liven up any food.
“Whole kernels can be cooked and used in a side dish,” said Jennifer Tesch, chief marketing officer at SK Food International Inc. “We’ve used
flour and coarsely ground formats to encrust baked chicken breast.”
Purple corn, though more accurately identified as an ancient crop than a grain, has its origins in the Andean community — Bolivia, Colombia,
Ecuador, Peru and Venezuela—and thus is used in many traditional dishes.
“It pairs well with heat,” Ms. Tesch said. “We’ve made corn meal scones with freezedried purple corn and pepper jack cheese.”
Purple corn may liven up any food with its vibrant color.
A rule of thumb to follow when pairing ingredients is “what
grows together, goes together,” according to Mr. Ahrens.
“Pork and jalapeno pepperfilled empanadas made with
sprouted quinoa flour are one of my alltime favorite dishes.
The sprouted quinoa flour adds an extra crispness to these
savory pastries and pairs perfectly with fresh pico de gallo.”
Ms. Asbell added, “Most chefs don’t know that amaranth is
part of the spinach family. That’s why it goes well with greens,
such as spinach and chard, and you can also buy edible
amaranth leaves sometimes in season. Amaranth makes a
great savory porridge, piled high with greens and foods such
as eggs and tofu.”
Grains don’t always need to be hydrated. “Uncooked
buckwheat groats add nutrition and crunch when mixed into cookie batters,” Ms. Asbell said.
Toasting adds another layer of flavor. “Like in traditional pilaf preparations, toasting of ancient grains add flavor and improves final texture,” Mr.
Emery said.
Rustic farro
Farro is an heirloom Italian grain, which often goes by the name einkorn and spelt in other countries. Whatever the name, it’s gaining traction in
the culinary world.
Farro is an heirloom Italian grain.
“The beauty of farro is its versatility and flavor,” Mr. Ziobrowski
said. “It’s creamy and nutty, and just fantastic to work with.”
“Farro brings a betterforyou element to the Italian classic,
risotto,” Mr. Holleman said. “The farro is cooked, then stirred
into sautéed mushrooms and onion. Add garlic, chicken,
white wine, and finish the dish with cream, seasoning and
Asiago cheese.”
Zoës Kitchen, Plano, Texas, recently incorporated farro into its
menu. A Mediterranean salad features ribbons of raw
zucchini and squash, spinach leaves, roasted tomato pesto
- 6. farro, lupini beans, cherry tomato bruschetta, Parmesan all
dressed with Calabrian pepper vinaigrette.
“Once you go whole grain, and learn to appreciate the tastes, textures and colors of grains, you can detect the nuances of difference between
particular varieties,” Ms. Asbell said.
“Learning to pair grains with other foods is an essential skill for today’s chef, just as vegetable cookery is now a growing trend. Who knows,
tasting ancient grains may become as trendy as tasting wine or cheese.”
Buckwheat is a glutenfree, dark red grain with an intense roasted,
nutty flavor.
Ancient crops: A culinary guide
Amaranth is an Aztec pseudocereal that is high in fiber and
protein, as well as multiple vitamins and minerals. It has a
sticky, gelatinous texture and a nutty, slightly earthy and spicy
flavor with peppery notes. It cooks up like a thick, creamy
porridge with a bit of crunch.
Barley is a glutencontaining grain that packs in the fiber,
some of which is the form of betaglucan, a soluble fiber with
recognized health benefits. Mildly flavored, the pearled
variety is chewy, while whole barley is very chewy.
Buckwheat is not part of the wheat family and is glutenfree.
It’s a dark red grain with an intense roasted, nutty flavor.
Einkorn, farro and spelt are basically the same grain. Names vary because of country of origin and genetic distinctions of wheat varieties.
Because of the grain’s lowgluten content, it is often favored by those who cannot tolerate wheat. However, because of the lowgluten content,
the grain is not typically used in bread production. It contains about 40% more protein and 15% less starch than commercial wheat, and is
abundant in B vitamins and trace minerals, including iron. It has a nutlike flavor with a hint of sweetness, making it very versatile.
Freekeh is a highfiber and highprotein young green wheat that has been toasted and cracked. It has a chewy texture with a smoky flavor.
Kamut is a wheat with about 30% more protein and more healthful fatty acids than traditional wheat. Though it’s not gluten free, some people
who are allergic to wheat can tolerate kamut. It has a chewy texture and buttery, nutty, sweet flavor.
Millet is a glutenfree, seedlike grain that has a bland, neutral
flavor and cooks up like rice.
Millet is a tiny, glutenfree, seedlike grain that is easy to
digest. It has a bland, neutral flavor and cooks up like rice.
Oats are inherently glutenfree; however, commercially rolled
oats are often processed in facilities with wheat, making
contamination possible. The steelcut version is considered
the “ancient” variety, as it is minimally processed and has a
coarser texture and nuttier flavor than rolled oats.
Purple corn is cultivated from an ancient species of Andean
purple corn. Rich in anthocyanins, polyphenols and
flavonoids, purple corn can be used in the same manner as
other corn ingredients and has the same corn flavor and
texture.
Quinoa is a tiny, diskshaped seed that is recognized as the only pseudograin containing all of the essential amino acids in a healthful
balance, rendering it a complete protein. It has an unusually high ratio of protein to fiber and is high in potassium. This versatile light grain has a
