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Alternate Varietals
Brian Gruber, Winemaker
Quady North Winery &
Barrel 42 Custom Winecraft
We worked with 28 “alternative” varietals in
2019
• Albariño
• Barbera
• Cabernet Franc
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Counoise
• Dolcetto
• Grenache Blanc
• Grenache Noir
• Malbec
• Marsanne
• Merlot
• Mourvèdre
• Muscat (Early)
• Muscat (Orange)
• Petite Sirah
• Petit Verdot
• Pinot Gris
• Pinot Meunier
• Primitivo
• Riesling
• Roussanne
• Sangiovese
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Syrah
• Tempranillo
• Vermentino
• Viognier
• Zinfandel
Why alternate varietals?
• To be ahead of a changing climate
• To grow a variety best suited to a site
• To meet consumer demand
• To offer breadth in your portfolio
• To have more stories to tell (marketing)
• Because it is fun and keeps work interesting
A Strategy for Choosing Varietals
1 2 3
Assess
your site
Assess
your
market
Consider
what
appeals to
you
Assess Your Site
• Evaluate your climate
• Growing degree days
• Frost-free season length
• Test your soil
• Consider wind and direction of sun exposure
• Determine water availability
• Gather information from other growers with similar sites
• Consider leveraging consultants for input
• Based on the assessment, create a list of varietals that match your
site profile
Assess Your Market
• Look at logical extensions of your brand
• Evaluate market trends
• Consider what style of wine will appeal
• Gather input from key buyers
• Assess what others are already doing
• Determine how much being “first” or “new” matters to you
• Based on the assessment, create a list of varietals that match the
market and where you want to play in it
Consider What Appeals to You
• What gets you interested?
• What keeps work fresh and fun?
• What might you have a connection with?
• Based on the assessment, create a list of varietals that match what
you like most
Find the Varietals that Fall in the Sweet Spot
What I like
What
grows well
on site
What the
market
wants
Winemaker and
market aligned, but
lesser wine quality
Wine quality and market
aligned, but dispassionate
winemaker
Best wine, but hard to sell
Winemaker, fruit
quality and market
aligned!
Challenges and Opportunities
• Challenges
• Sourcing material can be hard to find or non-existent
• How much do you plant?
• Plant too little and you might hamper growth of a successful program
• Plant too much and may have grapes you can’t sell
• Different varietals have different farming needs
• Opportunities:
• Grafting can allow nimble changes in just one year
• Can often purchase fruit to test the market and learn nuances of winemaking
A Strategy for Winemaking with Alternate
Varietals
1 2 3
Set
stylistic
goals
Build a plan Innovate,
Iterate &
Improve
Set Stylistic Goals
• Start with the idea that you can make good wine from anything if you
have good fruit to work with
• Taste examples of other producer’s wines, including global
benchmarks
• Tie back to what you think the market is looking for
• Determine your own preferences
• Evaluate what your site is capable of delivering
• Set your stylistic goals
• Communicate with grower to deliver fruit best able to meet your
goals
Build a Plan
• Discuss nuances of a grape with other experienced winemakers
• Evaluate barrel options (if relevant) including new coopers and
different grain/forest/toast combinations
• Determine desired fermentation temperature curve to achieve style
• Consider alternative fermentation methods and vessels
• Keep good records
Innovate, Iterate & Improve
• There is always a learning curve with a new varietal, both in the
vineyard and in the winery
• Evaluate new wine at every step, from vineyard through finished
product
• Determine what worked and what didn’t
• Share wine with other professionals to gather input
• Come up with new ideas to improve the next version
• Repeat process, likely over many years (if not forever)
Challenges and opportunities
• Opportunities:
• Experimentation leads to continued learning
• Keeps winemaking interesting
• May provide learnings applicable to other wines
• Alternate varietals may blend with other wines in your portfolio
• To solve chemistry problems
• To create unique new blends
• Challenges:
• There may be failures mixed with successes
• Long cycles can slow learning and ability to dial wines in quickly
• Have to learn new winemaking techniques variety by variety
• You become a winemaking “generalist” as you work with more and more alternate
varietals
• Added complexity
Contact
• Brian Gruber: brian@quadynorth.com

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2020 Oregon Wine Symposium | Farming and Making Alternative Varieties for a Changing Climate and Maturing Market - Brian Gruber

  • 1. Alternate Varietals Brian Gruber, Winemaker Quady North Winery & Barrel 42 Custom Winecraft
  • 2. We worked with 28 “alternative” varietals in 2019 • Albariño • Barbera • Cabernet Franc • Cabernet Sauvignon • Counoise • Dolcetto • Grenache Blanc • Grenache Noir • Malbec • Marsanne • Merlot • Mourvèdre • Muscat (Early) • Muscat (Orange) • Petite Sirah • Petit Verdot • Pinot Gris • Pinot Meunier • Primitivo • Riesling • Roussanne • Sangiovese • Sauvignon Blanc • Syrah • Tempranillo • Vermentino • Viognier • Zinfandel
  • 3. Why alternate varietals? • To be ahead of a changing climate • To grow a variety best suited to a site • To meet consumer demand • To offer breadth in your portfolio • To have more stories to tell (marketing) • Because it is fun and keeps work interesting
  • 4. A Strategy for Choosing Varietals 1 2 3 Assess your site Assess your market Consider what appeals to you
  • 5. Assess Your Site • Evaluate your climate • Growing degree days • Frost-free season length • Test your soil • Consider wind and direction of sun exposure • Determine water availability • Gather information from other growers with similar sites • Consider leveraging consultants for input • Based on the assessment, create a list of varietals that match your site profile
  • 6. Assess Your Market • Look at logical extensions of your brand • Evaluate market trends • Consider what style of wine will appeal • Gather input from key buyers • Assess what others are already doing • Determine how much being “first” or “new” matters to you • Based on the assessment, create a list of varietals that match the market and where you want to play in it
  • 7. Consider What Appeals to You • What gets you interested? • What keeps work fresh and fun? • What might you have a connection with? • Based on the assessment, create a list of varietals that match what you like most
  • 8. Find the Varietals that Fall in the Sweet Spot What I like What grows well on site What the market wants Winemaker and market aligned, but lesser wine quality Wine quality and market aligned, but dispassionate winemaker Best wine, but hard to sell Winemaker, fruit quality and market aligned!
  • 9. Challenges and Opportunities • Challenges • Sourcing material can be hard to find or non-existent • How much do you plant? • Plant too little and you might hamper growth of a successful program • Plant too much and may have grapes you can’t sell • Different varietals have different farming needs • Opportunities: • Grafting can allow nimble changes in just one year • Can often purchase fruit to test the market and learn nuances of winemaking
  • 10. A Strategy for Winemaking with Alternate Varietals 1 2 3 Set stylistic goals Build a plan Innovate, Iterate & Improve
  • 11. Set Stylistic Goals • Start with the idea that you can make good wine from anything if you have good fruit to work with • Taste examples of other producer’s wines, including global benchmarks • Tie back to what you think the market is looking for • Determine your own preferences • Evaluate what your site is capable of delivering • Set your stylistic goals • Communicate with grower to deliver fruit best able to meet your goals
  • 12. Build a Plan • Discuss nuances of a grape with other experienced winemakers • Evaluate barrel options (if relevant) including new coopers and different grain/forest/toast combinations • Determine desired fermentation temperature curve to achieve style • Consider alternative fermentation methods and vessels • Keep good records
  • 13. Innovate, Iterate & Improve • There is always a learning curve with a new varietal, both in the vineyard and in the winery • Evaluate new wine at every step, from vineyard through finished product • Determine what worked and what didn’t • Share wine with other professionals to gather input • Come up with new ideas to improve the next version • Repeat process, likely over many years (if not forever)
  • 14. Challenges and opportunities • Opportunities: • Experimentation leads to continued learning • Keeps winemaking interesting • May provide learnings applicable to other wines • Alternate varietals may blend with other wines in your portfolio • To solve chemistry problems • To create unique new blends • Challenges: • There may be failures mixed with successes • Long cycles can slow learning and ability to dial wines in quickly • Have to learn new winemaking techniques variety by variety • You become a winemaking “generalist” as you work with more and more alternate varietals • Added complexity
  • 15. Contact • Brian Gruber: brian@quadynorth.com