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PRODUCT LIFECYCLE MANAGEMENT FOR APPAREL
1. 1
NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT |
PRODUCTDEVELOPMENT
“Shaping Winning Style and Design” “Leading Forecast for Every Stage of the Chain”
PRODUCT LIFECYCLE MANAGEMENT FOR APPAREL
The fashionmarketischaracterized byrapidchanges,where casesof successandfailure canoftenbe
linkedtoorganizational flexibility.Thesemarketsexhibittypical characteristics:shortlifecycles,high
volatility,lowpredictabilityandhighimpulsepurchasing
It ispossible toclassifyfashionmarketsaccordingtoprice andcompetitive strategiesusingapyramidof
5 marketsegments:Couture,Prêt-à-porter,Diffusion,Bridge andMass.
These segmentscanbe describedasfollows[2]:
PRODUCT
DEVELOPMENT
NEWS
COLOUR &
MATERIAL
DESIGN AND
TECHINICALS
BUYING &
SOURCING
HINTS
CREATIVE
DIRECTION
THNINK TANK
2. 2
NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT |
• Couture(at the top of the pyramid) represents luxuryglobal brandsandtheirneedto
communicate productqualityandvalue.
• Prêt-à-porterbrandsfocus onseasonal products,creativityandhighprices.The mainCritical
SuccessFactors (CSFs) are productinnovation,qualityandbrandimage.Thismarketsegment
includesluxurybrandsnotdependentonfashionthatoffermore classicproductsandcarry-
over.
• Diffusion includesindustrialbrandswiththe same CSFsasthe previoussegment.
• Bridge regardsproductsthat bridge betweenMassand Diffusion: the CSFsare linkedtothe
abilityforservingthe marketatthe right time.Service levelismore importantthanstyle.
• Massis the bottomof the pyramidasthe leastcustomizedmarket:bigvolumesand
distributioncapillarityare the mostimportantcharacteristics.
CRITICAL SUCCESS FACTORS (CSF’S)
The main Critical Success Factors (CSFs) are productinnovation,qualityandbrandimage.CSF’shasa
possible correlationsamongcritical successfactorsalongwithotherdimensions(process,organization
and knowledgemanagement).The term'critical successfactors’ considersall productdesignrelated
activitiesandelementsthatallow acompanytobe competitive inaspecificmarketsegment. Increasing
global competitionandpressure,whichrequiresimprovedproductqualityandinnovation,reduce
productcosts and time-to-market.
The CSF representthe characteristicsof the productsproducedbythe companiesthatinfluencesthe
customerinthe choice of the itemto buy.The elementsof timeliness,costsandinnovationare other
importantfactors.In particular,timelinessismandatory,due to the fashionmarketconstraints,inwhich
productshave to be on the shelvesatthe beginningof eachseason.
3. 3
NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT |
NEW PRODUCTDEVELOPMENT(NPD):
NPDis a dynamicprocesscharacterizedbya highseasonal demand,whichdependsonthe seasonal
nature of fashionproducts.The entire NPDprocessrunsatleasttwotimesperyear,one time for each
seasonandwithshort Time-To-Market.Studyisbothexploratoryandexplanatory. The development
processisstronglycollaborative.Tasksandactivitiesare oftendone inparallel (ConcurrentEngineering)
by multidisciplinaryandmultifunctional teams.
NPDis a comprehensive process,whichstartsfrom.
(i) Design,
(ii) Modelling/Prototyping(torealizethe demonstrationproductstobe shownatthe fashion
fairs),
(iii) Detailedengineering,
(iv) Material sourcingandthenendswith
(v) Production anddistribution - The productionphase usuallylasts3-4months
Accordingto Daton(2002), the apparel productdevelopmentprocesswasdividedintofourparts:
(1), researchphase (collecttrendinformationfromvarioussourcese.g.trendservices, shoppingfrom
overseasandlocal markets),
(2),line conceptualization(identifyfabric, silhouettes,colors,details andmakingprototype samples),
(3),line visualizationand evaluation(ordersreadytobe placedbyretailer),
(4),technical development(continuous sample review toperfectapparel sizing).Final approval islastly
obtainedinorderto commence massproduction.
Sample DevelopmentinInternal Sample-makingDepartmentSource
4. 4
NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT |
PRODUCTDEVELOPMENTPHASES:
COSTOF SAMPLEDEVELOPMENT
Expensesincludedinthe developmentof asample were fabricordering,machineset-up,laborcostsfor
developmentanddelivery.2-3timesof reworkisusuallydemandedbefore derivingata sample the
designerissatisfiedwith.
RANGE
NO OF
PRODUCTS
COST ESTIMATED
INNERWEAR 4 20 LAKH
CASUALWEAR 4 20 LAKH
ACTIVEWEAR 2 10 LAKH
NIGHTWEAR 1 5 LAKH
SHORTS & ¾ THS 1 5 LAKH
CollectionPlanning
•Collection
Planning
•Reosurce
Planning
•Calendering
•Line/Assortment
Planning
•Storyboard
Product
development
•Product
devlopment
•Collaborative
productdesign
•Material
management
•Colour
Management
•Critical Path
Pre-Production
•Sourcing
•costing
•quotations
•sampling
•Document
Managment
•Project
Management
5. 5
NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT |
TIME OF SAMPLEDEVELOPMENT
Sample developmentprocessreachinganapproval forproductioncouldtake 4 to 6 monthsusinga
domesticsample department.
Figure 1 : Process flow ; Figure 2 Time frame
IDEAANDRESEARCH
Understand
marketing
concept
Search
environment for
information
Observe
consumer
Compile color
library
Analyze
competitor
garments
LINE
CONCEPTUALIZATION
Sketch garment
ideas
Evaluate and
specify fabrics
Approve color
Approve patterns
Decide optimum
design solution
Conduct slush
meeting
PREPARATIONFOR
PRODUCTION
Produce sewn
samples
Create
specifications and
sample package
Evaluatesew
ability of fabric
and trim
Test textilepiece
good
Createproduction
patterns
Approve maker
MARKETPREPARATION
Prepare duplicate
or road samples
for market
Verify
specification
correctness
Evaluate sample
appearance
Review marketing
strategies with
sales staff
Ship to market
6 Months
beforesales
to customer
IDEA AND
RESEARCH
5 months
beforesales
to customer
LINE
CONCEPTUAL
IZATION
4 months
beforesales
to customer
PREPARATIO
N FOR
PRODUCTIO
N
3 months
beforesales
to customer
MARKET
PREPARATIO
N