A General Account of Cutting, Layering, Grafting & Budding

1. HORTICULTURAL PRACTICES:
CUTTING, LAYERING, GRAFTING
& BUDDING
Dr. Saji Mariam George
Associate Professor,
Assumption College Autonomous
Changanacherry

2. HORTICULTURAL PRACTICES
Horticulture – The science of cultivating,
processing and marketing of
• Fruits (Pomology)
• Vegetables (Olericullture)
• Ornamental plants(Floriculture)

3. VEGETATIVE PROPAGATION IN
HORTICULTURE
• A form of asexual reproduction
• Vegetative parts – stem, leaf, root etc. are the
propagules.
• Goal (Objective) - Production of clones –
identical in genotype to a single source plant
METHODS
1.Natural – rhizome, bulbs, corms, runners,
suckers, offsets, bulbils etc.
2. Artificial – cutting, grafting, budding, layering
etc.

4. CUTTING
• A part of the plant which will produce roots and
eventually a new plant.
• Easy, convenient method
• Most commonly used method in Horticulture.
TYPES
• Stem cutting, leaf cutting, root cutting

5. STEM CUTTINGS
i) Stem – tip cutting
• 3 inches long leafy stem tip is used –
Lantana, Duranta, Phyllanthus

6. Image: © Copyright 2000-2019 www.The Gardener's Almanac

7. STEM CUTTINGS…
ii) Stem- section cutting
• pieces of stems with at least one bud is used
– Rose, Hibiscus, Tapioca, Croton, Coleus.
Stem cuttings - Herbaceous cuttings, Softwood
cuttings, Semi – hardwood cuttings,
hardwood cuttings

8. HERBACEOUS CUTTINGS
• 7.5 – 12.5 cm long terminal leafy portion of
vigorous shoots of herbaceous plants.
• Leaves are removed from the basal portion
• Soft, tender, succulent.
• Cuttings should be prepared just before they
are placed in the rooting medium
e.g. Coleus , Sweet potato, Dahlia

9. SOFT – WOOD CUTTINGS
• Cuttings are made from soft, succulent, non –
lignified new growth of some woody plants.
• 10 -15 cm long terminal portion with terminal
buds is cut.
• Some leaves should be retained.
• Treatment with auxins IBA or NAA is beneficial.

10. SEMI-HARDWOOD CUTTINGS
• 7.5 to 15 cm long cuttings are taken from
growing terminal shoots -partially matured ,
slightly woody .
• Leaves from the basal portion should be
removed , but the terminal leaves are
retained.
• Treating cuttings with auxins before planting
is beneficial.
• Shade and humidity are essential for rooting.

11. HARDWOOD CUTTINGS
• Cuttings made from past season’s growth or
wood – mature, lignified .
• If rooting is easy, this is the cheapest and
easiest method.
• 1 year old shoot is preferred , but in some
cases 2 year old wood is used.
• Cuttings may be 10 – 30 cm , diameter – 1 to
2.5 cm
E.g. –Pomegranate, Mulberry, Fig, Gooseberry.

12. TYPES OF HARDWOOD CUTTINGS
1. Straight cutting- does not include any
older wood at the base.
Most commonly used type.
2. Heel cutting - A small piece of older wood
is retained.
3. Mallet cutting - A small section of the
branch of an older wood is retained.

13. Image: © 2020 SlidePlayer.com Inc.

14. LEAF CUTTINGS
• Whole leaf – Saintpaulia (African violet)-
matured leaves with petioles are used for
making leaf cuttings.
• Leaf petiole

15. Saintpaulia (African violet)
Image:https://plantcaretoday.com/

16. Saintpaulia (African violet)
Image: https://www.pinterest.com/

17. Begonia
• In Begonia, an incision is made on the large
veins of a thick fleshy leaf.
Image : http://www.sungardening.co.uk/

18. Image: http://gardentia.net/

19. Sansevieria
• Leaf sections - 5 to 10 cm long leaf sections
• New plants may develop within a month at
the base of the leaf cutting.
Image:ourhouseplants.com

20. LEAF BUD CUTTINGS
• Consists of a leaf blade, petiole and a small
piece of stem (1 to 1.5 cm )containing a
dormant axillary bud.
• Well developed leaves from current season’s
growth are used.
• This method is valuable in cases where
propagating materials are scarce.
e.g. Lemon, Camelia.

21. LEAF BUD CUTTING
Image:https://horticulture.tekura.school.nz/

22. Image: https://horticulture.tekura.school.nz/

23. Image: https://horticulture.tekura.school.nz/

24. Bryophyllum
Image :https://www.quora.com/

25. ROOT CUTTINGS
• Easy method
• Root cuttings are taken in early or late winter
or early spring when the roots are well
supplied with reserve carbohydrates.
• In root cuttings, adventitious shoots are
regenerated.
E.g. Guava, Apple, Pear, Bread fruit tree.

26. ROOT CUTTINGS

27. ROOT CUTTINGS…
Image:http://gardentia.net/

28. ROOT INITIATION IN CUTTINGS
• The primary regenerative process required –
adventitious root formation.
• Plants with preformed root initials( Latent root
initials) root rapidly. (Latent root initials -
develop naturally on stems while they are still
attached to the parent plant , remain dormant
until cuttings are made and placed in suitable
rooting medium . In old trees of apple cultivars,
preformed latent roots cause swelling called
burr knots )

29. ROOT INITIATION IN CUTTINGS…
• Wound – induced roots – adventitious roots
develop in response to wounting after the
cutting is made.
• The roots are formed de novo .

30. Factors influencing regeneration of
adventitious roots
• Carbohydrate reserve- Cuttings from well
nourished plants with carbohydrate reserve-
more successful.
• A high C/N ratio favour rooting
• Optimum moisture conditions
• Loose, well drained rooting medium with
plenty of Oxygen content.
• Diffuse sunlight

31. Factors influencing regeneration of
adventitious roots…
• Age of the plant from where the cutting is made
– cuttings from young plants root in higher
percentages than cuttings taken from older,
mature plants.
• Cuttings taken from lateral shoots often root
better than cuttings from terminal shoots.
• Delicate stems and more mature cuttings root
only poorly.
• Seasons – rooting vary during different seasons.

32. Factors influencing regeneration of
adventitious roots…
• Auxin level in plants – treating cuttings with auxins
increase rooting.
• IBA – most effective, non- toxic over a wide
concentration range.
• NAA
• IAA
• Mixture of auxins – more beneficial –IBA & IAA; IBA &
NAA.
Cuttings from woody, difficult –to- root species should
be treated with higher auxin concentration.
Tender, succulent and easily rooted species should be
treated with lower – strength formulations.

33. ROOTING HORMONES
• Powder
• Concentrated liquid formulations
Examples:
Indian Gardening All Purpose Root hormone
Sterling Rootomax
Fast Roots
Dip ‘N’Grow
The Garden store RooTer.

35. METHODS OF APPLICATION OF
ROOTING HORMONES
1. Quick dip method (Concentrated solution dip –
500 – 10,000 ppm) – 0.05 – 1.0 % for 3-5 sec.
2. Prolong dip method(Dilute solution soaking
method) – 20 ppm for easily rooting cuttings
200 ppm for more difficult – to- root cuttings.
Basal part , 2.5cm – 1 inch of cuttings is soaked
in a dilute solution of the material for about 24
hours just before they are inserted into the
rooting medium. Not favoured commercially.

36. METHODS OF APPLICATION OF
ROOTING HORMONES…
3. Powder (Talc) Method – Fresh cuts are made
at the base of the cuttings shortly before
they are dipped into the powder. Tap the
cuttings to remove excess hormone.
4. Paste method – Take freshly prepared
cuttings and apply a small quantity of paste
at the cut end.

37. METHODS OF APPLICATION OF
ROOTING HORMONES…
• Insert the cuttings 1/3 to ½ their length to a
suitable medium for rooting.
• Avoid direct sunlight
• Keep the rooting medium moist until the
cuttings have rooted.
• When cuttings have developed several strong
roots, they can be transplanted into soil.

38. ROOTING MEDIA
• Coarse sand
• Vermiculite- hydrated mineral , Aluminium- Iron-
Magnesium silicates.
Increases water and nutrients retention
Aerates the soil.
• Perlite – Glassy silicate (SiO2) of volcanic origin –
used as non-organic additive to aerate the
medium
• Any other material.

39. ROOTING MEDIUM : VERMICULITE

40. ROOTING MEDIUM : PERLITE

41. LAYERING
eg. Guava, Litchi, Apple, Sapota, Cashew plant
• Stem is induced to root while it is still
attached to the parent plant.
• Rooted stem - a layer.
• Layers removed from the parent plant and
used for propagation.
• Oldest technique – used to propagate many
woody shrub and tree species.
• Reliable and easy method - in species which
are difficult - to - root on cuttings

42. ROOT FORMATION IN LAYERING
• Root formation is stimulated by various stem
treatments –
• Girdling
• Incision and bending of the stem
This cause an interruption in the downward
translocation of organic substances –
carbohydrates, auxins and other growth factors
from the leaves and shoot tips. These materials
accumulate near the point of treatment and
rooting occurs at the point of interruption.

43. GIRDLING

44. ROOT FORMATION IN LAYERING…
• Application of root – promoting substances –
IBA – profuse rooting – applied as a
powder/paste/solution.
• Light exclusion in the rooting zone – in hard –
to- root clones.
• Covering the growing shoots by the rooting
medium produces etiolation - the greatest
stimulus to root induction.

45. ETIOLATION
Exclusion of light – as a part of propagation
process
promotes adventitious root initiation in stem
tissues – reduces the photodecomposition of
naturally occurring auxins which favours root
initiation process.
• Reduction in mechanical tissues
• Reduction in lignification

46. ETIOLATION…
• Reduced cell differentiation
All these enhance the potential for root
initiation.

47. LAYERING…
• When root formation is complete, the layers
are cut from the mother plant and are potted
in suitable containers
• Keep them in a cool, humid place for further
growth.

48. TYPES OF LAYERING
Image : https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/

49. SIMPLE LAYERING
• Easiest and most efficient method
• Select a healthy, dormant, one year old, flexible branch
towards the base of the plant ,nearer to the ground , 50 – 60
cm.
• Bend the branch at a location 15 -20 cm from the tip forming
a “U”
• Bending, twisting, cutting or girdling at the bottom of the
“U” stimulates rooting at the location – interrupts the
downward movement of metabolites from leaves – results in
accumulation of carbohydrates and hormones above the
notch or girdle or ring – stimulates root formation.
• Cover the rooting region with soil , leaving the tip exposed.

50. SIMPLE LAYERING…
• Water the layered portion regularly till root
initiation
• In most plants, rooting is complete within 4-8
weeks
• Rooted layer is cut from the parent plant
• Keep in a pot in a nursery for about 1 year
before planting.

51. TIP LAYERING
Image: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/

52. COMPOUND OR SERPENTINE
LAYERING
Image: https://slideplayer.com/

53. COMPOUND OR SERPENTINE
LAYERING…
• Used for propagation of plants that have
long, flexible shoots – Jasminum, Clematis
• A branch is alternately covered and exposed
along its length.
• Select a healthy, flexible, long branch( 100-
250 cm ) ,near the ground.
• Give sharp, slanting invert cut passing
through the node at 30 cm, 60 cm, 90 cm and
150 cm from the tip.

54. COMPOUND OR SERPENTINE
LAYERING…
• Bend the shoot gently to the ground and
insert the cut portions of the stem alternately
into the soil and cover the rooting region
with soil.
• Keep a stone on the covered soil to keep the
branch in place.
• Water the layered portion regularly till
rooted layer is separated.

55. AIR LAYERING
(Gootee, Marcottage, Chinese layerage, Pot layerage)
Image:https://www.instructables.com/

56. AIR LAYERING…
Image:https://www.instructables.com/

57. AIR LAYERING…
Image:https://www.pinterest.com/

58. AIR LAYERING…

59. AIR LAYERING…
Image: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/

60. AIR LAYERING…
• Usually done in Spring or in Monsoon
• Long, 1 – 2 year old shoots are used.
• Leaves are removed from the base of the
shoot to be layered
• Stem is girdled by removing a ring of bark
about 2 – 3 cm wide at its base.
• Scrape the exposed surface to ensure the
complete removal of phloem and cambium to
avoid premature healing.

61. AIR LAYERING…
Girdling
• Reduces water conductivity
• Helps in accumulation of carbohydrates and hormones
which are necessary for easy and profuse rooting.
 Application of IBA to the exposed area is beneficial.
 The girdled area is covered with moist soil / Sphagnum
moss and wrapped with polyethylene sheet (high
permeability to gases, low transmission of water vapour)
 Two ends are then tied.
 Rooting takes place within 4 – 8 weeks.
 After observing the fully developed roots through the
transparent polyethylene sheet , separate the layered
shoot from the parent plant by a gradual cut.

62. AIR LAYERING…
• The rooted layer is separated from the parent
plant in two or three stages to reduce the
shock of sudden separation
• First a ‘V’ – shaped cut is made below 2.5 cm
from the point of root emergence.
• After a week, the cut is deepened
• A few days later, the final cut is given and the
layer is separated from the parent plant and
is used for propagation.

63. MOUND LAYERING
(STOOL LAYERING, STOOLING)
Image:http://www.yourarticlelibrary.com/

64. MOUND LAYERING…
• Plant is cut 2.5 cm from the ground level
during dormant season
• When the newly developed shoots have
grown 7-15 cm tall, moist soil is heaped
around the base of the newly developing
shoots to half of its height – causes etiolation
–encourages root formation.
• When the roots have grown 20 -25 cm , add
soil to half of the shoot.

65. MOUND LAYERING…
• Add soil again when the shoots have grown to a
height of 35 – 45 cm
• Water the heaped soil regularly
• Allow sufficient time for rooting (2- 3 months)
Sometimes, to encourage root development,
ringing or girdling at the base of the young
shoots and application of root promoting
substances are practised.
• Cut the rooted shoots close to their base and
can be used for propagation
e.g. Apple, Goose berry, Hydrangia etc.

66. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING
Image:http://www.kcse-online.info/

67. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING…
• Mother plants are established in a slopping
position horizontally such that the shoots can
be layered horizontally in the base of a
trench.
• Soil, bark, sawdust or other rooting material
is filled in around the new shoots –
etiolation.
• Used for most difficult - to – root clones –
Cherry, Apple, Mulberry, Walnut etc.

68. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING…
Establishing the Layer bed
• 1 year old plants are planted at an angle of 30
to 45 ° in the row
• By the end of growing season , a shallow
trench of 5 x 23 cm is dug down the row.
• The plants are brought down to a horizontal
level and “pegged” carefully so that they are
flat on the bottom of the trench along with
strong lateral branches.

69. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING…
Second year
• Buds are covered with about 2.5 cm soil
• Rooting medium such as saw dust are added
periodically to etiolate 5 -7.5 cm of the
developing shoots- final depth should be 15 –
19 cm - Successful layering depends upon
etiolation.

70. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING…
• Rooting should takes place at the end of the
season – saw dust is removed & rooted layers
are cut off close to the original branch leaving
a small stub for next year’s growth.
• The process is repeated in subsequent years
• A well cared mother bed should last for 15 to
20 years.

71. GRAFTING
• Joining parts of two plants together in such a
manner that they unite and function as one
plant
• A graft has two parts, Scion and Stock.
SCION
• Upper part of graft combination which is
taken from the desired plant having superior
qualities - becomes the shoot system of the
graft.

72. GRAFTING…
STOCK (Root stock, Under stock )
• Part of the graft that forms the root system of
the grafted plant.
• In most cases, stock is raised from seeds
• The plant selected as a stock should be healthy
and vigorously growing
• Should be compatible with Scion
• Age , preferably 1 year
• Should be locally adapted, highly resistant and
with good efficiency for absorption of water and
minerals.

73. FORMATION OF GRAFT UNION
1. Adhesion of the root stock and scion
• Stock and Scion should be held together
firmly by wrapping, tying etc. so that the
parts will not move about.
• Success of grafting involves bringing the
cambium of the stock and scion together
and no graft union takes place unless it is
achieved.

74. FORMATION OF GRAFT UNION…
2. Proliferation of callus at the graft interface
Formation of callus (Parenchyma cells) by the
cambium of stock and scion – proliferate in 1
-7 days.
3.Intermingling and interlocking of parenchyma
cells of callus of both graft components
• Fills the space between scion and stock

75. FORMATION OF GRAFT UNION…
4. Formation of vascular cambium
Differentiation of certain parenchyma cells
to form the vascular cambium.
5. Formation of new vascular tissues by the
new cambium – making contact between
the vascular tissues of the stock and scion –
permits translocation of water, nutrients
and metabolites between the stock and
scion.

76. TECHNIQUES (METHODS) OF
GRAFTING
I. Detached Scion Grafting
Apical grafting Side grafting Bark grafting Root grafting
• Whip (Splice) Side – stub Bark (Rind)
• Whip & Tongue Side – tongue Inlay Bark
• Cleft(Split) Side – Veneer
• Wedge

77. WHIP (SPLICE) GRAFTING
Image:https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/

78. WHIP (SPLICE) GRAFTING…
• Stock and scion of the same thickness are
selected.
• A slanting cut of about 3 – 5cm long is made
on the stock and a similar cut is made on the
scion.
• These two cut surfaces are placed together
and tightly tied with polyethylene grafting
type , which is removed when the graft
union is complete. (Apple, Pear, Cherry )

79. WHIP AND TONGUE GRAFTING
Image:http://rfcarchives.org.au/

80. WHIP AND TONGUE GRAFTING…
• The stock and scion should be of equal
diameter
• A slanting cut of about 3 -5 cm long is made
at the top of the root stock and a similar cut
is made at the bottom of the scion.
• On each of these cut surfaces , a reverse cut
is made beginning at a point about 1/3 of the
distance from the tip and should be about
1/2 the length of the first cut.

81. WHIP AND TONGUE GRAFTING…
• The scion is then slipped into the stock so
that the tongues interlock and the cambium
of the stock and scion are in close contact.
These portions are then tied and wrapped
with grafting tape.

82. CLEFT GRAFTING (SPLIT GRAFTING)

83. CLEFT GRAFTING (SPLIT GRAFTING)…
• Useful for grafting older plants with thick
stem
• The stock is cut at an appropriate height
• A vertical split for a distance of 7 – 9 cm
down the centre of the stock is made.
• This vertical split is kept open with the help
of a screw driver/ chisel etc.
• The scion should be made from dormant, 1
year old wood.

84. CLEFT GRAFTING (SPLIT GRAFTING)…
• Scions, 8 to 10 cm long, having 2 -3 buds are
selected.
• Basal end of each scion should be cut into a
sloping wedge (about 5 cm long).
• Scions are inserted in the sides of the vertical
split so that the cambium layer of the stock
matches with the scion and secured tightly with
waxed cloth.

85. WEDGE GRAFTING

86. WEDGE GRAFTING…
• Done in late winter or early spring before the
bark begins to slip.
• A 5 cm long “V” shaped wedge is cut on the
side of the stock (5-10 cm) – 2 or 3 such cuts can
be made depending on the diameter of the
stock – the cut can be made open with a screw
driver.
• The scion should be about 10 -13 cm long , 10-
12mm thick and with 2 or 3 healthy vegetative
buds.

87. WEDGE GRAFTING…
• The basal ends of the scion should be cut into
a “V” shaped wedge , matching the opening
in the stock
• The scion is inserted into the “V” shaped
opening in the stock in such a way that the
cambium of the stock and scion are closely
matched .
• All the cut surfaces are covered with grafting
wax.

88. SIDE GRAFTING
• The scion is inserted into the side of the root
stock, which is larger in diameter than the
scion.
Side – stub grafting (Side – wedge grafting)
• Simplest and most effective method
• Useful in branches of trees that are too large
for whip & tongue graft
• Root stocks - branches of about 2.5 cm

89. Side – stub grafting
(Side – wedge grafting)
Image:http://himachalfruits.com/

90. Side – stub grafting
(Side – wedge grafting)…
• An oblique , 2.5 cm deep cut in the stock at
an angle of 20 ° to 30°.
• Scion- 7.5 cm long, thin, with 2 or 3 buds.
• Base of the scion is cut into a narrow thin
wedge.
• The root stock is then gently bent away from
its side cut so that it opens sufficiently
• The scion is inserted – cambial layer should
match with that of the stock.

91. Side – stub grafting
(Side – wedge grafting)…
• The graft is tightly tied with polyethylene
tape to seal the entire area.
• The entire graft union must be completely
covered with grafting wax.
• After the graft is completed, the root stock
may be cut off , just above the union.

92. SIDE – TONGUE GRAFTING
Image:https://etc.usf.edu/

93. SIDE – TONGUE GRAFTING…
• Useful for small plants.
• The diameter of the scion should be slightly smaller
than that of root stock.
• A sloping cut is made at the base of the scion. A
second cut is made under the first forming a thin
tongue.
• A cut of similar length is made on the root stock. A
reverse cut is made downward , starting one –third of
the distance from the top of the cut. The second cut
in the root stock should be of the same length as the
reverse cut in the scion.

94. SIDE – TONGUE GRAFTING…
• The scion is inserted into the cut in the root
stock – the two tongues interlocking & the
cambium layers matching along the side.
• The graft is wrapped with plastic tape and
waxed.
• After the graft union is complete, cut the top
of the root stock just above the scion.

95. SIDE - VENEER GRAFTING
Image:http://www.fao.org/

96. SIDE - VENEER GRAFTING…
• The thickness of the stock is usually more than
the scion.
• A long shallow cut of 2 – 3 cm long is made on
one side of the stem of root stock.
• A second , short downward cut is made at the
base of the first to remove a piece of bark and a
little wood.
• A long shallow cut is made on one side of the
stem of scion. A second very short cut is made at
the base of the scion on the opposite side.

97. SIDE - VENEER GRAFTING…
• The cuts on the stock and scion should be of
the same length and width.
• The scion is inserted into the stock – the
cambium of stock & scion should match at
least along one side
• Tie with polyethylene tape.
• After the union is complete, the root stock is
cut back, leaving the scion to grow.

98. BARK GRAFTING

99. BARK GRAFTING…
• Done when bark slips readily.
• Stock is larger than scion – sometimes 2 or 3 scions
are placed on large stocks
• Cut stock and the bark is split downwards
from the apex about 5cm long.
• Scion , 12 – 15 cm long and 6 – 12.5 cm thick ,
containing 2 or 3 buds.
• First , a long cut is made on the scion . A second
shorter cut is made on the side opposite to the first
cut , making the basal end of the scion to a wedge
shape
• Insert scion between the bark and wood of the root
stock , placing the longer cut of the scion against the
wood – tie and apply grafting wax on the graft joint.

100. INLAY BARK GRAFT

101. INLAY BARK GRAFT…
• Suitable for thick –barked trees (e.g. Walnut)
where insertion of the scion under bark is not
feasible.
• 2 parallel vertical cuts , 2.5 – 5 cm long are
made through the bark of the root stock down
to the wood. The distance between the 2 cuts
should be equal to the width of the scion
• Terminal two –thirds of this bark is lifted and cut
off, leaving a small flap at the bottom.

102. INLAY BARK GRAFT…
• A 5 cm long slanting cut is made on one side
at the basal end of the scion and a shorter
cut is made on the opposite side forming a
wedge at the base of the scion.
• Scion is inserted into the slot made by the
removal of the bark.
• Secure the graft in position and apply grafting
wax.

103. ROOT GRAFTING

104. ROOT GRAFTING…
• Roots are used as root stock & the scion
stem is grafted to it.
1. Whole root graft- whole root system is used
for grafting
2. Piece root graft - small pieces of roots are
used as stocks
Egs : Apple, Pear

105. ROOT GRAFTING…
• Root stock plants are dug and stored under
cool ( 1.5 to 4.5 C °) and moist conditions.
Root pieces should be 7.5 – 15 cm long
• Scion should be of the same length with 2 -4
buds. Usually the scion wood is collected and
stored.

106. ROOT GRAFTING…
• Grafting (Whip & Tongue type is commonly
used) is performed indoors with dormant
scions and root stocks at benches (Hence,
also known as Bench grafting).
• After the grafts are made and properly tied,
they are bundled together in groups of 50 –
100 and stored for callusing in damp sand or
other packing material.

107. II. APPROACH GRAFTING
• Two independent plants are grafted together.
• After the grafting union, the top of the root
stock plant is removed above the graft and
the base of the scion plant is removed below
the graft gradually to prevent the sudden
shock of separation.
Egs: Mango, Sapota, Litchi

108. SPLICED APPROACH GRAFTING

109. SPLICED APPROACH GRAFTING…

110. SPLICED APPROACH GRAFTING…
• Both stock and scion should be of equal
thickness.
• The pot containing the root stock is placed
near the scion desired to be propagated
• A thin slice of bark and wood about 60 – 70
mm long is removed from the stock at a
height of about 25 – 30 cm from the soil
surface.
• A similar cut is made on the scion shoot.

111. SPLICED APPROACH GRAFTING…
• The stock and the scion are held together in
such a way that the cut position fits closely
without any gap between them.
• Tied firmly with jute fibre or wax tape.
• Grafting wax is applied at the graft joint to
prevent the wilting of tissues.
• The union will be completed in about 40 -60
days – After the union ,scion is cut below the
union and the stock above the union, resulting a
new plant consisting of a root stock and a
grafted top.

112. TONGUED APPROACH GRAFTING

113. TONGUED APPROACH GRAFTING…
• Same as the spliced approach grafting except
that after the first cut is made in each stem to
be joined, a second cut – downward on the
stock and upward on the scion is made , thus
providing a thin tongue on each.
• By interlocking these tongues, a very tight ,
closely fitting graft union can be observed.

114. III. REPAIR GRAFTING
INARCHING
• Similar to approach grafting
• Used to replace damaged roots
• Seedlings planted beside the damaged tree
are grafted into the trunk of the tree to
provide a new root system

115. REPAIR GRAFTING – BRIDGE
GRAFTING

116. REPAIR GRAFTING – BRIDGE
GRAFTING…

117. REPAIR GRAFTING – BRIDGE
GRAFTING…
• Used when there is injury to the trunk.
• Done when active growth of the tree occurs
and the bark is easily slipping.
• The torn or dead bark is removed.
• A scion is inserted every 5 to 7.5 cm around
the injured section and attached at both
upper and lower ends into live undamaged
bark – cut surfaces covered with grafting
wax.

118. BUDDING
• A form of grafting in which a single
vegetative bud is taken from one plant
(scion) and inserted into the stem tissue of
another (root stock) so that the two will
unite and grow together. The inserted bud
develop into new shoot.

119. AIMS/ OBJECTIVES OF BUDDING
• To perpetuate the clone that can not be
readily reproduced by other methods of
propagation.
• To obtain the good qualities of certain root
stocks – for cold hardiness, disease
resistance, salt tolerance etc.
• For changing the cultivars of established
plants(top – working)
• For hastening the growth of seedling.

120. TYPES OF BUDDING
T- BUDDING (SHIELD BUDDING)

121. T- BUDDING (SHIELD BUDDING)…

122. T- BUDDING…
• Done when the stock plant is in active growth
and the cambial cells are actively dividing so
that the bark separates easily from the wood-
slipping
• Shield budding – shield like appearance of
the bud piece from the scion.

123. T- BUDDING - Procedure
• Select stock & scion (bud stick)
• Select a suitable internodal smooth bark (15
-20 cm from the ground level)
• Give a vertical cut , 2.5 – 3.7 cm (bark only)
• At the top of the vertical cut, give another
horizontal cut T –shaped incision.
• Lift the bark piece on either side of the
vertical cut for insertion of bud.

124. T- BUDDING – Procedure…
• The scion bud is removed in the form of a
shield.
• Insert the bud between the flaps of bark on
the stock
• Wrap the bud and stock firmly in such a way
that the bud is fully exposed.

125. INVERTED T - BUDDING

126. INVERTED T – BUDDING…
• Similar to T – budding except that the
horizontal cut is made at the bottom of the
vertical cut.
• Used to prevent the possible entry of water
from the top of the T- cut which may cause
rotting of the shield piece.

128. PATCH BUDDING

129. PATCH BUDDING…
• Done during the period when the bark of
stock and scion slip easily.
• A rectangular patch of bark is completely
removed from the stock – on the stock plant
give 2 transverse cuts – width 1 to 2.5 cm
( only bark deep) parallel to each other and
with a distance of about 2.5 to 3.75 cm
between them.

130. PATCH BUDDING…
• Join the transverse cuts at their ends by two
vertical cuts and remove the patch of bark.
• On the scion, give 2 transverse cuts and
vertical cuts of similar dimension as above
and remove the bark patch with the bud.
• Insert the bud patch on the stock
• Wrap the bud joint with budding tape,
exposing the bud.

131. I - BUDDING
Image: https://www.ndsu.edu/

132. I – BUDDING…
• Make 2 transverse cuts through the bark of the
root stock
• Join these cuts at their centre by a single
vertical cut → I – shaped incision .
• Cut the bud patch in the form of a rectangle or
square.
• Raise the 2 flaps of bark and insert the bud
patch inside the flaps.
• Tie with budding tape, exposing the bud.
Remove the budding tape when the union is
complete.

133. CHIP BUDDING
Image:https://simpson.ca.uky.edu/

134. CHIP BUDDING…
CHIP BUDDING

135. CHIP BUDDING IN APPLE
Image: https://www.rhs.org.uk/

136. CHIP BUDDING…
• Done when the bark does not slip well.
• A chip of bark , 2.5 – 3 cm long is removed from
a smooth portion of internode of the stock.
• Another chip of the same size and shape with a
bud is removed from the scion and placed on
the stock.
• Wrap it exposing the bud .
• Stock is cut back when the union is complete
and the bud starts growing .
• Used in Citrus, Apple etc.

137. RING (ANNULAR ) BUDDING

138. RING (ANNULAR ) BUDDING

139. RING (ANNULAR ) BUDDING…
• Done when the bark slips easily.
• Stock and scion should be of the same diameter
• A ring of bark (1.25 – 2.5 cm) with a bud is
loosened from the scion and slipped off from
one end of the branch.
• The stock is cut back to a height where the
budding is to be done – a portion of the bark is
peeled off and the scion is slipped down over
the stock.
• Wrap with a budding tape , exposing the bud.

140. FLUTE BUDDING

141. FLUTE BUDDING…
• Done when the bark slips easily
• Remove the bark encircling the root stock
almost completely , leaving a narrow strip of
bark – on the stock plant, give 2 vertical cuts
(2.5 – 3.75 cm) , parallel to each other and
with a distance of 1/8 of the circumference
of the stock plant .

142. FLUTE BUDDING…
• Joint the ends of these two vertical cuts by 2
parallel horizontal cuts and remove the bark
piece
• Similar cuts are also given in the bud sticks
and remove the bark piece with bud.
• Insert the scion on the stock
• Wrap with budding tape , exposing the bud.
• After the union and the bud starts to grow ,
remove the tape and cut the top of the stock

143. FORKERT BUDDING(FLAP BUDDING)
• A transverse cut and two vertical cuts joining the
transverse cuts are given on the stock and the bark is
carefully peeled along these cuts, but remain
attached on the lower side in the form of a flap.
• The scion bud of the size corresponding to the cut
made on the stock is removed
• The bud patch is fitted into the exposed portion of
the stock .
• The flap of the bark of stock is used to cover the
inserted bud patch and remove a little portion to
expose the bud and wrapped with budding tape.

144. FORKERT BUDDING…
• When the union is complete, the budding
tape is removed and the flap is cutoff.
• When the bud starts growing, cut the top of
the stock
e.g. Rubber, Teak etc.

145. THANK YOU