Awakened Apparel Embedded Soft Actuatorsfor Expressive Fash.docx

Awakened Apparel: Embedded Soft Actuators
for Expressive Fashion and Functional Garments
Laura Perovich
MIT Media Lab
[email protected]
Philippa Mothersill
MIT Media Lab
[email protected]
Jennifer Broutin Farah
MIT Media Lab
[email protected]
1ABSTRACT
Each morning we select an outfit meant to suit our mood
and our plans. What if our clothes could seamlessly morph
with us as our attitudes and activities change throughout the
day? We created Awakened Apparel; one of the first
shape-changing fashions to employ pneumatically actuated
origami. Our prototype draws from diverse disciplines
including soft robotics and fashion to present a design
vision that advances the growing field of dynamic

interactive garments. We explore technical and fabrication
approaches for shape-changing technology held close to the
body and identify areas for further innovation.
Author Keywords
Interactive fashion; origami, pneumatics; soft mechanisms
ACM Classification Keywords
H.5.m. Information interfaces and presentation (e.g., HCI):
Miscellaneous
INTRODUCTION
Fashion is closely tied to identity and functionality. Our
clothes affect our feelings and express them to the world—
we put on loose pajamas when we need to be comforted and
dress up in tailored suits for job interviews. They also can
constrain or empower us—a bulky winter jacket protects us
from the cold while a tight skirt inhibits our ability to walk.
Yet interaction with our clothing is limited—beyond the
functionality offered by zippers and buttons, few garments
fundamentally change their function and aesthetic.
As part of our design vision for the future of transformable
clothing we created Awakened Apparel—a pneumatic

folding, shape-changing skirt that is both aesthetically
pleasing and functional. This work draws on diverse
research in soft robotics, folding, and fashion.
BACKGROUND
Pneumatically actuated shape-changing objects have been
developed most recently in the field of soft robotics. Key
research in this area [7,12] combines the varying material
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properties of stretchy membranes (e.g. silicone) and non-
stretchy membranes (e.g. inextensible fabric or paper) to
create inflatable actuators that bend in a prescribed

direction [14]. The natural flexibility of fabric particularly
befits this developing field of soft-bodied robotic actuators,
such as OtherLab’s Ant-Roach Pneubot [4].
Shape-changing garments have used many forms of
actuation technology to transform: from electronically
activated smart-memory alloy wire to inflatable actuation
[3,11]. Garments such as Diana Eng’s Inflatable Collar
[11] use plastic air bladders encased in a fabric covering to
create clothing that transforms shape while being worn.
Ying Gao’s Walking City dresses [11] use origami folds in
the fabric to give additional structure to the inflated shape.
Awakened apparel builds on advances in soft robotics and
transformable fashion by fusing pneumatics and folding
with garment design to create aesthetically and tactilely
pleasing shape-changing mechanisms for clothes.
MOTIVATION
What does a future of interactive shape-changing fashion
offer us? Fashion’s close connection to both identity and
functionality affords many possible triggers for
interaction—from changes in weather [11], to altered

emotional circumstance [11], to safety concerns [6].
In this future of shape-changing clothing, a single garment
can embody several functional states. Awakened Apparel
presents a shape-changing skirt as an inspirational
storyline that spans some of the use cases for shape-
changing clothing. Motivations for state transitions can be:
informational: acts as an ambient device [13] conveying
abstracted information about the self or the world; e.g.
shorter length with positive stock market performance [2]
emotional: reacts to the emotion or situation of the
wearer; e.g. more conservative under unwanted attention
functional: allows the user to perform specific tasks,
preserve safety, or maintain comfort, e.g. bicycle riding
Figure 1: vision sketch of skirt in its many forms
8th International Conference on Tangible, Embedded and
Embodied Interaction (TEI’14)
77
SOFT MECHANISMS FOR SHAPE-CHANGING FASHION
Mechanism, materials and actuation
With the design storyline and values defined, we
provisionally tested mechanisms, materials, and actuations

that satisfy these constraints in order to determine the
primary path of fabrication. Our work adds to this fruitful
research space by combining pneumatics, folding, and
aesthetics with the exploration of suitable materials and
actuation in order to create a novel mechanism for shape
changing clothing.
Pneumatic folding was selected over scissor linkages,
nitinol wire [3], drawstrings, direct material folding [11]
and other more traditional mechanical approaches to size
and shape changing. Origami served as a basis for
geometric construction; though other mechanisms can be
very attractive [1], origami’s thin form factor more closely
satisfies the design values required for fashion garments,
while pneumatics offer an organic and subtle shape change.
Materials must be carefully considered in developing
shape-changing garments. Transformable fashion presents
constraints not often found in mechanism design, as
clothing must feel human, move with the body, and look
pleasant. In order to ensure that Awakened Apparel
remains wearable, materials used must be within the range

of typical clothing in their:
Texture: limit unpleasant textures such as extreme
stiffness, sliminess, metal; use fabric whenever possible
Aesthetic: colors must be pleasing and piece assembled
to be complementary
Robustness: materials must not be excessively fragile or
unsuited to daily life
Mechanical actuation was selected over electronic in order
to fit with the design goal, since it limits hard fragile parts
and creates an intuitive and immediate interaction. In this
demonstration, a foot operated pump eliminates the need
for bulky batteries or tethered power supply. In the future,
electronic pneumatic actuation will be achievable using
advancements in soft robust electronics that will be
incorporated into our design to provide precise airflow
control and shape-changing detail.
PNEUMATIC FOLDING MECHANISM
Experimentation: origami pattern design
Design of the base origami pattern for the shape-changing
skirt was informed by the following parameters:
Naturally curve around the body when folded

Decrease in length and width when folded
Simple enough for repeatable construction
Early designs were based on the Miura fold, a simple non-
orthogonal fold that can create up to 90% vertical and
horizontal size change [8]. We also tested the spiral
pinecone fold pattern [9], a conical shape that can decrease
in length by 80% when compressed. Exact design
dimensions were tested in paper to optimize the shape-
changing effect and aesthetic. The Miura fold satisfied
design parameters 2 & 3 and the spiral pinecone fold
satisfied parameters 1 & 2 but neither performed all desired
functions, leading us to develop a combined design. Select
geometric pattern experiments are shown in Figure 2.
Figure 2: origami pattern experimentation
An A-line skirt was selected as the primary form as it
satisfies the design values and technical constraints: it has a
pleasant aesthetic, is simple in form, and contains enough
surface area to allow for versatility.
Experimentation: pneumatic folding & textiles
We tested several approaches to inflation-based folding and

assessed them based on the following parameters:
Maximization of shape-changing effect
Allows mechanical inflation through hand or foot pump
Alignment with material design values (texture,
aesthetic, robustness)
Figure 3: folding inflation mechanism
Using inspiration from soft robotics mechanisms [12],
initial experimentation into creating pneumatically actuated
textiles showed that fusing a long rhombus-shaped
inflation channel to one side of a piece of fabric caused it
to bend towards the channel when inflated. The limited
deformation in the inextensible fabric, combined with the
greater moment force at the mid-length corners, causes the
textile to fold towards the side of the more extensible
inflation channel. This inflation folding mechanism is
visualized in Figure 3 and applied in further investigations.
Material explorations first built on soft robotics techniques
[7] by casting silicone inflation pockets directly to the
garment fabric. This method led to flexible pockets that

were easily inflated and could fold over 40
o
from their flat
deflated state (Figure 4). However, due to the thinness of
the silicone layers the approach was deemed insufficiently
repeatable and durable to meet the design goals.
A more successful technique was heat-sealing plasticized
78
sheet materials and fusing them to fabric. Layers of Mylar
polyester film and paper fuse the Mylar edges when ironed,
leaving an airtight inflation channel in the shape of the
paper layer. This inflation channel is affixed directly to the
fabric using double-sided fabric fusing material.
Figure 4: select pneumatic experiments: silicon (L); Mylar (R)
FINAL DESIGN
The final design for the Awakened Apparel pneumatic
folding skirt incorporates the following elements:

A body-fitting shape created from a modified Miura
fold origami pattern that curves when folded.
Heat-fused, laminated Mylar inflation channels
embedded into the fabric of the garment.
Shape-change throughout the skirt generated from the
multi-sided mountain and valley inflation channels
and activated through use of a single foot-pump.
Unique aesthetic inspired by the underlying origami
pattern and a clothing-appropriate texture.
Figure 5: inflation folding pattern—red channels are affixed to
the underside of the fabric, blue to the topside
The final origami pattern is based on a Miura fold with
curved radial fold lines, and varying angled vertical fold
lines (Figure 5). The ‘mountain’ folds (undersides fold
together) have angles 30-110% greater than the ‘valley’
folds (topsides fold together). This results in a curving
conical shape, which decreases in length by over 90% and
increases in curvature by up to 40% when folded. The
simple repeated pattern enables easier construction.
Figure 6: inflation channel layers heat-sealed in fabrication
Heat-fused laminated Mylar inflation channels (Figure
6) satisfy all of the approach parameters as it provides a

reasonable level of shape-change when inflated by foot-
pump (folding up to 23
o
), is repeatable and robust, and
provides an acceptable softness and pleasing aesthetic.
Figure 7: final Awakened Apparel prototype
Figure 7 shows the modified Miura origami used with
heat-fused laminated Mylar channels. Due to the single
folding direction when inflated, the alternating mountain
and valley fold inflation sections were distributed on the
underside and topside of the fabric respectively to create the
alternating directions of folding.
For maximum robustness, each air channel had its own inlet
and is connected to the foot pump via a tubing system in
the top of the skirt.
DISCUSSION
We created Awakened Apparel, a pneumatic folding skirt
that values aesthetics and functionality, serves to motivate
material explorations, and defines key dimensions for
future shape-changing fashion.
Design goals, including material texture, aesthetic, and
robustness were largely achieved. The piece was
constructed primarily of clothing fabric paired with small

sections of Mylar film that slightly increased material
stiffness but were not offensively unpleasant. Texture
could be further improved by limiting tubing sections used
to connect skirt to the foot-pump. Careful selection of skirt
form and colors—inspired by architectural examples and
stormy sky palate suggested by pneumatic actuation—led to
a fitting aesthetic. Materials displayed acceptable
robustness, and automation of the assembly process would
minimize leakage caused by human error. Satisfaction of
the design goals lead to a truly wearable garment that serves
as an initial embodiment of our vision.
LIMITATIONS
Basic actuation was achieved within the constraints of the
design parameters, though further development is required
to reach the full desired effect. Pneumatic folding was
highly successful on small samples (up to 40% curvature
increase), but the weight of the overall garment limited
movement in the larger piece (8% curvature increase; 8%
length contraction). Further work to improve the extent and

79
detail of this shape-changing technology will explore
additional techniques from soft robotics such as lighter
materials, improved geometries, and soft electro-pneumatic
control systems [4].
FUTURE WORK
A second prototype, which embodies the full storyline of
our vision (Figure 1) and implements transitions between
the various expressive states, remains as future, yet fully
achievable, work. Currently, pneumatic actuation operates
through a foot-pump and depends on manual intervention
by the user. Through future addition of electronics—e.g.
bluetooth, basic sensors—we will be able to acquire the
information needed to make our vision of more fluidly
responsive clothing a reality. Information-based transitions
can rely on readily available open-source APIs to access

data such as stock market results or weather conditions to
transform clothing into an ambient device. As the field of
affective computing advances, sensors could be
incorporated into the design to achieve emotion-based
transitions [5, 10]. Functional changes will be situational or
temporal by calling on GPS location or time of day. They
could also remain mechanical, controlled exclusively and
unobtrusively by the user. Our vision for interaction serves
as a launching point for further collaboration with the HCI
community on shape-changing fashion.
CONCLUSION
Awakened Apparel is one of the early examples of fully
embedded, pneumatically folding, shape-changing
fashion. It draws on diverse fields to propose a framework
for creating shape-changing garments that fuse the pleasing
aesthetics of fashion with the functional inflation
technologies of soft robotics. Awakened Apparel uses
materials suited to the body and an inflatable structural
design to truly embed shape-changing actuation into the
fabrics we use in our everyday clothing. We hope our

prototypes and design vision can serve as a launching point
for future work in this multidisciplinary area of embedded
textile actuators for expressive and functional shape-
changing garments.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This work began as part of the course Mechanical Invention
Through Computation led by Chuck Hoberman, Dr. Erik
Demaine, and Dr. Daniela Rus.
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and vilkas: Kinetic electronic garments. In Wearable
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119-123.
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"Inside-Out: Reflecting on your Inner State", Work-in-
progress in Pervasive Computing, San Diego, CA,
March 18-22, 2013
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http://www.hovding.com/en/how_it_works/
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M. (2012). Elastomeric Origami: Programmable Paper:
Elastomer Composites as Pneumatic Actuators.
Advanced Functional Materials, 22(7), 1376-1384.
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Space Exploration, International Journal of Pure and
Applied Mathematics, Vol.79, No.2, 269-279, 2012
9. Nojima, T. (2007). Origami Modeling of Functional
Structures based on Organic Patterns.
10. Sano, A., Picard, R. W., "Stress recognition using
wearable sensors and mobile phones", to appear
Humaine Association Conference on Affective
Computing and Intelligent Interaction, September 2013.
11. Seymour, S. (2008). Fashionable technology: the

intersection of design, fashion, science, and technology.
Springer.
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Stokes, A. A., Mazzeo, A. D., .Chen, X., Wang, M. &
Whitesides, G. M. (2011). Multigait soft
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Ishii, H. (2013) PneUI: Pneumatically Actuated Soft
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Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol.36, December 2011, pp. 327-335

Design and engineering of functional clothing
Deepti Gupta
a
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of
Technology, New Delhi 110 016, India
The process of design and engineering of functional clothing
design is based on the outcomes of an objective assessment
of many requirements of the user, and hence tend to be complex
and iterative. In this paper, the user requirements
(besides the primary requirement of functionality) have been
classified under four subtitles, namely physiological,
biomechanical, ergonomic and psychological. The correlation
between various characteristics of clothing and these
requirements has been discussed. Subsequent steps involved in
the ergonomic design process such as selection of materials,
size and fit determination, pattern making, assembling and
finishing have been listed out. Influence of technological
advancements in related fields on each of these activities is
discussed with a view to emphasise how the process
of functional clothing design is different from design of
everyday apparel. The fast developing field of functional
clothing
represents the future of textile and apparel industry, particularly
in growing economies like China and India who will be

the largest producers as well as consumers of these high tech
products. Challenges being faced by this sector and a road map
to meet the same have also been proposed.
Keywords: Clothing engineering, Comfort, Clothing design,
Ergonomic design process, Functional clothing
1 Introduction
Unlike fashion clothing, which is essentially a
product of the designer’s creative instincts, the
process of designing functional clothing begins
and ends with the user specific requirements.
These requirements, whether for performance or
for comfort, are determined by the environment
in which the user operates, and the activities that he
or she performs.
Clothing, by its nature has a restrictive effect on
body movement as well as on transport of heat and
moisture from the body. Clothing can be abrasive,
noisy, smelly or unattractive. Clothing designed
specifically for certain functionalities has been
shown to cause heat stress, reduce task efficiency as
well as range-of-motion
1
of the wearer. The process
of design therefore begins by first establishing
the many requirements of the user. Subsequent
processes are based on meeting, to the best possible
extent, these user requirements. Figure 1 shows the
flow chart of steps involved in the design of
functional clothing. In this paper, the user
requirements (besides the primary requirement

of functionality) have been classified under four
subtitles and the correlation between various
characteristics of clothing and these requirements
are discussed. Subsequent steps involved in the
ergonomic design process such as selection of
materials, size and fit determination, pattern making,
assembling and finishing have also been listed out.
2 Requirements from Functional Clothing
Each class of functional clothing has a well
defined functionality which distinguishes it from
the other classes. However, in addition to this
specific functionality, all functional clothing
classes must fulfill certain requirements which are
common to all users. These considerations can be
classified into the following categories: physiological,
biomechanical, ergonomic and psychological
considerations. Effective functional wear is based
on the integration of all of these considerations into
the design of a clothing system.
2.1 Physiological Requirements
These relate to the human physiology and
anatomy – shape, size, mass, strength and metabolic
activities of the body or the need of the human
body to feel comfortable in a clothing system.
To what extent these needs are met is determined
by the shape, size, feel and design of the garment,
materials selected and their response to internal
and external stimuli such as extreme cold, heat,
rain, sand or snow. Ease of use, wear and removal
has to be considered in case of first responders,
motor disabled and elderly groups.

——————
a
E-mail: [email protected]
INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., DECEMBER 2011
328
Fig.1—Flow chart showing the steps involved in design of
functional clothing
The primary factors affecting the physiological
needs are the energy metabolism, clothing thermal
properties (as determined by the heat and mass
transfer characteristics of clothing assemblies) and
the ambient climatic conditions. Given the multitude
of responsible variables, it is extremely complex to
predict the comfort aspects of a garment accurately.
These are affected by clothing penetration by solar
and thermal radiation, interactions with moisture
in clothing, effective latent heat of evaporation in
clothing, heat and vapour resistance and clothing
ventilation (through fabrics and specialized openings
at optimal body areas).
2.2 Biomechanical Requirements
Biomechanics deals with the mechanical

characteristics of human body as well as the
kinematic, dynamic, and behavioral analysis of
human activity. Its applications address mechanical
structure, strength, and mobility of humans for
engineering purposes — the unusual postures and
movements of the users , such as crawling, crouching,
fire fighting, flood relief, climbing, zero gravity
and manipulating objects. As clothing forms an
intimate covering of the human body, mechanical
interactions take place between clothing and
muscles, skin and tissue at different parts of
the body, while the body is moving and working.
The shape and fit of the garment vis a vis the human
body, pressure and friction exerted by the garment
on the body are some of the factors which affect
this aspect.
Depending on the design and fit, all clothing
exerts some pressure on the body. Pressure may
also be intentionally applied on specific body
parts for therapeutic and rehabilitation applications
in the form of compression garments. Distribution
of this pressure is determined by the mechanical
properties of body parts, e.g. fleshy parts sustain
pressure better than bony parts. Biomechanical
considerations form the basis of design of
specialized clothing classes, e.g. sportswear,
where compression may be applied on selected
muscles to enhance performance and reduce fatigue.
Similarly, clothing for body sculpting is designed
to preferentially compress, lift or support body
parts based on anatomical and biomechanical
considerations.
Application of too little pressure is ineffective

while too much pressure can restrict the blood
supply and cause edema or severe debilitation
2
.
Designer must know that body parts where major
blood and lymph vessels lie, are more sensitive
to pressure than the rest. Disregard for these
considerations can lead to the wearer experiencing
unpleasant and sometime debilitating sensations
such as thermal discomfort, rubbing, chafing,
localized pressure development and restriction
of movement.
2.3 Ergonomic Requirements
Ergonomics is defined as the science of work:
of the people who do it and the ways it is done,
of the tools and equipment they use, the places
they work in, and the psycho-social aspects of
the working situation
3
. It has been shown that
compared to a semi-nude body, the movement,
speed, accuracy, and range of motion may be
reduced in a clothed body, while muscular exertion
may be increased, e.g. the integral joint mobility
of an astronaut can be reduced to 20% of normal
in a typical space suit
4
. The ability to receive visual

and auditory feedback may also be compromised
when performance wear is worn
1
.
Ergonomic considerations dictate that the
mechanical characteristics of clothing match the
motion, degree of freedom, range of motion and
force, and moment of human joints. The working
GUPTA : DESIGN AND ENGINEERING OF FUNCTIONAL
CLOTHING
329
postures, materials handling, movements, workplace
layout, safety and health considerations should
be given due consideration while developing the
style, cut and features of a functional garment.
Size of a garment vis a vis the size of body or
‘fit’ is another critical consideration in design of
functional garments. Clothing which is too loose
can get caught during work and may impede
movement but that which is too tight will be
uncomfortable to work in. Either way, an ill
fitting garment can severely compromise the safety
and performance of the wearer. In applications
where monitoring devices/sensors are built into
the clothing, the fit is even more critical as the
sensors have to be in intimate contact with the

body in order to be effective. The ergonomic
efficiency of a clothing system can be evaluated
objectively by using specially devised human
mechanics and operational performance tests
5
.
2.4 Psychological Requirements
Psychological aspects relate to how human
beings feel, think, act, and interact under a given
set of circumstances. As clothing is an extension
of one’s persona, strong feelings are often associated
with its appearance and aesthetics. Considerations
in terms of users’ psychological and social behavior
in response to events, people and/or environments
e.g. acceptance by peer group, pride, identification,
etc becomes important. Clothing items which are
perfect in comfort and function may be completely
rejected by the users if they do not ‘look right’ or
are not perceived as smart and conveying the
proper image. Psychological expectations and
preferences of the user must therefore be given
due consideration so as to create functional
clothing which is in tune with their social and
cultural background, geographical location, age, sex,
activity and work profile.
These considerations are of vital importance
when clothing is designed for special groups such
as disabled or elderly. Clothing items have been
known to be often not accepted by the target
groups as it makes them stand out from the rest.
These groups prefer clothing which has enabling

features for their needs but does not look different
and helps them to appear “normal”. In other words,
people prefer the functionality to be unobstrusive.
For other user groups, aesthetic requirements are
secondary in importance to functional requirements
in design of functional clothing, but are nevertheless
important. It has been reported that medical clothing
which looks good can actually facilitate effective
social acceptance and lead to an improved quality
of life for the disabled. Aesthetics of the clothing
are as important as performance aspects in some
sports such as tennis, skiing, motorbiker’s clothing
and swimming. Assessment of psychological aspects
of clothing can be done through subjective methods
based on user surveys, feedback and preferences as
well as study of cultural and demographic features.
3 Process of Clothing Design
Once the user requirements have been established,
the next step is to identify and select appropriate
materials, followed by the design of clothing
assembly, pattern engineering and the final
assembling of these heterogeneous materials to create
multilayer or composite assemblies in a manner that
allows them to adequately fulfill the requirements of
comfort, protection and functionality
6
.
3.1 Material Selection

The material properties of fabrics can be
extremely complex and difficult to predict.
Textile fabrics are made up of a series of yarns
produced from fibres, which interact with each
other in many ways. The constituent fibre or yarn
properties, weave or knit patterns and geometry
of yarn and fabric structures, affect the overall
material properties. Anisotropy, non- linearity and
hysteresis are some characteristic features of
textile structures. The stresses and strains to which
textiles would be subjected by the working body
need to be considered while choosing materials.
Some requirements common to all functional
clothes are that they should be light in weight,
thermoregulatory, elastic, antimicrobial, aesthetic
and durable. Specialised applications require
materials that are anti UV, anti ballistic, anti impact,
fire retardant, abrasion resistant, cut resistant, water
repellent, high visibility and NCB (nuclear, chemical
and biological) barrier.
Innovative fibres with special properties,
special fabric and web forming technologies and
developments in chemical and mechanical finishes
make high performance textiles an important
element of functional clothing design. A variety of
materials with widely varying properties are now
available due to rapid progress made in the field
of technical textiles. Specific functional needs
may require the use of judicious combination of

330
materials ranging from polymers and metals to
ceramics, composites, laminates and membranes
7
.
Some innovative developments in material science,
which are expected to play an increasingly important
role in the design of functional clothing, are discussed
below.
3.1.1 Stretch Fabrics
Stretch fabrics are integral to design of functional
clothing. From additional comfort to enhanced
mobility, muscle support, muscle alignment and
body part compression—all are now possible by
strategic use of stretch fabrics. The efficiency and
performance of textile sensors and electrodes, in
particular, depends on the nature of contact with
the body which can be controlled by the stretch
characteristics of the fabric. Fabrics with 1 way,
2 way and 4 way stretch are being developed to
offer controlled stretch and functioning. Pattern
pieces have to be suitably engineered to provide
the required stretch and fit in a product.
3.1.2 Smart Textiles
Smart textiles are materials that sense and react
to environmental conditions or stimuli, such as
those from mechanical, thermal, chemical, electrical,
magnetic or other sources. Examples include

chromatic materials which change colour with
change in environment, phase change materials
for thermoregulation and shape memory polymers
which change shape with change in temperature.
3.1.3 Biomimetic Textiles
Biomimetics is a field which deals with
development of materials which are inspired by
natural phenomenon. From mimicking skin’s
function to enhancing skin performance, more and
more materials are being developed which imitate
living systems. Breathable wet suits - based on the
pores of leaves, self cleaning effects based on the
lotus leaf and sharkskin effect (Fig. 2) for better
hydrodynamics in water are some concepts which
have already been commercialized.
3.1.4 E-textiles
Incorporation of ICT components into textiles
has added a whole new functionality to this field.
These sophisticated materials can exhibit complex
multidirectional behaviour by sensing, reacting and
activating a specific function. Conductive yarns,
flexible and elastic sensors, wireless tools and
alternate power sources form an area of intensive
research for the development of electronic textiles.
Textile based wearable products for health and fitness
monitoring in patients and athletes are available.
Research continues to expand the applications of
use and develop products which are lighter and more
comfortable to use.
3.1.5 Nanotechnology in Textiles

Developments in nano fibres (electrospinning),
nano finishes, nano membranes and nano composites
can be used to impart functionalities which were
Fig. 2—Biomimetic fabric for low hydrodynamic surface drag
for swimsuit inspired by shark skin
8
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331
hitherto not possible to achieve in textiles.
Antimicrobial, anti UV, stain repellent, fire resistant,
antistat, moisture control and thermoregulation
properties can be imparted at the molecular level
without affecting the inherent flexibility and comfort
of fabrics. Progress in this field is expected to yield
multifunctional fabrics which are flexible, lightweight
and comfortable, making them the ideal choice for
complex functional clothing applications.
3.1.6 Use of Air in Textiles
Another innovative development, specifically
relevant to the design of functional clothing is the
increasing use of air in protective and medical
clothing to keep the systems light in weight. Hollow

core fibres, woven spacer fabrics, raised knits and
3D fleece fabric are all means of introducing air
in the system for cushioning, insulation or moisture
transport. Double layer fabrics with a 3D spacing
structure between the inner and the outer fabric
face offer superb moisture management and great
thermal insulation or ventilation, depending on the
construction
9
. These fabrics are used in medical
field for applying compression, providing support or
transport of fluids
10,11
. They can also be used instead
of foams in protective gear for shock absorption.
3.2 Membranes and Coatings
Breathability is an overriding factor in material
selection today. Coatings while imparting special
properties often make a fabric non breathable.
Developments in membrane technology over the last
few decades allow the fabric to remain breathable on
the inside while being impenetrable on the outside.
Membranes have micro pores which provide a barrier
against wind, water, chemicals, microbes and harmful
vapours present in the environment while allowing
vapour (perspiration) to escape. Other properties that
can be imparted by membranes include transparency,
flexibility, elasticity, oil resistance and high tensile
and abrasion resistance. They are being increasingly

used to provide breathability to otherwise water or
wind proof clothing used in high-performance sports
apparel, foul weather clothing, military and industrial
uniforms and medical clothing.
3.3 Accessories and Trimmings
While fabrics form the major component of
functional clothing, an equally important component
is the accessories that go into making up of the
complete assembly. Today, it is possible for a
garment to be made up of up to 25 different materials
that include buttons, zippers, pullers, snaps, fasteners,
tapes, cords and braids, high visibility strips, labels,
wadding, padding, belts and buckles. Suitable
selection and placement of accessories can go a long
way in providing multiple looks, ease of donning,
opening, maintenance, handling, improved comfort
and safety to the user. Special fasteners for motor
disabled, water proof and fire retardant zips for
specific applications are some such examples.
4 Clothing Design
As discussed above, technical textile materials are
the primary building blocks of functional clothing.
However, to capitalize on the special functionalities
provided by high tech materials, it is important to
club them with equally innovative methods and
techniques of clothing design and manufacturing.
New materials require newer methods of cutting,
sewing and joining to handle and convert them into
performance clothing systems. Design of clothing
must move away from the conventional domain

of designing in 2D (material centric) to designing
in 3D (garment shells). Availability of advanced
CAD/CAM technologies in the last few years has
made this possible to a large extent. For example,
3D body scanning technology allows the creation
of anatomically accurate models of the human body
which can be used as a base for virtual or real
designing as well as fit testing of garments in actions
and postures which closely simulate real life usage
of clothing. Once finalized, CAD systems are
further able to translate the final design into patterns,
pattern grades and markers while CAM systems
including computerized sewing machines take care
of the sewing process
12
.
4.1 Steps in Clothing Design
Development of a piece of clothing takes place
in several interdependent yet disparate processes
with its final appearance, fit and functionality being
influenced by each one of these steps
13
. The following
paragraphs discuss the steps employed in design of
functional clothing and the way in which modern
technologies and advances are transforming the same.
4.1.1 Body Measurement and Sizing
Generating body measurements of the target group

tend to serve as the first step in clothing design.
Conventional standardized size charts used for
traditional apparel design cannot be used for design of
functional clothing as those are based on traditional
332
anthropometry, where the body measurements are
taken in fixed, static poses and the data available
is one dimensional in nature. Such data contains
measurements which indicate the size but do not
yield any information about the complex human body
shape in curvature or postures.
Ergonomic block development requires 3D
anthropometric data captured in multiple realistic
postures. 3D body scanners can be used to measure
the population in static as well as dynamic mode to
capture the shape, size and posture data. Ergonomic
measures such as the range of motion also need to
be collected and considered in designing. For
more accurate understanding of the change in body
shape or the restrictions posed by clothing while
performing specific activities like swimming,
jumping, crouching, human motion analysis systems
can be used.
The issue of sizing is further made complex by the
fact that since the type and nature of measurements
required varies from one type of application

(swimming, skating, cycling, skiing) to another,
independent size charts will be needed for each
type of clothing. The size roll in each case will also
have to be developed depending on the type of
clothing being designed.
4.1.2 Pattern Engineering
Making of patterns is the next step in the
development of a garment. It is the process of
converting a 3D garment design into flat 2D
constituent pieces. These flat irregular shapes
represent various sections of a garment which when
joined together using a process such as sewing
will yield the 3 D garment shape
14,15
. Making of
patterns currently is a multi-step process which is
largely iterative, empirical and based on trial and
error approach
16,17
. A lot of tweaking, adjustment or
fitting is required in this 3D-2D-3D process to
achieve the desired fit and performance.
Functional clothing design needs to be based on a
system that accurately represents the geometry of the
human body not only in a static mode but also in the
kinetic mode during work and motion. It is because of
this, that the traditional pattern making approach of
working on flat front/back/sleeve panels is found to
be limiting. Pattern shapes of ergonomic garments

need to follow the 3D contour and physiology of the
human body and correspond exactly to the size and
posture of the user. Functional clothing patterns are
therefore best designed in 3D, i.e. on the body itself.
Further, functional garments would require
“zoning” of patterns, i.e. several different fabrics to
make up a pattern piece such as front or side panel,
mesh fabric for ventilation in the underarm area,
compressive fabric for applying pressure on specific
muscles, stretch fabric for providing additional joint
mobility, spacer fabric for insulation or impact
resistance in the chest area and so on (Fig. 3). Thus,
pattern blocks may need to be developed in totally
new ways to allow for use of multiple pieces in a
block. Based on the study of a moving body, patterns
need to be engineered for ergonomic design in such
a way that they allow enhanced mobility and reach
in areas that show strain during vigorous activity
(crotch, under arm, knee and elbow). Articulated knee
and elbow designs need to be worked out. There
are number of current research efforts in the field of
3D body modeling and computerized pattern making
systems using 3D data
18-21
.
Availability of 3D body scans and corresponding
advances in pattern engineering has made it possible
to design in 3D keeping the above considerations
in mind. Pattern shapes are drawn directly on the
3 D scan of the body in action, conforming to the
surface contours as shown in Fig. 4. These selected
3D regions are flattened to produce 2D patterns.
Mechanical properties of fabrics can be factored

in the 3D pattern and a coloured simulation of the
deformation stresses and strains when the garment
is worn can also be seen. Such research will hopefully
lead to reduction in development times and
improvement in fit, besides reducing the uncertainties
inherent in the current design process
22-24
.
4.2 Assembling of Garment Components
Pattern engineering involves the process of
determining the shape and size of each 2D pattern that
Fig. 3—Garments showing zoning of patterns (a) first gear
Kilimanjaro motorcycle jacket, and (b) 2XU men compression
shorts
CLOTHING
333
Fig. 4—Designing in 3D (a) drawing patterns on a cyclist in
motion, and (b) flattening of the 3D patterns
24

will be put together to create a 3D shell. Once these
patterns have been created, they have to be cut,
assembled and joined. They also have to be
connected to the means of opening and closing
the garment (buttons, zippers, fasteners) and such
other accessories that go into the making up of a
complete garment assembly. The shape of patterns as
well as the selection of joining and assembling
technologies (sewing, bonding, fusing) is again
dictated by the activity, posture and environment
in which the user will be operating as well as the
properties of materials used.
Assembling of multiple fabric panels having
varying properties requires sophisticated handling
techniques. Traditionally sewn seams can sometimes
compromise the integrity and functionality
of engineered clothing. New techniques of
joining materials such as taped seams, welding
(high frequency, ultrasonic and laser) and adhesive
bonding are often used to assemble these systems.
3D moulding is another technique used in contoured
garments used for body shaping and support. Because
of these trends, the new age garments are looking
cleaner, fitting better, they are also lighter in weight
and less bulky (Fig. 5).
5 Testing of Clothing for Functionality
Once an assembly has been created, it has to be
tested extensively for performance. Test methods
such as EN469, 1995 are available for testing
of performance clothing, particularly protective

clothing for certification purposes and quality
control. However, these methods continue to test
the properties of constituent materials such as
material heat and vapour resistance, flammability,
tensile behaviour, etc. No matter how good the
properties of fabric are, poor garment design
or construction can compromise its functionality
Fig. 5—Women's mountain hardwear effusion power jacket
having clean lines, non bulky appearance and better fit
severely. Hence, methods that test the whole
garment assembly rather than just the fabric are
required
25
. The compatibility of materials with each
other, their durability and robustness of construction
are also important considerations. Other aspects
of concern relate to the interaction of garment with
the human body, effect of garment design, size, fit
and manufacturing processes on material properties,
etc. Hence, holistic test procedures which test
for physiological load, heat protection, loss
of performance, rain/moisture protection and
conspicuity/visibility of the clothing under actual
conditions of use are the need of the hour.
Development of such test methods can be quite
complex as different classes of functional clothing are
designed for performing under different conditions of
activity and the climatic conditions. Therefore, what
may work under one set of conditions (extreme cold)

will be completely unsuitable in another set of
conditions (hot and humid weather). The efficiency
of a functional clothing system can thus be best
determined by field testing on real humans and then
supported by more precise objectives measures of
fabric properties that correlate to the field results
26
.
Therefore, testing of each type of clothing has to
be carried out under environmental conditions that
simulate the actual conditions of its use. Then again,
use of human subjects for testing and evaluation
raises several issues. Different people will react and
respond differently under identical conditions making
inter and intra subject variability a major problem.
Statistical considerations pertaining to comparison of
different data sets as well as the ethical issues of
conducting tests on humans also have to be tackled.
According to Havenith et al.
27
, standardisation on
334
all these matters needs to be put into place, while
developing what may be called as ‘ergonomic test
procedures’.

6 Challenges Faced by the Functional Clothing
Industry
6
The field of functional clothing is one of the fastest
growing segments of technical textiles market and
has seen tremendous growth in the last one decade.
Yet there are following issues which need to be
addressed before it can attain its real potential:
• This field requires intense R&D inputs to
grow but as of now, suffers from a lack
of adequate research data base, scientific
guidelines and procedures which are needed
to aid the design process. Interdisciplinary nature
of the field further makes research difficult and
expensive.
• Though the industry has seen significant
growth in developed countries, there is a
total lack of information and awareness about
the nature of hazards and current practices
in developing countries. The problem is
compounded by the fact that functional clothing
design is based on geographical, psychological
and socio- cultural considerations. This makes it
difficult to develop generic designs which are
standardized and globally relevant. First hand
data for each geographical and climatic zone
need to be generated.
• Many of the technological developments in the

field of clothing production and assembling
discussed above are still in incipient stages of
adoption by the manufacturing industry. Till the
time that these become mainstream, affordable
and adequate numbers of workers become
proficient in their use and operation, growth is
going to be sluggish.
• Market forces provide another challenge, in that
there is monopolization of high-tech materials
(fibre /yarn /fabric/membranes/ coatings) by a few
large international players. High material costs
and high technological inputs make entry difficult
into this sector.
• The largest buyers of functional clothing are
either government bodies or large corporates who
are often not the users and therefore not aware
of the actual conditions and problems faced by
the users. Unrealistic technical requirements are
therefore put forth in such cases. Good
and reliable user feedback is crucial to the
design of performance wear. Direct channels of
communication between the user and producer
should be opened to facilitate two way flow of
information to facilitate optimal design.
7 Roadmap for Future
Functional clothing industry is a Greenfield
industry with tremendous prospects of growth. But
in order for its true potential to be realized several
steps should be taken. The first relates to an accurate
estimation of the size of the various sectors

particularly in the developing countries with large
population and workforce. Guidelines for research
need to be proposed with global and regional
focus. Multidisciplinary, collaborative, multinational
research groups need to be developed for working
together. Technological developments across relevant
sectors need to be tracked and relevant technologies
integrated into the field on a continuous basis. Active
support and participation by industries in research
can provide a major impetus to the sector.
8 Conclusion
Design and engineering of functional clothing is a
complex and challenging process. What adds to the
complexity is the fact that the existing systems
governing the design of fashion clothing cannot be
used to design performance wear clothing and no
guidelines are available for designing these high
tech systems. User requirements and conditions
of use play a critical role in the entire process of
design, manufacture and testing. Availability of
innovative materials and associated technologies for
production and assembling of clothing ensembles
for specialized functional applications has paved
the path for development of new and innovative
garments capable of providing enhanced comfort and
productivity and reduced physiological strain for the
users. Joint involvement of engineers, designers,
physiologists and ergonomists and the user is needed
to fine tune the material choice, composition, sizing
and assembling issues related to designing of
clothing for a specific end use.

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