Investigacion impresoras 3_d

1

I. INTRODUCTION
a invención de la impresión 3D apunta a dos objetivos
principales: Reducir el tiempo necesario para obtener la
primer versión de un producto y eliminar varias
restricciones de los métodos de producción tradicionales. Por
ejemplo, la impresión 3D permite producir geometrías
complejas o partes interconectadas sin requerir de
ensamblado. También es posible imprimir objetos individuales
así como pequeñas cantidades, rápidamente y a bajo costo.
Esta tecnología también ayuda a reducir la perdida de material
de producción.
La impresión 3D puede producir diferentes objetos sin la
necesidad de usar herramientas especificas o múltiples
herramientas. Así es como la impresión 3D aumenta la
flexibilidad en el flujo de producción y ayuda a reducir los
gastos industriales.Además, debido a que no hay necesidad de
montar una linea de producción, también ayuda a reducir los
tiempos significativamente, permitiendole innovar y fabricar
más rápido. Mientras que los métodos tradicionales de
fabricación están orientados a la producción de miles o
millones de unidades, la impresión 3D es el método más
idóneo para objetos "a pedido" o personalizados.
II. HISTORIA
Para indagar mínima y brevemente en la historia de la
impresión 3D reciente, podemos irnos más o menos hasta
1984, año en que Charles Hull co-fundador de la empresa
estadounidense 3D Systems, saca a el mercado su primera
impresora 3D estereolitográfica o SLS (sintetizado de láser
selectivo), momento en el cual las empresas de todo tipo
comienzan a tener acceso al prototipo de sus productos de
manera rápida aunque no barata, un cambio sustancial en el
modo de desarrollar pequeñas piezas en pre-producción.
No es hasta más adelante cuando empiezan a darse los
primeros prototipos de impresión de materiales capa a capa de
tipo aditivo (manufactura aditiva), con un inyección directa
del material en finísimas capas,normalmente algún tipo de
polímero plástico. Este método es mucho más asequible y
directo, con un tamaño cercano a una producción doméstica y
el principal culpable de su desarrollo exponencial.
Dando otro gran salto hacia adelante para luego ir hacía
atrás de nuevo, a día de hoy todos conocemos por la prensa de
hoy en día muchos ejemplos de impresión 3D con un eco
importante, como el de la famosa WikiPistola, el mediático
proyecto de Defense Distributed para desarrollar armas
directamente impresas en nuestras casas, con un coste
aproximado de 25 dólares.
Pero mucho antes de llegar a estos extremos o usos
perversos de esta tecnología y en el lado contrario, el ámbito
de la salud, a finales de los 90 científicos del Instituto Wake
Forest de Medicina Regenerativa imprimían el primer órgano
humano aportando como material las propias células del
paciente, con un riesgo de rechazo nulo.
Ha sido, como es de suponer, el campo de la medicina
regenerativa uno de los que más se ha beneficiado de esta
tecnología, llegando a ser de uso común y ya casi habitual en
terrenos como el de la odontología, con máquinas capaces de
imprimir nuevas piezas dentales en cuestión de minutos. Años
más tarde, y junto al desarrollo exponencial de la cultura Open
source, comienzan a surgir proyectos de impresoras 3D que
cualquier persona puede montar, mejorar o replicar en su
propia casa con un bajo coste.
III. MATERIALES
Los materiales más usados son el PLA y el ABS, el cual tienen
diferente temperatura de impresión. En la siguiente tabla se
muestran las características y la temperatura de impresión de
varios materiales, los cuales oscilan de 190° a 320° C.
Investigacion IMPRESORAS 3D (Noviembre
2017)
Jose Herney Jimenez Perez
L

2
Material Temperature Comments
PLA
(Original
& Creative
Series)
215°C - 235°C PLA can be printed both with
and without a heated print bed,
but if your desktop 3D printer
does have a heated print bed it
is recommended to set
your print bed temperature to
approximately 60°C - 80°C.
First layer usually 5°C-10°C
higher than subsequent layers.
Glow in the dark use 5°C-10°C
higher.
Sticks well to Blue painter's
tape.
Sticks well to extra strong hair
spray.
Sticks well with "ABS Juice"
(scrap ABS filament dissolved
in acetone)
ABS
(Original
& Creative
Series)
230°C - 240°C Heated print bed
recommended. Set your print
bed temperature to
approximately 80°C - 100°C.
After the first few layers, it’s
best to turn down your print
bed temperature a bit.
Glow in the dark ABS
use 250°C
Sticks well to
Polyimide/Kapton tape, PET
tape, Blue tape.
Sticks well to extra strong hair
spray.
Sticks well with "ABS Juice"
(scrap ABS filament dissolved
in acetone).
smartABS Aprox. 250°C If foam comes out of the
nozzle, the material has to be
dried at ~ 75°C for two hours.
Follow same recommendations
as regular ABS.
HIPS 230°C - 250°C Set your print bed temperature
to approximately 115°C.
HIPS remain pliable until it's
cool. Do not remove your print
until fully cooled or it will
bend.
Will dissolve in approximately
8 to 24 hours when fully
submerged in a Limonene
bath.
PVA 190°C - 220°C Dissolves into regular tap
water. Simply depositing your
part in water will allow the
PVA to begin dissolving.
Results can be agitated by
using hot water and mixing.
Some good results also noticed
at 180°C with heated bed at
40°C.
If the temperature on the
heated bed is too high, it leaves
the PVA flexible and will
allow it to shift.
Decomposes rapidly above
200°C
When used as support material,
increase the density of the
PVA support.
You'll need a printer that has
two extruders to utilize PVA as
a support material
Sticks better to PLA than ABS
when used as a support
material.
When used with ABS as a
support material, you should
keet the PVA support VERY
close (0.1mm) to the ABS
surface and use high support
density for the PVA.
PVA used as a raft will stick
well to tape.
PVA should be completely
dry/dried for best results.
Print at a low speed.
Soft PLA 210°C - 220°C Print slow. Significantly lower
your print speed.Please try
printing at 10-20mm/s.
Reduce retraction
For the build plate, it is
recommended to use blue
masking tape with a thin layer
of glue stick on top.
Set your print bed temperature
to approximately 60°C -
100°C.
Direct feed printer
recommended.
Use a bit of lubricant (like
WD40) in your bowden tube,
although bowden extruders are
not ideal for printing flexible
filaments.
Make sure filament is clean
(free from hand grease).

3
Performs best in printers with
direct-drive extruders
For proper feeding, a spring-
loaded feed mechanism with a
roller bearing is required. Also,
the extruder must support the
filament between the exit of
the drive gear and the entrance
to the melt chamber.
The use of PTFE (teflon) guide
tubes may be beneficial to
further reduce pull at the
extruder.
NinjaFlex 210°C - 225°C Refer to the following link for
official
settings:http://www.ninjaflex3
d.com/support/using-
ninjaflex/printer-settings
to approximately 20°C - 50°C.
direct-drive extruders.
Bowden extruders are not ideal
for printing flexible filaments.
loaded feed mechanism with a
roller bearing is required. Also,
the extruder must support the
filament between the exit of
the drive gear and the entrance
to the melt chamber.
The use of PTFE guide tubes
may be beneficial to further
reduce pull at the extruder.
A heated build plate is not
required in order to
successfully print with
NinjaFlex.
NinjaFlex bonds well to most
surfaces (including aluminum
and glass,blue painters tape,
etc.), so coating the build
platform is not necessary.
Kapton tape can be used with
NinjaFlex, but the adhesion of
the printed part to the tape may
be strongerthan the adhesive
holding the tape to the build
platform.
NinjaFlex generally works
well at similar extruder settings
to ABS; however, adjusting the
printer’s retraction settings can
improve stop/start print
quality. Also, it may be
necessary to reduce the print
speed to approximately
30mm/s.
For 1.75mm filament, 2-3mm
of retraction works well.
For tall thin parts, supports
may need to be designed-in to
prevent the model from flexing
as the print head traverses.
For bridging, NinjaFlex
behaves similarly to ABS and
may be substituted in prints
designed for ABS.
When switching from another
polymer (such as ABS or PLA)
purge thoroughly before
starting a print.
BendLay 215°C - 240°C While printing with high
speed,best layer adhesion can
be obtained at 240°C.
Soluble in brake cleaner;
acetone will make Bendlay
crumble.
Sticks well to ABS and PLA
Laywoo-
D3
165°C - 250°C 165°C - 180°C for bright/light
color wood effect.
210°C - 245°C for darker
wood effect.
Sticks well to the print bed, no
heated bed necessary.
We recommend using a 0.5mm
nozzle to prevent the nozzle
from clogging.
Laybrick 165°C - 210°C 165°C for smoother surfaces.
210°C for rougher surfaces.
Sticks well to the print bed, no
heated bed necessary.
Fan needs to be on.
Wait 2-4 hours after printing
until object is hardened, before
removing it from platform.
Try to print in warm rooms
(20°C or more), the the
filament is more bendable
then.
Use M227 code: f.e. S 30000 P
10000.
Layer-thickness from 0.1 mm
to 0.5 mm.
Slicing: object fill max. 25%.
Thermoch
rome PLA
Aprox. 210°C Follow same recommendations
as regular PLA.
If printed part is < 29°C it will
have an opaque anthracite
Grey color.
If printed part is > 29°C it will
have a translucent / White
color.

4
Nylon PA
6
240°C - 280°C Can't be printed on glass.
Print on cardboard to prevent
warping. Best results achieved
on Garolite. Other/cheaper
alternatives include poplar
wood or PVA/UHU Glue.
to approximately 120°C. (This
may vary depending on your
print surface)
If foam comes out of the
nozzle, the material has to be
dried at ~ 148°C for 3-4 hours.
Overfilling the part will make
a gooey mess.
PETG 230°C - 250°C Set your print bed temperature
to approximately 60°C. If not
using a heated bed, try raising
your hot-end temperature by a
few degrees.
To get the optimal
temperature; start from 230°C
and continue to raise the
temperature until the printers
starts browning the print
regularly, from that point, drop
the temperature by a couple of
degrees and yourset. Make a
note for follow-on prints.
Print on PVA mixed in water,
1 to 4, 1 to 3 ratio. Let it dry
after application.
No cooling required during the
print
No raft. (if the print bed is not
heated,consider using brim
instead,5 or more mm wide.)
Taulman
T-Glase
207°C - 238°C Easily prints to acrylic, glass,
Kapton and other platforms
T-glase is a thicker melt and
likes higher temps from small
nozzles. If t-glase is too cold, it
will not extrude well.
If t-glase is too hot,it will print
a lot of bubbles in the threads.
Optimum temperature is about
212°C to 224°C, but will print
down to 207°C and up to about
238°C+.
Try 238°C with a .4mm or
.25mm nozzles
To find the optimal
temperature for your setup and
printer, we suggest starting at
238°C and increasing the
temperature (even if it prints
fine) until you see a lot of
bubbles at about the 4th layer
up (first layer is slower so it
will have some bubbles). Once
you find that spot,reduce the
temperature down by 5°C and
you're set. Make a note for
follow-on prints.
Complete details available
here: http://www.taulman3d.co
m/t-glase-features.html
Taulman
Nylon 618
Aprox. 245°C 618 will not print/stick to glass
or aluminum print beds.
The best print bed material for
a new useris a flat piece of
unfinished poplar wood or blue
painters tape.
m/618-features.html
Taulman
Nylon 645
Aprox. 245°C 645 will not print/stick to glass
or aluminum print beds.
The best print bed material for
a new useris a flat piece of
unfinished poplar wood or blue
painters tape.
m/645-features.html
Taulman
"Bridge"
Nylon
Aprox. 245°C Use PVA glue, either full
strength or diluted on your
print bed.
m/bridge-features.html
Polycarbo
nate (PC)
250°C - 320°C If left out for in the open air for
a few days (or less in a humid
environment), will need to be
dried before printing. 120°C
for 4 hours.
to approximately 120°C -
130°C.
Printing at higher flow-rates
will require higher extruder
temperatures for a consistent
melt.

5
Those with Bowden style
extruders will need to watch
for signs of excessive force
where the Bowden tube meets
the filament driver and hotend.
Sticks well to "ABS Juice"
(brushed down before hand)
Sticks well to Kapton tape
when using heated print bed.
Some users experience success
with a Garolite heated bed.
Other had good results with
superglue on cool glass and
then heating the bed to 125C -
130C.
PolyMax
PLA
180°C - 240°C For the 1.75mm, the
recommended printing
temperature is 185°C - 200°C
with a heated print bed OR
200°C - 230°C without a
heated print bed.
For the 3.00mm, the
recommended printing
temperature range is 200°C -
230°C.
to approximately 60°C - 70°C.
The recommended printing
speed is 40 - 120 mm/s.
PolyFlex 210°C - 240°C Recommended printing
temperature is: 220°C - 235°C.
Heated print bed not required.
Recommended printing speed:
30 - 60 mm/s.
loaded feed mechanism is
recommended.
Good adhesion to most build
plate surfaces including as blue
tape, Kapton/Polyimide tape,
etc.
Can be used on dual-extruder
printers.
Carbon
Fiber
Reinforce
d PLA
190°C - 230°C Processing is comparable to
standard PLA.
No heated bed required.
Due to increased brittleness,
process may be less consistent
on smaller nozzles and/or
bowden type machines.
Nozzle size: 0.35mm - 0.5mm
Good results were achieved
when printing using a 0.5mm
nozzle and direct-drive spring
loaded pinch-roll style
extrusion head. Layer adhesion
was excellent and warpage was
low.
Polycarbo
nate ABS
(PC-ABS)
260°C - 285°C Heated bed is recommended.
Cross-sectional area should be
minimized.
Drying in an oven for ~ 1hr at
85°C - 95°C may be required
for bubble free high strength
prints.
Good results achieved when
printing small parts using a
.5mm nozzle and direct-drive
spring loaded pinch-roll style
extrusion head.
High
Temperatu
re PLA
190°C - 230°C Processing is comparable to
standard PLA.
No heated bed required,
though a heated bed may help
crystallize the material after
printing and make oven
soaking unnecessary forsome
parts.
Good results achieved when
printing using a .5mm nozzle
and direct-drive spring loaded
pinch-roll style extrusion head.
Layer adhesion was excellent
and warpage was low.
EasyFil
2.85mm
PLA
210°C - 220°C Can be printed both with and
without a heated print bed.
However, if your printer is
equipped with a heated print
bed we recommend to set your
heat bed temperature to 35° -
60°C.
Sticks well to blue masking
tape and extra strong hairspray
Print speed guidline: 40 - 80
mm/s
EasyFil
2.85mm
ABS
220°C - 260°C Recommended to use a heated
print bed.Ideally your print
bed temperature should be set
at approximately 90°C - 110
°C.
ABS will bend undertoo much
heat. After the first few layers,
it’s best to turn down your
print bed temperature a bit.
Sticks well to Kapton, PET
tape, extra strong hair spray
and ABS juice.

6
TPU
(Flexible
Polyuretha
ne)
195°C - 230°C Print slow. Please try printing
at 30mm/s or even less.
to approximately 70°C.
Cooling fan: On
direct-drive extruders.
Bowden type extruders are not
ideal for printing flexible
filaments.
Reduce retraction.
Your extruder should support
the filament between the exit
of the drive gear. to the
entrance to the melt chamber.
When switching from another
polymer (such as ABS or PLA)
purge thoroughly before
starting a print.
Flame
Retardant/
Resistant
ABS
230°C - 250°C Same as printing normal ABS.
Heated print bed
bed temperature to
approximately 110°C.
Wood 200°C - 260°C Set your print bed temperature
to approximately 90°C-110°C.
Cooling fan: ON
Conductiv
e / Anti-
Static
ABS
230°C - 250°C Same as printing normal ABS.
Heated print bed
bed temperature to
approximately 110°C.
Cooling fan not necessary
EasyWood
Coconut
210°C - 220°C Can be printed without a
heated print bed. If your printer
is however equipped with a
heated print bed we
recommend to set your heat
bed temperature to ± 35° to
60°C.
Sticks well to an unprepared
print bed or masking tape.
Print speed guideline: 40 - 100
mm/s
Porolay
Porous
Gel
225°C - 235°C Remember that this is an
experimental material for
experienced users!
A heated bed is not necessary
Store filament in a dry place, if
it gets wet over time, dry it in
oven at 80° for several hours;
After drying printed objects
will be hot-sealable.
For maximum flexibility rinse
printed object in tap water for
1 to 4 days.Shorten rinsing
time by printing less
walls/shells and less filling %.
Taulman3
D Flexible
PCTPE
225°C - 230°C Prints on bowdens or direct
drive extruder.
Prints on glass with a 50%
water/PVA glaze heated to
40°C
Es importante conocerla capacidad de cada material en
términos de Resistencia, durabilidad, soporte de temperatura,
si es o no Biodegradable, etc.. para realizar cualquier proyecto
en impresora 3D.
Impresora
3D
Tecnología Tamaño
cama de
impresión
(mm)
Categoría Precio
(€)
Original
Prusa i3 MK2S
FDM 250 x 210
x 200
Bajo
presupuesto
999
Printrbot
Simple Pro
FFF 200 x 150
x 200
Bajo
presupuesto
850
FlashForge
Creator Pro
FDM 145 x 225
x 150
Máquina
fiable
760
CEL
RoboxDual
FFF 150 x 210
x 100
Plug & Play 648
Tiertime UP
Mini 2
FFF 120 x 120
x 120
Bajo
presupuesto
510
Wanhao
Duplicator i3
Plus
FFF 200 x 200
x 180
Bajo
presupuesto
479
Creality CR-
10
FDM 300 x 300
x 400
Bajo
presupuesto
440
Formlabs
Form 2
SLA 145 ×
145 ×
175
Prosumidor 3991
Ultimaker 3 FFF 197 x 215
x 200
Prosumidor 2995
(sin
IVA)
BCN3D
Sigma R17
FDM 210 x 297
x 210
Máquina
fiable
2655
Anet A8 FDM 220 x 220
x 240
Bajo
presupuesto
215

7
Lulzbot Taz
6
FFF 280 x 280
x 250
Máquina
fiable
2120
MakerGear
M3
FFF 203 x 254
x 203
Máquina
fiable
2020
Monoprice
MP Select Mini
FFF 120 x 120
x 120
Bajo
presupuesto
200
Ultimaker
2+
FFF 230 x 225
x 205
Prosumidor 1895
(sin
IVA)
Zortrax
M200
FDM 200 x 200
x 185
Plug and
Play
1800
Robo R2 FDM 203,2 x
203,2 x
254
Plug & Play 1270
CraftBot
Plus
FDM 250 x 200
x 200
Plug & Play 1071
Lulzbot Mini FDM 152 x 152
x 158
Plug & Play 1060
IMPRESORAS Y COSTOS
Encontramos una table con los precios mas adsequibles para
impresoras 3d (precio en dolares):
Modelo Fabricante Tamaño precio
Buccaneer
3D printer
Pirate 3D 150x100x120 347.00
Printrbot Jr Printrbot 114x140x102 399.00
Prusa
Mendel
Mixshop 200x200x140 439.00
Sumpod
Delta
Sumpod 180x180x200 463.00
Mix G1 MixShop 170x150x170 499.00
Solidoodle
2ºGen
Solidoodle 152x152x152 499.00
Portabee
3D Printer
Portabee 120x120x120 499.00
Printrbot Jr Printrbot 102x102x102 499.00
Printrbot
LC
Printrbot 152x152x152 549.00
Durbie
Prusa
Mendel
Portabee 200x200x140 585.00
Orca Makemendel 220x220x165 649.00
RapidBot
1.0
MakeMendel 220x220x165 649.00
Printrbot
PLUS
Printrbot 203x203x203 699.00
RapidBot
3.0
Makemendel 220x220x165 699.00
RapidBot
2.0
Makemendel 220x220x165 749.00
3Dkits F
Complet
3Dkits 400x520x370 750.00
Solidoodle
3Gen
Solidoodle 203x203x203 799.00
Prusa
Mendel
MakerGear 203x203x203 799.00
Bukobot
Mini
"Green"
Deezmaker 125x125x125x 850.00
UP! mini PP3DP 120x120x120x 899.00
GRRF
Protos
GRG 225x225x140 923.00
Tantillus
3D printer
Tantillus 225x225x140 925.00
DIY (Hazlo tu mismo)
Existen impresoras como la Hephestos de BQ que te envian
los suministros y tu te encargas de montarla desde 0. Lo
interesante es que es de software libre y la placa es del
conocido Arduino. Esto es especialmente llamativo a las
personas que les gusta las modificaciones o les gusta como se
dice “cacharriar” con sistemas como estos. El costo 999 Euros.

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