Presentation by Andreas Schleicher Tackling the School Absenteeism Crisis 30 ...
Chile Sslc July 2010
1. July
2010 Short Stories, Long Country
IS S UE 1
WorldTeachers having some fun with sand
and cameras on the beach in Viña del Mar.
2. Message from the FD
Allyson Caudill
WorldTeach Chile Field Director
Chile. From its Atacama desert to its glaciers down in Patagonia, you can find curi-
ous, slightly confused, but generally cheerful gringos. These gringos have come to
Chile to try their hand at not only teaching English, but also educating Chilean
youth in fields like Square Dancing, American slangs such as AWESOME and OMG,
and the Electric Slide. Additionally, there have been mountains of empanadas con-
quered, embarrassing "gringo" moments survived, and Facebook groups created to
commemorate volunteers mistaken to be Justin Timberlake.
“Always keep a
positive attitude!” WorldTeach Chile volunteers, past and present, are making tremendous contribu-
tions to English education while simultaneously building cultural bridges. Individu-
- Allyson ally they are motivators, mentors, superstars and most of all, teachers. I have wit-
nessed their charisma and exceptional creativity. I have watched them do whatever
it takes to ensure student understanding, including doing the Hokie Pokie to teach
body parts, painting their faces to teach colors, and literally drenching themselves in
water to teach "rain." If the end result is learning, there is nothing they won't do.
In the following pages you will get a glimpse into what it truly means to be a World-
Teach Chile volunteer - the comedy, the drama, the adventure. I encourage all of
you, current volunteers and alumni, to take advantage of every learning (and teach-
ing) opportunity and to always remember that you are a part of the ever-expanding
WorldTeach Chile familia.
Onward and upward!
Allyson
About WorldTeach
Based at the Center for International Development at Harvard University, World-
Teach offers the benefits of a well-established volunteer organization, while also
providing more comprehensive, personalized support and training as a small
NGO. In each of our programs, volunteers are placed in schools and host com-
munities in developing countries that specifically request WorldTeach volunteers
and would otherwise be unable to afford or locate qualified teachers. Volun-
teers receive training, language preparation, and field support, empowering
them to make an impact that will last long after they leave.
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3. Table of Contents
On Our Way: First Impressions 4
I Chose Chile Because... 5
All Settled In: La Vida Chilena 6
Causes for Celebration: National Holidays 7
You Know You‟re In Chile When… 8
At School 9
Chile in the World Cup 11
At Home 12
On the Road (and Off) 14
Pan y Palta: Musings About Chilean Cuisine 16
El Terremoto 18
From the Editors
To all Past, Present, and Prospective Volunteers, Family and Friends,
Last March, thirteen gringos arrived in Santiago. We quickly realized that the
one thing we shared in common was that we had no idea what we were in for. We Heather Tang
come from different places, different backgrounds, and different life experi-
ences. Such a diverse crowd to have chosen such a unique experience. But the fact
that we are all here is reflective of the characteristics we truly share: an eagerness
to help others, an interest in new cultures, and a maybe a little sense of adventure.
We began this newsletter as a way to share our stories, thoughts, and experiences
before, during, and after our Chilean life. We have experienced a new way of life,
in big and small ways, and here is our chance to be reflective, funny, sentimen-
Allison Hahn
tal, cheesy- any or all- in order to convey our experience.
Thank you to everyone who contributed to this issue. We are proud of what we
have accomplished and we are excited to share our thoughts and stories. Thank
you to our wonderful field director, Allyson Caudill. Without your drive and or-
ganization, we would all be lost and confused and this newsletter would never ex-
ist. Also, thanks to all the volunteers and their family and friends for their sup-
port. WorldTeach Chile is an amazing program and we are all so happy to count
ourselves a part of it. Lauren Phillips
Besitos y abrazitos,
The Editors
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4. On Our Way: First Impressions
Fast City, Fast Friends nerves, excitement, and knowledge that we would be
By Brandy Hearn spending the next eight months together allowed us to
spill our guts and relax.
I have been told that the first stage of culture shock After six hours, we landed in Santiago and were immedi-
occurs right when you arrive in a new environment ately greeted, besos and all, by our Field Director, Ally-
and usually consists of an overwhelming sense of son, and Assistant FD, Rad, who proclaims herself as a
euphoria and excitement. Luckily, my arrival in Chile "halfrican-american." My mood couldn't have taken a
did in fact abide to that rule but only when I saw the faster turn. All of a sudden I was surrounded by the aura
Andes mountains that is Chile and filled with complete and utter excite-
from the plane and ment. Standing outside of the airport for what seemed
stepped foot onto like ages, we met Corrie and Heather who had taken a
Chilean soil. Below is different flight and made our way to the hostel.
a brief account of my Londres was quaint to say the least. The hostel,
first impressions of promptly named Hotel Londres was as perfect as you
not only Chile but of could get for a hostel. The staff was nice, the rooms
the WorldTeach pro- were clean and we even had a local street dog named
gram and volunteers Cafe after the adorable and affordable cafe down the
themselves. street. There was a living room which acted as a wifi cen-
While sitting at the ter and a kitchen which gave way to great conversation,
Miami International great food, and great singing. The thirteen of us grew
Airport hotel lobby very close, very quickly. There was this unsaid un-
Chile Ministry 2010 in front of derstanding that the more we acted like a real family
looking into the ex- La Moneda.
cited yet terrified faces of the other and the more open we were to each other, the easier
volunteers in my program, the first thought that went this experience would be on us all.
through my mind was, "Holy crap, is this still a good I was in awe by Santiago and with whom I was sharing
idea? I just completely left my life at home for the this experience. The city is incredible, with everything
unknown..." The second was, "What the hell did I get you can imagine. We were quickly exposed to empana-
myself into?!" Little did I know that those faces das, pisco colas, discotecas, Pablo Neruda, the Cueca,
would later become my family and my uncertainty as Terremotos (an amazing beverage which consists of white
to whether or not "this" was a good idea would rap- wine and pineapple ice-cream), completos, fruit stands,
idly fade. pan y palta, almuerzo, and of course, the wine. Long live
The first person I saw was Jeremy with his scruffy Gato and 120. To say the least, I was fully in my first
beard and rasta jewelry. Then, Lauren's goldilocks stage of culture
hair caught my eye. Within two minutes, Allison shock and couldn't
laughed and I didn't think I would ever find someone have been hap-
with a more vivacious laugh than me. I quickly began pier. I was con-
to put together the faces with the names I had be- stantly stimulated
come accustomed to reading over the previous by my surround-
months due to our Google group. ings and the peo-
Finally, after what seemed to be hours on end, we ple I became lucky
boarded the plane. Allison and I decided to sit next enough to call my
to each other giving way to chatting about everything friends.
from New Orleans and New York to the men in our After conquering Cerro San Cristobal and the
lives. It was incredible how open we both were after
just a few minutes of knowing each other. I guess the Orbitz 10K run for earthquake relief!
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5. Chile Chose Me Why Now...at 50, in Chile?
By Allison Hahn By Susan Vance
Here I am. Am I really doing this? Looks like it…” I al- I am 50--
ways wanted to travel abroad for an extended period of Isn't it late
time, to live with a host family, to learn Spanish and I to follow my dream
wanted to do these things in South America. Yeah, A very old dream?
much easier said than done.
The anticipation is the worst part, and this was no ex- At 50--
ception. For months, I knew I would be moving to Shouldn't I rest,
Chile. Every dollar I made, every dollar I spent, I Stay at home
thought about Chile. I was ready, or so I Enjoy my last years?
thought. Moving to Chile required me to sever my
bond with my other love: New Orleans. Could I possi- At 50--
bly handle that? And what a whirlwind: the day after Should't things slow down
Mardi Gras, with 3.5 hours of sleep, I barely crammed Shouldn't I unwind
the last of my belongings in my car and off I drove to and take it easy?
Virginia, to my parent‟s house and storage unit for the
year. As I saw the last vista of my city in the rearview But what about my dream,
mirror, the damn broke down neither for the first or I've had since I was 15,
last times. to teach, to go to the South?
I allotted myself three weeks in Virginia to prepare for To speak Spanish???
Chile. Unfortunately, they were three weeks to con-
sider, reconsider and doubt more. Two weeks until my What about my Dream?
departure, the south of Chile was devastated by an 8.8 To live with a host family,
magnitude earthquake. I was glued to the TV for as Who knows no English
long as CNN would report, and my future was now When I am forced to learn?
completely unknown. Do I apply for jobs in Virginia?
Do I move back to New Orleans? Do I travel elsewhere The time is NOW--
in South America? In this country‟s moment of need, I I can wait NO more...
found clarity. I knew I was doing the right thing. All I am here, in Chile,
doubts about my decision immediately dissipated: To teach, to learn, to grow
there was nowhere I would rather go and nowhere that
needed me more than Chile. Chile chose me. How much time do I have left?
I do not know...
It is not too late
I am only 50, while I am in Chile.
I chose Chile because...
...of the incredible diversity in
landscapes, endless variety of out-
door activities, and the prospect of
snowboarding in July.
…it’s a beautiful place to be OUTSIDE. You can’t help but
… I was accepted to the program. -Heather Tang
explore the diversity in nature of the country.
-Allison Hahn
-Lauren Phillips
...it has cheap avocado and stable elec- ...I miss Alaska, but wanted to go
tricity, and I really, really love mayon- south to teach and learn Spanish.
naise. -Susan Vance
...because I have been fascinated with
-Chris Doherty the country after reading Peter Winn's
Weavers of Revolution, which explores
the social, economic, and political tur-
...subconsciously I wanted to have my moil in the 1970s.
expectations confounded.
-Carol Eckman -Stephen Hildebrand
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6. Chile’s Other Population
By Carol Eckman
Gloria, my new host has two dogs, an older cocker spaniel and a poodle. most Chileans do not allow their dogs into the
house. While the dogs have some place to move around outside, it isn´t large. Many of the dogs function as guard dogs,
out of boredom probably rather than training. They bark at anything that moves. In my old neighborhood, Los Pinos,
there were so many dogs that the entire neighborhood resounded with furious barks day and night. Some of the dogs
look pretty neglected. This is in addition to the large population of street dogs that wander around and seem to be fed by
people. Today at my school i watched older students do an improvised obstacle course in gym class. A street dog had
found its way into the inner courtyard and lay peacefully sleeping in the middle of the path used by the kids, who made
an extra little jump over the dog, who continued in repose. It is not uncommon for several dogs to be inside the school
grounds. They are tolerated everywhere, in Santiago under the noses of Carabiñeros at government buildings and in the
parks. They traverse at the crosswalk and exude an air of confidence. Only the street dogs can be found sleeping in posi-
tions of complete oblivion. The domesticated rest of them are on edge for the next barkable sound.
So of course I have started taking my host´s dogs, Max and Canella, out for walks. Both of them pull unmercifully but
seem so grateful and excited to get outside that it´s worth the struggle. I think it has been over six months since they
have been out, and then not regularly. Clearly, there is another concept at work here about dogs.
On the other hand, if the Chileans were to hear about the way Gringos treat their beloved pooches, they would surely say
that we´re insane.
La Vida Chilena The huasos at a rodeo Sharon attended
in Olmue.
10 Things I’ve Learned In Chile -By Sharon Welch
1. Family is very important to Chileans, and the family meal usually turns into a small party every evening. I talk much
longer with my Chilean family than I do with my own family. We are always in a hurry at home.
2. Don‟t toast your bread over the center of the oven, or it will smoke and burn.
3. Red wine in Chile is inexpensive, plentiful and delicious. Viva Carmenere!
4. Wear your hat to bed so that you don‟t wake up from the cold. Pull the covers over your face. Leave a breathing hole.
5. If one layer of polar underwear is not enough, wear two layers. Discover the many uses of Chilean
scarves.
6. Don‟t believe the legal looking sign about only four passengers in a collectivo. I‟ve driven with 7 people in a small
car. Two of us sat on top of the sign.
7. You won‟t have a dry towel in the morning unless you hang it the spokes over the stove to dry at night.
8. Never underestimate the power of a good lock and key.
9. The rules of a Chilean rodeo. The goal is to control the calf along the back wall with 2 horsemen. It was interesting to
watch the competition although I am sure that the cows were not so happy. One jumped into the stands with me!
10. There are Chilean cowboys called “Huasos” ,and they are skillful horsemen.
PAGE 6
SSLC
7. To Home Remedy or Not?
By Allison Hahn
Sometimes I forget I‟m in Chile
Causes for Celebration
and need to be reminded. I‟m not
quite sure why this is but some-
times certain things will happen
Chile National Holidays 2010
and I‟ll be like “Yeah, I live in
CHILE!” That was until I got sick, Month Day Holiday Local Name
then it was quite regular: “Yeah, January 1 New Year’s Day Año Nuevo
only in Chile…” I was doing a
really good job at avoiding culture
shock: Enter strep throat. 17 Presidential Election Segunda Votación de la
As I began to experience the first Run-Off Elección Presidencial
pangs of pain, I thought I‟d nip it
in the bud and go to the doctor
early. My host mom and I went to April 2 Good Friday Viernes Santo
the Consultorio for a penicillin
shot in the ol‟ poto and a prescrip- 3 Holy Saturday Sábado Santo
tion. That night I even thought I
might go to school the next day! I
was feeling GOOD! Wait, I spoke May 1 Labour Day Día del Trabajo
too soon. The following three days
were horrible. I actually finished
21 Navy Day Día de las Glorias Navales
all of my pain meds from the US. I
mean, I couldn‟t speak Spanish
anyways, but I could not speak at June 28 Saint Peter and San Pedro y San Pablo
all now. Forget eating. I had a golf Saint Paul
ball in my throat. After three days
of unrelenting pain, I Googled my
meds: only in Chile would a doctor July 16 Our Lady of Virgen del Carmen
prescribe an anti-inflammatory for Mount Carmel
strep. Still my family persisted that
I just be patient and rest. After I
returned to the doctor, things ap- August 15 Assumption of Mary Asunción de la Virgen
peared a little more serious. I fi-
nally received a real prescription September 18 Independence Day Fiestas Patrias
and was recommended to go to a
Clinica in Vina del Mar where I
was told I might need sur- 19 Army Day Día de las Glorias del
gery. Perfect! Ejército
Thankfully, surgery was not neces-
sary, just some actual treat-
ment. Even after all of this, to my October 11 Columbus Day Día del Descubrimiento de
family, patience was still the Dos Mundos
cure. Home remedies include gar-
gling vinegar and drinking onion 31 Reformation Day Día Nacional de las Iglesias
juice as well. And the preventative Evangélicas y Protestantes
measures?...Wearing a sweater
(body temperature does not mat-
November 1 All Saints Day Día de Todos los Santos
ter) and a scarf to protect your
neck and mouth!
“Really? Yep, I live I Chile. And I December 8 Immaculate Conception Inmaculada Concepción
still love it!”
25 Christmas Day Navidad
31 Banking Holiday Feriado Bancario de
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8. You know you’re in Chile when...
...you start to crave pan y palta for every meal and
...white bread is a food group.
when you don‟t get it for every meal, you get cranky.
...you see and hear a parade in the street, people dancing, ...you get strep throat from one or all of the
and the proud Chilean flag waves in the air.
following: not covering your neck with a scarf,
not covering your mouth with a scarf, taking
...there is a law for everything posted pub- off your sweater, or not wearing slippers.
licly —and it is (almost) always followed.
...after 5 days of being too sick to eat, according to ...the dogs outnumber the people
your host mom, a single bon bon will make you a on the streets of your town.
gordita.
...THE in hair style is the mullet.
...huasos ride past while you wait for the …you find hotdogs very creatively dis-
bus in the morning. guised in almost every dish.
...hitch-hiking is considered a legitimate form of transportation. ...wake up, see sunshine, and think, “I can dry
my laundry today!”
…every Spanish word has an ito or ita added on the end:
chaoito, tecito, paltita, permicito, chicitita, and the list goes on... ...you tell the woman at the hostel you need 9
beds and she says they don‟t have 9 so you
...you can walk down the street with an ice cream leave and then come back and just ask for all
cone in one hand and a cone of fries in the other and the beds they have which happens to be way
not feel guilty! more than 9.
Favorite Chilenismos …“Qué dijiste?” Chileans speak their
own dialect of Spanish
full of idiosyncrasies
Phrase Meaning Use and idioms called
“Chilenismos” not
Al tiro at the gun shot -right away
Bacán (adj) cool -describing something cool found in any other Span-
Cabros (n) goats -when referring to teenagers ish-speaking country.
Cachai? Got it? -checking for understanding
Comprar terreno (v) to buy land -when you fall/eat it/crash and burn
Chau Bye -when parting ways
Es lo que hay It is what it is -situations you can‟t control
Filete (adj) filet (the best cut of meat) -one of the many uses: Cool
Fome (adj) boring; lame -boring or lame situations
Fondo blanco (n, v) white bottom -CHUG!
Machucao (adj) crazy -used by flaite (ghetto)
Tipo (n) type -when referring to a guy
Tuto (n) slumber; nap -when going to sleep
Weon (n) ass; buddy -you can call the guy who just cut you off this or your
best friend, depending on the context
Yo lo pasé chancho I was like a pig -I had a great time
Po -Added to ends of words and phrases for emphasis
Dropping the “s” in words -Examples: seis=sei; estás=etai; gracias=gracia
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9. Me…a teacher?
By Jeremy Gould
There were many aspects of living in Chile that I was sure I
would have no problems adjusting to, given my very flexible
and adaptive nature. Teaching was not one of these things.
In fact, there was nothing I was really worried about other
than teaching. So many questions crossed my mind. Am I
organized enough to be a teacher? Am I too “easy-going” to
maintain discipline in a classroom? Regardless of my wor-
ries, I knew what I wanted to do, and I assumed that if “my
heart was in the right place,” everything else would work
Students at Colegio Fernando Durán , Quilpué itself out.
Orientation came and went, and there I was on the way to
my placement site for the first time. On the shuttle ride to
my school, I remember being told by teachers from other
schools, “just remember that if you are uncomfortable at
this school, you can always switch to a different one.” The
first time they said this, I didn‟t give it much thought and
we continued bouncing down the road on the rickety bus.
After the second and third time the host teachers restated
that I could switch schools if necessary (without saying
such to the other two volunteers in the car), I began to won-
der why they might be saying this, and what exactly I had
gotten myself into. As we got closer and closer to the
school, my heart rate continued to rise, my thoughts racing
anxiously. As we walked through the gates of the school,
Lauren Phillips with her students in Cachagua. the shouts echoed, “Llegaron los gringos!!”
Over the next few days, I understood why I was told that I
could switch schools. I teach at a high school that has the
reputation of being the worst in the commune, and one of
the worst in the entire fifth region. I was told by many peo-
ple to take nothing of value to my school. It is supposedly
where “the bad kids” are sent. While this description
sounds like the preface to a teacher‟s horror-story, my ex-
perience has been nothing short of “a blast.” Every time
that I walked into a classroom during that first week, the
room would explode in cheers, whistles and kisses. I still
cannot walk through the corridor without flocks of students
coming up to me and enthusiastically repeating phrases I
taught them in English class. While there is definitely truth
to the school‟s reputation, the real truth is that they are
Heather Tang and her students in Quilpué . NOT bad kids, but rather good kids who have grown up in
very destructive, poverty-stricken environments. Nearly all
of my students have responded very well to my presence.
My host-teacher tells me that my students love me and that
she has never seen them like this before. As with any high
school, there are students with behavior issues, but being a
former “bad-kid,” I definitely have a soft spot for the trou-
ble-makers. The reality is that most of them just want
someone to believe in them, and laugh with them.
As far as my worries about being a teacher, I am no longer
insecure, although there is still much to be learned of
course. As far as my “bad school,” I couldn‟t feel more like I
was in the right place. Overall, teaching at my school has
already proven to be the most rewarding and fulfilling ex-
perience I have ever had. I can only hope that my time here
Brandy Hearn’s students in Quilpué doesn‟t pass too fast and that the students will remember
this as much as I will.
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10. My Four-Legged Students
By Leighann Loesch
Before coming to Chile I received many different stories
from past volunteers and numerous useful suggestions
on how to best adapt to living and working in my new
home. I was not told, however, of a very prominent part
of the Chilean population: stray dogs. There are dogs
living EVERYWHERE.
My town, which is a fishing pueblito just North of Valpa- Do Schools Have Anniversaries in the
raiso, often has more dogs than people out on a Friday
night. The biggest surprise for me was arriving to my United States?
school the first day to find dogs walking around the By Stephen Hildebrand
courtyard and in and out of the bathrooms and cafeteria. “Do schools have anniversaries in the United States?” one
Stray dogs in the school! of my co-teachers asked. “Not like this,” I said. I knew
But I soon realized these dogs are smart. The smaller things were going to get interesting when my co-teacher
children feed them, they are blocked from the wind offered me Tylenol as a preventive measure against head-
within the courtyard of the school, and one tiny dog, aches; she said that it was going to get loud.
I teach at a vocational technical school, and the school was
who I have affectionately named Muffin, artfully slipped divided into teams based on what the students study: from
building to electronics to auto repair, etc. The teams then
compete in a variety of activities.
First, all the students gathered in the courtyard chanting
slogans, some of which were rather rude, beating on large
drums. After enough animosity was built up, the other ac-
tivities commenced including a dancing contest that relied
heavily on the 20 girls in the school of 1000. This ended
when one of the boys took off his shirt and wrapped it
around his partner to pull them together. They started to
make out—which is apparently the line that you do not
cross.
into a classroom at the end of the day and came walking In the first football game I watched, everything was going
out when I opened the door the next morning. He must well until one of the students from the orange team ran
have had a feast from the trashcan not to mention how over to punch one of the students on the blue team—both
much warmer it was to sleep indoors. of these students were spectators mind you. After that one
student chased the perpetrator who then tripped over a
There is a Rottweiler mix running around and a German large rock. In solidarity all of his team rushed the field.
Sheppard mix who I believe is the leader as he is wearing Not to be outdone, the other team also streamed on to the
a tie. (Poor dog! No doubt some kid put that on him but field. All of the teachers and I then ran into the middle of
it does make the scene humorous). the fray. Alejandro, a math teacher, and I pulled the origi-
nal perpetrators apart and then he dragged them by their
There are a few dogs that are so unwell just looking at
shirt collars to the inspector. In the meantime the other
them that it breaks my heart but it is a hard task to con-
teachers and I formed a line to separate the two teams.
vince the people of this area that taking care of these
Then the students (both spectators and players) had to
dogs is important when many people are struggling to
leave the field one at a time.
take care of themselves. I want to help in some way but
Fear not, the fun was not over—the next day the school
the task seems daunting.
had more anniversary activities, including a singing com-
My first step is planting seeds in the minds of my stu- petition. It was a lot fun to see how musically talented
dents, how they can help with this problem, especially many of the students are; it was also fun to see them be-
one who is planning to study veterinary medicine. This having so well.
will be a long process for Chile and will need the help of Back in the courtyard the students began to gather for a
many generous volunteers but I am determined to get performance by a live band that played many interesting
the ball rolling. covers including “Play That Funky Music, White Boy".
Although it is hard to top such a classic, the band played
For now I will say hola to my four legged students every-
more songs for the delighted and tired students who were
day and feed them bits of food when I have it. What
at last ready to go home.
seemed so funny when I first arrived has become a nor-
I think the staff was ready too—I knew I was!
mal part of my experience teaching in Chile.
SSLC PAGE 10
11. in the World Cup 2010
South Africa
Our students showing their World Cup fever and
their support for LA ROJA!
Worldteacher, Sharon,
“CHI CHI CHI! celebrating the game.
LE LE LE! VIVA CHILE!”
La Roja en el mundial!
SSLC PAGE 11
12. 8 Meses
By Corrie Littlepage
When my family first signed up to have a volunteer
live with them they were told it would only be for one
month. A couple days before I arrived they were told
it was for six months. This update surprised them,
but they were still willing to open their home up to a
volunteer for six months. The day I arrived they were
told eight months, which is a little longer than 6
months and a whole lot longer than 1 month . When
they first told me I was super apologetic, not that I
had any control over it. But then right away it turned
into a huge joke in my house. Whenever I am intro-
duced to someone and they ask me how long I will be
here the whole family chimes in "OCHO meses" and
the story is retold. I am sure we will still be telling the Brandy, Jeremy, and Steve at Bennet’s host-
joke till the day I leave.
mother’s 50th birthday asado in Catapilco.
My family has done more than just open their home
up to me. They have made me a
part of their family. People in Poto Grande
Chile ask me if I will come back By Allison Hahn
and visit after I leave and every
Learning Spanish has proven
time I am asked this, my mom
to be difficult. I knew that
reminds me that I have a family would be the case and I was
in Chile. I have a little sister who ready. But wow, they talk
is 17 and a little brother who is 13 really fast here. They slur all
and this is home. My family is a their words. Oh yeah, they
huge blessing to me and I am don‟t actually speak Spanish
incredibly grateful for them. This is the beauty of im- here: they speak Chilean. Phew. I am IN for it!
mersing yourself into a different culture. I remember Given this, my hope is that being exposed to the language
walking into the house that first day not knowing as much as possible, regardless of whether or not I actually
anything about my family or my life to come in Chile, participate in the conversation or whether or not I am actu-
but in the midst of that I had this peaceful feeling ally following the conversation, I will eventually just know!
Yes, with the language merely in the air, I will absorb the
that I was home.
words like osmosis. I think it‟s a good plan.
Well about a month into my home stay, my theory really
had not quite proven itself. So rarely did I actually under-
stand the content of the conversation that happened in
front of me. FORGET any sort of eavesdropping. Or so I
thought…
Given my inappropriate packing to Chile (um it‟s cold here
and I‟m coming from Louisiana), my family often lends me
clothes. One day my host mom tried to lend me a pair of
pants that could get dirty. Surprise, my 6‟1” body did not fit
into my Chilean mom‟s clothes. That was when I heard my
host brother explaining that I did not fit into them because
of my „poto grande,‟ or big butt, to which I burst from my
room exclaiming that “I understood that!” The entire family
was completely caught off guard and erupted in a roar of
laughter. And that was the first time I accidentally under-
stood Spanish! I was making progress.
Corrie with her host family in La Calera.
SSLC PAGE 12
13. Lots of People in the South Love Watching Tectonic Plates
By Heather Tang
The language barrier can be really frustrating at times but having already moved to two countries without knowing the
languages first, I've generally learned to stay relaxed and shrug off inabilities to communicate when they come up. It's
especially comical now because I'm in a stage where I can understand enough to get the gist of some conversations, but a
lot of times it's not quite the right gist and I end up chiming in with some kind of awkwardly composed, remotely-related
answer. The Spanish is coming, but 80% of the time, I still have no idea what's going on. It doesn't help that Chileans
speak a million miles an hour, slur/cut short their words, and have an entire dictionary full of chilenismos, only-used-in-
Chile idioms.
My 12-year old host sister, Ayun was working on some kind of project with Styrofoam after once one night and I asked
Charo, my host mom, what it was about. Charo can't speak any English but she's pretty good at explaining things in sim-
pler Spanish until I can understand it for the most part. So she told me what Ayun was doing, and I couldn't make out the
meaning on the first couple of tries. My comprehension of simple Spanish has soared compared to what it was (nothing)
before I moved in, but this was more specialized language about the topic of the project, and I was lost.
On another try, I caught the word "Nascar" and was pretty bewildered that she would be doing a project on race car driv-
ing in the US but hey, this is Chile so who knows? In Spanish, I said, "Nascar?? Why is she doing that topic? That's in-
teresting. Nascar is very popular in the south of the United States and many people love watching it. Not in the north
though."
Charo just looked at me a little confused, then just smiled and shrugged her shoulders. And that was that.
The next day, Ayun was working on it again in the kitchen and preparing a map of the world to stick onto the Styrofoam,
which host dad, Norman, was helping her cut into the shapes of countries with a hot butter knife. At first I thought, how
is this related to Nascar, but then just decided to sit back and watch. Finally, I asked Ayun what she was actually working
on, and she told me a history project on placas tectonicas (tectonic plates).
Ohhhhhhhhh...okay. Then why did Charo tell me Nascar?
At that moment, Norman started talking about the plates under Chile that caused the 8.8 magnitude earthquake in Feb-
ruary and mentioned the name Placa de Nazca very quickly. Having just read about these plates under the country when
I was writing on the geography a little while ago, it clicked.
So I had told my host mom that tectonic plates, specifically the Nazca, were very popular in the south of the US and peo-
ple love to watch them.
She must have thought I was out of my mind, and in a way, I guess I was.
...paltas (avocados) and grapes EVERY
...collectivos (inexpensive taxis on set DAY! I also can't live without onces: I
routes that you share with others going now love hot tea, bread and honey at
the same direction) - Carol Eckman 7pm nightly. -Susan Vance
...my fleece jacket. Yeah, I wear it
...tea, with an absurd amount of honey and
palta, palta, palta (avocado, avocado, everyday… -Allison Hahn
avocado) .
-Lauren Phillips
...my Joe To Go one cup coffee brewer and care packages
...a lot of small change to of coffee from home. -Leighann Loesch
take the micro (local bus). ...a flexible sense of time and an understanding
-Stephen Hildebrand that the word "po" doesn't actually mean any-
thing. -Chris Doherty ...my camera, it’s my memory.
...my pantuflas (Slippers). -Heather Tang
-Corrie Littlepage
In Chile, IIcan’t live without...
In Chile, can’t live without...
SSLC PAGE 13
14. On the Road (and Off)
Travel In Chile
Traveling, Or Not
By Lauren Phillips
Every day I claim that next week I am going to start recording how many minutes I average waiting for the micro each
week. The micro (which is a local bus, versus the giant buses that travel to more distant locations) is my main form of
transportation in Chile. My town is on the coast and consists of about 850 people. Apparently during the summer it is so
packed that the constant flow of micros cannot even pass through town. I have yet to witness this phenomenon.
On multiple occasions I‟ve spent more than two hours waiting for a micro to pass through. There‟s something comical
about bidding your Chilean family farewell only to have them stroll by the bus stop two hours later and you are still sit-
ting there, waiting for the bus that may or may not be coming.
Often I spend this time calculating the minutes I would save and the freedom I would have if I only had a car. Or I con-
template how much closer I could be to my destination if I had only started walking from the get-go. And yet, some of my
best times in Chile have been spent in the shelter of a bus stop.
This time is usually quality bonding time with friends. What else is there to do
but chat and people watch? And when I am without friends, there are al-
ways friendly people passing by. Or someone else who is waiting for the bus
who is interested the gringa and wants to chat. And if there‟s really no one
at all, then it‟s the perfect location for the fallback time-passer: life contem-
plation.
It‟s a very Chilean experience to be hanging out at the bus stop. There‟s no
rush, the bus just comes when it comes. There‟s no such thing as a sched-
ule—everyone is on Chilean time. And the people have accepted this system;
no one complains about the bus not coming and they just wait patiently. Some-
times four micros pass with the same destination before one arrives going in my
direction and there is no explanation for this apparent oddity—very Chilean.
Another Chilean characteristic that is brought out by waiting at a bus stop: offering rides to strangers. I have never actu-
ally hitch-hiked but I have been offered numerous rides while waiting at the bus stop and I have gratefully accepted all of
them. Here hitch-hiking is safer, more common, and accepted as a legitimate form of transportation. Not everyone has a
car and so the Chilean hospitality comes out in such instances. My experiences with accepting rides have been positive
and I‟ve even made some new friends in the process.
Ultimately I‟ve had my share of frustrations with relying on public transportation but at the end of the day, it‟s only en-
riched my Chilean experience and helped me gain a new perspective of the meaning of quality time.
SSLC PAGE 14
15. Waking Up On Mars La Campana PO
By Heather Tang
By Corrie Littlepage
In the majority of the world, chances are that most of the The most important and profound places to experience in
people that you will meet have never seen a place com- Chile are off the road. It is an understatement to call
pletely devoid of any visible signs of life; a place so barren Chile a long country. Chile is 4300 km of breathtaking
that it is reminiscent of the photographs taken by the rov- coastline to the west and then standing proud in the east
ers that reach inhospitable planets. I was no different are the awe-inspiring Andes Mountains. You cannot ex-
from them and my placement region of Valparaiso of- perience Chile without experiencing this beauty. You have
fered all kinds of plush surroundings. When I boarded to get off the road to truly appreciate and understand
the bus at eleven o‟clock at night in Viña del Mar bound Chile.
for the desert seaside hamlet of Taltal, it was still fall in
central Chile. The air was cool but full of moisture, and My first off road experience in the 5th region of Chile was
now and then a little rain would feed the thirsty vegeta- to Parque la Campana. Parque La Campana is just a hop,
tion on the green hillsides. Riding that semi-cama Con- skip and a jump (aka a micro, colectivo, and a walk) from
dor Bus fifteen hours north of my Chilean home, I was my home in La Calera.
about to enter a world completely different from any I We set out for the summit of Cerro La Campana, not
have seen before. knowing if it was accessible because of the earthquake. It
was a five-hour journey to the summit, but we made
it! Getting to the summit was one of those „take your
breath away‟ moments, though that expression hardly
does it justice. At 1890 meters, from the summit of La
Campana there is a 360-degree view of the precordillera,
Aconcagua (the highest peak in the western and southern
hemispheres) and the Pacific Ocean. I do not think I have
ever been somewhere with such an astonishing view. It is
hard to believe that I could look one way and see the
ocean and then turn around and see Aconcagua, sitting
on the border of Argentina.
When the bus attendant whipped back the curtains at
7AM the next day, the light forced my eyes open and sud-
denly I was seeing a vastness of terrain made solely of
sand, dirt, and rocks--not a tree or a bush, but maybe a
shriveled shrub once in awhile. As far as the eye could
see, there was nothing but miles and miles of open
land. Welcome to the Atacama Desert, the world‟s dri-
est. The locals say that if it rains here, dance in it, be-
cause it could be once in a lifetime.
Although I had never seen a place so bare, driving along
the never-ending stretch of road, passing small mining
settlements once in awhile, there was a power energizing On the top of La Campana I heard someone say (in Span-
the surrounding land and its inhabitants. The meeting of ish) while talking on their phone that they were on the
the reddish earth to the vibrant azure sky was marked by summit of La Campana, and then they added “po” to the
the uninterrupted horizon where the two stood side by end, just for emphasis; this made me laugh so hard.
side as longtime friends in a place where they only had Chileans throw in “po” wherever they would like. It is
each other. First impressions aside, the desert was actu- kind of a filler and really just something to make learning
ally full life. From the circling condors in the sky to the Spanish in Chile more entertaining. If I were to say in
insects crawling over the low-lying shrubs to the pure Chilean Spanish “ I am on the summit of La Campana” I
energy of the blazing sun, the Atacama was as intriguing would I have said “Estoy PO en PO la cumbre PO de la
as it was invigorating and truly a place unlike any other. Campana PO.” That is how much emphasis is needed to
properly express being on top of La Campana.
The journey left me physically tired, but spiritually reju-
venated. It was such a beautiful reminder to me of God's
creativity and presence. It was the first of many unforget-
table journeys in this long country.
SSLC PAGE 15
16. Pan y Palta
Musings About Chilean Cuisine
Adventures with the Spanish Menu
By Chris Doherty
With a temperate climate in the central region, Chile's year-round selection of fresh fruits and vegetables offers
many opportunities for fresh, healthy cooking. And with avocado typically around fifty US cents per pound, one of
the signature Chilean foods is a "completo," a cheap hot dog dwarfed by mounds of avocado and mayonnaise. It's
a little mysterious: in fact, many of the typical Chilean foods form an intricate list of sandwich or sausage combi-
nations. A churrasco is thin-sliced beef on a wide round roll; to get something "a lo pobre" is to have it on a bed of
French fries, with a fried egg or two.
The other day a couple of us went to Fuente Bávara, in Viña del Mar. (The sign says, in Spanish, "German Tradi-
tion," which is a little odd since there are precisely zero German items on the menu: from the food to the beer, it's
100% Chilean, unless you count the Heineken, which I don't.) I ordered an "As a lo pobre, con churrasco." I had
no idea what that was. I suspected it involved churrasco meat and being "a lo pobre" there should be a fried egg
and french fries involved somewhere. Even though I speak Spanish, I usually find it easier to just order something
rather than trying to use Spanish to understand what I'm getting. I eat some suboptimal meals, but I do maintain
my sense of adventure.
This particular shot in the dark redeemed the rest of them. The completely Chilean German-Tradition restaurant
brought me a long roll, with churrasco (thin-sliced beef), a fried egg, gobs of melted cheese, and some stunning,
beautiful, perfect, brown caramelized onions.
I'm still not exactly sure what an "As" is but clearly that's not as important as you might think. Next time you're
faced with an incomprehensible menu, just pick something. It'll be fun!
Empty Fridge, Delicious Meals
By Carol Eckman
Completo The Chilean supermarket: nowhere will you find a more abun-
dant display of salt. Bags of it: enough to take care of the drive-
way if it snows. You can afford as much as you'd like, but it's
SALT. Cooking oil dominates an aisle. Sugar and sugar substi-
tutes, saltines, rice, and mounds of UHT milk...I am particu-
larly fond of the mayo in a bag. Ditto manjar. Imagine the
havoc you could wreak on Halloween.
As if in counterpoint, the Chilean refrigerator is nearly empty,
however, not to give the impression that tasty meals are not
served with regularity. The cook must be especially skillful in
“A Lo Pobre” putting together a meal. (Or should I say "the meal"? Because
once a day it is for independent production of the culinary vari-
ety. ) But back to the fridge. It is modestly filled and then emp-
tied to the point that one might get a little nervous. A woman
in her 90‟s told me that Chileans formerly ate 4 meals a day:
onces and cena. Their frugality is a direct result of their his-
tory.
By the way, don't expect cheese unless you are living with a big
spender.
Ensalada Chilena
SSLC PAGE 16
17. The Chilean Asado - Teaching and Learning...with Food
Undeniably the Most Fun Party By: Lauren Phillips
You Will Attend As with every aspect of life as a volunteer in Chile, eating
By Brandy Hearn is just another learning experience. Whether you‟re be-
ing served or doing the serving, confusion and adapta-
My favorite beyond favorite thing in tion are the name of the game.
Chile besides the obvious are the asados. A
typical Chilean asado is more than just a cook-
For instance, I learned that improvisation is the key
out, it's an invitation to overindulge in more
when you are looking to bake chocolate chip cookies as
food and drink than is generally socially accept-
there are no chocolate chips and no brown sugar in
able. Therefore, if you ever get the wonderful
Chile. I learned that it‟s perfectly acceptable to say you
chance to attend one of these fabulous events,
don‟t like something (politely) and you can be sure to
this is what you should expect.
never see it on your plate again. I learned that there‟s no
An asado starts with some serious,
such thing as “just a little mayonnaise”- if given the op-
sometimes all day, preparation and the end re-
portunity to put mayonnaise on (any) food, Chileans will
sult smells and tastes as colorful and delicious
smother their food (and yours) in this condiment. I‟ve
as it looks. Hors d'oeuvres typically consist of
learned that in Chile, hotdogs have been liberated from
fresh bread, pebre, a seasoning of tomatoes
the bun that has imprisoned them for so long in the U.S.-
with chopped onion, chili, coriander, and
they seem to find their way into the most unexpected
chives, and bowls of chips with homemade gua-
dishes: spaghetti, empanadas, with rice, etc.
camole aside. You will also sometimes find
plates filled with a variety of cheeses, fresh sa-
lami, and olives. To say the least you could fill Yet with all this learning, I‟ve still managed to teach a
up on hors d'oeuvres alone, however, you few things (that‟s why I‟m here!). As previously men-
wouldn't want to as the main attraction is the tioned, I‟ve shared the greatness that is a chocolate chip
meat on the grill. Therefore, pace yourself, cookie (sans brown sugar). I‟ve also shared the greatest
have a glass of wine, or two, maybe even three, gift on earth, peanut butter, and its many uses.
and wait for the host to finish cooking the
choripan. My time thus far in Chile has taught me that improvisa-
tion and a willingness to try new things is the key. I wish
I could say that all Chileans eat delicious food all day
long, but the fact remains that Chile‟s no Italy- I doubt
anyone‟s ever come here for the food. Fortunately we
didn‟t come here to dine on fine cuisine, we came here to
teach and to learn, and as with every experience in Chile,
that is exactly what we are doing.
Choripan is to die for, period space
space. From the looks of it you would think it's
just your ordinary sausage in a roll but NO, it's
so much more than that, I have heard one say
that it is like taking a bite out of heaven, or hell
for that matter. Once all the choripan is gone,
and believe me, it will be in a matter of minutes,
start filling your plate with Chilean Ensalada
which consists of peeled tomatoes and white
onions dowsed with an oil and vinegar based
dressing, rice, chopped cabbage, lettuce, corn,
and carrots, and head on over to the grill to get
a "healthy" serving of chicken and steak.
MmmmMmmmMmmm... With your plate filled
to the brim don't forget to serve yourself an-
other glass of Chilean Carmenere, a red wine
that is only made in Chile or a Pisco Sour, a
white brandy made from muscat grapes. Sit
down, breathe, and gorge. Once finished, dance
the night away...if you can still move.
Choripan and pebre
SSLC PAGE 17
18. El Terremoto
This issue of the SSLC is dedicated to all those affected by the
earthquake that occurred on February 27, 2010.
Did you know?...
On February 27th, Chile was struck by an 8.8 mega earthquake off the coast of the Maule region that has been
followed by over 200 aftershocks (and counting...).
The earthquake lasted 90 seconds.
The quake that struck Chile on February 27th, 2010 was the 5th largest earthquake in recorded history.
The Chile earthquake was 500 times more powerful than the January 2010 Haiti earthquake.
In response to the Chile quake, tsunami warnings were issued in 53 countries
30 minutes after the first shock, consecutive tsunami waves measuring up to 15 feet hit coastal Chilean towns.
It moved the entire city of Concepción 3.04 metres (10 ft) to the west while Santiago, moved almost 24 centime-
tres (10 in) west, and even Buenos Aires, shifted 3.9 centimetres (1.5 in).
Roughly 2 million Chileans have been seriously affected by the quake, which is 12% of the population, or 1 in 8
Chileans.
Current estimates are that the recovery process could take up to 7 years
Oxfam America (an important international relief organization) was only able to raise $3,499 for relief ef-
forts in Chile while it raised $2.9 million in the same time period for Haiti.
*http://www.emol.com/noticias/nacional/detalle/detallenoticias.asp?idnoticia=400694
SSLC PAGE 18
19. Photos Contributed By:
Lauren Phillips Brandy Hearn Susan Vance
Heather Tang Sharon Welch Corrie Littlepage
Leighann Loesch
Short Stories, Long Country
WorldTeach Chile
chilesslc@gmail.com
Next Issue: November 2010
www.worldteach.org
SSLC PAGE 19