Final. Queer fashion, signalling, visiblity and British Vogue.

1. London Picture Archive No.314573
1533
Buggery Act is first passed into law, making anal
intercourse between men punishable by death.
1700s
Molly houses, where men could cross-dress, engage in
homosexual acts and ritual parody of contemporary
society grew at this time
They came particularly under scrutiny from the 1720s.
With Mother Clap's Molly house being raided in 1726,
the 'Mollie's' being tried for sodomy, and Margaret Clap
for keeping a disorderly house.
1889
Cleveland street scandal- a male brothel which was
found to have possibly had prominent aristocratic
clients was found by police.
1920s
Many lesbian and queer women began to adopt
trousers, although they would not be widely acceptable
or universally legal, until the 1970s.
Monacles also became popular in this decade,
particularly among upper class Lesbian circles, and
while it would fall out of fashion in the coming decade,
it would remain in use among particular circles of
women, but it was largely an indicator of class, rather
than sexuality.

2. 1922
Dorothy Todd, a gay woman, becomes the second editor of British
Vogue.
She lived with her assistant Madge Garland in Chelsea. While she was
only editor for 4 years, she broadened the magazine from pure fashion,
to a more progressive view of culture, subculture, art and fashion. She
was fired for this and blackmailed by the publisher for her ‘private
sins’. She would reflect on this in 1982, about then publisher’s Condé
Nast willingness to avoid fulfilling a contract through homophobic
threats.
1936
The Gateways club, which
was the longest running
Lesbian nightclub in the
world, opened.
1960s
The ‘Peacock Revolution’. Men's fashion was revolutionised in the 50s
and 60s, becoming flamboyant, colourful and sexualised. It went
against the strict standards of masculinity set in previous decades, and
one of the most influential fashion designers was John Stephen, a gay
man.
Copyright © The John
Stephen Estate
(1957-1975).
Photography Madge Garland Archive,
Royal College of Art Special Collections
“The Small Neat Coiffure Is the Favourite of the Mode.”
Photograph by Manuel/British Vogue (late December 1923)

3. 1962
‘How to spot a possible Homo’ Article is
published in the Sunday Mirror. Including possible
warning signs such as
- ‘Those who dye their hair’
- ‘They wear silk suits’
- ‘They wear hairy sports jackets’
- ‘The fussy-wearer’
1967
Male homosexuality is partially decriminalised.
Furthermore, by this year, John Stephen and his
boyfriend had a chain of 15 shops on Carnaby
street. Claiming in the same year that ‘Carnaby is
[his] creation’. His clothing informed what was
fashionable and his excellent marketing as “The
Million pound Mod” ensured that his styles
would not only thrust queer fashion to
prominence but would be influential for decades.
1969
Stonewall riots in the US
have had lasting impact
and recognition
worldwide.
1970s
‘Anti-fashion’ movement. Popularity particularly
among queer women for counter-cultural
clothing, such as bowties, suit jackets, and
baggier silhouettes, which leaned more towards
androgyny.
Additionally, this environment allowed enduring
symbols, such as the Carabiner clip, key rings, and
even more esoteric symbols, such as the labrys to
emerge.
1972
First London Gay pride rally was held, on the
nearest Saturday to the anniversary of stonewall.
Gay news is also founded.
It is also believed that this is when the ‘Hanky
code’ was officially launched.
Labrys ear-ring. Museum of
London 1999.
Gay Semiotics,
1977. © Hal
Fischer

4. 1980s
Protest badges were largely produced and
circulated in this decade and the previous, being
and unmissable, and often dangerous symbol of
queer visibility, and liberation.
A single piercing in the right ear increasingly
becomes a popular way for gay men to signal to
each other without outing themselves.
1985
The Gateways club closes, after having lost its late
license and losing popularity on weekdays.
1987
Homosexuality no longer classed as a mental
disorder on the DSM–III–R. However, gender
identity disorder was also introduced in this edition.
2005
A way for asexual people to queer signal, the Ace
ring was proposed in 2005 and has largely caught
on since.
Gay pride lapel badges, 1978-88. Museum of London

5. 2010
Hannah Dee criticised London pride in her
book ‘The Red in the Rainbow: Sexuality,
Socialism and LGBT Liberation’ for having
become a corporate sponsored event.
2013
'Gender identity disorder' was declassified
as a mental health disorder, being
replaced by 'Gender Dysphoria'
2017
Ashish Gupta, a London based
fashion designer with a close
connection to Vogue, unveils a
politically charged runway show
celebrating women, queer
identities and fashion.
He does this while simultaneously
criticising the then American
President, Donald Trump.
2019
First London trans+ pride parade formed,
partially in response to the anti-trans
demonstration in the Pride march of 2018.
2022
Harry Styles wears a dress on
the cover of British Vogue,
drawing praise and backlash.
2023
According to the office of national statistics (ONS) Anti-
trans hate crimes have risen by 186% in the past 5 years.
In a report released by the Home office for the year
ending March 2023, it states that reported crime had
risen by 11%, hitting an all-time high, and stated that this
rise may be in part inflammatory comments by politicians
and the media over the last year.
ONS also reported that Hate crime based on sexual
orientation has also risen by 112% in the past 5 years.