“Asia’s Contributions to World Cuisine”
Sidney W. Mintz (2009)
1
Global cuisine/Culinary culture
Today: Sidney W. Mintz, “Asia’s Contributions to World Cuisine,” japanfocus.org (2009)
Thurs. Feb. 8: Matthew Allen & Rumi Sakamoto, “Sushi reverses course: consuming American sushi in Tokyo.” japanfocus.org (2011)
Wed. Feb. 14 Recitation
Upload response paper to Sakai Assignments
Deadline: Tues. Feb. 13, 10:oo PM
Review:
Steger Chap. 2 “Globalization in history: is globalization a new phenomenon?”
Stages of globalization defined by humanity crossing through technological “thresholds”
Stages of globalization
What technological breakthrough does Steger identify that allowed humanity to cross into each new stage of globalization?
1. Prehistoric (10,000-3500 BCE)
2. Premodern: Age of Empires (3500 BCE-1500 CE)
3. Early modern (1500-1750)
4. Modern (1750-1980s)
5. Contemporary (from 1980s)
Globalization dynamic (Steger)
Prehistoric: divergence
Globalization dynamic
Prehistoric: multidimensional divergence
Steger: Pre-Modern Era (Age of Empires) 3500 BCE-1500 CE
The Chinese Empire was the most enduring and technologically advanced of the world’s empires
The most extensive trade route in the world was the “Silk Road,” which Steger calls a land route.
What is the Silk Road?
A combined overland & overseas trade route that crossed the Eurasian landmass and linked its ports
Shosoin 正倉院 Imperial storage house 701-760, Nara, Japan
Close-up of log structure
Shosoin History: “time capsule”
Holds items donated by Empress Komyo between 756-760 in memory of her late husband, Emperor Shomu.
Located on the grounds of Todai-ji Temple in Nara, where the Daibutsu (Great Buddha) is located.
Some items originated in India, Greece, Rome, Egypt, Persia, Korea, and Tang Dynasty China; others were manufactured domestically.
Shosoin crystal bowl (Roman) 8th c.
Atlantic Ocean
Pacific Ocean
Steger: Early modern period (1500-1750)
“During these two centuries, Europe and its social practices emerged as the primary catalyst for globalization after a long period of Asian predominance.” (p. 28)
3. Early Modern (1500-1750)
European powers could not spread overland into Africa or Asia due to Muslim powers that blocked their way.
Instead, they turned westward by sea to find a new trade route to India.
Objective: Trade in spices
During these 250 years, Europe was the leader in globalization.
Why wasn’t China the leader of globalization?
Steger, p. 26: “By the 15th century CE [1405-1433], enormous Chinese fleets consisting of hundreds of 400-foot-long ocean-going ships were crossing the Indian Ocean and establishing short-lived trade outposts on the east coast of Africa.
“However, a few decades later, the rulers of the Chinese Empire’s series of fateful political decisions to turn .
Asia’s Contributions to World Cuisine”Sidney W. Mintz (2009).docx
1. “Asia’s Contributions to World Cuisine”
Sidney W. Mintz (2009)
1
Global cuisine/Culinary culture
Today: Sidney W. Mintz, “Asia’s Contributions to World
Cuisine,” japanfocus.org (2009)
Thurs. Feb. 8: Matthew Allen & Rumi Sakamoto, “Sushi
reverses course: consuming American sushi in Tokyo.”
japanfocus.org (2011)
Wed. Feb. 14 Recitation
Upload response paper to Sakai Assignments
Deadline: Tues. Feb. 13, 10:oo PM
2. Review:
Steger Chap. 2 “Globalization in history: is globalization a new
phenomenon?”
Stages of globalization defined by humanity crossing through
technological “thresholds”
Stages of globalization
What technological breakthrough does Steger identify that
allowed humanity to cross into each new stage of globalization?
1. Prehistoric (10,000-3500 BCE)
2. Premodern: Age of Empires (3500 BCE-1500 CE)
3. Early modern (1500-1750)
4. Modern (1750-1980s)
5. Contemporary (from 1980s)
Globalization dynamic (Steger)
Prehistoric: divergence
4. Steger: Pre-Modern Era (Age of Empires) 3500 BCE-1500 CE
The Chinese Empire was the most enduring and technologically
advanced of the world’s empires
The most extensive trade route in the world was the “Silk
Road,” which Steger calls a land route.
What is the Silk Road?
A combined overland & overseas trade route that crossed the
Eurasian landmass and linked its ports
Shosoin 正倉院 Imperial storage house 701-760, Nara, Japan
5. Close-up of log structure
Shosoin History: “time capsule”
Holds items donated by Empress Komyo between 756-760 in
memory of her late husband, Emperor Shomu.
Located on the grounds of Todai-ji Temple in Nara, where the
Daibutsu (Great Buddha) is located.
Some items originated in India, Greece, Rome, Egypt, Persia,
Korea, and Tang Dynasty China; others were manufactured
domestically.
Shosoin crystal bowl (Roman) 8th c.
7. Pacific Ocean
Steger: Early modern period (1500-1750)
“During these two centuries, Europe and its social practices
emerged as the primary catalyst for globalization after a long
period of Asian predominance.” (p. 28)
3. Early Modern (1500-1750)
European powers could not spread overland into Africa or Asia
due to Muslim powers that blocked their way.
Instead, they turned westward by sea to find a new trade route
to India.
Objective: Trade in spices
During these 250 years, Europe was the leader in
globalization.
8. Why wasn’t China the leader of globalization?
Steger, p. 26: “By the 15th century CE [1405-1433], enormous
Chinese fleets consisting of hundreds of 400-foot-long ocean-
going ships were crossing the Indian Ocean and establishing
short-lived trade outposts on the east coast of Africa.
“However, a few decades later, the rulers of the Chinese
Empire’s series of fateful political decisions to turn inward
halted overseas navigation and mandated a retreat from further
technological development.
Map of Zheng He’s Seven Voyages
Zheng He's fleets visited Arabia, East Africa, India, Indonesia
and Thailand. The extend of Zheng He’s voyages are hard to
determine but it is reasonable to assume that with China’s
invention of the compass, it allowed him to reach parts of
Africa, Australia and many areas around the Pacific.
Image of Giraffe Being Lead Into the Ming Zoo
9. Cont.
“Thus, the rulers cut short their empire’s incipient industrial
revolution, a development that allowed much smaller European
states to emerge as the primary historical agents behind the
intensification of globalization.”
Alternate explanation
Starting in the early 15th century, Ming dynasty China
experienced increasing pressure from Mongolian tribes to the
north.
In recognition of this threat, in 1421 the Ming Emperor Yongle
moved the capital north from Nanjing to present-day Beijing.
From the new capital he sent military expeditions to defend the
northern borders.
The expenditures necessary for these land campaigns directly
competed with the funds necessary to continue naval
expeditions.
Treasure Ship (bao-chuan)
10. The Ming treasure ship are the type of ships that Zheng He
voyaged in. His fleet included probably an overall of 62
treasure ships. The measurements noted above for the Ming
Treasure ship liken its size to a football field. The treasure
ships supposedly can carry as much as 1,500 tons.
West: Zheng He’s 1405-1434
Zheng He's fleets visited Arabia, East Africa, India, Indonesia
and Thailand. The extend of Zheng He’s voyages are hard to
determine but it is reasonable to assume that with China’s
invention of the compass, it allowed him to reach parts of
Africa, Australia and many areas around the Pacific.
East: Vasco Da Gama’s route 1497-99
Electronic devices OFF
11. Sidney W. Mintz
“Asia’s Contributions to World Cuisine,” japanfocus.org
(2009)
Mintz’s thesis (echoes Steger’s)
World cuisine, or global cuisine, is a dynamic process (not a
stable system)
The process is continuous, ongoing, and surprisingly ancient
World food history (1)
Gradual and uneven spread of:
plants and animals
foods and food ingredients
cooking methods and traditions
12. World food history (2)
Interpenetration of local food systems now takes place with
great speed on a world-wide scale, but it has its roots in the past
World food history (3)
“The current vogue for global analysis ought not to blind us to
the ancient history of this phenomenon.”
Wheat-based culinary culture
Stretches from northern China to southern Europe
Developed several millennia ago
Steger, premodern period 3500 BCE-1500 CE (p. 24)
“Thanks to the auspicious east-west orientation of Eurasia’s
major continental axis—a geographical feature that had already
13. facilitated the rapid spread of crops and animals suitable for
food production along the same latitudes—the diffusion of these
new technologies to distant parts of the continent occurred in
only a few centuries.”
Eurasian landmass from space
(Anderson: The Food of China)
Asia and Europe are not separate entities, but a patchwork of
neighboring peoples
Through migration or invasion
they took and gave
what they grew & what they cooked
over long centuries
Innovation in food culture
“Whether we have in mind an ingredient, a plant, an animal, a
cooking method, or some other concrete culinary borrowing,
14. when such things spread and they come into the hands of
receiving farmers, processors, or cooks, they have been
detached from some particular cultural system; and when they
are taken up, they become integrated into another, usually
different one.”
Is global cuisine becoming the same?
No: There is a continuous, creative culinary process that always
makes cooking new and different and defies standardization
Is global cuisine becoming the same?
Possibly: Standardization of food habits may come from large-
scale economic changes that move masses of people around,
shift the rural-urban balance, or create big migrant labor forces
The Columbian Exchange
Completely remade the world diet
Sweet potato crossed the Pacific westward from the new world
in the 16th c., probably entering China via the Philippines
15. Corn & peanuts soon followed
The Columbian Exchange (1492)
European market for spices
Mintz: Trade in Eastern spices to Europe was cut by rise of
Ottoman Empire in 1453
Cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, turmeric, black pepper,
ginger
(Columbus’s voyages were inspired by a desire to find a sea
route to obtain these Eastern spices)
Columbian Exchange: Steger
World diet was transformed during Steger’s Early Modern
Period (1500-1750), when trans-oceanic travel began
Led to population explosion in Modern Period (1750-1980)
From 760 million in 1750, to 3.7 billion in 1970 (now over 7.4
billion).
16. Steger: Premodern trade networks
The negative side of trade networks was the spread of infectious
disease.
The bubonic plague killed 1/3 of the population of China,
Middle East, and Europe in mid-14th c.
17. Steger: Modern immigration
Waves of immigration transformed societies and social
dynamics.
Mintz: bringing their foods, flavors, cooking methods
Small group discussion
In the history of globalization, do you think that the crossing of
the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans around 1500 is most consistent
with:
the early dynamic of divergence,
the contemporary dynamic of convergence
a turning point in the dynamic from divergence to convergence?
Globalization dynamic (Steger)
Prehistoric: divergence
20. Mintz: Complexity of culinary exchange (1)
Interchanges of culinary culture in the premodern era (corn,
potatoes) were being superimposed upon those of the remote
past (wheat, spices)
Mintz: Present superimposed on past
Dynamic of Convergence (Steger)
24. Mintz: Complexity of culinary exchange (2)
Speed of diffusion of culinary culture may be fast or it may be
slow
Mintz: Asia’s gifts to the West
Tea
Rice
Soy
25. Rice: one of Asia’s greatest gifts
Introduced to Europe after 711 when the Moors invaded Spain
Rice has displaced other grains in many societies as main
source of starch (carbohydrate)
Tea
Introduced at English court in the 17th c. by Queen Catherine of
the Portuguese noble house of Braganza, in the reign of King
Charles II
One of the first true commodities, along with sugar
Soy
Soybeans have made an enormous contribution to Western diet,
in form of cooking oil and protein-rich animal food, very
different from their use in Asia
chickens, pigs, cows are fed soybeans
their meat is then fried in soybean oil
humans benefit from soy indirectly
26. World soy production 2008
Drawbacks of Western use of soy
Enables people to eat less healthily at the top of the food chain,
rather than more healthily near the bottom
Brazil and Argentina are major exporters of soy to China, where
it is used as animal feed (following Western model of soy use)
Negative results:
Increase in animal protein consumption in Asia
Destruction of rainforests in the Amazon
Globalization in history: is globalization a new phenomenon?
Manfred B. Steger, Globalization, chap. 2
Chap. 2 “Globalization in history: is globalization a new
phenomenon?”
27. Our focus: Understanding globalization through the foods we
eat
World cuisine/Culinary culture
Tues. 2/6 Sidney W. Mintz, “Asia’s Contributions to World
Cuisine,” japanfocus.org (2009)
Thurs. 2/8 Matthew Allen & Rumi Sakamoto, “Sushi reverses
course: consuming American sushi in Tokyo.” japanfocus.org
(2011)
Chap. 2 Recitation on Wed. Feb. 14
Response paper due Tues. Feb. 13 at 10:00 pm
Chap. 1 Recitation: “Globalization: a contested concept”
Steger’s theory of globalization: Global-local nexus
Beijing Olympics 2008 in East Asian context
North Korean Mass Games and Third Worldism in Guyana
1980-92
28. Global-local nexus
Global
International
"West"
Local
National
“Rest”
Tools for analysis
Globalization is defined by the links between dichotomies
Binaries (global/local) are not exclusive but work together
Global-Local Nexus is a Horizontal relationship, not Vertical
Globalization is multi-dimensional
“Parable of the elephant”
29. Globality (social condition) is uneven
Global imaginary (consciousness of ourselves and others) is
product of our existence & participation on the global stage
Electronic devices OFF
Chap 2 Globalization in history
Is globalization a new phenomenon?
“Where do we begin?”
Post-1989? Some scholars limit globalization to post-1989 to
focus on the recent quantum leap in the pace of change.
19th century? Other scholars look to the Industrial Revolution
and other developments in the 19th c.
16th century? Others look to 16th c. and the emergence of
modernity, when trade routes first connected Eurasia, Africa,
and America.
Prehistory? Finally, a few say these processes have been
30. unfolding for thousands of years.
“Parable of the elephant”: each perspective contains
important insights.
Globalization unfolds over time
There are deep, historical roots for the current increase
in economic & social interdependence and rise in the global
imaginary.
New technologies stand upon earlier innovations from
earlier centuries.
Globalization unfolds over time
The dynamic (or direction) of globalization processes
changes over time
31. Clickers ON
Question
What term does Steger use to describe the “dynamic” (or
direction) of globalization in the pre-historic period?
Divergence
Convergence
Homogenous
Civilized
Steger
“Perhaps the best way to characterize the dynamic of this
earliest phase of globalization would be to call it ‘the great
divergence’—people and social connections stemming from a
single origin but moving and diversifying greatly over time and
space.” (p. 24)
32. Question
What term does Steger use to describe the “dynamic” (or
direction) of globalization in the contemporary period?
Divergence
Convergence
Homogenous
Civilized
Steger
“The best way of characterizing this latest globalization wave
would be to call it ‘the great convergence’—different and
widely spaced people and social connections coming together
more rapidly than ever before.”
(p. 36)
Globalization dynamic:
Prehistoric period: divergence
33. Out of Africa 6-8 million years ago
Globalization dynamic
Contemporary period: convergence
“Is globalization a new phenomenon?”
34. Steger’s answer:
“[In the following chapters], we will limit the application of the
term ‘globalization’ to the contemporary period while keeping
in mind that the dynamic driving these processes actually
started thousands of years ago.”
Steger’s thesis
Humanity’s progress toward globality is marked by crossing
through important technological thresholds
Personal computers, internet, cell phones, digital cameras, high-
definition TV, satellites, jets, space travel, supertankers
What is a threshold?
Threshold (from carpenter’s handbook)
Tamara D. Kontrimas watercolor “Sacred Threshold”
35. Technological thresholds
Steger identifies 5 separate periods when humanity crossed
certain distinct technological thresholds.
Each period is distinguished by accelerations in social
exchanges and expansion in geographic scope.
Chronology of globalization
Steger claims that his chronology is not linear:
“Full of unanticipated surprises, violent twists, sudden
punctuations, and dramatic reversals….” (p. 21)
Chronology of globalization
Steger identifies five periods in the history of globalization:
1. Prehistoric (10,000-3500 BCE)
2. Premodern: Age of Empires (3500 BCE-1500 CE)
3. Early modern (1500-1750)
4. Modern (1750-1980s)
5. Contemporary (from 1980s)
36. 3. Early Modern (1500-1750)
European powers were able to expand outward by sea for
several inter-related reasons:
New technologies:
advanced navigation techniques
Political changes:
Reduced power of Roman Catholic Church due to Protestant
Reformation
3. Early Modern (1500-1750)
New technologies & political changes led to the rise of the
merchant class
Origin of modern capitalist economies
4. Modern (1750-1980)
The Industrial Revolution was a product of new
technologies
Carbon-based energy sources fueled manufacturing and trade.
coal, petroleum (oil)
37. electricity
Positive and negative aspects
4. Critique of European led Modernity
Europe saw itself as leading the world to civilization and
enlightenment, but it often exploited other countries and treated
them unfairly.
Global interconnections existed primarily to enrich Western
capitalist enterprises.
[In East Asia, strategic Chinese ports were divided among
European powers]
[Japan took over from European powers and expanded into
Korea, Northeast China (Manchukuo), Southeast Asia, and the
South Pacific.]
4. Modern population growth
Waves of immigration transformed societies and social
dynamics.
Modern period also witnessed a huge population explosion.
From 760 million in 1750, to 3.7 billion in 1970 (now over 7.4
billion).
38. 4. Modern growth in trade
By World War I (1914), trade equaled 12% of GNP for
industrialized countries.
This level not reached again until 1970.
Clickers ON
Question
Why did global trade shrink as percentage of GNP between
1914-1970?
Fewer technological innovations in this period.
Emergence of economic nationalism in this period.
Reduced level of consumerism in this period.
Economic nationalism
Economic nationalism led to two devastating World Wars.
39. A new world order emerged from the ashes of World War II,
dominated by USSR and USA, and characterized by division
into their separate spheres of influence in the Cold War.
5. Contemporary (from 1980s)
Collapse of USSR in 1991 accelerated emergence of a single
global market and the processes driving globalization.
The contemporary period is the focus of Steger’s chapters 3-7
1. Prehistoric (10,000-3500 BCE)
Around 12,000 years ago, the human species achieved true
global dispersal over the whole earth when hunter/gatherers
finally reached the southern tip of South America. [map on p.
23]
10,000 BCE complete coverage
40. For most of human history up to 12,000 years ago:
Interaction among bands of hunters/gatherers was limited and
unsystematic.
1. Prehistoric (10,000-3500 BCE)
Around 12,000 years ago, some hunter/gatherers began to
cultivate crops and domesticate animals.
Farming and herding represent new technologies
Specialization in farmer/herder communities
Craftsmen: iron tools, jewelry, canals, pottery, baskets,
buildings.
Bureaucrats: kept accounts of supplies, extended control of
rulers.
Soldiers: explored and acquired new land, extended control of
rulers.
41. Clickers ON
Question
What allowed specialized occupations to develop in
farmer/herder communities?
Fire and iron tools
Writing and the wheel
Food surpluses
Agriculture & animal husbandry
Due to food surpluses, farmer/herder communities
could support specialized groups of people not directly involved
in farming.
42. 2. Premodern 3500BCE-1500CE
By 3500 BCE, Steger claims that two new technologies
allowed farmer/herder communities to reach a new level in the
process of globalization and enter the Premodern Era.
Question
Identify the two new technologies that allowed farmer/herder
communities to reach the next level in the process of
globalization and enter the Premodern Era:
Fire and iron tools
Writing and the wheel
Dams and irrigation canals
2. Premodern 3500BCE-1500CE
Two new technologies allowed farmer/herder
communities to reach a new level in the process of globalization
and enter the Premodern Era:
Writing in Mesopotamia, Egypt, and central China (between
3500-2000 BCE ).
The Wheel in South-West Asia (3000 BCE).
43. Invention of writing
Writing spread rapidly throughout the Eurasian continent within
a few centuries and spurred globalization processes
Spread ideas & allowed long-distance communication
Made it possible to coordinate complex social activities
Allowed administration of larger states
Invention of the wheel
Use of wheeled carts or vehicles spread rapidly throughout
Eurasian continent within a few centuries and spurred
globalization processes
Animal-drawn carts helped speed transport
Permanent roads and infrastructure connected distant places
Faster transportation of people & goods increased regional
commerce and interaction
Invention of the wheel
Steger: Wheel invented “around 3000 BCE in Southwest Asia”
Wikipedia: “Wheel invented in the mid-4th millennium BCE,
44. near-simultaneously in Mesopotamia (Sumeria), Indus Valley,
the Northern Caucasus, and Central Europe”
The question of the origins of wheeled vehicles remains
unresolved
Ancient scripts 3500-2000 BCE
Mesopotamia
Egypt
China
Ancient scripts
Mesopotamia
Cuneiform script
Egypt
Heiroglyphic script
China
漢字 Hanzi script (Chinese characters)
45. Cuneiform script (extinct)
Hieroglyphic script (survives in altered form as alphabet)
Hanzi (the only surviving ancient script)
2. Premodern 3500BCE-1500CE
Due in large part to writing and the wheel, the premodern
period was the Age of Empires.
Egyptian; Persian; Macedonian; Aztecs and Incas (America),
Roman; Indian; Byzantine; Islamic Caliphates; Holy Roman
Empire; Ghana, Mali, Songhay (Africa); Ottoman
46. 2. Premodern 3500BCE-1500CE
All of these empires were characterized by long-distance
communication and exchange of:
Culture
[Culinary culture: foods, cooking methods]
Technology
Goods
Disease
Clickers ON
Question
Of all the world’s great pre-modern empires, which empire does
Steger identify as the most enduring and technologically
advanced?
Egyptian
Roman
Ottoman
Byzantine
Chinese
47. China’s advanced technologies
Redesigned plowshares
Hydraulic engineering
Gunpowder
Tapping of natural gas
The compass
Mechanical clocks
Paper
Printing
Silk and metalworking
Question
In the mid-14th century the bubonic plague, or Black Death,
killed about what percentage of the population of China, the
Middle East, and Europe?
10-15%
30-35%
50-55%
90-95%
2. Premodern trade networks
48. The negative side of trade networks was the spread of infectious
disease.
The bubonic plague killed 1/3 of the population of China,
Middle East, and Europe in mid-14th c.
2. Premodern trade networks
The positive side of trade networks was that they led to
population growth, urban growth, and cultural and religious
encounters.
These encounters turned local religions into major world
religions: Judaism, Christianity, Islam, Hinduism, and
Buddhism.
2. Premodern trade networks
Premodern trade networks did not extend across the Atlantic &
Pacific Oceans.
Steger p. 28
49. Sushi Reverses Course: Consuming American Sushi
in Tokyo
Matthew Allen & Rumi Sakamoto (2011)
Global cuisine/Culinary culture
Tues. 2/6: Sidney W. Mintz, “Asia’s Contributions to World
Cuisine,” japanfocus.org (2009)
Today: Matthew Allen & Rumi Sakamoto, “Sushi reverses
course: consuming American sushi in Tokyo.” japanfocus.org
(2011)
Wed. Feb. 14 Recitation
Upload Chap. 2 response paper to Sakai Assignments
Deadline: Tues. Feb. 13, 10:oo PM
50. Clicker quizzes 1 pt.
Scoring is based on:
(1) participation
(2) correct answers
Globalization in history
Steger Chap. 2 “Globalization in history: is globalization a new
phenomenon?”
Sidney W. Mintz, “Asia’s Contributions to World Cuisine,”
japanfocus.org (2009)
Matthew Allen & Rumi Sakamoto, “Sushi reverses course:
consuming American sushi in Tokyo.” japanfocus.org (2011)
Globalization dynamic (Steger)
Prehistoric: divergence
55. Allen & Sakamoto
How do they theorize the contemporary globalization dynamic?
Electronic devices OFF
Sushi’s global reach
Estimated 20,000 sushi restaurants outside Japan
45,000 in Japan
57. “How to make sushi rolls”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKUSI8ElgRc (3:30)
“How to make sushi rolls”
Sushi is a “Japanese” dinner or appetizer (finger food)
“Classic” sushi rolls: California roll (with avocado); Philly role
(with cream cheese)
Or, invent your own combination
Sushi is as “creative” as it is delicious
Sushi as “glocal” product
http://www.foodiggity.com/tag/sushi/page/2/ Foodiggity
website
Bullet Train (conveyer-belt) sushi
Sushi Tacos
Star Wars soy sauce dishes
Kit-Kat sushi (=kitto-katsu “surely win”)
Culinary globalization
“Sushi reverses course: consuming American sushi in Tokyo”
58. “Reverse import” (gyaku yunyū) 逆輸入
American sushi in Tokyo
Rainbow Roll Sushi (Azabujūban)
Industrial chic décor, high prices, emphasis on fun
Genji Sushi New York (Roppongi Hills)
Signs in English, modest prices, emphasis on health (using
organic brown rice and etc.)
“Otherness” (Difference)
American sushi is exotic in Japan, and this inspires Japanese
young people to consume it.
“Fetish”
The marketability and desirability of American sushi in Japan is
primarily from its symbolic (fetishized) value.
59. Example: French pastry in Japan
Symbol of sophisticated taste
Eating French pastry shows the consumer’s appreciation of high
culinary standards
How to make Mille feuille (Napoleon)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnyEzaPbdAQ (4:07)
Mille feuille (Napoleon) Japan
60. Hybrid sushi “Napoleon”
Two kinds of culinary symbolic value (in Japan)
Fetishized “other” (French pastry)
Fetishized “self/other” (American sushi, hybrid sushi
Napoleon))
2 types of culinary hybridization
McDonalds-type
Non-McDonalds-type
“McDonaldization” (Ritzer 1993)
McDonaldization meets consumer’s needs or desires in forms
that are:
Efficient
Standardized
Tightly controlled
62. 2. Non-McDonalds-type
Production and consumption of American sushi in Tokyo
represents a different type of culinary hybridization:
Creative (not efficient)
Unpredictable (not standardized)
Playful (not tightly controlled)
2 kinds of culinary hybridization
Standardized, predictable (“McDonaldization”)
Creative, unpredictable (“Sushification,” from the verb: sushify
something)
Origin/destination binary collapses
When Philly sushi roll with cream cheese and California roll
with avocado is served as “Japanese” in the US, and
“American” in Japan, where is the origin, and where is the
destination?
Localities cannot be defined as simply the “origin” and/or
“destination” of a cultural artifact or practice.
Rather, localities contribute to the production of something that
63. supersedes both (or multiple) localities, with the product even
returning to the point of origin in refreshing new forms.
Globalization processes
Cultural globalization is not a uni-lineal (in one direction)
process of hybridization, often through localization, but
involves back-and-forth movement in cultural flows.
Globalization dynamic (Steger)
Contemporary: convergence (global-local nexus)
Globalization dynamic
Contemporary: multidimensional convergence
70. Jerome Charles White, Jr. (b. 1981)
Stage name: Jero (ジェロ)
African-American, Japanese grandmother
First black enka singer in Japan
Enka is often viewed by the music industry as commercially
obsolete, but Jero revitalized the genre by blending it with hip
hop
Many enka singers wear kimono in their performances; Jero’s
hip hop image (later, 1930s Harlem Rennaissance style) is one
of the many factors that contributes to his popularity
Jero “Umiyuki” (Ocean of Snow) 2008
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9c9oSlmOOs (4.26)
71. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUt18XwGyWg (2:47)
Origin/destination binary
Allen & Sakamoto: Localities and even people cannot be
defined as simply the “origin” and/or “destination” of a cultural
artifact or practice.
Rather, localities and people contribute to the production of
something that supersedes both (or multiple) localities, with the
product or person even returning to the point of origin in
refreshing new forms.
But in case of Jero, he seems to be locally isolated in his new
origin/destination, not globally connected.
Jero’s websites (Japanese market)
http://www.jero.jp/pc/ (official website in Japanese)
http://www.jvcmusic.co.jp/-/Artist/A021548.html Victor
Entertainment (not available in US)