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Nils-Krister Persson PhD
ass. Professor, docent
head of Smart Textiles
Technology Lab
Swedish School of
Textiles, University of
Borås,
nils-
Textile is unique among classes of man-
made materials
Textile and textile community creates
problem
Textile and textile processing provides
solutions
If textiles did not exist…
If textiles did not exist…
All humans wear textiles:
100% market
coverage
There has been no culture
ever not having textiles
Textiles is ever present
24-7 in human life:
20 min 1.39 % is
textileless
If textiles did not exist…
All humans wear textiles:
100% market
coverage
There has been no culture
ever not having textiles
Textiles is ever present
24-7 in human life:
20 min 1.39 % is
textileless
▪ Create 2D surfaces - 

cheap and with
precision
▪ Obtain lightweight
materials
▪ 2D continuity
▪ Cover large and small 

objects (mm)2 to (km)2
▪ Interfaces
▪ Drape
▪ Create flexible function
▪ Handle (1D) strength
▪ Create distance
▪ Create porous layers
▪ Create dense layer
▪ Express aesthetics
▪ Patterns - periodic
▪ Create high tensile
strength
I. Textile is the class of material closest to humans
Technosph
ere
• synthetic, artificial,
man-made realm
• System
• Functions
• Artefacts
Biospher
e
• the totality of
biological matter
• system
• functions
• biofacts
Characteristics of biofacts and “nature as
a manufacturer”
The way technology address these items
Biological materials are made from one or
both of two polymers: proteins
(poly(amino acids)) and polysaccharides
(polymers mostly of six-carbon sugars or
hexoses).
For plastic a very large number of polymers have
been synthesis showing a wide spectrum of
properties. Besides metal and metal alloys,
ceramics, glass are used
Fluxes of energy, info and materials Fluxes of energy, info and materials
Waterbased chemistry Water is used in industrial processes but also a
spectrum of hazardous solvents
Structures are often hierarchical Sometimes hierarchical
Self-assembly Top-down such as drilling, cutting, sawing -
subtractive manufacturing
Bottom up Top-down
Rounded surfaces Typical sharp, square, surfaces; triangles
Flexibility, pliability Rigid, hard
Soft matter (exceptions include teeth) Hard (metals, synthetic diamonds and alike)
Adaption (sometimes tropism, or on long
term : migration)
Artefacts are dead, just recently “smart”
materials have appeared
Recyclable and degradable Deposition, just recently recycling
Fibres i.e. prolonged structures common Rods, tubes, pillars, all stiff are common
Composites Composites
Porous, Often impermeable sides for protection
water beneficial in fluxes and processes water destructive
Periodicity on some scale Materials both and without periodicity exist
Comparison of biofacts from a material point of view and counterparts in techne, and,
in mid column textile matching indicated by X
Comparing the artificial, biofacts and textiles
Characteristics of biofacts and “nature as
a manufacturer”
The way technology address these items
Biological materials are made from one or
both of two polymers: proteins
(poly(amino acids)) and polysaccharides
(polymers mostly of six-carbon sugars or
hexoses).
X For plastic a very large number of polymers have
been synthesis showing a wide spectrum of
properties. Besides metal and metal alloys,
ceramics, glass are used
Fluxes of energy, info and materials Fluxes of energy, info and materials
Waterbased chemistry Water is used in industrial processes but also a
spectrum of hazardous solvents
Structures are often hierarchical X Sometimes hierarchical
Self-assembly X Top-down such as drilling, cutting, sawing -
subtractive manufacturing
Bottom up X Top-down
Rounded surfaces X Typical sharp, square, surfaces; triangles
Flexibility, pliability X Rigid, hard
Soft matter (exceptions include teeth) X Hard (metals, synthetic diamonds and alike)
Adaption (sometimes tropism, or on long
term : migration)
Artefacts are dead, just recently “smart”
materials have appeared
Recyclable and degradable X Deposition, just recently recycling
Fibres i.e. prolonged structures common Rods, tubes, pillars, all stiff are common
Composites X Composites
Porous, X Often impermeable sides for protection
water beneficial in fluxes and processes water destructive
Periodicity on some scale X Materials both and without periodicity exist
Comparison of biofacts from a material point of view and counterparts in techne, and,
in mid column textile matching indicated by X
Comparing the artificial, biofacts and textiles
II. Textile is the class of material closest to Nature
STATUS
IDENTITY
BELONGING
BEE SEEN
IDENTIFY
INCLU-
EXCLUSION
ESTETICS
CULTURE
ZEIT GEIST
SEX
GENDER
SEXUALITY
AGE
POWER
OCCUPATION
III. Textile is the class of material closest to EMOTIONS
Textile is unique among classes of man-
made materials
I. Textile is the class of material closest to humans
II. Textile is the class of material closest to Nature
III. Textile is the class of material closest to EMOTIONS and
Mental states
Smart Textiles
- For a better world through textile innovation
The largest resource for
textile research in Northern
Europe



Full scale equipment 

Yarn spinning
Weaving 

Knitting 

Textile printing 

Coating
Sewing
Borås, Sweden
¨The Textile Centre
of Sweden¨
Health and Medicine Architecture and InteriorSustainable Textiles
Smart Textiles
CLEAN, ACCESSIBLE WATER
ENSURING HEALTHY LIVES
THE POWER OF SUSTAINABLE
ENERGY
RUNNING OUT OF RAW
MATERIALS
THE BRIDGE
Textiles do adress all
these
some quick examples from us
Clean, Accessible Water
Clean, Accessible Water
Xia Huang, Yaobin Meng, Peng Liang, Yi Qian
Operational conditions of a membrane filtration reactor coupled with
photocatalytic oxidation Separation and Purification Technology
Volume 55, Issue 2, 15 June 2007,
P 165–172
?
fixed bed reactors slurry reactors
Remediation (water) reactors - the basic
constructions
Figure of
merit=Ac /Ap
Ac total area
coated
Ac projected area
Clean, Accessible Water
Xia Huang, Yaobin Meng, Peng Liang, Yi Qian
Operational conditions of a membrane filtration reactor coupled with
photocatalytic oxidation Separation and Purification Technology
Volume 55, Issue 2, 15 June 2007,
P 165–172
?
fixed bed reactors slurry reactorsfluffy
Remediation (water) reactors - the basic
constructions
Textile
characterization
s:
Softness, pliability
Drapability
Cuttable
Foldable
Possible to roll up
Transportable
Covering
Large area systems 2D
Thinness
Low weight
Cheap, repeatable
Mature technology
Culturally accepted
Figure of
merit=Ac /Ap
Ac total area
coated
Ac projected area
Clean, Accessible Water
Clean, Accessible Water
Biosorption of Artificial wetland
fabrics. Copper concentration in
the surrounding solution versus
time using Atomic Absorption
Spectrometer, AAS.
Clean, Accessible Water
• Textiles as a basic for water purification
• Targeting
-Microorganisms
-Metals
• Large area
• Simplicity
• Eco perspective
• Merging textiles and life science
• Waste water, storm water, deposits,

remediation
Ensuring Healthy Lives
Question
Supporting Medicine&Care sector
for enhanced care demand
Medical textiles as enabler for
selfempowerment
Target
Patient suffering from spacticity
Electrostimulation of muscles
Result
Available product on the
Scandinatvian market.
Through the cooperation
Electrodress has access to
possible producers.
Deeper research projects together
with researchers from the
University of Boras financed by KK
stiftelsen.
I. Textile is the class of material closest to humans
Ensuring Healthy Lives
Question
Supporting Medicine&Care sector
for enhanced care demand
Medical textiles as enabler for
selfempowerment
Target
Patient suffering from spacticity
Electrostimulation of muscles
Result
Available product on the
Scandinavian market.
Through the cooperation
Electrodress has access to
possible producers.
Deeper research projects together
with researchers from the
University of Boras financed by KK
stiftelsen.
I. Textile is the class of material closest to humans
The Power Of Sustainable
Energy
• Small solar panels
100mW/cm2 in direct sunlight and
100μW/cm2 in indirect light.
• Thermoelectric devices
10 mW/cm2 furnace exhaust stack.
10μW/cm2 body heat
•Piezoelectric elements
100μW/cm2 depending on their size and
construction.
• RF energy harvesting
100pW/cm2
Energy
harvesting:
•light,
•heat differentials
•vibrating beams
•transmitted RF
signals
The Power Of Sustainable
Energy
• Small solar panels
100mW/cm2 in direct sunlight and
100μW/cm2 in indirect light.
• Thermoelectric devices
10 mW/cm2 furnace exhaust stack.
10μW/cm2 body heat
•Piezoelectric elements
100μW/cm2 depending on their size and
construction.
• RF energy harvesting
100pW/cm2
Energy
harvesting:
•light,
•heat differentials
•vibrating beams
•transmitted RF
signals
The Power Of Sustainable
Energy
Piezoelectricity - electricity or electric polarity due
to pressure especially in a crystalline substance
Encyclopedia Britannica
Focus shoe/sole/
sock
▪ (relative) stability
▪ fix structures neareby
▪ periodicity in patterns
▪ “textilization” possible
▪ short wiring distances
▪ Basal area for human
movement
▪ Important for most
sports
▪ Breddidrott – event
organizers
STEPS Smart Textiles Evaluation
Platform for Socks
The Power Of Sustainable
Energy
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
The Gap
Peak Cotton
Fossil based raw
materials
Environment and CSR
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
The Gap
World population = world demand
World fibre production capability
year
The Gap
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Peak Cotton- Food vs cotton
- Fresh water issue
- Pesticide spread
Then, what are we
doing?
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
New feedstock
Re:
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
New feedstock
Paper textile
5 kg 3 kg
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
New feedstock
Peak Cotton,
really…?
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
New feedstock
From a pair
of jeans to
the YELLOW
SHIRT
The world
first
chemically
recycled
cotton
garment
Project: Den gula klänningen
by: Lena-Marie Jensen, SKS, 

KTH Re:newcell AB,
GreenHouse Labs
Recycled textile fibres
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
New feedstock From
cellulose to
the
WHITE
ONEPIECE
Swedish
pulp 90%
and10%
Re:newcell
Project: Textiles
back to textiles
Wood cellulose based
textile
CO2
One of the most severe problems whatsoever
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
New feedstock
…-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-…
This is what is needed
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
New feedstock
New feedstock?
AIR!?
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
New feedstock
Project: Made from
Air
Dedicated Institute, Smart Textiles, Swedish
School of Textiles
climate neutral textiles climate POSITIVE
textiles
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
New feedstock
Re:
-Reuse, reduce,
recycle
-Resource focused
- ”Det glömda och gömda” - Waste
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Re:
Re:
For the textile
community: Redesign,
refresh, repair, redo
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Re:
Re:
- Textile is a material class that is possible to
work with
- Slöjd in school
- Artist in shops (co-creation)
- Transparent value chains
- Empower the industry
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Running Out Of Raw
Materials
Re:
Welcome! Contact: smarttextiles@hb.se
Smart Textiles
Showroom

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Nils-Krister Persson

  • 1. Nils-Krister Persson PhD ass. Professor, docent head of Smart Textiles Technology Lab Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, nils-
  • 2. Textile is unique among classes of man- made materials
  • 3. Textile and textile community creates problem Textile and textile processing provides solutions
  • 4. If textiles did not exist…
  • 5. If textiles did not exist… All humans wear textiles: 100% market coverage There has been no culture ever not having textiles Textiles is ever present 24-7 in human life: 20 min 1.39 % is textileless
  • 6. If textiles did not exist… All humans wear textiles: 100% market coverage There has been no culture ever not having textiles Textiles is ever present 24-7 in human life: 20 min 1.39 % is textileless ▪ Create 2D surfaces - 
 cheap and with precision ▪ Obtain lightweight materials ▪ 2D continuity ▪ Cover large and small 
 objects (mm)2 to (km)2 ▪ Interfaces ▪ Drape ▪ Create flexible function ▪ Handle (1D) strength ▪ Create distance ▪ Create porous layers ▪ Create dense layer ▪ Express aesthetics ▪ Patterns - periodic ▪ Create high tensile strength
  • 7. I. Textile is the class of material closest to humans
  • 8. Technosph ere • synthetic, artificial, man-made realm • System • Functions • Artefacts Biospher e • the totality of biological matter • system • functions • biofacts
  • 9. Characteristics of biofacts and “nature as a manufacturer” The way technology address these items Biological materials are made from one or both of two polymers: proteins (poly(amino acids)) and polysaccharides (polymers mostly of six-carbon sugars or hexoses). For plastic a very large number of polymers have been synthesis showing a wide spectrum of properties. Besides metal and metal alloys, ceramics, glass are used Fluxes of energy, info and materials Fluxes of energy, info and materials Waterbased chemistry Water is used in industrial processes but also a spectrum of hazardous solvents Structures are often hierarchical Sometimes hierarchical Self-assembly Top-down such as drilling, cutting, sawing - subtractive manufacturing Bottom up Top-down Rounded surfaces Typical sharp, square, surfaces; triangles Flexibility, pliability Rigid, hard Soft matter (exceptions include teeth) Hard (metals, synthetic diamonds and alike) Adaption (sometimes tropism, or on long term : migration) Artefacts are dead, just recently “smart” materials have appeared Recyclable and degradable Deposition, just recently recycling Fibres i.e. prolonged structures common Rods, tubes, pillars, all stiff are common Composites Composites Porous, Often impermeable sides for protection water beneficial in fluxes and processes water destructive Periodicity on some scale Materials both and without periodicity exist Comparison of biofacts from a material point of view and counterparts in techne, and, in mid column textile matching indicated by X Comparing the artificial, biofacts and textiles
  • 10. Characteristics of biofacts and “nature as a manufacturer” The way technology address these items Biological materials are made from one or both of two polymers: proteins (poly(amino acids)) and polysaccharides (polymers mostly of six-carbon sugars or hexoses). X For plastic a very large number of polymers have been synthesis showing a wide spectrum of properties. Besides metal and metal alloys, ceramics, glass are used Fluxes of energy, info and materials Fluxes of energy, info and materials Waterbased chemistry Water is used in industrial processes but also a spectrum of hazardous solvents Structures are often hierarchical X Sometimes hierarchical Self-assembly X Top-down such as drilling, cutting, sawing - subtractive manufacturing Bottom up X Top-down Rounded surfaces X Typical sharp, square, surfaces; triangles Flexibility, pliability X Rigid, hard Soft matter (exceptions include teeth) X Hard (metals, synthetic diamonds and alike) Adaption (sometimes tropism, or on long term : migration) Artefacts are dead, just recently “smart” materials have appeared Recyclable and degradable X Deposition, just recently recycling Fibres i.e. prolonged structures common Rods, tubes, pillars, all stiff are common Composites X Composites Porous, X Often impermeable sides for protection water beneficial in fluxes and processes water destructive Periodicity on some scale X Materials both and without periodicity exist Comparison of biofacts from a material point of view and counterparts in techne, and, in mid column textile matching indicated by X Comparing the artificial, biofacts and textiles
  • 11. II. Textile is the class of material closest to Nature
  • 17. III. Textile is the class of material closest to EMOTIONS
  • 18. Textile is unique among classes of man- made materials
  • 19. I. Textile is the class of material closest to humans II. Textile is the class of material closest to Nature III. Textile is the class of material closest to EMOTIONS and Mental states
  • 20. Smart Textiles - For a better world through textile innovation
  • 21. The largest resource for textile research in Northern Europe
 
 Full scale equipment 
 Yarn spinning Weaving 
 Knitting 
 Textile printing 
 Coating Sewing Borås, Sweden ¨The Textile Centre of Sweden¨
  • 22. Health and Medicine Architecture and InteriorSustainable Textiles Smart Textiles
  • 23. CLEAN, ACCESSIBLE WATER ENSURING HEALTHY LIVES THE POWER OF SUSTAINABLE ENERGY RUNNING OUT OF RAW MATERIALS THE BRIDGE
  • 24. Textiles do adress all these some quick examples from us
  • 26. Clean, Accessible Water Xia Huang, Yaobin Meng, Peng Liang, Yi Qian Operational conditions of a membrane filtration reactor coupled with photocatalytic oxidation Separation and Purification Technology Volume 55, Issue 2, 15 June 2007, P 165–172 ? fixed bed reactors slurry reactors Remediation (water) reactors - the basic constructions Figure of merit=Ac /Ap Ac total area coated Ac projected area
  • 27. Clean, Accessible Water Xia Huang, Yaobin Meng, Peng Liang, Yi Qian Operational conditions of a membrane filtration reactor coupled with photocatalytic oxidation Separation and Purification Technology Volume 55, Issue 2, 15 June 2007, P 165–172 ? fixed bed reactors slurry reactorsfluffy Remediation (water) reactors - the basic constructions Textile characterization s: Softness, pliability Drapability Cuttable Foldable Possible to roll up Transportable Covering Large area systems 2D Thinness Low weight Cheap, repeatable Mature technology Culturally accepted Figure of merit=Ac /Ap Ac total area coated Ac projected area
  • 29. Clean, Accessible Water Biosorption of Artificial wetland fabrics. Copper concentration in the surrounding solution versus time using Atomic Absorption Spectrometer, AAS.
  • 30. Clean, Accessible Water • Textiles as a basic for water purification • Targeting -Microorganisms -Metals • Large area • Simplicity • Eco perspective • Merging textiles and life science • Waste water, storm water, deposits,
 remediation
  • 31. Ensuring Healthy Lives Question Supporting Medicine&Care sector for enhanced care demand Medical textiles as enabler for selfempowerment Target Patient suffering from spacticity Electrostimulation of muscles Result Available product on the Scandinatvian market. Through the cooperation Electrodress has access to possible producers. Deeper research projects together with researchers from the University of Boras financed by KK stiftelsen. I. Textile is the class of material closest to humans
  • 32. Ensuring Healthy Lives Question Supporting Medicine&Care sector for enhanced care demand Medical textiles as enabler for selfempowerment Target Patient suffering from spacticity Electrostimulation of muscles Result Available product on the Scandinavian market. Through the cooperation Electrodress has access to possible producers. Deeper research projects together with researchers from the University of Boras financed by KK stiftelsen. I. Textile is the class of material closest to humans
  • 33. The Power Of Sustainable Energy • Small solar panels 100mW/cm2 in direct sunlight and 100μW/cm2 in indirect light. • Thermoelectric devices 10 mW/cm2 furnace exhaust stack. 10μW/cm2 body heat •Piezoelectric elements 100μW/cm2 depending on their size and construction. • RF energy harvesting 100pW/cm2 Energy harvesting: •light, •heat differentials •vibrating beams •transmitted RF signals
  • 34. The Power Of Sustainable Energy • Small solar panels 100mW/cm2 in direct sunlight and 100μW/cm2 in indirect light. • Thermoelectric devices 10 mW/cm2 furnace exhaust stack. 10μW/cm2 body heat •Piezoelectric elements 100μW/cm2 depending on their size and construction. • RF energy harvesting 100pW/cm2 Energy harvesting: •light, •heat differentials •vibrating beams •transmitted RF signals
  • 35. The Power Of Sustainable Energy Piezoelectricity - electricity or electric polarity due to pressure especially in a crystalline substance Encyclopedia Britannica
  • 36. Focus shoe/sole/ sock ▪ (relative) stability ▪ fix structures neareby ▪ periodicity in patterns ▪ “textilization” possible ▪ short wiring distances ▪ Basal area for human movement ▪ Important for most sports ▪ Breddidrott – event organizers STEPS Smart Textiles Evaluation Platform for Socks The Power Of Sustainable Energy
  • 37. Running Out Of Raw Materials
  • 38. Running Out Of Raw Materials The Gap Peak Cotton Fossil based raw materials Environment and CSR
  • 39. Running Out Of Raw Materials The Gap World population = world demand World fibre production capability year The Gap
  • 40. Running Out Of Raw Materials Peak Cotton- Food vs cotton - Fresh water issue - Pesticide spread
  • 41. Then, what are we doing? Running Out Of Raw Materials
  • 42. New feedstock Re: Running Out Of Raw Materials
  • 43. Running Out Of Raw Materials New feedstock Paper textile
  • 44. 5 kg 3 kg Running Out Of Raw Materials New feedstock Peak Cotton, really…?
  • 45. Running Out Of Raw Materials New feedstock From a pair of jeans to the YELLOW SHIRT The world first chemically recycled cotton garment Project: Den gula klänningen by: Lena-Marie Jensen, SKS, 
 KTH Re:newcell AB, GreenHouse Labs Recycled textile fibres
  • 46. Running Out Of Raw Materials New feedstock From cellulose to the WHITE ONEPIECE Swedish pulp 90% and10% Re:newcell Project: Textiles back to textiles Wood cellulose based textile
  • 47. CO2 One of the most severe problems whatsoever Running Out Of Raw Materials Running Out Of Raw Materials New feedstock
  • 48. …-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-… This is what is needed Running Out Of Raw Materials Running Out Of Raw Materials New feedstock
  • 49. New feedstock? AIR!? Running Out Of Raw Materials Running Out Of Raw Materials New feedstock
  • 50. Project: Made from Air Dedicated Institute, Smart Textiles, Swedish School of Textiles climate neutral textiles climate POSITIVE textiles Running Out Of Raw Materials Running Out Of Raw Materials New feedstock
  • 51. Re: -Reuse, reduce, recycle -Resource focused - ”Det glömda och gömda” - Waste Running Out Of Raw Materials Running Out Of Raw Materials Re:
  • 52. Re: For the textile community: Redesign, refresh, repair, redo Running Out Of Raw Materials Running Out Of Raw Materials Re:
  • 53. Re: - Textile is a material class that is possible to work with - Slöjd in school - Artist in shops (co-creation) - Transparent value chains - Empower the industry Running Out Of Raw Materials Running Out Of Raw Materials Re: