2. SPECCHEM Industry Inc. with its latest innovative
product SpecKare® BTS Saponins won the Gold
medal in the category of Functional ingredients
range.
Who are the judges? All Innovation Zone and Spotlight On exhibitors were eligible for the Awards.
Judges are independent and follow strict judging criteria.
Lorna Radford, Enkos Developments & in-cosmetics Asia Official Technical Advisor;
Kilala Tilaar, Martha Tilaar Group;Muriel Pujos, Coty;Stacey Fraser, Nature’s Blueprint
Belinda Carli, The Institute of Personal Care Science;Karen Lintz, UL;Dr. Travis Badenhorst, Snowberry
Rouah Al Wakeel, Technical Consultant;Mawarni Hassan, Consultant
SpecPure® BTS Saponins
SpecKare® BTS Saponins(Spec-Chem) won the Gold Award!
3. Contents
Introduction of Saponins-SpecPure ® BTS Saponins
2
Spec Chem’s (SC’s) Development History of Plant Extracts
1
3
SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Application Guide
4
Natural & Bioactive SC’s Tea Seed Extract Family
SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
5
4. Spec Chem’s (SC’s) Development History of Plant Extracts
1
When established in 1995, Spec-Chem (SC) discovered the advantages of plant extracts in Cosmetics;
For more than 20 years, SC has been dedicated to decipher the secrets of Natural Plants;
Now we are ready to open SC’s Botanical Garden and launch various bioactive plant extracts to our customer.
SC established
1995
1996
Established SC’s
Plant Science R&D Center
2000
Established
ISO & GMP System
Supplied Ingredients
to MNCs
Focus on Efficacy Study
Of Plant Extract
Keep Innovating
Four Production Bases
2002
2009
ISO 9001/14001
5. Spec Chem’s (SC’s) Development History of Plant Extracts
1
Li Xingang, Associate Professor
(Technical Expert)
Leader of Plant Extraction Project
Over 36-year experience
Published abundant monographs &
papers
6. Spec Chem’s (SC’s) Development History of Plant Extracts
1
Chinese Tea Culture: spreading tea culture around the world
—Chinese tea, traced back to Zhou Dynasty
For thousands of years, tea as one of the most important core commodities are traded through ancient commercial passage and pathway-The Silk Road & The Tea-horse Ancient
Road, which stretched across more than thousands of kilometers.
Types of Tea:Green tea, White tea, Yellow tea, Black tea, Dark tea...
7. Natural & Bioactive SC’s Tea Seed Extract Family
2
Origin: from Camellia Sinensis Seed
Camellia sinensis is a species of evergreen shrub or small tree whose leaves and leaf buds are
used to produce tea. It is of the genus Camellia of flowering plants in the family Theaceae. Common
names include "tea plant", "tea shrub", and "tea tree" (not to be confused with Melaleuca alternifolia,
the source of tea tree oil, or Leptospermum scoparium, the Mānuka or New Zealand Teatree from
which Mānuka Honey is derived).
Camellia sinensis, the tea tree needs 4 years to grow and 7 years to bear fruit, lives for
thousands of years, borns between 1000 and 2100 meters above sea level.
SpecPure® BTS Saponins comes from the tea tree of the 1940s.
SpecPure® BTS Saponins was obtained by physical extraction of Camellia Sinensis
Seeds, whose active ingredients are Saponins.
Edible
Pu'er Tea Seed
8. Introduction of Saponins-SpecPure ® BTS Saponins
3
SpecPure® BTS Saponins: Glycoside compounds, extracted from the seed of
edible Camellia Sinensis (Pu'er tea, produced in southwestern Yunnan), as a
natural non-ionic surfactant can significantly reduce the liquid surface tension thus
is widely used in personal & home care, pharmaceutical, textile and other
industries.
100% Natural, Organic & Safe
Extraordinary Foam Performance
Effectively Anti-fungal Ability
EO-free Natural Solubilizer
Versatile Use & Compatibility
O/W Emulsifying Properties
Excellent Decontamination
Outstanding Antiseborrhoic
Luxurious Rinse Feeling
Environmentally Friendly
Widespread Application
More Formulation Flexibility
SpecPure® BTS Saponins
INCI Name: Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
COSMOS HALAL VEGAN
SpecKareTM BTS
INCI Name: Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
COSMOS HALAL VEGAN
Booth NO: L40
9. Introduction of Saponins-SpecPure ® BTS Saponins
3
Product Information:
SpecPure® BTS Saponins
Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
84650-60-2
283-519-7
Customized
Keep in dark and cool place
2 years
Personal Care-Facial cleanser, shampoo,
body wash, mouth wash, etc.
Household Use-Natural dish cleaner, feeding-bottle cleaner,
fruit and vegetable cleaner, etc.
Agriculture-Biological pesticide, plat growth accelerator, etc.
…
Skin Care & Oral Care 0.05-2%
Hair Care 0.5-5%
Household Use 2-20%
…
Product:
INCI Name:
CAS No.:
EC No.:
Package:
Storage:
Shelf life:
Application:
Dosage:
Items Specification
Appearance Light yellow power
Tea saponin ≥95.0%
Loss on drying ≤5.0%
Ash ≤5.0%
Heavy metals (as Pb) ≤5ppm
Arsenic ≤2ppm
Aerobic plate ≤1000cfu/g
Yeast & mould ≤100cfu/g
10. Introduction of Saponins-SpecPure ® BTS Saponins
3
In 1992
Hydrophilic
Structure & Properties (Amphipathic):
Glucoside
Organic acid
or others
The structure of saponin extracted from Tea Seed
The saponins extracted from tea seed has no biting/spicy taste and also has no irritation to mucous membranes.
Hydrophobic
(Or lipophilic)
Amphipathic:
SpecPure® BTS Saponins Belongs to the triterpene glycosides
11. Introduction of Saponins-SpecPure ® BTS Saponins
3
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
55
60
0 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000 9000 10000
Surface
Tension
(mN/m)
SpecPure® BTS Saponins (ppm)
Surface Tension of SpecPure® BTS Saponins
SpecPure® BTS Saponins can lower the energy of the
interface on the surface strongly, thus SpecPure® BTS
Saponins shows excellent surfactivity at tiny concentration
and can be used as the natural botanical cleansing agent.
The critical micelle concentration (CMC)
is defined as the concentration of
surfactants above which micelles form and
all additional surfactants added to the
system will form micelles.
The CMC is an important characteristic of a surfactant. Before reaching the CMC, the surface tension changes strongly with the concentration of the surfactant. After reaching the CMC,
the surface tension remains relatively constant or changes with a lower slope. The value of the CMC for a given dispersant in a given medium depends on temperature, pressure, and
(sometimes strongly) on the presence and concentration of other surface active substances and electrolytes. Micelles only form above critical micelle temperature.
Critical micelle concentration (CMC) ——Surfactivity
12. Introduction of Saponins-SpecPure ® BTS Saponins
3
Predicted surfactant properties, according to HLB Value Griffin
HLB Predicted Property
0-3(3.5) Anti-foaming agents
(3.5)4-6 W/O emulsifiers
7-9 Wetting agents
8-18 O/W emulsifiers
13-15 Typical detergents
15-18 Solubilizers
Natural State at the Surface of Water Standard Model
Schematic diagram of saponin surfactant configuration
Structure & Properties:
Between low molecular and high molecular surfactant
Hydrophilic groups: oxygen-containing groups (glucoside and ester)
Hydrophobic/oleophilic groups: non-polar hydrocarbon ring chains
HLB Value (saponins)=7+∑H-∑L=7+34.9-26.6=15.3
Calculated Value, Critical Micelle Concentration(CMC):HLB Value (saponins)=16
HLB Value (saponins)=15-17
Estimated Value, Davies
13. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Safety :
Acute skin irritation is a local, reversible inflammatory
response resulting from normal skin contact with
irritating drugs. The mechanism of skin irritation occurs
because the test substance contacts the skin by
expanding, infiltrating or destroying the epidermal
barrier, and then acting on the stratum corneum cells
to produce a toxic effect.
The method employs a three dimensional human skin
model with a functional epidermal stratum corneum
structure, which is evaluated by the percentage of the
stimulating or corrosive threshold dose level defined by
the test substance after the skin is exposed and the cell
viability is decreased by measurement. The irritant
strength of the test substance.
Cosmetics and skin interactionsa Highly Similar Testing Process of Episkin Model
Group
Positive control
(5% SDS)
Negative control
(DPBS buffer solution)
SpecPure® BTS
Saponins
Mean OD士SD 0.054±0.002 0.393±0.002 0.283±0.004
Viability (%) 13.75±0.51 100 72.07±1.02
Conclusion: (according to OECD TG 439 chemicals in vitro skin irritation) reconstructed human epidermis test method,under the testing conditions, the tissue
viability of the sample " SpecPure® BTS Saponins“ is 72.07% (viability >50% ) and it is considered as no skin irritation.
From-SpecPure®BTS Saponins 95 Skin Irritation Test Report
Result of skin irritation in vitro on Episkin skin model
14. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Various SpecPure® BTS Saponins Soln.(w/w%) SpecPure® BTS Saponins: Compatible with PotassiumCocoyl Glycinate,
Sodium methyl cocoyl Taurate, Coco Glucoside (SpecSufcTM APG0814 )、
Polyquaternium(PQ39)
Appearance & Comaptibility
A 1% SpecPure® BTS Saponins +10% Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate
B 1% SpecPure® BTS Saponins +10% Sodium methyl cocoyl Taurate
C 1% SpecPure® BTS Saponins +10% APG0814
D 1% SpecPure® BTS Saponins +2% PQ39 (Note:w/w%)
A B C D
0.5% 1% 2% 5% 10% 20%
15. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Foam testing is conducted according to GB/ T13173-2008 Roche foam standard , height (mm) changes with time, @40±0.5℃, AD%=0.25%
SpecPure® BTS Saponins has luxurious foam (>100mm), and steady
foam (excellent foam stability), during 7min, height (decresing)<5mm.
Prepare 8% SpecPure®BTS Saponins soln.,
Pumped foam as follows:
SpecPure®BTS Saponins soln., weakly acidic pH,
mild & gentle to skin, rich and dense foam
leaves luxurious skin feeling.
Foam Performance(Height)in deionized water and 150ppm hard water:
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
0min 1min 3min 5min
Foam
Height/mm
The effect of water hardness on the foam performance of
SpecPure®BTS Saponins
SpecPure® BTS Saponins has excellent hard water resistance.
■ 150ppm hard water ■ deionized water
Rich & Luxurious Foam
16. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Comparative Study of SpecPure®BTS Saponins VS Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (Traditional)
SpecPure®BTS Saponins
SpecPure®BTS Saponins has comparitive foam vs
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate in the beginning, then
gradually performs better than Ammonium Laureth
Sulfate.
While Ammonium Laureth Sulfate has flashing foam
which is not suitable for high-end products.
Weakly acidic pH, mild & gentle, rich, luxurious and
steady foam, suitable for all types rinse-off products.
Foam Appearance:
Left-8 (w/w%) soln. Ammonium Laureth Sulfate; Right-8 (w/w%) SpecPure®BTS Saponins Soln.
30 S 5 min 15 min
30 min 1 h 2 h
17. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Summary:
• SpecPure® BTS Saponins (5.0 w/w%) can decrease the excessive secretion of oil and sebum at skin’s surface quickly and effectively within 8 hours, by detecting the
change of sebum secretion of testing subjects (30, average), which indicates that SpecPure® BTS Saponins can be used in oil-control products.
• Thus SpecPure® BTS Saponins can help maintaining and balancing skin’s microbiome by helping inhibiting the reproduction of lipophilic pathogens.
Oil-control Property & Decrease excessive sebum——Balance Skin’s Microbiome
Skin Sebum Secretion
18. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Anti-fungal Property:
Candida albicans is not only widely found in nature, but also in the human mouth, upper respiratory tract, intestines and vagina.
Candida albicans can invade many parts of the body and can cause:
1. cutaneous candidiasis, which occurs in the skin folds, causes the skin to be flushed, damp, shiny, sometimes is covered
with a white or ruptured film and surrounded by small blisters.
2. Mucosal candidiasis, the most common form of vaginitis, is covered with a white film of varying size of curd on the mucosal
surface. After stripping, it leaves a flushed base and produces fissures and superficial ulcers.
Candida albicans
Aspergillus niger
As a result of its rapid growth, Aspergillus niger can easily pollute the environment through diffusion, posing a threat to
the production of products, resulting in product degradation and reduced value.
It causes a disease called "black mold" on certain fruits and vegetables such as grapes, apricots, onions, and peanuts,
and is a common contaminant of food. It is ubiquitous in soil and is commonly reported from indoor environments,
where its black colonies can be confused with those of Stachybotrys (species of which have also been called "black
mold").
19. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Anti-fungal
Fungus
SpecPure® BTS Saponins
Candida albicans 0.04%
Aspergillus niger 0.5%
SpecPure® BTS Saponins has not only surface active, but also biologically active. Its physiological
functions include anti-fungal.
It can be seen that SpecPure® BTS Saponins had a strong inhibitory effect on Candida
albicans, which indicated it is also suitable for feminine care products.
Using SpecPure® BTS Saponins can effectively inhibit Aspergillus niger, preventing
mildew and retain product value.
VS. Traditional Saponins extracted from Tea Leaf,MIC values on staphylococcus aureus, bacillus,
streptococcus are 400ug/mL (0.04%), while have no inhibiting effect on pseudomonas aeruginosa and candida albicans.
The mechanism of saponins’ antifungal action: saponins can be combined with the cholesterol
complex of bacterial membrane.
20. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Antimicrobial Property:
If the concentration of Saponins reach 10.24 mg/mL, Saponins show inhibitory effect on colon bacillus.
Tea seed Saponins has apparent inhibition on candida albicans, gules tinea fungus, purple tinea fungus, yellow tinea
fungus, floccus shape epidermis tinea fungus, break hair tinea fungus, gesso kind tinea fungus. Among which, the
inhibitory effect on candida albicans is the strongest with the MIC: 0.0625-0.2500mg/mL (0.00625-0.025%). For the left
six fungus, the MIC is 0.125-1.000mg/mL (0.0125%-0.1%).
Identify antimicrobial compounds from Green Tea Seed (GTS) extract: the GTS extract showed only anti-yeast activity against
Candida albicans with MIC value of 938 μg/mL (0.0938%) and Zygosaccharomyces rouxii with a MIC of 469 μg/mL (0.0469). The
active compounds were shown in slide 11. GTS extracts didn't show mutagenicity, also showed a potent food preservation affect
which eliminated all yeast below the MIC value in application test at soy sauce. could be a safe and effective food preservative
with anti-yeast activity.
Ju Hee Choi etc. Food Research International 105 (2018) 982–988
Liu hong, hu di. Research progress on the structure and biological activity of tea saponins, hunan agricultural science, 2017, (5): 119-122
Shimin Zhao. Study on the chemical structure and pharmacological activity of tea saponins,plant medicine, 1998,13 (1): 3-6
21. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Commercial Application in Wet Tissue:
0.2% 0.5% 1.0% 2.0% 5.0%
For cleansing wet tissue, use level 0.2% (as is) is widely accepted by customers.
• Cleansing Excessive Grease
• Cleansing Delicate Skin
• Natural Choice
• Gentle & Mild Choice
22. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
y = 27.382ln(x) + 53.67
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Scavenging
effect
(%)
Concentration(mg/mL)
The free radical (DPPH) scavenging test of SpecPure® BTS Saponins
Summary:according to Brand-Williams (1995)
method, the result shows that the free radical
(DPPH) scavenging rate of SpecPure®BTS
Saponins reaches to 91.4% at concentration of
5.0mg/mL, and the EC50 value of
SpecPure®BTS Saponins is 0.87 mg/mL.
Spec Chem—《The free radical (DPPH) scavenging Report of SpecPure®BTS Saponins》
Antioxidant Property (DPPH) ——Anti-photoaging & Skin Lightening
*DPPH (1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl)
23. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Antioxidant: As a natural deoxidizer, tea saponin can not only eliminate exogenous oxygen free radicals, but
also prevent the production of endogenous oxygen free radicals. Studies have found that it can exert its
antioxidant effect by regulating the content of CAT, DPPH free radicals, gsh-px enzyme, MDA free radicals,
SOD enzyme, hydroxyl free radicals and so on.
Anti-inflammatory: Studies have shown that tea saponins have inhibitory effect on leukotriene D4, and
has a significant inhibitory effect on foot edema of rats induced by carrageenan.Leukotriene D4, as one
of the slow reaction substances of allergies, is an important regulatory factor in many diseases such as
inflammation and asthma, which can increase the permeability of blood vessels and cause the
contraction of smooth muscles and bronchi.
Liu Hong. ResearchProgressinStructureandBioactivityofTeaSaponin. HUNan Agricultural Sciences. 2017 (5) 119-122.
Vogel G . On the pharmacology of tea seed saponins of a saponin mixturefrom tea sinensis L[J]. Arzneimittelforschung, 1968, 18(11):1466-1467.
Antioxidant and Anti-inflammatory:
24. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Inhibitory Effect on Tyrosinase——Skin Lightening by inhibiting melanin production
Purification of tea saponin as well as inhibitory effect and inhibiting mechanism for catalytic
synthesis of DOPA quinone from L-DOPA by potato tyrosinase in vitro was examined.
The tea saponin product that purchased from market, was treated with macroporous resin to get the
preliminarily refined tea saponin product (TS). Then the TS were further purified by chromatographic
method and two kinds of purified tea saponin product were produced as TS1 and TS2.
Results show that:
at mass concentration of 100 g /L, the inhibition rate of the market product, the TS, TS1
and TS2 achieves 51.29%, 90.06%, 94.13% and 82.47% respectively. IC50 of TS and
TS1 achieves 48 and 40 g/L respectively.
The inhibition kinetics analyzed by Lineweaver-Burk plots show that the action of TS and
TS1 express as reversible and competitive inhibition for conversion of L-DOPA.
The inhibition constants for the TS and TS1 achieves 137 and 101 g/L respectively.
Inhibitory
Rate
%
Sun Jinyi. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics. Purification of tea saponin and its inhibition on tyrosinase activity. 2017 47(6) 312-340.
25. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Wang peng, Ma songyan, Guo li. Development and application of fruit and vegetable cleaning agents [J]. Journal of suihua university, 2013, 33(2):154-156
Home Cleansing(Fruit & Vegetable Cleaner/Dish Detergent):
Before fruit and vegetable cleaning agent appeared, it was generally believed that the pesticides residues on
fruits and vegetables and other food materials could be washed off with water, but most of pesticides were
not soluble in water.
Some components of organophosphorus pesticides, such as phosphoryl or thiophosphorus acyl groups may
hydrolyze when exposed to alkaline conditions. Therefore, alkaline solutions are usually used in households
to soak fruits and vegetables for cleaning agricultural residues. However, some pesticides have a chemical
reaction when they are exposed to alkali, which leads to increased toxicity.
By Combing Saponins and alkyl glycoside (APG) at a quality ratio of 1:1, the physicochemical and hygienic
indexes of the self-made fruit and vegetable cleaning agent all reached the national standard GB24691-
2009.
In the experiment of removing pesticide residues in fruits and vegetables, it was found that the tea saponin
product had better effect on removing pesticide residues in fruits and vegetables soaked with
methylpyrifos and permethrin than similar products on the market or washed by tap water.
Plant antibiotics and auxin: 0.1% saponins show inhibitory effect on plant infection virus.
26. 4 SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Evaluation Test
Gastroprotective Effect: Saponins showed an inhibitory
effect on ethanol-induced gastric mucosal lesions in rats at a
dose of 5.0 mg/kg, p.o., and its activity was more potent than
that of Omeplazole.
Anti-alcohol, Liver- protection, Gastrointestin-protection
Morikawa T, Li N, Nagatomo A, et al. Triterpene saponins with gastroprotective effects from tea seed (the seeds of Camellia sinensis) [J]. Journal of
Natural Products,2006, 69 (2):185-190.
28. SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Application Guide
5
Features: This refreshing mouthwash uses SPEC CHEM’s Botanical Non-ionic Surfactant- SpecPure® BTS Saponins functioning as
cleansing agent and antifungal agent. This COSMOS, Organic, HALAL and VEGAN (pending) approved ingredient is very gentle to
your mouth and safe to use in personal & home care products.
Formulation Example 1-SpecPure® BTS Saponins Botanical Refreshing Mouthwash
Product Name Supplier/ INCI Name w/w% Function
A
Water To 100
SpecPure® BTS Saponins Spec Chem/ Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract 2.0
Botanical Cleanser
Antifungal Agent
Glycerin 1.2 Humectant
ParbFree® IPMP100 Spec Chem/ o-Cymen-5-OL 0.8 Bacteriostatic Agent
Sodium Phosphate 0.2 pH Adjuster
Sorbitol 2 Humectant
Stevia Rebaudiana Extract 0.025 Taste Regulator
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil 0.003 Taste Regulator
Menthol 0.005 Taste Regulator
Procedure: Mix all ingredients in Phase A while stirring until uniform. Property: pH (25℃): 4.55
29. SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Application Guide
5
Product Name Supplier/ INCI Name w/w% Function
A
Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate 2.0 Mild Surfactant
SpecPure® BTS Saponins Spec Chem/ Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract 8.0
Botanical
Surfactant
SpecSufc® APG0814 Spec Chem/ Coco Glucoside 6.0 Mild Surfactant
Sodium cocoyl Alaninate 2.0 Mild Surfactant
B
Water To 100
Disodium EDTA 0.05 Chelating Agent
Glycerin 2.0 Humectant
Butylene Glycol 3.0 Humectant
Glycereth-26 4.0 Humectant
SpecKare® DPA Spec Chem/ Panthenol 0.5 Humectant
SpecKare® HAL Spec Chem/ Sodium Hyaluronate HYALURONATE 3.0 Emollient
SpecPlex™ Pcalm
Spec Chem/ Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Portulaca
Oleracea Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipotassium
Glycyrrhizate, Glycerin, Aqua
3.0 Calming Agent
C
Citric Acid pH to 7.0±0.5 q.s. pH Adjuster
ParbFree® CE85 Spec Chem/ Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin 0.7 Preservative
Fragrance 0.1
Formulation Example 2-SpecPure® BTS Saponins—Botanical Gentle Saponins Cleansing Mousse (Creamy)
Description: This sulfate-free Cleanser using botanical
surfactant-SpecPure® BTS Saponins as additive surfactant, so
that it is mild to your delicate skin and scalp. It can be used as
shampoo, body wash, hand wash, even baby cleanser and etc.
It can also mildly and thoroughly remove skin dirt, keep oil
balance and regulate skin to make skin fresh and comfortable.
Procedure:
1. Mix part A and heat to 60℃, stirring until completely uniform;
2. Cool the base below 40 ℃, then add part B;
4. Add part C, stirring until pH to 7.0±0.5 at room temperature.
Properties:
Appearance: Lightly Brown Clear Liquid
pH : 7.0±0.5
Stability: 3 month @45 ℃, RT, -4℃, -18℃
• Creamy
• Elastic
• Luxurious
• Multifunctional (Baby,
Hand, Facial, Body, Hair
Cleanser)
30. SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Application Guide
5
Formulation Example 3-SpecPure® BTS Saponins—Botanical Gentle Sunless Tanning Mousse (Creamy)
Description: This revived self-tan foam glides onto your skin
without leaving any greasy residue while our rich moisturisers
give you beautifully nourished, natural-looking bronzed skin.
The gentle naturally-derived tanners build a natural summer
glow day-by-day, leaving skin full of moisture.
Procedure:
1. Mix part A and heat to 60℃, stirring until completely uniform;
2. Cool the base below 40 ℃, then add part B;
4. Add part C, stirring until pH to 6.0±0.5 at room temperature.
Properties:
Appearance: Lightly Brown Clear Liquid
pH : 6.0±0.5
Stability: 3 month @45 ℃, RT, -4℃, -18℃
• No Slippery
• No Greasy
• Elastic, funny
• Luxurious
• Easy Rinse-off
Product Name Supplier/ INCI Name w/w% Function
SpecPure® BTS Saponins Spec Chem/ Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract 5.0 Botanical Foamer
SpecSufc® APG0814 Spec Chem/ Coco Glucoside 8.0 Foamer
Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate 4.0 Foamer
B
Water To 100
Disodium EDTA 0.05 Chelating Agent
Glycerin 2.0 Humectant
Butylene Glycol 3.0 Humectant
Glycereth-26 4.0 Humectant
Tanbest® DHA Spec Chem/ Dihydroxyacetone
10.0
Self-tanning
Agent
Tanbest® DHB Spec Chem/ Erythrulose
4.0
Self-tanning
Agent
SpecKare® DPA Spec Chem/ Panthenol 0.5 Humectant
SpecKare® HAL Spec Chem/ Sodium Hyaluronate HYALURONATE 3.0 Emollient
SpecPlex™ Pcalm
Spec Chem/ Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Portulaca
Oleracea Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipotassium
Glycyrrhizate, Glycerin, Aqua
3.0 Calming Agent
C
Citric Acid pH to 7.0±0.5 q.s. pH Adjuster
ParbFree® CE85 Spec Chem/ Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin 0.7 Preservative
Fragrance 0.1
31. SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Application Guide
5
Product Name Supplier/ INCI Name w/w% Function
A
Water To 100
Butylene Glycol 3.0 Humectant
Glycerin 2.0 Humectant
Glycereth-26 3.0 Humectant
SpecPure® BTS Saponins Spec Chem/ Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract 0.2 Balancing
SpecKare® BSA Spec Chem/ Betaine Salicylate 1.0 Conditioning
SpecKare® NMF50 Spec Chem/ Betaine 2.0 Humectant
SpecKare® TRHL Spec Chem/ Trehalose 2.0 Humectant
SpecKare® HAL Spec Chem/ Sodium Hyaluronate 3.0 Humectant
SpecPlex™ PCalm Spec Chem/ Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Portulaca
Oleracea Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipotassium
Glycyrrhizate, Glycerin, Caprylyl GlycoL&Ethylhexylglycerin,
Water
3.0 Calming
Disodium EDTA 0.05 Chelating Agent
SpecWhite® VB3 Spec Chem/ Niacinamide 0.1 Whitening Agent
PrzvFree® HE91 Spec Chem/ 0.7 Preservative
Sodium Hydroxide q.s. Adjusting
Fragrance 0.1
Formulation Example 4-SpecPure® BTS Saponins—Purifying Saponins Toner
Description: This toner can effectively moisturize the skin, maintain the healthy
state of the skin, effectively balance the oil secretion, suitable for all kinds of skin.
Procedure:
1.Mix Phase A, stirring until completely dissolved;
Properties:
Appearance: Slightly Yellowish liquid
pH: 6.0±0.5
Stability:45 ℃, -18 ℃ for three month
32. SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Application Guide
5
Procedure:
1.Mix Phase A and stir well under
85℃;
2.Mix Phase E and stir well at 85 ℃,
and then add B ,C to E:
3. Add 1 slowly to 2 while stirring for
10 min at 180r, then stir for 20min
at 300r:
4. Cool to 60℃, add Phase D while
stirring until uniform;
5. Cool to 40℃, add Phase F while
stirring until uniform.
Formulation Example 5-SpecPure® BTS Saponins Facial Cleansing Cream
Ingredients Supplier/ INCI Name Dosage/%
A
Lauric acid 5
Myristic acid 13
Stearic acid 6
SpecThem® GMS Spec Chem/ Glyceryl Stearate 1.5
Glycol Distearate 2.5
B
Glycerin 6
Propylene Glycol 2
C
Water 20
Potassium Hydroxide 5
D
Disodium EDTA 0.1
SpecSufc® CAB Spec Chem/ Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5
SpecSufc® STCM Spec Chem/ Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 6
E
SpecThemTM SCB21
Spec Chem/ Potassium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer
0.3
Water To 100
F
SpecPure® BTS Saponins Spec Chem/ Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract 1
SpecKareTM DPA Spec Chem/ Panthenol 0.5
SpecKareTM VEA Spec Chem/ Tocopheryl Acetate 0.5
ParbFree® PE91 Spec Chem/ Phenoxyethanol&Ethylhexylglycerin 0.8
Fragrance 0.2
33. SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Application Guide
5
Commercial Products:
SiSley
SULWHASOO CONCENTRATED
GINSENG RENEWING EYE CREAM
OBAGI
NU-DERM Exfoderm 4 Skin
Exfoliating Lotion, AM
SELLA
Premium Natural Cleansing Bar
CHRISTIAN DIOR
HYDRALIFE MICELLAR WATER NO
RINSE CLEANSER
Innisfree
derma formula Cream
Kanebo
TWANY CENTURY
34. SpecPure ® BTS Saponins Application Guide
5
Application:
Skin (Facial/Body) Clean & Care, Hair/Scalp Clean & Care, Make-up Micellar Water, Oral Clean & Care, Feminine Clean & Care,
Pet Clean & Care, Baby Clean & Care, Home Clean & Care (Fruit & Vegetable/Dish/Laundry Detergent), etc.
35. Appendix-Spec Chem’s Surfactants
6
Sepc Chem’s Full Range of Surfactants
NO. Trade Name EN INCI Name EN
1 SpecSufc® DCP Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
2 SpecSufc® CAB Cocamidopropyl Betaine
NO. Trade Name EN INCI Name EN
12 SpecBio® SL Glycolipid
13 SpecPure®BTS Saponins Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
NO. Trade Name EN INCI Name EN
3 SpecSufc® LS30 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
4 SpecSufc® KLS 30 Potassium lauroyl sarcosinate
5 SpecSufc® SCI Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
NO. Trade Name EN INCI Name EN
6 SpecSufc® APG0810 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
7 SpecSufc® APG225 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
8 SpecSufc® APG8170 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
9 SpecSufc® APG1214 Lauryl Glucoside
10 SpecSufc® APG0814 Coco Glucoside
11 SpecSufc® SCG Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
The 2nd Generation
The 3th Generation
The 4th Generation
The 5th Generation
Traditional Soap, Sulfate/EO-Contaning Surfactant