2. Tamil Nadu’s Lambani embroidery involves bright
rainbow-colored fabrics covered with a mosaic of
patchwork mirrors. Their work is sought after for
its vivid clours and alluring patterns. Each piece
depicts an aspect of the Lambani creation myths..
Thread and mirror work originated from Persia in
the 13th century. The round triangle or diamond
shaped mirrors are very intricately fixed on the
cloth with a framework of stitches.
13. The Kashmiri embroidery commonly known with its traditional
name Kashida is famous for its sheer beauty. The motifs of flowers,
creepers, chinar leaves and mangos often draw inspiration from
the beautiful nature around the valley.
Kashmiri embroidery is known for the skilled execution of a single
stitch. Sometimes one or two styles of stitches are used on one
fabric. These stitches are often called Kashmiri stitch. Chain stitch,
satin stitch, the slanted darn stitch, stem, herringbone and
sometimes the doori or knot stitches are used but not more than
one or two at a time. The designs and motifs employed are Notus,
Ghobi, Chinar leaf, birds, Blossoms and Trees. The base cloth
whether wool or cotton, is generally white or creme or other
similar shades. Pastel colors are also often used. The craftsmen use
the color shades often blending with the background. Thread
colors are inspired by nature seen around.
14. Sozni embroidery or dorukha is often done so skillfully that
the motif appears on both sides of the shawl each side
having a different color. There is no wrong side. The same
design is produced in different colors on both sides.
Another type of needle embroidery is popularly known as
'papier mache' embroidery because flowers and leaves are
worked in satin stitch in bright colors drawing inspiration
from the beautiful paintings done on papier mache craft, and
each motif is then outlined in black. This is done either in
broad panels on either side of the breadth of a shawl, or
covering the entire surface of a stole.
A third type of embroidery is ari or hook embroidery; motifs
here are the well-known flower design finely worked in
concentric rings of chain stitch. This is same as colored Zari or
ari embroidery.
15.
16. Usually the kashmir work Is done using fly sttich,
fern sttich or stem stitch with stright stitches.For
the flowers herring bone or satin stitchs are used.
If you want to make it look grand you can use
kundans for flowers and tikkis/sequins/chamkis
on each fly stitch or you can use beads. Fern stitch
is used and for outline continuous detached chain
stitch is done. some of the motifs used in sozni are
as follows:
17. Jamwara - an all over design entire surface is covered
with embroidery
Jalidar- an all over design wherein the entire surface is
not covered. the design simply grows like a net
Khatraash-any kind of lines, diagonal or vertical, in the
shawl body
Dordar khurd- a broad border on the 2 ends of the
shawl, with the minimum width of 3 inches. This is the
broadest border to be found on the shawls.
Meemdor- a slightly narrower border around 2 inches
in width.
18. Hashidar-even narrower-having a minimum width
of about 1 inch.
Beldar-This is a narrower border minimum width is
about one centimeter.
Bootidar- any shawl with bootis on the ground.
Babbar-when there are checks in the weave of the
cloth.
Chaarbadaam-4 paisleys on the four corners of the
shawl.
Atthara bootis-18 motifs within the ground of the
shawl.