Clothing of Gujarat

1. HISTORY OF DESIGN
AND FASHION

2. Clothing of Gujarat
Ashavali Saree
Ahmedabad has been a well known center for textile
manufacturer in India since early time. This ancient city was
earlier known as Ashaval, from which the term Ashavali for
hand wowen fabrics appears to have been derived though the
antiquity of the town has not yet been confirmed, its
geographical location has been eastiblished . According to
latest reaserch its boundries extended from sarangpur in the
east, Ramnath in the West , Kamnath on the south,
and maneknath on the north. The town also known as
karnavati.

3. Ashavali Saree
 The Ashavali saris named after the old city of Ahmedabad in
Gujarat, had rich brocaded patterns woven in twill weave, a
specialty of the area.
 Intricately woven silken patterns were embedded into the gold
surface in myriad colors and were known as meenakari, imitating the
enamel work prepared on Jewellery.

4. Ashavali Saree
 The Ashavali from the town of Aashval is popular for its rich colors in
contrast to the simple brocade border. The Ashavali woven in inlay technique
has four to five colored silk threads interspersed with zari (gold thread).
 Stylized parrots, peacocks, lions and doves appear
quite often with trees and flowers.

5. Ashavali Saree
The Ain-i-Akbari refers to Ahmedabad as a famous center for brocades,
velvets and silk. Duarte Barbosa (1518) writing in the beginning of the
sixteenth century mentions: ". . . wild tribesmen of Malaya who did not
consider their freedom secure until they had stored a pile of Ahmedabad
brocades equal to their own height.
This was the standard ransom for a captive in war."

6. Ashavali Saree
 The varnaka samucchaya, acirca sixteenth–century compilation of
technical and popular terms, mentions the names of various brocaded
garments such as kasbi kanchli (crocade blouse), and so on…
 It also refers to certain common motifs such as gajavadi(elephant border),
Hansavadi (swan border), mandala and putaliun(multiple doll fighres).
A number of these motifs where used in Ashavali borders.
And ashavali sari got names like - Ashavali Popat kinar,
Ankadani shawali kinar, Antani ashavali kinar.

7. Ashavali Saree
Kunwarbai nu Mameru, a poetic work by premanand of
circa eighteenth century, lists several types of textile and
costumes in which the Ashavali is included.
This text refers to magia, doria , and Ashavali Saris which
were in great demand in those days.

8. Ashavali Saree
 The Ashavali brocaded tradition which was popurly known in
translation as “ Fabric of the dream or Wonder land” was later kept
alive in the borders and patterns of saris which were wowen with
golden thread in combination with silk and cotton, using bright and
attractive colours.
 The local weaving technique was called desi vanat and
described as twill weave since Gujarat was not producer of silk, (silk
thread was imported through khambat).

9. Ashavali Saree

10. Ashavali Saree
 The ashavali designs are noted for their rich colour schemes,in
contrast to simple brocaded borders .
 Enameled effect was obtained by weaving the patterns into the
woven zari or gold thread background, with four to five coloured silk
threads.
Designs and Motifs

11. Ashavali Saree
 Stylized parrots ,peacocks and lions appear quite frequently
interwoven with trees and floral motifs.
 Pallavs and kunias, corers of saris, have ornamental repeats of
larger motifs, besides the kalga motifs, the stylized lion motifs
(FIGURE) which is rarely seen in the khunia, is uesd here.
Designs and Motifs
Some of the commonly seen borders are called Gajavali (elephant
border), Popat border ( parrot), and Hansavali border (swan).

12. Ashavali Saree

13. Ashavali Saree
Colours:
Gold
Yellow
Green
Deep maroon
Royal PINK
Red

14. Thank You