2. To find out following useful specification of a woven
fabric its analysis is carried out:
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(9)
(10)
Nature of fabric
State of fabric
Width of fabric
}Cloth Sett
}Fabric Count
Ends per inch
Picks per inch
Warp Count
Weft Count
Warp & Weft Crimp
Weight of fabric per unit area
Weave Design & its Elements
Purpose of Fabric Analysis
3. Ends per inch Picksper inch
72
40
Warp Count
x
x
96
36
x 60″
Fabric Width
Weft Count
Woven Fabric Specifications
4. 40 x 40 110 x 80 113"
( Warp Count ) ( Weft Count ) ( Ends per Inch ) ( Picks per Inch ) ( Cloth Width )
Warp Count Weft Count
40 x 40
___________ x 113"
110 x 80
Ends per Inch Picks per Inch
Cloth Width
5. 110 x 80 40 x 40 113"
( Ends per Inch ) ( Picks per Inch ) ( Warp Count ) ( Weft Count ) ( Cloth Width )
6. The nature of the fabric can be found out by:
Microscopic Examination Solubility Tests Burning Tests
(1) Determining Nature of Fabric
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
7. The state of the fabric can be determined by:
Observing & feeling the fabric
In case of special finishes the fabric sample is also
treated with certain chemicals to find out the type of
finish applied to the fabric.
(2) Determining State of Fabric
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
8. The width of the fabric is simply found by measuring it
with a measuring tape.
The width of the fabric can only be found when the
fabric sample is in the complete roll form.
(3) Finding out width of the fabric
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
9. The next step in fabric analysis is to find out that which is the
face or top side of the fabric and which is the bottom or back
side. This is done by:
Lustrous side of the fabric is considered as face.
If luster is same on both sides then
the design is more clearly visible is
the side from
taken as face.
which
If both lustre & clarity of design is same on both sides
then any side can be taken as the face.
(4) Determining face of the fabric
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
10. (i) If selvedges are present in the sample then threads parallel to selvedges
are taken as warp and threads perpendicular to selvedges are taken as weft.
Selvedge
Warp
Threads
Weft Threads
(5) Identifying Warp & Weft Threads
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
11. (ii) If selvedge is not present then size is considered. In loom
state warp threads are sized and are rough to feel.
(iii) If the fabric is not in loom state then crimp is considered.
Weft threads generally have more crimp as compared to
warp threads.
(iv) If both threads have same crimp then thread density is
considered. Ends per inch is generally more than picks per
inch. So threads with greater density are taken as warp.
(5) Identifying Warp & Weft Threads
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
12. (v) If thread density is also same in both directions then count
of threads is considered. Weft threads are generally coarser.
So coarser threads are taken as weft.
(vi) If the count of both threads is also same then direction of
twist is considered. Most commonly warp threads are ‘Z’
twisted and weft threads are ‘S’ twisted.
(vii) If twist direction is also same in both directions then fold is
considered. Warp threads can be folded while weft threads are
invariably used as singles.
(5) Identifying Warp & Weft Threads
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
13. (viii) If thread used in both directions are single then threads of
either direction can be taken as warp or weft. However after
finding out the weave design of the fabric sample, based on
more feasible option, the warp and the weft threads can be
decided.
(5) Identifying Warp & Weft Threads
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
14. After identifying the warp and weft, the fabric sample is placed
on the table with weft threads parallel to x-axis and warp threads
parallel to y-axis. As shown below:
Warp
Threads
Weft Threads
(6) Placement of Fabric Sample
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
16. The count of threads can be determined by:
(1) Fraying No. of threads of known straightened length (2) Weighing these frayed off threads
(8) Determining warp and weft thread count
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
17. The count is then calculated using the formula:
Total Length of Threads
Nc =
Total weight of Threads x 840
Where length is in yards and weight is in pounds
Alternately following formula can also be used:
Total Length of Threads
Nc = x 8.33
Total weight of Threads
In this case length is in yards while weight is in grains
(8) Determining warp and weft thread count
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
18. To measure crimp:
(1) Length of the thread in fabric
sample is noted (LF)
(2) Then same length of thread is frayed
and its straightened length is found (LO)
(9) Calculating Warp & Weft Crimp
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
19. Crimp is then calculated by using the following formula:
x 100
% Crimp =
LF
Where (LF) is length of yarn in the fabric
length of yarn outside the fabric
and (LO) is the straightened
Crimp using the above procedure
both warp and weft directions.
can be found out for
(9) Calculating Warp & Weft Crimp
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
Lo - LF
20. The weight of the fabric per unit area is most commonly
expressed either in ounces per square yard or grams per
square metre (GSM).
The weight of the fabric per unit area can be found out
by adding individual weights of warp and weft threads
within a unit area.
To calculate weight in ounces per square yard, individual
weights of warp and weft threads in ounces in an area of one
square yard fabric is calculated.
(10) Calculating Fabric Weight Per Unit Area
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
21. The individual weights of warp and weft threads are then
added to get weight
Mathematically:
of fabric in ounces per square yard.
ends per yard x (1+warp crimp)
x 16
Weight of Warp (ozs) =
840 x warp count
picks per yard x (1+weft crimp)
x 16
Weight of Weft (ozs) =
840 x weft count
(10) Calculating Fabric Weight Per Unit Area
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
22. Similarly in order to find GSM by the above mentioned
method, following mathematical relations are used:
ends / metre x (1+warp crimp)
x warp count (tex)
Weight of Warp (gms) =
1000
picks / metre x (1+weft crimp)
x weft count (tex)
Weight of Weft (gms) =
1000
By adding individual weights of warp and weft in grams
within a sample of one square metre, GSM is obtained.
(10) Calculating Fabric Weight Per Unit Area
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
23. Alternately the GSM of the Fabric can also be found out as:
(1) By cutting a fabric of 5cm diameter
using a special cutting die
(2) GSM of the sample is then found out by
multiplying its weight in grams by 100
(10) Calculating Fabric Weight Per Unit Area
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
24. To find out the weave design of a given fabric sample each
end is taken one by one and its order of interlacement with the
weft is noted on a design paper.
Where the warp is over the weft, it is represented by a cross
or shaded area on the design paper and where it is
weft it is shown by an empty box.
under the
The process is continued until a repeat of design isobtained
Once a weave design is made, its elements i.e. the
draft, lifting order and reed plan can be made.
drawing in
(11) Finding Weave Design & Its Elements
Procedure of Fabric Analysis
25. (1) Condition the fabric for 2 to 4 hours when fabric sample is taken off the
cloth roll.
If Selvedges are present in the sample then avoid taking thread density
measurements within 3 to 4 inches of the selvedge.
Excessive Stretching of the fabric should be avoided.
(2)
(3)
Precautions During Fabric Analysis
26. (4) If fabric sample has sufficient size, take about 5 readings of cloth
sett and mean value should be considered. The best way of taking
measurements at different positions is shown below:
Precautions During Fabric Analysis
27. (5) To fray off the threads from the sample, do not pull with hand.
Instead use common pins to first displace the threads and then
fray the thread off the sample.
Precautions During Fabric Analysis
28. (6) If the thread density in warp or weft direction comes
out to be less than 20 then thread density must be
counted in 2 or 3 inches and mean threads per inch
should be found out.
(7) While finding the crimp of the yarn do not stretch the
threads by great amount. Threads should only be
stretched by an amount
remove visible crimp of
that is sufficient enough to
the thread.
(8) Take at least 3 readings of crimp for both directions
and then find out the mean value for each direction.
Precautions During Fabric Analysis
