cosmeceuticals

1. Addressing to Pigmentation, Prickly
heat and Wrinkles

2. Contents:
• Pigmentation
• Wrinkles
• Prickly heat
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3. PIGMENTATION
• Pigmentation disorders are disturbance of human skin color,either loss or
reduction, which may be related to loss of melanocytes or the inability of
melanocytes to produce melanin or transport melanosomes correctly.
• Pigmentation is the colouring of an individual’s skin. The colour of skin
appears normal when a person is healthy.
• A person’s skin may change colour and grow darker ( hyperpigmentation)
or lighter ( hypopigmentation) because of illness and injury.
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4. PIGMENTATION DISORDERS
1.Hyperpigmentation
It is the darkening of an area of skin or nails caused by increased melanin. Exposure to
sunlight is major caused of hyperpigmentation.
2.Hypopigmentation
It is the loss of skin colour which is caused by melanin depletion.
3.Vitiligo
It is an autoimmune disease in which there is an appearance of smooth white particles on the
skin occur all over the body.
4.Albinism
It is a rare inherited disorder which is caused by the absence of an enzyme that produces
melanin.
Pigmentation is completely lost as a result in eyes, skin and hair.
5.De-pigmentation
It is the lightening of the skin or loss of pigments.
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5. Causes
• Sun Damage
• Inflammation
• Skin Injuries
• Excess exoposure to sunlight
• Skin injuries related to acne vulgaris
• Excess production of melanin
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6. Treatment
Cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation
Tyrosinase
inhibition
competiti
ve
Non
plant
extract
Hydroqu
inone,
mequino
l,NAC
Plant
extracts
Azelaic
acid,
arbutin,aloe
sin,
saponin,
flavonoids
Non-
competiti
ve
Non-plant
extracts
Haginin-A,
N-
acetylgluc
osamin
Plant
extracts
Glabridin,
hyroxystillben
e, mulberry,
polyphenol
Inhibition of
melanin
transfer
Plant
extract
Niacinami
de, soy
Reduce
tyrosine
oxidatio
n
Plant
extract
P-
coumaric
acid
Copper
operation,
antioxidant
and
inhibition of
melanocyte
proliferation
Plant
extract
Ascorbic
acid,
ellagic
acid
Alpha-
hydroxy
acids,
retinoids
Plant
extract
Liquorice
extract
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7. Other treatment
1. Bleaching agents
2. Chemical Peels
3. Intense Pulsed light
4. Microdermabasion
5. Physician formulas
6. Laser resurfacing
7. Home remedies/ natural treatment
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8. A) Hydroquinone(HQ)
Hydroquinone is the most popular depigmenting agent. It is used in various
industries including photographic, rubber and chemical industries.
Mechanism of action:
HQ acts as a depigment agent through inhibiting tyrosinase enzyme, which
reduces the conversion of DOPA to melanin. The oxidation products are
quinones and reactive oxygen species (ROS) and these products lead to an
oxidative damage of membrane lipids and proteins, including tyrosinase and
depletion of glutathione which contributes to the lightening action.
Other mechanisms of action of HQ are:
1. Covalent binding to histidine or interaction with coppers at the site of
tyrosinase.
2. Inhibition of DNA and RNA synthesis.
3. Alteration of melanosone formation and melanization extent.
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9. • B)Azelaic acid
• Azelaic acid is a naturally occuring non-phenolic, satuated, nine carbon
dicarboxilic acid. Its use originated from finding that Pityrosporum species
can oxidize unsaturated fatty acids to dicarboxylic acids, which
competitively inhibit tyrosinase.
• Azelaic acid was initially developed as a topical drug with therapeutics
effects for the treatment of acne.
• But it has effect on tyrosinase, it has also been used to treat melasma,
lentigo maligna and other disorders of hyperpigmentation.
It acts by inhibiting DNA synthesis and mitochondrial enzymes, there by
inducing direct cytotoxic effects toward the melanocytes.
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10. C) Arbutin and its derivatives
Arbutin is a natural form of HQ.It is extracted from a bearberry plant in the
genus Arctostaphylos and contained in leaves of pear trees and certain
herbs.In in vitro studies, arbutin inhibits melanin production in B16 cells
and decreases melanosomal tyrosinase activity.
D) Kojic Acid and its derivatives
• Kojic acid is an antibiotic produced by many species of Aspergillus and
Penicillum in an aerobic process from a wide range of carbon sources.It
was first isolated from Aspergillus in 1907. It is readily available OTC at
up to 1% concebtration.
• To increase its efficacy, it is usually used at the highest concentration
allowed.
• Kojic acid inhibits tyrosinase enzymes, mainly attributable to chelation of its
copper.
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11. Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is an alpha- hydroxy acid that is usually combined with other
agents at a concentration of 5-10% for its skin lightening property.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide ( nicotinamide), the biologically active form of niacin( vitamin
B3),can reduce pigmentation by reversibly the transfer of melanosomes
from melanocytes to the keratinocytes.
Liquorice extracts:
Liquorice or licorice is the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra from which a somewhat
sweet flavor can be extracted. The main component of the hydrophobic
fraction of liquorice extract is glabridin, which has an effect on the
skin.Glabiridin inhibits tyrosinase activity of melanocytes.
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12. Formulation of Hypopigmentation cream
Ingredients : Uses
Paraffin oil and coconut oil As an oily base
Cetomacrogol 1000 As a surfactants
Cetostearyl alcohol As a surfactants
Glycerin Humectant
Lemon oil Perfume
Distilled water As a aqueous phase
Extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra Active ingredient
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13. Procedure for formulation
• Preparation of base
• Water in oil(w/o) cream was prepared by the addition of aqueous phase to the
oily phase with continous agitation.
• To prepare base: oily phase that consisted of paraffin oil,beeswax, coconut oil
and surfactaants (Cetomacrogol 1000 and cetosteatyl alcohol) is heated upto
75C.
• Aqueous phase consisting of glycerin and water is heated to the same
temperature.
• Preparation of formulation
• The formulation was also prepared by same method; the only difference is
the addition of Glycyrrhiza glabra extract that is added in aqueous phase
consisting of glycerin and water.
• Each formulstion consists of preservatives as propyl paraben 0.02%w/w and
methyl paraben 0.1% to 100g.
• The formulations were neutralized by Triethanolamine to pH=5.5 at 25c.
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14. Marketed preparations:
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15. Wrinkles
• Wrinkles are the lines and creases that form in your skin.
• A wrinkles, also known as rhytide, is a fold, ridge or crease in
the skin.
• Skin wrinkles typically appear as a result of aging processes
such as glycation, habitual sleeping positions,loss of body mass,
or as a result of prolonged immersion in water.
• It is specially noticeable around your eyes, mouth and neck.
Some wrinkles can become deep crevices or furrows.
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16. Causes
• Age: As you get older, your skin naturally becomes less elastic and more
fragile.Decreases production of natural oils dries your skin and makes it appear
more wrinkled.
• Fat in the deeper layers of your skin diminishes. This causes loose,saggy skin and
more pronounced lines and crevices.
• Exposure to ultraviolet(UV) light: Ultraviolet radiation which speeds the natural
aging process, is the primary cause of early wrinkling.
• Exposure to UV light breaks down your skin’s connective tissue-collagen and
elastin fibers,which lie in the deeper layer of skin(dermis) and results in skin loses
strength and flexibility.
• Skin then begins to sag and wrinkle prematurely
• Smoking: smoking can accelerate the normal aging process of your skin,
contributing to wrinkles. This may be due to changes in the blood supply to your
skin.
• Repeated facial expression: Facial movements and expressions such as squinting
or smiling lead to fines lines and wrinkles.
• Poor hydration: is also one of the causes of wrinkles.
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17. Treatment of wrinkles:
• 1.The fillers
• The filler is a biological or syntactical mean to inject in hypoderm or in derma tissue,
so to implement or enhance a limited area of body(usually face) for aesthetic
purpose.
• 2.Peelings
• Peeling is a medical treatment consisting in a micro-abrasion of epidermis or the
superfacial and medium derma, by means of chemical or physical agents.
• The peels used in these treatments are pyruvic acid, salicylic acid, retinoic acid,
tricloroacetic acid(T.C.A) at 10%-20%.
• 3.Botulinum toxin
• Botulinum toxin injection for treatment of facial wrinkles is one of the most
common entry procedure for clinicians seeking to incorporate aesthetic treatments
into their practice.
• It is a potent neurotoxin that inhibits release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular
junction.
• 4.Lasers
• They are indicated for treatments of aesthetic lesions, for resurfacing, for non-
ablative rejuventing and for hair removal.The used lasers are the CO2 lasers.
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18. Other treatments- Dermabrasion, surgery, ultrasound therapy.
Topical retinoids: Derived from vitamin A, retinoids- such as tretinoin (
Renova, Retin A) and tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac)- that you apply to your
skin may reduce fine wrinkles, splotches and skin roughness.
Because retinoids can make your skin burn more easily , you will need to use a
broad spectrum sunscreen and wear protective clothing daily.
Retinoids may cause redness, dryness, itching, and a burning or tingling
sensation.
Nonprescription wrinkle creams:
The effectiveness of antiwrinkle creams depends in part on the active
ingredients. Retinol, antioxidants and some peptides may result in slight to
modest improvements in wrinkles.
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19. Formulation of anti-wrinkle cream
Ingredients Quantity Uses
Extracted seed oil of
Moringa oleifera
2% Active ingredient
Stearic acid 10% Emulsifier
Cetyl alcohol 6% Thickening agent, emulsifier
Liquid paraffin 6.6% Skin lubricant, emollient
Glycerol 3% Retain Moisture
Methyl paraben 0.02% Preservative
Propylene glycol 30% Humectant
Water 100% Aqueous phase
After heating , the aqueous phase was added in portions to the oil phase with continous stirring until cooling of emulsifier took
place.
Preservatives and other water soluble components ( Methyl paraben, glycerol, propylene glycol, ethanol extract of moringa
oleifera seeds were dissolved in the aqueous phase (part B) and heated to 75c
Emulsifier ( stearic acid) and other oil soluble components ( cetyl alcohol, liquid paraffin) were dissolved in the oil phase ( part
A) and heated to 75c
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20. Prickly heat
• It is also known as Miliaria and Heat rash.
• A heat rash occurs when sweat ducts become clogged and the sweat can’t get
to the surface of the skin.Instead, it becomes trapped beneath the skin surface
causing a mild inflammation of rash.
• The common symptoms of heat rash are red bumps on the skin, and an itchy
or prickly feeling to the skin.
• Types of heat rashes:
• 1.clear
• 2.Red
• 3.White/yellow
• 4.Deep
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21. Causes
• Sweat gland ducts can get blocked if excessive sweatings occurs.
• Creases in the skin which makes it difficult for air to circulate,
preventing sweat evaporation.
• Tight clothing also prevents sweat evaporation.
• Heavy creams or lotions can clog sweat ducts.
• It may also causes as a side effect of some medications.
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22. Treatment
• For treating prickly heat conditions, there are various formulations are
available in the market in the form of-Creams, powders and lotions.
• One of the best treatments without side effects is to apply calamine
lotion on the prickly heat rashes.It helps in soothing the skin. It reduces
the skin irritation, inflammation as well as skin redness.
• The cooling effect offered by calamine lotion also reduces sweating in
the area, helping in controlling the rashes quickly.
• Candid powder is the other common topical treatment used to get rid
of skin problems like prickly itch quickly.
• This powder helps in controlling the redness and itchy sensation on the
skin and also prevents secondary infection.
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23. •Anhydrous lanolin, which may help to prevent duct blockage and stop new lesions
from forming.
•Topical steroids- for example- Hydrocortisone cream are also applied but in low
concentration to avoid side effects.
•Antihistamine tablets are also given as per severity of conditions.
•Aloe vera gel preparations are applied for getting cooling sensation.
•Oat bath soaks
•Oats contain an active plant extract which soothes irritation and inflammation,
making them an ideal remedy for itchy , red skin.
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24. Fig.: Some example of Marketed Available Preparation
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25. REFERENCE
• Internet source
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26. THANK YOU
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