1. Vietnam's long history has been marked by the influences of many different cultures. From 1865 until 1954, except for Japan's World War II occupation, France controlled Vietnam. It was admittedly not the happiest period in the country's history, but many positive cultural influences were left behind by the French, two of those being music and architecture. Although jazz was invented by Americans, the French eagerly embraced it and brought it to Indochina with them. Along with the architectural style of the 20s, jazz helped to define the ambience of many supper clubs and restaurants during that period. At the Central Plaza Hotel, that feeling has been brought back to life at Le Danang, their Vietnamese dining spot. The dark woodwork, light green patterned wallpaper and darklyupholstered leather chairs combine with the heavy carpeting and subdued lighting to produce an effect that initially brought to mind a 20s Manhattan supper club or a Saigon jazz club of the same era. According to press information, the hotel aimed at the latter so the result was obviously intended. Once you step inside, the absence of windows and any exterior lighting helps to create the illusion of stepping back in time. Although the decor is a step back in time, the cuisine is as modern and yet authentic as you're likely to find anywhere. And with over 60 items to choose from, the variety offered is great enough to satisfy anyone. Our own meal consisted of eight different dishes made up of appetizers, soup and main courses. It was enough to get a good idea of the range of dishes and was more than enough for three appetites. Three appetizers started the meal and covered some basics of Vietnamese cuisine. Spring rolls are familiar to everyone, but the charcoal grilled, pounded prawns on little sugar cane stalks probably aren't and both were flavorful and fresh tasting. The nem nuong, charcoal grilled pork balls with vegetables and rice noodles that made up the rest of the course were delicious and reminiscent of Thai fish balls. The next dish, canh chua, was a soup containing prawns, red snapper fillet and pineapple among other ingredients and again reminded one of its Thai cousin, tom yamgoong. Like it, the canh chua has an extremely tasty broth to go with a little heat and fresh seafood. What proved to be the favorite dish of the day arrived next, the , first of the main courses, cua rang muoi, which is sauteed sea crab with butter and spices. The crabs turned out to be soft-shelled and very tender, the best examples yet of these delicacies that we've encountered in Bangkok. Three more entrees rounded out the meal: suon nuong, charcoal grilled pork spare ribs; "
Le Danang"
com chien, fried rice with chicken, prawns and Chinese sa usage and ca chien nghe, pan-fried fish in turmeric. All were delicious and and spicy, though balanced well by other flavors. The combination of influences present at Le Danang -- American jazz, French architecture and Vietnamese food -- provide a rich experience that gives some insight into that part of Saigon's life some 70 years ago. Le Danang, Central Plaza Hotel, 541-1234.