1. 55
French steak and quiche,
Bavarian chicken and, yes,
Swabians: Neukölln’s gentri-
fication is rapidly reaching its
logical culinary conclusion.
But hey, at least it’s tasty. We
took a bite out of the neigh-
bourhood’s latest offerings.
Schwabylon
You’ve heard about Prenzlauer Berg’s Swa-
bian invasion, but what’s this? Spätzle on the
streets of Neukölln? Yep, the Schwabocalypse
is spreading – in the form of Dominik Ei-
sele’s hot-off-the-press homage to Schwaben’s
carbtastic export. Eisele moved to Berlin from
Baden-Württemberg in 2007, and in March
began serving his region’s signature homemade
noodles from this snug spot on Pannierstraße.
The menu’s limited (literally four meat/cheese/
lentil variations) but wallet-friendly at €5-6 for
most dishes. While you’re waiting, check out the
screens buzzing with clips compiled by Eisele
(he used to be a TV editor) and push-button
gadgets he made himself. Oh, and fancy more
Spätzle with your Spätzle? The sugar, cinnamon
and applesauce “ZZ-top” is a hit with sweet-
toothed diners. HB Pannierstr. 9, Tue-Sat 12-22
Schwammerl
Berlin has a lot of pseudo-Bavarian restaurants,
but Schwammerl is an actual, authentic Bavarian
gem in the middle of Weichselstraße. Not that
cook Fabian Zweimüller (who opened the place
last October with Julius Fichtel) doesn’t give
the traditional dishes a modern twist. Don’t
hesitate to try the incredibly tender Backhendl
(baked rooster, €8.50), served with both potato
salad – made with vinegar, not mayonnaise, as
homesick Bavarians will be happy to know – and
delicious lemon crème. And the Kaiserschmarn
(ripped apart pancake, €6.50) comes not only
with caramelised apple slices but white choco-
late. Vegetarian? The Kässpätzle (button noodles
baked with cheese, €8.50) might just make you
forget you’re still in Berlin... until you learn that
the owners’ next move is a food truck. JH
Weichselstr. 55, daily from 18
Filetstück Pigalle
When Filetstück, a fancy steakhouse chain
with branches in Prenzl’Berg and Wilmersdorf,
opened its third location in a former bordello
on Sanderstraße, it was met by spray-paint tags
and angry price queries. But that doesn’t mean
it doesn’t have a place here. A red neon sign
decorating one wall pays homage to the building’s
history, and like its sister restaurants, it works
with its surroundings. Taking advantage of the
outdoor seating, the menu features lighter dishes
ideal for al fresco dining. Instead of the indulgent
seven-course meal made popular in Wilmersdorf,
diners can enjoy plates of tender Rindergeschnet-
zeltes (€17.50, which includes a soft drink, coffee
and salad) with a roadside beer. The ethos of
quality products isn’t sacrificed however; every
cut of meat (bar one from Ireland), is sourced
from German butchers and dry-aged for at least
28 days. RL Sanderstr. 17, Mon-Sat 12-22:30
Bichou
Ready thy smartphone camera: the blue-tiled
café/bistro behind the Rathaus is destined to be-
come Neukölln’s next Instagram darling. Photo-
genic French-German couple Marion Coulondre
and Thomas Giese offer a small weekly rotating
menu of reasonably priced quiches, soups, salads
and mains like poached salmon or braised pork
with lentils (quiche lorraine and tarte tatin are
the only constants) to be savoured in-house
over coffee or taken away in eco- and Pinterest-
friendly glass jars for a €1 deposit. Our veggie
quiche (with beetroot and feta, €3.20/€5.20
with salad) was light as air, with a flaky, buttery
crust, and we could imagine it serving as the
perfect consolation prize if you didn’t get that
Bürgeramt appointment. JS Schönstedtstr. 14,
Mon-Fri 11-19:30
B E R L I N ’S M O N T H LY N E W S PA P E R — R E A D, E AT A N D D R I N K
PressEss Pss
W W W. H I L K E R - B E R L I N . D E ONLY
€2
Four new Prenzlauer Berg
restaurants... in Neukölln
Bichou
54-55 Food 149.indd 55 25/04/2016 17:51