Silk Mark Authorised Users and salesmen are given training about Natural Silk, Silk Mark and other aspects for purchase and sale of pure silk materials
3. 3
Natural Fibres
Mulberry Silk (Rs.3800/- per kg.),
Cotton (Rs.700/- per kg.),
Wool (Rs.1000/- per kg
Regenerated Fibres
Viscose Rayon
(Rs. 400/- per kg.)
Man Made Fibres
Polyester (Rs. 300/- per kg.)
Nylon (Rs. 350/- per kg.)
Acrylic (Rs. 600/- per kg.), etc
4. Membership Profile
•Rampant use of artificial fiber for duping
consumers in the guise of silk
• MoT introduced Silk Mark Scheme being
implemented by CSB.
4
Genesis of Silk Mark
5. Membership Profile
Silk Mark launch by then Hon. Union Minister for Textiles
Shri. Shankarsinh Vaghela.
5
Genesis of Silk MarkGenesis of Silk Mark
6. Silk Mark - Mandate
•To protect the interest of the consumers
•Generic promotion of silk and provide
value addition to the stakeholders
•Promote ‘Indian Silk’ as a brand
6
Silk Mark - Mandate
8. Membership Profile
Committee of Administration is the
governing body for SMOI and has its own
bye-laws and Memorandum of Association (MoA)
Permanent Members 6
Nominated Members 5
Elected Members 5
No. of CoA meetings 23
No. of AGMs 14
8
Constitution of Committee
of Administration(CoA)
11. • Authorised User registration
• Sale of Labels
• Salesperson training
• Surveillance
• Silk Mark Expos
• Publicity
11
• Awareness Programmes /
Road shows
• Silk Testing centres for
consumers
• Resham Ghar- Home of Pure
Indian Silk
• Silk Mark Vogue
A Quarterly Newsmagazine
• Srimathi Silk Mark
Silk Mark Activities
12. • 4000 Authorised Users
• >3.25 cr. Silk Mark Labels
• 5100 Awareness Programmes/Road shows
• 20000 Salesperson trained
• 130 Silk Mark Expos conducted &
300 cr worth business generated for Silk Mark
AUs
• Testing centres for consumers
• Two Resham Ghar at New Delhi & Bangalore
12
Silk Mark at a Glance
14. 14
In house Surveillance by officials
• Minimum two surveillance visits by the
respective chapter
• 2% samples of Silk Mark labelled products
to be tested for purity of silk
• Verification of Silk Mark label registers
Third party Surveillance
• By third parties like Textile committee,
Textile Association of India, BTRA, SASMIRA etc.
14
Surveillance Mechanism
18. 18
Application for Membership / AU
Executive Visit to the Applicant’s premises
Enrollment of Members/AU and Agreement
Training of AU
Issue of Silk Mark Label to the AU
AU Maintains Label account
Consumers get products with the Silk Mark
Surveillance by SMOI Executives
Third party independent Agency surveillance
How Silk Mark System works
19. 19
Sl. No. Category Fee (₹)
1. Membership Fee 5,000/-
2. Membership Fee for Weaver
Members (<5 looms)
500/-
19
Fee Structure - Membership (one time)
20. 20
Sl. No. Category on turn over Fee (₹)
1. Members 5,000/-
2. For Societies 1,500/-
3. For Weavers class 500/-
20
Fee Structure (for 5years) - AU
23. An overview of Indian Silk Industry
Continuous protein filament
Main protein – Fibroin(core) and Sericin (gum)
Silk 3% of textile trade
India contributes 10% of the world trade
More than 30 countries produce silk
23
Features of Indian Silk Industry
24. Silk
Mulberry
Tassar
Eri
Muga
24
Features of Indian Silk Industry
Rayon(viscose)
Nylon, Polyester etc.
Artificial SilkNatural Silk
25. 25
• Domestic demand – 38,000 MT
• Production – 35,000 MT
• Sericulture villages – 55255
• Sericulture families – 957948
• Cultivation area – 2,24,000 ha
Indian Silk Industry
• Silk Handlooms – 4.00 lakhs;
• Powerlooms – 75,000
• Reeling units - 5000
• Employment – more than 8.50 million
and 70% women
26. 26
• 26 states involved in silk and sericulture activities
• Highly fragmented and unorganised
• Complementary and conflicting
Indian Silk Industry
27. 27
Silk Handloom Clusters -
Varanasi, Kancheepuram, Dharmavaram, Sualkuchi, Bhagalpur,
Yeola-Paithan, Pochampalli, Sonpur, Bangalore, Jammu and Kashmir
Balucheri, Murshidabad, Uppada, Kumbakonam, Arni, Salem,
Gadag-Batgeri, Champa, Raigarh,Narayanpet, Moolkalmoor etc.
Silk Production – 2018-19 -35,261 MT
2017-18 --- 31,907 MT – 10%
increase
Mulberry – 25,213 MT Tassar - 2,977 MT
Eri – 6,839 MT Muga - 232 MT
Indian Silk Industry
28. 28
• Exports of silk and silk products from India reached US$ 291.36
million in 2018-19 (2031. 88 Crore Rs)
• previous year US$ 255.93 million
• The silk products exported include natural silk yarns, fabrics, made-
ups, readymade garments, silk carpets and silk waste.
• Fabric and made-ups of silk formed the largest share in exports
followed by Readymade garments
• A considerable quantity of Exports and earning noticed in the export
of carpets.
• Similarly, import of silk & products made an expenditure of US$
222..49 million 2018-19 (1497.46 crore Rs) and noticed a
downward trend when compared with previous year
• The main component of silk imported material is raw silk (2785 Mt-
value- US$ 148.38 million)
Indian Silk Exports
29. 29
• Imports 3712 MT of raw silk 3100 MT
of finished products mainly from China
• India Second largest producer
• Largest consumer
• Biggest Importer
• One of the biggest converter
Indian Silk Industry
31. •The contrivances used are unique for conversion of raw silk -
Charkha, Cottage basin, Multi end, Automatic reeling,
Motorised spinning machine, Natwa, Bhir, Takali, Mill spinning,
etc.
• A wide variety of raw materials being produced.
• Transforming social dimensions.
• Products from unique cluster with different surface effects.
31
How is it unique?
32. • Indian production, process and conversion is unique
• Intricate web of market channels
• Organised markets in traditional states.
Non traditional states have still difficulties in marketing
• Around 5000 reeling units in the country
32
Marketing & Trading -
Mulberry
33. • In Non mulberry sector marketing is unorganized
• Differ from state to state
• In Tasar generally operated by Mahajans/traders in weekly Haats
• Cocoon rates are fixed per ‘Kahan’ local unit
• 1 kahan – 1400-1600 cocoons in Bihar/Jharkhand, Odisha,
Chhattisgarh & MP
• RMB set up by CSB helps producer to ensure fair price
33
Marketing & Trading - Tassar
34. 34
• In North Eastern India, Eri rearing conducted mostly for
consumption of pupae
• Eri cocoons are sold at the doorstep of rearers at throw-away
price
• Lack of knowledge about its market potential
• ERMB set up by CSB helps rearers to get fair price
• Fair price per kg is obtained by multiplying SR with a
constant 3.846 irrespective of number of cocoons/kg
Marketing & Trading - Eri
35. 35
Different Yarns Used in India
Reeled Mulberry/Raw Silk
predominantly used for sarees.
Dupion Yarn - due to its uneven nature
mainly used for furnishing, cushion covers,
good export market
Matka - widely used combination
with other yarns like Noil, for
furnishings and dress materials.
36. 36
Different Yarns Used in India
Feshua / Jatam
mainly for furnishing materials.
Noil - hairy, uneven. Finer count is used for
dress materials and coarser yarn are used for
furnishings in combination with matka
or other spun silk yarn.
Spun Silk Yarn:
mainly for suitings materials.
37. 37
Different Yarns Used in India
Reeled Tasar/Tasar Raw Silk -
sarees, dress material & garments
Ghicha - dress material, furnishing
Jhuri - mainly used in combination with other
finer spun yarn for furnishing materials
38. 38
Different Yarns Used in India
Muga Silk - Product range includes Mekhla
Chader, Riha Sarees, Blouse piece, plain fabrics, etc.
Eri Silk - Due to soft and warm properties,
it has immense potential for commercial use
49. Magic of Indian Silks
Silks of India
The variety and diversity in these clusters have
resulted because of weaving styles, patterns of
design, accessories and equipment used, technology
employed, skill levels, preference for designs and
motifs, colour combinations, etc.
49
51. 51
Kanchivaram-The Temple Silks of the South
A Kanchipuram Sari is a type of
sari traditionally made by
weavers from Kanchipuram
located in Tamil Nadu and these
sarees are distinguished by its
wide contrast borders.
Woven with heavy silk and
gold zari
To weave Kanchipuram sari
three shuttles are used. The
border colour and design are
usually quite different from the
body. If the pallu has to be
woven in a different shade, it is
first separately woven and then
delicately joined to the sari.
52. The Brocades of Banaras
• Woven out of fine silk, which
bears elaborative golden
embroidery either along the
border or all over the saree.
• These sarees are quite heavy,
due to entire body is Satin
based weave & extra weft
designs.
• And are donned by Indian
women only during special
occasions like wedding, parties
and festivities.
52
53. The Patolas of Gujarat
• Patola silks the pride of
Gujarat are known for
their bright colours and
geometric designs with
folk. Known for their
precision subtly and
beauty.
• Both warp and weft are
dyed by dye – resist
method in a range of five
or six traditional colours.
• These are double ikat
and weft is inserted by
hand in red, indigo, blue,
emerald green, black or
yellow.
53
54. 54
Patola
• Patola sarees generally have
the basic design motifs like
animals, flowers, human
figures and birds. Some
geometrical designs have
attracted the weavers that
has gained momentum from
the age old traditional Muslim
architectural designs.
• The typical features of the
fabric is the brocade like
heavy texture. The pallus or
anchals are elaborate and
the dazzling borders are
adorned with warm colors
and rich motifs.
55. 55
Dharmavaram (AP)
•Famous for broad solid coloured
boarders with contrast pallu woven
with brocaded gold patterns.
•Simpler patters for everyday use
have the specialty of being woven in
two colours which give an effect of
muted double shades accentuated
by solid colour border and pallu.
56. Mysore Silk
Are mulberry silk crepe sarees
exclusively woven on power
looms, with pure zari (65% Silver
& 0.65% gold].
Highly twisted mulberry silk yarns
to impart crinkle effect to achieve
better draping quality
56
57. 57
Baluchuri (WB)
Mainly distinguished for their
elaborate borders and fabulous
pallus, mostly depict the
mythological stories similar to
that commonly found on the
temples of Bishnupur and
Bankura of West Bengal. The
borders are ornamental and
surround Kalka motifs within it.
A series of figurers is designed
in rows and motifs, which are
woven diagonally. Mostly the
motif designs are in the four
alternative colours on a shaded
background. The most popular
colours of Baluchuri saree
designs include red,
green,white blue and yellow
59. 59
Pochampally Sarees (TL)
• Are made from ‘tie & dye’
yarns to provide single or
double ikat effect with an
aura of colour around each
motif due to difference of
millimeters in setting the
design during hand weaving
of fabric.
• Dyeing warp and weft yarn
groups is undertaken after
tying them by rubber bands
as many number of times as
the number of colors for a
given design.
60. 60
Paithani Sarees (MH)
• Maharastra is famous for
its Paithani Silk Sarees,
generally with gold dots
designs and Kosa silk of
Bhandara district.
• Paithani Saree is woven
entirely on handlooms,
disdaining to use even the
jacquard or Jala.
• Its dhoop –chaav (light
and shade) effect is
achieved by bringing two
different coloured silk
threads together in the
process of simple tabby
weave.
61. 61
The Ikats of Odisha
• The tie and dye weaves of
Odisha known as Ikkats,
employ the yarn resist
method for both warp and
weft with diffused effect.
• In ikat method the yarn is
subjected to tying in the
sequence and dyeing the
required areas with the
required colour. By this
method, the dye soaks
into the exposed portions
and the tied portioned are
left from the dyeing effect.
Designs are curvilinear in
nature which is the
uniqueness of orissa ikat.
62. 62
Chanderi and Maheshwari (MP)
• Chanderi Sarees are
known for transparency,
translucency because of
kora silk in warp and
weft, usually Ashraffy
butti.
• Famous traditional
designs are:
• Hazar buti Asraffe saree.
• Jangla Design Saree.
• Addedar Saree.
• Ugata Suraj Saree.
• Mehandirachi Hath saree
63. 63
Chinons from Kashmir (J&K)
Kashmir is famous for Printed & Embroidered
Chinons, Chiffons, Crepes and Tabby Silks.
Apart from International famous silk Carpets.
Kashmir’s Kashida (Embroidery) is one
of the Most famous styles of
Decorated needlework from the Indian
sub-continent.
64. 64
Tasar Silk at Bhagalapur (B) and
Champa(CG) clusters
• The major product mix
being produced in
Bhagalpur include Silk
Dress material, Saree
Salwar Suits, Dupatta,
Bed Sheets Scarves
runners etc.
• The Tasar silk sarees
and furnishing materials
produced in Bhagalpur
are popular both in the
domestic as well as
international market.
66. Queen Dress –
Silk Dupion
with traditional
Lambani art like
hand stitches and
mirror work
Silk Denim – Eri silk
denim dress. The
machine eri yarn used
during fabric
manufacturing
66
67. Muga
Spun Muga silk party wear Muga
Muga spun silk fabric
with embroidery and
mulberry silk
for appliqué work
67
68. Dupatta – with Mulberry Kora in
warp and tasar spun in weft
Eri party wear Dress
2/120 s Eri yarn.
68
69. 69
Silk knits with Ahimsa (Eri) Silk
Eri lighter fabric – 2/210s
Eri yarn used for
development of apparel
69